ADAM’S CONSTANT THREE’S COMPANY CHANGE PUIG IS AIMING TO WORLD THE SHIFTING SOURCING LANDSCAPE, BECOME THE THIRD- ADAM LEVINE OF MAROON 5 INCLUDING WHICH COUNTRIES TO USE LARGEST PRESTIGE IS ADDING WOMEN’S WEAR FOR PRODUCTION, WAS A KEY TOPIC BEAUTY FIRM IN THE TO HIS COLLECTION FOR KMART. AT PRIME SOURCE. PAGE 9 WORLD. PAGE 6 PAGE 3

SPINNING OFF FROM SEARS Lands’ End Shares Fall 6.7% on Debut

By DAVID MOIN and VICKI M. YOUNG

INVESTORS WEREN’T too thrilled on Monday with the shares of either Lands’ End or its former parent, Sears Holdings Corp. Shares of each company saw their prices decline after Lands’ End offi cially became a public company TUESDAY, APRIL 8, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY again. The spin-off from Sears was completed on WWD Friday and Lands’ End now trades on the Nasdaq under the symbol “LE.” Prior to the spin-off, Sears received a dividend of $500 million from the cata- logue fi rm. Lands’ End will continue to pay Sears rent for the shops-in-shop space it occupies in 250 Sears’ stores. Lands’ End saw its stock price fall 6.7 percent to close at $29.55, from Friday’s close of $31.67. Shares of the company began preliminary trading on the Nasdaq on March 20 under the symbol “LEDMV” on a “when-issued” basis. That allows underwriters to book orders for purchases of a portion of any securities that are authorized but not yet issued. The shares had been down as much as 10 percent in intraday trading during a day when the overall market was down. Edgar Huber, president and chief executive offi cer of the 50-year-old brand, rang the closing bell at the end of Monday’s trading session and said, “This is a very historic moment for Lands’ End. Well Red “We worked very hard to get this accomplished. You have to assure that once becoming vertically sep- Dramatic while still approachable, red is having a major arated and independent, that the operations continue evening moment. Taking their cue from the red carpet to operate effi ciently, from a systems, logistics and — celebs love red — designers are working the color sourcing point of view and from a fi nancial decision- making point of view,” he said. in numerous sensual shapes. Here, Prabal Gurung’s Huber, who joined Lands’ End in August 2011 after silk chiffon gown. For more, see pages 4 and 5. serving as executive vice president of global business development for Liz Claiborne Inc., president and ceo of Juicy Couture, and earlier holding senior posts at L’Oréal, elaborated on how Lands’ End potentially benefi ts by becoming independent from Sears. SEE PAGE 3 Sandro and Maje Parent Names Lalonde as CEO By MILES SOCHA

PARIS — Strengthening management ranks for its glob- al expansion drive, the holding company for the Sandro, Maje and Claudie Pierlot chains has tapped Daniel Lalonde as chief executive officer, WWD has learned. An offi cial announcement is expected today. Most recently president of Ralph Lauren International and a longtime executive at LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, Lalonde joins Paris-based SMCP Group as its new owner seeks to maximize growth in the hot contemporary apparel zone. Kohlberg Kravis Roberts & Co. bought a 65 percent stake in SMCP last June, signaling heightened inves- tor interest in the accessible luxury segment. Previously, L Capital, the private equity arm of LVMH, and Florac, an investment fund owned by the Louis-Dreyfus family, controlled SMCP as its retail banners made their fi rst steps into America and Asia. Lalonde is expected to start in May and work alongside the four original principals: Evelyne Chétrite and Judith Milgrom, founders and artistic directors of Sandro and Maje, respectively, as well as Frédéric Biousse and Elie Kouby, managers who joined the company in 2007 and who are to remain members of the executive team and become advisers to Lalonde. He arrives at a company that multiplied in size sevenfold over the past six years, and continues to post strong gains in a buoyant market for accessible fashions. SMCP reported a 20.6 percent rise in 2013 revenues to 422.1 million euros, or $578.4 million PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN MODEL: HANNAH/ELITE; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY CHEYENNE TIMPERIO FOR ARTMIX BEAUTY USING OBSESSIVE COMPULSIVE COSMETICS; FASHION ASSISTANT: MILTON DIXON MILTON USING OBSESSIVE ASSISTANT: BEAUTY COMPULSIVE COSMETICS; CHEYENNEFASHION TIMPERIO FOR ARTMIX MODEL: HANNAH/ELITE; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY SEE PAGE 6 2 WWD TUESDAY, APRIL 8, 2014 WWD.COM Loehmann’s Comes Back Online THE BRIEFING BOX Esopus fund, said, “This is a longer-term investment IN TODAY’S WWD By VICKI M. YOUNG for us. We’re looking to build the Loehmann’s brand over time. Esopus has a history of being a long-term LOEHMANN’S HAS BEEN resurrected from the investor in many of the purchases that we have made.” retail graveyard. Koppelman was hired by Esopus to work on The Loehmann’s nameplate will go live again the branding and revitalization of the Loehmann’s Sophie Touchet online, with a new Web site slated to be up and run- nameplate. is the subject of ning in early May, according to Charles Koppelman, While many of the details of the new site are still “Model Call” on founder of brand development and advisory firm under wraps, Koppelman, a marketing and brand- WWD.com. CAK Entertainment Inc. ing expert, plans to take advantage of both social The online store will operate under a new Web ad- and digital media. He also has experience in the IP dress that will be unveiled next month, but will remain realm, having formed CAK Universal Credit Corp. focused on “highly discounted brands,” Koppelman said. in 1998 using IP assets as a form of financing known After 93 years as a fashion presence in the off- as asset-backed securitizations. CAK’s work on the MANAGEMENT price channel focused on designer apparel and ac- securitization of the Bill Blass trademarks was cessories, the retail chain filed a voluntary Chapter considered the fashion industry’s first investment- SOCIETY

