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ISSUE 2 AUGUST 2017

THE FIRST DIGITAL MAGAZINE JUST FOR DRESSMAKERS

SEW

the look Midi skirts Sassy sweatshirts

PLUS Transcend the seasons with tips for looking garments to take you into autumn after the most Denim, the hottest fabric this season precious item in your sewing room!

TechniquesMakeTechniques your seamwork beautiful and invisible zips made easy WWW.THEPATTERNPAGES.COM

Hello August

Firstly, we’d like to say a huge thank you to all of you who took the trouble to download the first issue of The Pattern Pages. We’ve been overwhelmed by the wonderful response. It has now been downloaded more than 7,000 times, reached 12,000 people on Facebook, and 7,000 impressions from our pinned post on Twitter. So what can we say about issue 2? It’s all about the changing of the seasons with patterns and fabrics to see you through. We’re all hoping for more good weather but it’s time to start sewing for the unpredictable season where the in-between garments that we make take us from summer into autumn. The autumn edit does just that, and the patterns we’ve chosen will keep your wardrobe up-to-date Julie Bonnar too. We’ve tapped into two trends that are going to be big this season – midi skirts and there’s a new class of sweatshirt on the block! We welcome two guest writers this time – Jules Fallon from Sew Me Something shares her tips for making sure your seams are as good on the inside as the outside! And Debbie Shore, author and TV presenter guides us through inserting an invisible zip. Denim is the hottest fabric around at the moment and Kim Collins from Ann Normandy shares her tips on working with this fabric. We also look at patterns perfect for this fabric. This time, we enjoyed talking to Saara and Laura Huhta from Named Clothing and Caroline Smith from Sew la Di Da Vintage – both have some amazing patterns to sew.

Hope you enjoy reading! Julie and Em Emily Bonnar Julie Bonnar Emily Bonnar

IE FRONT COVER PS We’ll be back at the beginning of November with issue 3. Thanks to Pat Bravo for our PPS Don’t forget this magazine is interactive so you can click on the wonderful front cover photo. links to view the patterns, fabrics and websites mentioned.

TH IR IGITA AGAI ST F SSAS The fabric is IBH-74206 from the Boheme Indie collection SEW from Art Gallery Fabrics, and THE PATTERN PAGES the maxi dress pattern is from the Midi skirts look Sassy sweatshirts Burda Style pattern. www.thepatternpages.com PLUS For your local Indie Boheme tips for looking Transcend the seasons with after the most stockist, CLICK HERE Twitter: @ThePatternPages garments to take you into autumn precious item in Denim, the hottest fabric this season your sewing room! Pinterest: www.pinterest/thepatternpages To download the maxi dress Facebook: www.facebook.com/thepatternpages pattern, CLICK HERE Instagram: www.instagram.com/thepatternpages TechniquesMake your seamwork beautiful and invisible zips made easy WWW.THEPATTERNPAGES.COM

The Pattern Pages is an independent digital dressmaking EDITORS DESIGNER magazine that’s full of fashion, dressmaking, style and fun Julie Bonnar Sarah Barnes things to make Emily Bonnar [email protected] [email protected]

www.thepatternpages.com 3 Transcend the seasons ALL SIZES IN ONE SEWING PATTERN, FOR ONE LOW PRICE!

A FABULOUS COLLECTION OF DRESSES, SEPARATES AND CHILDRENSWEAR PATTERNS TO SEW AND MAKE YOUR OWN!

PATTERN 6519

New Look patterns available nationwide. For local stockist information Tel 0161 480 8734 or browse and buy online at www.simplicitynewlook.com

AUTUMN

Simplicity 8385

Our favourite pieces to carry you from summer to autumn while keeping your wardrobe up-to-date with the latest trends. We’re praying for an Indian summer!

8058 designed by Cynthia Rowley for Simplicity

LOVE THOSE LAYERS It’s still okay to wear your little summer camisole, just remember to take a jacket with you.

DO IT FOR THE FRILLS Spice up your look with these pretty SEW WORK CHIC frilly heels, pair with the Sew Different These trousers are a perfect dress and wear from day-to-night. example of a pattern that can take These heels will go with practically you right through the seasons. every pattern from this edit! There are so many styling choices but pick your fabric colours wisely. Miss Selfridge, This pattern has a skirt option with missselfridge.com wonderful waist detailing, how fab!

6 www.thepatternpages.com New Look, newlook.com AUTUMN edit PINK TO MAKE THE BOYS WINK LIGHTWEIGHT KNIT Add a splash of pastel We’re always in need of that colour to your autumn comfy yet stylish dress that outfit. This cute pink bag you can throw on to go is ideal for pepping up anything. This Mimi G pattern basics in your wardrobe. will be your new go-to dress.

Sew Different

8334 by Mimi G for Simplicity 8334

AN INDIAN SUMMER

1. Ease your wardrobe into autumn – don’t go for the wardrobe overhaul all at once, you never know, the weather can still be warm!

2. Before sewing, take note of what you already have in your FLOAT INTO AUTUMN wardrobe and make a list of the The perfect dress for the changing items you’re missing that will season, this tie-belt soft fitting complement. A-line dress will look great on those warmer autumnal days. 3. It’s all about layering up, a plain lightweight jacket with a handy addition to your favourite summer tops.

4. Don’t forget to accessorise!

5. Make the most from your patterns – many of these pieces PERFECT PLEATS can be made in different fabrics That perfect in-between season top, for both day and night. lightweight and cool but got that extra arm length so you can carry on wearing it 6. Stick to a colour story, and right through the autumn. Style with your make garments in fabrics from favourite jeans and pair up with sandals the same colour palette so you or boots depending on the unpredictable can mix and match. weather to complete the look. Trend Patterns

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On our radar Things we thought you might like to know......

Fans of hand embroidery For anyone looking to embrace the embroidery trend, then look no further than these wonderful transfer sheets from the Threaders collection by Crafter’s Companions. Choose from beautiful designs including vintage sewing, florals, nature and vintage tea party themes, each set consists of six sheets of reusable designs featuring borders, sentiments, embellishments and alphabets in both lowercase and uppercase letters, making them ideal for personalising your sewing. The sets are great for beginners as they include an embroidery guide. Embroidery has never been so easy! Embroidery transfer sheets come in sets of four with free Sew like a pro! stranded cotton for £19.96 from Crafter’s Companion The Atelier series is the latest range of computerised sewing machines from Janome, and have been designed to meet every sewing challenge thrown at them! The contemporary styled, well-illuminated, Plan your next sewing adventure free arm sewing machines have easy-to-use features, which are perfect to take your sewing By Hand London has just launched a PDF sewing planner. Choose from 6 to a new level. The larger arm space and silhouettes and 3 different layouts to help you keep track of your favourite feeding system ensure they’re equally suited to fabrics, trims, and tools. There’s also a croquis page where you can design both larger projects and precision sewing. your garment, and create mini There’s an amazing range of stitches and mood boards. And because it’s a you can enjoy the sewing time saving features PDF download you only have to such as a one-hand needle threader, automatic buy it once. Mistakes become thread cutter, easy reverse button, locking no big deal as you can keep stitch button, memorised needle up/down, reprinting it forever. speed control slider, and a start/stop button for It costs £7 from the ladies at stitching those long seams. By Hand London The specially designed bobbin case and cover mean there’s no need to pull long thread tails up and through when you first thread the machine. Slip the bobbin thread in the cover plate guide and the built in cutting blades trim the tail to the correct length. After the initial threading, the auto-thread cutter takes care of trimming and re-setting the tails each time. A feature that is a must for dressmakers is that you can remove part of the machine base to reveal the narrow protruding arm under the needle area making it easy to sew cuffs, trouser legs and other tubular objects, and ideal for sewing in hard to reach areas of a project. Using the right tools at the right time is important in dressmaking. When using lightweight fabrics, the straight stitch needle plate makes all the difference. The One Step Plate Converter allows you to easily switch and use the perfect plate for your sewing. The Atelier series of sewing machine can be viewed on the Janome website.

