Tech Talk

The wheel has come full circle, from bespoke to mass production to mass customization, and now back to somewhere between mass customization and bespoke. Various industries have customized their respective systems to woo consumers in a very personalized way, offering products made especially for them. Though it is a growing business model, it is difficult to implement and the most critical part is achieving the ‘perfect fit’. Team StitchWorld elucidates the process of achieving ‘perfect fit’ of selected bespoke service providers…

High-end Savile Row fittings trickling down to your streets…

n the quest to corner the – key differentiator of MTM and bespoke is the latest buzz word exclusive-wear seeker in bespoke, is also fading away, as most for some big brands. In fact, many Iclothing, two similar systems of the bespoke tailoring service companies today are offering are prevailing in the market to providers use modular system of bespoke options and the numbers serve the customer. First is bespoke manufacturing instead of the ‘make are growing. tailoring, which denotes clothing through system’ keeping in mind made entirely from measuring the the average skill-level of operators To start visit store or individual, from pattern making, and also to cut the hike in cost. browse website cutting fabric to tailoring and is a system of working on the exact Off-the-rack vs. MTM Customers interested in bespoke specifications of the customer. The and Bespoke tailored shirts, suits or blazers just second one is made to measure need to visit the nearest Raymond’s – refers to clothing sewn from Catering well to ‘on-the-go’ made to measure store or to the a standard-sized base pattern generation, an off-the-rack suit nearest Van Heusen’s store or even involving less workmanship than may be the best option, but won’t log on to Van Heusen’s site. The bespoke tailoring because of the necessarily be the best fit option. brand provides custom tailoring for incorporation of standardization An off-the-rack suit is basically both men and women. in the pattern making and made keeping in mind the general A venture of Arvind, Creyate – a manufacturing processes. Also, measurements of the populace, ‘bridge’ to luxury made to measure it can be manufactured in using common dimensions. brand, offers its customers the modular system. Whereas, a made-to-measure or indulgence of custom tailoring bespoke suit will fit like a glove, Although the two concepts are of shirts, suits, denims and chinos as it will be made from exact technically different, in today’s through Creyate customization measurements. When shopping for fast-paced fashion requirement, the studio. Customers can also a suit, the customer may choose to lines between made to measure browse through their website be quick and take the easy route and bespoke tailoring are getting and book a home visit. It caters to by buying off-the-rack or to make a finer. Bespoke is now relying on both domestic and international customized one – a ‘just-for-them’ standardized patterns, trespassing markets, shipping custom-made piece of art, personalized right its exclusivity of individually-cut clothes across USA, Middle East, down to the type of collar, cuff or patterns and also using technology Singapore, etc. for manufacturing, disseminating lining that the wearer desires. In with the exclusive handcrafting of India, a country known to have It’s My Life Jeans also provides the product. The sewing process grown on personalized tailoring, bespoke tailoring in denim jeans.