11 petition for bankruptcy court protection in grade asset-backed issue. THE

December. After a fast-tracked bankruptcy tour — According to Koppelman, the site will feature OF its third time in bankruptcy proceedings, with the the same brands as before, but will also have a com- first in 1999 and the second in 2010 — the retailer ponent that skews towards the Millennial consum- liquidated in February. er, taking advantage of the emerging forms of media COURTESY The Loehmann’s nameplate and related intellectual as the primary outreach for that market. PHOTO property assets, including customer lists, were acquired “Research tells us the younger customer shops at a bankruptcy court auction by Esopus Creek Value online. They want to have a dialogue with brands Series Fund L P, a hedge fund. According to Manhattan about what they want to see and what brands they SMCP Group, the holding company for the Sandro, Maje and bankruptcy court records, the IP assets were acquired want.…We are going to talk to them, helping with Claudie Pierlot chains, has tapped Daniel Lalonde as chief for $750,000 and the customer lists for $100,000. the product and brand selection. They will tell PAGE 1 Andrew L. Sole, managing member of Esopus us what they want and help us with our buying,” executive officer. Creek Advisors LLC, the investment adviser to the Koppelman said. Lands’ End and Sears Holdings Corp. saw their stock price decline Monday after the former officially became a public company again. PAGE 1

