CHINA, VIETNAM IMPORTS SURGE/8 WOMEN’S NEW MIND-SET/12 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheWEDNESDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • May 14, 2003 Vol. 185, No. 99 $2.00 Sportswear The Mod Squad NEW YORK — Move over, Austin Powers. Mary Quant’s vision of fashion is back this season as fresh Mod looks take over for fall. Here, at left, cotton dress and boots from Marc by Marc Jacobs. Paco Rabanne’s polyamide and elasthane leggings. Christie Martin earrings. At right, Jill Stuart’s cotton jersey turtleneck and wool jersey dress. Stephane Kélian boots. Kangol hat. Selima Optics sunglasses. For more, see pages 4 and 5. AGEMENT; STYLED ANTONIA BY SARDONE AGEMENT;

Spring’s Cold Start: Wal-Mart Strong but Others Suffer in Qtr. By Evan Clark the retailers kicking off the first- able to boast of double-digit earnings NEW YORK — Consumers apparently quarter earnings season Tuesday, as growth and a high-single-digit sales are watching their wallets even more were J.C. Penney Co., The May increase, it sent a cautionary chill closely than retailers are minding Department Stores Co. and TJX through the apparel markets with its their inventories. Cos. While the world’s largest discussion of rising stock levels and Wal-Mart Stores Inc. was among company, unlike its competitors, was See Rough, Page 10 PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO; MODELS: EMILY/ELITE, PHOTO CAROLINE/SUPREME; JOHN BY HAIR AQUINO; ERIC BY MODELS: SEBBAG, EMILY/ELITE, MAKEUP ROANNA,BY BOTH FOR WARREN TRICOMI MAN 2 WWDWEDNESDAY Sizing Up SARS’ Impact Sportswear By Miles Socha impact,” according to Claire Goldman Sachs retains a cau- GENERAL , MAY 14, 2003 Kent, chief luxury goods analyst tious view on the sector despite PARIS — Will the luxury goods at Morgan Stanley in London. the end of the war in Iraq and Designers are recalling the flirty and colorful looks of London’s Chelsea in business recover quickly from “With non-Japan Asia hit by promising signs that SARS could 4 the carefree Sixties, and this fall, the Mod trend is ladylike, cool and sexy. the impact of SARS? Or will the SARS and Europe hit by lower be contained. But Dossin warned Wal-Mart was among retailers kicking off the first-quarter earnings season deadly epidemic, which has al- tourism, probably the more re- that “SARS could once again be- 1 Tuesday, boasting double-digit profit growth and a high-single-digit sales increase. ready claimed some 550 lives silient parts of the world for lux- come a serious problem in the in- and infected more than 7,400 ury are Japan and the U.S.” fluenza season later this year, and Analysts are debating the impact of SARS on the luxury sector, and await people, afflict the sector for Kent noted that in general, luxury goods news flow is likely 2 clues as firms start reporting sales and earnings this week.

WWD, WEDNESDAY months to come? watch and jewelry firms “have a to worsen, particularly given re- China and Vietnam muscled out foreign competitors in the first quarter and Investors will be looking for fueled the overall growth in apparel and textile imports. fresh clues this week. Hermès 8 and Bulgari are slated to report SUZY HAS THE DAY OFF first-quarter sales today, and SARS could once again become a Bulgari has already warned that “ Classified Advertisements ...... 15-19 the SARS outbreak would cause serious problem in the influenza season To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is it to miss its financial targets [email protected], using the individual's name. this year. later this year, and luxury goods news SUBSCRIPTION RATES LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. Vuitton, slated to hold its annual flow is likely to worsen, particularly given All others U.S., daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information/Single Copy Sales : (800) 289-0273; shareholders’ meeting Thursday, outside U.S. (818) 487-4526; new group subscription information 212-630-4196 is also expected to give an up- retailers’ large inventories. Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional date on recent sales trends. In — Jacques-Franck Dossin,” Goldman Sachs issue every month except July, and two additional issues in April and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc. reporting first-quarter sales last a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., month, LVMH said only DFS was a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. impacted by SARS and that higher exposure to non-Japan Asia tailers’ large inventories.” No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be sales of Louis Vuitton products than leather goods companies.” Also, “any further spread of expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 were advancing at a double-digit In a report last week, Gold- SARS, particularly to Japan, Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. rate in early April in Hong Kong, man Sachs analyst Jacques- could seriously jeopardize luxu- Mailed under Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 517054. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 one of the cities hardest hit by Franck Dossin said 2003 earn- ry goods sales, in our view.” Printed in the U.S.A. the disease. ings could be down by as much To be sure, travel flows with- All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. Luxury analysts are divided as 23 percent in his worst-case in Asia are down sharply, by as on the medium-term impact of scenario because of reduced much as 35 to 40 percent in For Web site access, log on and subscribe to www.WWD.com. the health scare, but acknowl- travel flows caused by SARS, April, according to Goldman edge that non-Japan Asia has war, terrorism risks and a dim Sachs estimates. A 50 percent been hit hard in recent weeks. economic outlook. The invest- drop is forecast for May. Sources said sales have been ment firm estimates that travel Goldman Sachs acknowl- In Brief down by as much as 50 percent purchases account for 33 per- edged the difficulty in estimating for some high-end brands. cent of luxury sales, with Gucci the duration of all the risk fac- “In general, we expect sales and LVMH being most depend- tors, but concluded that if all fac- FRENCH ISSUE: French retailer Pinault-Printemps-Redoute in non-Japan Asia to be down 25 ent on travel purchases. The tors were to have an impact for said Tuesday that it was launching a $977.5 million bond issue. The to 30 percent in [the second “travel spend” in Asia accounts three months, it would result in a issue could be increased to $1.09 billion if the company exercises quarter], but this also incorpo- for 7 percent of total luxury 10 percent swing in earnings. its increase option and to $1.25 billion if the overallotment option rates a negative exchange rate sales worldwide. Continued on page 11 is exercised. Dollar figures are converted from the euro at current exchange rates. In a statement, PPR chief executive Serge Weinberg said the offer allows PPR “to diversify its source of fi- nancing, to reduce the average cost and extend the average matu- rity of its debt and, potentially, to strengthen shareholders equity.” PPR said the premium range of the bonds was set at 43 percent of its share price at the time final terms of the bonds are determined. The bonds will come to term four years and 255 days from the set- tlement date, expected to be May 21. PPR, controlled by tycoon François Pinault, has been reshaping its profile this year, shedding its business-to-business activities to concentrate on its higher mar- gin luxury and retail operations. PPR controls Italy’s Gucci Group.

UP FOR GRABS?: It seems less likely that Tchibo will evolve from a minority to a majority shareholder in Beiersdorf, maker of Nivea. According to reports circulating Tuesday, Tchibo Holding AG’s chief executive officer, Reinhard Pollath, said the chances of the firm’s acquiring Allianz’s 43.6 percent stake in Beiersdorf “look narrower.” Tchibo executives could not be reached for com- ment. It has long been known that German coffee- and retail-con- cerned Tchibo wanted to add its 30 percent stake in Beiersdorf to that of German financial services company Allianz. If Tchibo — considered the front-runner — doesn’t bid for Allianz’s stake, the field would again be wide open for other takeover bidders. In the past, suitors reportedly included Procter & Gamble and L’Oréal.

SARS SLAMS TORONTO RETAILERS: Revenues in Toronto’s retail sector dropped $43.7 million from the period of March 5 to 30 to the March 31 to April 25 time frame, according to a study on the economic impact of SARS released Friday by Toronto-based Moneris Solutions Corp., a processor of debit and credit card transactions. U.S. dollar figures are converted from Canadian dol- lars at current exchange rates. The study also concluded that over- all retail transactions in Toronto declined by 4.4 percent. During the latter period, the Greater Toronto Area experienced a spike in SARS cases and the World Health Organization recommended travelers avoid nonessential trips to the city. The study was based on the volume of debit and credit card transactions Moneris processed on behalf of approximately 30,000 merchants. WWDStock Market Index for May 13

Composite: 108.03 Broadline Stores: 109.50 Softline Stores: 103.55

-1.20 -1.82 -0.57

Vendors: 105.90 Textiles: 109.32 Index base of 100 is keyed to closing prices of Dec. 31, 2002. 0.21 -0.48

WWD, WEDNESDAY, MAY 14, 2003 4

The Paco Rabanne’s plastic and metal dress. Christie Martrin earrings; Agatha bracelet. Agatha earrings; Martrin Christie dress. metal and plastic Rabanne’s Paco ▲

od

Squad M Burberry’s cotton sateen dress. Christie Martin necklace; Stephane Kélian boots. Kélian Stephane necklace; Martin Christie dress. sateen cotton Burberry’s ▲ ▲ Versus’ woolboucléandleather dress.Agathacuffbracelets.Chairavailable atTroy. hip-hugging pants. cutout dressesandsexy into ladylikeminisuits,cool Mod trendcanbetranslated are alittlelessdaring,fall’s Butforthosewho shift? dress oratinpaillettemini plastic andmetalchain what girlwouldn’twanta all, Sixties thisseason.After Chelsea inthecarefree looksofLondon’s colorful recalling theflirtyand NEW YORK — Designers are

▲ Anne Klein's camel and cashmere coat and wool, nylon and spandex turtleneck. Anne Klein hosiery; Selima hat; Marc by Marc Jacob Marc by Marc hat; Selima hosiery; Klein Anne turtleneck. spandex and nylon wool, and coat cashmere and camel Klein's Anne s boots. s

OMI MANAGEMENT; FASHION ASSISTANT: ANAMARIA GARCIA; STYLED BY ANTONIA SARDONE ANTONIA BY STYLED GARCIA; ANAMARIA ASSISTANT: FASHION MANAGEMENT; OMI

5 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MAY 14, 2003 TRIC WARREN FOR BOTH ROANNA, BY MAKEUP AND SEBBAG ERIC BY HAIR CAROLINE/SUPREME; AND EMILY/ELITE MODELS: AQUINO; JOHN BY PHOTOS

Right: Charles Chang-Lima’s wool and rayon suit. Stephane Kélian boots; Selima Optics glasses; Ro bag. Chair available at Troy. at available Chair bag. Ro glasses; Optics Selima boots; Kélian Stephane suit. rayon and wool Chang-Lima’s Charles Right: ▲

Left: cuff; Kangol Kenneth Cole’s wool sweater and cotton pants. Earrings by Christie Martin; Agatha hat. ▲ 6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MAY 14, 2003 WWD, WEDNESDAY,

Diane Von George Jones Bruce Klatsky Valerie Steele George Jones Bruce Klatsky Furstenberg AAFA Picks Five ‘Image’ Leaders By Scott Malone The emcees for the evening are to be Paula Zahn of While the industry’s image has improved over the past CNN, and Paul Charron, chairman and chief executive 25 years, honorees admitted that it still has some problems. NEW YORK — In the quarter century that has passed since officer of Liz Claiborne Inc. Other special presenters All nominees are working to improve the image of the American Image Awards began, a lot has changed about will include R. Brad Martin, chairman and ceo of Saks the fashion business by making structural changes with- the way the U.S. public perceives the fashion industry. Inc., and actress Bebe Neuwirth. in their respective fields. Designers have achieved celebrity status and their Jones joined Saks Inc. as president and chief executive From the retail point of view, Jones said one of the names appear on everything from clothing to pens to bed of the Saks Department Stores Group, which includes the key image problems the image faces is consumer confu- sheets, and major newspapers and magazines now follow Parisian, Proffitt’s and McRae’s chains in March 2001, sion brought on by tiers of sales and seas of coupons: the runway shows almost as closely as they do major trials. after a seven-year stint at Warner Bros., where he oversaw “We’ve created a situation in fashion throughout stores But the industry and the concept of design has also the retail and licensing businesses. Prior to that, he where from a customer standpoint we’ve made it really begun to be taken more seriously. worked at retail chains including Target, Dillard’s hard for them to understand our pricing....The customer Valerie Steele, one of the people who will be hon- Department Stores and the now-defunct Roses Stores. just doesn’t have a lot of confidence in the prices she ored at Monday night’s ceremony, recalled that when Klatsky has worked at Phillips-Van Heusen for more sees out there being great value.” she began her graduate studies at Yale in 1978 — the than 30 years, was named ceo in 1993 and took on the The biggest image problem to arise over the past two same year the awards were first held — many people chairmanship in 1994. Last year, he successfully orches- decades, according to Klatsky, is labor. sniffed at her decision to focus on fashion history. trated the company’s acquisition of Calvin Klein Inc. “Clearly, there has been a lot of notoriety about work- “At that point, people weren’t studying it in a scholarly The Belgium-born Von Furstenberg began designing in ing conditions around the world,” he said. “We have a way,” recalled Steele, who today is the director of the the Seventies and rose to fame on the strength of her wrap major responsibility to be sure that our product is pro- Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in Manhattan. dress, which landed on the cover of mainstream publica- duced in a great environment and that we are actively “The professors mostly thought of it as a ridiculous topic, tions including Newsweek and the Wall Street Journal. In involved in societies where we produce to be sure that an absolutely despicable, frivolous topic to work on.” recent years, she’s expanded her brand’s reach to include these societies can evolve just the way the U.S. evolved.” Steele, who is to receive the Artistry of Fashion Award categories like licensed luggage and eyewear. Further, in a time of economic uncertainty, part of at the ceremony at Manhattan’s Grand Hyatt Hotel, is one Steele was promoted last week to the post of director the industry’s challenge is to ensure that its products of five people to be honored by the American Apparel & of the Museum at FIT, after serving as chief curator are sufficiently appealing to lure even jittery con- Footwear Association. The AAFA is also lauding Saks since 1997. She is widely cited as a fashion authority by sumers out into the stores. Inc.’s George Jones as Retailer of the Year, Phillips-Van major publications and broadcast outlets and has writ- Von Furstenberg said that’s where the substance of fash- Heusen Corp.’s Bruce Klatsky as Man of the Year and ten more than 12 books about fashion. She holds a Ph.D. ion takes precedence over the industry’s aura of glamour. Diane Von Furstenberg as Designer of the Year, as well as in modern European, cultural and intellectual history. “American fashion is really about how you put prag- Dana Reeve, who is up for The Spirit of a Woman Award. AAFA president and chief operating officer Kevin matism and style together,” she said. “By the mystery The event will raise money for the Christopher Burke said: “One of the things the American Image way of giving them [consumers] what they want. And in Reeve Paralysis Foundation, which funds medical re- Awards does is reward those who have contributed greatly the end, it’s all about product. Something that will search into developing treatments for paralysis. to the apparel industry and to the community in general.” tempt them to buy.”

