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CREATIVE COSTUME DESIGN the Art of TV Costume Design Was the Focus of a New the Costumes Are up for Emmy Awards

CREATIVE COSTUME DESIGN the Art of TV Costume Design Was the Focus of a New the Costumes Are up for Emmy Awards

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$2.99 VOLUME 74, NUMBER 35 AUGUST 24–30, 2018 THE VOICE OF THE FOR 73 YEARS ALEZX BERLINER / AB IMAGES CREATIVE COSTUME The art of TV costume design was the focus of a new the costumes are up for Emmy awards. Above are the exhibition that opened at the Institute of Design & costumes from the TV series “Genius: Picasso,” the story of Merchandising in downtown Los Angeles. Many of Pablo Picasso. For more from the exhibition, see page 6.

TRADE SHOW REPORT Wide-Ranging Shows in Las INSIDE: European Brands Are Where fashion gets down to SM Vegas Keep Retailers Busy the Main Focus at FMNC By Andrew Asch Editor Sustainability and combining e-commerce with bricks- and- stores were topics that were front and center at Even though the Fashion Market Northern California the recent Las Vegas trade shows, which opened on Aug. 11 show was right after the big shows in Las Vegas, the three- and closed on Aug. 16. day event in San Mateo, Calif., was a time to focus on Eu- A number of seminars were held about sustainability, ropean lines. which was the focus of the Sourcing at MAGIC show at The Aug. 19–21 show was scheduled just before the Sep- the Las Vegas Convention Center. tember deadlines to place orders with European manufactur- Figuring out the right retail formula that blends online ers. with store sales was also a hot topic at more than 15 7 8 “It’s a strong market for European lines,” said Mary Min- trade shows that covered four different locations. ser, who owns the Mary Minser Sales showroom at The Traffic for many of the shows was even with last year, New Mart in Los Angeles. “If you have European collec- but retailers and buyers who attended were more committed Activewear category growing ... p. 2 tions that break now, the buyers are trained to buy it now. It to placing orders as the U.S. economy continues to expand. Surfwear making comeback ... p. 4 might be sold out by October,” she said. U.S. tariffs on Chinese clothing were on everyone’s mind Minser said that many European lines do not produce a and even kept a number of Chinese factories away from Surf and Active Resources ... p. 9 strong market for Immediates orders, which have been in- Sourcing at MAGIC. creasingly popular in the for the past few years. Our extensive coverage of the Las Vegas trade shows be- gins on page 3 and continues on pages 7–9. www.apparelnews.net ➥ FMNC page 2

01,2.cover.indd 1 8/23/18 5:20 PM ACTIVEWEAR According to The NPD Group, Athleisure Is Here to Stay—for Now

A recent report by The NPD Group shows combined with fashion, it’s difficult to go back 12-month period ending in June, total sweat- he noted. that 24 percent of total apparel sales are made to anything else on a regular basis.” shirt sales increased by double-digit figures Another driver in the athleisure category is in the athleisure segment. This formula, which blends comfort with and active bottoms grew 5 percent. The re- its accessibility and the large demographic it According to the global-information com- function, has become more popular as society’s port forecasts growth through 2019 in to- serves. The mainstream reach of athleisure is pany’s “Future of Apparel” study, active- outlook toward formal and casual dressing has tal dollars for sweat and active bottoms as due, in part, to its ability to attract consumers wear—including yoga pants, sweatpants and shifted. Many offices now observe a casual various activewear categories gain strength. of different ages and backgrounds. hoodies—has evolved into the athleisure trend, dress code, and, with busy daily schedules, While the athleisure segment continues to With the continued trend toward streetwear, resulting in the acceptance of athletic apparel consumers are searching for activewear pieces grow, Cohen said other areas of the apparel athletic apparel is going to remain an important that is appropriate to be worn outside the tradi- that can transition easily from strength training industry—including dress shirts, formal component in the wardrobes of trendsetters, tional gym setting. and stretch classes to social settings. trousers and tailored clothing—are seeing a which have been identified by The NPD Group “I’m often asked if the athleisure trend is “The athleisure movement and its influence decline, which he attributes to the continued as “social, fashion and image-conscious.” going to fade away, and the answer is no,” said on fashion continues to be a primary driver of popularity of activewear. “There is no doubt that the category will Marshal Cohen, chief industry adviser—retail growth for the apparel industry,” Cohen ex- “Other apparel categories are declining, continue to evolve, but it’s definitely here at The NPD Group, based in Port Washington, plained. which tells us that consumers are getting just to stay for the foreseeable future,” Cohen N.Y. “When you have comfort and function The NPD Group found that for the what they need and want in athleisure wear,” said.—Dorothy Crouch

Old Navy Boosts Gap Inc.’s Second- TRADE SHOW REPORT FMNC Continued from page 1 ters showroom said exhibiting at FMNC Quarter Earnings Results after working the Las Vegas shows can be At FMNC, Minser exhibited the European- exhausting. Same-store sales for Gap Inc.’s second sions. Old Navy’s same-store sales jumped designed line California Dress Company. After working the busy Las Vegas trade quarter of 2018 increased 2 percent com- 5 percent, Banana Republic’s same-store Along with European business, FMNC shows, Andresevic packed her six pared with the same period in 2017, said Art sales were up 2 percent, and Gap’s same- provided an alternate market for retailers racks into a van and drove 10 hours to San Peck, Gap Inc.’s president and chief execu- store sales declined 5 percent. who did not want to shop at the sprawling Mateo, setting up shop at the event. It was tive officer. During the second quarter, Banana Repub- Las Vegas trade shows, which ran Aug. 11– tiring but rewarding. “We delivered our seventh consecutive lic’s sales improved markedly, which helped 16, said Mary Taft, the executive director of “I opened up four new stores,” she said. quarter of positive comparable sales growth, the company’s overall sales results, said Teri FMNC. She introduced footwear and accessories led by the strength of Old Navy,” he said. List-Stoll, Gap Inc.’s chief financial officer. Jacqueline Stone, the Northern California brand Agave Sky at the show. Gap Inc.’s net sales for the second quarter “Our to increase productivity is funding sales rep for Canadian fashion line Sympli, This summer, Northern California has ending Aug. 4 were $4.1 billion, which was investments in the business to drive differen- said despite the small size, there is serious been hit by devastating brushfires, which up 8 percent from the same period last year. tiation and continued growth,” she noted. demand for the show. “Following right after have gobbled up 400,000 acres of land in Net income for the recent quarter was $297 The second-quarter results beat Wall Vegas makes it more challenging. However, Mendocino, Lake and Calusa counties. million, compared with $271 million for the Street’s estimates. A Thomson Reuters there is a loyal clientele. Buyers like this Vendors and show had not same quarter last year. survey of Wall Street analysts forecasted the show. Many of them don’t go to Vegas. I’m confirmed yet if the fires had caused a drop The San Francisco–headquartered spe- company would earn $0.72 per share during pleased with the quality of exhibitors and in buyer attendance, but a series of fires last cialty-store giant broke down global second- the second quarter, but the company earned quarter sales results from its three main divi- $0.76 per share.—Andrew Asch

