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The of Colonial Boston's Working Class 1760-1770: Part I: The Papers of William Waine by Henry Cooke

William Waine was a Boston tailor with a long working career, that spanned four decades, beginning as a tailor in the 1730s and ending up as a merchant tailor, who purchased ready made clothing from English makers, and re-sold it in bulk parcels to ship owners or crew chiefs, dock owners, ropework owners, and several other trades with whom he and his family did business. By the third quarter of the 18th century, his principal clientele seemed to have been the working men of Boston, especially those in the South End and Fort Hill neighborhoods.

His accounts provide rich insights into the daily lives of working men and women in Boston's South End, recording the services provided to Waine and his family in exchange for the goods and services that they needed to sustain themselves. In many of his accounts, especially those from the 1740s through the early 1760s Waine identified his customers by name, residency, and often occupation, providing us with a rich resource of the clothing made for and worn by these working Bostonians.

Accounts of clothing purchases from William Waine between 1740 and 1760, identify his clients by name, residency and occupation James Fenster of Boston, Ropemaker 1749 To 1 Double breasted 12/ 1/0 1 Green ditto 3/15/0

Edward Gray Junr of Boston, Papermaker 1751 To 1 Kersey Jacket 10 1 pr. green 8

Benjamin Phillips of Boston, Wharfinger 1750 To 1 15/8 to 2 10/8 to 1 pare trow[sers] 5/4 to 2 fear nothing 2/ 2/8 to 1 blew Jacket 14/0 to 1 pr. plush breeches 1/14/8 to 1 frock 5/4

Nathaniel Church of Marshfield 1750 to 1 Jacket 1/ 6/8

James Clark of Boston, Blacksmith 1750 to 1 Blue Jacket for Negro man 16/0 to 1 Fear nothing Jacket 1/ 4/0 1752 to 2 checkd at 5/4 10/8 to 3 fine at 3/ 9/0 1753 to 1 fear nothing Jacket 1/ 4/0

1 Benjamin Gray of Boston, Merchant 1750 to 1 double breastd jacket 13/4 to 1 double breasted Jacket 13/4 to 1 white Jacket [ ?]

Elisha Hopkins of Boston, Mariner 1760 to 1 pr. 5/1

Benjamin Philips of Boston, Wharfinger 1752 to 1 double breasted Jacket 16/0 to 1 Frock, 1 pair trowsers 10/0 to 1 frock 5/4

William Hunt of Boston, Sailor to 4 ½ yds. Floretta at 2/11 13/1 ½ to 1 Swanskin Jacket 6/8

Benjamin Philips of Boston, Wharfinger 1752 to 1 pr. crimson hair plush breeches 1/ 6/0

John Philips of Boston, Mariner 1759 to 1 Blue Duffil Great 1/ 2/0 1760 to 3 checkd Shirts 19/4 to 1 great coat 1/ 4/0 to 1 Rateen & 1 Swanskin Jacket 1/ 6/0

Simon Eliot of Boston, Tobacconist 1754 to 1 Jacket 16/0 to 1 Coat of Beaver Coating 14/3 ¾ to 1 Blue Kersey Jacket 1/ 9/4 to 1 pair trowsers & a 7/0 to 1 pair of Trowsers 5/4

Edward Winter of Boston, Blacksmith 1761 to 3 Stript Swanskin Jackets 18/0 to 1 pair Ticken Trousers 6/5

Purchases from the William Waine Accounts, 1760-1774 show how his business evolved from a largely

2 bespoke trade to a mix of individual purchases and wholesale transactions, as a buyer and seller of slop or ready made working clothing for ship owners or captains, rope walks, and wharf owners. May 10, 1760 [46] Josiah Waters, Painter, Dr To ½ yd. German Serge @ 6/ ..9..- To ¾ yd. Shalloon .. 2.. - ¼ yd. @ 1/10 ½ .. 2..4 & Thread & .. 2..8 & Stay & Twist …...... 1..5 Makg your Son a Jacket ..6.. - £1..3..5

Nov. 6, 1761 Thomas Russell (merchant) Dr To 1 Great Coat 1.. 1..4 To Frock & 1 pr. Trousers 9..2 ½ To 1 pr. Mittens 1..2 ½ Dld Mr Robert Scott, pr order 1..11..9

