4-H CONSTRUCTION PROJECT: leaders guide EM4595 ~ CooperativeExtension College of Agriculture Washington State University Pullman, Washington { I EM 4595- Page 1

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4-H CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION PROJECTS: LEADER'S GUIDE

Dorothy A. Ettl, Extension Clothing Specialist, and Diane S. Triplett, Home Economics Assistant

INTRODUCTION ...... 3

BASIC CONSTRUCTION PROJECTS

Sewing for Fun 1 ...... 5

Sewing for Fun 2 ...... 21

Sewing for Fun 3 ...... 33

SPECIAL INTEREST PROJECTS

Challenging Patterns ...... 43

Challenging Fabrics ...... 48

Outdoor Wear ...... 53

Western Wear ...... 58

TAILORING PROJECT ...... 61

4-H CLOTHING ACTIVITIES ...... 69 ( I EM 4595- Page 3

INTRODUCTION clothing experience in special areas. They may be taken in any order and as often as desired. 4-H clothing projects give members oppc.r­ tunities to: Challenging Patterns. More detailed designs and construction skills, design, • Make decisions. wardrobe planning. • Be creative. Challenging Fabrics. Working with different • Gain knowledge and skills. fabrics, more information, wardrobe plan­ Work and share with others. ning.

Your role as a leader is to help set the stage for Outdoor Wear. Construction techniques with these opportunities. outdoor fabrics, fitting clothing for outdoor ac­ tivities, insulation materials. 4-H clothing projects have been divided into three series: Western Wear. Construction techniques for western wear, fitting for western wear, selection Construction of western wear accessories. Needlework Explorer The TAILORING project is for members who w ish to a wool garment. This is an ad­ A separate leader's guide is available for each vanced project and members should complete series. The 4-H Clothing Construction Project the three Sewing for Fun projects and at least Leader's Guide outlines each construction proj­ two special interest projects before enrolling. ect. There are teaching suggestions and references which you may find useful. These are All projects emphasize skills rather than specific only suggestions; not a required way of doing articles of clothing. The 4-H Clothing Construc­ things. tion Skills Checklist shows the skills that may be learned in each project. The member's manuals The construction project series consists of basic give suggestions for items to make, but members construction units, special interest units, and can make any article or garment which helps tailoring. them learn the skills.

The BASIC CONSTRUCTION units are Sewing Use the skills checklist to: for Fun 1, 2, and 3. They focus on: Determine which project a member should • Tools and equipment necessary for sewing. enroll in. Members without experience should • Fabric characteristics and construction. begin with Sewing for Fun 1. Those who • Working with patterns. already know the skills for a particular level can • Basic fitting principles. enter at the next skill level. • Basic principles in color, line, and design. • Help members plan their project. The skills for each project can help members select their • Decisions for buying ready-to-wear clothing. goals for the year. Encourage members to in­ • Care of clothing. clude goals in such areas as consumer buying, clothing care, personal appearance, and SPECIAL INTEREST PROJECTS are designed to design as well as clothing construction. follow Sewing for Fun 1, 2, and 3. They offer • Review accomplishments at the end of the year. EM 4595- Page 4

4-H'ers enroll in clothing projects because they A Note to 4-H Clothing Parents, EM 4591, in­ want to sew. They want garments or articles they dicates w ays parents can help with 4-H . It can wear or use and enjoy. If leaders always ex­ reminds t of the financial help and emotional pect perfection, members may be discouraged support that is required. There is also room for and lose interest. Rather than demanding perfect you to w rite personal comments to each parent items, teach members to evaluate their own as you w ish. work. Help them see how a mistake or poor workmanship w ill look and let them decide to "rip" or not. Teach members to accept good standards and to be proud of work well done.

Promote creativity by increased know ledge. In­ t roduce a variety of sewing techniques, giving their advantages and disa dvantages for many fabric types. Then let each individual decide on the method to use for his or her project. Because there is a large variety of fa brics and finishes, the home sewer needs to experiment with different techniques. This is encouraged. Sometimes the results are not as expected. When in doubt about a method, ask yourself, "Is t here a logical reason to use this method? Does this method produce resu lts t hat meet good standards?"

An important part of 4-H is development of poise and self confidence. Help members learn this by encouraging them to give demonstrations. Give each member an opportunity t o speak in front of the group. Begin by having each give an informal mini-demonstration, such as sh owing how to a , use a gauge, or make a basting . Later members ca n ma ke a more formal, planned presentation. The 4-H Clothing Construction Skills Checklist and the list in each project manual of w hat members should learn are good sou rces of demonst ra tion topics. Also encourage members to participate in the local judging and fashion revue events.

Involve parents in your 4-H club. Begin by en­ couraging 4-H'ers to discuss their project plans with their parents. Parents can take part in 4-H and relieve you of the entire responsibility. For example, t hey can work out the details for a club tour or outing, help with transportation, have meetings in their homes, be involved in the teaching, etc. EM 4595 - Page 5

( BASIC CONSTRUCTION Suggested References Sewing for Fun 1 EM 4579 Sewing for Fun 1 (member's manual) C 0677 4-H Clothing Construction Skills This project introduces 4-H members to sewing. Checklist They learn to use the , under­ Sewing machine use and care manual stand fabric, and make simple projects. Simplicity Sewing Book EM 3838 Caring for Your Sewing Machine A firm, woven, medium-weight fabric of cotton PNW 0197 Quality Standards in Clothing Construc­ or cotton blend is best for this project. A list of tion suggested items to make is in the member's EB 0692 Metrics and Clothing manual. Members may choose from this list or EM 4237 Metrics and Clothing: A Leader's Guide make other similar items. Encourage them to start with something simple. Any item can be made which helps teach:

• Use of basic equipment. • Use of the sewing machine. Basic construction techniques . • Selection of fabric for item sewn . • Basic pressing . • Care required for the item.

To complete this project, members should be able to check off 40 of the 50 skills listed for Sew­ ing for Fun 1 in the skills checklist, C 0677. They should make at least two items for th~mself or another using those skills. Encourage members to continue to sew after completing the project requirements. The more items made, the more experience the member will gain. EM 4595- Page 6

MEMBERS SHOULD LEARN TEA CHING IDEAS

SEWING TOO LS Display sewing tools. Name each one and tell how it is used . Them ask members to Identificat ion and use of sew ing tools repeat identification and use. This can be measuring tape done with a quiz or games such as the seam gauge word scramble, word search , and cross­ word puzzles at the end of this section . needles Encourage members to make sewing boxes cushion for t heir equipment. Show examples, su ch as cigar boxes, shoe boxes, etc. shears Show and discuss left-handed sewing iron and iro ning boa rd equipment/ shears. Compare systems of measurement . Discuss advantages of the metric system. Ask for metric materials from the Cooperative Extension office.

SEWING MACHI NE Name the parts of the sewing machine and explain their function. See sewing machine Name sewing ma chine parts and f unctions crossword puzzle at the end of this sec­ Control of speed and fabric placement and tion. guiding Stitch on lined paper without thread in t he Threading the machine machine. Practice stitching guides are in­ cl uded at the end of this section. Sewing Fill ing and inserting bobbin on paper helps teach control of t he speed Stitching with thread of the machine. regulation stitch Always change the needle before sewing baste stitch on fabric because sewing on paper will dull it. stitching over pins "Thread" w ith pencil on a picture of the pivoting at corners sewing machine. stitching a shallow curve using a seam guide Ask each member to practice actual t hreading. To recognize good machine stitching Demonstrate and practice stitching with thread. Ea ch type of stitching could be a mini­ demonstration by member. Members can get more practice by machine qu ilting small items and by machine stitching applique decoration.

Show samples of good and bad stitching to teach recognition only. Parent or leader should make necessary adjustments on machine. EM 4595- Pag e 7

( MEMBERS SHOULD LEARN TEACHING IDEAS

SEWING MACHINE (continued)

Care of sewing machine Ask members to bring their sewing machine use and care books. Discu ss ca re required. how to change needle importance of cleaning lint Demonstrate good habits. Check members as they Good habits at the sewing machine work at the machine. adequate light postu re disposal of waste cleaning up

SELECTION OF PROJECT Discuss and show samples or pictures. Directions for simple projects are available in your Cooperative Purpose or use of item Extension office. Simple items, w ith or without pat­ Style terns, are recommended .

FAB RI C FACTS Introduce the difference between knits and w ovens. Show examples. In this project, have members Woven vs. knit work with firm, woven fabri cs . Fabric designs ( Show samples of stripes, plaids, prints, and solids. Fabric terms Demonstrate what is meant by matching to show difficulty in working with some designs. line lengthw ise Discuss and judge fabric grainline. Show samples crossw ise of off-grain fabric prints. Show different treatments bias of . on or off-grain fabric prints Plan a trip to a fabric store. Be sure to check ahead to see if t he store w ill provide a reliable tour or Fabric selection organize a tour yourself with permission of t he store. Show members where to find fabric information on bolt end. Explain the information given (fiber, care instructions, pre-shrunk, manufacturer, width). Discuss the best types of fabric to select for each project.

Show the area and discuss selection; thread to match fabric, , ribbon, etc. Suggest keeping 3 x 5 index card file of information about fabrics used . Include: Price per yard, fiber content, width, care, expected shrinkage, fabric finishes, where purchased, date purchased, and item made. Attach a small piece of the fabric. EM 4595-Page 8

MEMBERS SHOULD LEARN TEACHING IDEAS

FABRIC FACTS (continued)

Fabric care Explain care labels and remind members to always ask clerk for the proper care label when buying care label fabric. The care label should be sewn in each gar­ washability ment or article made. See example of permanent wrinkling care labels at the end of this section.

SEWING BASICS Have members pretreat fabric in the same way they will care for it before cutting out the item to be Pretreat fabric (preshrinking) sewn. Layout and cutting Usually fabrics are "" rather than "torn." Construction techniques Finishes applied make it difficult to tear a fabric measuring smoothly without ripples. pinning To cut on grain, pull one or two threads for a maintaining seam width guideline. trimming seams clipping corners A good method for teaching construction techni­ darts ques is to demonstrate the technique to a small reinforcing group. First, show completed example of the elastic casing technique and tell why it is done. Try to relate this machine hemming to the clothes they wear. Second, show the step­ pressing seams by-step procedure. Then ask one member to repeat final pressing your demonstration for the others. Suggest members practice on a small piece of fabric before Hand sewing using the technique on their project. threading needle Each technique could be explained in mini­ making knot demonstration by members. sewing on buttons simple hand stitches Have the members practice new skills. running stitch Explain why using a thimble is a good idea. slip stitch Demonstrate sewing on buttons. Have members practice using flat and buttons. Demonstrate other hand stitches.

STANDARDS FOR CONSTRUCTION Demonstrate the standards to look for in a good seam, hand and machine sewing. Explain why Seams these standards are important. Machine sewing Hand sewing

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MEMBERS SHOULD LEARN TEACHING IDEAS

CLOTHING CARE Show how to properly hang and/ or fold clothes after wearing. Hang up clothes Care of soiled clothes Remind members to put soiled clothes in the laun­ Mending dry, not in the drawer, etc. Sew on buttons. Repair broken seams with machine stitching.