Maruca Design Namsar

Two Old Bags Linda French & Company buyers who go to this show,” she said. year in Northern California’s wine country However, FMNC’s August event is the and Santa Rosa, Calif., caused buyer atten- smallest of the five annual shows at the San dance to decline during the October 2017 Mateo County Event Center. Taft said run of FMNC. the number of vendors and attendees was At the most recent show, a possible drop basically even with FMNC’s August 2017 in attendance was compensated for by bou- show—with about 120 vendors exhibiting at tiques from other parts of California, Weg- the show. mann said. FMNC is a sales representative–run, re- Retailers attending the show included 5th gional trade show that focuses on indepen- Street Clothing from Chico, Calif.; New dent boutiques from the San Francisco Bay Threads from Corte Madera, Calif.; Mill area to the Oregon border. However, bou- Street Clothing Co. from Grass Valley; tique owners from Northwest and Khakis from Sacramento, Calif.; Alaya in the West come to shop for categories such as San Francisco; B. Real from Carmel, Calif.; women’s apparel, footwear and accessories. Dazzle from Portland, .; and Route 66 Ute Wegmann of Ute and Jim’s Accesso- from Oklahoma City. ries said FMNC’s buyers were serious about Vendors making a debut at the show placing orders. “The show is lovely and casu- included Canadian brand Dex, which de- al. The pace is the complete opposite of what scribes itself as a producer of affordable lux- we experience at MAGIC,” Wegmann said. ury clothes for women. Italian brand Tricot Lynne Andresevic of the Crayola Sis- Chic also made its FMNC debut.

2 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS AUGUST 24–30, 2018 APPARELNEWS.NET

01,2.cover.indd 2 8/23/18 5:24 PM TRADE SHOW REPORT WWDMAGIC Creates Experiences for More Moves Toward U.S. Resources Bricks-and-Mortar to Align With Online During Sourcing at MAGIC As buyers and exhibitors grow increasingly At Unique Vintage—a Burbank, Calif., line At the Aug. 12–15 edition of Sourc- Supporting Soler’s point of view, Ar- interested in blending business with new expe- that specializes in re-creating styles from the ing at MAGIC, held at the Las Vegas trell Wilborn, co-owner of the So Pure riences, organizers are expanding the reach of 1920s through 1970s at wholesale prices that Convention Center, the aisles that led apparel brand, attended the show with WWDMAGIC by offering more ways for buy- average $49—traffic was good as the company through international suppliers seemed company President Christopher Cooke ers to learn and connect. showcased its collection, which included a Bar- quiet this year. to search for partners. “This time, instead of just focusing on blog- bie collaboration. Conversely, with its micro-factory, After walking the floor once, the men gers and social media, we went more toward a “This has been a really good show for us. The which showcased domestic-production reconsidered their approach to produc- women’s entrepreneurial collection and inclusive first day, we did more than what we did all three capabilities, the Made in America area tion after the event’s screening of and fashion,” WWDMAGIC Vice President Kelly days last time, so we’re feeling pretty good,” drew attention from designers seeking panel discussion covering “Riverblue,” Helfman said of the event, which took place Aug. founder and Chief Executive Officer Katie Eche- smarter pricing options. It was part of this a that reveals the damage caused 13–15 at the Las Vegas Convention Center. verry said. year’s focus of the show: sustainability. to global water supplies by traditional With e-commerce While shopping “Originally, I came apparel manufactur- growing, Helfman for Immediates and here thinking that I was ing. said buyers still need Fall, Lily May Trevi- going to deal with Chi- “Now, we feel a physical place to ño, owner of Linda’s nese manufacturers be- like we want to buy . “You can Boutique, found many cause it’s cheaper, but have a hands-on do a lot online, but options for her Laredo, after doing the math for approach with ev- when you’re buying Texas, business, which the shipping, it’s almost erything,” Cooke for your boutique and focuses on formalwear the same amount,” Nneka said before return- you want to deliver the and cocktail dresses, Bell, owner of the New ing to the show best product to your but she would like to York–based mobile shop floor. “When I go customers, you need see more accessories. The Celebrities Bou- back in there, I will to come to the show, “I like it so much tique, said after finding have a better eye touch and feel and because you have ev- a domestic manufacturer. for things,” Wilborn make sure it’s quality.” erything in one place,” At the Ürth Apparel added. “What I’ve This need to ex- she said. When asked booth, Alex Soler, founder seen here exceeded Unique Vintage perience the prod- about any brands that and of my expectations.” uct, while selling in a digital marketplace, was stood out during her visit, she said, “Ina—I like the Anaheim, Calif.–based Sourcing at the foundation of WWDMAGIC’s launch of its the brand, texture and . They have a nice company, offered product Indie Source MAGIC President new ON:LINE section. Powered by FashionGo, price for the quality they give us.” development and respon- Christopher Griffin this area allowed buyers to experience differ- At the Line and Dot booth, sales manager sible manufacturing to designers. While was pleased with the show and the ways ent brands by looking through approximately Heather Yoon reported a lot of business for her he promotes responsibility and transpar- it is bringing together decision makers 30 pieces from each line at the show but also Vernon, Calif.–based company’s Spring line ency, he feels the next generation of de- to solve problems within the industry. shopping the remainder of the collections online as buyers searched for bright colors, rainbows, signers and retailers will be more willing “We had a micro-factory installation through the FashionGo business-to-business e- jumpsuits and sets. to put preservation before profit. on the show floor. That is another area commerce platform—a perfect opportunity for “We’re showing Spring 2019, so basically “When you put that price point in we are going to continue to push be- emerging brands. we’re here to show our new collection and see front of them, a lot of times people will cause that is the flip side of sustainabil- “General feedback from our customers has what is working and what is not,” she said while go back on that desire for sustainability,” ity— for smaller footprints,” been pretty positive. They are really excited that discussing her line, whose wholesale prices aver- he said. “Young entrepreneurs and start- Griffin said. “The next 20 years in ap- we’re here,” Associate Alin Kim said. age $25 to $40. “Ninety-five percent of people up brands have been much more genuine parel production will be about making it “This is something that we’re going to be doing are writing the orders. I didn’t see much note tak- about it. They’ve had such a tremendous where it’s worn and being very close to for the next few shows, twice a year at MAGIC.” ing.”—Dorothy Crouch interest in what we do.” the consumer.”—D.C. Agenda Brings In the New and the Familiar The Aug. 13–15 run of Agenda at the Sands Expo and the announcement that Agenda and Liberty Fairs were graphics inspired by punk rock. The Sprayground doubled Convention Center was marked by moving to downtown Las Vegas next the size of its booth from one year ago, said James Farrell, change, but many of the show’s famil- February. the brand’s head of retail marketing. iar elements remained the same. By the second day of Agenda, the The show marked the first time that Rich Joe, a streetwear- As in the past, Champion ran a move didn’t seem to be a big issue on focused retailer that opened in the Glendale Galleria last sprawling booth where a crew of sew- the show floor. Many vendors had not month, walked the event. ers embroidered goods on gifts for heard the news. Others were too caught The shop’s co-owner, Rich Marshall, identified a few buyers. The Staple brand organized up in the show’s business. “The traffic Agenda trends he saw. “It’s interesting to see different color a theme booth, which featured a New has been good,” said exhibitor Freddie variations. There was pink, orange and royal-blue camou- York–style water tower, just as it has Rojas of Rojas Clothing. flage. It’s become a big fashion story,” Marshall said. “A lot ever since Agenda opened its first Las Also at Agenda was Dumbgood, a of rhinestones are coming into play. One thing that everyone Vegas show in 2014. brand showing streetwear silhouettes has picked up is that pastel and neon colors are going to be But the recent event was the first with graphics of Nickleodeon-channel here for a minute. Track pants have become the new standard time that the show’s new chief, Tony cartoons. Independent brand Learn for sweats. I see it in everyone’s collection. It’s an old silhou- Shellman, was in charge, marked by Patric Liu, left, holds a meeting at the to Forget exhibited T-shirts sporting ette that has become designer.”—Andrew Asch Soulstar booth at Agenda. Liberty Fairs Absorbs Capsule for Its 11th Las Vegas Show Liberty Fairs saw a number of debuts for brands attend- This was the first Liberty Fairs show to take place after the This fall, the brand is scheduled to open its first American ing the Aug. 13–15 show at the Sands Expo and Conven- show organizers acquired the Capsule trade show in April. boutique in New York City. tion Center. Liberty absorbed a number of Capsule’s vendors at the There also was talk about Liberty’s scheduled move to Danish denim brand Jack & Jones made its U.S. trade current show. Former Capsule vendors gave mixed reviews downtown Las Vegas next February. Gomez thought that if show debut at the event with a 600-square-foot booth. It also to exhibiting at the much larger Liberty trade show. buyers were already complaining about having to travel to sponsored Liberty’s Indigo lounge, where buyers could de- “Capsule was more intimate,” different convention centers now tail T-shirts and denim jackets. said Gil Gomez of the Black Cir- during the Las Vegas shows they Across the trade-show floor, Crooks & Castles, a veteran cle Agency. “Here, it is harder to weren’t going to like making a trip Los Angeles streetwear brand, made a return to the whole- find us. There was a bigger sea of to attend a show in downtown Las sale business with a booth. It had been selling its merchan- brands.” Vegas. dise on its direct-to-consumer channel since 2017. Brandon Svarc, founder and de- But Robert Myers, president of Also, the Japanese contemporary Aloha brand Mookie signer of the Canada-based Naked Pretty Great LLC, which owns Sato made its first foray to a U.S. trade show, being intro- & Famous denim label, also relo- brands such as SLVDR, hoped that duced by the Black Circle Agency showroom. cated from Capsule. Business was buyers would give downtown Vegas Retailers ranging from department stores Macy’s and good, he said, but his customers a chance. “It’s so much more afford- Nordstrom to high-end specialty stores such as Ron Rob- had to order from him at the trade able. There’s great food and bars. inson and Maxfield shopped Liberty, according to a Liberty show. “We don’t have a showroom Kristin Denae, director of sales for Benson, works There’s tons of great artwork. They spokesperson. in the U.S.A.,” he said. at the label’s Liberty booth. should go there,” he said.—A.A.