Generic process followed for bespoke tailoring

22 StitchWorld  SEPTEMBER 2016  www.apparelresources.com Tech Talk

Customers can browse database which is connected monogrammed. Creyate, also image for reference. They can through the website and to the fabric mills in Bangalore. allows the wearer to make select fabric of their choice book an appointment to get a choice from different fits from fabric swatches sourced However, a different approach the measurements done or available, viz. Regular Fit, from best Indian mills; there is is followed by Van Heusen can visit their partner stores Tailored Fit and Slim Fit. At the also an option to provide their MY FIT concept, where it across the Delhi-NCR, Mumbai studio, the customer is shown own fabric. Also, customers starts the process with the and Hyderabad. Either way the swatch booklet which can choose from different customer’s measurements. the clothes are made based comprises fabric swatches types of fittings. on individual measurements. The customer then selects with a unique code. Offering tailoring services the fabric with a unique code Poptailor procures fabric ranging from shirts and from the fabric booklet past At IML, a customer can choose from Siyaram, Raymond, pants to kurta-pyjama and the measurement process. from a wide range of fabrics Arvind Mills, and other Nehru jackets for men, and However, colour options are sourced from the best mills in well established mills in from shirts and blouses to not available, though choices India, Italy, Spain, Japan, Turkey the international markets... lehenga and salwar kameez, for in sleeve, sleeve length, collars and US, and also trims right Offering a total of 10 women, Tech-Tailor enables and cuffs are available. from the colour of thread, to customization options in customers to schedule buttons and rivets and the collar, cuffs, placket, pocket, With a wide range of over type of stitches they want garment-technician’s visit at hem, sleeves, piping, fit, 1,500 internationally sourced on their tailored jeans. The their doorstep. embroidery and yoke, the fabrics and many options of customers can also decide for bespoke tailoring service Catering to the fashion trims displayed on its website, monogramming, embroideries provider’s unique 3D design sense of Indian middle-class Creyate allows its customers and types of washes they may studio lets customers design segment, Poptailor provides to create a garment for desire for their jeans. their own apparels to their bespoke tailoring of men’s themselves from a number taste. The customer, if he/ shirts and trousers. Customer of choices in collars, cuffs, At Tech-Tailor, customers she desires, can also choose can browse through their pockets, buttons, hems and can select their style from website and personalize their plackets. Customers can also the e-catalogue available or material/colour contrast for look..., a modern take on the get their customized clothing can simply upload their style different parts; moreover traditional neighbourhood master jee. Selection of fabric… A personalized choice At Raymond, a customer is shown the fabric booklet which contains assortments of fabric pattern swatches, each with a unique code. Fashion consultants also assist the customer in creating a personalized style for his suit, trouser, shirt or jacket. Colour “People never get “Tech-Tailor is one “Poptailor provides variants available for some their right fit and of the most trusted its customers with swatches are also displayed in eventually have to get tailoring doorstep unbridled passion the booklet and have a unique their clothes altered. delivery services for perfection. It code as well. A customer IML not only designs in the country. We poses as the ultimate selects the fabric based on his a product which ages offer our services destination for perfect interest. Choices for cufflinks with you but also not only in India but fit, personalized and collars are also available celebrates your life, internationally also in designs and curated at an extra cost. The customer your personality and Denmark, Sweden & fabrics.” care executive then checks your choices.” Australia.” – Ankit Rajput, the availability of the fabric – Aditya Singhal, – Premjeet Singh, Co- Founder, and the colour chosen by the customer in an online CEO and Founder, Founder, Poptailor IML Jeans Tech-Tailor