GROOMING Invite an older 4-H member or a beautician to show how to care for nails and give tips for having nicer Hand care looking nails and hands. Cleanliness Filing nails

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PRACTICE STITCHING GUIDE EM 4595- Page 11

PRACTICE STITCHING GUIDE

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PRACTICE STITCHING GUIDE EM 4595 - Page 13

PRACTICE STITCHING GUIDE ( EM 4595- Page 14

EXAMPLES OF PERMANENT CARE LABELS MACHINE WASH WARM All textile items sold in the United States must DO NOT DRY CLEAN have a permanent care label. The home sewer should ask for a care label when the fabric is cut. Then sew it into the seam of your garment; you will always know how to care for it. The number on the label corresponds w ith the triangle on the fabric bolt.

HAND WASH MACHINE SEPARATELY WASH WARM USE COOL IRON

MACHINE WASH WARM DRY CLEAN ONLY LINE DRY

MACHINE ffi WASH WARM DRY CLEAN PILE FABRIC TUMBLE DRY METHOD ONLY REMOVE PROMPTLY

MACH INE /\ WASH WARM ~ DELICATE CYCLE WIPE WITH DAMP CLOTH TUMBLE DRY LOW ONLY USE COOL IRON EM 4595- Page 15 Sewing Puzzle #1

SEWING EQUIPMENT WORD SCRAMBLE (

Unscramble the following words which describe sewing equipment:

1. noir

2. shipcunion

3. radeth

4. limbeth

5. snip

6. deelens

7. augge

8. peat reamues

9. swengi obx ( 10. rissocss EM 4595-Page 16 Sewing Puzzle #2

FIND THE EQUIPMENT WORD SEARCH

Circle each word as you find it:

Down Across

• •

• Tape • Shears

• Measure • Sewing Box

• Sewing tools • Thread

• Scissors • Gauge

• Needles • Pins

• Iron

A p B X 0 T s C E D F y G H j

K L T A L 0 R s C H A L K M

N N 0 A p R Q V u E w z B A E C

D C F p N s s E w N G B 0 X

G u H E j K C L R 0 N M N 0

N s p X Q R s T N u V w X E y

T H M B L E s F G A u G E E G z A E B C D s E T H R E A D H

0 j A K L M 0 N 0 p 0 Q R L s

T N u s H E A R s 0 V w X y E z

A B C u D E F s G L H j K s L

E M E R y M N 0 p s Q R s T u V w p R E s s C L 0 T H X y A B z EM 4595-Page 17 Sewing Puzzle #3

SEWING TOOLS CROSSWORD PUZZLE

Insert the word that fits the pictures in the crossword below:

Across: Down:

3. 9. & 10. 1. & 8.

5. 12.

6. m 13. / 7. ~ 5.&11.~

2

4 s 5 f. 6 w 8 9

12

14

15 16 EM 4595- Page 18' Sewing Puzzle #4

SEWING MACHINE PARTS CROSSWORD PUZZLE

Name the part each number is pointing to on the sew ing machine picture and list it in t he crossword below:

3 across 4 across

2 LJ 3 I N 6 4 5 ,M A C 6 1-1

7

1) A 1? '5 EM 4595- Page 19 Sewing Puzzle #5

SEWING KNOWLEDGE MATCH-UP (

Test your sewing knowledge. Match the terms and descriptions.

a. off grain 1. Cut away excess fabric in

b. baste stitch 2. The woven edge of the fabric

C. 3. A long stitch to hold two pieces of fabric together tern- porarily

d. bias 4. The lengthwise and crosswise threads of the fabric are not at right angles

e. 5/8" seam 5. The width used for most seams

f. lengthwise 6. Diagonal direction of the fabric

g. selvage 7. The stitch used to hold two pieces of fabric together permanently

h. back stitch 8. To secure the end of a machine stitching line by going in reverse ( i. regular stitch 9. To turn the fabric with the machine needle down

j. pivot 10. The long part of the fabric running parallel to the selvage EM 4595- Page 20

SEWING FOR FUN 1

A nsw ers for Sewing Puzzles

Sewing Puzzle #1- Sewing Equipment Word Scramble

1. Iron 2. Pincushion 3. Thread 4. Thimble 5. Pins 6. Needles 7. Gauge 8. 9. Sew ing Box 10. Scissors

Sewing Puzzle #3- Sew ing Tools Crossword Puzzle

Across Down 3. Pincushion 1. & 8. Press cloth 5. Thimble 2. Shears 6. Pins 4. Scissors 7. Gauge 5. & 11. Tape measure 9. & 10 . Sewing box 12. Thread ( 13. Needle 14. Irons 15. & 16. chalk

Sewing Puzzle #4 - Sewing Machine Parts Crossword Puzzle

Across Down 2. Take up lever 1. Needle 3. Bobbin w inder 5. 4. Spool pin 6. Hand wheel 7. Tension discs

Sewing Puzzle #5-Sewing Knowledge Match-Up

a- 4 b - 3 C - 1 d- 6 e - 5 f -10 g - 2 h - 8 -7 j- 9 EM 4595- Page 21 ( BASIC CONSTRUCTION Suggested References Sewing for Fun 2 EM 4580 Sewing for Fun 2 (member's manual) This project includes selecting fabric and pat­ C 0677 4-H Clothing Construction Skills tern, developing basic sewing skills, clothing Checklist EM 4579 Sewing for Fun 1 (member's manual) care, and some information about modeling and EM 4583 Challenging Fabrics (member's grooming. manual) Sewing machine use and care manual The member's manual has a list of items than can Simplicity Sewing Book be made. Encourage members to select a simple Commercial pattern books design. Garments without set-in sleeves and col­ Coats and Clark Sewing Hints Leaflets lars are recommended. Firm, woven, medium­ PNW 0197 Quality Standards in Clothing Con­ weight fabrics of cotton or cotton blends are struction easy for beginning sewers to work with. EM 4237 Metrics and Clothing: A Leader's Guide To complete this project, members should check off 40 of the 50 skills listed for Sewing for Fun 2 in the Skills Checklist, C 0677, and make at least two different garments.

Encourage members to make additional garments after doing this. This will heip them fur­ ther develop their sewing skills. They might like ( to try:

• Loosely fitted pants, such as pajama bottoms or gym shorts. • Pants with drawstring waist . • T-shirt made of knit fabric . • Simple garment made of polyester doubleknit . • Blouse or dress with round collar.

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MEMBERS SHOULD LEARN TEACHING IDEAS

GOAL SETTING Review with each member the skill checklist from last yea r. Then go over the checklist for this year to Use of skill checklist to help plan what to do this find out what each member already knows and year what each needs to learn. Selection of a project w ithin personal abilities Discuss and show illustrat ions of patterns which would help members learn sewing skills emphasized in Sewing for Fun 2.

Have members select projects which include skills they don't know or skills they need to learn to do better. Identify skills t hat may be too difficult. Have members identify an area of personal care or clothing care to learn about and improve.

PATTERN KNOWLEDG E Ask members to bring tape measures. Divide into groups of two. Have them measure each other. Taking personal measurements Girls: bust, waist, hips, and back waist length. Determining pattern size Boys: chest, waist, and hips. Have members record t heir measurements in the project manual. Use of metric measurements Determining amount of fabric and notions needed Patterns are sized by figure development, height, and body measurements. All pattern catalogs and Check pattern fit many home sewing books have charts showing the requirements many pattern types and how to select the correct size. Use one of these charts an d show how to Pattern pieces and markings select a pattern size. General markings Check each member. Ca ution against buying any identification markings other size. (If the pattern size is carefully selected, adjustment lines few alterations will be necessary.) grainline markings Take measurements in metric and determine the cutting lines pattern size. Use EM 4237, Metrics and Clothing: a center front and back lines Leader's Guide. Construction markings Pass out pattern envelopes. Have members look at seam lines the back. Give various situations so they practice notches for matching pattern looking up amount of fabric to buy, what notions to pieces buy, and the type of fabric to buy. arrows Play a consumer sewing game such as "Play It darts Smart," the Butterick Consumer sewing game, or dots for matching seams pattern games that are included in t he back of t his section. fold lines clip lines Have members remove pattern pieces they will be gathering and easing lines using from the envelope. Show them how to lines for placement of pockets, measure the pattern. Check the measu rements and trims, etc. compare with their personal measurements. lines for or tucks ( EM 4595- Page 23

MEMBERS SHOULD LEARN TEACHING IDEAS

PATTERN KNOWLEDGE (continued)

Lay out pattern using the pattern guide Demonstrate ease requirements for body move­ ment. Show how different fabrics need different Pin and cut out garment ease allowances. More complete information on Transfer pattern markings ease is given at the end of this section.

Follow the pattern guide Pin or tape sample pattern pieces on a large piece of tagboard. Discuss what each piece is and explain the various markings. Use pattern puzzles during a meeting to practice and develop knowledge about the pattern pieces. These are included at the back of this section.

Show how to find the correct layout on the pattern guide and place pattern pieces according to the diagram. Have members do this and then check to make certain they have made no mistakes. With pattern pieces pinned on and checked, they can cut at home. You or a member could demonstrate transfer of pattern markings. Demonstrate using tailor's tacks, tailor's chalk, pins, or a and . Go over the advantages and disadvantages of each method. Show members the pattern sewing guide. Suggest they cross out the pictures or sections they won't be using. Encourage them to check each step as it is completed. Teach members to read the guide sheet completely before beginning to sew.

FABRIC FACTS Visit a fabric store, borrow remnants, or assemble fabric samples which would be good and poor Selecting suitable fabric choices for the project. Easy and difficult fabrics Talk about each fabric separately. Ask: Would this Fabric designs be a good choice? Why? Or set up a judging class Difference between knits, wovens, and non-wovens and have members give reasons . Show samples of various designs: stripes, plaids, border prints, prints, and solids. Show why match­ ing of designs improves the appearance of the gar­ ment and point out the difficulty in working w ith some designs. Find samples of knits, wovens, and non-wovens. Look at the drawings of woven and knit fabrics in Sewing for Fun I member's manual. Have members separate them and identify whether the fabric is knit, woven, or non-woven. EM 4595- Page 24

( MEMBERS SHOULD LEARN TEACHING IDEAS

FABRIC FACTS (continued)

Difference between natural and man-made fibers Assemble samples of both natural and man-made Difference between fiber, , and fabric fibers. Ask members to feel the fabric and write down what the fabric feels like. Then go over the Fabric finishes samples telling whether they are natural or man­ Label and hang tag information made. Emphasize t hat one must read labels to know fiber content. Demonstrate that there is a dif­ fiber content ference in pressing temperatures and care for care natural and man-made fibers. manufacturer's name or number pre-shrunk Have fabrics for members to ravel. Look at the residual shrinkage . Some are thick, some thin. Some are finish smooth, some rough. Untwist a yarn. The small, hairlike pieces are fibers. Fibers may be short, long, Use of ca re labels smooth, or rough. Use bolt end information, labels, and hang tags. Have members look for types of finishes on various articles of ready-to-wear. For example, sleepwear may have a flame-retardant finish or a waterproof finish may be applied to outdoor wear. Pass out different labels and hang tags. Look at the things the labels tell. Have members keep hang tags and labels from garments they purchase. Suggest a card file or box to keep them in. This information will be useful when caring for the garment. Suggest that members set up a card file with infor­ mation about fabrics they purchase. Write down the name of the fabric, fiber content, price, width, care, shrinkage, fabric finishes, where and when purchased, item made. Attach a small piece,of the fabric.