APPARELNEWS.NET AUGUST 24–30, 2018 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 3

03.magic.indd 3 8/23/18 5:31 PM SURF REPORT Good Times Might Be Coming Back for Surfwear Industry The surf industry might be catching a The tough times paved the way for a big wave for the rest of 2018, said market- comeback, said Joel Cooper, chief executive research company ActionWatch. officer of Lost International, the parent The group recently released numbers company of the popular surf brand …Lost. measuring the business at core surf and skate “The great thing about the surf industry is shops, which might be on track to show their that it never goes away. It’s cyclical,” Cooper best performance since 2014. That was said. “We’ve gone through bad times. It is the year that shops showed year-over-year slowly improving.” growth of 1 percent, said Patrik Schmidle, Some reasons for a rebound is the fashion ActionWatch’s president. cycle is turning back toward surf and more “If I had to describe the numbers for women are interested in the category than the ActionWatch panel [of retailers] in one before, Cooper said. Bankruptcies of major word, I would use the word ‘hope,’” Schmi- surfwear companies, including Quiksilver dle said. and Billabong, have forced the bigger com- Business for surf and skate retailers was panies to streamline operations and work steady at the beginning of the year. Then it more efficiently. stumbled in April because extreme weather After Quiksilver emerged from - across the Eastern seaboard seemed to have ruptcy, it renamed the company Boardrid- kept shoppers away. By June, business re- ers Inc. and acquired the troubled Billabong gained a bit of momentum, showing flat surfwear brand. growth compared to June 2017, Schmidle said. With bigger companies working to save

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Thu., Sept. 27, 5:30 – 8 p.m. COURTESY LOST INTERNATIONAL The interior of the ...Lost on Maui boutique, which recently opened at the Whalers Village retail The Chestnut Club center in Hawaii. Bright spots for surf and skate shops includ- their , there was more room for 1348 14th Street, Santa Monica, CA 90404 ed increasing interest in lifestyle apparel and entrepreneurs to introduce new brands, footwear products. Women’s apparel, footwear which paved the way for more variety at surf and wet suits enjoyed good sales with wet suits shops, Cooper said. showing single-digit growth so far in 2018, the “The business is coming back at a core Register at the TPC market-research company said. level. Maybe we’ve turned a corner,” he said. ActionWatch’s findings are good news for Lost might be benefiting from better tides www.theprofessionalclub.com the surf business, which over the past decade for the surfwear industry. It recently opened has been pummeled by high-profile bank- its second boutique in Hawaii, giving the ruptcies, changing tastes in youth fashion company seven full-price boutiques. and a new retail landscape. —Andrew Asch Big Thanks to Our Sponsors Calendar Aug. 24 Sept. 13 Sept. 17 Denver Apparel & Accessory Designers and Agents Texworld Paris Market Starrett-Lehigh and Cedar Apparel Sourcing Paris Denver Mart Lake Le Bourget Denver Through Sept. 15 Paris Through Aug. 27 Through Sept. 20 Sept. 15 Sept. 6 FAME Sept. 19 Surf Expo Moda Première Vision Orange County Convention Center Coterie Paris Nord Villepinte Orlando, Fla. Stitch @ Coterie Paris Through Sept. 8 Sole Commerce Through Sept. 21 IFJAG Sourcing @ Coterie Stewart Javits Center New York Through Sept. 17 Through Sept. 9 Sept. 16 There’s more Sept. 12 Midwest Apparel Trade Show on ApparelNews.net. Brand Assembly Embassy Suites 201 Mulberry Deerfield, Ill. Through Sept. 17 For calendar details and contact New York information, visit ApparelNews. Through Sept. 14 net/calendar.

Submissions to the calendar should be faxed to the Calendar Editor at (213) 623-5707. Please include the event’s name, date, time, location, admission price and contact information. The deadline for calendar submissions is the Tuesday prior to Friday publication. Inclusion in the calendar is subject to available space and the judgment of the editorial staff.