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Shows you shouldn’t miss Great British Sewing Bee contestants lead packed workshop programme

Talented contestants from The Great British Sewing Bee’s four TV seasons are lining up to share their dressmaking and tailoring skills at The Great British Sewing Bee Live between 21st - 24th September at ExCel London.

FROM SEASON 2 Chinelo Bally shares her freehand method of mapping body measurements directly onto fabric, darting and fitting, to create a perfectly fitted bodice. Tamara Melvin makes loungewear with a lazy day oversized sweatshirt, shares her GBSB challenge-winning tie-making technique and upcycles a man’s shirt into a casual top and a T-shirt into a tote bag.

FROM SEASON 3 Paul Clarke recreates his elephant ballerina headwear from Children’s Costume week, Stitching, Sewing & using polar fleece, toy stuffing and 3D costume making. Paul will also share tailoring techniques, teaching how to insert double welt pockets into any garment. Hobbycrafts on tour! While we’re all loving draping FROM SEASON 4 ourselves in summer fabrics, we know Jade Earley (GBSB’s that Christmas is just around the youngest ever contestant) corner – and that’s a season with a lot makes a child’s PJ set and of dressmaking to be done! Whether yoga pants using four-way you’ll be creating knockout cocktail stretch fabric and shares the attire or nativity costumes, you’ll want secrets of successful sewing to make a visit to Stitching, Sewing & with beaded and sequin Hobbycrafts to discover top trends fabrics. She also talks zips, and ideas, fabric inspiration and all demonstrating how to insert the haberdashery supplies you could a centre zip, an invisible zip dream of. and a metal chunky zip, and Uncover new products and joins Joyce Bellingham to innovations, watch demonstrations provide tips on sewing with and take part in workshops on a bias binding. range of techniques to make sure that your next project truly shines! FROM SEASON 4 Jade Earley You’ll uncover the latest fabrics, Tracey Symonds explains patterns and tools with the industry’s how to draft a simple top names to guide you and enjoy trapeze swing top pattern, exclusive features displays. makes a child’s cotton sundress and demonstrates STITCHING, SEWING free motion embroidery. & HOBBYCRAFTS Jamie Kemp shows how 7th - 9th September to tailor beautiful welt, at EventCity, Manchester jetted and flap pockets and 21st - 24th September teaches canvas interface at Westpoint, Exeter construction for tailored 26th - 29th October jackets. at SEC, Glasgow Angeline Murphy 2nd - 5th November demonstrates how to at NEC, Birmingham add a peplum to a skirt to Angeline Murphy add volume and style and TO BUY TICKETS CLICK HERE transforms a treasured item of clothing into a keepsake memory bear. A host of top UK sewing tutors including Celia Banks, Claire Tyler, Janice Croft, Jane White, Libby Rose and Wendy Gardiner will also be joining the GBSB contestants for the event’s packed programme of workshops. A full workshop timetable, tutor list and booking details can be found at www.thegreatbritishsewingbeelive.com/WSP Tickets for The Great British Sewing Bee Live at www.thegreatbritishsewingbeelive.com

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TALES OF DORSET So beautiful and nostalgic, the new cut & sew kit from Sew La Di Da Vintage, includes everything you need to make this sweet girl’s dress. The fabric in the kit features cute country embroidered critters, which has been designed pays homage to the county. For V&A fans Priced at £30 and available from Sew La Di Da Vintage People Tree has been creating beautiful designs whilst respecting both people and planet and its newest endeavour partners with the V&A. The new collection debuts 8-piece capsule collection celebrates the variety and beauty of pattern in the museum’s Take the hassle out of rich archives. Inspired by the ’30s, printing PDF patterns the limited edition collection recalls the elegant outfits of the period with a contemporary twist. Key to the Love to be able to download PDF collection is romantic long, lean shapes patterns but haven’t got a home and subtle ruffle details. The two prints printer? We found an online service that are based on dress fabrics originally will do it for you! Simply upload the produced by the Calico Printer’s copy shop version of your PDF sewing Association in Manchester, England, pattern on to the Print Your Patterns now held in the V&A’s archive. website and they’ll print, fold and post To view the garments, visit People Tree your pattern to you and deliver free.

SEWING MACHINE DEBUT

Fans of Butterick sewing patterns are going to love the EB6100, the first sewing machine from the pattern company. This computerised sewing machine is perfect for beginners because it has a controllable speed, comprehensive manual and comes with a two-year warranty for peace of mind. The features for dressmakers include a large extension table for supporting lots of fabric, automatic threader, stitch selector giving you 100 stitch types and 7 presser feet including one for buttonholes. It’s currently priced at £599 and makes its debut on Create and Craft channel

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DENIM the hottest fabric this season

We all love our jeans whatever the season, and they’ve become the much-loved go-to PICK garment really since they were invented, but this season we’re seeing denim in a new light. Fabric manufacturers have launched fabric collections of denim with medium and lightweight versions as well as a wider A match made selection of cool colours, which are great in denim for making other garments like dresses, A SEAMSTRESS FAVOURITE skirts and tops. Ginger skinny jeans Case Closet Patterns

HAPPENING ON THE HIGH STREET

Wedge sandals from Dorothy Perkins combine the denim vibe with a natural weave heel, dorothyperkins.com

A BUTTON-LESS TAKE ON THIS SEASON’S SHIRTDRESS Designed by Lisette to showcase your topstitching! Butterick 6482, Sew Direct SHORT & SWEET Pattern 8300 icludes how to get the frayed at the edges look Simplicity

A GATHERED SKIRT Deep scoop pockets, gorgeous exposed zip and contoured Denim holds embroidery waistband are some of the Mix up your denim fabrics designs perfectly. Look how stunning options for the like this azure check pretty this embroidered Brumby skirt tunic from White Stuff, pinafore dress look from Megan Nielsen whitestuff.com Evans, evans.co.uk

www.thepatternpages.com 15 Denim fabrics got interesting – we put the latest colours, prints and weights in the spotlight

MODELO DENIM Available in PRINTED RETRO 12 shades DENIM FABRIC Click here to find £10.30 per metre your local stockist Empress Mills

MID-BLUE LIGHTWEIGHT Denim with Tencel £10.50 per metre Croft Mill

STUDIO DENIM COLLECTION WITH WONDERFUL PRINTS Art Gallery Fabrics Click here to find a local stockist SLUB DENIM Available in 10 shades £9.90 per metre Empress Mills

TINTED DENIM COLLECTION With 6 pretty pastel shades Cloud9

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Digital Sewing Patterns for the Modern Woman

Exceptional design and fit

Professionally crafted with classic construction techniques.

Comprehensive instructions and photos

www.ann-normandy.com

Delve into DENIM Kim Collins shares her tips on working with this working class fabric

What’s not to love about denim? Its Having the right tools and preparation of your humble beginnings denim with the following tips will make for a of the workhorse problem free project: utilitarian textile, and used for work clothes, it has also been a fashion staple for the past 50 years plus.

Denim is a great versatile fabric for all kinds of sewing projects but can be a little intimidating.