Have members ask for care labels when buying fabric and sew them into their garments. Most county fairs require that the care label be sewn in. Care la bels are required on all State 4-H Fair clothing exhibits.

NOTIONS Review with members what notions they need to choose for t heir garments and why. Encourage Use of notion information on pattern envelope demonstrations on notions at club meetings. thread Show different types of and explain its buttons purpose in garments. (A detailed explanation is in­ hooks and eyes cluded in the Challenging Fabrics manual.) trims el astic Interfacing selection EM 4595- Page 25

( MEMBERS SHOULD LEARN TEACHING IDEAS

SEWING MACHINE Use the sewing machine instruction book as a reference. Have members give demonstrations on Change needle different skills. Change the light bulb Have members make practice buttonholes using Clean machine two layers of the garment fabric and an interfacing. Use foot Let members practice using the zigzag or other special stitches. Make machine-made buttonholes or use attachment Demonstrate good tension and unbalanced tension. Make whatever tension adjustments are necessary Use the zigzag or other special stitches for seam to obtain a good stitch. Members in this skill level finishes if available need only to be able to recognize what good stitch­ Recognize a good machine stitch ing looks like.

SEWING BASICS Review pretreating. The fabric should be pretreated before cutting, using the care method that will be Pretreat fabric used when the garment is completed. Stay stitching Machine basting Members could measure the length and width of Darts the fabric, then pretreat, and measure once again . Facings This will show how much shrinkage there has been. Understitching The skills listed can be used for demonstrations at Using interfacing club meetings. ( Clipping Notching Encourage members to select sewing projects that Trimming use these skills. If the garment doesn't have all Reinforcing these features, members can learn the skills by Seam finishes practicing on small pieces of fabric. Hand-sewn Have members evaluate single techniques or fin­ Hooks, eyes, snaps ished garments as to how well the various techni­ Zippers ques meet the standards of good construction. lapped Discuss and talk about what was done well and centered what can be improved. See PNW 0197, Quality Buttons and buttonholes Standards in Clothing Construction. Kimono or raglan sleeves Tucks Have members demonstrate pressing at club Gathers meeting. Refer to member's manual. Show the Casing right and wrong way of pressing. Patch pockets Have members make a magazine or towel roll to Pressing use in pressing . The roll allows for good pressing darts techniques and is inexpensive. seams press as you sew As a leader, set an example in using correct terms. select proper iron temper­ Teach members correct terms and use them. ature Co rrect terminology

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MEMBERS SHOULD LEARN TEACHING IDEAS

YOU AND YOUR APPEARANCE Invite a beautician to come and talk about hair care. and hair styling. Hair care Good diet Talk about the Basic Four Food groups. Remind members to eat good foods, not a lot of "junk Rest and exercise foods."

Modeling and posture Invite a model or older 4-H'er to come and work with members on learning how to model. Members can gain experience by modeling in club, communi­ ty, and county 4-H fashion revues.

CLOTHING CARE Remind members to put away clean clothes in the closet or drawers. Daily care of clothes Soiled clothing goes to the laundry. Storage for shoes Demonstrations on cleaning shoes. Mending Simple repairs by hand or machine.

EVALUATION Teach members to evaluate their own work. Go over the questions at the back of the member's manual. Review the standards for quality.

COMMUNITY SERVICE Plan and conduct a pattern-a-rama to exchange or sell patterns in the community. Conduct or assist with a clothing drive for Goodwill or a " Christmas in November" sale of clothing items, etc., to benefit a worthy cause. Sell clothing in a garage sale and donate money to a local charity.

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( EASE No ease or "fabric ease" patterns are designed for use with very stretchy knits only. These fabrics have This information will help you guide members with built-in stretch, or ease, so no extra is allowed in the patttern selection and fitting. tissue pattern. Bathing suit patterns designed to stretch to fit may even have minus ease allowances. There are three types of ease: Sizing charts are given in pattern catalogs and on , Wearing comfort ease . most pattern envelopes. They indicate specific , Design ease. measurements allowed for all sizes. , No ease or "fabric ease. " Wearing comfort ease requirement charts have been Wearing comfort ease is included in the tissue pat­ included here for your use. Remember that in­ tern to allow for body movement while wearing the dividuals have different ideas of how their clothing garment. Wearing comfort ease requirements vary should fit. These charts show suggested ease allow­ with the type of garment. ances. Use the minimum allowance when working with knit fabrics. Very stretchy knits do not require any wearing comfort ease allowance. Bust Hip Upper Arm

Swimsuit 0 0 Dress 2½" 2½" 2½" Jacket 4" 4" 4½" Coat 5" 5" 5½"

Design ease is the extra fullness allowed in the pat­ tern by the designer to create a certain look. One ex­ ample is the extra width and length used for billowy sleeves. Pattern pictures may be misleading as to how you can expect the garment to fit. You can determine if there is any design ease by comparing the actual tissue pattern measurements to your personal measurements plus comfort ease requirements. EM 4595- Page 28

SHIRT, BLOUSE, OR DRESS EASE REQUIREMENTS PANTS EASE REQUIREMENTS (

Minimum Ease Minimum Ease Personal Measurements Requirements' Personal Measurements Requirements'

Bust (gals) over fullest part2 2"-3" 5.0-7.6cm Waist2 ½"-1'' 1.3-2.5cm Chest (guys) over fullest part 1" 2.5cm Hips, over fullest part2 Waist' ½"-1" 1.3-2.5cm Distance from waistline 1"-2" 2.5-5.0cm Hips, over fullest part2 Thigh, over fullest part Distance from waistline 1 ½"-2½" 3.8-6.3cm Distance from waistline 1"-2" 2.5-5.0cm Back, between shoulders 4" Crotch depth, sit on flat surface, (10.2cm) down from measure from waistline along neckbone3 ½"-1 ½" 1.3-3.Scm side hipline to flat surface3 ½"-1" 1.3-2.5cm Upper arm at fullest part, for Crotch length, front ½"-¾" 1.3-2.0cm sleeve width 1 ½"-2½" 3.8-6.3cm back ½',_¾" 1.3-2.0cm Elbow 2"-2½" 5.0-6.3cm Knee 2" 5cm Wrist 1" 2.5cm Calf 2" 5cm Neck (guys) ½" 1.3cm Instep and heel, across heel and Back waist length ¼" .65cm over instep (to determine that Front waist length, from center foot will go through pant leg) 1" 2.5cm of shoulder bver bust to waist ¼" .65cm 1For knits (except very stretchy knits) use minimum re­ 1 For knits (except very stretchy knits) use minimum re­ quirements. quirements. 2Pattern companies use the following standard allowances. 2Pattern companies use the following standard allowances. These are slightly larger than the minimum requirements: These are slightly larger than the minimum requirements: Waist-1" (2.5cm) Bust-2 ½"-3" (2.8-7.6cm) Hips-2 ½" (6.3cm) Waist-1" (2 .5 cm) 3Crotch ease depends on hip measurement: Hips-2½ " (6.3cm) If 35" (89cm) or less-1 / 2" (1.3cm) 3Back shoulder ease depends upon type of garment: For 35"-38" (89-95.5cm)-¾" (2cm) Sleeveless garment-1 / 2" ( 1.3cm) Over 38"(95.5cm)-1" (2.5cm) Garment with set-in sleeves-1" (2.5cm) Jacket or coat-1 ½" (3.8cm) EM4595-Page29 Pattern Puzzle #1

PATTERN MEASUREMENT SCRAMBLE ( Unscramble the words to find out what pattern measurements you would be taking.

ckab thengl ______( tubs

tecsh

swait

ship

theigh EM 4595- Page 30 Pattern Puzzle #2

PATTERN M ARKINGS CROSSWORD

Name the marking each number points to on the pattern picture and list it in the crossword below:

4 7 \ .....-- --- 5 3 --- p 1 ,, --- I' ~ A I \ 2 3 I \ ,, '' .,' I \ 4 • £ I \ I I 'R I ' I ' N I ' ------, •------'I .il --"I 4 M " A 5 'R

"I 6tJ (i s

7 EM 4595- Page 31 Pattern Puzzle #3

PATTERN IQ ( Name the construction symbols that are numbered on the pattern piece.

//- ~\-/ / --­-- I... _ 10 -­ I 1. 11 '\ 2. \ \ 3. \ 4. - 5. 9/ ', ,, ( ,J,'- 6. 1 - -3 7. I I 8. I I I I 9. I I - 2- I 10. I I 11. I ~ I I~ I I \ I 1 1 / t ~ I I \ 4-1 \ I f \ I • I \ 6 / I ' l / ------/,'--,--'----' ' I I ,t. A.-5 / -r ------, \- - - I - I I I EM 4595- Page 32

SEWING FOR FUN 2 (

Answers for Pattern Puzzles

Pattern Puzzle #1- Pattern Measurement Scramble

Back length Bust Chest Waist Hips Height

Pattern Puzzle #2- Pattern Markings Crossword

1. Stitching line (down) 2. Cutting line (across) 3. Grain line (down) 4. Bodice front (down) 5. (across) 6. Notch (across) 7. Fold (across)

Pattern Puzzle #3- Pattern IQ

1. Pattern margin 2. Seam allowance 5/8 inch 3. Grainline arrow 4. Dart stitching line 5. Arrows showing directional stitching 6. Alteration lines used for pattern adjustment 7. Cutting line 8. Notches used for matching pattern pieces 9. Dot for sleeve ease adjustment 10. Arrows showing directional stitching 11. Dart tapered to 1/8 inch at

• EM 4595- Page 33

BASIC CONSTRUCTION Suggested References Sewing for Fun 3 EM 4581 Sewing for Fun 3 (member's manual) C 0677 4-H Clothing Construction Skills Check­ This project exposes members to the following list areas: EM 4580 Sewing for Fun 2 (member's manual) EM 4579 Sewing for Fun 1 (member's manual) • Additional basic construction skills: Sewing machine use and care manual set-in sleeves belts Simplicity Sewing Book collars topstitching Simplicity Fuss-Free Fit Sewing Book gathers and ruffles zippers Other commercial pattern and sewing books waistbands using trims Coats & Clark Sewing Hints Leaflets yokes making pants Fabric Facts Series pockets sewing with knits EB 0563 Line in Dress • Sewing machine tension and pressure ad­ EB 0610 Pants for Women justments, attachments, and care. EB 0653 The Knit Scene PNW 0197 Quality Standards in Clothing Construc­ , Beginning wardrobe planning, related to pres- tion ent clothing and activities. PNW 0166 Removing Stains from Fabrics • Basic color and line principles of design . • Clues for good fitting. • Decision making when buying ready-to-wear clothing. ( • More about grooming and modeling. • Clothing care and laundry procedures.

To complete this project, members should be able to check off 50 of the 64 skills listed for Sew­ ing for Fun 3 in the skills checklist, C 0677, and make at least two different garments. Encourage members to try something new.

Members may make any type of garment which offers the opportunity to learn the new skills. They may make garments from the list in Sewing for Fun 2 or any of the following:

lounging and bedtime clothes such as pajamas, gowns, robes, or caftans pants or shorts knit garments such as tops, shirts, jumpers, dresses, etc. EM 4595-Page 34

MEMBERS SHOULD LEARN TEACHING IDEAS

GOAL SETTING Help members fill out the skill checklist at the beginning of the yea r. Review the skills to be lea rn­ Use skill checklist to evaluate progress and plan ed in Sewing for Fun 3. Go over the list to find out what to do this year what they already know and what they need to do Select a project better. Discuss and show illustrations of patterns which would help them learn how to do sewing skills em­ phasized in Sewing for Fun 3. Help members select projects which will include skills they don't know and/ or skills t hey need to im­ prove.