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4 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS AUGUST 24–30, 2018 APPARELNEWS.NET

04.surf.calendar.indd 4 8/23/18 5:43 PM A beach-to-street lifestyle brand

EMBLEM SHOWROOM MEDIA PLAYGROUND PR 310-420-0125 Kim 323-687-3360 [email protected] [email protected] New Mart Building Ste. 707 845 S. Los Angeles St. 127 E. 9th St. LA, CA 90014 LA, CA 90015

ParadiseRanch fp 082418.indd 2 8/23/18 6:15 PM ADVERTISEMENT EVENTS For the Waterman Lifestyle, FIDM Unveils the “Art of Costume Bluewater at Surf Expo Is Design” Ahead of Emmy’s 70th Anniversary the New Go-to Marketplace Bluewater at Surf Expo is the premier we love—being outdoors and enjoying platform for distinguished inshore and some good clean livin’.” The roots of offshore apparel and accessory brands Flood Tide lie in flyfishing, and images that are celebrated from the saltwater of all things aquatic inspire its distinctive to the sand and surf, as the companies and original T-shirt and cap graphics. below can attest. These exhibitors Fall 2018 continues the always-popular ALEX J. BERLINER / ABIMAGES chose Bluewater as a perfect fit for their “Good Clean Livin’” series products as products, showcasing their wares in a well as “Don’t Tread On Me” designs. The FIDM Museum, located on the tribute to how far costumes and costume de- dynamic space that offers networking New for Spring 2019 is a pair of shorts campus of the Fashion Institute of Design sign have come in terms of really being able opportunities and targeted exposure to that “we’re extremely proud of,” plus an & Merchandising in downtown Los Ange- to tell the narrative and story with TV and their ideal client base. If the waterman intriguing teaser: “We won’t dive into it les, and the Television Academy unveiled TV shows,” FIDM program lifestyle is your market, dive in to too much, but we’ve got a pretty sweet the 12th annual “Art of Television Costume co-chair Nick Verreos said. “We are really at Bluewater. ‘Surf ’n’ Turf’ shirt with a raccoon on it. Design” exhibition on Aug. 18. another level with costuming.” You’ll have to stop by to see that one!” This year’s exhibition stands out from The exhibition included Emmy-nomi- previous collections with the Sept. 17 nated costumes from nine shows includ- Calcutta Outdoors Emmy Awards ceremony celebrating its ing “The Alienist” (Michael Kaplan), “The Born in the back of a Florida bait- Heybo Outdoors 70th anniversary. Crown” (Jane Petrie), “Genius: Picasso” and-tackle shop over Heybo Outdoors is a brand “built “Heading into the 70th anniversary, really (Sonu Mishra), “The Marvelous Mrs. 25 years ago, Calcutta by doers for doers—people who kind of taking a step back and seeing where Maisel” (Donna Zakowska), “Outlander” Outdoors is on “a grasp the outdoors and all it brings to the state of the industry is—where the state of (Terry Dresbach), “” (Mi- mission to help you life.” Affordable, inspirational clothing costuming is today—it’s just amazing to us,” chele Clapton), “A Series of Unfortunate reclaim your free time and gear for the Maury McIntyre, presi- Events” (Cynthia Summers), and declare mutiny outdoors-obsessed dent and chief operating “Westworld” (Sharen Davis) on the mundane.” enthusiast is the officer of the Television and “Jesus Christ Superstar The company prides mission, and the Academy, said. Live in Concert” (Paul Taze- itself on offering collection is built “hardworking products on quality gear The annual FIDM event well). at a fair price,” aimed for use in the field drew Emmy Award nomi- Notable designs from pop- at a clientele who enjoys the outdoor life. and on the water nees, costume-design pro- ular shows such as “GLOW” With a distinctive skull logo testifying to and anywhere fessionals, industry insid- (Beth Morgan), “Grown-ish” its rebellious spirit, Calcutta produces a the outdoor ers and celebrities to honor (Michelle Cole and Mindy wide range of outdoor apparel and gear life can be celebrated. All apparel the extraordinary work on Tiongco) and “The Orville” for men, women, and kids, from shirts, is made to withstand “any and all display through more than (Joseph Porro) are also on boardshorts, headwear, and flip-flops to activities.” Heybo’s CORE regulating 100 costumes from 24 tele- display until the exhibition snorkel, kayak, and fishing gear; utility technology yields durable yet lightweight vision programs. closes Oct. 6. ALEX J. BERLINER / ABIMAGES bags and backpacks; and drinkware. performance apparel, with Performance “The exhibition pays “The Alienist” costumes —Dorothy Crouch Calcutta has big expectations for its Driven Technology featuring mesh high-performance series of Renegade panels and cross-vent flows for hard- and soft-sided coolers, as well as breathability and cool. At Bluewater, for its sunglasses collection, categories Heybo plans to showcase its women’s it believes will continue to grow. line, including leggings, performance and fishing shirts, fitted crewnecks, tri- blend hoodies, and headwear. Expected Costa bestsellers: the new Wanderer Quarter Costa customers take a “water- Zip and the Homestead Poly Button- centric approach to life—they live by our Down. mantra, ‘See What’s Out There!’” Known for its sunglasses, Costa also boasts an impressive array of apparel and Hooked Soul headwear for men and women, who The company’s name says it all. ALEX J. BERLINER / ABIMAGES ALEX J. BERLINER / ABIMAGES “use our products Hooked on fishing, the founders have ALEX J. BERLINER / ABIMAGES to enhance their been on many aquatic adventures, they “Grown-ish” costumes “A Series of Unfortunate Events” “Broad City” costumes adventures.” The say, “and of the various different brands costumes company goes to we have worn, nothing has stood up to great lengths to the quality of product we have designed deliver “authentic here at Hooked Soul.” They offer a content and product that messaging delivers in through our comfort and graphics, which style, striving provide market to “build differentiation.” At Bluewater, Costa emotional plans to launch its Spring 2019 graphics connections package, a collection featuring several with

surf- and beach-inspired graphics in customers BENJAMIN SHMIKLER / ABIMAGES its range of core, blend, and garment- through From left: Sonu Mishra; Cynthia Summers; washed Ts. Costa’s performance tops, inspiring product designs.” It’s the visual Hayma Washington, chairman and chief in inventory throughout the year, have difference that sets all their tops apart, executive officer of the Television Academy; Barbara Bundy, FIDM museum director; and ALEX J. BERLINER / ABIMAGES been a strong seller throughout 2018, along with such high-end materials as Sharen Davis and the company expects that trend to Pure Tech for their high-performance “The Orville” costumes continue in 2019 with additional styles shirt line, keeping everyone dry and and graphic infusions. comfortable on the water and off. Focusing on Fall and Winter lines, Hooked Soul has added a number of Flood Tide Company long-sleeve options along with “new and Paul Puckett, founder and owner exciting” hat designs and the promise of of Flood Tide great things for 2019. Company, is “a sporting artist,” The next edition of Surf Expo takes place meaning the at the Orange County Convention Center in company’s Orlando, Florida, September 6–8. apparel offers “great artwork and designs that www.surfexpo.com are comfortable ALEX J. BERLINER / ABIMAGES and embody what ALEX J. BERLINER / ABIMAGES “The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel” costumes “Westworld” costumes

6 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS AUGUST 24–30, 2018 APPARELNEWS.NET

