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The Clothing of Colonial Boston's Working Class 1760-1770: Part I: the Papers of Tailor William Waine by Henry Cooke

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The Clothing of Colonial Boston's Working Class 1760-1770: Part I: the Papers of Tailor William Waine by Henry Cooke The Clothing of Colonial Boston's Working Class 1760-1770: Part I: The Papers of Tailor William Waine by Henry Cooke William Waine was a Boston tailor with a long working career, that spanned four decades, beginning as a bespoke tailor in the 1730s and ending up as a merchant tailor, who purchased ready made clothing from English makers, and re-sold it in bulk parcels to ship owners or crew chiefs, dock owners, ropework owners, and several other trades with whom he and his family did business. By the third quarter of the 18th century, his principal clientele seemed to have been the working men of Boston, especially those in the South End and Fort Hill neighborhoods. His accounts provide rich insights into the daily lives of working men and women in Boston's South End, recording the services provided to Waine and his family in exchange for the goods and services that they needed to sustain themselves. In many of his accounts, especially those from the 1740s through the early 1760s Waine identified his customers by name, residency, and often occupation, providing us with a rich resource of the clothing made for and worn by these working Bostonians. Accounts of clothing purchases from William Waine between 1740 and 1760, identify his clients by name, residency and occupation James Fenster of Boston, Ropemaker 1749 To 1 Double breasted Jacket 12/ 1/0 1 Green ditto 3/15/0 Edward Gray Junr of Boston, Papermaker 1751 To 1 Kersey Jacket 10 1 pr. green plush breeches 8 Benjamin Phillips of Boston, Wharfinger 1750 To 1 frock 15/8 to 2 frocks 10/8 to 1 pare trow[sers] 5/4 to 2 fear nothing Jackets 2/ 2/8 to 1 blew Jacket 14/0 to 1 pr. plush breeches 1/14/8 to 1 frock 5/4 Nathaniel Church of Marshfield 1750 to 1 fustian Jacket 1/ 6/8 James Clark of Boston, Blacksmith 1750 to 1 Blue Jacket for Negro man 16/0 to 1 Fear nothing Jacket 1/ 4/0 1752 to 2 checkd Shirts at 5/4 10/8 to 3 fine woolen caps at 3/ 9/0 1753 to 1 fear nothing Jacket 1/ 4/0 1 Benjamin Gray of Boston, Merchant 1750 to 1 double breastd jacket 13/4 to 1 double breasted Jacket 13/4 to 1 white flannel Jacket [ ?] Elisha Hopkins of Boston, Mariner 1760 to 1 pr. Trousers 5/1 Benjamin Philips of Boston, Wharfinger 1752 to 1 double breasted Jacket 16/0 to 1 Frock, 1 pair trowsers 10/0 to 1 frock 5/4 William Hunt of Boston, Sailor to 4 ½ yds. Floretta at 2/11 13/1 ½ to 1 Swanskin Jacket 6/8 Benjamin Philips of Boston, Wharfinger 1752 to 1 pr. crimson hair plush breeches 1/ 6/0 John Philips of Boston, Mariner 1759 to 1 Blue Duffil Great Coat 1/ 2/0 1760 to 3 checkd Shirts 19/4 to 1 great coat 1/ 4/0 to 1 Rateen & 1 Swanskin Jacket 1/ 6/0 Simon Eliot of Boston, Tobacconist 1754 to 