• Embellishments or details of the design such as ruffles and the likes, may Pairing denim not be suited for heavy weight denim.

and pattern • Denim is a twill woven fabric that’s woven on a diagonal and isn’t suitable You really need to consider the for obvious diagonals. elements of the pattern you’re using to select the correct weight denim to • It’s always best to follow the lead work with: of the designer’s pattern fabric recommendations. • Heavier weight types of denim are more suitable for sewing patterns • Use a cotton wrapped polyester, or which are simple in design and require polyester thread while sewing your structure, and use straight seams such as project for durability. Use a contrasting bags, vests and alike. thread colour for the topstitching.

18 www.thepatternpages.com Preparing Stitching denim your fabric Before pre-washing, sew an NEEDLES – It’s best to use a fresh needle at the overcast or zigzag stitch to start of the project. Denim needles would be the prevent fabric fray. Pinking shears best pick. Denim will dull a needle quickly so you can also be used. may need to change out the needle depending on the size of the project. Raw denim, not sanforized (pre- shrunk) will shrink anywhere between 2 and 5 per cent. Take that into consideration while measuring your fabric. Prewashing 2 or 3 times in cold water with either like colours or separately is essential before cutting “The rule of thumb is that the or sewing, as denim will continue to shrink. heavier the denim weight, the TIP: longer the needle is necessary. A Add white vinegar to the sturdier pin may be needed for final rinse to eliminate any traces or detergent heavy denim too.” and to neutralise the PH level. Vinegar will also help retain the colour and Machine tension – A standard tension setting is typically a 5, but if you’re sewing prevent premature fading. a thicker denim and using a thicker thread you’ll need a looser tension. Test tensions with scraps of fabric and thread that you’ll be using for your project for the optimal tension. Machine dry until the fabric is slightly damp to prevent Stitch length – Heavy denim should have roughly ten stitches for every 3mm (1in). premature crocking or atari that Lighter weights twelve stitches/3mm (1in). will cause the dye to bleed in the creases. Press the fabric while Cutting – Using a sharp pair of scissors is essential. I find a rotary cutter works well slightly damp and lay flat to air dry. too but always start with a new blade.

Hemming – A 1.27cm (½in) hem is recommended to prevent roll up.

Seams - Flat felled seams are the most popular for both durability and to conceal raw edges, as well as a clean finish with a decorative top stitch. Pressing the seams throughout the process will help you achieve a crisply finished seam.

Interfacing When using an interfacing, use a lighter weight fabric to preventing it from being too bulky. A fun contrasting fabric would be a fun touch. Gütermann’s Jeans thread pack is perfect for decorative seams Professional finish Sewn denim just as any heavier woven fabrics is going to have thick layers. Pressing and denim repairs. It includes 5 seams flat as well as giving each exposed raw edge a zigzag, overcast stitch or a straight reels with bi-optical colour tones stitch with a trim with pinking shears will give your seams a professional quality finish. of ochre, amber and dark blue to As always, take it slow for clean straight stitches and press to set the seam before blend in with allsorts of denim to moving on to the next step. give a professional finish. There are two reels of extra strong Kim Collins lives just outside of Detroit, MI, in the US with her husband, 13-year- thread in each pack to work on old son and their St. Bernard, Bode. It doesn’t get any better than to bring heavier weight fabrics. The pack together constant lifetime passions to create a women’s apparel sewing pattern is priced at £14.60. To find your collection. Kim Collins’ journey in clothing design started early in life while being local stockist email: gütermann@ taught how to sew by her grandmother. Kim Collins, designer and owner Ann Normandy Design, ann-normandy.com. stockistenquiries.co.uk

www.thepatternpages.com 19 Clothkits clothing kits are perfect for beginners to dressmaking and experienced sewers alike. Learn to sew with these unique kits. We also stock a wide range of independent sewing patterns, dressmaking tools and lots of lovely fabrics including Liberty and Japenese fabrics.

PAPER PATTERNS - CLOTHKITS

A-line Skirt, £13.50 All Seasons Shift Dress, £13.50 ‘50s Vintage Tea Dress, £13.50

Echino Stripe Bustle Birdsong Bustle Skirt Kit, Tartan & Liberty Bustle Skirt Kit , £49 £59 Skirt Kit, £59

PAPER PATTERNS – COLETTE PATTERNS & MERCHANT MILLS

Chantilly Summer Dress, Zinnia Skirt, £13.50 The Dress Shirt, £13.50 £13.50

16 The Hornet, Chichester, PO19 7JG www.clothkits.co.uk Fabric statement jewellery £64 from Gudbling www.etsy.com Christine Hornicke has some inspirational pieces of fabric jewellery in her Etsy shop that certainly will make a statement when you wear them.

Tassel heels £35 from Dorothy Perkins www.dorothyperkins.com Go the whole hog and splash out on these sandals with tassels and pompoms!

TASSELS Tap into this season’s tassel trend, and add some fringed benefits to your accessories

Dip-dyed tassel earrings $23, Kingston Jewellery www.etsy.com We love these handmade earrings. They’re are a great statement piece and are very light on the ears too.

Suede bag £69 from La Redoute www.laredoute.co.uk Add a bit of hippy chic with this luxurious leather tassel bag.

Looped fringing £1.49 per metre from JosyRose www.josyrose.com A vibrant multi-coloured fringing with pink sequin header that’s perfect for customising garments and accessories. See our blouse project on page 26.

www.thepatternpages.com 21 It’s all in the name We catch up with Laura and Saara – the lovely ladies behind the indie sewing pattern company, Named

Laura Saara

Head shot photography by Liisa Salonen Tell us a little bit about yourselves and the Named idea of a fashion-forward indie pattern label, we got carried away, and Clothing brand? started working towards the launch of the business. In August 2013, Behind the brand, there’s the two of us, Saara & Laura Huhta a year later, our first pattern collection saw the light of day! (sisters) from Helsinki, Finland. We started the indie pattern label in the autumn of 2013. We design and make women’s sewing patterns How is it working in a sister team? (We know and sell them on our online webshop, studio shop in Helsinki, and working with family has its tests!) also through a bunch of retailers around the globe. It’s mostly fun, and very rewarding. It’s great to have a business partner that you can really rely on, and we’ve always been close. Why did you decide on the dressmaking path? But there are definitely hard times too, especially at the stressful We’ve both been passionate about sewing and crafts since we were periods of the product development process, but nothing we can’t little, and the love for all things DIY was probably inherited from our work out together. mother. She’s a seamstress and an upholsterer. Saara is a fashion designer and a patternmaker, and Laura has Tell us a little bit about the patterns in the a degree in shoe design. After graduating from design school, we collection so far, what made you choose them? worked for a while in different companies in the fashion field, before We design two collections a year, one for spring/summer and one for realising it was time for us to take a step further, and start our own autumn/winter. Each collection has been designed around a specific business in something that we really love - sewing clothes! visual theme, which we always find inspirational. Our aim is to design The idea of Named came to us somewhat suddenly, we’d never clothes that are stylish yet timeless and classic, and something that planned having our own pattern label, even though we’d dreamed you can see yourself wearing for a longer time than just for one season. of running a business together. But as soon as we came up with the We like to add a little twist by drafting fun, unusual cuts and

22 www.thepatternpages.com MAKERS in the spotlight

techniques to the mix too. We also pay a lot of attention to the future brings, so it’s impossible to little details. estimate what will happen for the next five years. Probably something still What do you feel makes you stand out from related to fashion and sewing. It’s other independent pattern companies? a fantastic field to work in, so don’t Probably our clean and simple Scandinavian aesthetics, but also think we’re ever going to the fact that we release full collections (or mini collections of 8 to leave it, unless something 10 patterns). very drastic happens. There are some brands that work the same way as we do, but many also release single patterns. We find by designing a full Are there any spoilers collection of clothes we can create clothing that’s visually tempting you can share? and a complete capsule wardrobes with garments that are easy to Well, we’ll be releasing combine with each other. our new collection in September! It’s a really What is your favourite pattern you’ve designed cool collection but for so far? now we’ll keep all details We really love the Reeta dress from our Playground collection. In under wraps! Reeta, we’ve accomplished a classic and timeless style but added lots of fun details. It’s also a pattern which just calls for experimenting with fun prints and fabrics. We’ve seen so many cool versions of it on Instagram and blogs! It has been such a pleasure seeing what people have made with the pattern.