BE GINNING WARDROBE PLANNING Talk about use of clothes. Questions you might ask are: Why do you wear the outfit you have on? Do How jobs and activities relate to use of a garment you wear it any other places? Have our ideas about Inventory clothes they already have clothes for certain jobs and activities changed? Do adults and young people always agree about List w here clothes w ill be w orn clothes worn for different occasi·ons? List clot hing needs Ask members to make a list of their cl othing that fits and is wearable. Ask members to make a list of their activities and what clothes they have to wear for each activity. Help member and parent set up a list of clothing needs based on the wearable clothing list and the activity list. The additional clothing may be sewn, remodeled, or purchased. A chart of this plan kept up to date would make a good exhibit.

LINE, DESIGN, AND COLOR Discuss personal physical traits that cannot be changed and those which can be changed. Refer to Personal physical characteristics member's manual. Ask your county agent for Optical Illusion Posters and EB 0563, Line in Dress. Using a pattern book or catalog, have members select styles that are becoming for different body types and discuss the rea sons why. The member's manual shows ex­ amples of line as it relates to clothing design. EM 4595- Page 35

MEMBERS SHOULD LEARN TEACHING IDEAS

LINE, DESIGN, AND COLOR (continued)

Personal coloring Teach personal color awareness; hair, skin, and eyes. Bring colored fabric swatches to meeting. Drape around members' faces to help them select their most flattering colors. Your county agent may have color swatches you can borrow. Ask your county agent to order Color Key Kit for use at your club meeting. Another source of information is OH/SB17 Color in Clothing. (The Color Key Kit helps explain the relationship of skin undertones and personal coloring to fabric selection.) Help interested members make a color aide for use when shopping. Match skin, hair, and eyes with fabric or paper samples and mount on a cardboard strip.

FABRIC FACTS Ask county agent for information on fiber characteristics. Review the construction of fabrics. Natural, synthetic, and blended fibers Fiber burning test comparisons are possible meeting demonstrations. ( Textures Demonstrate different fabric textures with samples plain weave or drawings. twill weave satin weave Discuss characteristics of various weaves and how some weaves affect construction techniques. Use Fabric Facts publications as references.

FITTING PATTERNS AND GARMENTS Review how to select a pattern size and type. Check measuring techniques. Refer to Sewing for Pattern selection Fun 2 manual. Pattern adjustment techniques Using half-scale patterns, have members practice Fitting clues making basic adjustments, such as corrections for extra length, broad shoulders, square shoulders, Fitting during sewing small waist, etc. What are the standards of a good fit? What in­ dicates a poor fit? Have members try on garments and evaluate fit using the following points of reference: grain, line, ease, balance, and overall smoothness. Check members on fitting as they sew their project. EM 4595- Page 36

MEMBERS SHOULD LEARN TEACHING IDEAS

SEWING BASICS Demonstrate and review the standards for good construction. Teach that more than one method Belts may be acceptable if the standards are met. Collars Cuff and Members could demonstrate the sewing techniques Gathers, ruffles for each area of construction. Handstitching Pockets Use Pants for Women, EB 0610 for guidance with Seams and seam finishes measuring, adjustments, and construction of pants. Set-in sleeves Use The Knit Scene, EB 0653 or commercial sewing Stitch in the ditch books for information on fitting and construction Topstitching when sewing with knits. Trims Waistbands Demonstrate different types of knits and their uses. Sewing pants Teach "with nap" direction on knits. Sewing knits

SEWING MACHINE Demonstrate the use of attachments or built-in features. Stress that members learn to use their Attachments and features own sewing machine to the fullest. Pressure adjustments Sew with different weights of fabric to demonstrate Tension adjustments pressure variations. Cleaning machine ( Use sewing machine use and care manual for Machine needles reference. Teach member how to adjust the sewing machine top tension. Demonstrate areas of the sewing machine that should be cleaned frequently, the bobbin case for example. Show how to oil machines that are not self-oiling. Teach members to change needles often. Use the chart on selection of needles in the member's manual and explain the choice of needles for dif­ ferent fabrics.

BUYING READY-TO-WEAR Refer to the member's manual and go over the questions on buying. Ask members to judge con­ Fit struction on ready-to-wear items either borrowed Style from a store or brought from home. Review the Fabric labels, hang tags, and fiber characteristics of each Hang tags item. Color Workmanship Teach members to compare stores and brands. Price Contrast similar home-sewn items with ready-to­ wear. Remind members that time is also a factor to consider. ( EM 4595- Page 37

( MEMBERS SHOULD LEARN TEACHING IDEAS

BUYING REA DY-TO-WEA R (continued)

Accessories Go over suggestions for accessory selection. Consumer complaints Magazines or catalogs show ideas for current styles. Have members give a demonstration or plan a skit on making a consumer complaint. Ask your county agent for additional information.

CLOTHING CAR E Review storage needs for different types of clothing. Have members plan and organize storage Storage for their own clothing. Repairs Review mending techniques. Demonstrate iron-on Cleaning patches, applique, or for tears in clothing.

Discuss different types of laundry equipment. Demonstrate sorting, loading washing machine, us­ ing detergents and other laundry products. Suggest members begin to help with the laundry at home. Teach members that the fiber content determines the water temperature, the washer cycle, and the dryer time and temperature to use. Go on a field trip to the drycleaners. Show ex­ amples of clothing that should be professionally cleaned. Also show drycleaning machines and their uses.

GR OO MING Have members do a self-evaluation. Overall appearance Invite a beautician to discuss skin types and care at a meeting. Skin ca re Ask a professional model or older 4-H member to Modeling hold a practice modeling session for your club. Encourage members to participate in the local and county fashion revues.

EVA LUATION Use the State Fashion Revue scorecard as a stan­ da rd. Teach members what to look for and help them to select areas they can improve next time. EM 4595- Page 38 ( MEMBERS SHOULD LEARN TEACHING IDEAS

COMMUNITY SERVICE Make and display exhibits or posters which teach clothing, textile, or grooming topics. Topics might include: dressing safely with clothing that glows in the dark, flame retardant clothing, dressing for driv­ ing, or clothing care and stain removal. A display on clothing care and stain removal would interest people at a laundromat.

Make a scrapbook of ideas for the pediatrician's waiting room that shows self-help or growth features for children's clothes such as snaps, elastic waistbands, front or back marked, and tabs on zip­ pers. The book could show "clothes that teach" such as directional arrows, shapes, colors, words, pictures.

Make or remake clothing or accessories for needy people _or for fund raising for a worthy cause. Sew activity or promotion items for a group such as 4-H leaders' association, Jaycees, etc. Easy and quick items to make could include aprons, caps, chef hats, vests, jackets, etc. Make, adapt, mend, or repair clothing for shut-ins, senior citizens in nursing homes, handicapped per­ sons, etc. EM 4595 -Page39 Sewing Puzzle #1

CLOTHING CROSSWORDS

Fill in the appropriate w ord in the crossword below:

ACROSS DOWN 4. To make a temporary stitch 1. Vertical yarns of fabric 5. Red, yellow, blue 2. Piece of fabric sewed to and used to finish 6. Strongest method of fastening ends in raw edge machine sewing 3. Used to indicate construction details 10. Direction of fabric yarns 6. Slanting line off straight grain 11 . Type of stitch used on some hems 7. Top of sleeve 14. Difference between body measurements 8. Distance from cut edge to stitching line of and measurements of pattern pieces at a garment piece given point as provided by designer 9. Line found on both pattern and fabric 15. One who makes clothing 12. Material fold stitched to give shape 16. Gliding motion of iron 13. Piece of equipment used in hand stitching 18. V-shaped markings on pattern 17. Type of buttonhole 20. Diagram on pattern guide 19. Characteristics or forms, outlines, or 23 . Opening in garment shapes of garments 25. Edge of woven fabric 21. Machine part which holds fabric steady 26. Thin ribbon used to f inish raw edges 22. Stitch to prevent stretching 27. Up and down motion of iron 23 . Type of seam 29. Metal fasteners 24. To cut slits 31. To fold and sew down the edge of 28. To stitch 32. Inst rument used for transferring pattern 30. Equipment used in sewing markings 33. To change a pattern 1 2 3 4 - - 5 1-- ..- 6 7 8 9 10 .,___ - - - ~ 1-- 11 13 -.__ - I 14 15 16 - I - ~L - - - 17 18 19 - 20 I - 21 I------22 - 23 1--- - '24 - 25 - - 26 - 27 28 29 30 - 31 - - - - .__ - - - - 32 I 33 - - EM 4595- Page 40 Sewing Puzzle #2

SEAMS CROSSWORDS ( Identify the seam construction in each picture and fill out crossword below:

1. across 8. across 3. down

_11 \) I

'

' )

4. across 5 down

-----

7. across 2. down 6. down

(

------

4 .. 5 6

7

I 5 H {. 8 s EM 4595- Page 41

SEWING FOR FUN 3 ( ANSWERS FOR SEWING PUZZLES

Sewing Puzzle #1- Clothing Crosswords

Across Down

4. baste 1. lengthwise 5. colors 2. 6. backstitching 3. markings 10. grain 6. bias 11 . blindstitch 7. cap 14. ease 8. seam allowance 15. tailor 9. grainline 16. ironing 12. dart 18. notches 13. thimble 20. layout 17. bound 23. 19. styles 25. selvage 21. presser foot 26. tape 22. staystitch 27. pressing 23. plain 29. snaps 24. slash 31 . hem 28. sew 32. tracing wheel 30. needle 33. alter

Sewing Puzzle #2 - Seams Crosswords

1. (across) Flat 1. (down) French seam 2. (down) Edge stitched 3. (down) Plain seam 4. (across) Welt seam 5. (down) Bound 6. (down) Pinked 7. (a cross) Turned and stitched 8. (across) Overcast EM 4595- Page 42 Sewing Game

LABEL BINGO ( Each player should have a label or hangtag from a garment, the game board shown below, and five buttons or markers.

The leader will read questions about a good label, such as:

Does the label list the fiber(s)? Does the label say anything about shrinkage? Does the label say anything about a finish, such as permanent press? Does the label tell you how to care for the garment? Does the label give the name of the manufacturer or a code number? Does the label say anything about colorfastness?

If the member can answer "yes" for his or her label, he or she will place a marker on one of the let­ ters on the game board. The first person to place markers on all letters yells "LABEL" and wins the game.

Questions should be asked in a different order and new labels used each time the game is played.

GAME BOARD

L A B E L EM 4595- Page 43

( SPECIAL INTEREST PROJECTS Suggested References

Challenging Patterns EM 4582 Challenging Patterns (member's manual) This project gives members an opportunity to C 0677 4-H Clothing Construction Skills learn new construction skills using more detailed Checklist and intricate pattern designs. Other topics EM 4581 Sewing for Fun 3 (member's manual) covered include: EM 4580 Sewing for Fun 2 (member's manual) EM 4579 Sewing for Fun 1 (member's maunal) • A study of fashion. Sewing machine use and care manual Simplicity Sewing Book More information for using line, color, and Simplicity Fuss Free Fit Sewing Book design Other commercial pattern and sewing Fa ce shapes as they relate to the selection of books hairstyles and . Coats & Clark Sewing Hints Leaflets Fabric Fa cts Series • W ardrobe planning. EB 0563 Line in Dress • How to select accessories. PNW 0197 Quality Standards in Clothing Construe- tion • Principles of good fit . • How to decide when to buy or to sew.