1 Serge Jacket 16/0 to 1 Coat of Beaver Coating 14/3 ¾ to 1 Blue Kersey Jacket 1/ 9/4 to 1 pair trowsers & a Cap 7/0 to 1 pair of Trowsers 5/4 Edward Winter of Boston, Blacksmith 1761 to 3 Stript Swanskin Jackets 18/0 to 1 pair Ticken Trousers 6/5 Purchases from the William Waine Accounts, 1760-1774 show how his business evolved from a largely 2 bespoke trade to a mix of individual purchases and wholesale transactions, as a buyer and seller of slop or ready made working clothing for ship owners or captains, rope walks, and wharf owners. May 10, 1760 [46] Josiah Waters, Painter, Dr To ½ yd. German Serge @ 6/ ..9..- To ¾ yd. Shalloon .. 2.. - ¼ yd. Dowlas @ 1/10 ½ .. 2..4 Silk & Thread & Buckram .. 2..8 & Stay Buttons & Twist …............... .. 1..5 Makg your Son a Jacket ..6.. - £1..3..5 Nov. 6, 1761 Thomas Russell (merchant) Dr To 1 Great Coat 1.. 1..4 To Frock & 1 pr. Trousers 9..2 ½ To 1 pr. Mittens 1..2 ½ Dld Mr Robert Scott, pr order 1..11..9 Novr 21 1760 [79] Timothy Fitch, Mercht , Dr To 1 Jacket 20/ 1 Great Coat 20/8 2..2..8 To 1 Worsted Cap 2/ Dld your Young Man June 18, 1761 [79] Timothy Fitch, Mercht, Dr To 2 Shirts @ 8/8 ..17..4 To 1 pr. Plush Breeches ..18..8 To 1 Frock & 1 pr Trousers .. 9..4 To 2 pr Worsd Hose 4/4 pr. .. 9..10 To 1 Spotted Jacket .. 7..4 To 1 Silk Handkerchief .. 4..9 ½ To 1 Knife & 1 Cap .. 2..8 £ 3..9..11 ½ July 6, 1761 [79] Timothy Fitch, Dr To 1 Jacket …............................................ 0..6..0 To 1 pare Briches …................................. 0..9..4 To 1 check short …................................... 0..4..0 To 1 cap & 1 pare knee buckels …........... 0..2..4 ¾ To 1 cotton handkerchief & sleeve buttons 0..1..9 £1..3..5 ¾ 3 October 15, 1763 Timothy Fitch (Mercht) Dr To 1 Green Rateen Jacket 0..18..- To 1 Shirt & Black Handkf .. 16..- To 1 pr Cotton Trousers .. 7..5 ½ Dd his young man Minot £2.. 1..5 ½ £11..17..3 [83] Capt. Nathaniel Greene, Dr 1761 May 22 To 1 Frock & Pr. Trousers ---------- .. 9 .. June 16 To 3 pr. Trousers, 2 Frocks & Hatt 1..9.. 18 To 1 Sea Bed & 1 Knife ..9.. July 21 To 2 Frocks ------------------------- ..9.. Sepr 11 To 2 pr Stript Tousers @ 6/8dld him ..13.. 26 To Sundrys dd Wm Johnson 1......6 “ To 1 Pr Buckles dd Henry James 1..4 1..1..10 Octr 4 To 1 Stript Shirt dd Henry James ..9.. 7 To 1 Stript Shirt & Jacket dd Wm Johnson ..14.. 21 To 1 Stript Holland Bed & Pillows dd Him 1..4.. 24 To 1 Pr Drawers, 1 pr Trousers & 1 PrYarn Stockins dd your Boy ..14.. 28 To 1 Blanket & Rugg dd himself 1.. “ To Sundrys dd himself 2..3.. “ To Hose & Drawers dd himself ..19.._ [85] James Ferreter, Roapmaker, Dr 1761 July 27 To Sundry as pr Day Book 1..12..0 Novr 18 To 1 pr Trousers dd himself 4..1 23 To1 Fearnothing Jacket omitted 1.. Decr 21 To 3 yds Crimson Colchestr Bays @ 6/ ..18.. £3..14..1 1763 June 10 To 5 pr Trousers as pr day book 1.. 3.. 