06.FIDM.indd 6 8/23/18 5:35 PM TRADE SHOW REPORT New and Old Lines Exhibiting at Stitch Project Womens Takes Off With Lots Priscilla De Leon didn’t decide to exhibit While De Leon was a last-minute exhibitor, at Stitch, the womenswear show, until three Larry Palnick, the owner of the Krazy Larry of Business and Buzz days before the event opened at the Manda- label of women’s pants, has been showing at It was pajama-game time at Project Wo- including Stitch and WWDMAGIC. But lay Bay Convention Center. Stitch since it first opened at the Sands Expo mens for Ban.Do, a 10-year-old Los Ange- for the last three years, the company has But show organizers were able to squeeze and Convention Center in 2006. les accessories label that has been branching been at Project Womens, which has turned her into a modest booth in the back. Despite His brightly colored pants, which come out into lifestyle items, apparel and, now, out well. her less-than-ideal loca- in 64 solid colors and pajamas. Alanna Unkovich, the brand’s Western tion, she cinched eight 72 different prints, Ruthann Clawson, the brand’s merchan- region sales manager, said by Monday she orders her first day and wholesale for $49, $59 dise director, was wearing a long, bright had set up accounts with three new stores a half for her skintight and $69. “I only know pink-and-blue-stripe interested in the collec- dresses, which wholesale three numbers,” Palnick pajama top, which was tion, which is 100 per- for $100 to $150 under the joked. part of the company’s cent cotton and garment Priscilla’s Designs label. Even though the new woven sleepwear dyed. Wholesale prices De Leon started her bright pants displayed being introduced at the range from $20 to $50. made–in–Los Angeles line in his booth made for an trade show. “Tuesday was definitely only seven months ago, eye-catching moment, The bright colors of humming,” she noted. but specialty stores have traffic wasn’t brisk. the booth, dominated Most of the retailers been picking up the label, “The show has been by pink, added a girly she was seeing were which sells well in places okay. There are just too feel to the space, which from the Western region such as Miami Beach, Fla. many shows in Las Ve- contained planners with of the United States. One retailer from Houston gas,” he said. “But the stickers, desk items and Mododoc sees many of placed a very large order, retailers I have seen are greeting cards. The col- its East Coast clients she said. from all over, from Los orful array of items was at the Coterie show in The big draw to her Priscilla De Leon Angeles to the Midwest attracting a number of The Project Womens floor New York. booth was a mannequin at- to Dallas.” buyers. “The show here Over at the Hale Bob tired in a slinky dress adorned with sequins This was the fourth time at the show for has been great for us,” Clawson said. “This booth—filled with vibrant print tunics, tops, that outlined the V-shaped neckline. Next to T.ba, a Spanish line of women’s sophisti- has been one of our busier shows, and we kimonos and dresses—Cathy Cooley, the the mannequin was a stuffed dog wearing a cated linen clothing. “This show is better have been here at least three times.” Los Angeles contemporary company’s sales matching outfit that also had sequins around than last year,” said Mariane Schütz, a sales Casual-lifestyle apparel company Mo- manager, said she felt the show wasn’t as the neckline. manager with the company. “We are in a dodoc, based in Torrance, Calif., has been busy as the February show, but people were “This has gone so well,” De Leon said. better location, and Stitch is in a better loca- around for more than 25 years and has ex- still writing orders. “It has been good for “This line is really taking off.” tion.”—Deborah Belgum hibited at a number of the Las Vegas shows, us,” she said.—D.B. Pooltradeshow Attracts Creative Companies Matt Fellows is an artist who takes his sketches and transfers on, a Japanese retail chain. his Cali Good Life by them onto blank T-shirts, which wholesale for $16. He started The artsy vibe of the trade show was the perfect place for Al- Rex T-shirts, but this time his MNKR Brand label in Los Angeles 15 years ago and has ice Grau, the creative director for Global Mamas, a label that he was introducing his lat- been a regular at the Pooltradeshow ever since. works with African women who make hand-dyed batik gar- est creation, the Beverly The recent August show was his 22nd event, where he dis- ments, recycled glass-bead jewelry, handbags and shea-butter Hills Surf Club label, played his counterculture T-shirts, which carried messages such lotion and . All the clothing is made from organic cotton, which wholesales T-shirts as “Touch Nature,” showing a hand holding a bunch of pine which comes from a GOTS-certified supplier in India. for $15 and sweatshirt trees, or “Hit the Jack,” with a of a Volkswagen This was Grau’s third time at the show, where she has been hoodies for $35 to $38. van traveling through a Monument Valley–like scene. gradually reaching out to U.S. customers to build upon the “This show is an easy “This show is really fun and worthwhile,” said the curly- brand’s business in Australia and Europe. “Because we are new show to do. It gets a good Rex Tegelaar haired Fellows. “And there is no other art-driven show where to this show, it has been a slow build of customers,” she said. mix of people. There are a we fit in.” “But this show has been decent enough.” lot of Japanese buyers who come to the show, although I don’t He said he always exhibits in the same location so his cus- Rex Tegelaar has been coming to the Pooltradeshow for so see a lot of Europeans,” he said. tomers can find him. He gets buyers from small mom-and-pop long he remembers when it was an upstart, independent event He said he was seeing mostly boutique owners looking for stores to larger chains including Urban Outfitters and Right- centered around a hotel pool. For years, he has been showing something new and different.—D.B.