To complete t his project , members should plan , select, and make at least one w ardrobe item. They should learn and be able to check off ten new skills for Ch allenging Patterns in the Skills Checklist, C 0677. All ten new skills do not have to be on the ga rment t hat is made. The member ca n make samples or more than one garment.

Encourage members to try something new. They may make any type of garment w ith any fabric. Suggest that they practice any new or unusual construction techniques with samples before making the actual garment. EM4595- Page44

( MEMBERS SHOULD LEARN TEACHING IDEAS

SETTING GOALS Help members fill out the Clothing Construction Skills Checklist at the beginnning of the year. Using the Skills Checklist Review the construction skills listed for this project. Selecting a project Suggest pattern styles that are within the member's expected learning capacity for the year.

EXPLORER PROJECTS Encourage members to do additional research or study in a related Explorer Project. Ideas for these are listed in the member's manual. Refer to the Leader's Guide for Clothing Explorer Projects for more ideas.

WHAT IS FASHION Use magazines or books to illustrate changes in fashion the past few centuries. Talk about reasons Changing for t his change: wealth, occupation, availability of Fashion industry materials, and other technological developments. Social rules Talk about the cycle of fashion designs. What are the current looks? Use magazines or catalogs and Clothing design types have members describe current fashion silhouettes, tailored colors, accessories, etc. casual Ask members to give examples of clothing worn dressy because of social rules. Discuss how these rules chic have changed in the past twenty years. What detailed styling changes can we anticipate in the future? contemporary Terms such as tailored indicate a type of garment. Clothing design functions Ask members to suggest design details or fabrics school wear that are used for each type. bedtime wear Discuss with members what clothing designs and formal or dressy wear fabrics are often used for different occasions and outdoor wear activities. Why? One example might be that bed­ sports wear time wear be comfortable, so fabrics used are active sports wear usually soft and not scratchy.

LINES AND DESIGNS Encourage members to select fash ions that will compliment them. Review the member's manual for Physical characteristics Sewing for Fun 3. Silhouette lines Using pictures, point out the rectangle and triangle vertical lines silhouette types. Show how the silhouette line adds horizontal lines height, adds weight or changes apparent body pro­ diagonal lines portions with optical illusions. curved lines Talk about the spaces made by the placement of lines on the body. For example: The length of a jacket in relation to the height of the person. EM 4595- Page 45

( MEMBERS SHOULD LEARN TEACHING IDEAS

LINES AND DESIGNS (continued)

Have members discuss what lines are apparent in the clothing they have on. For example: A print shirt tucked into jeans gives the illusion of a horizontal line at the waist.

COLORS Review the member's manual for Sewing for Fun 3. Continue stressing personal color awareness. Using Personal coloring fabric swatches, ask members to look for skin color Makeup undertones. Color in design Girls and women should consider their personal col­ oring when selecting and using makeup. Color aid Contrasting colors in an outfit give the illusion of lines. Ask members to find examples in magazines or catalogs. Go over color and line examples given in the member's manual to show how design can be used to emphasize good features. Talk about building on the positive, rather than hiding the negative. Help members make a color aid for use when shop­ ping. They may have done this in Sewing for Fun 3. Match skin, hair, and eyes with fabric or paper samples and mount on a cardboard strip.

WARDROBE PLANNING Ask members to work with their parents and evaluate their existing wardrobe. The no longer Taking inventory wearables should be recycled. The almost wearables wearables can be cleaned, repaired, or remodeled almost wearables and counted as wearables. no longer wearables Record t he wearables on the chart in the member's Using a plan chart manual. Ask the member and parent to use this in­ format ion to determine w hat the member's clothing Planning clothing needs needs are. Help members to learn how to select basic styles distinguish needs f rom wants. work with one or two basic colors Use t he guidelines listed and explain how each can use coordinates help to extend a wardrobe. select accessories to go w ith several outfits Working with magazines or catalogs, have use novelty or high fashion members set up different wardrobe plans. One items sparingly wardrobe might be for a limited budget; one for a keep clothing care in mind casual lifestyle; one for a person who entertains for­ mally, etc. Keeping the wardrobe plan up to date Suggest that members review their wardrobe plan chart regularly. EM 4595- Page 46

MEMBERS SHOULD LEARN TEACHING IDEAS

SEWING BASICS Review the standards of quality discussed in Sew­ ing for Fun 1, 2, and 3 and PNW 0197,Oua/ity Stan­ Standard s of quality dards in Clothing Construction. Construction techniques Usually more than one technique can be used for a particular construction area. Encourage members to Fitting try more than one and then determine which grain method works best for them and the fabric being line used. ease Show pattern envelopes that picture high waist or balance drop shoulder designs. Ask members to look for overall smoothness other pictures that indicate how the designer wants the garment to fit. Encourage members to "fit as you sew." Refer to the member's manual and go over the fit­ ting points listed.

SELECTING ACCESSORIES Ask members to count and name the accessories they have on. Include jewelry, belts, hose, shoes, etc. Use the questions in the member's manual and lead a discussion on selection .

TO BUY OR SEW? Use the member's manual to start a discussion about whether a clothing need should be home­ sewn or purchased as ready-to-wear. Time, energy, creativity, ability and money are per­ sonal resources that must be considered. Help members and parents evaluate their resources and clothing needs with these in mind.

EVALUATION Use the State Fashion Revue scorecard as a stan­ dard. Teach members what to look for and help them to select areas they can improve next time.

COMMUNITY SERVICE Plan and conduct or assist with a fashion show for a group such as Lion's Club, Business and Profes­ sional Women, Senior Citizens, etc. or for the general public using ready made, recycled, or home-sewn clothing.

Conduct, assist with, or present a program on a clothing-related topic (fashion, recycling, grooming, accessories, etc.) to a community organization or at a workshop, seminar, or clinic. ( ,, EM 4595- Page 47

MEMBERS SHOULD LEARN TEACHING IDEAS

COMMUNITY SERVI CE (continued)

Develop short radio public service announcements or news releases on sel ecting fabrics, sewing tips, care of clothing, fashion tips, etc. Take older adults or handicapped persons shopping for clothing or accessories. EM 4595- Page 48

SPECIAL INTEREST PROJECTS Suggested References Challenging Fabrics EM 4583 Challenging Fabrics (member's manual) C 0677 4-H Clothing Construction Skills Check­ This project allows members to work with new list and different fabrics. Areas of study include: EM 4582 Challenging Patterns (member's manual) • Fiber content and charc!cteristics of the fabric. EM 4581 Sewing for Fun 3 (member's manual) • Finishes applied to the fabric. EM 4580 Sewing for Fun 2 (member's man ual) EM 4579 Sewing for Fun 1 (member's manual) • Su itable uses for the fabric. Sewing machine use and care manual • Care requirements for the fabric. Simplicity Sewing Book Coats & Clark Sewing Hints Leaflets • Variations in quality of the fabric. Other commercial pattern, notion, and • Advantages and disadvantages of the fabric. se)IVing company books • Special construction techniques required for EM 4596 Fabric Facts: Corduroy the fabric. EM 4597 Fabric Facts: Denim EM 4598 Fabric Facts: Fake Fur EM 4599 Fabric Facts: Leather and Suede The Challenging Fabrics project also gives EM 4600 Fabric Facts: Lightweight Knits members an opportunity to learn how to: EM 4601 Fabric Facts: Outdoor Nylons EM 4602 Fabric Facts: Quilted Fabrics , Select a fabric for a specific design or pattern. EM 4603 Fabric Facts: Furs • Select a pattern for a specific fabric. EM 4604 Fabric Facts: Sheers and Laces EM 4605 Fabric Facts: Stretch Terry, Stretch • Select the appropriate interfacing. Velour, and Sweater Knits Plan their wardrobe using a chart in the EM 4606 Fabric Facts: Synthetic Suede manual. EM 4607 Fabric Facts: Velvet and Velveteen EM 4608 Fabric Facts: Vinyl To complete this project, members should study PNW 0187 Sewing with Stripes, Checks, and and work with two new fabrics from those listed Plaids for Challenging Fabrics in the Skills Checklist, C PNW 0192 lnterfacings 0677. They should plan, select, and make one PNW 0197 Quality Standards in Clothing Construc­ tion wardrobe item using one of the new fabrics for all or part of the garment. Both fabrics can be made into garments or the second fabric may be studied by planning a purchase considering selection factors or by testing construction techniques on samples of the fabric.

Encourage members to work with fabrics they have not used before. Suggest that they practice any new or unusual construction techniques with samples before making the actual garment. EM 4595-Page49

(.

MEMBERS SHOULD LEARN TEACHING IDEAS

GOAL SETTING Help members fill out the Clothing Construction Skills Checklist at the beginning of the year. Review Using the Skills Checklist the fabrics listed on the checklist for this year. Selecting a project Suggest fabrics and pattern styles that are within Trying something new the member's learning capacity for the year. Suggest that member and parent or you go tb a fabric store and look at the variety of fabrics available for use.

EXPLORER PROJECTS Encourage members to do additional research or study in a related Explorer project. Ideas for these are listed in the member's manual. Refer to the Leaders' Guide for Clothing Explorer Projects for more ideas.

FABRIC SELECTION Talk with member and parent about their activities. Is the fabric appropriate for the type of activity? For Consider activities example: A garment worn for active sports should Consider design be comfortable, allow freedom of movement, and be easy to care for because of frequent laundering. I' Evaluate fabric before purchase If a pattern has been selected first, help member Consider yardage requirements evaluate its lines and design. ls it tailored, casual, or dressy? Is it simple or complex? Use this informa­ tion w hen suggesting fabrics. Using clothing examples or pictures in magazines or catalogs, ask members to point out and discuss good and bad fabric and design combinations. One poor example might be a garment with a lot of de­ tailed stitching that is made out of a busy print fabric. Ask members to touch and inspect the fabric before it is cut. Review information that is on hangtags and the bolt end.

More fabric may be necessary when using a napped, textured, or designed fabric. Suggest that pattern alterations be made and a trial layout used to determine accurate yardage re­ quirements. This is very important with unusual or expensive fabrics because even 1 /8 yard difference can result in a savings. EM 4595- Page 50

MEMBERS SHOULD LEARN TEACHING IDEAS

FABRIC SELECTION (continued)

Ask members to compare similar fabrics purchased in different stores. Are there differences in quality as well as price? For example: Gabardine is available in different weights; does this affect the quality or use of the fabric?

PATTERN SELECTION If members select the fabric first, point out things to consider when choosing the pattern. Evaluate the type of fabric; is it simple or complex in design? Is it a tailored or dressy fabric? A re its care re­ quirements compatible with the type of garment planned? For example: Bedtime wear should be easy to launder.

Use the pattern envelop as a guide when determin­ ing if a fabric is suitable for that design. Ask members to look at ready-to-wear for examples of clothing made in the fabric they have selected. Review information in the Sewing for Fun 3 and Challenging Patterns member's manuals to help determine which designs will compliment body lines.