1764 Jany 7 To 1 pr Plush breechs as pr day book ..18.. June 30 To Sundrys as pr day book 1..14..5 July 2 To 1 pr Holland Trousers, dr 6..1 1/2 Augst 3 To 1 Frock, & 1 pr Ticken Trousers do 1765 Sep 21 To 4 Stript Shirts & 1 Bays Jacket, as pr daybook 1..13..4 1766 4 Apr. 19 To 3 pr Everlasting Breeches................... ditto 2..0..8 June 30 1764 James Ferriter, Roapmaker, Dr To 1 pr “Trousers …........................... £ .. 3..9 To 1 Nankeen Jacket & a pr Breeches 1..10..0 £ 1..14..5 July 12, 1764 James Ferriter, Roapmaker, Dr To 1 pr. Holland Trousers dd your son [25] Jonathan Gilbert, Blacksmith, Dr To 5/8 yd. German Serge @ 6/8 ..4..2 To 1 yd. Shalloon …............................. ..2..8 To 2 ½ yd. Dowlas @ 2/1 …................ ..5.. To Buttons & Twist …......................... ..2..9 ½ To Silk & Thread …............................. ..2..8 To Buckram & Stay …......................... ..1..7 To 3/8 yd. Oznabrigs for Pockets @ ¼ .. ..6 To Making a Jacket & 1 Pr Breeches ..12.. To 1 ¾ yd. Dowlas @ 2/........................ ..3..6 £1..14..10 ½ [72] Melatiah Bourn Esqr,, Dr To 1 Frock & 1 pr Trousers ..9..7 To 2 Stript. Shirts @ 7/4 ..14..8 To 1 Worsted Cap …................ ..2..1 ½ To 1 pr Buckels ….................... ..1..1 Pd Mr.Pitts …............. £1..7..5 ½ [30] Johnson Jackson, Distiller Dr Aug. 1 (1761?) To 3 ½ yds Blue Duffill @ 6/ £ 1..1.. To Thread, Buttons & Hair 2..8 To Making a Great Coat.......... 4..8 Dd his Brother, March 29th omitted 1..8..4 To 3 yds. Green Ratteen @ 9/4 £1..8.. To Buttons & Twist................. ..3..5 ½ To Silk & thread …................. ..3.. To 3/8 yd. Oznabrigs for Pockets .. ..6 To Buckram & Stay …........... ..1..5 To Making you a Banyan …..... ..13.4 £ 2..9..8 ½ August 30, 1763 [43] Capt. John Phillips, (merchant) Dr To 1 Rateen Jacket 1..- ..- To 1 Swanskin Do .. 6.. - dd to his Son Thomas £1..6.. - 1768 Ellis Gray of Boston, Dr 5 April 5 To 1 Great Coat & Mill'd Cap £ 1..5..4 May 25 To 2 Check Shirts …............ 14.. 1769 May 18 To Cash paid him as pr Rect £4..14.. 1771 July 11 To 1 Kersey Jacket …............ ..10.. Augst 30 To 1 Check Shirt & 1 pair Trousers 11..10 Octor 15 To 1 pair Breeches & 1 Shirt …... 1..0..5 1774 July 20 To 1 Check Shirt …..................... ..6..4 27 To 1 ditto …................................ ..6..4 Boston ,New England, April 4th 1766 [81] William Corbett Cr By 3 do. Milld Caps @ 14/4 pr doz. 2..3..- -------------11th ------------- Arnold Wells................................. Dr To 1 Great Coat 21/4 & 1 Jacket 16/ £1..17..4 1 pr Trousers 4/2 & 1 pr yarn Stockins 3/ ..7..8 delivd to Saml Kitteridge 2..5..- To 1 Great Coat 21/4 & 1 Jacket 16/ 1..17..4 1 pr Ticken Trousers6/5 & 1 Blanket 15..5 1 pr Stockins 4/9 ½ , 1 Hatt 3/3 ½ & 1yd Buckram 1/10 ½ 10..1 ½ delivd Davd Oliver.......................... 3..2..10 ½ To 1 Blanket 9/, 1 Stript Cotton Shirt 10..4 ½ & 1 pr Stockins 1/5 ½ delivd Richd Davis 1..2..10 ½ To be paid in 3 months 6..10..4 ½ -------------- 16th ------------------ [98] Melatiah Bourn Esqr Dr To 1 Shirt 7/9 & 1 pr Trousers 6/5 dld him the 8th instant.........
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