www.apparelresources.com  SEPTEMBER 2016  StitchWorld 23 Tech Talk

the fabric need not be a At Creyate, once the fabric single selection. and trims are finalized, Raymond measurements are assessed Raymond Made to Measure – a luxurious service Measure through measuring tape and of premium clothing from the house of Raymond customer’s fit… stored on the online portal – The Complete Man, delivers a wholesome and forwarded to Bangalore experience by allowing discerning customer to To record the size and manufacturing unit. Creyate personalize their ensemble to their own taste. It specifications of their studio also keeps dummy fits brings the fantastic experience of finest line of customer, Raymond’s stores for every size and for every fabrics, exquisite designs and flawless technology have dummy fits (trial-on product. Size specifications are into an impeccable craft in the form of shirts and patterns) for both odd and stored in online database for suits. even sizes. If the fabric chosen future prospects. by a customer is available in Unique Feature: Raymond Made to Measure the mill, a master tailor then IML follows a specific and lets the customer choose from fabric rolls in case takes precise measurements unique approach for evaluating customer needs a better understanding of fabric’s and gives them the closest body specifications of suitability on him/her. try-ons. Once the dimensions customers. Style advisors take are recorded, the pinning is 13 different measurements Van Heusen done according to the body to of the customers by using measuring tape and few “Style might well attract, but it’s the fit that makes create the perfect silhouette other props created by IML. To you pull it off”… A revolutionary innovation of the suit. Photographs ensure a perfect fit, a from Van Heusen, My Fit gives the opportunity to of the customer IML mid-trial with jeans personalize shirts, trousers and suits just the way are recorded follows is done with you want them. From the fabrics to the fits, from from different a specific and the customer. the collars to the cuffs, My Fit endeavours stylish angles in unique approach IML gives look with the perfect fit and lets the customer bid order to for evaluating body specifications of customers. customers adieu to ill fittings. capture the details Style advisors take 13 the options Unique Feature: Van Heusen provides five fits of his/her different measurements of five fits of the customers using for women, for men – Plus Fit, Healthy Fit, Tall Fit, Custom Fit, fit, posture measuring tape and few Athletic Fit, and three fits for women, namely and walk. other props created namely Skinny Dianna Fit, Orra Fit and Venus Fit. Measurements by IML. Fit, Slim Fit, Slim are stored in Flared Fit, Straight Creyate online database Fit and Comfort- Boyfriend Fit, and four fits for Arvind Limited forayed into e-commerce with the for future prospects so men – Slim Fit, Straight Fit, launch of Creyate – a custom clothing website, that they could be used next time if the customer Trouser Fit and Comfort-Work targeting to provide an unparalleled experience visits any Raymond store. Fit. Comfort-Boyfriend for with the help of an intuitive user-interface in 2014, Measurements taken are then women is an extremely relaxed letting the customers add individuality to their style forwarded to the Bangalore fit where the crotch and the by choosing garment-fabrics, styles, components, unit for production. front and back allies are much and monograms. M Deepak, Marketing Head, larger and placed half an inch Creyate avers, “Creyate is India’s only true blue omni Van Heusen MY FIT offers above on the waist. Comfort- channel brand. It is the ultimate amalgamation the facility of home visits to Work for men is basically of fashion, brand interaction, technology and record measurements. The designed more like chinos to manufacturing with personalized touch.” Creyate customer care executive wear at the workspace. Body has presence across 60 stores in Japan through its takes measurement of the specifications are stored in the strategic partner Goodhill Corporation, the largest customer and as the name online database for future custom suits manufacturer of Japan with over 50 of the vertical suggests prospects and could be years of experience. Van Heusen’s main focus is on accessed next time. Once fit. Dummy fits are available Unique Feature: Arvind Internet Limited’s (AIL) the measurement evaluation with the store for every first-of-its-kind digital retail experience store – process comes out to be type of fit. Measurements Creyate, with its one-of-its-kind 3D customization accurate, measurements are taken are recorded in a engine aids its customers to view 360 rotational forwarded for production. form and uploaded on their view of their own designed products along with online portal. However, Tech-Tailor offers the facility the facility of sharing and saving the look. measurements are not stored of technicians visiting for future prospects. customer’s doorstep to

24 StitchWorld  SEPTEMBER 2016  www.apparelresources.com www.apparelresources.com  SEPTEMBER 2016  Stitch25 StitchWorldWorld 25 Tech Talk