in which genetic material from a paralyzed person is transferred into an unfertilized human egg. That egg is then cultivated to produce stem cells — the most basic Reeve: Progress in Paralysis Fight human cellular material, which can be grown into nerve tissue. NEW YORK — Dana Reeve recalled that after her hus- aggressive experimental treatments that doctors have For many years, nerve tissue was regarded by scien- band, actor Christopher Reeve, injured his spine in a developed over the past eight years — partly because tists as nonregenerative — while a broken bone mends May 1995 equestrian accident, the message from his of financial support from the Christopher Reeve itself, severed nerves tend not to. That meant that heal- doctors was bleak. Paralysis Foundation. ing nerve damage, like spinal-cord injuries, was re- “The original prognosis The couple founded the garded as all but impossible. was…that he had no movement or Christopher Reeve Foundation in The problem is that the somatic nuclear transfer sensation below his shoulders, nor 1996, “primarily to deposit checks process, which is commonly called therapeutic cloning, would he be expected to regain we were receiving that we weren’t has “been lumped together with reproductive cloning,” any,” she said. going to cash for our own use,” Reeve explained, adding, “there is a huge difference The case was seen as hopeless. Dana Reeve recalled. A couple of between the two.” That assessment wasn’t just ap- years later, it merged with the The key difference being that unfertilized eggs are plied to her husband. The medical American Paralysis Association used in therapeutic cloning, which does not produce or profession as a whole regarded pa- and adopted its new name. Since aim to produce human beings. tients with spinal paralysis as peo- then, the foundation has given out “Stem cells are the body’s own repair kit,” Reeve ple who didn’t really have a chance $30 million in grants to fund re- said. “Everybody has them. Harvesting and applying of improvement, she asserted. As a search into paralysis and $2.5 mil- them is the key.” result, little research was done lion in smaller grants to communi- However, the use of egg cells is closely regulated, into potential treatments. ty groups that want to improve the which limits the research possibilities, she said. “The current thinking at the quality of life of paralyzed people. Despite the political and scientific obstacles, the time was that with a spinal-cord in- For her efforts in attracting pub- foundation will push on in trying to improve the future jury, that was it, and there was no lic attention to the issue of paraly- of people with spinal injuries, just as Christopher possibility of improvement,” she sis and encouraging new research Reeve continues to make breakthroughs in his treat- said in a phone interview last into the topic, Dana Reeve is to be ment, his wife said. week. “The sense was that meant honored by the American Apparel Despite the obstacles, she said he is making life in a wheelchair.” & Footwear Association at next progress and recalled one breakthrough moment in Today, Christopher Reeve can Monday night’s American Image therapy when Reeve was suspended in a harness over feel touch over much of his body, Awards, where she will receive the a treadmill. While his legs can’t support his weight, can move some of his fingers as Dana Reeve group’s Spirit of a Woman Award. when the treadmill is turned on, they do show some ev- well, can move his arms and legs Today, one of the biggest chal- idence of what’s called “muscle memory.” while submerged in water and, in the breakthrough lenges facing advancements in the treatment of spinal “They start the treadmill and the legs start to go,” she that most impressed his wife, can walk on a treadmill injuries is political, Dana Reeve said. The most prom- said. “He can’t walk, but the legs start to go. It’s stunning.” when supported by a harness. All of this is the result of ising area of research is somatic cell nucleus transfer, — S.M. 7 In the Mainstream Provence WEDNESDAY,WWD, 2003 14, MAY IN THE MIDDLE D’amour ATTAINING ITS PROVENCE: Provence D’amour launches for fall with a line that features a contemporary look at a misses’ fit and price Searching for Trends at Shows point. Wholesaling for $55, the sportswear line includes a variety of looks from a simple By Kristin Larson tative, Terri Kurland, said bookings at the black cashmere sweater to an embroidered Industry (212) show were strong. suede and knit jacket. It also includes hand- NEW YORK — Retailers shopping the Industry “There are just so many junior lines out there knit shawls, available in camel and black. (212), Moda Manhattan and Annex trade shows and the misses’ customer doesn’t know where According to Ruby Almeda, an account here last week were looking for the next big she fits in,” Kurland said. “So we feature gar- executive for the firm, many accessories trends for fall. ment-dyed fabrics in styles designed to fit this stores have already picked up the shawls. What they found were trends that were all woman. We call it ‘lifestyle.’ Business is up 40 to “There are so many women out there who across the board, said one retail executive at the 50 percent from the last show.” love the look of contemporary clothing, but Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, where the Alec Izarov, designer at NY77, which showed cannot fit into them,” she said. Industry and Moda shows took place May 4-6. at Moda Manhattan, said people were buying a Mostly targeting specialty stores, Almeda Annex, a smaller version of Designers & Agents, lot of sweaters, tops and separates in shades of said the company expects $4 million in the staged its second Manhattan edition May 5-7 in a brown and black. first year at retail. sunny loft space at The Starrett-Lehigh Center “Everybody who stops is buying, but it is slow,” on West 26th Street. Izarov said. “We’re doing really well with coats. LIZ STREAMLINES: Liz Claiborne Inc. has announced several promotions within “The Industry show was great for items, but I Overall, we’ve done about $500,000 in volume. We the recently consolidated Liz Claiborne Casual, Collection and Woman divisions. walked both shows looking for emerging trends. won some new accounts and saw some old ones.” Aru Kulkarni, formerly a vice president and general manager for the casual For instance, I really liked the cute T-shirts by Meanwhile, a mixed array of 25 exhibitors division, has been named president of special sizes, overseeing Bella-Chic — they would be great with jeans. showed at Annex, including hat designer Tracy merchandising and sales of the Liz Claiborne woman and petite brands. Just a really cute top,” said Key Hunter, fashion Watts, T-shirt maker Christina Lehr, Dulce Bags Debbie Martin has been named vice president, group creative director of Liz forecaster at Macy’s East. “At Moda, the theme and Balamani. Claiborne brands. Martin joined the company in 2001 as vice president of seemed to be hats. Hats in different styles, felt “It’s been a great show,” said Susan product development and design for the casual division. hats with leather trims and in different shapes Eisenberg, vice president of sales at Calypso by Kate McKee, formerly vice president of brand concept, research and and not with traditional applications. Christiane Celle, which is known for its breezy, development for the casual division, has been named vice president of group “Every show is different but it’s very impor- pastel-colored clothes. “Buyers love that it’s product development and design. Maryann Ficarra has been named vice tant to attend all of them to see what everyone is open and airy. Overall, we booked close to president, group merchandising director for Liz Claiborne brands. In her new showing. You try to be prepared, but if the $120,000 for the show.” role, Ficarra will take on the Liz Claiborne collection merchandising, as well hottest rap artist wears something that’s the next D&A co-founders Ed Mandelbaum and as retail planning for wholesale accounts. She was most recently vice big thing — that can blow your six-month plan Barbara Kramer said they are committed to pro- president of merchandising and joined the company in 2000. out of the water.” ducing a tightly edited show, featuring designers Store owner Patricia Timm of St. Tropez bou- with a “point of view.” TANNER DESIGNS’ NEW PRESIDENT: Catherine Schepis has been promoted to tique in Virginia Beach, Va., was perusing the Mandelbaum said the show “could have been president of Tanner Designs, where she will oversee the business, design and two Javits Center shows for sweaters and fall five times bigger,” but the organizers “are com- merchandising of the Doncaster and Elana divisions. More than 2,000 items with a “fresh” twist. mitted to making sure the taste level and quality wardrobe consultants sell the women’s sportswear and plus-sized apparel “My store is like a mini-department store,” are up to our standards and we want people to lines in private trunk shows held each season in their homes. Timm said. “I do everything from denim to ac- walk away and say ‘what a great show.’” Schepis was previously senior vice president of merchandising and design, cessories and dress a customer 15-years to 50- Kramer added that a lot of the companies don’t where she helped reposition the 73-year-old Doncaster brand to attract a younger years old. But I’m really going toward comfort have a New York showroom and use the D&A venue clientele while maintaining its customer base. Schepis works out of the company’s clothing and items that are very casual and com- as a place to meet with retail representatives. design studios in Manhattan and reports to Pell Tanner, chief executive officer of fortable. Business has been good, though, so I She added: “We want to make sure when buy- Tanner, whom she replaces as president. Before joining Tanner in 1998, Schepis can’t complain.” ers walk the show, like an art display, what they held senior merchandising positions at Liz Claiborne and Anne Klein. Better sportswear line Kiko’s sales represen- see is a clear and concise image.”

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P:: 212.764.8989 F: 212.764.9332 WAITEX.COM [email protected] For further information or to arrange an appointment: 525 7TH AVENUE, 2ND FLR. NEW YORK, NY 10018 1410 Broadway, #3103, New York, NY 10018 • t.212-997-4737 f.212-997-2449 • [email protected] 8 China and Vietnam Imports Executive Technology Continue Massive Surge Neiman’s Upgrades Client Connection By Kristi Ellis WASHINGTON — China and Vietnam muscled out foreign competitors in the By Brad Barth first quarter and fueled the overall growth in apparel and textile imports. Phillip Maxwell In the quarter ended March 31, imports of all textiles and apparel rose DALLAS — The Neiman Marcus Group is shift- 18.6 percent to 9.83 billion square meters equivalents against the same peri- ing its clienteling process to where it truly od in 2002, according to the Commerce Department’s report released Tuesday. belongs — the front end. Apparel imports rose 20.8 percent in the same period to 4.55 billion Through a new point-of-sale system and a new WWD, WEDNESDAY, MAY 14, 2003 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SME, while textile imports rose 17.3 percent to 5.28 billion SME. application for clienteling, which involves the “The essence of the first quarter’s jump is the continuing flood of im- keeping of detailed records of customers’ prefer- ports of Chinese textiles and apparel that are no longer subject to quotas,” ences and personal information, Neiman’s is said Donald Foote, director of the agreements division at Commerce’s piloting a joint solution for breathing new life Office of Textiles & Apparel. into customer services. For months, China and Vietnam have led the pack in accelerating the “It certainly makes it easier for sales associ- growth in imports, although Vietnam is a much smaller supplier than China. ates than it was in the past, when they had to go The two neighboring countries figured prominently in the overall import growth. to a remote PC in the back room to do clientel- The textile industry is concerned about China’s growing dominance and ing,” said Phillip Maxwell, senior vice president two trade groups renewed the call Tuesday for reimposing quotas on sever- and chief information officer of Neiman Marcus. al apparel categories. The pilot test of the new solution, from “We are having a massive import surge,” said Augustine Tantillo, Cornell-Mayo Associates, Parsippany, N.J., Washington coordinator for American Manufacturers’ Trade Action kicked off earlier this year, incorporating three Coalition. “The U.S. government has the ability to do something about the of the retailer’s 35 Neiman Marcus stores. major component, which is China, but they are sitting on their hands.” Maxwell expects the company to push ahead Eight months ago, the American Textile Manufacturers Institute asked with a chainwide rollout, including the Bergdorf the Bush administration to reimpose quotas on five apparel and textile im- Goodman women’s and men’s stores, later this port categories from China that had been lifted as part of the gradual year. The Bergdorf ’s and Neiman Marcus stores phaseout of World Trade Organization-member quotas by 2005. are divisions of the Neiman Marcus Group. In response, Grant Aldonas, undersecretary for international trade at Neiman’s earned its reputation for quality cus- Commerce, told mill executives at the ATMI’s annual meeting on April 3 tomer service in large part by developing a rapport with shoppers through personalized interactions. While many high-end retailers have long practiced The safeguard mechanism was clienteling with paper-based systems, Neiman “ Marcus had been using its own homegrown, back- developed several years ago and office clienteling application for almost a decade before finally deciding to replace it. Neiman’s is testing there should have already been a The new solution takes this tradition to the a new system for next level, allowing employees to quickly input better service. process in place. Right now we are and access customer information at POS termi- nals on the sales floor. Meanwhile, the retailer waiting for just the process, not even gets the efficiencies and added functionality he or she was looking for at the point of sale. a decision on our request. “We felt that this was a very good answer to ” both questions,” said Maxwell. “This was an — Parks Shackelford, ATMI opportunity to go to one vendor and get an inte- that the administration would shortly issue guidelines for how to file a re- grated solution.” quest under a safeguard provision negotiated in 1997 as part of China’s Maxwell expects the clienteling software to accession to the World Trade Organization. provide Neiman Marcus — whose employees That was one month ago and those guidelines still have not been issued. place follow-up thank-you calls to customers after “The safeguard mechanism was developed several years ago and there purchases — with an array of proactive selling should have already been a process in place,” said Parks Shackelford, opportunities. For example, said Maxwell, if a new tiative that is personalizing customer interac- president at ATMI. “Right now we are waiting for just the process, not even Prada handbag comes in, associates will be able to tions on the marketing front. Until recently, the a decision on our request.” identify and contact customers who purchased retailer was collecting its own proprietary cus- Jim Leonard, deputy assistant secretary of textiles, apparel and con- Prada merchandise over the last 12 months. “It’s tomer information and combining that with addi- sumer goods industries at Commerce, said the draft of the China safeguard easier to go in and query that information,” he tional data gathered by third-party service procedures is being reviewed. said. “I can decide if I want to do some calling or providers. But late last fall, Neiman Marcus “Even though this is a [Committee for the Implementation of Textile send some cards or whatever, to let the customer implemented a consolidated customer data Agreements] process, other people are asking questions and we are answering know that new items are coming in.” warehouse, which the company is now looking to them because this is China and China is very important,” Leonard said. “We The solution also provides associates with integrate with all of its sales channels. have briefed both administration people and interested parties on the Hill about POS-based access to customers’ specific alter- As a result, “all of our [marketing] activities the draft of the procedures and we continue to answer questions about it.” ation and shipping instructions. are now fed from this consolidated customer data Julia Hughes, vice president of international trade at the U.S. In a future phase, sales associates may fur- warehouse,” said Maxwell. “We’re pulling all Association of Importers of Textiles & Apparel, said the safeguard mecha- ther leverage the company’s clienteling applica- information out of a single point of reference.” nism should be reviewed on a case-by-case basis. tion by cross-selling or up-selling merchandise, To enable this change in strategy, Neiman “We continue to see categories of trade going to China from other Asian sup- based on shoppers’ preferences, during face-to- Marcus not only built its own data mart, but also pliers and not necessarily from U.S. producers,” said Hughes. “There has to be face customer encounters. implemented an additional data warehousing solu- an explanation of how Chinese shipments are harming domestic manufacturers.” While results from the pilot are too early to tion — specifically for customer campaign manage- The import surges prompted U.S. officials to take action against report, Maxwell did confirm that Neiman ment — from Teradata, Dayton, Ohio. For more in- Vietnam late last month with a quota-setting bilateral textile agreement. Marcus is seeing returns from a new customer depth CRM analysis, the retailer also introduced a The agreement, which went into effect May 1, imposes quotas on 38 ap- relationship management/data warehousing ini- business intelligence solution from Business parel and textile categories and limits the value of Vietnamese apparel im- Objects, Levallois-Perret, France, last year. ports to about $1.7 billion in the first 12 months. Editor’s Note: This article is reprinted from the Maxwell said the volume of customer infor- Meanwhile, apparel and textile imports from Vietnam and China contin- March 2003 edition of WWD’s sister publication mation flowing through the data warehouse is ued to soar in March and in the first quarter. Executive Technology. already “twice what we estimated it would be.” Imports from China swelled 125.1 percent in the first quarter to 1.6 billion SME, while imports from Vietnam rose 877.9 percent to 196 mil- HERTER CAROLYN BY PHOTO MAXWELL lion SME in the first quarter. For March, imports from China rose 110.8 percent, while imports from last year. Grupo Xtra later liquidated under Vietnam rose 565 percent compared with March 2002. Overall apparel Chapter 7 bankruptcy. and textile imports in March rose 17.4 percent to 3.2 billion SME. Suppliers Sue Adamson Kellwood Co. last week announced its acquisi- In textiles, China dominated first-quarter trade with man-made fiber LOS ANGELES — Four trim suppliers have filed an tion of the XOXO license from Global Brand furnishings such as blankets, quilts comforters, curtains, drapes, luggage, involuntary petition against manufacturer Holdings (which is buying the brand from Aris), handbags and tents, according to Foote. Adamson Apparel Inc., seeking about $100,000 in and will begin shipping in October. China and Vietnam also saw big gains in apparel import growth. with unpaid invoices. Adamson attorney Michael Novicoff, who said China accounting for 31 percent of the first-quarter increase and Vietnam In the notice filed May 6 in U.S. bankruptcy he still hasn’t been served with the case, added making up 21 percent. Seven other countries together took up an addi- court here, Downtown Button & Supply Inc.; that he filed a motion in court Tuesday morning to tional 28 percent of the first-quarter growth: Honduras, Cambodia, Express Tags and Labels Inc.; Tagtime USA Inc., dismiss the claim in its entirety. “It appears to us Indonesia, India, Pakistan, the Philippines and El Salvador. and Direct Label & Tag LLC all claim payment that this is a litigation tactic by a creditor of our Of note, some other foreign suppliers held their own against the two hasn’t been received for delivered merchandise to predecessor licensee [Grupo Xtra], and these Communist countries in the apparel and textile trade. Imports from Adamson, principally owned by Arnie Simon. creditors are upset they can’t get money from Honduras rose 21.9 percent in the quarter, while imports from India grew “These are creditors that have had ongoing re- Grupo so they’re trying to get money from us in- 20.8 percent and imports from Canada rose 6.8 percent. Imports from the lationships with Adamson and are past due and stead,” Novicoff said. “It’s wholly improper. You entire 24-country Caribbean Basin rose 14.1 percent. want to continue to ship,” said Mark Brutzkus, an don’t put a substantial corporation in involuntary Other countries lost market share in the first quarter. Mexico, the number attorney representing the trim companies. bankruptcy proceedings over a five-figure debt, two overall supplier to the U.S., saw a drop of 7.8 percent in imports of ap- Adamson has manufactured the XOXO, Baby Phat especially when the debt is not ours.” parel and textiles in the quarter and imports from Thailand fell 10.9 percent. and Members Only labels after licensor Aris Executives of the former Grupo Xtra could not Industries Inc., whose president is also Simon, be reached. gained control of those licenses from Grupo Xtra — Nola Sarkisian-Miller The time to think Having a reliable partner like Checkpoint® about another tag and label will put your mind at ease. Wondering if you’re getting all you should from your resource is current resource? It’s time to consider Checkpoint.

