The ‘Ticket’ Collection

Inari Tee Dress & Crop Tee

The pattern includes two variations: A loose-fitting tee dress and a cropped A-line tee. Both variations have short sleeves with a rolled-up effect. The dress is slightly cocoon- shaped, with an uneven hemline and vents at the sides. Finish the neckline with a facing or with a neckband.

SS15-06-061-02

© Named Clothing Finland Oy / www.namedclothing.com / [email protected] Materials & supplies: • Fabric for dress: 135 - 255 cm / 1½ - 2¾ yd • Fabric for tee: 90 - 150 cm / 1 - 1¾ yd • (Neckband fabric: 10 cm / 4”) • (Fusible interfacing for the facings: 20 cm / ¼ yd) • (Clear elastic: 30 cm / 12”)

Choose a light- to medium-weight, soft fabric. The fabric can be non-stretch or slightly stretchy. Finish the neckline with a neckband if your fabric is soft or has stretch. Use the neckline facing if your fabric is non-stretch and firm. If you finish the neckline with the neckband, choose a knit fabric, such as jersey or rib-knit, for the band.

SIZES EUR 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 US 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 UK 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18

FABRIC REQUIREMENTS - TEE DRESS Fabric width (cm) Centimeters 150 cm 135 135 135 140 140 140 145 145 115 cm 145 145 145 235 240 245 250 255 Fabric width (in.) Yards 60” 1½ 1½ 1½ 1½ 1½ 1½ 1½ 1½ 45” 1½ 1½ 1½ 2½ 2¾ 2¾ 2¾ 2¾

FABRIC REQUIREMENTS - CROP TEE Fabric width (cm) Centimeters 150 cm 90 90 90 90 95 95 95 95 115 cm 90 90 90 145 150 150 150 150 Fabric width (in.) Yards 60” 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 45” 1 1 1 1½ 1¾ 1¾ 1¾ 1¾

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Metric Centimeters Bust 85 89 93 97 101 105 109 113 Waist 93,5 98 102 106 110 114 118 122 Hip 94,5 98,5 102 106 110 113,5 117,5 121,5 Bicep 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 Imperial Inches Bust 33½ 35 36½ 38¼ 39¾ 41¼ 43 44½ Waist 36¾ 38½ 40¼ 41¾ 43¼ 45 46½ 48 Hip 37¼ 38¾ 40¼ 41¾ 43¼ 44¾ 46¼ 47¾ Bicep 13½ 13¾ 14¼ 14½ 15 15¼ 15¾ 16¼

• 2 • Measuring instructions A. Bust measurement: Measure your chest across the fullest part, on top of your bra. Keep the measuring tape horizontally straight at the sides.

B. Waist measurement: Measure against your skin, around the narrowest section A of your waist.

C. Hip measurement: Measure your hips at the widest part, on top of your underwear. B Note that the widest part can also be the top of your thighs. C Size chart

EUR size 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 US size 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 UK size 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 Bust (cm/”) 76/30 80/31½ 84/33 88/34½ 92/36¼ 96/37¾ 100/39½ 104/41 Waist (cm/”) 60/23½ 64/25¼ 68/26¾ 72/28¼ 76/30 80/31½ 84/33 88/34½ Hip (cm/”) 84/33 88/34½ 92/36¼ 96/37¾ 100/39½ 104/41 108/42½ 112/44