Jones Shareholders OK Sycamore Merger Adam Levine is launching a women’s collection in time for at Jones, would remain at Jones. The golden para- summer to add to his namesake men’s wear at Kmart. PAGE 3 By LISA LOCKWOOD chute would cover Card; Dickson; John McClain, chief financial officer; Ira M. Dansky, executive vice A preview of this week’s bridal market in New York, where Vera NEW YORK — At a special meeting Monday, share- president, and general counsel and secretary, and Wang will present a short film instead of a fashion show and holders of The Jones Group Inc. overwhelmingly Christopher Cade, executive vice president and other designers have created a more efficient schedule. PAGE 7 approved the merger agreement with Sycamore chief accounting officer and controller. Partners and golden parachute compensation pay- As of March 5, Card and Dickson beneficially Labor activists say Bangladesh is still not adequately able to several executive officers. owned 1,859,724 shares collectively, representing addressing the needs of the 4.2 million workers who help fuel Sycamore offered to acquire Jones for $15 a share in 2.4 percent of the company’s outstanding shares the $23.5 billion apparel industry. PAGE 8 cash, or about $2.2 billion, on Dec. 19. The equity por- and agreed to vote their shares in favor of the deal. tion of the transaction is about $1.2 billion, with the re- Sources indicate that once the transaction closes, Sourcing executives at the Prime Source Forum said traditional maining $1 billion coming from the assumption of debt. Jones’ business will be carved into four independent business models, manufacturing bases and markets are evolving, Sources indicated that the deal could close as entities: Stuart Weitzman, Kurt Geiger, Jones Apparel PAGE 9 soon as today. and the rest of the company — the legacy footwear and retailers and suppliers need to keep up. Wesley R. Card, chief executive officer of Jones, and denim businesses — to be renamed Nine West presided over the five-minute meeting Monday, which Holdings Inc. Sources said Nine West, which will be Interstoff Asia Essential featured a fresh selection of was attended by about 35 people at the law offices of saddled with a heavy debt load going forward, is the innovative fabrics on display. PAGE 9 Cravath, Swaine & Moore LLP. After the vote, Card said operation that Sycamore plans to keep. The other en- he wanted to recognize and thank the board, Jones’ cus- tities, with their new independent structures, will be “Enchanted Garden” was the theme of this year’s Save Venice tomers and business partners, and the Jones Group as- easier to be sold off one by one. Geiger and Weitzman masquerade ball at The Pierre in Manhattan Friday. PAGE 10 sociates around the globe “whose constant dedication are viewed as Jones’ most promising units. As re- and talent allowed us to complete the transaction.” ported, Jones dropped the Rachel Roy designer col- FiveT Capital Holding AG has purchased an additional 2 Based on a preliminary vote assessment, about lection (while retaining Rachel Rachel Roy), and last million shares of American Apparel Inc., boosting its stake to 22 79.1 percent of the Jones Group total outstanding month sold the intellectual property rights of Brian million shares or 12.7 percent of those outstanding. PAGE 11 shares as of the March 5 record date for the special Atwood to Steven Madden Ltd. meeting were represented, and about 98.8 percent Separately, Sycamore has already closed on $2 bil- Glamour magazine is throwing its hat into the crowded beauty were voted in favor of the merger agreement. lion in fund-raising for its second fund. By the time the Webosphere with its own digital site called Lipstick. PAGE 11 Card said the deal would close “shortly,” and raise closes in a few weeks, it is expected that the pri- declined comment on whether he and Richard vate equity firm will have raised a total of $2.5 billion. Dickson, president and ceo of branded businesses — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM V.M.Y. ON WWD.COM

MODEL CALL: Sophie Touchet, repped by The Society, Burch Joins President’s Entrepreneur Group just finished a whirlwind debut season wherein she walked a whopping 43 shows — including Chanel, Lanvin and TORY BURCH is adding business ambassador to several of the executives, including Burch, who hud- Alexander McQueen. For more, see WWD.com. her résumé. dled under an umbrella and did not give remarks. Burch has joined the President’s Ambassadors “At this time, this is not about financial commit- for Global Entrepreneurship, or PAGE, an initiative ments,” Pritzker said, responding to a reporter’s to promote and champion entrepreneurship and question. “This is about a commitment of time and FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA charged with increasing the number of successful ideas and sharing of their stories and their processes @ WWD.com/social small businesses in the U.S. and around the world. and their wisdom. [It’s] about how one goes from an PAGE’s first meeting took place Monday in idea to a company and also [offering] their advice, TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. Washington and was chaired by U.S. frankly not just for other entrepreneurs WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. Secretary of Commerce Penny Pritzker. Tor y but also for other governments.” COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Burch, designer and the founder of Rich Barton, cofounder and execu- VOLUME 207, NO. 70. TUESDAY, APRIL 8, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Burch Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and the Tory Burch Foundation, said, “In an tive chairman of real estate Internet two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine increasingly global society, entrepreneur- company Zillow, as well as founder of Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, ship is a key to creating jobs and strength- online travel company Expedia Inc., Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, ening the world economy. PAGE is also a said the new initiative will “help export NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West great platform from which to build on our American-style start-up capitalism to Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 6356, foundation’s continuing effort to support the rest of the world. Harlan, IA 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTION, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593, call 866-401-7801, or email customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfillment.com. the economic empowerment of women “It turns out there will be three Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address entrepreneurs and their families.” NOA GRIFFEL billion people over the next 30 years changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. PAGE provides a platform for suc- that enter the middle class around the If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with

cessful entrepreneurs to inspire and PHOTO BY world and they need jobs,” Barton said. your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mentor young entrepreneurs. Plans for “They are looking to us an example of mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request the group were first announced at the 2013 Global what it’s like to create a healthy start-up economy. to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. For reuse Entrepreneurship Summit in Malaysia. It also turns out freedom and self-actualization permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. At a press stakeout held in the pouring rain on and self-determination go hand in hand with the Occasionally we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we the West Wing lawn of the White House after the creation of an entrepreneurial, start-up commu- believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593 or call 866-401-7801. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR committee’s inaugural meeting, Pritzker said the nity. So it’s exciting to me that we can increase DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED company executives are donating their time and freedom in the world and empowerment through TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, sharing their stories, but are not making financial the work we do here.” UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND commitments to the initiative. She was joined by — ARNOLD J. KARR AND KRISTI ELLIS OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