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checkpointsystems.com 10 Rough Start to First-Quarter Profits Continued from page one in a research note, “We believe profits totaled $1.63 billion, or tween $1.50 and $1.70 for the year. duct earnings conference calls or the potential for increased promo- that inventory is well controlled 37 cents, a result that was restat- Vanessa Castagna, chairman generally offer executive com- tional pressures going forward. and that hard markdowns have ed to reflect Wal-Mart’s decision and ceo of Penney’s stores, cata- ments in its earnings releases, With sales somewhat slower been taken to shield future quar- to expense stock options. log and Internet, told Wall Street did offer a breakdown of sales than expected, the firm’s total in- ter results. As a result, May is Revenues for the three analysts during a conference and earnings for the past 12 ventories were up 13.4 percent at well positioned to benefit from months climbed 9.8 percent to call, “We had a difficult first months covering the second the end of the quarter, while an eventual topline recovery.” $57.22 billion from $52.13 billion quarter. We know why and we quarter of fiscal 2002 through the comp-store inventories in the However, UBS Warburg’s a year ago. Comparable-store have made and continue to make most recent quarter. For the 52 U.S. were up by a percentage in sales inched up 2.2 percent, changes where we needed to.” weeks ended May 3, net income WWD, WEDNESDAY, MAY 14, 2003 WWD, WEDNESDAY, the mid-single digits. On a morn- below the Bentonvillian stan- She explained the company exclusive of divisional combina- ing conference call to discuss the dard of seasons past. was inconsistent in execution tion costs dropped 13.6 percent to results, vice chairman Thomas Sales from the firm’s McLane and in some of its merchandis- $595 million, or $1.92 a share, Coughlin said the majority of the unit, which distributes groceries ing. “We continue to focus on versus $689 million, or $2.18 a increase related to summer sea- and nonfood items to conven- long-term goals [providing] fash- share, in the prior-year period, as sonal items and apparel. ience stores, drugstores and oth- ionable, trend-right product sales fell 4.6 percent to $13.27 bil- “This performance in inven- ers, were not included in the rev- with superior quality.” lion from $13.91 billion. tory is not acceptable and we enue figure since the business is She said there are initial signs are taking all the steps that we slated to be sold to Berkshire that the second quarter is looking THE TJX COS. feel are appropriate to bring in- Hathaway Inc. this quarter. better. Comparable-store sales Cold weather, weak comps ventory back in line,” he said. At the flagship Wal-Mart divi- were down 4.9 percent in the first and higher costs drove down “The increase resulted from sion, operating profits, which quarter, versus an increase of 7.9 The TJX Companies Inc.’s first- lower-than-anticipated sales for are before interest, unallocated percent in last year’s quarter. quarter profits but earnings did the total company during the corporate expenses and income Seasonal apparel was weak in meet the retailer’s forecast. quarter combined with the high taxes, increased 8.1 percent to March, but fine jewelry sales For the three months ended inventory levels that we brought $2.75 billion from $2.55 billion. were up with diamonds, gem- April 26, the Framingham, into the current fiscal year.” Before the change in account- stones and watches particularly Mass.-based off-price chain said Qualifying these observations, ing, operating profits shot up strong in the quarter. net income dropped 22.8 per- he pointed out, “The quality of 10.1 percent to $2.8 billion. Castagna also said the com- cent to $113.5 million, or 22 the merchandise is good, it’s just Sales at the division expanded pany was “very pleased” with cents a diluted share. By com- that the quantity that we have by 9 percent to $38.62 billion the customer response to its re- parison, last year the company right now is high. Much may de- from $35.42 billion a year ago. cent launch of moderate sports- posted earnings of $147.1 mil- Scott said the rest of the first wear anchored by the Bisou lion, or 27 cents. Earnings per half will resemble the quarter Bisou label. share were within the compa- The quality of the merchandise is just ended. “Sales growth will The catalog business, she ny’s plan and matched the Wall improve in the second half of said, was down 11.1 percent in Street consensus estimate. “good, it’s just that the quantity that we the year, but I believe that it’s the quarter and came in better Net sales for the period rose largely going to be based on the than planned. Sales of the 4.6 percent to $2.79 billion from have right now is high. Much may fact that, at Wal-Mart stores, we Internet component of the busi- $2.67 billion a year ago, but cold had easier comparisons.” ness, part of the catalog opera- weather and unfavorably strong depend on achieving more seasonal For the second quarter, the tion, exceeded a 25 percent in- year-ago comparisons pushed firm is looking for earnings of 49 crease and is expected to be- comparable-store sales down 2 weather over the next several weeks. to 51 cents a share. Wall Street come a $1 billion business with- percent versus last year’s 7 per- had 51 cents penciled in for the in the next four to five years. cent same-store sales gain. — Thomas Coughlin, Wal-Mart Stores” Inc. period. Wal-Mart stood by its “We planned the first quarter full-year earnings guidance of MAY DEPARTMENT STORES CO. conservatively against the very pend on achieving more season- Linda Kristiansen took an op- $2 to $2.05 a share. A tax credit allowed May strong results of last year and al weather over the next several posing view, saying that May Department Stores Co. to post a earnings came in near the upper weeks. Further, industry-wide Co.“was not particularly proac- J.C. PENNEY CO. INC. nominal earnings increase in end of our range, while comp- promotions aimed at apparel tive in taking early markdowns” J.C. Penney on Tuesday post- the first quarter as sales de- store sales came in slightly below clearance in particular may im- and that further promotion will ed a double-digit drop in in- clined on both a net and compa- our expectations,” said chief ex- pact our margins. We do have be necessary to bring comp- come for the first quarter ended rable-store basis. ecutive officer Edmond English some exposures to markdowns.” store stocks in line with planned April 26. In the 13 weeks ended May 3, on a conference call with ana- The war in Iraq, a late Easter same-store sales declines of be- For the three months, income the St. Louis-based parent of lysts. “The cold weather through- and cool weather hardly whet- tween 2 and 4 percent in the fell 29.1 percent to $61 million, or Lord & Taylor, Hecht’s and out the quarter was such an over- ted shoppers’ appetites for ap- second quarter. 20 cents a diluted share, com- David’s Bridal registered net in- riding issue that it is difficult to parel, but neither have the end The lagging sales aren’t nec- pared with $86 million, or 29 come of $72 million, or 23 cents draw any other conclusion about of hostilities and, at least ac- essarily a bad sign for everyone, cents, in the same year-ago quar- a diluted share. That’s 3 cents the trend of our first-quarter per- cording to the calendar, the ar- though. Off-pricer TJX Cos. said ter. The consensus estimate above consensus estimates and formance. Unseasonable weather rival of spring. Apparently, the inventory glut allowed it to among Wall Street analysts was 18 2.9 percent above year-ago earn- this season is never just about stocks nudged upward at Wal- pump up merchandise margins cents a share, according to ings of $70 million, also 23 cents. the current year. It’s about the Mart and other stores despite by taking advantage of in-season Thomson/First Call. The quarter’s The most recent quarter’s year-over-year comparison, and their enhanced ability, through buying opportunities. However, results included a $7 million cred- earnings per share figures were last year the weather in the first technology, to monitor and man- the firm posted a 22.8 percent it reflecting $21 million in real es- lifted 10 cents by a tax credit quarter couldn’t have been more age inventories and spot accu- drop in first-quarter net income tate gains on the sale of several connected to the resolution of favorable.” mulations of excess or dated to $113.5 million, or 22 cents a closed locations that more than “various federal and state in- Consolidated costs — selling, goods faster than ever. diluted share, on a 4.6 percent offset the $14 million of charges come tax issues,” and the year- general and administrative ex- U.S. Bancorp Piper Jaffray an- upswing in sales. associated with the previously an- ago number was depressed 8 penses plus cost of goods sold — alyst Jeffrey Klinefelter said Wal- For the most part, investors nounced catalog restructuring. cents by divisional consolida- also hurt the bottom line, ex- Mart’s own need to clear invento- didn’t look favorably on the re- Total sales declined by 3 per- tion costs. Excluding these ex- panding 220 basis points to 93.1 ry “will probably put pressure on sults, with the notable exception cent to $7.49 billion from $7.73 traordinary items, EPS fell to 13 percent of net sales from 90.9 the value chains.” He added, of Penney’s, which received a 5.4 billion, which includes a 7.1 per- cents from 31 cents in last year’s percent a year ago. TJX attrib- though, that “the damage will percent boost in its share price to cent sales drop to $3.72 billion reporting period. uted the higher cost ratio to a probably be mitigated somewhat $18.85. Wal-Mart’s stock fell 2.1 from $4.01 billion in the depart- Net sales pulled back 7.2 per- conservative sales plan and in- because Wal-Mart is still not a percent to $55.49 while May Co.’s ment store and catalog business. cent to $2.87 billion from $3.1 bil- creases in insurance and distri- true destination for fashion. was off 1.9 percent to $22.17, The Eckerd drugstores opera- lion in last year’s quarter, de- bution expense. “What we need is a boost of while shares of TJX fell 1 percent tion rose slightly by 1.3 percent spite the openings of two depart- At the Marmaxx segment, the psychology for the country. The to $19.80. All four issues trade on to $3.78 billion from $3.72 billion. ment stores and two bridal stores firm’s combined entity of T.J. potential is there if the con- the New York Stock Exchange. Allen Questrom, chairman and during the period. Comparable- Maxx and Marshalls and its sumers get out and move through chief executive officer, said in a store sales were down 8.8 per- largest division by far, income the mass and the discount stores.” WAL-MART STORES INC. statement: “The past three cent as the firm’s comps, as re- plunged 22.5 percent to $193.9 Describing the quarter as Even the mighty Wal-Mart en- months have represented one of ported, declined all three million on a 1 percent sales de- “interesting,” Wal-Mart grew dured “disappointing” sales in the most difficult retailing envi- months of the quarter: 8.9 per- crease to $2.15 billion. Segment earnings 14.1 percent to $1.86 the first quarter. ronments in recent memory. cent in February, 11.4 percent in comps fell 5 percent during the billion, or 42 cents a share. Still, president and chief exec- Although I am disappointed with March and 5.6 percent in April. quarter versus a year-ago 7 per- Sales rose 9.8 percent. Penney’s, utive Lee Scott, on a recorded con- the company’s execution, results The firm reported cost of sales cent gain. TJX said the cool which had a “difficult” quarter, ference call, was comfortable for the first quarter should not de- increased 1.5 percent, “principal- weather was responsible and saw overall earnings plummet enough with the results to declare, tract from the significant progress ly due to a 1.1 percent increase in that the segment failed to meet 29.1 percent to $61 million, or 20 “We had a heck of a good quarter that we have made in improving occupancy costs and a 0.3 per- the firm’s plan. cents a diluted share, while the from an operating perspective.” the fundamentals of our business cent increase in the cost of mer- In guidance, TJX said second- topline shrunk by 3 percent. Net income for the first quar- over the past two years.” chandise.” Selling, general and quarter earnings are anticipated May Co.’s profits inched up 2.9 ter advanced 14.1 percent to He added that he saw signs of administrative costs rose to 22.3 at 25 to 28 cents a share, with full- percent to $72 million, or 23 $1.86 billion, or 42 cents a share, improvement: “If the retail envi- percent of sales from 21.2 per- year earnings of $1.20 to $1.32 a cents a diluted share, while for the quarter ended April 30. ronment does improve, we be- cent in the first quarter of 2002. share. The Wall Street consensus sales retreated 7.2 percent. Results were reduced by $101 lieve that we could still achieve May plans to open another estimates are currently 26 cents Of May Co.’s 1 percent in- million, or 2 cents, on an after- our previously communicated nine department stores and 45 and $1.24, respectively. crease in inventory despite a tax basis for a change in ac- full-year earnings guidance.” specialty stores during the re- — With contributions from sales decline, Goldman Sachs counting related to money re- The company in February pro- mainder of the year. Vicki M. Young, Arnold J. analyst George Strachan wrote ceived from suppliers. Year-ago jected earnings per share of be- The firm, which doesn’t con- Karr and Dan Burrows WWD, WEDNESDAY, MAY 14, 2003 CALABRESE JOHN BY PHOTO 11 Sarah Harris, London Harris, Sarah Françoise Montenay, presi- Montenay, Françoise “Areas affected by SARS are Montenay acknowledged that “The impact of SARS is sig- — With contributions from contributions With — Amanda Kaiser, Milan, and Milan, Kaiser, Amanda non-Japan Asia because of SARS, said its salespeople are working the phones. are “We doing whatever we can to stay close to the customers,” he said. He also added that Gucci is dis- infecting and cleaning its stores a lot to make sure customers know that “they are safe places.” dent of Chanel SA, said the com- pany was taking “no specific local initiatives” in the wake of trav- SARS. She allowed that the el business has been affected, but not local sales. changing every week,” she said. China “However, is a very small market for us, thus we do not suffer that much.” Asian tourists would be missing in Europe if SARS is not held in check. nificant on all retail sectors in the affected areas, and it’s par- ticularly challenging in Hong Kong, Shanghai and Taiwan,” said Stephen Lussier, executive marketing director at Diamond Trading Co. “For us, it’s only about 10 percent of business, which doesn’t sound like much, but it can certainly make a dif- ference to overall figures.” Zac Posen said he’d always admired the casual Behnaz Sarafpour said Ellis designed “great Stan Herman praised his late friend for his in- UNITE demonstrators holding cardboard cutouts of Ellis-sponsored cocktail designers outside a Perry party Monday. noticed by attendees at the which party, was held in a gallery below street level. Downstairs, con- versation focused on the late designer’s contribu- tion to American fashion. elegance of Ellis’ designs, adding, “he made some of the best American sportswear.” clothes that have a combination of wit and func- tionality.” fluence in building the bridge sector into an im- portant business. Herman said, “That’s a great place for young people to start because they can actually sell their product.” A spokeswoman for Swatch Antoine Belge, luxury analyst “The management of all the Nevertheless, some luxury are “We really pushing our A Gucci spokesman, acknowl- acknowledged acknowledged SARS is affecting sales in the countries hit by the killer virus, as well as “tourist centers visited by people from these countries.” But she added that Swatch would be “able to compensate to some extent” for lost sales in other regions and stressed that the strength of the Swiss franc was more of a con- cern than SARS. at HSBC in Paris, said he’s as- suming that SARS will be con- tained by the end of the second meaning quarter, the crucial holiday sales period would not be affected. He estimates the September to December period generates about 40 to 45 percent of annual profits for luxury goods firms. on the companies are all working assumption that by the summer, things should be back to nor- mal,” Belge said in an interview. firms said they are taking meas- ures to drum up local business in affected areas. VIP clients to come into the store for private showings,” said a Prada spokesman. He de- clined to say how much SARS has dented its business. edging that sales are down in The National Labor Relations That’s because the NLRB has ruled that a pre- majority of workers “A have already spoken for Tim Page, chief financial officer at Perry Ellis, He claimed the union is “not really interested NLRB officials did not return phone calls by UNITE has successfully used the card-check A small group of UNITE activists took their They held a mock awards ceremony on Sixth But the demonstration seemed to go largely un- But Antoine Colonna, analyst two-thirds“Assuming of non- “This does not take into ac- He added, that however, the LVMH has said Hong Kong NLRB Sets Date for Perry Ellis Election Ellis Perry for Date Sets NLRB Malone Scott By NEW YORK — Board has set May 30 as the date of an election to determine whether employees of a Perry Ellis International Inc. distribution center in Miami want to join UNITE, according to an official at the company and an union organizer. vious election, in which employees voted against the union by a margin of 55 to 49, was cause it found unfair that Perry be- Ellis violated labor laws in the runup to the election. UNITE However, of- ficials said they are advocating that a card-check process — in which a neutral third party counts the number of union cards signed to determine whether a majority of employees support the union — be used to ratify the union. the union by signing union said February,” cards Luke back Brindle, a in research analyst at UNITE. “Perry Ellis management has tainted the atmosphere. It’s really impossible for there to be a free election at this time.” said, “Our position on the union has been that our employees are certainly entitled to organize if they so desire and it’s a democratic process. We’d like the employees to have the opportunity to ex- press their opinion.” in having an election. They’re trying to force us to negotiate without an election.” press time. procedure before, such as when it organized a Brylane distribution center in Indianapolis earli- er this year. campaign to the streets of Manhattan Monday night, where they held a brief demonstration in front of the International Center of Photography, where Perry Ellis were and holding Vogue a cock- tail party honoring nominees for the Council of Designers of America’s fashion awards. Fashion Avenue in which honorees played by UNITE staffers holding up large cardboard cutouts of their heads stomped on award cups after hearing allegations of worker mistreatment at Perry Ellis. Analysts Weigh In on SARS on In Weigh Analysts Continued from page 2 Under that analysis, SARS con- tributes roughly 4.2 percent of the swing, terrorism fears 3.3 percent, with sensitivity to war and the economy impacting each. about 1 percent at Merrill in Lynch argues Paris, that SARS concerns are “over- done,” damaging sentiment more than earnings. Japan Asia is a danger zone…then about 75 percent of total sales reg- istered in non-Japan Asia could give us downside,” Colonna wrote in a recent report. “Our calcula- tion also factors in a 40 percent drop in sales where SARS is ac- tive. Were it to last until 2004, sector EPS would be cut on av- erage by 3 percent. count the potential positive im- pact of SARS on Japanese do- mestic consumption, and is thus very conservative.” main risk to price targets for stocks, including Hermès and to Japan. is if SARS spreads LVMH, and Singapore, hit hard by the crisis, represent only 6 percent of its total business. A Burberry spokeswoman said Tuesday that China and Singapore Hong Kong, generate less than 5 percent of its total group revenues. — J.W. — —Young M. Vicki — Jennifer Weitzman Jennifer — In December, In a December, special com- Led by results in Europe and Idol also said that the company’s first-quarter Domestically, A&F, which operates 602 stores A&F, The company’s balance sheet Although A&F reported a Hollister stores continue to At A&F stores, women’s apparel women’s At A&F stores, mittee of the company’s board hired Peter J. Solomon Co. to help in its consideration of strate- gic alternatives, including the possibility of the sale of the firm. Idol has made an offer to buy the company and market sources have listed Kellwood Co. among the firms interested in Kasper’s operations and the Anne Klein trademarks it holds. the Far East, total international sales rose 44 percent during the Global sales of new prod- quarter. uct initiatives, including Swiss- made Burberry and watches and Zodiac Emporio Armani jewelry, contributed about $3.5 million to overall sales, while ac- quisitions added $3.6 million. management team was focused on “emerging from [bankruptcy] reor- ganization as a balanced and prof- itable multibrand women’s ap- parel and accessories company.” sales at company owned retail stores increased 14 percent due to an 18 percent increase in the average number of stores opened in the quarter and a 1 percent comparable-store sales increase. Sales from its domestic watch business increased 1.4 percent, negatively impacted by a reduc- tion in expected shipments in the later half of March, particularly Fossil and Relic watches. Sales from its accessories and sunglass units rose 3.3 percent, with partic- handbags. ular strength in Relic under the A&F and Hollister nameplates, said it is anticipating it can earn between 30 and 34 cents a diluted share in the sec- ond which quarter, falls below current analysts’ expectations of Call. 35 cents, according to First at the end of the quarter includ- ed $6.3 million in cash, and no borrowings under its debtor-in- possession financing agreement. comp decline in each month of the first the quarter, company said it was less promotional this which year, resulted in higher average unit retail prices and healthier gross margins. ment: “Gross margins have in- creased to 40.4 percent of total rev- enue compared with 34.5 percent in the prior year’s first quarter.” yield positive results as the divi- sion reported a double-digit comp increase in both its young men’s and women’s divisions. For the first time, sales per square foot exceeded those at A&F stores in the same malls. The company is divi- so enamored with the 95-unit sion that it plans to open 80 doors 2004. this year and another 80 in comps were positive, with bottoms, particularly in military styles, being top sellers, followed by skirts and shorts. In addition, revealing are performing well. feminine tops Teen Teen retailer Bankrupt Kasper Fueled Fueled by growth