Novr 21 1760 [79] Timothy Fitch, Mercht , Dr To 1 Jacket 20/ 1 Great Coat 20/8 2..2..8 To 1 Worsted Cap 2/ Dld your Young Man

June 18, 1761 [79] Timothy Fitch, Mercht, Dr To 2 Shirts @ 8/8 ..17..4 To 1 pr. Plush Breeches ..18..8 To 1 Frock & 1 pr Trousers .. 9..4 To 2 pr Worsd 4/4 pr. .. 9..10 To 1 Spotted Jacket .. 7..4 To 1 Silk Handkerchief .. 4..9 ½ To 1 Knife & 1 Cap .. 2..8 £ 3..9..11 ½

July 6, 1761 [79] Timothy Fitch, Dr To 1 Jacket …...... 0..6..0 To 1 pare Briches …...... 0..9..4 To 1 check short …...... 0..4..0 To 1 cap & 1 pare knee buckels …...... 0..2..4 ¾ To 1 handkerchief & buttons 0..1..9 £1..3..5 ¾

3 October 15, 1763 Timothy Fitch (Mercht) Dr To 1 Green Rateen Jacket 0..18..- To 1 & Black Handkf .. 16..- To 1 pr Cotton Trousers .. 7..5 ½ Dd his young man Minot £2.. 1..5 ½ £11..17..3

[83] Capt. Nathaniel Greene, Dr 1761 May 22 To 1 Frock & Pr. Trousers ------.. 9 .. June 16 To 3 pr. Trousers, 2 Frocks & Hatt 1..9.. 18 To 1 Sea Bed & 1 Knife ..9.. July 21 To 2 Frocks ------..9.. Sepr 11 To 2 pr Stript Tousers @ 6/8dld him ..13.. 26 To Sundrys dd Wm Johnson 1...... 6 “ To 1 Pr dd Henry James 1..4 1..1..10 Octr 4 To 1 Stript Shirt dd Henry James ..9.. 7 To 1 Stript Shirt & Jacket dd Wm Johnson ..14.. 21 To 1 Stript Holland Bed & Pillows dd Him 1..4.. 24 To 1 Pr Drawers, 1 pr Trousers & 1 PrYarn Stockins dd your Boy ..14.. 28 To 1 Blanket & Rugg dd himself 1.. “ To Sundrys dd himself 2..3.. “ To Hose & Drawers dd himself ..19.._

[85] James Ferreter, Roapmaker, Dr 1761 July 27 To Sundry as pr Day Book 1..12..0 Novr 18 To 1 pr Trousers dd himself 4..1 23 To1 Fearnothing Jacket omitted 1.. Decr 21 To 3 yds Crimson Colchestr Bays @ 6/ ..18.. £3..14..1 1763 June 10 To 5 pr Trousers as pr day book 1.. 3..

1764 Jany 7 To 1 pr Plush breechs as pr day book ..18.. June 30 To Sundrys as pr day book 1..14..5 July 2 To 1 pr Holland Trousers, dr 6..1 1/2 Augst 3 To 1 Frock, & 1 pr Ticken Trousers do

1765 Sep 21 To 4 Stript Shirts & 1 Bays Jacket, as pr daybook 1..13..4

1766

4 Apr. 19 To 3 pr Everlasting Breeches...... ditto 2..0..8

June 30 1764 James Ferriter, Roapmaker, Dr To 1 pr “Trousers …...... £ .. 3..9 To 1 Jacket & a pr Breeches 1..10..0 £ 1..14..5 July 12, 1764 James Ferriter, Roapmaker, Dr To 1 pr. Holland Trousers dd your son

[25] Jonathan Gilbert, Blacksmith, Dr To 5/8 yd. German Serge @ 6/8 ..4..2 To 1 yd. Shalloon …...... 2..8 To 2 ½ yd. Dowlas @ 2/1 …...... 5.. To Buttons & Twist …...... 2..9 ½ To Silk & Thread …...... 2..8 To Buckram & Stay …...... 1..7 To 3/8 yd. Oznabrigs for @ ¼ .. ..6 To Making a Jacket & 1 Pr Breeches ..12.. To 1 ¾ yd. Dowlas @ 2/...... 3..6 £1..14..10 ½