WWD TUESDAY, APRIL 8, 2014 3 WWD.COM

Lands’ End a Public Company Again {Continued from page one} “We can optimize better our capital structure, attract’’ talent and allocate in- vestments in a more focused manner,” he said. “This also allows us to acceler- ate our international development and growth, and it allows us to use the cash flow we generate to invest in Lands’ End. We just become more focused.” A new board, meeting Tuesday, in- cludes Huber, Elizabeth Darst Leykum, Josephine Linden, Jignesh M. Patel, Tracy Gardner and Jonah Staw. Edward S. Lampert, the chairman and ceo of Sears, This also allows us to accelerate our international development and growth, and it allows us to use the cash flow we generate to invest in Lands’ End. GEORGE CHINSEE — EDGAR HUBER, LANDS’ END The Lands’ End team rang the closing bell Monday. PHOTO BY is the largest Lands’ End shareholder, firm prior to the Sears acquisition, were was spun off. Orchard Hardware Stores with about 48.4 percent of the stock. $1.57 billion. was spun off in December 2011. Less In the year ended Jan. 31, 2013, Lands’ Lands’ End remains highly focused on than two years later, Orchard filed for End’s sales slid 1.5 percent to $1.56 bil- phone and online orders, which account- bankruptcy court protection in June. $29.55 lion from $1.59 billion in 2012, while net ed for 82 percent of sales in 2012. Sales In addition, some on Wall Street felt income grew 58 percent to $79 million inside Sears stores make up 16 percent that Lands’ End was the one component CLOSING PRICE OF LANDS’ END from $50 million. of revenues. of Sears that was doing reasonably well. Lands’ End was a public’’ company Shares of Sears closed down 6.4 per- With the spin-off, some of them are won- SHARES ON MONDAY. until it was acquired by Sears, Roebuck cent to $38.10 in Nasdaq trading. dering what’s left of Sears that has value & Co. in 2002 for $1.9 billion. That was With the latest spin-off, Sears other than some real estate holdings prior to the merger with Kmart Corp., Holdings supposedly can continue focus- still owned under the Sears umbrella. and DieHard — were transferred by after which the merged entity became ing on its core Sears operation. Its past That’s because other assets, such as the Lampert to a bankruptcy-remote entity Sears Holdings Corp. Sales in 2001, spin-offs haven’t always boded well for intellectual property assets for Sears’ that now charges the company royalties Lands’ End’s last year as a publicly held shareholders or even the company that iconic brands — Kenmore, Craftsman to license the brands.

Adam Levine Adds Women’s to Kmart Line Moda Operandi

jeans,” Levine added. “I al- Looks from By MARC KARIMZADEH ways think a woman looks the Adam Levine’s Taps Three Execs best when she doesn’t overdo new women’s NEW YORK — Adam Levine’s it. I wanted to have pieces in line for Kmart. NEW YORK — Moda Operandi is adding female fans can now also wear this collection that any woman three merchandising executives to the team. a piece of his clothing. can wear effortlessly and still Mary Chiam was named vice president of The lead vocalist of look great.” merchandising. Most recently, she was glob- Maroon 5, coach on NBC’s Levine is doing more than al head of merchandising for Net-a-porter “The Voice,” and People’s just design. As part of the Group’s The Outnet. She joined Net-a- Sexiest Man Alive for 2013, is collection, members of Shop porter.com in 2008 as senior merchandiser, launching a women’s collec- Your Way, Kmart’s loyalty pro- and before, worked at Aritzia. tion in time for summer to add gram, can access exclusive Elizabeth Morgan was appointed Moda to his namesake men’s wear content, and the singer will Operandi’s general merchandise manager at Kmart. The first season, host “Style Chats” that allow of boutique. Morgan was previously Gucci’s launching Thursday, captures customers and fans to ask him buying manager of e-commerce and, prior a casual aesthetic that mirrors questions about the line and to that, worked at Brooks Brothers and Saks Levine’s own style. Among the his personal style. Fifth Avenue. colorful and printed looks are The collection will be dis- Amalia Keramitsis was named the site’s kimono tops adorned with flo- tributed to 500 Kmart stores director of fine jewelry and watches. She rals, twill shorts, a lace blouse across the nation, and is also was most recently vice president and fash- and a languid Aztec pattern available at shopyourway.com. ion and accessories market director of dress. Denim rounds out the “His effortless, cool ap- Mediabend Capital and, before that, served assortment. proach to dressing is perfect as an accessories editor at Vogue. “My vision for the wom- for expanding his brand uni- “The addition of industry experts with en’s line was to create a col- verse into women’s wear,” core competencies in e-commerce, design- lection that I would like to noted Bernt Ullmann, presi- er fashion and fine jewelry underscores see a woman wear,” Levine dent of Sears Holdings Corp.’s our growth strategy of continually elevat- said. “I love a free spirit so Shop Your Way Brands. “Now ing the online shopping experience,” said I wanted the clothes to have all his female fans can be part Moda Operandi chief executive officer a relaxed and casual side to of the lifestyle.” Deborah Nicodemus. “The multibrand mer- them. It’s effortless and clas- That would include Behati chandising and editorial perspectives that sic. And in my opinion, clas- Prinsloo, the Victoria’s Secret Mary, Elizabeth and Amalia add to Moda sic is never boring.” model and Levine’s fiancée, Operandi provides the experience to sup- The apparel is priced from though the singer has a spe- port the next phase of growth into key cat- $12.99 to $29.99, with acces- cific look for her in mind. “She egories.” sories from $6.99 to $29.99. always looks great in a T-shirt Morgan and Keramitsis report directly “I love a girl who can rock and jeans,” he said. “So I to Chiam. a man’s shirt with a pair of would go with that.” —M.K. 4 WWD TUESDAY, APRIL 8, 2014

