Replica Styles from 1795–1929 AVENDERS L REEN GHistoric Clothing $2.00 AVENDERS L REEN GHistoric Clothing Replica Styles from 1795–1929 Published by Lavender’s Green © 2010 Lavender’s Green January 2010 About Our Historic Clothing To our customers ... Lavender’s Green makes clothing for people who reenact the past. You will meet the public with confidence, knowing that you present an ac- curate picture of your historic era. If you volunteer at historic sites or participate in festivals, home tours, or other historic-based activities, you’ll find that the right clothing—comfortable, well made, and accu- rate in details—will add so much to the event. Use this catalog as a guide in planning your period clothing. For most time periods, we show a work dress, or “house dress.” These would have been worn for everyday by servants, shop girls, and farm wives across America. We also show at least one Sunday gown or “best” dress, which a middle-class woman would save for church, weddings, parties, photos, and special events. Throughout the catalog you will see drawings of hats and bonnets. Each one is individually designed and hand-made; please ask for a bid on a hat to wear with your new clothing. Although we do not show children’s clothing on most of these pages, we can design and make authentic clothing for your young people for any of these time periods. Generally, these prices will be 40% less than the similar adult styles. The prices given are for a semi-custom garment with a dressmaker- quality finish. Wherever possible, we use the same type of natural fibers as found on vintage originals. Some items are also available in “living history quality,” for an additional cost. This includes hand finishing for buttonholes, topstitching, and other details. For the prices shown, we will adapt the basic styles to your measurements and color preferences. We can also work with you to further customize any of the items and 2 create a unique ensemble. The price will be approximately 50–100% higher than the semi-custom clothing. • Fabric type can be upgraded for a dressier garment. We will research fabric availability and give you a bid. • More trimmings, or luxury trimmings, can be added for an additional charge. These could be self-fabric flounces, braid trims, fine lace, or other details. • Clothing styles may be modified within the variations typical of your time pe- riod, such as sleeves, necklines, etc. • Original styles can be created, based on antique photos or primary sources. • Fitting/Consulting Fees: The first fitting or consultation of ½ hour or less is free. The second and all later fittings on the same project are $25 per hour. If I go to your house or historic site, it is the hourly rate plus travel time. We hope you’ll enjoy reading our catalog and planning your historic wardrobe. Silk Overdress Sincerely, Kay Demlow Designer and Dressmaker Lavender’s Green Historic Clothing 337 NE Second Avenue Hillsboro, OR 97124 January 2010 3 1795–1820 Ladies’ Wear 1800 Spencer Day Dress Jacket 1805 Evening Gown 1813 Day Dress Cotton was a luxury fiber in the 18th century. But, with the invention of the cotton gin in 1793, the price plummeted. Suddenly, every woman could afford a gown of cotton. The new styles took advantage of this soft, lightweight fabric. The first of these simple styles were made in pure, classically inspired fine white cotton. Later styles added woven designs, small prints, puffed trims or embroidery for variety. And, richly colored silk was a grand option for formal wear. These gowns use drawstrings and hooks or buttons for closures and perfect fit. The Spencer jacket closes with hooks and eyes. 1800 DAY DRESS (FINE COTTON) $138 1813 DAY DRESS (COTTON) $174 1805 EVENING GOWN (SILK) $289 SPENCER JACKET (SILK, VELVET OR WOOL) $141 SILK OVERDRESS $176 4 1800–1830s Men’s Wear Shirt, Cravat, Vest, Trouser Shirt, Cravat, Vest, Cutaway Coat, Breeches English gentlemen emulated the distinguished Beau Brummel and attempted to be correct in every well-tailored detail of their wardrobes. Knee breeches and ruffled shirts, a style from the 18th century, were still worn for formal occasions and by older gentlemen. The independent American men were wearing well-cut, democratic suits of plain, dark woolens. Farmers and laborers wore less fashionable clothing, made to wear through years of hard work. EVERYDAY SHIRT $ 61 RUFFLED DRESS SHIRT $ 82 COTTON WORK VEST $ 79 SILK OR WOOL VEST $ 95 TROUSERS $130 BREECHES $119 CUTAWAY COAT $313 SILK CRAVAT $ 28 5 1820 – 1830s Gowns 1826 Silk Best Gown 1820 Cotton Day Dress Large Collar Long Coat (Pelisse) Fashion evolved from the simple, Classical lines to a more