Before you start • Read all instructions before you start. You can • If possible, pre-wash and iron all fabrics before find additional instructions and vocabulary on our cutting; this way you will prevent the finished website in the “Instructions” section. garment from shrinking during the wash. If the fabric frays easily, finish the raw edges before • Refer to the size chart above to find the size that washing. If the fabric does not allow washing or suits you, and see the fabric requirements chart to you are not able to pre-wash the fabric, steam it determine how much material you need for your before cutting. Some of the possible shrinkage size. A shrinkage allowance of 5 % is added to will occur by steaming. Do not cut a wrinkled the fabric requirements calculation. Note that for fabric as the shapes of the pieces may become patterned or napped fabrics the fabric requirement distorted. may be higher. • Compare the finished garment measurements • Buy the fabric using the guidelines given in the with your own measurements and make the product description. The qualities of the fabric necessary adjustments. However, consider the are affected by e.g. thickness, drape, material, amount of ease in each pattern. The patterns are weave, stretch and slipperiness of the fabric. designed for the height of 172 cm / 5ft 8”, so also When choosing a fabric, consider what you would check the length of the garment/sleeves/legs by like the finished garment to be - constructed or measuring the pattern. Refer to the Instructions/ flowing, warm or cool, festive or casual? Consider Pattern alterations section of our website for your own sewing skills as well: As a rule of basic instructions on how to alter a pattern. thumb, it can be considered that the lighter the fabric is, the more challenging it is to sew; a • Remember that you don’t always have to play by satin weave is more difficult than a plain weave; a the rules! If you are not used to doing everything non-stretch fabric is easier to sew than one with as described in the instructions, you can always stretch, and slippery fabric is trickier than coarse. skip them and work however you prefer instead. It Find more instructions in the material guide on is ok and recommended to modify the patterns to our website, and if you are unsure about a suitable suit your own body shape and personal taste! The fabric, you can always ask for help at your fabric selected material may also affect the techniques shop! and the order of procedures. If you are unsure about a technique, make a sample before sewing • Choose the interfacing according to the colour the actual piece. and weight of your fabric.

• 3 • Printing the patterns You can find illustrated instructions for printing Follow the size and pattern piece that you are the patterns on our website under “Instructions / tracing carefully. Check the cover page to see Using the patterns”. The patterns are in a layered which line color and style refers to your size. All PDF file, which means that all of the sizes are pattern pieces include seam allowances. Be sure to stacked on top of each other on the different also trace all the pattern markings, notches and layers. To choose the size that you need, open aid lines. Refer to the pattern markings chart on the pattern file in a suitable program, e.g. Adobe the cover page of the pattern file to see what the Acrobat or Adobe Reader. To open a list of all symbols represent. the file’s layers, click on the Layers icon on the left panel of the window. An eye icon next to the Pattern Markings layer’s name means that the layer is active. You can hide the layer by clicking on the eye icon. A notch is a short cut made to the edge of the Before printing, make sure that only the layers seam allowance, which allows matching the you want to print (the right size/sizes) remain pattern pieces together. Cut out all the pattern’s active. The text layer should also always remain notches carefully to the marked points, before active. It is important that the printer doesn’t detaching the pattern pieces. For a piece that is scale the sheet size but prints the pattern in actual cut on the fold, the center front and center back size. There is a 10 cm / 3” test square on the first notches are marked; cut a normal notch to the page of the pattern to help you ensure that the seam allowance up to the point where the fabric is pattern has been printed to scale. folded, i.e. the piece’s center point.

Pattern sheet assembly After printing your pattern, arrange the sheets according to the image on the cover page of the pattern sheet. The right bottom corner of each sheet is numbered and labeled with the product name - this way you can always check the correct order of the sheets. Normally the patterns are printed in the correct order. Cut off one long and one short border marked on the edge of each Mark the other pattern markings carefully on sheet. Cut the same long and short side of each the fabric before removing the pattern pieces. paper and tape or glue the sheets together so that Such markings are e.g. the tips of darts, pocket you link the uncut side to the cut side next to it. placements, buttons and buttonholes. They are It is the easiest and fastest to first link all vertical marked on the pattern with either matching or horizontal rows and then assemble the other points, matching lines, cut lines or button/ direction. Cut and assemble the pattern sheets as buttonhole marks (see chart). All such symbols/ carefully as you can to keep the proportions of the markings are traced on the fabric by placing a pin pattern correct. needle at the mark, by knotting a short piece of thread at it or by marking with chalk. Tracing the pieces Once you’ve matched up the pattern sheet, trace each pattern piece on to a separate pattern paper. The patterns may overlap on the sheet, but if you want to cut the patterns directly from the printer paper without tracing them, you can usually print and assemble the sheet twice, and then cut all pieces directly from the sheets. You can also check the pattern sheet image on the pattern’s cover page to see which pages you may need to print twice to get all the pattern pieces. Large pattern pieces might be cut in half to fit the pattern sheet. If so, find the two halves and join at the letters.

