SKSBCTT3

Make handcraft/bespoke , or : completion and finishing

Overview This standard is for those who complete and finish trousers, waistcoats or skirts in . The job role may involve: 1 inserting zips and button closures 2 closing side seams 3 putting on waist 4 closing trousers, waistcoats or skirts 5 final finishing and pressing

SKSBCTT3 Make handcraft/bespoke trousers, waistcoats or skirts: completion and finishing 1 SKSBCTT3

Make handcraft/bespoke trousers, waistcoats or skirts: completion and finishing

Performance criteria You must be able to: You must be able to: P1 hand sew a variety of garment parts P2 machine sew/ overlock a variety of garment parts P3 check waist and inside leg measurements P4 make up fly and button holes, P5 add buttons and adjustment buckles P6 complete pockets and adjustments P7 sew linings P8 make and attach extra fittings as required P9 baste in back, lining and back straps P10 stay front scyes of waistcoat P11 close trousers and skirts P12 blind stitch hem of and trouser bottoms P13 baste and fell braid P14 complete final finishing, check and press P15 communicate effectively with colleagues and customers

SKSBCTT3 Make handcraft/bespoke trousers, waistcoats or skirts: completion and finishing 2 SKSBCTT3

Make handcraft/bespoke trousers, waistcoats or skirts: completion and finishing

Knowledge and understanding You need to know and You need to know and understand: understand: K1 a variety of fabrics and their suitable applications to construction K2 the application of suitable threads and interfacing for chosen fabrics K3 the principles of sewing K4 the range and application of seams, darts, zips and hand stitches K5 making accurate estimates of fabrics and materials K6 making accurate and detailed measurements K7 the company’s relevant quality standards K8 the company’s relevant rules, codes, systems, procedures and guidelines K9 health & safety in the workplace

SKSBCTT3 Make handcraft/bespoke trousers, waistcoats or skirts: completion and finishing 3 SKSBCTT3

Make handcraft/bespoke trousers, waistcoats or skirts: completion and finishing

Skills Hand stitch: 1. fly to -side and finish button-catch 2. front edges of waistcoat 3. pleats of skirt as required and around zip 4. back stitch seat seam from inside leg to fly 5. the seat-seam 6. double tacks at side pockets 7. ‘D’ tacks at hip and cash pockets 8. side-straps or elastic at back 9. pocket bags 10. curtain linings and finish side pockets 11. triangular tack at bottom of fly Machine sewing: 1. machine darts 2. button-catch to topside 3. fly lining to topside 4. side pocket facings 5. bands 6. pocket bags 7. insert zips 8. side-seams 9. waist-bands 10. waist-bands to trousers 11. hip pockets 12. back lining to waistcoat 13. skirt linings and insert 14. inside leg seams 15. hip pocket 16. in cash pocket facings 17. extra fittings according to style Finishing and pressing: 1. press open side-seams 2. press open inside-leg seam 3. press open waist-band seam 4. press open fly and button-catch seam 5. shrink leg shape

SKSBCTT3 Make handcraft/bespoke trousers, waistcoats or skirts: completion and finishing 4 SKSBCTT3

Make handcraft/bespoke trousers, waistcoats or skirts: completion and finishing

6. press open jetting seams in hip pocket 7. press side pockets 8. press the tops and seat seams 9. press linings and pocket bags 10. press the bottoms 11. press creases and legs 12. press whole garment 13. check trousers for ‘gloss’

SKSBCTT3 Make handcraft/bespoke trousers, waistcoats or skirts: completion and finishing 5 SKSBCTT3

Make handcraft/bespoke trousers, waistcoats or skirts: completion and finishing

Developed by SkillsActive

Version Number 3

Date Approved January 2012

Indicative Review December 2015 Date

Validity Current

Status Original

Originating Skillset Organisation

Original URN O46NBCTT3

Relevant Manufacturing technologies; Crafts, creative arts and design; Design Occupations Associate Professionals; Textile and Garment Trades

Suite Bespoke Cutting and Tailoring

Keywords Complete; finish; trousers; waistcoats; skirts; bespoke; tailoring

SKSBCTT3 Make handcraft/bespoke trousers, waistcoats or skirts: completion and finishing 6