FABRIC FACTS Ask members to write down hangtag and bolt end information in sewing card file. Review Fiber content and characteristics characteristics of specific fibers . Bu rning test Finishes applied demonstrations could be made at a meeting.

Fabric Facts publications Ask your county agent for a reference on fabric finishes. Ask members to look at ready-to-wear hangtags for information about finishes. Bolt ends of the fabric should indicate what finishes are ap­ plied.

Refer to Fabric Facts Series, EM 4596 through 4608, for specific information about the fabric being studied. Commercial sewing books also have infor­ mation about specific fabrics and techniques.

SELECTING INTERFACING Refer to /nterfacings, PNW 0192. Types samples of each type or go to a fabric store with members to teach recognition . sew in woven nonwoven fusible ( woven nonwoven knit EM 4595- Page 51

( MEMBERS SHOULD LEARN TEACHING IDEAS

SELECTING INTERFACING (continued)

Uses for interfacing Show examples of areas that have been interfaced on garments. Ask members to point out interfaced collars areas on the garments they have on. necklines Interfacing uses and selection depend on the cuffs weight of the fashion fabric and the look and shap­ belts ing desired in the garment. waistbands Woven interfacing should be pretreated to control under buttonholes and opening edges shrinkage. See member's manual. pockets flaps Members could give demonstrations on the use and tabs application for specific and fashion welts fabrics. hems jacket shoulder back plackets vent fronts Application

SEWING BASICS Recommend that fabric be pretreated using the la undry or cleaning method that will be used when Pretreating fabric the garment is completed. Alterations Help members with pattern alterations before the Pressing fabric is cut. It may be wise to make a muslin or Fitting practice garment out of inexpensive fabric to ch eck t he fit. This is a good idea when working w ith ex­ grain pensive fabric or a detailed design. line ease Have members test samples of their fashion fabric balance to determine the correct pressing temperature. This overall smoothness will also help them decide if pressure or steam damages the fabric. Layout, cutting, and marking Encourage members to "fit as you sew." Construction techniques Refer to the Challenging Patterns member's manual an d go over the fitting points.

The member's manual gives a few pointers on layout, cutting, and marking that may be useful to review. Have members use references that apply to their fabric such as Fabric Facts Series, EM 4596-4608, or commercial sewing books. Usually more than one technique can be used for a particular construction area. Encourage members to try more than one an d then determine which method works best for them and the fabric being used . EM 4595- Page 52 ( MEMBERS SHOULD LEARN TEACHING IDEAS

SEWING BASICS (continued)

Standards of quality Review t he standards of quality discussed in Sew­ ing for Fun 1, 2, and 3 and PNW 0197, Quality stan­ dards in Clothing Construction, as a guide when evaluating construction techniques.

WARDROBE PLANNING Ask members to work with their parents and evaluate their existing wardrobe. The no longer Inventory wearables should be recycled. The almost wearables wearables can be cleaned, repaired, or remodeled almost wearables and counted as wearables. no longer wearables Record the wearables on the chart. Ask the Using a plan chart member and parent to use this information to deter­ mine the member's clothing needs. Help members Planning clothing needs distinguish needs from wants. select basic styles Use the guidelines listed and explain how each can work with one or two basic colors help to extend a wardrobe. use coordinates select accessories to go with Working with magazines or catalogs, have several outfits members set up different wardrobe plans. One use novelty or high fashion items wardrobe might be for a limited budget; one for a ( sparingly sports or casual lifestyle; one for a person who keep clothing care in mind entertains formally, etc. Keeping the plan up to date Suggest that members review their wardrobe plan chart regularly.

EVALUATION Use the State Fashion Revue scorecard as a stan­ dard. Teach members what to look for and help them select areas they can improve next time.

COMMUNITY SERVICE The community service ideas in the Challenging Patterns teaching chart can be used for this project also.

Your club or members may be able to assist with fiber-related contests such as the Make It Yourself with Wool contest.

( EM 4595- Page 53

( SPECIAL INTEREST PROJECTS Suggested References Outdoor Wear EM 4584 Outdoor Wear (member's manual) This project allows members to develop and use C 0677 4-H Clothing Construction Skills Check­ construction skills while making items for the list EM 4581 Sewing for Fun 3 (member's manual) outdoors. Teaching areas include: EM 4580 Sewing for Fun 2 (member's manual) EM 4579 Sewing for Fun 1 (member's manual) • Fiber content and characteristics of outdoor Sewing machine use and care manual fabrics. Simplicity Sewing Book Selection and use of insulators. Coats and Clark Sewing Hints Leaflets Other commercial pattern and sewing • Selection and use of commercial outdoor wear books kits. EM 4601 Fabric Facts: Outdoor Nylons • Sewing machine adjustments. EM 4603 Fabric Facts: Furs • Construction techniques. EM 4598 Fabric Facts: Fake Fur EM 4602 Fabric Facts: Quilted Fabrics • Consumer information. EM 4608 Fabric Facts: Vinyl • Care of outdoor wear and equipment. PNW 0197 Quality Standards in Clothing Construc­ tion • Health and safety tips for outdoor activities.

To complete this project, members should make at least two small or one large item or article of clothing for outdoor use. They should learn and be able to check off ten new skills for Outdoor Wear from the Skills Checklist, C 0677.

Members may use kits or purchase fabrics, in­ sulators, and notions separately. If the member is inexperienced with outdoor fabrics and in­ sulators, encourage him or her to begin with a simple item from the list in the member's booklet. This project can be repeated by members as often as desired. EM 4595-Page 54

Outdoor Wear and Equipment Kit These companies can answer questions about their Manufacturers kits and about fabrics and insulators for construction. Local outdoor supply businesses can also give infor­ Altra, Inc. mation about outdoor wear. 5441 Central Avenue Boulder, CO 80301 Calico Kits 1275 Sherman Drive Longmont, CO 80501 Country Ways, Inc. 3500 Hwy 101, South Minnetonka, MN 55343 Daisy Kingdom 321 NW Glisan Portland, OR 97209 Donner Designs P.O . Box 7217 Reno, NV 95810 Eastern Mountain Sports Jose Farm Road Petterborough, NH 03458 Frostline, Inc. Frostline Circle Denver, CO 80241 Green Pepper 941 Olive Street Eugene, OR 97401 Holubar Box 7 Boulder, CO 80302 Mountain Adventure Kits P.O. Box 571 Whittier, CA 90608 Plain Brown Wrapper 1150 West Virginia Avenue Denver, CO 80223 Standard Fabrics, Inc. 700 Washington Avenue North Minneapolis, MN 55401 Sundown Kits Box 1023 Burnsville, MN 55337 Timberline East, Inc. 144 Moody Street Waltham, MA 02154 EM 4595- Page 55

MEMBERS SHOULD LEARN TEACHING IDEAS

GOAL SETTING Help members fill out the Clothing Construction Skills Checklist at the start of the year. Review the Using the skills checklist skills listed for this project. Selecting a project Suggest kits or pattern styles that are w ithin the member's expected learning capacity for the yea r.

EXPLORER PROJECTS Encourage members to do additional work in a related Explorer Project. Some ideas are listed in the member's booklet. Refer to the Leader's Guide for Clothing Explorer Projects for more ideas.

FABRIC FACTS Display samples of fabrics at meeting. Ask members to look at ready-to-wear garments in the Fashion fabrics stores to observe the type of garments made from outdoor nylon fabric different fabrics. wool fabric Discuss characteristics of fabrics that make them real fur desirable for outdoor use. fake fur quilted fabrics Refer to Fabric Facts Series for specific information vinyl about these fabrics. nylon/rubber bonded fabric inserts Show samples of the insulators. Review advantages other fabrics and disadvantages of each . Consider expense, life expectancy, care, ease in construction. Insulators Notions are used for practical and decorative pur­ down polyester battings poses. Teach members to think about function, weight, color and care requirements when selecting Dupont Hollofil Celanese Polarguard notions. Eastman Kadel Needlepunch batting 3M Thinsulate laminates Notions and trims

BUY OR SEW? Review questions in the member's booklet. Time, energy, creativity, ability, and money are personal resources that must be considered. Help members and parents evaluate their resources and clothing needs with these in mind.

USING A KIT The member's booklet lists points to consider. Review them. Look at kit catalogs to see what types of designs are available. EM 4595- Page 56

MEMBERS SHOULD LEARN TEACHING IDEAS

USING A KIT (continued)

Follow measuring directions given in each catalog. The directions may vary for different manufac­ turers.

PURCHASING SUPPLIES SEPARATELY Look for supplies and patterns in local fabric stores. Some kit catalogs and outdoor equipment stores sell supplies and fabrics separately. Get fabric and insulator ideas by looking at ready-to-wear.

SEWING MACHINE ADJUSTMENTS Have members always test the sewing machine stit­ ching for each project. Check tension, stitch length, Use a new needle and presser foot pressure for even feeding. Make test seam Use longer stitch

SEWING BASICS Fabrics in kits are ready for use. Follow information given on care labels when supplies are purchased Pretreating fabrics and notions separately. Searing nylon fabric Zippers Demonstrate how to sear. Show what happens if Topstiching nylon catches fire on a scrap of fabric. Machine quilting Review the standards of quality discussed in earlier Pressing member's booklets and use PNW 0197, Quality Standards in Clothing Construction.

Have members test samples of fabric to determine pressing temperature. If the outdoor fabrics and in­ sulators are damaged by steam, heat, or pressure, finger press.

EQUIPMENT SELECTION If members have backpacks, ask them to display and discuss fit and use. Go over the different types Backpack available. A trip to an outdoor sports store will suits planned weight teach what is available. and purpose durable fabric Use pictures from catalogs or look in a sporting quality of constuction goods store at the different types of sleeping bags. individual fit Show members the difference in construction, Sleeping bag comparing the types of insulators and compart­ ments. Some designs are warmer and less prone to design cold spots. fabric insulator quality of construction EM 4595- Page 57

MEMBERS SHOULD LEARN TEACHING IDEAS

EQUIPMENT SELECTION (continued)

Tent Use pictures or compare tents at a sporting goods store. fabric and finishes size design quality of construction

CARE FOR OUTDOOR WEAR Members could demonstrate how to clean garments with different insulators. Cleaning Compare storage methods; show why some are in­ Storage correct. Mending Demonstrate how to patch tears effectively. Show why insulated garments must be mended as soon as possible.

HEALTH AND SAFETY Have members investigate health and safety needs for outdoor activities that they participate in. Have them share what they learn and the resources they find at a project meeting, in a demonstration, or in an exhibit. Have speakers at club meetings talk about hypothermia, frostbite, heat exhaustion, etc. Have members do a skit on health and safety for outdoor activities for a club meeting.

HOW DO YOU RATE? Use PNW 0197 Quality Standards in Clothing Con­ struction as a guide for evaluating the finished pro­ ducts.

