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The Next Wave of the Suit-Era – a Forecasting Model of the Men’S Suit

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The Next Wave of the Suit-Era – a Forecasting Model of the Men’S Suit THE NEXT WAVE OF THE SUIT-ERA – A FORECASTING MODEL OF THE MEN’S SUIT Thesis for Master, 30 ECTS Textile MAnAgement JohAn Alfredsson LinA Augustsson 2017.15.05 Acknowledgements The authors would like to acknowledge some of the people whose participants and guidance ultimately has increased the value of this thesis. Firstly, the authors would like to thank the supervisor Jonas Larsson and participants of the supervision group, whose guidance, supervision, and engagement was essential upon the completion of this thesis. Secondly, Ingemar Albertsson, Alexander Marchesan, Hans Viktorsson and Erik Mannby must be acknowledged. Whose superior knowledge in menswear ultimately allowed this thesis to be conducted. Lastly, gratitude towards friends and family must be emphasised, as the support received by these allowed the authors to keep the spirit up throughout the writing process. Johan Alfredsson Lina Augustsson The Swedish School of Textiles June, 2017 i Title: The Next Wave of the Suit-Era – A Forecasting Model of the Men’s Suit Publication year: 2017 Author: Johan Alfredsson & Lina Augustsson Supervisor: Jonas Larsson Abstract Background By the beginning of the 20th century, the men’s suit entered the menswear market as one the most important fashion garments ever devised. At the same time, fashion became mainly a female engagement, resulting in an underrepresentation of men’s fashion through out the past decade. Relating to the textile and apparel industry, fashion forecasting has become an increasingly important business activity. But the nature of fashion forecasting and the historical neglecting of the men’s suit has created complications when performing this activity. Purpose The purpose of this thesis is to examine the men’s suit and its development from the given starting point in the 20th century until today, in order to derive a fashion forecasting model suggesting its development by 2029. Design/methodology/ This thesis uses an abductive research approach and qualitative approach multi-methods to answer the research questions. The usage of an intermediate research project answers the first research question. The second research question is answered through the synthesis of a literature study and semi-structured interviews. The third research question is answered through the derived forecasting model, accomplished through theory matching. Findings By carrying out a historical investigation of the men’s suit, and then applying this to the derived forecasting model, the men’s suit is expected to be found in both single- and double-breast styles. The suit will have classical features represented through the length, canvas structure, and shoulder construction. Originality/value This paper carries out a historical investigation of the men’s suit never been done before. It introduces an evaluation framework to categorise and classify the men’s suit, as well as a forecasting model followed by an actual fashion forecast. Keywords: Fashion forecasting, fashion forecasting model, men’s suit, history of the men’s suit ii Table of contents 1 Introduction .................................................................................................................. - 1 - 1.1 Background ....................................................................................................................... - 1 - 1.2 Problem discussion ........................................................................................................... - 2 - 1.3 Purpose .............................................................................................................................. - 4 - 1.4 Research questions ........................................................................................................... - 4 - 1.5 Definitions ......................................................................................................................... - 4 - 1.6 Delimitations ..................................................................................................................... - 5 - 2 Theoretical Framework ............................................................................................... - 6 - 2.1 The general steps of fashion forecasting ......................................................................... - 6 - 2.2 Making sense of historical literature - the Zeitgeist ...................................................... - 7 - 2.2.1 Trickle theories .............................................................................................................. - 8 - 2.3 Fashion forecasting methods ......................................................................................... - 10 - 2.3.1 Wave dynamics ............................................................................................................ - 10 - 2.3.2 Fashion curves .............................................................................................................. - 11 - 2.3.2.1 Fashion cycles .................................................................................................................. - 12 - 2.3.2.2 Pendulum Swing .............................................................................................................. - 13 - 3 Methodology ............................................................................................................... - 15 - 3.1 Research Design .............................................................................................................. - 15 - 3.1.1 Research philosophy .................................................................................................... - 16 - 3.1.2 Research approach ....................................................................................................... - 16 - 3.1.3 Research strategy ......................................................................................................... - 17 - 3.1.4 Research methods ........................................................................................................ - 18 - 3.2 Data collection ................................................................................................................. - 20 - 3.2.1 Literature ...................................................................................................................... - 20 - 3.2.2 Interviews ..................................................................................................................... - 21 - 3.3 Evaluation framework of the men’s suit ...................................................................... - 22 - 3.4 Data analysis ................................................................................................................... - 23 - 3.4.1 Coding .......................................................................................................................... - 23 - 3.4.2 Quantification of qualitative data ................................................................................. - 24 - 3.5 Research quality ............................................................................................................. - 24 - 3.6 Ethical considerations .................................................................................................... - 25 - 4 Empirical material ..................................................................................................... - 26 - 4.1 The Zeitgeist study ......................................................................................................... - 26 - 4.2 The Evaluation Framework of the men’s suit ............................................................. - 39 - 4.2.1 Canvas structures ......................................................................................................... - 39 - 4.2.2 Breast styles ................................................................................................................. - 40 - 4.2.3 Buttoning arrangements ............................................................................................... - 40 - 4.2.3.1 Sleeve buttons .................................................................................................................. - 42 - 4.2.4 Lapels ........................................................................................................................... - 42 - 4.2.5 Gorget ........................................................................................................................... - 43 - 4.2.6 Pocket styles and arrangements ................................................................................... - 43 - 4.2.6.1 Front panel pocket arrangements ..................................................................................... - 44 - 4.2.6.2 Inner pocket arrangements ............................................................................................... - 45 - 4.2.7 Vents ............................................................................................................................ - 45 - 4.2.8 Shoulder and armpit ..................................................................................................... - 46 - 4.2.8.1 Armpit .............................................................................................................................. - 47 - ............................................................................................................................................................. - 47 - 4.2.9 Length .........................................................................................................................
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