[72] Melatiah Bourn Esqr,, Dr To 1 Frock & 1 pr Trousers ..9..7 To 2 Stript. Shirts @ 7/4 ..14..8 To 1 Worsted Cap …...... 2..1 ½ To 1 pr Buckels …...... 1..1 Pd Mr.Pitts …...... £1..7..5 ½

[30] Johnson Jackson, Distiller Dr Aug. 1 (1761?) To 3 ½ yds Blue Duffill @ 6/ £ 1..1.. To Thread, Buttons & Hair 2..8 To Making a Great Coat...... 4..8 Dd his Brother, March 29th omitted 1..8..4 To 3 yds. Green Ratteen @ 9/4 £1..8.. To Buttons & Twist...... 3..5 ½ To Silk & thread …...... 3.. To 3/8 yd. Oznabrigs for Pockets .. ..6 To Buckram & Stay …...... 1..5 To Making you a …...... 13.4 £ 2..9..8 ½

August 30, 1763 [43] Capt. John Phillips, (merchant) Dr To 1 Rateen Jacket 1..- ..- To 1 Swanskin Do .. 6.. - dd to his Son Thomas £1..6.. - 1768 Ellis Gray of Boston, Dr

5 April 5 To 1 Great Coat & Mill'd Cap £ 1..5..4 May 25 To 2 Check Shirts …...... 14..

1769 May 18 To Cash paid him as pr Rect £4..14..

1771 July 11 To 1 Kersey Jacket …...... 10.. Augst 30 To 1 Check Shirt & 1 pair Trousers 11..10 Octor 15 To 1 pair Breeches & 1 Shirt …... 1..0..5

1774 July 20 To 1 Check Shirt …...... 6..4 27 To 1 ditto …...... 6..4

Boston ,New England, April 4th 1766 [81] William Corbett Cr By 3 do. Milld Caps @ 14/4 pr doz. 2..3..------11th ------Arnold Wells...... Dr To 1 Great Coat 21/4 & 1 Jacket 16/ £1..17..4 1 pr Trousers 4/2 & 1 pr Stockins 3/ ..7..8 delivd to Saml Kitteridge 2..5..-

To 1 Great Coat 21/4 & 1 Jacket 16/ 1..17..4 1 pr Ticken Trousers6/5 & 1 Blanket 15..5 1 pr Stockins 4/9 ½ , 1 Hatt 3/3 ½ & 1yd Buckram 1/10 ½ 10..1 ½ delivd Davd Oliver...... 3..2..10 ½

To 1 Blanket 9/, 1 Stript Cotton Shirt 10..4 ½ & 1 pr Stockins 1/5 ½ delivd Richd Davis 1..2..10 ½ To be paid in 3 months 6..10..4 ½ ------16th ------[98] Melatiah Bourn Esqr Dr To 1 Shirt 7/9 & 1 pr Trousers 6/5 dld him the 8th instant...... 14..2 To 1 Blue Kersey Jacket 16..0 To 2 Shirts @ 7/9 15..6 To 1 Spottd Lincey Jacket 6..- To 1 pr Fearnothing Trousers 8..- To 1 pr Drawes 6/ & 1 milld Cap 1/6 7..6 To 1 pr Yarn Stockins...... 3..- 2..16..1 3..11..- Boston, New England Feby 22, 1767

6 [34] Paul Baxter (cooper) Dr To 1 Red Duffill Great Coat £1..--.. – To 1 Blue Ratteen Jacket ..18..8 To 2 Frocks & 1 pr. Trousers ..13..11 To 1 milld spotted Flannel Jacket .. 8..11 To 2 Shirts: 1 checkd, 1 stripd @ 7/4 .. 14..8 To 1 pr. Drawes .. 6.. - To 1 Hatt .. 3..4 To 2 prs Worsd Stockins .. 10..8 Delivd Jany 10, 1767 to Mr. Coverley pr 4..17..6 his varble order

Boston, New England, July 13, 1769 [84] James Barrick Dr To 1 Blue Ratteen Jacket ..18..8 To 1 Red Do...... 1..-..- Dd his two Negros

[102] Thomas Russell Dr To 12 Duffil Great @ 18/8 11.. 4..- To 18 Cotton Check Shirts 7/4 6..12..- To 6 ditto 6/8 2..--..- To 12 Check ditto 5/4 3.. 4..- To 13 Stripd Cotton Jackets 8/8 5.. 4..- To 24 Frocks …...... 4/ 4..16..- To 24 Dutch Caps...... 3/1 3..12..- 41..8 -

Boston, New England, Novr 27, 1769 ------29 ------[96] John Piemont Dr To 1 Boys Jacket dld his Apprentice .. 7..4 ------30 ------[103] Nathaniel Greene, Mercht Dr To 1 pr Plush Breehes dld Him ..16..-

[77] John Rowe Dr To 1 Blue Kersey Jacket ..18..- To 1 pair Fearnothing Trousers .. 7..4 To 1 pair Mittens------.. 1..4 1..6..