Who is your biggest sewing inspiration? It has to be our mom. She has made a lot of garments for us (and our dolls) when we were growing up. Today she mostly sews for herself, among with some customer projects once in a while (like right now she’s working on a wedding gown for her cousin). She’s a really talented and resourceful seamstress, who pays a lot of attention to details, and always aims for perfection! Which is something that we can’t help but admire.

How would you best describe your personal style, and what impact has it had on your pattern collections? We both like simple garments, but simple doesn’t mean boring! Our collections reflect our style quite well. Dressing well doesn’t have to be hard – you don’t have to own lots of clothes in your closet, or waste time in planning what to wear. When you have a set of garments that work well together, you know they can’t fail to look good too! An ideal outfit should be effortless and comfortable. Arto Markkanen Where do you see yourself in five years? This is a really hard question! We like to Contact Named live in the moment, and just see what the namedclothing.com

www.thepatternpages.com 23 Declutter your creative space in style with the Giant Thimble Tidy

Red Candy, www.redcandy.co.uk Machine 7 tips to make your machine sew like a dream!

REGULAR SERVICE

Most of us aren’t very good at having our sewing machines service so when you do, make sure you pick a reputable dealer that knows about your sewing machine brand. Ask on sewing forums for recommendations if you don’t know of one. 4 PROBLEM SOLVING If you’ve tried re-threading your machine and changing the needle then the next step should be to clean all the areas that can build up with lint such as the bobbin case and footplate. LUBRICATE Quality first Your sewing machine has lots of moving parts so oiling is essential to keep it Avoid buying running smoothly. Always use good inexpensive, low quality quality fine oil that’s clear so won’t ruin and coated threads, your projects. Your sewing machine as they’re bad for your manual will tell you exactly where to sewing machine, and put the oil – you only need a few drops. produce extra lint Always clean your machine before that clog up it up. Over-used or bent adding the oil. We’ve found this oil needles can cause stitch problems. Make pen from Madeira that’s It’s a puzzle sure you change your needle regularly. perfect for the job! Find Only take small parts of Around 10 hours of stitching is a good for £8.84 on Amazon your sewing machine time to change your needle. Experts apart at a time. Clean and say that your sewing machine will put to back together and have fewer skipped stitches if you use move onto the next. It Mircotex needles as they’ve a sharp tip can get very confusing and penetrate the fibre quickly. if you have a lot of screws and parts all over your sewing table, and are unsure of where they all go. If in doubt, always refer back to your instruction manual. LINT-FREE It’s important to give your machine a brush to remove TAKE THE TIME thread dust and lint. Don’t be tempted to use canned air or blow inside your machine as this can add moisture, It’s a perfect time after a which makes lint difficult to remove. Use the nylon brush sewing project to give your which usually comes with your sewing machine as well machine a little TLC. Take as a tiny screwdriver. Doing this regularly will make sure a moment to wipe it down your machine run much quieter too. Of course, always with a damp cloth, remove make sure your machine is switched off before doing this! any dust and lint. Your sewing Clean the exterior of the machine with a soft cloth. machine will then sew like a dream the next time you use it!7

www.thepatternpages.com 25 Fringed top Customising and up-cycling garments in your wardrobe can be just as rewarding as making something from scratch. We take a plain Jane top and give it a new lease of life with a funky multi-coloured tassel trim Do you fancy designing your own fabric to sew at home? Well now you can with THREADS Inkjet Printable Fabrics. We give it go

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STEP Measure the hemline of Materials your blouse. Ours was STEP TIPS TO SEW 1 plain blouse in need of up-cycling 96cm and cut a piece of Snap on a presser 2m x looped fringe trim 4 trim to match. Pin the trim 5 foot – this will help you Seam ripper in place with pins at right navigate around the Zipper foot angles to the trim making sure that the sequin header or any bulky trim header. Thread and bobbin to match trim hangs just below the hemline. Secure the trim to the front and sew Pins from the wrong side of the blouse Measuring tape To prevent damage to the sequined Tissue paper or sellotape header on the trim, we placed tissue paper between the fabric and needle plate. This helps it to feed smoothly under the feed dogs – if you don’t have tissue Steps to prepare paper, sellotape works just as well? Take it slow and steady for best results STEP Decide what you like Repeat the process for about the blouse and STEP the sleeves and iron using what you don’t. We a pressing cloth. And it’s 1 unpicked the side seams ready to wear! with a seam ripper to 6 detach the tie belt and then cut and re- hemmed the sleeves to a shorter more on-trend length.

There are lots of lovely STEP fringing around at the moment. We chose this 2 pretty multi-coloured 28mm looped fringing with pink sparkly sequin header.

Steps to make

Sleeves and the bottom STEP edge of the hem of the blouse are ideal places 3 to add the trim but you could also use around the neckline and pockets too. Measure Where Can I Buy around the sleeves and around the hem. *We’ve used this looped fringe We used just over 2m so it’s a really trim from JosyRose inexpensive make.

www.thepatternpages.com 27 Make your seamwork beautiful Jules Fallon shares her advice on how to create garment seams that not only do a good job holding it all together but also make everything look beautiful too

1 2 Finishing seams The raw edges of the seam need to be finished or neatened in some way that’s both appropriate to the fabric and the circumstance of the seam.

A clean finish This is an excellent way to finish a seam if you don’t possess an overlocker and are using a fairly lightweight fabric.

1. The seam is stitched and then pressed open. Press under the raw edge of one seam allowance by a 3mm or a scant 1/8in. Remember to use a pressing cloth or piece of card under the seam allowance to prevent the seam marking through to the right side of the garment.

2. The fold is then edge stitched to hold it in place. 3 3. Repeat this for the other side of the seam allowance.

28 www.thepatternpages.com Zigzagged seam Zigzagging gives a good finish on more stable fabrics such as cotton poplin or linen. It also tends to give a better finish on closed seams as the double layer of fabric also stabilises the zigzag stitch. 2 Sew the seam and press it flat as its been sewn.

1. Set the machine to a medium width and stitch length. You may wish to do 1 some test samples to gauge which is the beautiful correct setting for your machine. 2. Line up the seam allowance under the presser foot so the right hand side of the zigzag sews about 3mm away from the edge of the seam allowance. Sew down the length of the seam. 4 3. Trim back the seam allowance to the line of zigzag stitching. 4. Press the seam to one side. 3

Pinked seam Pinked seams are very easy to create, you just need a pair of pinking shears. Sew the seam and the press it flat as its been stitched. Using the pinking shears trim off about 3mm of the seam allowance to five a nice neat zigzagged edge to the seam. The seam can then be pressed open or to one side as your pattern dictates. Ovelocked or serged seam This is the quickest and most convenient way of finishing a seam. After sewing the seam, overlock the seam allowance, trimming off just enough fabric to get a clean finish to the edge. The seam allowances can be overlocked separately, but this can be a bit tricky after the seam has been sewn so more commonly they’re finished closed.