• 4 • General instructions and vocabulary In the instructions, right and left refer to the Pressing is crucially important and each seam right and left side of the garment (when the should be pressed after sewing. Seams are often garment is on, right side out). pressed open, seam allowances folded to each side of the seam. In some cases the seam allowances The pieces are matched according to the notches. are pressed to one side, for example when they The corners should be aligned so that the will be top- or understitched. stitching lines of the pieces are aligned, not the edges of the cutting lines (see image). Sew the Seam allowances are clipped to reduce tension pieces together right sides together and so that or bulk in curved seams or narrow areas e.g. at the edges are even, unless otherwise indicated. corners. Curved seams: Clip or notch the seam allowances, but be careful not to cut too close to CORRECT the seam.

Corners: cut the seam allowances diagonally narrower at the tip of the corner. INCORRECT

All the pattern pieces have 1 cm / ⅜” seam allowances, unless otherwise stated. Sew the pieces together at the stitching line. You can finish the raw edges of your pieces with an overlocker or with a sewing machine’s If the garment has easing, an easing thread zigzag stitch. If the seam is pressed open, finish is sewn to the part to be eased. Easing means the edges separately. If the seam will not be when one of the pieces to be sewn together is pressed open, you can sew the seam first and then longer than the other (for example a sleeve cap), finish the edges together. If the fabric frays easily and the longer piece must be inserted so that (e.g. lining), finish all seams. In other cases, you the pieces will match up. An easing thread can can leave all the ‘hidden’ seams unfinished (for also be used to shape gathers. When making an example, the collar and collar stand pieces, belts, easing, the fabric must not be pleated or wrinkled. tabs, straps, front edges of lined jackets, etc.). Sew the easing thread to the seam allowances approximately 5 mm / ¼” from the edge, using a Always pin the pieces together before sewing. long stitch length, and shape the easing/gathers When pinning, consider the sewing direction of evenly by tightening the bobbin thread. If there is the seam so that removal of the pins is easy when very little easing, an easing thread is not needed. sewing. A basting stitch is used when the seam is difficult to be pinned or the pieces are difficult Understitching is used to attach the seam to be kept in place with pins while sewing. When allowances to the lining or facing, and it will not basting, the pieces are sewn together by hand be visible on the right side of the garment. When with long stitches, and the basting thread is understitching, the seam allowances are pressed removed after sewing the actual seam. to the lining/facing side and stitched a few millimetres away from the seam line, through the Make a couple of back stitches at the beginning seam allowances and facing/lining only. and end of each seam to prevent unraveling: first sew a couple of stitches forward, then back, then Topstitching is similar to understitching, but continue forward again. For topstitching, you can it is visible on the right side of the garment. All finish the seam by pulling both thread ends to the topstitching should be stitched from the right side wrong side and knotting them a few times. of the fabric, if possible.

• 5 • Cutting the fabric Cutting layout • Check the cutting layout to find out how many For the dress, cut the bottom edge along line 1, pieces of each pattern piece need to be cut and and for the tee along line 2. how. Cut either the neckband or the facing, • Fold the fabric right sides together. If the piece depending on how you want to finish the is cut from a single layer of fabric, place the fabric neckline. right side up. • Place the pattern pieces on the fabric in the Dress: direction of the grain; Lay the pieces on the fabric carefully and check with a measuring tape that the 1 Front - cut 1 on fold grainline arrow marked on the pattern is parallel 2 Back - cut 1 on fold to the selvedge or the fold of the fabric. If one of 3 Sleeve - cut 2 the pattern’s edges is dashed and the piece does 4 Sleeve panel - cut 2 not have a separate grainline marked on it, you should place the pattern on the fold. The dashed line indicates the grain direction. 4 FOLD • You can lay the pattern pieces on the fabric as 3 suggested in the cutting layout. Note that the

layout presented is for the size EUR40 (US8, SELVEDGE UK12) and 150 cm / 60” wide fabric. Arrange the pieces as close to each other as possible to avoid waste. Use pins or weights to attach the pattern pieces to the fabric. • If your fabric is patterned or napped and you 2 1 have to match the pattern/print or cut the pieces in a certain direction, place the pieces on the fabric as needed instead of following the cutting layout. • Note that the width of the interfacing in the cutting layout is 90 cm / 30”. If your fabric is FOLD light, interface the pieces and seam allowances completely. If your fabric is medium-weight FOLD

or heavy, cut seam allowances of only a few SELVEDGE millimetres for the interfacing pieces. • Mark all the pattern markings on the fabric before removing the patterns.