Sometimes Waine was purchasing clothing made in England from other merchants that would eventually be retailed to ship owners for their crews, dock workers, ropewalks, and other businesses needing inexpensive but sturdy, working clothing Boston,New England, Decr 6, 1760

7 [42] John Hancock, Junr, Mercht Cr By a Bale containg vizt WWNo.1 (bale marking) 24 lined Duffill Settees @ 9/6 £11.. 8..- 12 Lined Bays do 6/6 3..18.. 12 Swanskin do 4/ 2.. 8.. 24 Ermine Lincey do 3/6 4.. 4.. 24 White and Blue Drawers 22d 2.. 4.. 12 Milled Serge 9/6 5..14.. 18 pr. Hair Shag Breeches 11/ 9..18.. 12 pr. Worsted do 6/6 3..18.. 12 Rugg Great Coats 10/6 6.. 6.. 12 Welled (welted?) Jackets 5/6 3.. 6.. 12 Common do 4/6 2..14.. 12 Blue Fearnot do 6/6 3..18 …...... 6..8 Sterling £60..2..8 Advance @ 75 pr ct 45..2.. Memo: recd the above goods in Capt Aitkin £105..4..8

William Waine seems to have had extensive accounts with Captain Samuel Partridge of Boston, who may have been his agent in England or merely the transportation for his goods.

Boston, New England, Feby 1, 1762 [89] Samuel Partridge Mariner , Cr By a Bale vt Sundry Clothing vizt SP.No5: 6 Rug Coats @ 9/6 £ 2..17.. - 24 Lind Settee Jackets 6/ 7.. 4.. - 12 Serge Waistcoats 6/ 3..12.. - 12 Fine do 8/ 4..16.. - 12 White do trimm'd wth black 3/9 2.. 5.. - 12 Spotted Settee Waistts 3/ 1..16.. - 12 Shag Breeches 6/6 3..18.. - 12 Honey Combd do 4/6 2..14.. - 24 Hatts 1/2 1.. 8.. - Wrapper & Cord …...... 4.. - Sterg £30..14..4 Advd @ 73 1/3 pct. 22..16..3 ¾ 53..4..3 ¾

By a Box qt Vizt SP No1 8 doz. Stoughtons Elixer @ 8/ pr.. £3..4.. - Advd @ 73 1/3 pct 2..8.. - 5..12.. - To pay in 12 mo Lawful Mo £ 58..16..3 ¾

Boston, New England, March 19, 1763

8 [89] Capt Samuel Partridge, (New Acct) Cr By a Bale SPNo 1 qtvizt 6 Whitney Great Coats @ 9/ £ 2..14..- 1 doz. Large Waistcoats, 7/6 4..10.. - 2 doz. Best Mild Large do 8/6 10.. 4.. 1 doz. Flannel do 6/3 3..15..- 1 doz. Worsted Shag Breechs 6/ 3..12..- 1 doz. Blue Duffill Setts 8/6 5.. 2..- 1 doz. Best Kersey Jackets 6/ 3..12..- 2 doz. Spottd Ermin Setts 3/6 4.. 4..- 1 doz. Do Boys 2/9 1..13..- 2 doz. Dutch Caps 15/6 1..11..- Cord & WRAPER 5..- A Keg No3 qt vizt 2 doz. Mens Hatts 15/ 1..10..- A Box qt vizt 6 doz. Stoughons Elixer 8/ 2.. 8..- £45..--..- Advance @ 75 pr ct 33.15..- 78..15..- To be paid within 12 months from the 5th instant