Mock overlocked seam A mock overlock is more of an elaborate zigzag stitch sewn on an ordinary sewing machine. Most modern sewing machines will have a variation of this. It gives the impression of an overlocked seam, but won’t trim any fabric off. It can also be used in place of overlocking when sewing with jersey. As with a normal zigzag, the best finish is obtained by sewing the mock overlock entirely on the seam allowance and trimming back the excess fabric close to the stitching.

The new book Complete Dressmaking – Essential skills and techniques for beginners (ISBN: 978-0-85762-167-2) by Jules Fallon, includes more great sewing techniques and tips. Published by Quarto Press, priced at £16.59. See Hooked on books on page 33.

www.thepatternpages.com 29

Giveaways Enter online for a chance to win one of these fabulous prizes

Denim Daze These denim threads will make all your denim dreams come true. Gütermanns’ Jeans thread pack is perfect for decorative seams and denim repairs. It includes 5 reels with bi-optical colour tones of ochre, amber and dark blue to blend in with allsorts of denim to give a professional finish. There are two reels of extra strong thread in each pack to work The Great British Sewing Bee Live on heavier weight fabrics. at Excel London UK

Visit the Great British Sewing Bee Live at Excel London on us! The show organisers boast that it will be the UK’s newest and largest dressmaking and sewing event. Shop, learn and explore at this show and catch up with contestants from all the series and meet the lovely Patrick Grant and Esme Young as well as lots of dressmaking experts to help broaden your sewing knowledge at the same time.

SEW HOUSE SEVEN Complete Dressmaking - Essential skills and techniques for beginners

We have 7 fabulous patterns from This is our new go-to sewing book. Written by one of our Sew House Seven to give away! experts from this issue, Jules From the quirky Burnside Bib to Fallon from Sew Me Something. the comfy Toaster Sweater. These We have 5 of these amazing books to giveaway thanks to patterns come as a bundle so Quarto Press. you’ll have yourself a little capsule wardrobe in no time at all.

Click to subscribe to our FREE digital dressmaking magazine and be entered into our giveaway. Subscribe *If you have already signed up, you will be automatically entered into the draw – sorry but currently only open to UK residents. HERE

www.thepatternpages.com 31

The latest sewing books that you’re going to want to have on your sewing room bookshelf on books

Complete Dressmaking – Essential skills and techniques for beginners By Jules Fallon 978-0-85762-167-2 All New Fabric Savvy: How to We’re delighted to see that Jules Choose & Use Fabrics Fallon, owner of the business Sew Me Sewing Supplies Handy By Sandra Betzina Something, and well-known name Pocket Guide 978-1631868412 in the dressmaking community has by Carla Hegeman Crim just released a book called Complete 9781617455346 The essential guide for every sewer just Dressmaking. With tons of information in one tiny got better! All New Fabric Savvy has been Although aimed at beginners, it’s a book, you’ll never be stumped by a updated to include 107 different fabrics; wonderful book for any sewer who sewing dilemma again. This mini book must-know information on determining wants to familarise themselves with is packed with mega information on fabric content, working with knits, and all elements of dressmaking including common sewing tools, supplies and different types of interfacing, removing learning about sewing patterns, materials. Carla Crim from the Scientific stains, and choosing lining materials, as understanding fabrics to mastering Seamstress shares 65 plus essential well as recommended tools and notions. techniques such as inserting zips, to nuggets on everything from sewing There are some great illustrated applying bias binding. machines and cutting tools to pins, reference sections on seams, details, Each technique is explored with elastic and thread. closures, and hems; 476 photographs carefully curated step-by-step Whether you’re wondering how to and 110 illustrations. photographs and illustrated artwork. use a particular interfacing or which Organised alphabetically, the 107 Jules addresses the most common sewing machine needle is best for each fabrics include old favourites such a problems that beginner dressmakers kind of fabric, you’ll find yourself turning cotton, wool, knits and silks to new encounter and advises on how to tackle to these useful charts and infographics options, some of which you might never them in special ‘help!’ panels throughout again and again. have heard of. the book. Where to buy Where to buy Where to buy Published by C&T Publishing, Published by Taunton Press, Published by Quarto Press, priced priced at £5.99, and available on available to pre-order (normally at £16.59, and available on Amazon. Amazon £23.99) from Amazon.

www.thepatternpages.com 33 Sew the look midi skirts Move into the new season with the latest skirt length

It doesn’t matter what age or shape you are, the midi skirt is a great style to wear. The perfect length to flatter you in all the right places. Here are our top picks to make and sew:

Colette – Seneca Stay cool and casual with this modern take on the midi skirt. Quick and easy to make, it’s perfect for those more laidback afternoons. colettepatterns.com

Named Clothing – Pulmu A great skirt if you’re looking for something smart and sophisticated. This high-waist pencil skirt features chic wide belt and D-ring fastening. namedclothing.com

34 www.thepatternpages.com Simplicity - 8388 Wear summer’s ruffle trend right through the autumn with this tiered elegant skirt. simplicitynewlook.com

Tilly and the Buttons – Dominique Designed for beginners, this midi skirt is perfect if you desire something very easy yet flattering, flowing, this is the perfect skirt for you. tillyandthebuttons.com Republique Du Chiffon – Ella The Ella, is a longer length midi pleated skirt. Perfect for everyday wear, dress down on the weekends with a T-shirt and trainers, or on a workday pair with a blouse and ankle boots. republiqueduchiffon.com

www.thepatternpages.com 35 SURBITON TO SAN TROPEZ

We talk to Caroline Smith from Sew La Di Da Vintage about her sewing patterns and love for everything vintage

Rose

Tell us a bit about you and Sew La Di Da Vintage? As a young girl, I loved to crochet and knit, and eventually when I was seven years old, my legs grew longer enough, and I learnt to sew on a treadle machine! I’m lucky that sewing came naturally to me. My mum sewed everything and taught me, and by the time I was 13 years old I was cutting my own patterns from newspaper!

How did you get into dressmaking? asked to teach at the Victoria & Albert (V&A) and as I hadn’t used After leaving college I was lucky enough to work in London as a a commercial pattern for a while, I realised that the sizes bore no designer. After a few years and deciding to start a family, it led me resemblance to our high street sizes. to having a few shops of my own, making bespoke wedding dresses, I set about studying the high street way of sizing and found an occasion wear garments for prom and Mother-of-the- bride. average for each size, did a little number crunching and decided to Most of my designs were vintage-inspired in some way or another, make my own pattern block size. so it naturally followed that my workshop and teaching space would After teaching Rose (still my best selling pattern), I found be cut from the same cloth! everyone on the workshop had been pleased with their results, so I The patterns came about as a problem solving exercise. I was set about designing more.

36 www.thepatternpages.com Margo MAKERS in the spotlight

“ Be brave and have fun – after all it’s only a piece of fabric. When you wear your creation your efforts will have been worth,” says Caroline.

Betty-Jean

Contact Sew La Di Da Vintage sewladidavintage.com

What has inspired the patterns in your collection so far? I love taking elements from the past and bringing them up-to-date to create a modern vintage look. I love watching old movies, going to exhibitions, reading books and of course going to vintage fairs and travelling. I look at silhouettes and details that are simple enough for complete beginners to rusty returners to sewing. Although the patterns are inspired by the past they can be worn in everyday fabrics such as denim, fancy silks and taffetas making them very versatile.