The Richardson, Tex.-based “Our first-quarter sales re- Income was $8 million, or Total revenues in the quarter John Idol, chairman and chief However, the However, firm said the For the three months ended Noting April’s business was on the international front, Fossil Inc. on Tuesday reported in- creases in both sales and profits for the first quarter. watch and accessories firm said for the three months ended April 5, income rose 2.8 percent to $12.1 million, or 25 cents a dilut- ed share, compared with income of $11.8 million, or 25 cents, in the year-ago period. Overall sales for the quarter climbed 18.2 percent to $169.8 million over $143.7 million. Earnings came in a penny ahead of Wall Street’s best guess of 24 cents. sults were fueled by strong glob- al gains in Fossil and licensed watches, new initiatives such as Burberry watches and Emporio Armani jewelry and a continued benefit from the strong euro,” Mike chief Kovar, financial offi- said in a statement. cer, NEW YORK — International Sales Lead Fossil Lead Sales International

ASL Ltd. on Tuesday said that the company posted a first-quar- ter profit compared with a year- ago loss in the same period. $1.18 a diluted share, for the three months ended March 29, versus a loss of $24.7 million, or $3.64, last year. The 2002 quarter was restated for a $30.4 million charge for a cumulative effect of a change in accounting principle. Before the charge, net income was $5.7 million, or 83 cents a share. Reorganization costs nar- rowed in the latest quarter to $1.1 million from $1.6 million last year. declined by 10.6 percent to $104.9 million from $117.3 million. Included in the tally was an 11.6 percent drop in sales to $100.5 million from $113.6 million and an 18.4 jump in royalty income to $4.4 million from $3.7 million. executive officer, said in a state- Kasper Reverses Loss Reverses Kasper NEW YORK —

NEW YORK — A&F Picks Up 9.7% Up Picks A&F Abercrombie & Fitch matched Wall Street’s estimates and just squeaked by its own expecta- tions late Tuesday with a profit increase that nearly achieved double-digit status. retail environment remains un- certain and the current, second- quarter’s earnings could fall short of the current expecta- Street analysts. tions of Wall May 3, the New Ohio- Albany, based casual apparel retailer’s profits escalated 9.7 percent to $25.6 million, or 26 cents a diluted share, versus income of $23.3 mil- lion, or 23 cents, in the year-ago period, matching Street’s Wall best guess. Sales for the quarter rose 10.8 percent to $346.7 million over $312.8 million, but decreased 6 percent on a comp basis. less buoyant than expected, Michael Jeffries, chairman and chief executive, said: are “We responding by continuing to put out the best possible fashion for our customers and managing the business very conservatively.” 12 Marketing A Contradiction In Store By Valerie Seckler NEW YORK — It ain’t getting any easier. Apparel Sales By Age Group: Sept.-Feb. 2001-2003 Fashion marketers are facing a seismic shift in the WWD, WEDNESDAY, MAY 14, 2003 WWD, WEDNESDAY, psychographic profile of their female customers — one that’s posing a steeper challenge to an already rocky 100 business. It’s the emergence of a more complex fashion All Ages consumer who expresses a variety of conflicting attitudes $98.6 and opposing behaviors, and thus is harder to please. 90 13-17 And she’s only surfaced in the past six months, ac- cording to NPD Group research disclosed exclusively to $87.3 18-34 WWD. In a nod to the trend, NPD has dubbed today’s 80 $82.7 shopping environment the Age of Contradictions. Indeed, in the short time since last holiday, women and 35-54 teens ages 13 and older have increasingly described themselves with conflicting characteristics, in place of 70 the singular traits they had chosen before. The new traits include: adventurous yet cautious; practical yet indulgent; confident yet seeking accept- 60 ance; feminine yet corporate; outdoorsy yet luxurious; single yet maternal; mature yet youthful; educated yet thirsty for knowledge, and career-oriented yet domesti- 50 cated. Previously, women had portrayed themselves in a more singular fashion; as either adventurous or cau- tious, practical or indulgent, for example. 40 “This is a dramatic, fast change in the way women

are seeing themselves,” noted Marshal Cohen, co-presi- Billions in are Sales Dollar dent of Port Washington-based NPDFashionworld. “This 30 $30.3 is the first time I’ve seen this complexity in the 18 $28.7 $26.1 months we’ve been asking female consumers to de- $24.9 scribe themselves. Interestingly, only women expressed 20 $23.3 $22.7 these seeming contradictions,” Cohen continued. “Perhaps men are less willing to acknowledge and re- spond to change.” 10 $11.1 $11.9 Contributing to the emergence of the psychographic changes among females, Cohen said, are: $9.8 ● Emotional and psychological fallout from 9/11, which has spurred changes in their mind-sets and values. 2001 2002 2003 ● Growing access to information through the Internet SOURCE: NPD GROUP and increasingly popular adult education pursuits. ● Greater willingness on the part of women to share The 18- to 34-year-old consumer accounts for the largest share of apparel spending by age group, according to NPD Group. their emotions and thoughts. “The emergence of contradictory traits sends up a months — I don’t think so,” offered Trudy Sullivan, an of what’s going on in the world, but remains socially ac- very clear signal the apparel business needs to rethink executive vice president of Liz Claiborne Inc., whose re- tive and optimistic. Our customer may be indulgent and how it markets to consumers,” Cohen advised. “What sponsibilities include leading the company’s portfolio of attracted to the designer name associated with the may have worked in a marketing campaign six months Liz Claiborne labels. The Liz Claiborne brand’s target, brand, while [also] being very practical and responsive ago may not work today. But I’ll bet a lot of brands don’t Sullivan said, is a “warm, genuine, confident, 35- to 55- to the more affordable prices Armani Exchange offers.” know their customer is changing.” year-old woman who’s happy with her life. She prefers As for the primary A|X customer, the spokesman said Indeed, a spot check with a handful of brands — Liz stylish, flattering, feminine clothes.” Sullivan acknowl- she’s ambitious, confident, independent, likes the nightlife Claiborne, A|X Armani Exchange and Diesel — re- edged, however, that “the Liz woman is grounded, but and has a style that reflects this spirit. She’s aware of vealed none of them believe the fundamental psycho- 9/11 probably prompted her to hold on even harder to trends, but enjoys creating her own look, mixing vintage, graphic profiles of their customers has changed in the the things she holds dear.” designer numbers and streetwear. She sees A|X as a brand past year and a half. Nonetheless, the spring ad campaign for the Liz for key seasonal pieces, like a cropped cargo pant. “I don’t know if the relevant psychographic traits of Claiborne brand reflects a closer examination of its cus- While the typical A|X customer ranges from 18 to 34 the Liz Claiborne customer have changed in the past 18 tomers’ values and marks what Sullivan termed “a big years old, the brand has found its best customers are in departure” from a focus on product to one on situations the 21- to 28-year-old set. Thus, the brand’s marketing in their lives — with family, friends and in various activ- effort is aimed at those consumers and those with simi- ities. “The key word is real, rather than aspirational,” lar attitudes and lifestyles. Sullivan said of the current campaign’s imagery and tag In fact, research on apparel spending conducted by line: “Live for the moments.” RoperASW last September and NPD Group in the first A somewhat similar approach, emphasizing authen- quarter identified 18- to 29-year-olds and 18- to 34-year- ticity — though in an ironic voice — is being used by a olds, respectively, as the age groups spending the most brand with a younger, edgier customer: Diesel. It’s an on fashion or having plans to do so. Among 18- to 29- attempt to respond to changes Diesel has discovered in year-olds surveyed by RoperASW, 34 percent said they the past five or six years, rather than months, explained planned to spend more on apparel, compared with The emergence of contradictory traits sends up a very clear signal “the apparel business needs to rethink how it markets to consumers. — Marshal Cohen, NPDFashionworld”

Maurizio Marchioni, vice president of marketing at September 2001. That response was 16 percentage Diesel USA, whose primary target is the 18- to 34-year- points higher than the 18 percent of the broader sam- old. “People don’t buy apparel so much anymore out of ple, ages 18 and older, who participated in the tele- need,” Marchioni observed. “They buy because of a de- phone poll. And the consumers, ages 18 to 34, canvassed sire to have something they like. That’s why establishing by NPD Group accounted for 30.1 percent of the $82.7 an emotional connection between consumers and a billion spent on apparel between September 2002 and brand has become important.” February 2003, or $24.9 billion, and represented the In order to communicate a brand’s meaning with in- largest share of purchasing by age group. telligence, Marchioni maintained, it’s best to root mar- By comparison, NPD found people ages 35 to 54 rep- keting images in reality rather than in fantasies or aspi- resented 27.4 percent of apparel spending in the rations. “We’ve introduced intelligent irony in Diesel September to February period, or $22.7 billion, and 13- advertising and we refrain from explaining everything to 17-year-olds accounted for 11.9 percent, or $9.8 billion. in our ads,” he pointed out. “This suggests respect for “As fashion has felt growing resistance from more ma- the customer and creates curiosity.” ture customers, it has increasingly shifted its focus to a The profile of the typical A|X Armani Exchange cus- younger consumer — as well it should,” said Paco tomer is also sophisticated, but that’s nothing new, ac- Underhill, managing director of consultant Envirosell. cording to a company spokesman. “We think the behav- “The pool of money controlled by those 45 and older is For its spring advertising campaign, Liz Claiborne shifted its ior of the A|X girl [an 18- to 34-year-old target] has not growing larger each year. But those consumers are grow- focus away from its products and instead zeroed in on changed significantly over the past 18 months,” the ing wiser and many of them could probably live the rest of situations in their customers’ lives. spokesman stated in an e-mail interview. “She’s aware their lives without buying any apparel they don’t need.” WWD, WEDNESDAY, MAY 14, 2003 13 , , her Mickey , 3 1/2, and , chairman , and Presley Dorothy Walker Ezra Dabah Jenny Maluf took his place earlier this took his place earlier , 1 1/2. Crawford’s grandmother , 1 1/2. Crawford’s Maluf shared with the audience her It was a good week for Dolce & Pilot was trying to turn around J. Pilot was trying RAMADA RAMADA INN EASTSIDE MANHATTAN LEXINGTON AVE 161 celebrated Mother’s Day by hosting celebrated Mother’s the Colleague Helpers in Philanthropic Services’ fifth annual with a Dolce & Day luncheon Mother’s Gabbana fall fashion show in Beverly not about me,” “It’s Hills on Friday. quipped Crawford, revealing the reason her mother and grandmother flew in from Illinois for the weekend. to hang out with my kids,” she “It’s said, referring to Kaia boasts 70 descendants, with two Crawford said she is more on the way. not among the expecting. tempting to secret to motherhood. “It’s be the good guy — the friend,” she told 375 attendees. “But kids need you to be the parent the most.” Gabbana. In addition to a certificate guests a 25 extending to C.H.I.P.S. percent discount on spring merchandise at the Rodeo Drive store through May 17, a separate in- store fall trunk show ended Saturday and pulled in more than $500,000, according to the company. and ceo of the 650-unit chain. and ceo of the 650-unit chain. Cindy Crawford MOMS AWAY: mother, grandmother, Drexler Place is another The Children’s year. and Pilot was turnaround project, being considered for a top merchant position, filling a big vacancy and reporting to like there’s no deal. Pilot was being deal. Pilot was no like there’s to help for a high post considered back into the chain’s put the sparkle but according to a merchandising, to happen. not going source, “it’s on the terms of They couldn’t agree the contract.” ceo Crew when ex-Gap , 800.567.7720 Fisher George Gabriel , , RED ROOF INN MANHATTAN 6 32ND W. ST Russell to a second , . When Talks between Talks Timothy Schifter Timothy Q-Tip , , former J. Crew ceo applecorehotels.com applecorehotels.com The first collection hasn’t LA QUINTA MANHATTAN 32ND W. ST 17 Ric Burns Annabella Sciorra Julianna Margulies , Gwen Stefani , and showed up unexpectedly, Ken Pilot Rosie Perez Wolfe Stevens Simmons Byrne Perez called out, “Everybody say ‘happy birthday’ to Gabriel,” who was celebrating his 53rd that night. he Byrne was in no rush, though — lingered at the store with the other celebs until 10:30 p.m., an hour over. and a half after the event was IN THE BAG: has even hit stores yet, and LeSportsac with already extended its collaboration rock star that end, season. To sang, rapped and read poetry and sang, rapped and by such celebrities were introduced as chief executive and co-owner of the handbag company, New York-based home in historic hung out at Stefani’s Griffith Park in Los Angeles Monday, a working out designs and details for spring 2004 “Gwen Stefani — L.A.M.B. for LeSportsac” collection. The line will have some of the elements of the inaugural pieces, but the rest is still hush-hush. It all will preview at the August accessories shows, with a launch party slated in just before fashion week New York much- there. As for Stefani’s anticipated L.A.M.B. apparel line, which will coordinate with the LeSportsac bags, retailers will likely get a first look in time for spring buys, too. NO DEAL FOR PILOT: Place specialty chain The Children’s and and former president of Gap brand, concluded last week and it looks COMFORT COMFORT INN MIDTOWN 46TH W. ST 129 IN YOUR ROOM. TAKE CARE OF TAKE ANY BOOK ONLINE OR CALL. PRESSING ISSUES RIGHT Irons & ironing boards in every room—just one of the features that make our hotels the hottest values in Manhattan. Sometimes it’s the little things that make all the difference. SUPER 8 HOTEL TIMES SQUARE 59 46TH W. ST FREE LOCAL CALLSTELEPHONE WITH DATA PORTVOICE MAILWEB • TV INTERNET • ACCESSFITNESS • BOARD CENTER IRONING & IRON • • MACHINE• COFFEE IN-ROOM SERVICES• VALET LAUNDRY& BREAKFAST• COMPLIMENTARY NEWSPAPERS WEEKDAY SECURITYMODERN ELECTRONIC KEYS• ROOM• IN EVERY HAIR DRYER Those who haven’t Fisher Stevens and Julianna Margulies TALENT SCOUTS: TALENT of “American Idol” gotten their fix to the DKNY simply had to head flagship on Monday Avenue Madison Working night. DKNY hosted of annual Voices Playground’s which raises funds Promise Benefit, City’s for arts education in New York youngsters, public schools. Talented ranging in age from seven to 18, Fashion Scoops Fashion ” — Wella AG Wella — — Kristin Young Kristin — — Arnold J. Karr J. Arnold — The Professional division, The Cosmetics and Frag- Old Navy has enjoyed a four- Old Navy president Jenny Wella’s Wella’s biggest, weathered an 8 percent drop in sales, to $413.3 million, and a 5 percent drop in to EBIT, $52.2 million. Excluding currency and acqui- sition effects, EBIT declined 4.2 percent and sales dipped 0.9 percent. The Consumer segment saw EBIT fall 12.7 percent to $8 million, although the figure advanced 17.7 per- cent in local Consumer sales declined currencies. 10.9 percent, to $242.4 million, but accelerated 2.9 percent in con- stant currencies. rances group was the only one of Wella’s three business units to register increases in sales or earnings. Bolstered by the April 2002 acquisition of Escada Beauté Group SA, EBIT bounded 73 percent to $14.8 million from $8.5 million in last year’s quarter, while sales ad- vanced 26.2 percent to $187.8 million from $148.9 million. Excluding both currency fluc- tuation and acquisitions, EBIT was up even more, 75.7 per- cent, but sales were up a less- robust 17.9 percent. $870.1 million Eliminating the effect of cur- last rency year. swings, sales would have escalated 6.6 percent, a figure reduced to 3.5 percent if acqui- sitions are subtracted. month streak of positive same- store sales increases. April comp-store sales were up 20 percent after advancing 17 per- cent in March, 8 percent in February and 27 percent in January. For the fourth quarter of fiscal 2002, Old Navy’s comp- store sales rose 14 percent. sales Total in 2002 were $5.8 bil- lion, up from $5.1 billion in 2001. Gap Inc. does not disclose net income for any of its divisions under the Old Gap Navy, and banners. Banana Republic Ming recently outlined her 2003 primary objectives to a group of Street Wall analysts. They in- clude improving the shopping experience and raising the level of customer service at stores. Other initiatives are to refine the brand’s position as a value expand product offerings player, and fine tune existing cate- gories, as well as improving the division’s success with single- item trends. tions made sense,” said a Gap spokeswoman. In an effort to Wella Wella AG on