Curve Las Vegas The Tents Makes a Show for Designer Appeals to Retailers and Contemporary Menswear The Tents, the Aug. 13–15 boutique event booth ordered Fall merchandise. “We’re get- From Across the Country devoted to designer and contemporary mens- ting orders so late in the game. I’ve got to Loungewear and swimwear were front and wear brands, gave vendors at the Mandalay produce a lot earlier. You have to react a lot center at Curve Las Vegas, a compact show The Store at Curve Las Vegas Bay Convention Center a chance to catch quicker,” he said, noting that for the past few held Aug. 13–15 at the Mandalay Bay Con- not carry them at all. up on deals they had years many specialty vention Center. A few booths away, Francis Sango sat started at other shows. retailers have placed Around 115 brands were tucked away in surrounded by bright robes for men and “We saw a lot of their orders late. the back of the convention center, where a women made under the Paul Stuart label. people that we saw in New brands ex- lounge decorated with picnic tables, umbrel- The relatively new product is part of the retail/ New York,” said Di- hibiting at The Tents las and inflatable rafts gave the event a fresh, clothing maker’s expansion into other clothing ego Dominguez of the included Eleventy, seaside feel. and footwear categories. Baldwin brand. “We Monfrere, Holston One of the largest exhibitors at the event The robes are made on the third floor of also saw some new + Hayes and Ar- was Beachwear, the swimwear the company’s New York flagship, located accounts.” mor Lux, which maker in Cypress, Calif., which brought 17 on Madison Avenue. Sango attended the The Baldwin label exhibited the line’s labels—including La Blanca, Green Drag- Curve New York show in February, which recently moved to Los expanded cotton- on, Hobie, Maxine of Hollywood and Polo was “very strong,” and decided to test the Angeles from its long- Life After Denim booth linen program, said Ralph Lauren—to its large booth, where waters in Las Vegas. “We came to make time headquarters in Charles Arnett, the Cruise ’19 was the main seasonal focus. some new friends,” said Sango, who said the Kansas City, Mo. It also changed its focus brand’s U.S. sales manager. The company was just coming off of two robes wholesale for $267 and are made from from premium denim to more ready-to-wear. Also exhibiting were prominent brands other trade shows: the recent Swim Collec- Italian fabric. “People love the product,” she Other vendors at the show felt the pace of Bellroy, Billy Reid, Theory and Scotch & tive in Anaheim, Calif., and the July edition of said, adding that they have been a bit con- business was good. Mark Tourgeman, brand Soda. SwimShow in Miami Beach, Fla. cerned about the price point. director for the S.M.N. denim label, said the Danny Marsh, owner of Sy Devore, based “We like to be available wherever our cus- Not far away, Jennifer Briscoe, the U.S. first day was really good. “The second day in Los Angeles’ Studio City neighborhood, tomers shop,” said Katie Dawley, the com- boutique sales manager for the Italian-made was okay, and the third day was dead, like shopped The Tents and said the show’s fash- pany’s vice president of global sales. “We are Cosabella lingerie line, was seeing retail- every show.” ion trends showed change. “The trends are seeing a lot of our West Coast accounts at this ers from Canada, Mexico and across the He felt the quality of the stores attend- definitely casual lifestyle,” he said. “They are show and people from the Midwest.” United States. “Curve is always an amazing ing the show made the event worthwhile for definitely a little more relaxed, not as skinny The show is also a testing ground to see show for us,” she said. “The show has been S.M.N., which exhibited Spring ’19 and Im- and as buttoned up as they have been. Fabrics what swimwear designs are popular and de- pretty steady, and we have gotten some good mediates. seemed to have softened up a bit. Color is ciding whether to tweak them for Summer or leads.”—D.B. About 70 percent of the buyers at the making a bigger play.”— Andrew Asch

APPARELNEWS.NET AUGUST 24–30, 2018 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 7

07.magic.indd 7 8/23/18 6:29 PM TRADE SHOW REPORT The Collective Has Steady Business 2018 Scholarsh Sequined tuxedo jackets, rock ’n’ roll pick up a couple of new accounts and write T-shirts, belts and basics. The Col- regular customers,” he said. lective gave space to a myriad of different This was the second time that basics men’s styles when it ran Aug. 13–15 at the company Cotton Heritage, based in Com- Mandalay Bay Convention Center. merce, Calif., participated in the show. The Described as a market for “classic col- company exhibited women’s cotton/Modal lections to lifestyle-driven and licensed tops as well as a new fleece program made apparel,” the show was divided into three with a three-end yarn that gives fleece more neighborhoods. They comprised licensed apparel, including T- shirts, hoodies and socks bear- ing the name of a rock band or a popular movie, as well as traditional menswear, including suiting and slacks. There also was trend-driven young men’s apparel, which encompassed ac- cessories and footwear. Robert Arce, chief executive officer of Atom Age Industries Inc., based in Bellflower, Calif., has exhibited at The Collective since 2015. His company fo- cuses on licensed apparel with unique packaging. He said his show’s neighborhood was de- fined by business with indepen- The booth for the Switch and Mystiq brands at The Collective dent bricks-and-mortar stores, helping his stretch, a softer feel and better ca- FOR RESERVATIONS AND TICKET INFORMATION: bottom line. “Profit margins are higher,” he pabilities. It also showed a new men’s blank, (213) 688-6288 or [email protected] said. “Bigger stores tend to grind you down which is a light burnout that has a soft hand PLEASE MAKE CHECKS PAYABLE TO: in price.” and vintage look. California Fashion Foundation | 444 S. Flower Street, 37th floor, Los Angeles, CA 90071 Both Arce and Brandon Reder of private- Ken White, the company’s vice president CARDS ACCEPTED label manufacturer PNW said the show of sales, said the show was good. Cotton The California Fashion Foundation is established as a 501(c)(3) California Public Benefit Corporation Tax ID: 95-4677121 seemed smaller this season. Some big, li- Heritage was seeking retailers with whom 444 South Flower Street, Los Angeles, California 90071 Tel: 213 688 6288. Fax: 213 688 6290 censed-apparel exhibitors such as Mighty they could build private-label business. “At- email: [email protected] Website: www.californiafashionassociation.org Fine did not have a booth this season. tendance seemed to be down a bit,” he said. However, Reder said business at the show “It was quality above quantity. We had very was good. “It compressed a bit. We were good meetings with very good accounts, still able to write business. We were able to which made it worthwhile.”—Andrew Asch

Project: Big Show and New Sections

Project introduced new sections to the flight jackets; lifestyle label Publish Brand; sprawling Aug. 13–15 show devoted to and African-American skate brand The Rad men’s styles at the Mandalay Bay Conven- Black Kids. tion Center. Danish-label Knowledge Cotton Appar- Get Inspired! One neighborhood was called Project el made its debut at the show. Mads Mørup, Golf. It was dedicated to athletic and lifestyle the brand’s founder, said that the show’s wear inspired by a game defined by sports he- business was good. “The quality of the peo- Hundreds of Stocked roes such as Tiger Woods and Arnold Palmer. ple who came along was high,” he said. But Novelty Knits, Among the 11 brands exhibiting in this he had hoped for more buyer traffic. Wovens, Linings section were Huntington Beach, Calif.– Jay Ko showed his New York–headquar- and More! headquartered Travis Mathew as well as tered brands Jomo Harujuku, James Tatter- sall and Kings Cross. A significant part of his busi- One Roll Minimum. ness is producing private- label clothing for retailers, www.cinergytextiles.com which has been increas- Tel: 213-748-4400 ing in the past few years [email protected] and on which he focused at Project. “Before, they would want your brand. Now they want private la- Apparel News Group WEB PRODUCTION PRODUCTION MANAGER bel,” Ko said. MORGAN WESSLER KENDALL IN Project offered show- CREATIVE MARKETING DIRECTOR EDITORIAL DESIGNER LOUISE DAMBERG JOHN FREEMAN FISH floor real estate for a DIRECTOR OF SALES AND MARKETING CREDIT MANAGER myriad of categories, 731945-2018 TERRY MARTINEZ RITA O’CONNOR ranging from men’s suit- Seventy-three years of news, SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE fashion and information AMY VALENCIA PUBLISHED BY ing, scores of denim ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE TLM PUBLISHING INC. CEO/PUBLISHER brands such as Levi’s and LYNNE KASCH TERRY MARTINEZ APPAREL NEWS GROUP Paige, hats, underwear, BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Publishers of: DANIELLA PLATT California Apparel News contemporary styles, and EXECUTIVE EDITOR MOLLY RHODES Waterwear Decorated almost anything else that DEBORAH BELGUM SALES ASSISTANT/RECEPTIONIST Project’s N:OW section was introduced at the recent show. RETAIL EDITOR ASHLEY KOHUT EXECUTIVE OFFICE can be placed in a ward- ANDREW ASCH ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANTS California Market Center Original Penguin Golf and Lacoste, which robe. ASSOCIATE EDITOR CHRIS MARTIN 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777 originally made its name as a tennis brand. Danny Marsh, owner of the Sy Devore DOROTHY CROUCH RACHEL MARTINEZ Los Angeles, CA 90079-1777 SALES ASSISTANT (213) 627-3737 EDITORIAL MANAGER New York–headquartered Psycho Bunny, boutique in Los Angeles’ Studio City neigh- PENNY ROTHKE-SIMENSKY Fax (213) 623-5707 JOHN IRWIN Classified Advertising Fax which offers an irreverent brand identity, ex- borhood, said that the show’s sprawl could CLASSIFIED ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES CONTRIBUTORS (213) 623-1515 hibited an expanded collection of golf shirts. be overwhelming. “Sprawling is okay. It ALYSON BENDER ZENNY R. KATIGBAK JEFFERY YOUNGER www.apparelnews.net VOLKER CORELL [email protected] Another new section was N:OW, which was a big space,” Marsh said. “But it com- JOHN ECKMIER CLASSIFIED ACCOUNTING JOHN McCURRY MARILOU DELA CRUZ focused on streetwear and emerging brands. pletely lacked focus. You’re trying to appeal ESTEVAN RAMOS PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. It is where San Clemente, Calif.–headquar- to so many different styles of stores and cus- TIM REGAS & RESOURCE SECTION N. JAYNE SEWARD JUNE ESPINO tered label Stance introduced its first line tomers. Everyone has their own need. You HOPE WINSBOROUGH NATALIE ZFAT of T-shirts. Among the 16 other exhibitors can’t have a show that size and scope and were Alpha Industries, which focuses on make everyone happy.”—A.A.