Do you have any favourite pattern you’ve designed and why? Oh it’s really hard to choose! I guess Rose and Margo. Rose is an iconic ’50s style frock and she’s one of our bestsellers. Margo is a wonderful unabashed playsuit that’s elegant and will be stylish whether in Surbiton or San Tropez! Both of these sewing patterns I’ve seen made up in a variety of fabrics and seen on all ages from 14 to late bloomers and beyond.

Who is your biggest inspiration to your sewing? My biggest inspiration is history and top-end couture, I really respect the work and you can see the love in every stitch that went Tell us about the people being the scenes at into the collections. I put my heart and soul into my work, and I’m Sew La Di Da Vintage? really passionate about empowering women to create their own style Sew La Di Da Vintage is a real family affair. My son Alex designed the and stitch themselves fabulous! Mr London waistcoat based on one he saw in the V&A museum. He did a great job and modelled it for me. My daughter Betty models for Who do your patterns appeal to? me too, and she is pictured wearing the Betty-Jean playsuit above. Having worked for years with women and girls I have a good My mum has dementia and is called Jean so I wanted to marry her knowledge of body shapes and also body issues. I wanted to make and my daughter together in this design forever. patterns that would make people feel good about themselves, with My team is mainly female, and I really value each of them for realistic sizing and flattering shapes. My patterns work for all ages their individual skills such as pattern cutting, teaching, sales, and sizes, as really they’re typically classic British designs. I’ve even writing, IT, and the occasional bit of modelling! It’s important that had a nun in Paris buy the Rose sewing pattern. we communicate well and are honest with each other because those All my patterns are designed with the sewer’s creativity in mind. relationships are crucial for a small business. Before starting my I always suggest making the garment up once, and then make again sewing school and manufacturing patterns I mainly worked alone perhaps embellishing with vintage trims and embellishments from but being a very sociable person I really love sharing my time now your stash. with students and my team.

Flower vector created by Lembrik - Freepik.com

www.thepatternpages.com 37 Frocks that Rock!

• Sewing School • Indie Pattern Designer • Workshops Year-round

• Weekly classes • ‘complete beginners’ to ‘rusty returns’ welcome

The Town Mill, Lyme Regis DT7 3PU, T: 01297 443205 www.sewladidavintage.com 10 minutes with... Abi Dyson, Simplicity’s Vintage Ambassador

Tell us a bit about your background and forward patterns. I love the elegant ’40s tea how you became Simplicity’s Vintage dresses and victory rolls, the ’50s for full skirts Ambassador? and red lips, and the ’60s for comfy and cute I graduated with a degree in Contour Fashion lazy style. Working from home, you’ll most likely four years ago, where I learned to sew find me in my pyjamas, which is why I love to lingerie, swimwear and corsets. I did try my get dressed up for my blog shoots! hand at making clothes as a hobby in my teens but it wasn’t until I started running my What vintage patterns have you been lingerie and nightwear business, My Retro making recently? Closet, that I rekindled my love My favourite vintage pattern is Simplicity’s for dressmaking. 1459 shirt dress, I’ve made one, but can’t wait to Last April I started my blog, The Crafty find time to make another. It’s everything I love Pinup as I love retro style, predominately in a sewing pattern – a collar, full skirt, pockets fashion from the ’40s through to ’60s. I made and full ’50s styling. Recently my sewing table lots of patterns in my first year and Simplicity’s has also included some vintage ’60s Butterick were some of the first sewing patterns I ever patterns, and lots of retro style dresses for made. I was asked to review a new season’s summer. retro pattern, and the opportunity of becoming Simplicity’s Vintage Ambassador came up, You’ve recently created a lovely run of step- along with the idea of creating the Stitch By by-step clips showing how to make selected Stitch videos on my YouTube channel. To have Simplicity vintage patterns - tell us a bit the opportunity to sew such a wide range of about them and to view? their vintage reproduction patterns is an honour. I’ll be sharing a helpful Stitch-By-Stitch video on the first Saturday of each month. It’s Simplicity’s 90th birthday this year – how Each video includes a handy step-by-step are you helping Simplicity to celebrate this guide on how to sew the pattern, much momentous occasion? like a sew-along. I show you each step From June until Simplicity’s official 90th to creating the finished garment. You can birthday towards the end of the year, I’ll find my YouTube channel by searching for be sewing a wide range of Simplicity’s The Crafty Pinup. vintage reproduction sewing patterns with a little extra love for my Are there any tips you can share about favourite ’50s patterns. There’ll be working with vintage style patterns? so much going on to build lots of Don’t be intimidated! Some of the styles are no sewing excitement throughout more complicated than modern patterns, so the year. I’ll be hosting there’s nothing to fear, and hopefully with my pattern giveaways, creating fabric and pattern choices along with my videos, helpful Stitch By Stitch videos guiding people will feel inspired to start sewing vintage. you through each pattern, pattern reviews for each style on my blog, and lots of snaps on Who do you admire most in the sewing my social media, as well as sharing my love for industry and why? Simplicity’s vintage patterns. I’m a huge fan of Tilly and the Buttons and Gertie Hirsch. I really admire their designs, How would you describe your everyday style? style, businesses and branding, and they spur My everyday style changes, which I think is me on to turn my own sewing dreams into reflected in my blog’s varied audience. I’ve sewn a reality. Instagram is also a huge source of an equal amount of Simplicity’s reproduction inspiration, I love following sewists on their own vintage patterns as I have their modern, fashion Contact dressmaking journeys. The Crafty Pinup thecraftypinup.co.uk

www.thepatternpages.com 39 60-minute make The ultimate hair accessory – the headwrap

We’ve noticed over the summer that hair accessories are trending. The head-wrap has been seen everywhere from designers such as Miu Miu and Gucci to high street versions. But why pay top dollars when you can make it yourself – with ease we might add!

40 www.thepatternpages.com 60 minute make Materials Place your second piece through the first loop to form a chain, and stitch closed the end on the 7 other piece.

2 strips of fabric* 12cm wide x 52cm long 2 strong elasticated hair ties 3 Sewing machine Press the fabric flat. Pins Tie the two hair ties together Chalk pencil in a knot, as shown. Secure Thread and bobbin to match With right sides together, one of the hair tie ends to Measuring tape pin side seams and using one end of the hairband, Fabric scissors a straight stitch, sew along and stitch to secure in place. Iron the long edge. We’ve used 8 a jean needle as our woven 4 fabric is quite thick. Steps to make

Fold your chosen fabric in half with the crease down the long edge. Mark two pieces that measure 12cm 1 wide x 52cm long.

9Repeat for the other side. Where can I buy *We’ve used fabric from the Tinted Denim collection by Cloud9. For your local stockist, click here Turn fabric the right way round. Press the seam flat and repeat for the 5 other piece.

Headwrap inspiration 2Cut along the Wear it over the top of your hair fold so that instead of hiding it underneath you now have Use up leftover scraps to make a two pieces – matching one for an outfit ensuring both Make in lightweight fabrics and pieces are 6 wear on the beach exactly the On one of the pieces, stitch the ends Use them as makeup headbands same size. together to form a loop.

www.thepatternpages.com 41 Red is this year’s colour for autumn so now it’s time to bring it into your sewing!