We still believe that Wella Group will Group Wella that believe still We Despite a currency-driven 18.5 Dollar figures have been con- Sales for the group, which In the three months ended

Sands, 42, was most recently Lynch, 45, has been named split the store operations “We “ $65.6 million in last year’s quar- As ter. a percentage of sales, EBIT rose to 7.9 from 7.5 per- cent in the year-ago quarter. the detrimental Excluding effect of currency fluctuation, EBIT would have risen 7.7 percent. percent decrease in American sales, the firm said North overall results were largely in line with expectations. Fore- casting results for the full year, the company said: still “We be- lieve that Wella Group will achieve a double-digit EBIT mar- gin for the first time over this year as a whole. EBIT growth should thus again outpace a sales increase in fiscal 2003.” verted from the euro at current exchange rates. The firm didn’t report net profits for the quarter. has agreed to have the majority of its equity Procter & acquired Gamble, declined 3.1 by percent to $843.5 million from To 2.3% Income Gain Income 2.3% To NEW YORK — Acquisitions Fuel Wella Fuel Acquisitions Tuesday reported first-quarter results that were lifted by acqui- sitions but hampered by unfa- vorable currency translations. March 31, Germany-based the beauty and hair Darmstadt, care firm reported corporate op- erating profits, or earnings be- fore interest and taxes, rose 2.3 percent to $67.1 million from Beauty achieve a double-digit EBIT margin for margin EBIT double-digit a achieve whole. a as year this over time first the improve operations and cus- tomer service at its Old Navy di- vision, Gap Inc. said Tuesday Tom Sands has been promoted to executive vice president of Old Navy stores and operations. senior vice president of Old Navy stores, responsible for the western and central regions. Sands joined Old October 2002, Navy after a 20-year ca- in reer at where Target he was most recently senior vice presi- dent of store operations. The promotion expands his responsi- bilities to include the northeast- ern and southeastern regions of the country, which were previ- ously handled by Brian Lynch, also a senior vice president. senior vice president of stores and operations for Gap Inc. Outlet. He replaces Stickel, who moved to Steve Banana Republic as senior vice presi- dent of stores in February. responsibilities for Old Navy be- cause we felt that one leader across the entire store opera- To Exec VP at Old Navy Old at VP Exec To LOS ANGELES — Tom Sands Promoted Sands Tom 14 WWD West Cashing In on ‘Angels’ Dreams By Marcy Medina LOS ANGELES — There’s a new (well, new again) li- cense coming to town and its name is Charlie. With the June 27 release of “Charlie’s Angels: Full WWD, WEDNESDAY, MAY 14, 2003 WWD, WEDNESDAY, Throttle” — the sequel to the first $263 million, big- screen version of the big-haired Seventies TV series — Columbia Pictures, a division of Sony, is ramping up the licensing program for what is already being hailed as a summer blockbuster. The target: junior and tween apparel and accessories for broad retail distribution, from mass chains like Kmart and Wal-Mart to midlevel department stores like J.C. Penney Co. to such specialty stores as Fred Segal. That’s markedly different from the first film’s fashion program, mostly comprising limited novelty items like beaded jeans at Henri Bendel and sunglasses at Sunglass Hut. With total revenues of overall entertain- ment character licensing reaching $2.48 billion in 2001, and apparel and accessories accounting for 16 percent of that, or $400.5 million, according to the Licensing Industry Merchandisers’ Association, those behind the “Charlie’s Angels” franchise are banking on a heavenly season at retail. Industry sources estimate the movie has the potential to do $10 million at retail. Introducing this approach to licensing is Al Ovadia, Sony Pictures’ executive vice president of consumer products, who arrived in December 2000 — after the first film had been marketed and merchandised. Ovadia recognized the potential for a larger portfolio of product —particularly a franchise that could have its own fash- ion identity apart from the movie. His idea includes nonrepresentational graphics based on wildly popular Japanese anime that could be easily adapt- ed by each of the licensors to The car wash scene from “Charlie’s Angels: Full Throttle” was one of create a seamless image. the inspirations for the animated graphics used in the licensing program. Ovadia and his team also LESLIE & TIMI OF COURTESY PHOTO HANDBAGS PICTURES; COLUMBIA OF COURTESY MICHAELS, DARREN BY PHOTO WASH CAR recognized that the teen smart way to do it.” president of San Francisco-based MJC. He said MJC’s and tween markets, cur- Christiane Freiss, “Angels” collection of boy-style briefs, camis and lounge rently the fastest-growing Sony’s vice president of pants priced from $3 to $8 wholesale is a first for the consumer demographic, creative, a former run- noveltywear maker whose primary business in the past were sorely undermar- way model and graphic has been men’s. keted in the movie-li- designer, played a key “The size of our buying floor for ‘Charlie’s Angels’ is censing category. Teens role in creating the art twice as big as any other license we have and we feel and tweens spent a program. “Girls don’t this will be our strongest license of 2003. It should ex- combined $18 billion on want a person’s face ceed our entire 2002 volume, which included brands apparel last year. Most plastered on their T- like Coke and Hershey’s,” he added. He declined to esti- license-friendly films, shirt. They want things mate retail sales. with the exception of that look like what Drew In another twist on the traditional licensing formula, “Charlie’s Angels” and Barrymore, Lucy Liu and Los Angeles-based contemporary handbag resource “Lara Croft: Tomb Cameron Diaz might wear Timi & Leslie, whose product normally sells in Henri Raider,” have been geared in the film or in real life.” Bendel and Fred Segal, will produce a line of bags toward boys. So the studio Freiss said she was im- aimed at the sophisticated junior and contemporary set out to fill the void with a pressed by the fashion pro- customer, priced at $50 to $85 wholesale. fashion-oriented program that grams for “Moulin Rouge,” which “We’ve never done a license before, but the studio re- Handbags by contemporary had the potential to sell long after were sold through Bloomingdale’s. ally wanted to associate itself with upscale designers the film is on video. resource Timi & Leslie. The Japanese music and animated and the feedback has been great,” said co-owner and “Bringing any new sportswear line to culture of the “Angels” projects, she said, designer Leslie Newton, who projected $100,000 in sales the market is tough,” he admitted, adding that “really connects our pop-culture icons to fash- in limited California and Canada specialty store distri- editorial hits in magazines like the July issue of ion. I tried to push this with the first movie, and the stu- bution. “The concept of the bags is for someone to no- Seventeen and product sampling at last February’s New dio wasn’t quite ready for it. Now, the time has come.” tice them as cute bags first, and see the label second,” York Fashion Week have helped. To that end, the program includes agreements with she said, referring to the abstract anime-inspired graph- Industry observers believe the anime angle will give 15 licensing veterans, namely T-shirts by Giant, ics used sparingly on the bags, the hangtag and inside the program legs. “We call this an inspirational license,” loungewear by MJC, bedding by Dan River and small label the only indication of “Charlie’s Angels.” said Carole Postal, founder of COP Corp., a licensing leather goods and accessories by Accessory Partners. This program is aimed at what Postal calls the sec- and consulting firm based in New York. “When you’re Most product is hitting retail now through late June. ondary market — the older, wealthier consumer who talking about three actresses’ likenesses, that’s not what Unlike other entertainment character properties, might have a nostalgic association with the original se- you use to create brand longevity. The anime look is the this program is a first in many ways, noted Mark Siegel, ries and/or a desire for the current anime trend. WWD, WEDNESDAY, MAY 14, 2003 15 TOP DOLLAR [email protected] OR CLOSEOUTS WALT ADAMS INC T: 800-996-4469 F: 800-540-2784 FOR RETURNS,IR’S Three Dots Please fax resume to: (213) 226-4118 SALES PROFESSIONAL or E-mail: [email protected] PINK.GIRL DESIGNER - WOVENS SPECIALIST DESIGNER - WOVENS or Fax: (212) 869-1525 dress division. Excellent package. Please E-mail: By Garment Central seeks Sales Pro for growing West Please fax resumes to (714) 698-1365, Attention: Betty Please fax resumes to (714) SALES PRO WTD. Coast Junior sportswear and [email protected] Highly successfulsales children’s pro wear inis the expanding co. mid and -tier we seekscontact can and us use an upstairs only your market. talent ifbuyers additional and Our you and following. have business Please key exceptionalKohl’s, relationships Kids merchandise with R personnel the count Us, at executive etc. retailers shouldproductivity Only such apply. the will as Your best determinevery helpful. energy, 21st your knowledge century income. and sales Import ac- experience Leader incontemporary contemporary wovens. Doat knits you least looking have 5production/laundry the years to facilities. answer? experience.strong Must Must be Must have know vision be a fabricConfidentiality will be respected. and a resources leader and team great in player, style. have Super financial opportunity. . Benefits offered. email resume to: with confidence. No relocation options. [email protected] ACCT EXECUTIVE Email resume w/ sal reqs: [email protected] All inquiries will be handled Known for great quality SALES EXECUTIVE In-house SALES full-time. Corporate Los Angeles location. Skills: aggressive, strong comm Fax resume to 714-903-7739 ANONAME JEANS control & excellent delivery. Young Mens, Missy, Junior & follow-up. Base sal. + comm. For immediate interview, please and established contacts with Also capabledesign staff. of working with line available to aand dynamic, exp’d ambitious SalesSouthern Exec CA. in Thiswill work NY in-house closely with or position and Merchandiser development. Designers Must havecontacts current on withcatalogs, dept. product storesprivate label. both and branded and High volume manufacturerdynamic, needs experienced &In-House Acct. Executives. ambitious Must have good productmass merchants & knowledge major retailers WOMEN’S CONTEMPORARY DRESSES & SPORTSWEAR Well-est’d branded contemporary (818) 980-1688 PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Photoshop/ Micrographics. PUBLIC RELATIONS LA, F/T 3 years experience Contact Donna: Daywear apparel. Knowledge costing, paper patterns, fabrics, Smallexp’d "style" fashionLA agency publicist office. Exlntbal for sks written, and ver- Beginning Mac skillsmodest a entry P/T must. salary,growth unique possible, resume: (323) 665-9401 potential. Fax Product Develop. Intimate & , talent "edge" and vision and be mindful that I want your ABSOLUTELY CONFIDENTIAL. for sportswear and dresses for Spring 2004 and "hot" Email: [email protected] Embellishment / Promo Products FREELANCE DESIGNERS Please fax resume to: (213) 226-4118 Check out our website: www.scott-thaler.com trends FOOTWEAR ALLOCATORS - MERCHANDISERS FOOTWEAR ALLOCATORS Create weekly sales and inventory reports to identify top stores and sku’s and under-perform Textile Artist - Better, Sales Execs - Accessories, T’s & Designer - Sweaters, Graphic Artist - Caps, VP Fabric, Apparel * Retail * Accessories * Luxury Goods * Beauty I want your juniorfor and a 7-16 childrenswear highlyselling successful sizes and 4-16 toYour established the Children’s mass Mfg. marketFall Co. 2004 and are mid-tier my retailers. going needs. to Please show be me what you believe is but it must be size and price appropriate for our retailers. -Identify and focus on "top sku’s" and target 90% in-stock rate. transfers or consolidations. -Monitor SKU performance at store level and recommend - -Achieve divisionaloptimum and storeproper inventory mixes. departmental merchandise inventory plans-Develop levels, and by executePlan.- initial monitoring Manage developing allocation auto and strategies and business needs. according to sales trends, seasonality factors, visual merchandising new and replenishment replenishment, of maintain maintaining product store model to stocks all and performance, assigned min-max’s stores and in and proactively Buy adjust determining SKECHERS USA, A global are interested in joining out outstanding team! has opportunities for people who leader in lifestyle footwear and A openings for EXPERIENCED MERCHANDISE ALLOCATORS Our Retail Division has multiple Wonderful Company to or retail distribution experience. who have 2-3 years of allocations be part of This position reportsmonitor to assigned inventory one withinmerchandise plans. of company our guidelines to Retail achieve PlannersJob Duties as follows:joining divisional and and departmental the job’s purpose is to allocate and ing stores and sku’s. -Seek opportunities to increase store performance. Planner. -Anticipate potential product constraints and coordinate with -Experience in FOOTWEAR isor mandatory. other Mustprocess. have Retail knowledge of Planning Retail systems, Math,-To STS, Excel APRAPOE apply [email protected] in have or confidence,Please, a fax please if full this we e-mailwe will contact you. feel understanding information a that of cover to your background the letter, 310/798-9608. is markdown your a good resume No match and with Telephone our salary Calls employment history opportunities, to Attn: Mary Oliva Fax: 213-312-9324, Tel: 800-968-1562 NATIONWIDE EXECUTIVE RECRUITERS Contemporary, Director of Sales & Marketing - Blanks / Contemporary, Director of Sales & Marketing - Blanks 16 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MAY 14, 2003 outs. DirectfromOwner212-695-0005 Other premiumspaces&offices with We arenicepeopletodealwith great views&light.Somewith build 12 windows,freightelevator, bright Cash ForRetailStock&Closeouts. Also HBAandGeneralMerchandise. 