It’s My Life Jeans Co. Formerly a finishing agents’ manufacturer, Aditya Singhal, CEO and Founder, IML Jeans, ventured into bespoke tailoring of jeans in 2011 to express his love and understanding for jeans. IML completely re-engineered the whole process of jeans construction to provide ultimate fit to customers after surveying 1,000 men and women. “People never get their right fit and eventually get their clothes altered. IML not only designs a product which ages with you but also An operator doing PP spray finishing on jeans at IML Factory celebrates your life, your personality and your choices,” says Aditya. record body specifications. In manufactured at Silver Unique Feature: IML surprises the customer India, conventional method Spark Apparel Ltd. Both with the ‘Surprise You’ lining where they place of measurement tape is shirts and suits/blazers are some funky linings in the tailored jeans. It also applied for measuring while manufactured through PBU embroiders the customer’s name and initials on for customers abroad a body system. After the recording the jeans with the computerized embroidery scanner is installed. Tech-Tailor of size and specifications, machine. maintains anthropometric Van Heusen accelerates the database and algorithms measurements to Madura Tech-Tailor to generate suitable fit Bangalore online. The orders for customers in different of Tech-Tailor are produced Premjeet Singh, Founder, Tech-Tailor, believes geographies. In India, they through modular system that Tech-Tailor is one of the most trusted also have an option for the of production. Individual tailoring doorstep delivery services in the customer to send their best fit patterns for custom fitted country. Their highly trained tailors and on-time garment with free pick up. clothes are being made with delivery ensure that the garment altered or the help of CAD at times. The stitched is exactly the way customer wants it. After personalizing his/ unit encompasses a finishing “Tech-Tailor offers its services not only in India her wear, the customer can unit as well in the premises. but internationally also in Denmark, Sweden & book visit of an ‘outfitter’ Australia,” informs Premjeet. on Poptailor’s website, who For the manufacturing of makes home visits to take tailored clothing at Creyate, Unique Feature: Tech-Tailor provides the option measurements. Customers all the patterns are made of 72 hours express delivery for quick orders. can also provide their best fit on CAD system which are shirt measurements online. then fed into the system for Poptailor Once the outfitter takes the automated cutting at state- Aimed at providing uncompromised quality for measurements, it is saved in of- the art, tech-forward those who only benchmark perfection, Poptailor the customer’s online profile. factory in the outskirts of addresses the problems of ill-fittings and the Customers can use the same Bangalore. Patterns to nearest desire of perfect fit. Ankit Rajput, a young and profile for the next order. fit are altered according to the measurements of the customer. enthusiastic, Co-Founder, Poptailor believes, Patterns come from Japan for “Poptailor provides their customers with Production suits, blazers, bandhgalas and unbridled passion for perfection. It poses as the adding the final formals. Italian production ultimate destination for perfect fit, personalized touch… technology for shirts, denims designs and curated fabrics.” and chinos with Japanese- Bangalore seems to be the Unique Feature: This technology-driven certified MTM specialists give preferred manufacturing fashion company offers a unique proposition Creyate an edge. base with Raymond, Van by offering 3D design studio dynamic in nature Heusen, Tech-Tailor’s and Jeans orders for IML are allowing customers to interact while designing. Creyate having factories manufactured at its production It allows the customers to create their personal in the city. Shirt orders unit in Gurgaon in an assembly environment, e.g. skin tone; matching trousers for Raymond MTM are line system. Individual digitized are manufactured to get that one perfect fit manufactured at Celebration patterns are made for every suiting their individual preferences. Apparels Ltd., and suits individual and cut in single and blazers orders are ply through straight knife.

26 StitchWorld  SEPTEMBER 2016  www.apparelresources.com Tech Talk

the finishing process takes Van Heusen delivers the order place. With the focus on in 7-9 days at customer’s specially crafted apparels doorstep after the order is for each individual, digitized placed. Creyate dispatches patterns are used. The the order to the customer company uses ‘make through after the accomplishment system’ via highly skilled of manufacturing in 12-15 craftsmen to ensure perfect working days. Owing to highly fit and good quality. This mechanized back-end in bespoke service provider also collaboration with Goodhill has a small unit in Mumbai Corporation of Japan, Creyate’s for the customers with FTR deliveries stand at a IML embroiders customer’s name and initials on jeans to give a staggering 94 per cent – an customized look urgent requirements. industry benchmark. Delivery timeline: The biggest value addition of quality checks ranging IML ships the order to the in denims, i.e. washes are from quality of cotton and From 7 to 10 days customer in two weeks also done in-house with dyes to quality of wash on an average… following the day of all recipes made by Aditya. and amount of blueness to order placement after the Customers get themselves ensure the right long lasting Past the process of manufacturing is complete. the liberty to choose from fitted jeans. manufacturing, the orders Tech-Tailor delivers the order 20 different types of finishing for Raymond are dispatched within Bangalore in 7-10 days, such as PP spray, whiskering After the measurements are to the store and the delivery two weeks within India and and destructed jeans which done, Poptailor forwards timeline is 10-12 working three weeks at a location is then done by Fabcare these measurement details days once the order is placed. outside the country. The delivery machine. Every jean goes to the production unit at Customer is expected to come time of the bespoke apparel by through 70-80 parameters Ahmedabad (Gujarat) where to store to collect the order. Poptailor is 7 working days.

www.apparelresources.com  SEPTEMBER 2016  StitchWorld 27