COMMUNITY SERVICE Plan or suggest a local "outdoor fair" or "outdoor workshop" featuring displays or programs on clothing, equipment, foods, and activities for the outdoors. This could be a joint effort with members in other projects and local stores. This could also be a part of a local "Ski Swap" event. Other ideas are presented in the Challenging Pat­ terns teaching outline. EM 4595- Page 58

SPECIAL INTEREST PROJECTS Suggested References Western Wear EM 4585 Western Wear (member's manual) C 0677 4-H Clothing Construction Skills Check­ This project allows members to learn construc­ list tion skills while sewing western wear. Teaching EM 4581 Sewing for Fun 3 (member's manual) areas include: EM 4580 Sewing for Fun 2 (member's manual) EM 4579 Sewing for Fun 1 (member's manual) • Fabrics used. Sewing machine use and care manual • Design details and construction. Simplicity Sewing Book PNW 0197 Quality Standards in Clothing Construc­ • Fitting considerations. tion • Selection and care of accessories. Fabric Facts Series

To complete this project, members should make Sources of Western Patterns at least two items or articles of clothing that will Butterick counter pattern catalog be worn as western attire or used in western ac­ tivities. They should work with at least one new Kwik-Sew counter pattern catalog fabric. They should learn and be able to check off McCalls counter pattern catalog ten of the construction skills and one of the fit­ Simplicity counter pattern catalog ting skills listed for Western Wear in the Clothing Authentic Patterns Construction Skills Checklist, C 0677. Box 4500 Fort Worth, TX 76106 As a leader, you may want to encourage Country Carriage Originals members enrolled in a horse or other livestock ( Box 675 project to take the Western Wear project. Grand Forks, ND 58201 Members can use their knowledge of animals Lola Gentry Originals and showmanship as they learn more about Box 97 Western Wear. Dell City, TX 79837 Jean Hardy Patterns 2151 La Cuesta Drive Santa Ana, CA 92705 Riding Togs Box 1493 Boulder, CO 80302

./ EM 4595- Page 59

MEMBERS SHOULD LEARN TEACHING IDEAS

GOAL SETTING Help members fill out the Clothing Construction Skills Checklist at the start of the year. Review the Using the Skills Checklist skills listed for this project. Selecting a project Suggest items or clothing that are within the member's expected learning capacity for the year. Patterns and directions for western horse ac­ cessories such as blankets, etc. are available at the Extension office. They may be good projects to begin with.

EXPLORER PROJECTS Encourage members to do additional work in a related Explorer project. Some ideas are in the member's booklet. Refer to the Leader's Guide for Explorer projects for more ideas.

WESTERN WEAR DESIGNS Ask members to make a list of people they know who wear western clothing. What is their profes­ Western wear appeal sion? Are they active participants or spectators? Planning a western wardrobe Look at western catalogs or go to a western wear retail store to look at the variety of garments used in a western wardrobe. Ask members to list the activities or occasions they will wear western clothing. This will help them plan the type of clothing they need.

FABRIC FACTS The use of the garment will determine which fabric should be used. Display or ask members to suggest Fabric requirements clothing items and different fabrics that can be used durable for these items. For example: velvet for parade comfortable vest; demin for work pants. easy care protection elegant for special occasions

FITTING FACTS Have members record body measurements, then compare measurements to actual pattern Taking body measurements measurements. General fitting standards Review fitting standards in Sewing for Fun 3 and grain Challenging Patterns. line ease balance overall smoothness EM 4595- Page 60 ( MEMBERS SHOULD LEARN TEACHING IDEAS

FITTING FACTS (continued)

Clothing for riding has additional requirements Ask members to do vigorous exercises such as bending and stretching to illustrate the fit needed trim fit for comfort in riding. longer pants longer sleeves

SEWING BASICS Use the standards discussed in Sewing for Fun 1, 2, and 3 and PNW 0197, Quality Standards in Standards of quality Clothing Construction as a guide when evaluating construction techniques.

SELECTING ACCESSORIES Look at different hat crown shapes and brim creases. Suggest a trip to a western clothing store Hats to try on different style hats. Encourage members size to select hats that compliment rather than hide their crown shape faces. brim crease style fiber Have a member give a demonstration on cleaning hat band and storing a western hat. cleaning and storing hats Discuss boot shape and style variations. Boots Demonstrate how to clean and condition boots. size toe shape List or display other accessories worn with western top shape clothing. Check a catalog or store for ideas. Discuss heel shape the suitability of specific accessories for different care occasions. Other accessories gloves neckwear belts jewelry

COMMUNITY SERVICE Plan activities or displays in conjuction with a local fair, rodeo, or other western event. Examples: A western fashion revue (ready-to-wear included), a hat display, or a historical display showing western clothing from the past. EM 4595- Page 61

( TAILORING Suggested References

This project is designed for members who want EM 4586 Tailoring (member's manual) C 0677 4-H Clothing Construction Skills Check­ to work with wool. They should have completed list the basic construction skills in Sewing for Fun 1, EM 4583 Challenging Fabrics (member's manual) 2, and 3 and at least two Special Interest Pro­ EM 4582 Challenging Patterns (member's jects. manual) Sewing machine use and care manual Topics covered in Tailoring include: Coats & Clark, Inc. Custom and Fusible Tailoring. (Stitch in Time Teacher Leaflet) Coats & Clark, Inc. Menswear I, Sewing Perfect • Characteristics of a tailored garment. Pants. (Stitch in Time Teacher Leaflet) , Pattern selection and fitting techniques. Landry, Lenore L., and Emma M. Jordre, Creating a Tailored Garment. Madison, Wisconsin, Ameri­ • Wool fabric facts. can Printing & Publ., Inc., 1972 , Fabric and notion selection for the different Palmer, Pati, and Pletsch, Susan . Mother Pletsch's layers of a tailored garment. Painless Sewing. Portland, Oregon, Metropolitan Printing Co., 1977 • Construction skills used for different types of Palmer, Pati and Pletsch, Susan . Tailoring. Portland, tailoring. Oregon, Metropolitan Printing Co., 1977 , Pressing equipment and skills used in tailoring. Company. Simply Tailoring , Care and storage requirements for tailored garments.

To complete this project, members should learn ten new skills from those listed for Tailoring in the Skills Checklist, C 0677.

They should plan, select, and make one wool wardrobe item that will include some of the new tailoring construction skills. All ten skills do not have to be on the garment that is made. The other skills can be on additional garments or on practice samples of wool fabric.

Members should select a wool or wool blend woven or knit fabric as the fashion fabric for their garment. Wool is recommended because of its ability to hold a molded shape as well as for its durability, resilience, and warmth. If members want to work with a fabric other then wool have them enroll in the Challenging Fabrics project.

Encourage members to try new construction techniques on samples before making the actual garment. EM 4595- Page 62

MEMBERS SHOULD LEARN TEACHING IDEAS

GOAL SETTING Help members fill out the Clothing Construction Skills Checklist at the beginning of the year. Review Using the Skills Checklist the tailoring skills listed on the checklist. Selecting a project Suggest pattern styles and wool fabric types that are within the member's expected learning capacity for the year.

EXPLORER PROJECTS Encourage members to do additional research or study in a related Explorer project. Ideas are includ­ ed in the member's manual and the Leader's Guide for Clothing Explorer Projects.

WOOL FABRIC FACTS Review Wool Products Labeling Act. Ask members to identify garments made from each type of wool Fibers fiber. virgin wool Discuss wool yarns. Use information in the recycled wool member's manual or other reference source. Yarns Go to a fabric store with members and look for the worsteds different types of wool fabric . woolens Use samples of fabric or garments to help members Fabrics identify different fabric types. boucle Ask members to suggest uses for the different challis types of fabric. crepe flannel Use the information in the member's manual on the fleece advantages and limitations of wool; demonstrate gabardine some of the different points. serge Show members the symbols for 100% wool and tweed wool blends. felt doubleknit Have members look at hangtags on ready-to-wear singleknit garments for these marks. Advantages and limitations of wool Wool marks

TAILORING STANDARDS Review standards listed in the member's manual. Use demonstrations or garment examples to il­ lustrate specific standards.

TAILORING METHODS Help members recognize different tailoring methods and the construction techniques used for each. Ex­ Custom amine techniques that have been used in ready-to­ wear clothing. Contemporary EM 4595- Page 63

( MEMBERS SHOULD LEARN TEACHING IDEAS

SELECTING INTERFACING Review the unit on interfacing in Challenging Fabrics.

Selection depends upon tailoring method being used. Use samples to demonstrate different types of interfacing and their use in tailoring.

SELECTING LININGS Ask members to discuss what a is used for. Consider fiber content, color, weave, etc. Interlin­ Lining ing is added for warmth. Show examples in ready­ Interlining to-wear coats. Underlining is used to support the Underlining fashion fabric.

SELECTING NOTIONS Ask members to observe the variety of notions available in fabric stores. Discuss selection Stay tape as related to style, color, size, and proportion to the Weights garment and member. Buttons Shoulder pads

FITTING Consider making a muslin or trial garment using in­ expensive fabric to check the fit before using the Trial garment wool fabric. Fitting standards Review the fitting points listed in the member's grain manual. line Check fitting by starting at the top and working ease down. Shoulders, neckline, and collar alterations af­ balance fect all other body fitting points. overall smoothness Do not overfit!

PRETREATING FABRIC AND NOTIONS Demonstrate London shrink method. Completely wet a cotton sheet. Enclose it around the wool so London shrunk method for wool the wet sheet surrounds both sides of the fabric. Drycleaner Then roll the sheet and fabric like a jelly roll in 10" folds. Let dry.

SEWING BASICS Remind members to make allowances for turn of cloth and other tailoring techniques when cutting. Cutting

turn of cloth allowance ease in lining EM 4595- Page 64

MEMBERS SHOULD LEARN TEACHING IDEAS

SEWING BASICS (continued)

Other techniques Discuss and use demonstrations to teach the tailor­ ing techniques such as marking, etc. marking eliminating bulk Review the standards of quality listed in the shoulder pads member's manual and PNW 0197, Quality Stan­ sleeve headings dards in Clothing Construction. buttonholes keyhole bound buttonholes attaching buttons and underbuttons Standards of quality

PRESSING BASICS Demonstrate good pressing techniques. Good techniques Discuss why each piece of pressing equipment is needed. Pressing tools Instructions are included in the back of this section tailor's ham for making some of the pressing equipment. seam roll press cloth pounding block or clapper point presser ( press mitt needle board

WOOL CLOTHING CARE Discuss short and long term storage requirements for wool clothing.

EVALUATION Use the State Fashion Revue scorecard as a stan­ dard. Ask members to evaluate themselves.

COMMUNITY SERVICE See the list of community service ideas in the Sew­ ing for Fun 3 and Challenging Patterns teaching charts. EM 4595- Page 65

PRESSING TOOLS (

Tailor's Ham

The tailor's ham is used to press darts, collars, bustlines, and other curved areas. To make a tailor's ham:

Cut two pieces of fabric-one cotton twill or closely woven fabric, and one wool- in the shape and size shown at right. ----, ' ' ' \ Use a 1 /2" seam to sew the two pieces \ together; leave a 3" opening on the long side I for stuffing. \ I \ 6'" / // \, ~ / ' ..... / Clip seam, press open, and turn right side out. .... / ...... _------

Stuff very tightly with dry sawdust, clean sand, wool scraps cut into small pieces, raveled wool sweaters, wool batting, or kapok.

Use small overhand stitches to close edges of opening.

The ham should be stuffed hard enough so it will not dent when you press your finger against it.

cotton

wool EM 4595- Page 66

Seam Roll

The seam roll is a long, narrow cushion which provides an area to press open seams without leaving an imprint on the fabric. It can be made by padding and covering a tightly rolled magazine. Use about 1 / 4" (6mm) padding, have the edges meet and fasten by hand. Cover with wool or heavy cotton. Another method would be to cover a rolling pin with handles removed. Dowels or half­ round lumber pieces may be available at a lumber store. They can be used when padded.

