INSTRUCTIONS FOR DRAPING WITH STRETCH KNITS

PREPARATION TO DESIGN WITH STRETCH FABRICS

1. Sketch first using FLATS body template –no elongation or distortion to the figures - a. front, side, back view 2. Body templates are available on my Blog www.justinelimpusparish.wordpress.com 3. Determine Stretch Ratio – you must buy fabric before you attempt to drape or make patterns. 4. Swim & Stretch Patternmakers specialize in this material and will ask for the stretch ratios before they can make a or a sample

STETCH TEST

Cut out a 5” x 5” piece of fabric

Stretch entire width and length, not just center section.

See Stretch Test Worksheet

DRAPE PATTERN PIECES ON

FOR STRETCH FABRIC - YOU MUST DRAPE WITH THE ACTUAL FABRIC YOU WILL BE USING FOR THE FINISHED GARMENT.

1. Start by pinning black tape to dress form to determine lines. 2. Use black ¼” . 3. Start from Center Front or Center Back and work out toward side seams. 4. Fabric must be straight with the line as you add each piece. 5. If garment is symmetrical you can drape ½ of design, 6. Photo and scan into Photoshop to mirror other side and work with color ways to see design options. 1 STRETCH FABRIC PATTERNMAKING INSTRUCTIONS – JUSTINE PARISH - 2012

7. Each new piece you add goes under the edge of the previous piece.

If the seam is too far from the

apex of the curve

it may along the edge unless it is stretched tight.

For looser to garment, move the seam closer to the curve apex as shown.

Note that the seam has been moved and is smoother.

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MARK THE STITCHING LINES OF EACH PIECE

Use ’s chalk and draw a line along the edge of the fold and along the matching line on the underneath piece.

Mark all notches for seam sections that will need to connect precisely such as curves, corners, etc

MATERIALS TO TRANSFER FABRIC PIECES TO PATTERN PAPER

All available at ACE Sewing Supply downtown

Draw cross hair grid line on paper. Paper is “dotty” pattern paper

This corresponds to GRAIN and CROSSGRAIN lines on fabric piece. pattern piece to paper.

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TRANSFER STITCHING AND CUTTING LINES TO PAPER.

Use pattern marking wheel. It will make holes in the paper, or use carbon transfer paper to transfer dotted lines to paper.

Remove fabric and redraw lines stitching lines with pattern curves and straight edges.

Add –

1/2’ if you are doing a fitting.

3/8” for production sewing.

Add pattern piece description, all notations, grain direction, notches, etc…onto each piece of the pattern.

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