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Virtual Reconstruction of Historical Men's Suit

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Virtual Reconstruction of Historical Men's Suit AUTEX Research Journal, Vol. 18, No 3, September 2018, DOI: 10.1515/aut-2018-0001 © AUTEX VIRTUAL RECONSTRUCTION OF HISTORICAL MEN’S SUIT Victor Kuzmichev1, Aleksei Moskvin2, Mariya Moskvina2 1Ivanovo State Polytechnic University, Textile Institute, 21, Sheremetev Av., Ivanovo, Russian Federation 2Saint Petersburg State University of Industrial Technologies and Design, Department of Clothes Design and Technology, 18, Bolshaya Morskaya Str., Saint Petersburg, Russian Federation E-mail: [email protected], [email protected], [email protected] Abstract: Nowadays, the virtual technology is being widely applied in the area of clothing design and try-on. However, the possibilities of these technologies cover only the contemporary marketable clothes, while the insight in the aspect of historical costume is very limited. In this research, we developed the method that allows to reconstruct and do the virtual try-on of historical men’s suit consisting from four different garments—trousers, shirts, vest, and coat. The method includes, on one hand, the analysis of pattern drafting systems, patterns construction, special means of bespoke tailoring that were popular in the history and, on the other hand, the way of its adapting and preparing to contemporary technologies of 2D and 3D design. The exploration was done with men’s suit and the patterns from the nineteenth century. We studied how the tailors took all measurements, the content of size charts including divisional, direct measurements, and its combination. To parameterize the historical patterns of men’s clothes, we created the schedule of special indexes. We developed the method how to identify the means of garment shaping by steam pressing, which are hiding in the patterns, and how to perform ones by darts. The preparation of historical patterns to virtual try-on was done by CAD. As example, the reconstruction of full-dress suite painted on the Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha’ portrait (1840) was done, and high adequacy between the historical prototype and the virtual suit has been proved. Keywords: Historical costume, reconstruction, VR, men suit, CAD, 3D 1. Introduction Virtual reconstruction is the second and parallel way of getting 3D images of historical costume. Technological platform for The reconstruction of historical costume is the new direction of the virtual reconstruction includes 3D methods of simulation of engineering design that can be applied in museums, theaters, and system “avatar—clothes” and try-on. Many scientists are doing cinemas. Famous designers very often have taken the historical an exploration in this area. costume as an inspiration for new clothes designing. Martin and Ko [25] described the methods how to shape the There are three objects saving the information about the 3D historical garments based on their pattern blocks and historical costume such as real full-size clothes, printed images, shown the possible areas of its application. Kang et al. [16- and full-size and small-size patterns that were published in the 18] did the exploration about virtual and real reconstruction illustrated books, the pattern-drafting books, and the pattern of historical costume. Magnenat-Thalmann developed the manuals. 2D or 3D objects mentioned have different content method of 3D modeling and simulating of historical garments related to outline shape, construction, and style. There are in different styles in according with textile materials properties many pictures, paintings, historical illustrations, engravings, [24, 40]. Cybulska [10, 11], Crowfoot, Pritchard, and Staniland and so on that have 2D images of historical costume in small, [9] studied the properties of textile materials used in the history real, or big sizes as the resources of important information and developed the process of virtual simulation. such as total view, silhouette, style, and different details. The pattern blocks that were created by measuring the garment But obtaining the information and databases aren’t enough or the body are the additional and technical-base supporting for the reconstruction of historical clothes, either as real or as resource of bespoke tailoring, main measurements, ways of virtual objects. For example, to reconstruct 3D garments, Arnold garment shaping, and so on. [5, 6], Thursfield [33], and Waugh [37, 38] used the pattern blocks from the modern manuals without the consideration of To do the real reconstruction of historical costume with high its drafting algorithm. precision, we should extract the information from each object and consider all objects together. For example, the results of Aldrich explored the different aspects of the tailoring such as reconstruction will be different if we have only the image printed the changing of measurements used in the history, the system or when we use the image and the patterns published together. of sizing, the pattern-drafting methods of men’s wear and http://www.autexrj.com 281 AUTEX Research Journal, Vol. 18, No 3, September 2018, DOI: 10.1515/aut-2018-0001 © AUTEX women’s wear, the anthropometrical methods, the size tables, the chosen costume can be supported by the published pattern and the ways of pattern drafting and clothes shaping that the blocks. tailors and the dressmakers have used in the history [3,4]. The second step “preparation of initial database” is devoted Muller and Sohn [21-23] have systematized the huge to the choosing and analyzing of pattern blocks by special information about the historical costume including pattern- indexes, body measurements and conditions of its taken drafting algorithms and studied the methods of pattern shaping from the body, and size charts used in chosen period of and sewing of historical garments by using the complex time. It’s necessary because the chosen prototype has not analysis of own real experience. published patterns. After this step, the full information should be completed about bespoke tailoring, system of sizing or So, to better understand the state of historical clothes’ shaping size tables, applying of measurements to pattern drafting and to use this database in 3D simulation, it is necessary to and construction, and system of pattern drafting (divisional know all aspects of male body morphology, pattern-drafting system, direct measurements for pattern calculation, or methods, pattern construction, and the relations in between. systems which combined the both, indexes for accurate Contemporary mathematical-based methods of pattern parameterization of pattern, etc.). construction can be put as the fundamental for accurate application of historical patterns in 3D CAD. This approach The third step “2D reconstruction” includes the adaptation of can help to avoid the subjective decisions during the virtual historical patterns to the similar positions of contemporary reconstruction and to get the realistic presentation of virtual patterns positioned in rectangular net and the evaluation of the garment. fabric deformations that are used to shape of the costume and its transformation during the manufacturing technology. The goal of the current study is to develop the method of virtual reconstruction of historical men’s suit into two categories, 2D The fourth step “3D reconstruction” includes the designing of and 3D. This method will use the information after complex an avatar in accordance with the measurements used in the analyzing of pattern-drafting manuals and its unification, the chosen period of time and virtual try-on simulation. The avatar body measurements, and its application in pattern-drafting, should be an exact replica of historical prototype that has to sewing methods of pattern shaping. The main criteria of virtual have real-looking image, the same body measurements, and reconstruction are the high reality of simulated system “avatar- morphological features. When the virtual system “avatar– clothes” and huge adequacy between a real prototype and a costume” is designed, it should be compared with the historical virtual simulation. The flowchart of the developed method of prototype to check the adequacy. There are two possible virtual reconstruction of historical costume, which is based situations that can take place after the comparison. If both on the costume’s image and adapted patterns, is shown in objects—the prototype and the virtual analog—have the Figure 1. significant differences and not equal to each other, the pattern’ indexes, body dimensions, and properties of textile materials Figure 1 shows five steps that should be done to transform the should be changed. historical image into the virtual system “avatar-costume.” The fifth step “3D virtual system avatar-costume” includes the The first step (named as 2D historical costume) is based on presentation of virtual system “avatar-costume” obtained with the 2D image of historical costume taken from the published authentic and realistic view as the initial prototype. books, journals, or paintings. The 2D image is the recourse from which the initial database could be built, such as the In our study, we investigated men’s full-dress suite of the period of time when the costume was designed, the basic body nineteenth century. This study includes a block patterns, styled measurements, the construction of garment, and the features patterns, 3D design and 2D pattern preparation, virtual garment of style to evaluate the costume fit from 2D image. Sometimes prototyping, and prototype image. 2. Preparation of initial database 3. 2D reconstruction Choosing of Not equal Equal historical costume"
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