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ContactRobRosenbergat: High Ceilings-GreatLight Paul, Mike,Larr the DISTINCTIVE For ALLoffice&loftSPACES 1407 BROADWAY w/loft ceils,spectacularviews 1384 BWAY Call/Fax GerardJ.Falcone SHOWROOMS/OFFICES FASHION CENTERbldg 2000 +4000FtPreBuilts superb Office/Showroom Other Spacefr1200sf UNIQUE 212-947-5500 6840 SF ....Market Rentals 500-20,000 SQ.FT TREBOR MGMT ....NBI Available (212) 984-7179 y 212-594-1414x251 y , Don,Jerr y orSherr y ls ulcts atrs ulservice Full shop tothetrade.Finefast work. patterns. duplicates, ples, Sam- productions. small in Specializing Fast cost. Low w quality. High Reliable. COMPUTER PATTERNS Master/Visa 718-945-3500all-startrucking.co wood andfabriccombinations.Novelty WELL CONNECTED PATTERNS/SAMPLE All lines,Anystyles.FineFastService. Custom bagsandcases,petproducts, Import/Export, Dist.,GOH&Cartons Top QualityBlazers&CoatSpecialty TL 4Packages/T:212-268-7291 *5/17 3LevelDrapingPkgStart* *Train AsstDesigner&Prod’nAsst* 5/19 newclass/Flats,Prints,Embs **Photoshop 7.0&Illustrator10.0** New JerseyFactory We Label&Ship-USCustomsWhse LETTER OFCREDIT Small orbiglots.Wedomarkersand PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PATTERN/SAMPLES ork. Custom-madeBridalwr212-629-4808 We arrangeletterofcreditandpur- GerberPDS2000, pattern,sample& 7,000+ UnitsperWeek/Cut&Sew PATTERNS/SAMPLES chase orderfinancing FASHION TRAINING sewing. CallHerb@(906)932-1339 36,000 sq.ft./20YearsExperience ARE YOUINNEEDOF...... ALLSTAR TKG&WAREHOUSE Calling onTarget,Wal-Mart,JCP, Pillows, Pads,Tarps,Upholstery. Costco, Sam’s.Call(949)706-7497 Also Available:Repair/Repress samples too.Call973-266-0901 Call Ra Trained HundredsSince2002 production. Call212-594-3595 PRODUCTIONS Any kindofworkavailable 12,000 sq.ft.emptyspace; Call Sherr PRODUCTIONS Cut/Sew/Ship PRODUCTION Call (212)268-9126 y mond @201-206-2006 212-869-2699 y 212-719-0622. 888-782-4188 S m rdt&mm fARdp.Qual’d dept. A/R self-starter of assertive be mgmt must collections, candidate yrs & chargeback 10+ incl: credit w/ Resp ind exp. motivated highly seeks kls atreprq x benefits, Exc req. exp Factor 401K. Faxres/salreqs.to:212-354-3051 skills. PROFESSIONAL RESUMES,INC. Ed Kret,Textiles/Apparel212-213-6384 Nancy Bottali,Accessory212-213-6386 Ileen Raskin212-213-6381 w oc.Ielfrajitvnueo part- or sales venture and joint a nership. design for Ideal production, force. - place nldsofc uis utb team a be Must pla duties. office includes retdadatapae.Salary detail teamplayer. working, a commensurate withexperience. and hard oriented committed, (212)557-5000 F:(212)986-8437 (212)557-5000 akn.Hv res elcredit- Sell orders. financia needs w Have year a backing. million currently $4 mfr booking domestic apparel Men’s nld aayhsoyadrequire- and history ments to212-957-9553.eoe salary MUST Fax include which benefits. resume confidential 2-4 & goods. your salaries better with starting with Good experience group individuals knowledgeable of years motivated energetic, apparel and two women’s seeks High-end interested, ac- If as must. a well please e-mailyourresumeto: Excel as exp. sory must, supervi- and experience a payable counts Women’ exp. wholesaler. apparel garment Ladies w bookkeeper asst. seeks Co. Growing with knowledge division. A working childrenswear Assistant Excellent for seeks Designer Manufacturer Large w W A RESUMES THATWORK!SINCE1970 Joint Venture/Partnership COUTURE SEWING ASSISTANT DESIGNER APPAREL STAFFING garments. Emphasisonevening wear Apparel/Accessory/Textile Specialists BILLING SUPERVISOR ASST BOOKKEEPER has workedwithhighquality fabrics/ remi adaRhodes call Zandra info Studio: (858)792-1892 e-mail Textile For & or UK. Fashion Museum new at fashion in the sessions Week 4 NYC customcouturehouse seeksan oeIlsrtr ed obe to Needs Illustrator. dobe Since1967 dmin srn raiainl&negotiaion & organizational /strong rh pcat trs vrtigin Everything stores. specialty orthy rigkoldeo B Job QB. of knowledge orking Please faxresumeto(212)971-2277 experienced Seamstress/Tailor who l salse .Bre pae co apparel Bergen N. established ell Design, CAD,graphs,embs,boards [email protected] FREELANCE DEIGNER -15+yrs All aspectsofdesign914-237-0023 Asst. Designer-Knits y Swtrs, knit,woven,socks,specs, RASKIN EXECUTIVESEARCH GRADUATESTUDY ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION er. tmedur www.resumesforfashion.com 60 E42ndStreet,NYC10165 & gowns. www.raskinexecsearch.com Updating/Phone Interviews (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 DESIGN*SALES*MERCH PROGRAMS IN W-I-N-S-T-O-N Fax resumeto212-244-5136 Buyer -Wovens If interested,call1-800-727-9307 Fax: (212)869-2236 Fax: 212-949-6146 LONDON! g [email protected] Tel: (212)869-2296 A/R and . s / l iiu r xeineamust. resume fax a Pls to: Patti212-921-0097 experience NYC. in based yrs Position 2 individual. overseas. Minimum right with for opportunity Great communication programs. art in a and Daily computer be in Proficient spec. must learner or fast sense. & Illustrator & sketch color Primavision to good able designer. have seeks knits be associate sew Must & motivated cut moder- & highly of sweaters importer ate junior paced, Fast a experience knitwear and must plus. Faxresumeto:212-398-2255 Photoshop a view. is of point contemporary Seeks Design Assistant edge ofPhotoshopand/orIllustrator. knowl- have completing packages.Must and production inquiries lay- pricing / outs, and concepts include with design designers Responsibilities assisting between liaison production. as act to company apparel Major 1st excellent for experience Competitive salary. needed years , 3 communication &organizationalskills to 6X 2 to patterns Toddler Girls DESIGN ASSOCIATE DESIGN ASSISTANT DESIGN ASSISTANT aaiscmesrt ihep laeemi/a resume years e-mail/fax 4 Please Minimum and exp. team. and salaryhistoryto with personality close commensurate a Salaries positive of trim the part and have as fabric work experience indesigner/couture. Must Creative to international must. desire high-end exten- with a and of skills markets directly concept drawing knowledge Excellent initial work fittings. sive from client detail-oriented collection to private thru couture and needed on organized Director/designer assistant highly design creative, Motivated, positive a appearance, professional Candidates stylish, must. a outlook andthedemeanortoworkw/high-profileclientele. a Excel- skills Operations. possess communication of must V.P. and and computer work Director to lent Creative needed with person detail-oriented directly and organized Highly impeccable an style, for and passion relations a and development possess public taste levelandpositiveenergy.Minimum10yrsexperience. product Must of in understanding licensing. experience an creative. with have and retailing must organized must candidates oriented, All detail Candidates image. motivated, brand public highly overall televised w/ be and corp. reinforce magazines Interface to Implement with media work media. retailers. through shows, strategy fashion and relations specialty incl. trunk appearances events all finest personal coordinate couture to w/ PR Director of external Creative business with re-establishment work and show Orchestrate relations aspects public all / resources. manage events to special needed of person energetic and Creative Director ofSpecialEvents&PublicRelations REFERENCE POINT Fax resumeto:212-239-2766 Fax resumeto212-398-9079 ASSISTANT DESIGNER Executive Assistant/OfficeManager Couture DesignAssistant ek individua seeks Los Angelesbased Los Angelesbased New Yorkbased [email protected] witha l onainft eigcntuto nec. sample sewing/construction years Lectra expaplus.Sometravelrequired. 5+ fit, and fittings. foundation all grading, supervise & depts pattern oversee spec, include Technical Responsibilities Foundations key Dept. direct seeks to Co exec. Lingerie Branded Major evening promand w dressy, Leading design years 3 least experience inmens/boys. at for with looking Designer company mens/boys Large Good Office; Benefits. Faxresumeto: Friendly essential. trator Photoshop/Illus separates. active look sportswear men’s young urban Trendy, i er xeine Excellent experience. years opportunit 5 Min Exp w/CasualWovens,Jeans &Washes Designer to$70K Dir ofProdDevel $125 Missy Intimates.Creative/computerskills. SusieJessil Source S.AmericanFactories &Mills DESIGNER -Boys4/7-8/18 E-mail resumeto:[email protected] a auatrrseigdesigner. seeking manufacturer ear Send resumeattn:OperationsEVP Jennifer *JustMgmt.*800-544-5878 Vertical RetailBackground A+. DIRECTOR or DESIGNER [email protected] y y Designer . [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 Fax: 212-382-3623. 212-683-4038 425-928-0246 646-827-9043 . K in - / WWD, WEDNESDAY, MAY 14, 2003 17 y er M/F y Emplo y EOE M/F MANAGER PRODUCTION (212) 812-8099. We will only contact those Work with design staff to Please fax resume to: Equal Opportunit Men’s Designer - Jockey Exciting opportunityWomen’s Production forer. Manag- a choose fabricspoint, within allocate price stylesappropriate to factory, the quality ensure standards, negotiate costs, planand all followtech packs deliveries, to throughproduction. protos to from bulk years Minimum productionhigh-end women’s 4 apparel. expKnowledgeable in in experienced in costing, working with Italian &Fluent in Italian a plus. Asian factories. e offer a unique environment with ith Designers and monitor fabric merican lifestyle & sport apparel. candidates for further consideration. Merchandiser/Design Merchandiser, Fabric Fax resume to: 201-343-0653 Jacquesactivewear Moret, co.,Designer isDivision. Inc., for This seeking candidatemore will a have yrs. the 8 a Men’s Men’sA or design experience Jockey in major Sport W Maternity Apparelbuild Co product seeks linesMust indiv. for be to mass strongims. markets. in Sourcing knits, knowl.,ple trims travel operation & supervision and a den- interface sam- must. Must withprincipals. retailers 5+ and yrssume 718-369-2689 or call 718-369-2656. compan experience. Fax re- Ladies Sportswearmerchandiser Companyexperience. Will be seeks search responsible with for & Re- DevelopmentMills. of Fabrics Mustknowledge and 10 of have mills and strong extensiveing negotiat- skills. overseas Individualw will years work closely quality and maintainunderstand standards. the Must and deadlines. importance of timing competitive salaries &benefits. comprehensive Send resumetory with salary his- to:Broadway-Dept.MD-8th Floor or Jacquesto:[email protected] Email Moret, Inc. 1411 This qualified candidateproven will ability haveresponsible in the men’sdevelopment, design for: & merchandising,presentations, be spec design, packages,nication board commu- with overseasresearch, agents, product market fittingsgarment &Candidate construction knowledgeDegree must of &computer/graphic in haveIllustrator & Photoshop. fabrics. skills a Fashion in BA/BS Design Mac & s Fax er M/F er M/F y y Emplo Emplo y y SBH 516-505-1370 Box#M 1069 [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 y New York, NY 10001 MENSWEAR for further consideration. for further consideration. c/o Fairchild Publications 7 West 34th Street, 4th Fl Men’s Designer [email protected] Merchandiser/Administrative in apparel manf. LI location. Equal Opportunit Equal Opportunit major athletic footwear brand with e offer a unique environment w/ e offer a unique environment with ord, E-mail required. Min 5 years exp License Coordinator- or fax to 212.398.0703 attn: L. Albert. to work with development, sales, and SusieJessil We will only contact those candidates Assistant-detailed oriented individual prod. dept’s. Advanced skills in Excel, We will only contact those candidates Email resume: [email protected] resume and salary requirements to: Licensing Coordinator competitive salaries &benefits. comprehensive Sendhistory resume to:Moret, Inc. with SBH 14118th Floor or Email to: salary Broadway-Dept. Intimates/Jacques LC- competitive salaries &benefits. comprehensive Send resumetory to: with salary his- T.D. Bottomswear w/PDM ...... $65-90K Product Mgr Outerwear ...... $60K Jr. Designer Outerwear ...... $50K Product Mgr Wovens ...... $50K SBH Intimatesseeking a license /Jacquesyears coordinator with experience Moretand 1-3 brand licensing for division. is Responsi- bilities include: our submittinging character and all track- artthrough final and approval, daily samples communi- cation from with concept internally with licensors, design, merchandising, and production depts. and working Candidate must havetional strong and communication organiza- skillsBS & BA/ degreeGraphic inPhotoshop preferred. skills fashion. inW Computer/ Illustrator & Fashion Accessory co.Licensing seek Coordinator organized licensed product for division.keep Submit children’ track and ofconcept all art and throughyears fashion background preferred. samples from final approval. 1-2 A W 125sporting goodsSr. business yrs. level is Men’s Apparelqualified seeking Designer. This a candidatemore heritage yrs. will experienceapparel have design in & Men’s 10sporting will goods work accounts in with in sport or athleticcialty major spe- newly & the must created deptdesign have position, &development, be stores. a candidate responsible merchandising,presentations, spec for: sheets, communica- In proven Design tion board ability with this research, overseas fittings in garment agents, &Candidate construction must market knowledge havein a BA/BS of & Degree graphic Fashion skillsPhotoshop. fabrics. Design in Mac & Illustrator computer/ & W ) y

J. Mendel Fax resume to 212-202-6297. JOBS JOBS JOBS JR DRESS DESIGNER ith all aspects of inventory. pparel Design, and Supply Chain INVENTORY SPECIALIST Designers - Assists - Assoc - Boy or Girl Production Assists Entry Level-College Grads Artists: Boys or Girls or Yg Mens or Juniors Call (212) 643-8090; fax 643-8127 (agc in Sanacross Francisco,preferred. the Newhttp://www.levistrauss.com/careers/ USA. York,Levi Online and For Straussemployer, resumes & stronglydiverse workforce. Co. committed is details to an a EEO/AA see *Import Traffic Mgr or Assist - Apparel *Production: Mgrs - Coords - Assists *Production Coord - Bilingual Chinese * *Technical Designers & Assistants Immediate position infast NYC growing area co.in for Extensive a knowledge dressescreative, & motivatedMin 3 sportswear. and yrsto: Richard 212- 768-7856 experience. Must resourceful. Pls be fax resume Levi Strauss & Co.nities has career for opportu- specialists executives, managers,Marketing, in and FinanceA Advertising/PR, & IT, Accounting, High end companycomputer seeks experienced, savvyw individual to work Seeking highexpert. Fax resume to 212-244-5136. end/couture retail sales * *Designer Assistant Boys-Young Mens *