Boston, New England Date? 1763? [89] Capt Samuel Partridge Cr By a Bale SPNo.1 vizt 12 Blue Everlasting Breeches @5/9 3.. 9..- 6 Scarlet ditto …...... 6/ 1..16..- 12 Shag ditto …...... 6/6 3..18..- 12 Scarlet ditto …...... 7/6 4..10..- 12 Fearnothing Trousers 3/3 1..19..- 12 Swanskin Settee 3/6 2.. 2..- 12 Lind Bays Settees …...... 5/9 5.. 3..6 12 Double breasted Fearn. Jackets 5/ 3..--..-- £25.. 7..6 By a Bale SPNo.2 vizt 24 Long Fearnothing Trousers @ 3/9 4..10..- 30 Rug Coats …...... 8/6 12..15..- Paper(?) & Cord 7..- Sterlg £43..9..6 Advance 73 1/3 pr ct 31..17..7 ½ To pay in twelve months ------75..7..1 1/2

Boston, New England, October 27, 1764

9 [89] Samuel Partridge, Cr By a Bale 8P No1 vzt 2 doz. Men's Rugg Coats @ 9/ £ 10..16.. - 1 doz. Fearnothing Jackets 6/3 3..15.. - 1 doz. Lind Duffill Waists 10/6 6.. 6.. - With Lap 1 doz. Do Do with Pocks 10/9 6.. 9.. - 6 Fine Kersey Jackets,broad Lapd 7/9 2.. 6.. 6 6 do Lind & Pockets 11/ 3.. 6.. - 3 doz. Saxon green Muffitees 4/ .. 12.. - 4 doz Mixed Gloves 6/9 1.. 7.. - 34..17..6 By a Bale No2 1 doz. Rugg Coats @ 9/ ea. £ 5.. 8.. - 1 doz Serge Waists 7/6 4..10.. - 1 doz. Fine Kersey Jackets 6/ 3..12.. - 1 doz.Mill'd Serge Waists 8/6 5.. 2.. - 6 Fearnothing Jackets 6/3 1..17..6 8 Ermine Lin'd Settees 3/6 3.. 3.. - 3 pr.Fearnothing Trousers 3/2 9..6 3 pr. Do Longer 3/9 11..3 2 doz. Dutch Caps 15/ 1..10..- 6 Duffill Settees 8/6 2..11.. - Pack Cloth & Cord .. 8..6 Sterling £29..2..9 64.. -..3 Another mariner with extensive sales transactions with Waine was Capt William Davies of Boston. With little to no overlap of accounts, he may have became Waine's new principal agent and supplier. Boston,New England, Septr 6th 1766 Octr 6 [97] Capt William Davies, Mariner Cr By 8 doz. Dutch Caps @ 15/ £6.. ..- 12 Fearnothing Great Coats 9/ 5.. 8..- 12 Large Fearnothing Jackets 6/ 3..12..- 24 Fearnothing Trousers 3/6 4.. 4..- 12 ditto Shorter 3/ 1.. 6..- 12 Milld Serge Waistcoats 8/6 5.. 2..- 24 Stripe Cotton Setees, 3/6 4.. 4..- 1 Nest Gilted Trunks 18..- 6 doz. Jack Knives 3/6 1.. 1..- 2 doz. Muffitees 4/ 8..- Box & Cloth for the Caps & Slops 6..- £32..19..- Advance @ 73 1/3 pr ct 24.. 3..3 ½ To be paid in 12 mos 57.. 2..3 ½

10 Boston ,New England [Date?] 1767 [97] Capt.William Davies Cr By 4 doz. Rug & Fearnothing Great 21..12..- Coats By 1 doz. Fearnothing Jackets 3..12..- By 1 doz. Swanskin Jackets 2.. 5..- By 1 doz Blue Honly Jackets 4.. 4..- By 1 doz. Best Kersey do, Belted 3..12..- Packing Cloath for do 7..- By 6 doz. Mill Gloves 2.. 2..- By 2 doz. Green Muffitees 10..6 Sterlg £38.. 4..6 Advance @ 73 1/3 pr ct 28.. 0..8 To pay in 12 months …...... 56..5..2