We l l Red

A MAINSTAY FOR THE CELEBRITY SET, RED IS A REAL-WORLD GO-TO FOR FALL. DESIGNERS CHOSE THE COLOR FOR GOWNS THAT ARE AS GLAMOROUS AS THEY ARE BRIGHT.

Alexandra Vidal’s silk georgette dress. Badgley Mischka cuff.

PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN WWD TUESDAY, APRIL 8, 2014 5 WWD.COM RED ON RED The color is hot, powerful and a celebrity favorite. Here, leading ladies in red from the 2014 awards season.

Jennifer Lawrence in Dior Haute Romona Keveza’s Couture at silk crepe dress. the Oscars. Carolina Herrera’s appliquéd silk faille ballgown. Badgley Mischka cuff.

Lupita Nyong’o in Ralph Lauren at the Golden Globes.

Amy Adams in Valentino at the Golden Honor’s Globes. silk voile chiffon gown. Vintage Chanel necklace, worn as belt. FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE WWD.com/ fashion-news. Zac Posen’s viscose and elastane gown. SARDELLA AND DONATO TYLER BOYE PHOTOS BY 6 WWD TUESDAY, APRIL 8, 2014 Puig Plots Leap in Growth OBITUARY sonable one, 5 percent, but when we translate Peaches Geldof, 25 By JENNIFER WEIL our sales into euros, the strength of the euro compared to the dollar and other emerging- A familiar face at fashion shows in BARCELONA — Puig has 2020 vision. market currencies had a significant impact. By NINA JONES London and New York, Geldof got her As the Spanish fragrance and fashion And that has continued this year.” start in fashion by writing for Elle maga- group launched its centenary celebrations Still, Puig remains optimistic — not PEACHES GELDOF, the model, writ- zine while just a teenager. She reportedly here Monday, it reviewed 2013 results and least about emerging markets. er and television presenter daughter went on to contribute to The Telegraph outlined future goals — including the aim “Our exposure to the emerging markets of Bob Geldof and his late wife Paula and The Guardian, and to such TV shows to become the world’s third-ranked pres- is among the highest in our industry and in Yates, has died at the age of 25. as “OMG With Peaches Geldof.” tige fragrance player by 2020. spite of the impact that it has had during Police in Kent, an area just outside She modeled lingerie for a time, “Puig will be more sustainable; it will the past few months...we believe that me- London, said in a statement Monday: first with Agent Provocateur and later be greener,” said Marc Puig, the compa- dium to long term these growth dynamics “Kent Police were called at 1.35 p.m. with Miss Ultimo. Neither company re- ny’s chairman and chief executive officer, on April 7, 2014, to an address near turned requests for comment at press addressing journalists in the firm’s new Wrotham following a report of concern time. In 2008, she was among the VIPs headquarters, the Puig Tower. The meet- Marc Puig for the welfare of a woman. A woman featured in a David LaChapelle ex- ing marked the first time Puig has held a aged 25 was pronounced dead by South hibition in Paris. That same year she conference to discuss its numbers. East Coast ambulance service. At this modeled on the runway for PPQ during “We have designed a 2020 plan that is stage the death is being treated as an London Fashion Week. quite ambitious — zero waste, zero gases, unexplained and sudden death. Officers Over the years, the spirited blonde reuse of water,” he continued, adding Puig are working to establish the circum- turned up at such runway shows as will be more “socially minded,” as well. stances around the death.” Preen, Temperley, Rebecca Minkoff, “We believe that companies cannot be As of Monday night, police officials Anna Sui, Diesel, Charlotte Ronson, blind to the duty to give back to society were treating the situation as “a non- Lacoste, Betsey Johnson, Alice + Olivia part of what society gives them,” said Puig, suspicious, but unexplained sudden and Milly by Michelle Smith, among oth- explaining the family — which owns the death.” The local coro- ers. In December, she had firm — will soon make a significant contri- ner has been informed Peaches her young sons in tow at bution to the Puig foundation to help back and a postmortem is Geldof in the opening of a Dolce & a number of employee social initiatives. expected to take place 2014. Gabbana children’s shop. “Puig’s future will be an ambitious one, JOEL HOLLAND in the next few days. In September 2012, too,” he continued. “We are the sixth world Peaches Geldof, Geldof wore three dif-