Leather look luxury The red leather look bag from Prym has class written all over it! It’s compact and practical, and perfect for your sewing equipment as well as being handy for travelling to all those wonderful workshops. It has a lid that unzips, revealing cantilever compartments inside, which are removable so you can get to your sewing tools inside. It also comes with a removable shoulder strap. £75 and available from Sew2go

Quilting edition This sleek red sewing machine is the Necchi Rosso 200. It’s perfect for those who like to quilt as well as sew. The machine comes with a six-piece quilting kit and extension table, and also features 200 stitches, 7 auto one-step buttonholes, speed limiter, automatic needle Sewing style threader, and LCD illuminated Protect your phone with a customisable display. case from Sock Monkey. This form-fitting £399 and available from case wraps the back and sides of your Hobbycraft iPhone 5C with a flexible plastic shell, while still providing access to all ports and buttons. Designed for the iPhone 5C, this lightweight case is the perfect way to show off your sewing style. £19.55 from from Zazzle Poppy floral Corded lace at poplin at £7.99 £14.99 per metre per metre Scotty dog cotton poplin at £7.99 per metre

Richly red Remnant Kings has a wide choice of fabrics for dressmakers. Three newcomers that have caught our eye include this quirky and cute Scotty dog and floral poppy cotton poplins, and gorgeous corded lace with scalloped edge. Click the fabric descriptions to buy.

42 www.thepatternpages.com Mexican mandala Part of the Travel Summer range from Korbond’s Creations range, the Mexican Twist sewing basket feature beautiful crochet mandala designs. Each box has a luxury lining with a hand pocket for storing those loose bits and bobs, as well as removable accessory trays. £32.99 (extra large basket) from Korbond

Have a heart We love the sewing wheel of extra long 5.5cm pins with pink and red heart heads. The extra length is perfect for securing multiple Red and unrentless layers of fabric together. The exclusive red tipped needle from £1.95 per pack and available Janome is especially designed for those from Higgs and Higgs with Janome sewing machines. It provides the extra strength and durability needed for all your embroidery projects and also coping with thicker fabrics. This size 14 needle has a larger eye, which helps to prevent thread breakages that can occur when working with tricky threads like metallics. £4.99 for pack of 5 from Janome

Moomin mania Add a bit of fun to your cutting with the Moomin design stainless steel scissors from Fiskars. They measure 21cm in length, and the ergonomic patented handles give extra comfort and control while cutting. The screw on the blades can be adjusted to improve cutting performance and come apart for easy cleaning. £20 and available from Royal Design

www.thepatternpages.com 43 Mexican mandala Part of the Travel Summer range from Korbond’s Creations range, the Mexican Twist sewing basket feature beautiful crochet mandala designs. Each box has a luxury lining with a hand pocket for storing those loose bits and bobs, as well as removable accessory trays. £32.99 (extra large basket) from Korbond

www.thepatternpages.com 43 Pattern Finder

Tap or Click

The Very Best Indie Sewing Patterns…

ﬁlter by Fabric Type | Garment Type | Brand

then choose a stockist to purchase from! New sewing patterns hot off the press

SALUT MA JOLIE! Another one of our absoloute favourites is Celeste from French indie company I am Patterns. It’s all about the detail with the ‘love’ talisman on the back and front heart- shaped neckline. The dress comes from the ‘I am in Africa’ collection of patterns, which are crying out to made in bold prints fabrics!

Marta skirt, Schnittchen Patterns

Celeste, I am Patterns

A-LIST SKIRT We love this wonderful A-lined skirt pattern, which includes slanted patch pockets, a centre- Betty Jean, Sew front fastening and La Di Da Vintage button facing. The PDF pattern comes in sizes READY TO ROCK! 34 - 46. Loving this versatile catsuit. It’s playful and you can make the rules! Sew in a ¾ length, cheeky shorts or add a halterneck – the choice is up to you. The pattern comes in sizes 4 - 20.

www.thepatternpages.com 45 Penny Dress, Sew Over It

SEW-EASY TO WEAR Stylish, wearable and flattering for so many body shapes, the Penny dress from Sew Over It is a wardrobe staple and available as a downloadable pattern only. Shirtdresses can often be fiddly to make, but this dress makes for a refreshingly simple sew and has no darts, zips or collar stands to contend with!

Matilda, Megan Nielsen UTILITARIAN DRESSING This modern style shirtdress from Megan Nielsen includes classic tailoring techniques such as princess seams, drop shoulders, pleated breast pockets, and an A-line skirt with roomy statement pockets, collar and stand. The pattern includes all the sizes from xs-xl.

Shift Dress, The Burnside Avid Seamstress Bibs, Sew House Seven

WORKING GIRL Burnside Bibs is a feminine take and brings the traditional overalls bang up- to-date. The pattern offers two versions with a variety of features that can be mixed up for different looks. What we like about the pattern, there’s lots of different ways to tie SHIFT SHAPERS them too! You can’t go wrong with a shift dress. This one from The Avid Seamstress is so elegant and will make the most of your shape with a fitted bodice and sleeves and flattering waist pleats at the back. Available in size 6-22 and perfect for light and medium weight fabrics.

46 www.thepatternpages.com EQS PRESENTS 3 NEW COLLECTIONS FROM RILEY BLAKE AND MICHAEL MILLER Michael Miller’s Cat’s Cradle Add the sparkle back into your step with this celestial collection of charming designs. Mix and match and make magical garments! CLICK HERE to view more of the Cat’s Cradle designs

Riley Blake’s Comfort & Joy This is this year’s Christmas collection from Riley Blake, and consists of five feature prints and three complementary co-ordinate prints. Designed by Dani Mogstad, and inspired by her children, each colour palette is a mix of traditional reds and greens and modern blacks and mint greens.

“My name is Dani, I’m a work at-home mother of two feisty red heads, who are my absolute joy and inspiration. I’ve always loved graphic design and I’m so thrilled to be working with Riley Blake to bring my designs to life in an exciting way and hope that they’ll inspire your creativity too!” To find out more about Comfort & Joy collection CLICK HERE

Riley Blake’s Blue Carolina Designed by Christopher Thompson, The Tattooed Quilter, Blue Carolina is an artistic floral collection with three colour options, each a variation of blue. Christopher is a New York City based quilt designer in the fashion industry who puts his own creative spin on style, and where colour and print is the critical foundation of every design. He loves finding the balance between print scales and mixing it with complementary or contrasting solid colours.

To see more of the Blue Carolina fun floral collection – CLICK HERE. Fabrics are all 100 per cent cotton, and 45in wide

To find a stockist near you visit the EQS website eqsuk.com or call 0116 271 0033. A free spirit Indie Boheme is one of the latest Art Gallery Fabrics designed by the talented Pat Bravo. The collection is heavy influenced by Pat’s love for faraway places and bohemian style, and is a medley of romantic and eclectic designs highlighted by colour palettes of soft pink, bleached sand, laurel green, vintage blue and burnt coral – all perfect companions for autumn. HOT For your local stockist, click here Fabrics Update on some of the latest fabrics

From the lifestyle collection

Love Liberty Liberty Art Fabrics are one of the finest quality cottons that you can buy. The cottons are soft and versatile and come with a great British heritage, and are perfect for dressmaking. Clothkits has a wide selection of Liberty fabrics including Liberty jersey, Art Nouveau sweatshirting and haberdashery too. design from seasonal Tana View the Liberty Art Fabrics at Clothkits Lawn range

48 www.thepatternpages.com Stretch jersey with Multi-coloured Fashion-focused fabrics green and blue floral & paisley Modelo Fabrics are now available in the UK. This company is peacock feather polyester satin, design, £17.95pm £7.50pm known for its fashion-conscious fabrics, and definitely knows what’s on-trend. To find out more click here

Earn your stripes Modelo jerseys have a fantastic feel, and are Oeko-tex certified so not only are they better for us but also they’re kinder to the environment. The jersey is made from 95 per cent cotton and 5 per cent Lycra, and comes in a range of colours including blends of chambray, heathered, maritime, speckled jerseys. These also include a wide selection of on-trend striped options including multi-coloured and classic black and white designs.