Boston,New England, April 20,1768 [97] William Davies Cr By 6 Large Waistcoats @ 8/ £ 2.. 8..- By 1 doz. Cotton Settees 3/ 1..16..- By 1 doz. Fearnothing Trousers 3/9 2.. 5..- Part of Pack Cloth 6d By 1 Nest Gilt Trunks ..19..- By 4 doz Dutch Caps with WorsdBindg 3..-..- By 1 doz do with Lincey Bindg 1..10..- Box .. 3..3 Sterling £12.. 1..9 Advance @ 73 1/3 pr ct 8..16..3 ½ To pay in 12 months …...... 20..18..0 ½

Boston, New England Octor 8, 1768 [97] William Davies Cr By 12 Serge Waistcoats @ 8/6 5.. 2..- By 18Fearnothing Jackets 6/3 5..12..6 By 12 Blue Rugg Great Coats 9/ 5.. 8..- By 18 Swanskin Settees 3/9 3.. 7..6 By 24 Large Swanskin Drawers 1/9 2.. 2..- By 12 Large Bays Settees 8/1 4..16..- By 8 pr Fearnothing Trousers 3/2 ..19..- By 6 pr do Longer 3/6 1.. 1..- By 6 pr Blue Cloth Breeches 6/6 1..19..- Pack Cloth & Cord 3..6 By 6 doz. MilldGloves & Mitts 2.. 2..- By 8 Giltd Trunks 11..6 Sterlg £33.. 4..- Advance @ 73 1/3 pr ct 24.. 7..- To be paid in 12 months …...... 57..11..-

11

Boston, New England, July 13, 1769 [97] William Davies Cr By 42 Rugg & Fearnothing Great Coats @ 9/ £ 18..18..- By 12 Blue Fearnothing Jackets 6/ 3..12..- By 18 Spotted Swanskin Settees 3/9 3.. 7..6 By 30 pr Swanskin Drawers 1/8 2..10..- By 12 Stripd Cotton Settees 3/1 1..16..- By 18 pr Fearnothing Trousers 3/3 2..18..6 By 6 pr Short do 3/ ..18..- By 9 Swanskin Settees 3/6 1..11..6 By 3 do no 2/10 8..6 By 2 Wrappers ..6..- By 6 doz. Seamans Jack Knives 1.. 1..- By 6 doz. Milld Gloves & Mitts 2.. 2..- By 1 doz. Milld Caps...... 1.. 1..-

Boston, New England, April 19, 1770 ------May 4th ------[97] William Davies Cr By 5 do. Seaman's Hatts & Box £ 3..19..6 By 9 large Milld Serge Jackets 3..12..- By 6 doz. Stoughton Elixer 7 Box 2..8..6 By a Nest Trunk...... 19..- Sterlg £10..19..- Advance@ 73 1/3 pr ct 8.. 0..7 ½ Recd 23rd Ulto to be paid in 12 months …..... 18..19..7 ½

Boston,New England, Novr 5th,1770 ------14th------[97] William Davies Cr By 14 Large Rugg Great Coats @ 9/ £6..6..- By 12 Blue Fearnothing Jackets 6/ 3..12..- By 18 Beas (bays?) Settees Lined 6/8 6.. –..- By 12 Common do with Pockets 5/6 3.. 6..- By 12 7/8 Long Fearnothing} 3/3 1..19..- Trousers By 6 Large Fearnothing } 9/ 2..14..- Great Coats By 9 Spotted Swanskin Settees 4/ 1.. 6..- By 9 White do 3/9 1..13..9 By 3 do Bodys 2/6 .. 7..6 By 30 pr Swanskin Drawers 20d 2..10..- By 6 Large Boys (Bays) Settees 4/6 1.. 7..- By 3 Spotted Bodys Settee 2/9 .. 8..3

12 By 12 Stripd Cotton Settees 3/3 1..19..- By 6 do Bodys do 2/6 ..15..- By Wrapper for 2 Bales 4..8 By 3 doz. Milld Caps 21/ 3.. 3..- By 4 doz. Milld Gloves 7/ 1.. 8..- Sterling £39.. 9..2 Advce @ 73 1/3 prct 28..18..8 ¾ recd the 12 ulto - to be paid in 12 mos …...... 68.. 7..10 ¾

13 The Clothing of Colonial Boston's Working Class 1760-1770: Part II: Dressing the Part Using the William Waine Accounts by Henry Cooke

