WHERE TO DINE Sebastián bar, and continue Juan Mari Arzak has been consis- on for a memorable meal in the tently cited as one of the world’s hotel’s Asian-themed Café BASQUE COUNTRY top chefs for adapting traditional Saigon or its regional gourmet Basque cooking to his high-style restaurant, Pensión Easo. Expect unique wines and boundary-pushing cuisine. His restaurant, Arzak, cuisine in this ruggedly beautiful region. has garnered three Michelin stars OTHER ACTIVITIES since 1989. Under Chef Andoni Scenic walks abound in the Luis Aduriz, Mugaritz, located region. Head from the town of The Basque Country, or País Vasco, in northern Spain includes in the middle of a beautiful oak Zarautz to Zumaia, taking in the must-visit cities of San Sebastián and . Its arresting forest in Erenteria, has long been views of vineyards and seaside terrain lies between the Bay of , the Ebro River (which considered a temple to gastron- clif s. Cross a stone bridge from nourishes the vineyards of and Navarra) omy. It artfully bridges the gap Bermeo to the island of San and France. between avant-garde and tradi- Juan de Gaztelugatxe, and climb tional Basque food. 241 steps to a tiny church dedi- The region’s complex history has yielded a fiercely cated to John the Baptist. It’s a independent spirit preserved in Basque wine and cuisine. WHERE TO STAY perfect way to work of those rich Traditional yet trendsetting and abundant in local seafood, Hotel Maria Cristina, located in Basque meals. renowned Spanish Chef Ferran Adrià has called San the center of San Sebastián’s his- Sebastián’s food, “The best in the world.” toric district, lies just steps away BUDGET TIP In the towns along the coast, medieval cathedrals from the city’s pristine beaches. If you plan to visit the Its 107 rooms and 25 suites are Guggenheim Museum Bilbao, and winding cobblestone streets sit alongside modern decorated in the Belle Époque buy a Bono Artean ticket—the architectural marvels, all within a stone’s throw of scenic style that was popular when it discounted price of $15 gets Atlantic beaches, not to mention bars offering pintxos opened in 1912. Meet friends for you into the Bilbao Fine Arts (small plate appetizers) with each glass of delicious wine. a drink in the elegant Dry San Museum, too. —Mike DeSimone & Jeff Jenssen

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2016 HOTEL MARIA CRISTINA MUGARITZ SIDRERĺA PETRITEGI

LOCAL IN THE KNOW PROMINENT WINES Dhane Chesson, who grew up summering near San Sebas- Fresh and slightly effervescent tián and now works for Wines of Rioja in the United States, Txakoli wines offer crisp flavors and recommends visiting Zarautz (nine miles from San Sebas- bright acidity that pair well with local tián) for its beautiful beach and wonderful restaurants. cod, shrimp and tuna. Txakoli is made Among her favorites is Kirkilla-Enea Jatetxea. The tra- predominantly from Hondarrabi Zuri ditional décor contrasts the inventive cuisine prepared in grapes, which grow on vines kissed the open kitchen. Tasting menus are accompanied by wine by sea spray, adding a soft touch of and from the extensive list. salinity to many expressions. Since portions of Rioja Alavesa cross into Basque Country, look for bottles of Rioja Crianza, Reserva and Gran WHEN TO GO Fabulista. It has a wine press Reserva to enjoy alongside Iberian The best times to visit are spring from 1903 and ancient stone vats pork or chuleton de buey (ox steak). and fall, before and after the where grapes were once crushed Nearby Navarra is known for its crush of summer tourist season. by foot. Garnacha wines, so seek out fruit- forward reds and refreshing rosés WHERE TO TASTE made from this native Spanish grape. In San Sebastián, stop by Lu- The region’s complex Basque kas Gourmet Benta-Berri. The history has yielded a Country wine shop also has a bar and fi ercely independent spirit restaurant on premise, and it’s a preserved in Basque wine terrii c place to taste (and load up and cuisine. on) new releases of Txakoli, the region’s zesty white wine. The Basque Country is also fa- mous for rustic, lively cider hous- es (or sagardotegi). Cider season kicks of in mid-January and runs until April or May, but Sidrería Petritegi, located about 15 min- utes from San Sebastián, is open SPAIN year-round. It of ers tours of its apple orchard, as well as hearty cuisine and cider tastings. Venture to the walled village of Laguardia for a traditional wine- tasting experience at Bodega El

WINEMAG.COM | 47