Photogenic prints Digital printing on fabric has come a long way in the last 10 years, the process allows for bigger, bolder and innumerable colours in the prints along with niche designs that would be too risky to print huge traditionally printed runs with. We fell in love with these two from Stone Fabrics.

NEW SHOP OPENS FOR HOME LOVERS Lighter than denim How lucky are Modelo Chambray is also superior and soft, and a lighter fabric you if you live than denim to work with and is perfect for making shirts, near Glasgow dresses and skirts. The range comes in a wide selection of 100 and love home per cent cotton in a range of classic colours. furnishings! Remnant Kings has opened its new flagship store at 150 Howard Street in Glasgow back in June.The shop boasts an experienced and knowledgable team ready to advise and inspire. The shop offers quality fabric and haberdashery sourced from around the globe with a focus on interior fabric, made to measure curtain and blinds service with more than 800 rolls of fabric available as well as many designer books and hangers. There’s also a voyage ‘shop-in-shop’ area with many of their designs by the metre and the Maison range of home accessories. Since the company’s beginnings in 1946, there has always been a passion for exceptional service, which lies at the heart of what they do. All the team are there to support and advise our customers for all their projects from measuring through to fitting and their motto is “We Make. We Measure. We Fit.” Remnant Kings dressmaking store is two minutes away from the new shop so you can visit both on the same day or you can shop online for everything on the Remnant Kings website.

www.thepatternpages.com 49 Sew the look REINVENT the sweatshirt There’s a new class of sweatshirt on the block. Sew yours with stylish stitch and quality fabrics

Sirius looks stylish Lola is a spin-off of from the front but a classic crewneck features a wonderful sweater with raglan pleated detailing sleeves, ribbed for a lace, voile or hem bands, front organza insert at the Dare to bare with neckline ‘V’ detail, back. Pop on over to Pattern 1014, with and oversized wrap I am Patterns as they different ways to wear. around pockets. The have more stylish Wear the cowl around curved seams give a sweatshirt patterns to your shoulders, neck relaxed, and feminine choose from. or as a hood – just add fit and you can make I am Patterns sumptuous fabrics! as a dress too. Simplicity Click here to find your local stockist for Victory Patterns

50 www.thepatternpages.com Take the humble sweatshirt and make it into something special – chic athleisure style has taken over!

Pattern 6519 is a mix and match separates including generous tie front dress that would make a gorgeous sweatshirt in a modern print. Simplicity

Kyoto Sweater is from Papercut Patterns’ latest Sakura collection. It’s a ruffle sleeve sweater with relaxed fit, and includes drop shoulders and hem/cuff bands. This pattern loves soft knits so choose a light- to medium-weight stretch fabric. Papercut Patterns

There’s a colour for everyone with the latest collection of fleece and terry sweatshirt fabrics from Modelo Fabrics. All you need now is a neat trim! Click here to find your local Modelo stockist and search on Fabric

www.thepatternpages.com 51 Behind the seams We tackle the invisible zip

Zip anatomy

Elias Howe invented the first zip in 1851, but it didn’t really become popular until ’30s. It was originally called the ‘hookless fastener’.

1. STOP (TOP) This is the small bracket at the top of the zip that stops the zip pull/slider from coming off the tape.

2. ZIP SLIDER OR ZIP PULL This small pull operates the zip, and makes the teeth come together to close or come apart to open.

3. TAPE Zips are probably the most common closure but This is the woven fabric strip, which also one of the most feared to insert! Choosing the teeth are secured to, and it’s this the right zip can be tricky as they come in variety that’s sewn to the garment. of colours, lengths and types. An invisible zip looks different from other zips, the teeth are on 4. TEETH the reverse side and only the zip pull can be seen This is the part of the zip that locks from the front. together and can be made from nylon or polyester.

5. STOP (BOTTOM) Most machines will Tips for choosing This is the bracket that the slider/pull either come with its rests on at the bottom of the zip. own invisible zip foot or and using a zip you will be able to buy one for your brand of A pattern will usually specify sewing machine. which length of zip you should buy. If you can’t buy one the right size, always pick one slightly longer, which you can shorten. Choose a zip that matches your fabric. When buying, make sure the zip pulls up and down smoothly – you don’t want to get home and find it doesn’t. Always close the zipper and press Janome concealed the creases out before inserting zip foot shown here If using a cotton-tape zip, wash and pre-shrink it first to avoid puckering Consider the weight of the zip with the weight of your fabric – if the zip is How to shorten a zip too heavy for the fabric, it will cause Measure the correct length from the top of the zip the garment to sag and not hang right. Mark with a pin While zip is closed and zip coil facing Applying basting tape to the right down, machine zigzag using a stitch width 5.0 and length 0.5 side of the zip can help keep your zip across the zip teeth several times to secure from moving while stitching. Cut off the unwanted zip part of the zip about 25mm below the stitching and use as instructed.

52 www.thepatternpages.com “I find invisible zips to be the easiest zips to insert. All the stitching is behind the seam, so nothing shows from the right side apart from the slider. Always insert the zip before you sew the seam, it makes this task much easier,” says Debbie

Debbie Shore shows With zip still open, how to insert an place the invisible zip in no zip teeth time at all! under the right hand groove of the zipper foot 5 and sew.

Press and pull the 1 zip closed Firstly open the zip, and uncurl the teeth, and iron lightly, and the pressing them away from the tape. zip should disappear Place the zip over the left hand piece of fabric right 6 sides together so that the slider faces the printed To sew the rest of the 2 side of the fabric, and pin seam up, fold the fabric in in place. half right sides together. Stitch the seam from the TIP: Make sure that the bottom of the hem up zip sits inline with the seam to the point where your allowance. stitches meet the zip. Move the end of the zip Pop your invisible zipper out of the way as you foot on your machine. 7 sew. And you’re done! The zip teeth will sit neatly under the left hand 3 groove of the foot. With About Debbie the zip open, sew all the I’ve always sewn and my mum had a sewing room with cupboards full of way down from the top wonderful fabrics, old biscuit tins full of buttons and threads, and drawers of the zip to the bottom. full of ribbons and lace. She’d encourage me to make dolls clothes before The machine will stop moving on to making clothes for myself. A big fan of up-cycling even back when the foot hits in ’60s, mum taught me how to repair and alter my wardrobe from the zip pull. Finish by shortening a skirt or making the flared legs of my loons even more flared by backstitching a couple of adding triangular flashes of paisley fabric to the side seams - after all it was stitches to secure. the sixties! Throughout a long career in television, sewing has always been my relaxation and pastime, which was until I wrote my first sewing book with Search Press some four years ago. Becoming an author has become quite a Flip the fabric over, and full-time job. I now have 12 books published, and three more in the pipeline! pin the remaining side of I’m also very proud to be part of the development of the first-ever sewing the zip to the opposite machine from Butterick, sold exclusively on Create and Craft. piece of fabric, again with I still sew to relax, and I like to share my ideas and projects on YouTube, right sides together. where I now have over 140,000 followers and sewers from all over the world! 4 Debbie Shore You Tube channel

www.thepatternpages.com 53 THE SERIES

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