University of Nevada, Reno Through the Language of Food: Creating
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University of Nevada, Reno Through the Language of Food: Creating Linguistic and Cultural Value through Basque (Euskara) Semiotics to Market Local Gastronomic Products A dissertation submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Basque Studies by Kerri Lesh Dr. Sandra Ott and Dr. Jenanne Ferguson/Dissertation Advisor May, 2019 Copyright by Kerri N. Lesh 2019 All Rights Reserved THE GRADUATE SCHOOL We recommend that the dissertation prepared under our supervision by Kerri Lesh Entitled Through the Language of Food: Creating Linguistic and Cultural Value through Basque (Euskara) Semiotics to Market Local Gastronomic Products be accepted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Sandra Ott, PhD, Co-Advisor Jenanne Ferguson, PhD, Co-advisor Joseba Zulaika, PhD, Committee Member Agurtzane Elordui Urkiza, PhD, Committee Member Begoña Echeverria, Committee Member Ian Clayton, PhD, Graduate School Representative David W. Zeh, Ph.D., Dean, Graduate School May 2019 i Abstract Basque gastronomy has become world-renowned over the last few decades, drawing locals and tourists alike to savor regional products, congregate over food and drink in neighborhood bars, and indulge in six-course meals in Michelin star establishments. This dissertation uses the concept of a functional pairing, uztartzea or maridaje (“pairing” respectively in Basque and Castilian), by analyzing the theoretical and practical ways in which Basque linguistic and cultural practices are being used in the promotion of gastronomic products, how such use of material goods affects the value of this minoritized language, and how these practices and material goods contribute to cultural maintenance and efforts related to language revitalization or normalization. 1 The theoretical framework for this work has informed in-depth considerations of core-periphery dynamics, shedding light on tensions regarding language commodification, the effects of tourism, concepts of authenticity, and language materiality. Various intersectional categories are interwoven throughout the chapters as a way to help observe practices and opinions that contribute to issues related to language, power, and identity in relation to Basque culture. This dissertation makes a new contribution to the scholarship on linguistic commodification and materiality by looking closely at the Basque case, and specifically analyzes the use of Euskara. Until now, there is no known ethnographic study of this type that examines the relationship between Basque language and food with such breadth and depth. 1 While I use “language revitalization” in reference to halting or reversing the decline of language, I also use “language normalization” as a translation from “normalización lingüistica,” which derives from the laws approved in Spanish Basque Country Article 3 of the Constitution (Ley 10/1982), that seek to “normalize” euskara (Ley 10/1982). The phrase itself is mentioned by Lluís Aracil (1965) in Conflit Linguistique et Normalisation Linguistique Dans L’Europe Nouvelle. ii The first chapter will provide a brief history of the Basque culture and language. Within this chapter, a description of the setting will contextualize my research by describing aspects of the current political, economic, linguistic, and social climate that influence the use of the Basque language and other semiotics can be seen in local, national, and international markets. The second chapter will lay a foundation for this dissertation by introducing various dimensions of the Basque gastronomic society. It will provide a timeline of the milestones and development of present-day Basque gastronomy, as well as reference the social spaces where food and drink play an integral role in Basque culture. Chapters 3 through 7 will each discuss the use of Basque in relation to a particular beverage to demonstrate the ways in which each drink indexes Basque culture through semiotics. I will summarize the dissertation’s main themes and address additional products, regions, and approaches that can be analyzed in future research to assess how the value is created for the products as well as the Basque language and culture. iii Dedication I dedicate this work to my mother Lois Jean Lesh and my father Gregg Lesh, for all your support. iv Acknowledgments This project embodies a dream of mine that I have had for over a decade. With so much time having been spent working towards this goal there are many people to whom I owe gratitude and wish to acknowledge. This project has given meaning and a sense of accomplishment and fulfillment to my life, providing me with some of the best memories that I will always hold dear to my heart. I would like to extend my deepest gratitude to the people of the Basque Country—those