As living history interpreters, the William Waine accounts provide a rich resource of the clothing and materials used by the working men of Boston and other port towns during the late colonial era. The information on the types of clothing used, the styles, materials and combinations can help to guide us in the credible re-creation of their outward appearance. Types of Clothing For an overview of the types of clothing worn by 1760s men in British North America, see the excellent mongraph by David Niescior, and a similar work on the of the maritime trades by Matthew Brenckle. Based on the accounts of William Waine, we can see that certain types of garments predominate the clothing choices of working Bostonians, whose employment required them to be outdoors or in large unheated spaces, such as warehouses and ropewalks, in cold and inclement weather. frequently show up in accounts of clothing purchased by both individuals and businesses. For some working men, this might be their principal outer garment, supplemented by a jacket or sleeved , or multiple lined or unlined waistcoats layered for protection against the cold. Valued at 9 shillings or more, they are the most expensive articles of clothing in a working man's . The woolen cloths that appear most frequently in the account descriptions are rugg, a type of cloth that has an apparent horizontal rib, duffil, a thick heavily napped cloth, and “fearnothing”a coarse heavy cloth with a long hairy . Jackets, mostly of , either lined or unlined, show up in Waine's accounts much more frequently than coats, which are more commonly worn by shopkeepers and those of the “middling” and “better” sorts. It would appear that these garments took on a variety of forms, including skirted and skirtless styles, as well as those with round cuffs as described by David Niescior and mariner cuffs. The skirtless style may have been what was referred to as a “settee”, which is also used as a descriptor for a style of waistcoat, perhaps because it “set” on the hip rather than having thigh length . According to Matthew Brenckle, such short garments were coming into vogue as inexpensive and convenient clothing for men engaged in the maritime trades. Nearly all of the jackets that show up in the Waine accounts are some form of woolen, with “fearnothing”, “german serge”, “milld serge”, and milld bays being among the more common cloths. Frocks appear in numerous purchases by mariners, roperworkers, wharfingers, and others, often in association with trousers as a protective over garment. Because they do not show up in the wholesale purchases from trans-Atlantic merchants, it is likely that Waine was getting frocks from local suppliers. While no descriptions of the materials are given, it may be presumed, that many of them were made of linen, old sail canvas, or woolen cloths. Valued at 4 shillings, compared to 7 shillings on average for a shirt, they were an inexpensive over garment, and likely took the form of a knee or calf length overshirt of the sort depicted by John Singleton Copley in his 1778 painting of Watson and the Shark Waistcoats, like jackets, appear in a variety of forms, with and without sleeves, linings, and pockets. Waistcoats, when listed as such, are likely the skirted form as described by David Niescior, with a relatively straight or shallow curved front line. If we accept the term “settee” as describing a square cut skirtless waistcoat, then these also seem to be popular in a variety of plain and spotted cloths, and striped and plain .

14 Breeches and Trousers form the two classes of legwear, and their forms are well described by Messrs Niescior and Brenckle as cited previously. In the Waine accounts, trousers appear to be the predominant form of legwear for laboring men. Breeches, where they appear in the accounts are exclusively made of stout warm , such as fearnothing, and napped cloths such as “(mo)hair plush” which was akin to a long , “honeycomb plush” which had the appearance of a cross-barred pattern , and shag, a woolen cloth with a long hairy nap. Most likely they were made with a fall front closure. Trousers, depending on the could be of light weight Holland linen, or nankeen, as well as or canvas for warm weather wear, and of woolen cloth in the colder seasons, with “fearnothing”, which is described by Florence Montgomery as “a thick [woolen] cloth with a long pile” Shirts were purchased by Waine from a variety of local suppliers. Based on purchases, they appear to have been plain linen and cotton, as well as in check and striped patterns. The cuffs would have been closed with sleeve buttons or -links. , as described in the Waine accounts are almost always knit wool or worsted yarn. While color is infrequently mentioned, black seems to have been a fashionable color, though appearing much less frequently than what were most likely natural fleece colors, from white ranging through greys and browns. show up infrequently in the Waine accounts, most likely because Boston had a number of shoemakers, so there was no need to stock cheap ready made shoes. Shoes of this time were straight lasted, with latchet extensions off of the quarters that could be fastened with buckles or ties. In the 1760s William Waine purchased shoe and knee buckles, sleeve buttons, and “mettal buttons” from Thomas Russel, a Charlestown merchant. Hatts & Caps show up in many of the purchases and sales in William Waine's accounts. Other than a mention of the purchase of “5 doz. Seaman's Hatts & Box”, we can consider that they were typical round or cocked popular with working men, as described by Matthew Brenckle. Vastly outnumbering the hats bought and sold by Waine were the multitude of wool and worsted knit caps, especially “dutch caps” and “mill'd caps”. Depending on the type of , they could be worn by themselves as a warm form or that would not be blown off in the wind, or they could be worn as an added layer under a round or cocked . – Stocks do not appear in the Waine accounts that I have examined thus far, but handkerchiefs, and neck handkerchiefs show up in his purchases from Thomas Russell and others. These included black silk and spotted handkerchiefs, check cotton romal handkerchiefs, and plain, holland, and checked linen handkerchiefs Gloves or Mittens figure in both William Waine's purchases and sales. Both appear to be knitted wool which was fulled or milled to make them warmer and more impervious to wetness. Both knitted mittens and gloves were archaeologically recovered from the British ship, General Carleton of Whitby, and a mitten with Revolutionary War context is shown in George Neumann's Encyclopedia of the American Revolution