8 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS AUGUST 24–30, 2018 APPARELNEWS.NET

08.Magic.indd 8 8/23/18 6:21 PM TRADE SHOW REPORT Surf and Active Resources Paradise Ranch Designs Bargain-Basement Prices Bring Orders to Offprice Emblem Showroom The New Mart, 127 E. Ninth St. Discounters, retailers and boutiques were facturer was also promoting his Western-in- Rudes said. “Everybody wants great deals, www.paradiseranchdesigns.com looking for below-wholesale steals during fluenced line to buyers from Colorado, San great quality and immediate deliveries. Contact: Eveline at Offprice, which ran Aug. 11–14 at the Sands Diego, Texas, Oklahoma and North Carolina. People are looking for specifics. They have [email protected] Expo and Convention Center. “Over two days, I have 10 new customers,” a shopping list.” or (310) 420-0125 At the D&L Apparel Ltd. booth, the Chi- said Dany Separzadeh. While he was excited Despite the deals found at Offprice, the Products and Services: Kris Goddard’s designs for Paradise to sell the Western-influenced line, he didn’t show was high on the list for some buyers Ranch deliver what she promises—fresh shapes with a vibrant, cago-based company’s vice president, Bran- youthful appeal yet offering comfortable coverage on the top and don Cooperman, reported a lot of business lose sight of his mission at the bargain-orient- who just wanted to gauge the climate for bottom. Paradise Ranch goes bold with prints, an array of exuber- at his booth, constructed with wood displays ed show. new inventory. After arriving from Mary- ant tropicals mainly sourced from Italy and France, with solids that offered a welcoming, general-store atmo- “From jackets, blous- land for his third year, produced in the United States. The line’s success has enabled sphere. “In this show, I’ve probably had the es to coats, I come to sell Greg Branch, who owns Goddard to start buying print designs exclusive to Paradise Ranch. most appointments that I’ve ever had,” he said. leftovers,” he said. “I Talley Ho DRB Sports- Beyond the bright look, Paradise Ranch is also developing a loyal give them better prices. wear, explained that customer base for its smart silhouette choices and Goddard’s Following a positive trend that began a few meticulous attention to fit details. “My collection is meant to be seasons ago, he reported that his various labels They take it from here.” this show was his first multifaceted,” Goddard notes. “It’s more than just swimwear—it’s of men’s, women’s and children’s apparel and At the Get Lucky stop to search for small wearable to many places, it’s interchangeable, it makes for easy accessories were popular, but Levi’s jeans and booth, buyers from quantities, such as hats packing. That’s the mainstay of what we’re doing that makes us Tommy Bahama were receiving the most at- Ross Dress for Less, and jackets. different. It’s coverage but still sexy.” Paradise Ranch Designs tention. Winners and smaller “If it does good, I can has been recently photographed on some of the brightest young boutiques sought deals just call the company and Hollywood talent like Miley Cyrus in Vogue, actress Amanda Cerny, “Pretty much, if they see something they singer Ashanti, and entertainer Chloe Lukasiak. like, they’re writing it,” Cooperman said. on women’s evening get more,” he said. “That “Previous shows, they would take notes, may and resort pieces. way, I don’t buy some- or may not come back. The last couple of “We’re getting a thing that doesn’t do well Surf Expo shows—if they see it, they like it, they write lot of mid-range bou- and I am stuck with it. It’s www.surfexpo.com it.” tiques, a couple of more bang for the buck Products and Services: Surf Expo is the largest and longest-running Not only were there opportunities to sell the big guys come because I also have an watersports and beach/resort/lifestyle trade show in the world. Produced annually in January and September, the show draws buy- overstock from Los Angeles–based Fantazia, through,” sales rep- embroidery company.” ers from specialty stores, major chains, resorts, cruise lines, and but the owner of the misses apparel manu- resentative Michael Display at the D&L Apparel Ltd. booth —Dorothy Crouch beach-rental companies across the U.S., the Caribbean, Central and South America, and around the world. The show features more than 2,500 booths of hard goods, apparel, and accessories and a full lineup of special events including fashion shows, annual awards ceremonies, and demos. More information about Surf Expo can be WWIN Does Well for Boutique Business found at their website. Reporting more than 500 first-time attend- Lexington, Mich., with attendance This listing is provided as a free service to our advertisers. ees, the Aug. 13–16 Womenswear in Nevada placed orders for Im- about even with one We regret that we cannot be responsible for any errors or omissions within Surf and Active Resources. (WWIN) show at the Rio All-Suite Hotel & mediates, Fall, Win- year ago. Exhibitors Casino connected retailers with exhibitors ter and Spring, which were sitting with from misses and contemporary brands. will allow her to have buyers and writing Long-showing brands at the twice-a-year peace of mind and orders well past the “The WWIN audience, the boutique buyer, event experienced busy days on the show floor. be prepared in early show’s close. boutiques are hot right now. People like to shop “I am very satisfied at every show,” said IC 2019. New to the event and browse—discover new things,” she said. Collection owner Connie Kye, who manufac- “Usually, I don’t was the Fashion “Shopping local is in now, more in than it has tures her clothing in Los Angeles and counts come here in August, Show & Social, and been in the past.” department stores such as Dillard’s and Von but this year I did. I organizers intro- Los Angeles–based M Showroom’s Jenni- Maur among her clients. In addition to her wanted to check it out duced their Buyer fer Backoff was taking orders for Fall, Holiday IC Collection booth loyal clientele, who were placing Spring ’19 because I come every Concierge Club and Spring from buyers who traveled to the orders, Kye said she opened some new retail year in February. They program to connect show from the Midwest and West Coast to see accounts. “I have new customers because have unique things and pricing is reasonable,” exhibitors and buyers. For her market, Han- brands such as Olive Hill, Paparazzi, Luii, I put the display outside [in the corridor]. It she said. “I am very satisfied. When I see it and son recognizes the power of e-commerce but Fredd & Basha and Zaria. With wholesale helps a lot.” if I feel it’s going to work for me, I’ll get it.” knows that the consumers who shop with her price points ranging from $24 to $130, Back- Shopping for her women’s apparel boutique Desiree Hanson, vice president of fashion exhibitors enjoy frequenting bricks-and-mortar off had pricing, style and color options to suit The Town Shoppe, Regina Roegner from events for Clarion UX, reported a busy show locations. different consumers.—D.C.