Neckband fabric:

5 Neckband - cut 1 on fold SELVEDGE

5 FOLD

• 6 • Sewing instructions Tee: Unless otherwise indicated, match all pieces right 1 Front - cut 1 on fold sides together and with raw edges even. 2 Back - cut 1 on fold Right side Wrong side 3 Sleeve - cut 2 4 Sleeve panel - cut 2 All the pieces have a 1 cm / ⅜” seam allowance, 6 Front facing - cut 1 on fold unless otherwise stated. Seam allowances of other 7 Back facing - cut 1 on fold widths are marked in the patterns. 1. Cut the garment pieces and transfer all pattern 4 markings to the fabric. For pieces that are cut on the fold, snip center front and center back notches FOLD 7 on the neckline. 3 2. Finish the raw shoulder seams, side seams and 6

SELVEDGE the sleeve seams. 3. Sew the shoulder seams and press the seam allowances open. If your fabric has stretch, insert a clear elastic in the shoulder seams on the front piece side (this will prevent the shoulder seam from stretching in use).

1 2 FOLD FOLD SELVEDGE

Interfacing: 6 Front facing - cut 1 on fold 7 Back facing - cut 1 on fold FOLD

6 FOLD 7 SELVEDGE

• 7 • 4. Sew the side seams, for the dress only down to Turn the bottom corners right side out, fold the vent notch, and press open. Finish the raw the bottom edge to the wrong side by 3 cm bottom edge. and press carefully Press also the 1 cm / ⅜” seam allowances at the vent edges to the wrong side. Stitch the vents and the bottom edge in one continuous row of stitches, pivoting at the corners and at the end of the vent.

Tee: Fold the bottom edge to the wrong side by 2 cm / ¾” (at the hem notches). Press and stitch. 5. Fold the bottom edge: 6. Sew the sleeve seams and press open. Dress: Fold the bottom edges to the right side by 7. With right sides together, sew across the sleeve 3 cm / 1¼” (at the hem notches) and sew the ends. panel’s short ends and press open. Fold the panel in half, wrong sides together, and press.

• 8 • Place the panel to the wrong side of the sleeve Turn the bodice wrong side out and the sleeve opening (the right side of the panel against the right side out. Place the sleeve on the armhole wrong side of the seeve) with raw edges even, and inside the bodice, matching notches and sew. sew. Finish the seam allowances together. Finish the seam allowances together and press them towards the bodice.

Fold the panel to the right side of the sleeve, press carefully and stitch to the sleeve seam by hand.

9. Finish the neckline either with a neckband or with a facing. Choose the neckband if your fabric is soft or has stretch. Use the facing if your fabric is non-stretch and firm. Neckband: With right sides together, sew across the neckband’s short ends and press open. Fold the neckband in half, wrong sides together, and press.

8. Set the sleeves: Sew or baste an easing thread to the sleeve cap and form the ease by tightening the bobbin thread.

• 9 • Place the neckband on the right side of the Facing: Interface the facing pieces and finish the neckline with raw edges even, matching notches raw shoulder edges. Sew the shoulder seams of and positioning the neckband’s seam at the center the facing and press open. Finish the raw bottom back notch. Sew the neckband on and finish the edge of the facing. With right sides together, sew seam allowances together. Press the neckband the facing to the neckline. upwards with all seam allowances towards the bodice. Check that the neckband is correctly set and topstitch, if necessary.

Clip seam allowances at the neckline and finish them together. Press the seam allowances towards the facing and understitch. Fold the facing carefully to the wrong side and press. Stitch the facing to the shoulder seams of the bodice by hand, to make sure that it stays on the wrong side. 10. Press the garment.

• 10 •