Materials Rather than describe the noted in the accounts and the above narrative,the reader is directed to see the descriptions and images of many of these textiles in Florence Montgomery's Textiles in America

15 Combinations The garments described above were not necessarily worn together. Full length waistcoats would not likely have been worn with short jackets, and frocks appear to have been frequently worn with trousers. Based on the purchases noted in Part I of this paper, and other entries from the Waine accounts, I have put together a group of combinations of likely clothing for certain occupational groups.  Mariners and Maritime related Occupations: Option 1 - Short Jackets & waistcoats, with trousers and hats or knit caps Option 2 – Jacket with waistcoat and breeches or trousers, with hat or knit cap Option 3 – Frocks and Trousers,with a hat or knit cap – primarily a form of working over dress For extra warmth, a may be worn over Options 1 &2. Under waistcoats may be worn with any of the options. Gloves or mittens may be worn with any of the options as conditions may dictate  Working Dress of Maritime trades and Laborers Option 1 - Short Jackets & waistcoats, with trousers and hats or knit caps Option 2 – Jacket with waistcoat and breeches or trousers, with hat or knit cap Option 3 – Frocks and Trousers,with a hat or knit cap – primarily a form of working over dress For extra warmth, a greatcoat may be worn over Options 1 &2. Under waistcoats may be worn with any of the options. Gloves or mittens may be worn with any of the options as conditions may dictate  Clothing of Working men in general Option 1 – Jacket with waistcoat and breeches or trousers, with hat or knit cap Option 2 – Frocks and Trousers,with a hat or knit cap – primarily a form of laborer's over dress For extra warmth, a greatcoat may be worn over Option 1 Under waistcoats may be worn with either option. Gloves or mittens may be worn with any of the options as conditions may dictate  Clothing of merchants/shopkeepers Option 1 – Coat, waistcoat, and breeches, either as separate elements or as a of complementing parts or a suit of ditto Option 2- Jacket, waistcoat, and breeches, as separate elements. For extra warmth, a greatcoat may be worn over both options Under waistcoats may be worn with either option. Gloves or mittens may be worn with any of the options as conditions may dictate

Recommendations for Clothing of Working Class Bostonians, 1760-1775:

16 For an excellent discussion of the quality standards of appropriate garments, see Matthew Brenckle's Clothing for the Maritime Trades in New England, 1765-1770, and David Niescior's Clothing Guidelines, Civilian Men, Boston Massacre Reenactment, 2017, as part of the clothing specifications for Boston living history events. For the purposes of the following recommendations, their standards should be considered as included here by reference. Based on the information in this report, I would recommend the following broad standards: Best: Clothing of proper styles, materials and combinations, completely sewn and finished by hand. Acceptable: Clothing of proper styles,materials and combinations, sewn by machine on the long seams and finished by hand on all visible surfaces and finishes. Unacceptable: Clothing of improper styles, materials or combinations, sewn and finished by machine; modern clothing and accessories. Remember, we are trying to re-create working class Boston men in the wintertime. Linen coats and jackets, linen or cotton waistcoats and breeches, and linen caps and cotton or linen stockings are unacceptable for wear as they would have been for our counterparts in the 1760s and 1770s

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