(

Pounding Block

A pounding block must weigh about 2 pounds. It is of hardwood with a finished size 1 3/4" (4.5cm) thick, 3" (7.5cm) wide, and 10" (25cm) long. The block is ea sier to use if gripping grooves are shaped into the sides. Smooth and sand the entire block. Rub with a smooth hardwood piece for extra burnishing. Do not varnish.

k------J ------10"------~ ( I' EM 4595 - Page 67

Point Presser

Make the point presser of two pieces of wood. Cutthe base from a board 3/ 4" by 5" by 11 1/ 2" (2cm by 12.5cm by 29cm). Pine dr fir will do. Cutthe point Piece from a hardwood board 3/ 4" by 4 1/ 2" by 11 1/ 2" (2cm by 11.5cm by 29 cm). Birch or maple works well. The top of the point section is a straight line. Shape the underside as the picture indicates. Smooth and sand the wood when you have the desired shape. For a last polish, rub hard with a smoothly sanded piece of hardwood about the size of a pencil or larger. Attach the point section to the base with screws and glue.

:~----======11 ½ "------======

Top 4½" view of point

11½" EM 4595- Page 68 EM 4595- Page 69

4-H CLOTHING ACTIVITIES Have members begin with short demonstrations of easy techniques at project meetings. As they 4-H clothing activities are fun and can help young progress in skill and confidence, have them give people learn about themselves and others. En­ their demonstration at another club, at school, or courage members to participate in 'as many ac­ at a community gathering. Encourage members tivities as possible. Some of the ideas listed to give at least one demonstration during the below can be used in club meetings. Others in­ year. volve reaching out to other clubs and groups in your community and county. Some of the ac­ County and State 4-H Fair demonstration con­ tivities have been developed as contests at coun­ tests give members the opportunity to be judged ty fairs and the State 4-H Fair. as they give a demonstration. Check fair premium books for more information about Clothing Expo these contests.

Clothing Expo is a contest held at some county You can get demonstration ideas from the fairs and at the State 4-H Fair. It gives members "Member Should Learn" and "Teaching Ideas" an opportunity to show what they have learned sections for each project in this leader's guide. in their clothing projects. It consists of a demonstration illustrating a time/ energy study in 4-H publications on demonstrations are the construction of a garment. There are no re­ available. They discuss: quirements as to the type of garment. It is up to the individual member and leader to choose a • Selecting a subject and collecting information. garment that is within the member's capabilities. • Planning an outline with an introduction, main Participants need to be prepared to talk with the points, and a conclusion. audience during their demonstration. They can • Making visuals. tell something about what they are making, about various time-saving techniques used, why • Evaluating the demonstration. the fabric was selected, or advantages of this particular fiber content for the garment. There is Educational Displays a 2 1 /2 hour time limit to complete the garment. Use educational displays to stimulate thoughts, As members practice for this contest, they can teach facts, or show a process. Educational use C 0152, Score Card for Judging Clothing Ex­ displays can be posters, table top displays, po, to help evaluate their activity-demonstration. mobiles, or booths. They should have an educa­ tional message, be of good design, and be Demonstrations original, creative, and neat.

Demonstrations are used to show a recommend­ Individual members or your club as a group can ed process or technique. Giving demonstrations inform the community about 4-H by setting up helps young people develop poise and self­ educational displays in local stores, banks, confidence while they share information with libraries, etc. Check with public school officials others. It also helps them master the skill they are to see if a 4-H educational display can be used in demonstrating. cooperation with a school program.

Models, flip charts, flannel boards, posters, County fairs and the State 4-H Fair accept educa­ mannequins, and other visuals may be used to il­ tional displays as exhibits. Check the fair lustrate ideas. premium book. EM 4595- Page 70

General 4-H publications are available on letter­ • An ability to select and use suitable and ing, posters, exhibits, and evaluation of exhibits. becoming accessories for a total look. • An awareness of interpretation of current Exhibits fashion for the individual. An important part of 4-H is having members 3. Make and model a garment that is an asset to display the end result of their project. Whether it the wardrobe. is a pincushion, T-shirt, sleeping bag, or a wool coat, young people enjoy showing others what 4. Develop poise, good posture, an d habits of they have done. 4-H'ers can exhibit their project good grooming. work at club meetings, community events, and fairs. The community benefits by seeing the ac­ 5. Evaluate project results by using 4-H complishments of 4-H members. scoresheets.

When exhibiting at a show or a fair, members 6. Develop leadership skill as they help plan and should know and understand the exhibit re­ conduct the fashion revue. quirements. They should know that the exhibit will be evaluated by a professional who will offer Members should begin to participate in fashion constructive comments for future im­ revues as soon as they complete a garment. provements. Have them start by sharing with other members at a meeting. Ask the member to walk and turn Members can evaluate their finished clothing around as the leader or another member items before taking them to the fair or show by describes what they have sewn. A show for using the same scorecard that the judge will use. parents can be held when projects have been Members should be sure the clothing is clean and completed. Also consider fashion revues for neatly pressed. Many fairs require that care senior citizen groups, women's groups, and · labels be attached. other organizations. Each time 4-H'ers display and model clothing, they gain poise and self­ C 0065, Score Card for Evaluating Clothing Ex­ confidence. Fashion revue will also help increase hibits, and PNW 0197, Quality Standards in community interest in 4-H . Clothing Construction, can be used by members as they evaluate their clothing items. At the end of the year, members can model their clothing at County and State 4-H Fair fashion Fashion Revue revues. General appearance and garment con­ struction as it affects appearance are evaluated . Fashion revues should provide 4-H girls and boys In some counties and at the State 4-H Fair, the opportunities to: contestant's knowledge of clothing selection and construction and past records are also 1. Show their project accomplishments to club evaluated. The evaluation helps 4-H'ers in plan­ members, family, and friends. ning, selecting, and constructing clothing. New friendships are also a part of the 4-H fashion 2. Build self-confidence as they develop- revue experience . • An understanding of self in order to select and make clothing to express the personal­ The following publications can help members as ity . they participate in fashion revues: • Skills in planning, selecting, and construc­ ting clothing. EM 4595- Page 71

EM 4224 Suggestions for Writing 4-H Style 1. Which of these fabrics would be best for Revue Commentary this pattern? EM 4339 Fashion Modeling Your 4-H Gar­ ment 2. Which of these fabrics is printed off-grain? C 0153 S tate Style Revue Score Card PNW 0197 Quality Standards in Clothing Con­ 3. Which of these buttons is most suitable for struction this fabric and pattern? EM 0682 Personal Data Sheet, State Style Revue Information 4. Which of these interfacings is most suitable for this fabric? J.C. Penney Coordinated Contest 5. Which of these seam finishes is most This contest was developed to encourage suitable for this fabric? members to select and construct creative garments and to help hold the interest of older 6. Which of these labels gives the best infor­ members. mation?

The contests are arranged by the Extension 7. Which marking method is most suitable for agent and the local J. C. Penney store manager. this fabric? Awards for this contest include grants to attend State 4-H Conference and the J.C. Penney lun­ 8. Which of these fabrics has a plain weave? cheon at the conference. The luncheon is the 9. Which pattern is most suitable for this only state wide part of the activity. plaid? See EM 1401, Information Sheet for Selecting J. C. P_enney Clothing Awards, and your county 10. Which seam is most durable? agent for further information. 11. Which method of hemming is most suitable Judging Events for this fabric?

People make decisions in everything they do. 4-H 12. Which layout is correct? members can develop more judgment and ability in decision making by participating in 4-H judging In judging the class, members place the items events. They can learn to reason and speak from the best to the poorest. before a group as they try to explain why one County and State 4-H judging contests let item is more suitable than another. members use their knowledge about standards Practice in judging can begin in 4-H club and quality. meetings. Set up a group of three or four like clothing items. Start by making the quality varia­ Records tions very extreme. As members are taught what Through keeping records, 4-H'ers can organize the standards of good quality are, they will be and evaluate what they have learned. Leaders able to identify them in judging classes. can help members understand why records are Judging classes can be made up from items in needed and encourage them to keep records. It is your sewing box or closet. Usually a situtation is a good idea to spend time in project meetings fill­ given and a question is asked. Some ideas are: ing out records. EM 4595- Page 72

Good records can be a source of pride as a per­ people. When the tour is over, discuss what was manent record of progress and accomplishment. seen . They can stimulate self-improvement, because records show where improvement is needed. If you plan to tour a retail store, discuss in ad­ They also show if project requirements have vance with the manager or salesperson exactly been met. what you want emphasized. Be sure the store is reputable and the personnel knowledgeable. A The secret of keeping records is to do so at the store tour could provide opportunities to study completion of each garment or event, while the fabrics and patterns, to study labels, to see the information and sequence of steps are well variety of fabrics available, and to compare quali­ remembered. Record keeping should be an in­ ty, price, and workmanship of ready-to-wear. tegral part of the 4-H clothing program. Tour ideas: General 4-H publications give more information on keeping 4-H record books. • Manufacturer of apparel, , or ac­ cessories (check the yellow pages of your Skits or Plays telephone directory) . • Sheep ranch. Club meetings are more interesting when 4-H members are actively involved. Many ideas can • Department store-"behind the scenes." be acted out using skits and role-playing situa­ • Home economics department of local univer­ tions. Some examples: 1) shopping trips involv­ sity, college, or community college. ing parent, young person, and clerks in stores; 2) • Beauty or modeling school (check the yellow parent and young person discussing clothing pages of your telephone directory). care; 3) teens discussing grooming ideas and wardrobe decisions. • Museum with costume or textile display. • Small claims court. Tours • Dry-cleaning establishment-either regular or coin-operated. Learn how to use the equip­ Tours are an excellent way to expand knowledge ment. of and interest in clothing and personal ap­ • Sewing machine retailer. pearance. Whenever you plan a tour, always go on the tour beforehand. This way you will know • Laundromat. if it is really worthwhile and you will be able to • Laundry. prepare the group. Before taking a tour, learn a little background information. For example, if Clothing Achievement Awards you tour a woolen mill, learn about wool before you go. Steps in processing wool will be more Selection of winners is usually based at least meaningful. Give suggestions of what to look for partly (if not totally) on the member's 4-H on the tour. For example, the steps in production records, which should show accomplishments, from fiber to fabric, the kinds and size of leadership, and service. Records show where the machinery used, the amount of fiber processed, member started and how the member has the amount of fabric produced. If members are grown. thinking about future careers, have them observe what jobs are available, and if people The awards are incentives toward greater work with the machines, the product, or other achievement, but must not be the ultimate goal. EM 4595- Page 73

When a competitive atmosphere develops, direct it toward bettering one's own accomplishments, not against another person. Members should know that it is their personal knowledge and development are important.

Clothing Achievement Awards are listed in EM 1486, Contests, Awards, Lease Programs, Grants, Demonstrations.

Acknowledgments

Part of the material in this leader's guide was original­ ly issued in 4-H manuals developed by the Extension Services of Colorado, California, and Idaho.

Trade names have been used to simplify information. No endorsement of products is intended.

Issued by Washington State University Cooperative Extension, J . 0. Young, Director, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture, in furtherance of the Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914. Cooperative Extension programs and employment are ava ilable to all without discrimination. Published September 1980. Reprinted September 1981. (

More boys and girls belong to 4-H than any other youth group.