K g K $50-80K .... .com y Based in King of Prussia, PA. Call (212) 221-0870 , a fast growing Palm Beach inspired Collection y four-year college degree required. è 201-662-1588 ment@rousson ARTIST y Resumes can also be faxed to (610) 878-9039. [email protected] brand in this marketing channel. A minimum of 4 yrs. Stores Marketing Manager responsible for building the of Women’s and Children’s products, is seeking a Major experience in major department store marketing and a emplo Major Stores Marketing Manager and other pertinent information to [email protected]. CAREER OPPORTUNITIES: Interested Lilly loving candidates should email their resume GRAPHIC ARTIST Please call 212-972-9300 or e-mail: Lilly Pulitzer MAC-photo/ill nec/nice co. $35-45K Please fax resume to 212-239-2766. Please fax resume to: 212-971-2277 GRAPHIC/TEXTILE GRAPHIC Design-1-3 yrs exp doing Woven’s Fabric. Exp w/fabrication & buying out of Italy and Western Europe) Temp and Freelance positions also available. DESIGNER/MERCHANDISER...... $ to 150K RETAIL ANALYST/PLANNER Les Richards Agc (10 pos in Wovens, Cut & Sew Knits, Denim) ( (Oppty’s in men’s/women’s/urban exp in Photoshop, Illustrator, or U4IA) (Men’s, Women’s, and Children’s) (Boy’s wear/Activewear/Urbanwear) (Men’s, Women’s, Children’s) (Women’s dresses/swimwear/sportswear) (Knits) generic artwork for an Infant-6x/7 mfr/ GROMWELL GROUP *ADMIN COORDINATOR...... $45-50K (Assist Dir. of Retail Operations) *BUYER...... $ to 60K Import/Production Clerk NJ based women’simport/production clerk apparel w firm /to needs 1-2 assist yrs wimport exp. / record data distribution.up entry w of / shipmentstion, Followin factories / for knowledgedetailed, document clarifica- organized ofmulti task. Please fax or email resume: & l/c’s. have ability Must to be *CAD DESIGNER...... $40-60K *DESIGN ASSOCIATES...... $45-70K *DESIGNERS (3)...... $60-75K * (Positions avail in Jr’s, men’s, sleepwear) *DESIGNERS...... $50-100K PRODUCTION...... $30-100K * *SOURCING/PRODUCTION...... $100-160 Major apparelskilled company inMust seeks Photoshop have experience artist and withand toddlers. girls-infant Illustrator. Major Appareling manufacturer is agraphic/textile seek- creativechildrenswear andmust artist division. have selfPhotshop substantial skills, Illustrator motivated strong color Individual ability and sense for to and createpeat prints in multiple colorways. screen graphics & our re- *TECHNICAL DESIGNERS...... $40-80 . R .com y College.edu y s@freecountr y Fax: 973-278-0080 FIT MODEL VP OF SALES West Paterson, NJ 07424. full time size 10 Fit Model. Send resume & cover letter: OUTERWEAR Garment Industry firm seeks Send resume to: Fashion Search, or email: ga@Berkele Please fax resume to 212-719-2942 FREE COUNTRY FASHION FACULTY 212-719-2051/jod Berkeley College, 44 Rifle Camp Road WOMEN’S DESIGNE Knowledge of textiles, product develop- ment, buying,merchandise planning and control. visual merchandising, Seeking Top Execdivisions. Pro to Must oversee be& several dynamic, highly innovative qualified.outerwear Min 7 sales yearshigh level contacts. & exp in management with Seeking talented,for seasoned ladies Designer &able girls to outerwear.packages. Illustrator/Photoshop a must. execute Must detailed be flats & tech along with significant industry experience Privatefashion collegepreferred, seeks program. Master’s faculty degree required, Ph.D for degree s . Mfr

516-221-7098 [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 FABRIC y fax to: 212-239-4261. EVERLAST Please Call or Fax resume to: DRESSMAKER Please e-mail resumes & salary Men/Women’s Technical Designer PREMIER SKIRTING PRODUCTS ith Illustrator & Excel. Qualifica- /fine women’s eveningwear & suiting. WORLDWIDE INC. F/T positions avail. for Tablecloth SusieJessil Tel: 516-239-6581 / Fax: 516-239-6810 requirements to: [email protected] or Fabric Cutter/Sewing Operators •Assist Fabric Buyer ...... $45K •Assist Print & Pattern...... $45K w specs, 2-3 yrsket. exp. in Responsible Urbancommunication / with for Jr’s overseas mar- & vendors tech working with packages, development, etc. design director on the Must be experienced &w qualified to work Freelance available. Multipleavailable. positions NiceLocated working environment. inPlease call Pina at: Bellmore, Long Island. Leading branded companytail seeks a oriented de- personmunication with skills. strong Must com- be proficient tions should include Men / Women’ Sew fromstart to finish. PT/FT possible. 18 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MAY 14, 2003 Support EveryoneNeeds. akg hc nldsMedical benefits includes and which competitive flexible a their package offer career own We doing comprehensive their well. growing only in as but not - best in feel supported employees our where environment W A w Y Y A Merchandising icut,absns aulwork casual employee business environment andmore. a reimbursement, discounts, tuition plan, pension 401K, Dental/Life/Vision, xct h iulmarketing visual the to and needed initiatives. create components execute and the manage mix; merchandise n taeyadtcis product tactics, and strategy presentation andsalestechniques. market- ing include promoting, principals to products showing, selling of and for presentation methods knowledge and product and ability, visual excellent skills, strong possess interpersonal communication, Must merchandising visual work 5-7 experience. and with retail equivalent along years required, or is experience Marketing ing, raeipc tterti ee.You level. to retail the Merchandising retail impact at impact visual with and create and work Marketing outposts, and stories presentations, product merchandise design a accomplish consistent to consistent brandimage. worldwide can utilized that merchan- be standards ensure and manage guidelines dise and brand and presentation, and to image integrity all concepts company at develop enhance concepts locations, retail merchandis- retail of visual direction overall responsi- ing the domestic product be for include stores, ble to international level through and retail the initiatives at marketing Brand and presentation Jockey okevrnetweeour their growing in only where but not - own careeraswell. best in environment their supported doing feel work associates a HR, 230060thSt.,Kenosha,WI53141 Visit ourwebsiteatwww.jocke une togcetv blt to ability creative strong a need ou the of image the manage will ou oky er omte ocreating to committed we’re Jockey, t a,1t lo,NwYr,N 00;E-mail: further 10003; for selected NY candidates those to York, respond only consideration. 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America, site J.Crew e-commerce in Journal, an stores and plus million, 150 With Send resumeto:JockeyInt’l,Attn: [email protected] or ahlrsdge nMerchandis- in degree Bachelor’s MERCHANDISING JOCKEY apply online.EOEM/F/D/V. Fax: 262-653-3014E-mail: It’s theKindof Height: 5’’71/2-5’9"Bust:36Waist27Hips:39 Executive AssistanttothePresident 2nd Admin.AsstforCEO’sOffice Fit Model-fulltimeposition .rw tn sf/w,70Broad- 770 as/fm/wwd, Attn: J.Crew, .rw tn ke/w,70Broad- 770 kk/ea/wwd, Attn: J.Crew, y .Ce:At ka/w,770 kk/aa/wwd, Attn Crew: J. .com / Two lgimportersexp’dPlannersw/Wal must. a cut production Excellent salaryandbenefits. bias and of first Knowledge do patterns. to eveningwear. able be couture Must in Experienced PLUS. a contacts store accessories. Some travel. or TIER apparel developers sets, MID product gift exp’d N/I in seek co’s Est’d MRCHR/SLS (2)BABYPRODUCTSHI$ Apparel Staffin PATTERNMAKER Mart Exp&RetailLink.FaxResume Prod’n Coords(2)To $50K A.D. FORMANASSOC. Childrenswear Manufacturer - Bilingual KARLYN FASHIONRECRUITERS Please faxresumeto(212)840-7544 esfcois Technical experience aplus. factories. over- seas our to packages sent de- are which product complete do tailed be & to Must able must. embroidery a beading of Knowl- edge designer. knits woven & novelty & motivated innovative, creative, ly high- a seeking is company Sportswear Missy Leading 450 7thAve.(ACGY)268-6123 re- confidential sume to: your cus- E-mail sation. Compen- and Good skills. service merchandising tomer experience. exceptional in a have ability with on for must Candidate looking manager boutique is store avenue Fashion Madison Leading Fax resume:Attn.CEO $800K. guaranteed. to Sourcing $400K Confidentiality as Global and Dept. merchandising Dept Accounts, Design and Major major between regional Retail role interface sales Active servicing its in nationwide. seeks divisions lead programs experienced Mfr. to sales Apparel Merchants U.S. several 40M PLANNERS (2)$60’s Merchandise Mgr. Attn Carla201-894-1186ore-mail Please faxresumeto: STORE MANAGER [email protected] DESIGNER 732-919-0568 V.P. 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Excel (Word, skills computer or 7 Photo- version W Classic & PDM Gerber Illustrator shop, Mac Requirements: sketching fortops,bottoms&activewear. Production oriented A highly detail a organized, seeking company apparel Men’s Mini- English. / mum 2yearsexperience.Faxresumeto: Chinese literate in computer bilingual be & Must woven division. / suits sweater in individual & organized aggressive seeks importer Apparel NY fast-paced & Multi-task env. KnowlofExcelandWordamust. organize etc. an contractors, orders, for w/ follow-up looking to person mfr suit Ladies v MS req’d: to Exp able W efficiently. be good and very multi-task have skills, o must communication Merchandise VP Indiv the the Manager. experi- and assist an to Merchandising seeking self-starter is enced Inc. Star Movie xeinewt a-atRti Link Prior Retail plus. also helpful. Wal-Mart a with experience experience AS400 must, esadhntg.Fxrsm with resume Fax la- salar hangtags. order and and bels library swatch factories, w/ maintain communicate boards, tion Production Coordinato Production Assistant/ Production Coordinator A. LaFranceat212-736-2349oremail: noyblne,asml presenta- assemble balances, entory Production Assistant Production Assistant ss/ehia einrwt i 3 min with Designer ssist/Technical bPM irgaxDsge.Basic Designer. Micrografx PDM, eb orders purchase process Excel, ord, fe necletcompensation excellent an offer e Fax resumewithsalaryhistoryto: Equal Opportunit Technical Designer Competitive salary&benefits. Product Assistant y COORDINATOR Fax resumeto:212-869-5393 Fax resumeto212-239-2766 to:HR212-684-3295. [email protected] PRODUCTION 509-479-9506 212-842-3217 212-730-1094 y Emplo y er M/F trim m ut rvosslsepapu,willing plus, a exp sales Previous must! r n d a f x Cpro oass CMr Inspec Mgr. QC assist to person QC exp t arc&onmnainfrappearanc for ornamentation & fabric ate uiainsil.Cmue skills Computer skills. munication ecads.Ms osscreative posses Must merchandise. ae xctv ihstrong with Executive Sales chain/department storecontacts. for looking a company mens/boys Large Ideal int’l possible travel. FaxresumetoHR: confident. & growth oriented, & for opportunity fashion literate be computer opening. must level junior/entry Candidate great Knit Sales/Int’l. has Yarn Mfr. - based York New train. Opptyforgrowthintosalesposition Assist w organized well aggressive, Seeking v A W in inspection Communicate w defects. & sewing w/ compliance CFM / to garments A Email: [email protected](NYCloc.) Fax withsalaryinfo:(914)962-2257 *Prod. Asst./Men’sUrbanwearTo32K *Prod. Coor./WalmartApparelSpec.To50K *Prod. Coor./JewelryTo40K *Prod. Coor./AccessoriesTo50K Must haveexperienceinthefollowing... PRODUCTION POSITIONS$$ yrs organized, 2-3 have highly Must production importexp. literate. be oriented, Must computer production. on detail thru follow Coordinator to Production time full Seeking eeis netvs n competitive hours. & and salary. Faxresumeto: evening incentives, Village No Benefits, County. Westchester Fairfield downtown aaeeteprec na in environment. with fashion experience someone contemporary for Management looking boutique RETAIL Production Coordinato P/T FitModel/Assistant ieses&pcigisrcin.Evalu- instructions. packing & specs size RETAIL MANAGER/SALES Retail Plannerto$60K Sales AssociateF/T&P/T QUALITY CONTROL sa kls oae ncharming in Located skills. isual E-mail resume to:[email protected] Sales Asst./Merchandiser Renowned JapaneseDesignerSeeks Waist-26.5 Hips-36.5Height5’7"-5’8". prlipre /eacsws seeks whse w/Secaucus importer pparel SALES ASST.-Jeans ritten reports. iiyt el aaesaf and staff, manage sell, to bility Must beasize5or7.NewEuropean odfsinsne&srn com- strong & sense fashion good / Assist DesignRoomandShowroom Jennifer*Just Mgmt.*800-544-5878 r otmoaywomens contemporary a are e SALES EXECUTIVE 1-2 yearsexperienceinjeansales. Department storeexp.-replenish- Required Measurements:-Bust-35 individuals withexperience,energy ments, allocations&inventory. Entry-Level Sales and styletojoinaselectteam. line tocompetewiththebest. Fax resumeto212-869-5330 Sales Assistant/ Fax resume:(212)398-9695 Asst. Manager/ Fax resume:212-214-0449 Please call(917)841-8756 Please faxresumeattn: [email protected] 914-723-0626 Retail Operations Great Stuff (212) 391-8027 212-428-6758 Fax resumeto:Pat

201-750-3317 to r a . e t . klsams.23yaseprec re- experience years 2-3 quired, knowledgeofexcelaplus. must. a patternmakingskills specs fromsketches, develop sheets to able garment and specs, construction grading in background sketching, flat strike-of & dip lab development knowledge, including: spec/fit production product stages through in fromtechnical expertise ealflo-p utb rfcetin proficient be Excel andhighlyorganized. Must order follow-up. include detail duties production Other n owrigifraint factories to information designer, forwarding corrections w/ and making sessions seeks garments, fit specing experienc attending Importer yrs in 2 minimum with Outerwear candidate Ladies Technician woven Spec and seeks A knit o 0/6X-7 sportswear Boys Importer & Girls Childrenswear Leading 5 develop network, exp. [email protected] established years have to resources. Package Must domestic Full matrix, for International price/delivery supplier PRO negotiate maintain well exp’d prospects, seeks Mfr. organized Apparel NJ Ctrl resume withsalaryrequirementsto: opportunity. Forconsideration,send hensive benefits&anexcellentgrowth W are Com- skills req’d. exp. Woven puter proficiencyreq’d. communication & Knits req’d. & organiza- Strong tional coun- follow-up. & sample ter negotiations price approvals, A W knits o/seas in knowl- of spec & edge essential. pricing Construction evaluation wovens. & & & manufacturing Sourcing designer women’s techni- In Sketching, cal knowledgeamust. handbags. exp. & shoes years 5 collection. v raie eoreu ehia Indi- technical & resourceful Creative, experienced SpecTechtoworkon2-16 Please faxresumetowithsalaryreqs SPEC TECHNICIAN Spec Tech/Production experience aplus)Pleasefaxresume: da o eeomn xcto o execution & development for idual Large childrenswearimporterseeks Visit usatwww.newport-news.com Attention Jennifer@(212)967-7494 Newport News,Inc.711ThirdAve. s.Cniaesol aerelated have should Candidate sst. with exp. import direct yrs. 3+ w/ sst. e offercompetitivesalaryw/compre- seeks co. catalog specialty omen’s SPEC TECHNICIAN Must havesameindustryExp.To email [email protected] Sourcing Assistant to (212)967-8108Attn:An sizes -allcategories.(Bottoms PROFESSIONAL NY 10017ATTN:HR/EG PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT ACCESSORIES DESIGNER Fax resumeto: 212-594-3999 FREELANCE/PART TIME qualif ASSISTANT SENIOR DESIGNER SOURCING fax-(212) 916-8320 y