APPARELNEWS.NET AUGUST 24–30, 2018 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 9

09.magic.serv.dir.advert.indd 9 8/23/18 6:20 PM CLASSIFIEDS

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TRADE SHOW REPORT THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR Ron Robinson at 40: LA Market Sees Showrooms The Big Issue of and Stores Adjusting to the Microfibers in AB 2379 New World Vision… ‘New Normal’ in Retail By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor Old School Values By Andrew Asch, Deborah Belgum and Dorothy Crouch By Andrew Asch Retail Editor Los Last month, state Assembly member Richard Bloom intro- Buyers fanned out to the various showroom in the duced Assembly Bill 2379 to the California State Legislature. Ron Robinson said the late 1960s were an exhilarating Los Angeles Fashion District, which for wasthe Marchhighlighting 12–14 the run of The bill would require manufacturers of clothing that comprises time to be in the retail business in Los Angeles. That year he remembered watching rock star Janis Joplin Angeles Fashion Market more than 50 percent polyester to include a label recommend- for Fall/Winter 2018. ing consumers bypass the washing machine and handwash perform on stage, and then a few weeks later he saw her The market’s three days of activity were punctuated by the these items instead. browsing at the Fred Segal store where he worked. The late 1960s and 1970s were a golden era for the Fred arrival of President Donald Trump,in downtown whose Los entourage Angeles, stayed creat- at It is Bloom’s hope that spelling out these instructions will InterContinental Hotel lead to increased consumer awareness of the potential environ- Segal store, which launched many trends. It shaped the way the Ron Rob- ing a constant traffic jam that started Tuesday afternoon and mental threats he says occur from synthetic microfiber shed- Los Angeles dressed and was a pioneer in Los Angeles’ re- ended Wednesday morning. ding. tail scene. At this market, many showroom owners felt buyers were “Some of the [bill] advocates think that we should be mov- In 1978, Robinson started his own self-named store at the Fred Segal compound on Melrose Av- only visiting the brands they felt comfortable with and not ex- ing toward more draconian solutions, like banning synthetic inson ploring untested labels. Attendee traffic throughout the district clothing. Those would have greater consequences that don’t enue. Four decades later, Ron Robinson expanded to two was hit and miss, depending on the building and the showrooms make sense,” said the Democrat, whose district office is head- 5,600-square-foot flagships—one in Los Angeleswww.ronrobinson. and an- as e-commerce takes a chunk out of sales that had once been quartered in Santa Monica. “We need to become more aware, other in Santa Monica, Calif. , traffic was slower than The company also runs an e-boutique at allocated only to boutiques and stores. continue the research and take reasonable steps to reduce the ➥ Ron Robinson page 8 ➥ LA Market page 6 Assembly Bill 2379 page 3 . This year marks the 40th anniversary of Ron Robinson. At the California Market Center amount of microfibers in our aquifers➥ and go where the re- com

Making Tall Women New Owners of American Tellason: A Rare Find Comfortable in Their Apparel Set Goal to in the Denim Industry Double Sales This Year By Deborah Belgum Executive Editor Own Skinny Jeans Ever since theTellason brand was has launched been one in of San those Francisco rare clothing near- By Deborah Belgum Executive Editor Gil- ly 10 years ago, companies that only uses American raw materials for its col- By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor called one of the label’s It has only been a little more than one year since lection of menswear blueCone jeans. Denim acquired the intellectual-property rights of So when supplier When women who measure at least 5 feet 9 inches tall dan Activewear , the decades-old Los Angeles apparel shop for denim, they are often left feeling as though styles American Apparel cofounders last October, the sales rep asked if he was sitting such as flares or skinny jeans will end up resembling cropped company that twice declared bankruptcy in a little more than down. The news was that Cone Denim was shutting down gauchos or capris. Midheaven one year. its White Oak denim mill in North Carolina in a few months Standing at 5 feet 11 inches, former model and actress At its peak, American Apparel’s revenues climbed to and would no longer be able to supply Tellason with its sel- Kathryn Brolin decided it was time to launch nearly $634 million in 2013 before the long descent of the vage denim. White Oak was the last U.S. supplier of selvage Denim to provide solutions for other tall women who want company founded by Dov Charney in 1989. denim made on old wooden looms. to find their ideal denim. Gildan took formal control of American Apparel in Feb- “The day they announced their closure did not surprise “Midheaven targets tall women like me who are looking ruary 2017 and had a little more than one month to ramp up me,” said Tony Patella, the co-owner who was called. “What for inseams a bit longer than what is usually found out there, new production and then get the label in front of wholesalers surprised me was that we were their fourth ➥largest Tellason customer page 3 but we’ve been so pleased to see that women of even average and consumers again. In that first year, Gildan took in $50 for all their denim, and we are not that big.” heights are ordering and absolutely loving their Midheav- million in sales. This year, the goal is to double sales to $100 ens. So, they’ve been rolling, they’ve been hemming, they’ve million. been self-altering their jeans.” page 3 Key to boosting revenues is the marketing team, which is SM ➥ Midheaven ➥ American Apparel page 3 : With a soft launch of four styles in January, Brolin is aim- located in Los Angeles even though Gildan is headquartered INSIDE Where fashion gets down to business

: SM 7 SM INSIDE INSIDE: Where fashion gets down to business Where fashion gets down to business 5 MEDIEVAL TIMES RUNWAY READY 3 Fernando Alberto was one of several 4 8 Woodbury ’s students revealed some of the New Hudson Jeans president ... p. 2 2 designers who showed during New York 7 fashion designs they have been working on during April Retail Sales ... p. 2 New CEO at St. John Knits ... p. 4 GAME OF FASHION the academic year. For more looks, see pp. 6–7. New apparel event ... p. 9 Law firm departs Guess ... p. 2 Fashion Week. For more looks, see page 6. Agenda names new executive ... p. 2 Trade Shows 2018 ... special pullout section This ethnic look created by Los Angeles Gap pushes factories to digital ... p. 2 Bachrach stores close ... p. 3 Gap earnings up ... p. 4 www.apparelnews.net designer Nathalia Gaviria was seen at Art Understanding PLM ... p. 3 August Chow MR Magazine sold ... p. 9 Resource Guide ... p. 9 CORELL VOLKER Hearts Fashion during Los Angeles Fashion Resource Guide ... p. 9 Week. For more looks, see page 8. www.apparelnews.net www.apparelnews.net

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