still living there, and those that have found a home in other parts of the world. You have shared your lives, homes, time, cars, as well as plenty of food and drink with me to satisfy my thirst for knowledge as well as for Txakolina. A special thank you goes out to Leire, Egoitz, Beñat, Xabi, and Andrea. Andrea, thank you for introducing me into Aldamar; I will forever remember you and everyone there as part of my first home in the Basque Country. To Mikel and Fatima, for sharing your home, lives, and knowledge with me. Your patience with my Euskara is unending, and I cannot thank you both enough for your continued support and for having me in your home. To Pilar and Iñaki, you both provided so much love and support from day one. I am forever thankful for your hospitality, knowledge of geology, and support in my work, transportation, and friendship-muxu handi bat ! To the interviewees that I have met along the way that have become friends, introducing me to Basque culture from various perspectives—Bittor, Gorka, Andrea, José Ramon, Roberto and Esther, and many others with whom I keep in contact—I am lucky to have deepened my relationships with you all along the way. I would never have been able to conduct my interviews without the months of education at v Maizpide in Lazkao. “ Eskerrik Asko” to all the teachers and friends I made while living there. I would like to give a special thanks to the co-chairs of my committee, Dr. Sandra Ott for meeting with me during my first visit to UNR back in 2014, giving me opportunities to teach, and for guiding me throughout this whole process by keeping me on track, and to Dr. Jenanne Ferguson who encouraged me endlessly by providing me with professional opportunities, personal advice, and unending support when I doubted the validity of my work. I would like to thank the rest of my committee members, Joseba Zulaika, Begoña Echeverria, Agurtzane Elordui, and Ian Clayton—you all provided support when needed, each sharing your own advice and encouragement along the way. Xabier Irujo, I thank you for helping me combine my passions and interests. I would not have been able to start my research on time had it not been for Margaret Bullen. Thank you, Maggie, for helping me come over to the Basque Country, and for welcoming me in and giving me a place at the University of the Basque Country in Donosti. Although not on my committee, a special thanks to Cameron Watson, who from day one was not only supportive, but excited about my work. You were my earliest set of eyes and ears in the Basque Country, introduced me to many helpful contacts during my research, and provided helpful material and resources before, during, and after my fieldwork. Your mentorship, friendship, advice on learning Euskara , and respect for both my abilities and ineptitudes never ceases. I cannot begin to enumerate the things you have done in support of this journey. Words and one paragraph alone cannot express my gratitude. vi There are many people who contributed to the personal and academic foundation that encouraged me throughout various points in my academic career, which started long before my entry into the Center for Basque Studies. I would like to thank Anita Herzfeld who first inspired me to study minoritized languages, sparking an interest for me in my undergraduate years at the University of Kansas. I so enjoyed spending time with you and keeping in touch over the last twenty years. While at the University of Texas, Austin, I had the pleasure of knowing Dr. Ian Hancock who supported me in applying to the Basque Studies program. I would not have been able to research this topic without the help of friends who supported me in so many ways. I raise my glass to Matt Camp, Leslie, and everyone from Max’s Wine Dive who provided a supportive environment to learn about wine, and for helping me get through some of the more difficult moments in life. To my Pili, Francisco, and Monica who accompanied me on one my favorite adventures to find el Tesoro de Chacoli , it was you all, too, who fueled my obsession with for this drink. I would not have been able to develop myself professionally had it not been for the financial support provided to me in the way of grants and stipends, some of which came from the Center for Basque studies and the Graduate Student Association at UNR. I completed the last portion of my program with the generous help from the Bilinski Foundation who awarded me a fellowship that supported me during my last year of writing. To my family and friends that continually remind me that there is more to life than work. Your support, distractions, and visits reenergized me throughout these four year. To my dad, who encouraged me to be adventurous, independent, and different, vii whether it was through intellectual curiosity, or through our own adventures as travel buddies, thank you.