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Childrenswear Leading indi- seeks v Co Outerwear/Sportswear resume andsalar designer tech seeks w co. apparel Men’s have Must salary Excellent and benefitspackage. skills. systems. analytical and good abilities employees communication support current excellent and train on background help industry to apparel with ual individ- seeks company Manufacturing Technical Designer...... $45K ...... $55-70K Prod’n Mgr good exp. with with environment benefits. 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PRODUCTMGR Please faxresumeto212-239-2766 Technical Designer Fax Sam:212-682-8979oremail: TECH DESIGNER Z. CavaricciGirls y (212) 967-6004Attn:Jennifer FAX RESUME:212-354-5196 [email protected] Technical Spec EXPERIENCE? [email protected] SWEATERS SYSTEMS y y [email protected] Call212-947-3400 [email protected] Call212-947-3400 (212) 252-9176 212-730-2421 y reqsto212-290-8176 x y s f l / WWD, WEDNESDAY, MAY 14, 2003 - 19 , R or .** y est’d .com y Have ahoo.com y 404681-1942 ewelr 1-800-667-1770 j / Fax: 212.989.5421 404-681-1945 labels background required. NOMINATION bridal. Please call 718-239-9423 Lingerie Sales Pro Visit www.radiantdevp.com & I Am Your Man I Am Your ***APPAREL EMPLOYERS *** Jewelry Sales Rep. anneb@nomination couture, custom made, evening, & Aggressive Sales Pro MW, SE, Department stores, private Do you need exp’d DESIGNERS, PRODUC **CALL 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agc SHOWROOM SALES E-mail to: radiantdevp@ 20 years experience from lingerie too Tel: FREELANCE PATTERNMAKE Independent Sales Leading knit/woven mfg. in China seeks exp’d independent sales for East Coast Hard working within junior over sportswear 10 market. contacts years at exp chain & discount stores. Call 212-535-1553 department, specialty, Seeksloungewear showroomsales, and daywear.tacts sleepwear, Strong with con- Dept.,Chain stores. Call John: 516-536-8576. Specialty and Major Dynamic Sales Pro w/14at years leading travel better exp. seeks women’s knitwear to co. establishtation multi-line w/better represen- missymfrs. & Extensive contemporary accountquality base catalogs, dept. w/better &plus specialty stores prime Mart. room in Atlanta Apparel 11th floor atrium show- San Francisco; Wash. DC;Los Angeles; Chicago; Boston; Canada Dallas; Atlanta; Fast-growing Italian Jewelrysales Co. rep seeks to servicestores and existing open fine new jewelry autonomous, accounts. self Must starter. be Please Fax Int’l. women’s contemporary blouse,& knit sweater importer basedQuebec, in seeks Montreal, aggressive,based commission Salesperson.contacts Must with have medium/largeOur chain strong stores. lines areoffice available at incall Mr. Ken Goodman: our Manhattan. New York For more info, TION, ACCOUNTING, TECHNICAL etc. staff? E-mail resume & salary requirements to: E-mail resume & salary requirements . SALES to our NY office. Fax: 212-214-0383 Fax: 212-391-1530 SALES PRO JNS FASHIONS SALESPERSON SALESPERSON (Intimate Apparel Industry) Fax resume to: 212-239-1448 E-mail: [email protected] website: www.donnaloren.com SALES PERSON/ industry’s most prestigious and to Major Dept./Chains. We offer Please forward resume & salary Donna L’Oren Group (New York Attractive Salary Pkg. and Growth SKINCARE SPECIALIST ORLANE, PARIS corporate office), one of the fashion e’re looking to hire, motive & train the omen’s apparel. Person must have Opportunity. For more info visit our ith our co. Please Fax/E-mail resume to: 212-750-0602 / [email protected] innovative organizations, seeking Sr. SR. SALES EXECUTIVE Sales Exec with current experience in the intimate apparel indusrty, selling SALES REP WANTED mum of 5exp., years and cosmetic/skincare neat sales &Customer professional service appearance. skills asales must. Assertive personality,skills, strong and customerW clienteleing following aqualified plus! person for aw long-termcareer Seeking ason highly for motivated our Newleast salesper- 5 York yrs. sales sales officew exp w/ in at jr. and plus size Fax resume [email protected] or e-mail to: Sales ref. to: (305) 597-9436 Motivated Salespersonleast for 5 yrsapparel. NY sales exp.retailers, Must discount showroom, in & have women’s chainFax: 212-944-5000/ [email protected] at current missy stores. Salary/comm. & contacts plus w/major Newly established NYC& based Sandal Slipper sales Co. rep formass merchants. seeking new line sales with contacts person/ to Experienced salespersondesign with &presentation textile Print and background. organizationalrequired. skills Knowledgeprinting Good of a heat plus.ment transfer with Greatresume: 212-967-5099 attn: Office Mgr. good work benefits. environ- Please fax Updatedcompany better seeks salesresults-oriented pro. missy Aggressive, specialty/chain stores. Good package. with sportswear following in Exp’d. Skincare Specialistmajor needed NY for retailer.benefits for Generous individual salary who has & a mini- contacts w/stores, major and retailers,salary/comm./bonus.Some private travel discount labeling.Excellent req’d f J y to R c.com y ahoo.com 201-549-1055 (212) 966-3994 y e-n (310) 327-8070 g pro@ ua y g [email protected] SALES OTB SALES New York, NY 10001 . Fax resume to: with following, to work nat’l y email: [email protected] CHICAGO/MINNESOTA Pls. send resume to Box # 1070 Pls. send resume to domestic mfr. seeks professional Helen@lan Sales Executive Fax resume to 718-743-5466 7 West 34th Street, 4th Floor 7 West 34th Street, Please fax or e-mail resume in retailaccessor confidence to 1-800-221-5709 or JUNIOR DENIM JUNIOR seller, major Dept. stores & chain stores. Fax in confidence @ SALES ASSOCIATE SALES ASSOCIATE world leader in the fashion accessory SALES EXECUTIVE SALES EXECUTIVE Tel: 212-302-3744, Fax: 212-302-8589 We offer benefits and a great oppty! Please fax resume to (212) 869-0246 Jeanswear Division. Merchandising ttn: Helen or email resume to Seeks sales exec for Jr/Girls Tops & / strong dept./specialty chain contacts MISSES UPDATED SPORTSWEAR MISSES UPDATED SALES MANAGER $150K Missy, Sweaters. Mid Tier & Dept Stores Call, fax or email resume to Lisa Cheung Est’d experienced salesperson with current missy/plus size knit tops & bottoms working relationships & contacts with skills a plus. Must have est’d contacts. CHANGE FOR THE BETTER! Sales/Customer Service Rep Major dress & sportswear Co. seeks an REGIONAL DIRECTO accts. from Co. NY shwrm. Salary plus. FASHION NETWORK 201-503-1060/Fax 1070 Fax resume to:917-342-9001 Attn: Jerr seeks experienced salesour pro distribution. to expand Musthave be est’d energetic contactsdiscount & w/major stores. chainsExcellent opp. for right person. & Salary+commission. business isexecutive seeking arecord with in hard fieldcandidate a management. working The will ideal experience successful have withconsistently the track 8+ increase proven sales yearsMust ability and also profits. to retail haveership, highly communication, developed team lead- building, analytical and training skills. This is requirements to Immediate position!in Position NoLita located and store. Greatgrowth! excellent compensation Fax resumeA benefits. to: Roomfor Specialty Textile Co.seeks telephone in sales Secaucus,Computer, & administrative N service & person. necessar fabric exp. Established moderateseeks sportswear aggressivedepartment co salescontacts person and forFax 212-768-9058 or call 212-221-1155 with missy specialty and store plus size. Est’d importersweaters/knits of seeksw experienced moderate pro novelty Est’d importer of popular/ priced junior Major Jr. denimresource seeks Depart- ment Store based Salesexperience Executive with inMust have product completeall understanding development. sales/merchandising o aspectsmajor players. of Only the heavy-hittersapply. need an excellent opportunity toand supervise your own region. train, motivate Hip(www.unisourceinc.com) isself-motivated seeking and individual a ence with experi- markets. in Must trendyrelationships have with the clients currentknowledge. & proven computer better Email showroom resume women/men w/salary cultivate newaccounts. and Positive maintainfollow-up skills a must. energy existing & strong A strong HAVE

Sales 646-383-3325 MUST PRIVATE LABEL Please fax resume to Lauren: Seeking strongJunior sales denim execseeking division. an for individual experienced Wein are sellingstores to slecialtysales develop and plan andhave & succesful dept. execute distribution. salesstrong record Must and contacts.experience req’d. 3 + years

[email protected] , a Division of Oxford Industries - a EOE/M/F/D/V you are applying for. , the fast growing Palm Beach inspired , the fast growing Palm Beach retail buying experience. DANSKIN, Inc. 54600 Atlanta, Ga. 30308 è resume and salary requirements. Account Executive or Fax resumes to: (212) 930-9103. Come and make a difference with us.

resume and other pertinent information to resume and other pertinent information Please fax resumes 212-764-6912 [email protected]. Resumes can also be [email protected]. Resumes years of major store wholesale experience. years of major store wholesale West Coast Sales Associate West Coast Lanier Clothes or e-mail: [email protected] faxed to (610) 878-9039. Please specify position faxed to (610) 878-9039. Please (917) 591-6908. E-mail resumes to Fax resume to: Specialty Store business. Based in Los Angeles, this Specialty Store business. Based Interested Lilly loving candidates should email their Interested Lilly loving candidates manage and develop the company’s Signature and manage and develop the company’s We are also seeking a West Coast Sales Associate to We are also seeking a West Coast Lilly Pulitzer SALES REP Great Atmosphere! Key Account Sales Associate and Sales Associate Key Account York based position requires analytical skills and 4 to 6 York based position requires position will travel extensively and requires 1 to 3 years position will travel extensively dynamic men’s tailored clothing company, send us your Major Store Key Account Sales Associate to manage and Major Store Key Account Sales Potential for growth! We’re develop the company’s major store account base. This New develop the company’s major Collection of Women’s and Children’s products, is seeking a Collection of Women’s and Children’s Send resume and salary history to: Lanier HR, PO Box ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE - sales, selling large retailers, and would like to be a part of a sales, selling large retailers, and would like to be a part of sales pro to join our team. If you have experience in apparel Success. Opportunity. Growth. Empowerment. company where people make a difference. We are seeking a company where people make a difference. We are seeking Candidate must haveexperience in servicing major private label accounts. a minimum of 3-years sales Well established branded active apparelmediate company has opening andevelop im- new for territories nationally. experienced Account Executive to department stores background.plus. Strong Active retailrequired. wear planning Position experience & basedCompetitive compensation & benefits package. a account in management New skills York. Travel is required. Established sportswear co. with uniqueseeking sales product professional w/ is contacts &perience account ex- withcos., mail major order departmentspecialty & stores. Minimum of 5Must be yearswith organizational self experience. &tail motivated de- skills.knowledge a must. Private label - / r f f y d E E o

& acct sweater indiv. w/ .com y [email protected] j (212) 947-7865 Fax resume to DN at: motivated Sales Executive 212-869-6214 wear and leather sportswear

call 212-972-9300 SALES PRO DAVID N JEANSWEAR 212-683-8571 attn: Lisa L. or SPECIALISTS HOUSE REP SALES PROFESSIONALS e-mail: Lisa@frenchjenn Fax resume and salary req. to: [email protected] or relationships essential. Please email your resume to and Missy. Send resumes to:

212-391-2997. No calls please. (212) 643-2826. No calls please. Jones NY Leather APPAREL SALES SALES SUPPORT Immediate openings for Account list. Salary + Comm. Great Oppty! leading Manhattan based childrenswea JR ACCOUNT EXEC ith 3-5 years exp. with specialty store ery detail-oriented, teamplayer. 4-5 ill be a jump start in Specialty Store Bridge Jewelry Sales Please fax resume to: (212) 302-9325 [email protected] or fax resume to TEXTILE DESIGN & DESIGN TEXTILE imptr. seeks highly talented isits, market week prep, etc. Strong idual must have strong contacts with Ladies activewear/knit tops/ & ior’s, Children’s, Women’s Sportswear, XOXO Outerwear/Sportswear ARTWORK ORGANIZER ARTWORK Email resumes to: sales INTIMATE APPAREL yrs exp.$165K. in If related interested, pleaseresume to [email protected]. field. e-mail your Salary $140- computer skills a must.salary Please history include resume and fax to and requirements with major chains/dept.fice stores., exp., knowledge buying ofthe of- retail as ability well as to analyze gross margin. Major Department Storefacturer Sleepwear Manu- seeks Jr.w Account Executive who Growing, successful mfrtextile outer of leather & w accounts. Please Major international jeanswear compan to introduceprofessionals new needed power forstore mid-tier, brand. & dept. Exp’ specialtyin markets. woman’s, Opportunities juniors &Solid men’s categories. Leading Robe/Sleepweartop co. salesperson seekstions with to a outlets, strong major & dept connec- chains.confidence to: [email protected]. Please stores, email catalogue CV in major accounts. Must alsooriented be and very computer detail open. literate. All Salary repliesPlease fax full resume to (212) 947-0134 kept strictly confidential. Looking for experiencedin career sales missy person have and strong petite background sales. working Must with a versatile individualexperience with and 3 a yrs. fullretail understanding retail sales, advertisingdising. Duties and include assisting merchan- accounts, VP managing with chandisers, dept. sales analysis store reports,v store mer- NY based Bridge Jewelry vendor seeking ACCOUNT EXECUTIV Major accessory &v shoe retailer. Indi- V ACCOUNT EXECUTIV A co. ismotivated currently children’s seekingExecutive. apparel a Will Account maintain be high-level strong resp salesexisting to relationships & develop w newextensive & customers. children’s Mustand have apparel sales exp. contacts maintain Will track retailInvolvement appropriate sales with & merchandisingproduct stock development. and Musttravel. Excellent salary & benefits. be levels. avail to design & artwork resume attn: Kathy Benefits. Please fax reference materials. Exciting Textile Coto needs studio organize librarian and maintain variety o Executives and Sales Assistants in Jun Sales. The Jr.tory A/E will and have sales their goalable own responsibility. terri- to Must workMust be local be Tradeenjoy enthusiastic, Show a detail fast weekends. paced, orientedSupport FUN and atmosphere. to Sales helps manage Senior dayMust be computer/Excel literate. to Account day office Executives: operation. seeks highly min 5-10 yrs exp. w/ connections 20 A Tale of Two Poets NEW YORK — The most widely known anecdote about “Fear of Flying,” Jong is working on another task, the poet Sappho concerns her death: She is said to have this one long-running — turning her 1980 novel thrown herself off a cliff because of unrequited love for “Fanny” into a musical. Her top choice for the the hunky boatman Phaon. Erica Jong, whose new novel lead, which she once summed up by asking, Arts is “Sappho’s Leap” (W. W. Norton & Co.), contends that “What if Tom Jones were a woman?” she notes, this story is nothing more than the fabrication of jealous is Bernadette Peters because, “I’ve been male writers who wanted to undermine their rival’s following her for years. She has a wonderful credibility. There were, after all, many satires that voice and her renditions of songs are not like caricatured Sappho after her death. anybody else’s.” “Fanny” has been optioned by & WWD, WEDNESDAY, MAY 14, 2003 WWD, WEDNESDAY, Jong maintains that there is no theme or metaphor the Manhattan Theatre Club. People in lyric poetry — or for that matter, song — that was At 61, Jong is still blonde, attractive and not created first by Sappho. She is justly celebrated for youthful-looking. She lives in a big, stylishly furnished such lines as “I have a daughter like a golden flower” apartment on the Upper East Side and in Weston, and “a subtle fire runs under my skin.” “Every poet of Conn., with her fourth husband, Kenneth David consequence from Catullus to Sylvia Plath has Burrows, who’s a lawyer, and also with a black standard rediscovered and reinterpreted Sappho,” Jong says, poodle, Belinda Barkowitz. When she published “Fear “and all these years, she has never got the credit for of Flying,” Jong says, she was a poet and a medieval it.” In short, Jong contends that Sappho is the mother scholar in a Ph.D. program at Columbia. The book was a of all poets. cataclysm, she recalls: “I went from being obscure to “Sappho’s Leap” is a rollicking, imaginative re- being the kind of person other people call in the middle creation of her life, times and writings, using historical of the night.” She actually spent a year replying to characters such as Aesop, Sappho’s slave Praxinoa and readers who had written her about the book and their the courtesan Rhodopis as part of the mix. Needless to personal experiences; it wasn’t until later that she say, the central character, who is bisexual, doesn’t commit realized that she didn’t owe them anything and didn’t suicide — in fact, she doesn’t even die in the book. have the time to do that. It seems appropriate that Jong would take on the As a writer, she says, her primary motivation is to calumny that has attached itself to Sappho’s get the reader to “turn the page.” Her next project will reputation, since she began her career as a poet and concern aging, the way in which women in particular has published six books of poetry in addition to her find that they are devalued as they get older. eight novels. Then, too, she’s known for giving voice to These days, however, the woman who helped unheard women’s thoughts, as in her famous liberate so many others from sexual conservatism, bestseller, “Fear of Flying,” which celebrates its 30th says that “the door opened in the Sixties and anniversary this year. “A lot of my books are an Seventies to sexual freedom hasn’t fulfilled its attempt to find women’s histories that are the histories promise. Younger people today, if they’re not totally of women rewritten by men,” Jong says. Sappho, who self-destructive, feel that they want to settle down with was Greek, lived 2,600 years ago, 200 years after partners.” Her own daughter, Molly Jong-Fast, Homer and a short while after Plato. But unlike those daughter of Jong and her third husband Jonathan Fast, writers, most of what remains of her poetry is who is also a writer, has never read her mother’s fragments. Some of the latter, Jong reveals, were books because she doesn’t want her writing to be actually so little regarded that the papyrus they were influenced by them. Jong-Fast, who wrote “Normal written on was used to wrap mummies, and the poems Girl,” is engaged and is writing a series for Modern were only preserved and discovered by chance. Bride about her upcoming wedding. Erica Jong at home.

In addition to her new book and the anniversary of — Lorna Koski TURNER DAVID BY PHOTO Watched, Monitored and Highly Anticipated... from retail and marketers’ executive offices to Wall Street.

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