Romantic ap- pearance. Ladies favored flared skirts, pretty colors and the new brightly printed cottons from American, Indian or English mills. Favored colors were turkey reds, brilliant yellows, and browns in many shades. Skirts grew fuller, and the high waistlines began to drop slightly. The silk dresses were elaborately ornamented with rich lace or self-fabric trims. The Pelisse is made of silk; its bodice and sleeves are lined in china silk. 1820 COTTON DAY DRESS $163 1826 SILK BEST GOWN $397 LONG COAT (PELISSE) $361 LARGE COLLAR $ 26 and up 6 Early 19th C. Underpinnings Basic Petticoat Bodice Petticoat Shift Most ladies wore at least Drawers one undergarment, a cot- ton Shift, an early name for a chemise. For under- Tucked Petticoat pinnings with a bit more bust support, choose the Bodice Petticoat instead. The upper portion is made of white coutil cotton for firm support. Previous generations of women had not worn drawers, and some of the gentlemen grumbled about women wearing the trousers. Order a pair of lace-trimmed cotton Drawers for another layer under your lightweight dress. By the 1820s skirts were growing wide again; order a Tucked Petticoat to help with the distinctive silhouette. For an 1830s impression, add a Basic Petticoat over it for more fullness. To support a fuller figure, or just for maximum drama in a low-necked gown, see the Stays on page 18. SHIFT $ 40 DRAWERS $ 42 BODICE PETTICOAT $ 66 BASIC PETTICOAT $ 61 TUCKED PETTICOAT $ 88 7 The 1830s Gowns 1834 Best Gown with Chemisette 1835 High Waisted Gown with Tucker Pelerine, Cuffs, and Belt The 1830s were the height of the Romantic Era in women’s fashion; sleeves and bonnets grew to extreme size. The 1835 High-Waisted Dress has a slightly high waist, gathered bodice, and very full sleeves. It is illustrated with a Tucker. The 1834 “Best” Gown has a slightly high, pointed waistline and very full sleeves. It is shown with a pleated or draped bertha trim and lace edging at neck and sleeve edges. The neck edges of all 1830s gowns are finished with narrow self-fabric piping, which was standard on clothing of the time (the piping added strength to hand-sewn seams.) The gowns were often worn with starched white collars called “Pelerines.” These added a charming, washable edge of soft white to frame the face. Matching Cuffs were basted inside the sleeve edge to protect the fabric and add a dainty finish. LADY’S 1835 HIGH-WAISTED DRESS $174 TUCKER $ 17 LADY’S 1834 BEST GOWN $369 CHEMISETTE $ 26 PELERINE AND CUFFS $ 59 8 1830–40s Men’s Clothing Waistcoat, Fall-front Trousers, Work Shirt, Cravat Our early 19th Century Frock Coat has the full skirt and close fit of the Gentleman’s Frock Coat, Shirt, time. It has hidden pockets Fall-front Trousers, in the coat tails and an inside Silk Cravat breast pocket, is made of wool, and is fully lined. A gentleman would wear this Coat over a Waistcoat and a snowy-white Shirt. A silk Cravat is worn at the neck, wrapped once around and tied in front. The Trousers have a dropped fall front with button closure. They are fairly close-fitting. The Gentleman’s Shirt has dropped shoulders, a tucked bib front, and a high standing collar. We also offer a Work Shirt in sturdy cotton. GENTLEMAN’S FROCK COAT $418 FALL-FRONT TROUSERS $130 WORKING MAN’S WAISTCOAT $ 79 GENTLEMAN’S WAISTCOAT $ 95 GENTLEMAN’S SHIRT $ 82 WORK SHIRT $ 61 SILK CRAVAT $ 28 9 The 1840s Dresses 1840s Ball Gown 1845 Long Waisted Dress This decade is sometimes known as the Gothic Era; it idealized womanhood and virtue. The clothing was more somber but made of beautiful silks and other fine fabrics. Skirts weren’t gathered to waistbands like the skirts of today. Instead, they were often cartridge-pleated, a labor-intensive process that produces hundreds of tiny pleats at the waist, and a nice fullness over the hips, making the waist look even smaller. The 1845 Long Waisted Dress has a tightly fitted, boned bodice and long waist pointed at center front. It is priced in a silk or fine wool fabric. It closes with hooks at center back. The bodice is tucked and trimmed from shoulder to waist and lined in cotton. The neck edge and lower bodice edge are finished with traditional self-piping trim. For day wear, a lady might add a white chemisette under the open neckline or a matching capelet with a small white collar. 10 1845 Day Dress Collar and Cuffs Chemisette Capelet Servants, farm wives and shop girls might wear the more practical Day Dress. It is made in one piece, gathered at the “round” waist, and fastened with hidden hooks in front. The bodice is lined. The sleeves are slim, but not so tight you can’t lift the baby or hang the wash.