player in the selective fragrance industry. PHOTO BY who was married to ferent Alberta Ferretti We have an 8.6 percent market share com- musician Thomas gowns during the course pared to the 3.2 percent we had in 2004. for demographic reasons and for economic Cohen, had two sons: of her wedding to Cohen In 2020, we want to have 12 percent world growth reasons will keep on being [posi- Astala, almost two, and at her father’s country market share [which]…would actually posi- tive],” he said. Phaedra, who turns estate, Davington Priory.

tion us among the top-three world players.” Puig noted an encouraging trend in one later this month. STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE True to her individualis- Puig also outlined the firm’s long-term Spain, which for years had been hard hit Bob Geldof and tic, offbeat style, Geldof aspiration: to be a group “that owns luxury by the recession and where the company his family said in a used her golden retriev- labels — luxury brands recognized as such generated 40 percent of its sales in 2013. statement Monday: PHOTO BY er puppy as a ring bearer worldwide while keeping our hybrid model “At least the sloping down has stopped, “Peaches has died. We are beyond pain. (dressed for the occasion with a floral composed of our own brands and licensed and now we expect a turnaround,” he said. She was the wildest, funniest, cleverest, garland). She also opted for a blue and brands in the world of perfume making. He described the firm’s overall financial wittiest and the most bonkers of all of us. cream-colored wedding cake embel- That’s our bet, that’s our commitment.” position as “solid.” Writing ‘was’ destroys me afresh. What a lished with edible pig characters. During the press conference, Puig “It has no debt, and it has a cash posi- beautiful child. How is this possible that Geldof ’s first marriage to musician — parent of the Carolina Herrera, Nina tion that is quite comfortable,” he said. we will not see her again? How is that Max Drummey ended in divorce. Ricci, Paco Rabanne and Jean Paul Following the press conference, nu- bearable? We loved her and will cherish While Geldof had often been char- Gaultier houses and licensee of fragrance merous dignitaries visited the Rafael her forever. How sad that sentence is.” acterized as rebellious by the British labels such as Prada, Valentino and Moneo-designed Puig Tower, which is 328 The statement added: “Tom and press in the past, in recent years Comme des Garçons — said the company’s feet high, covers 23 floors and has LEED her sons Astala and Phaedra will al- she’d become better known for a more net income rose 2 percent in 2013 to 176 Gold certification for its energy and envi- ways belong in our family, fractured so homely existence, posting frequently million euros, or $233.8 million at average ronmental design. The company’s 100th often, but never broken.” on Twitter and Instagram about her exchange for the period. anniversary celebrations are set to con- Cohen said in a separate statement young family. Her last tweet, posted Revenues at Puig advanced 1 percent to tinue with events scheduled through- from him and the couple’s sons: “My Sunday, was a picture of her as a child 1.5 billion euros, or $1.99 billion. On a like- out this year, including the presentation beloved wife Peaches was adored being held by Yates, who died follow- for-like basis, sales were up 5 percent. of a Harvard University case study on by myself and her two sons, Astala ing an accidental drug overdose in “[Last] year was a bit more complicated Puig, a retrospective tome published by and Phaedra, and I shall bring them 2000, captioned: “Me and my mum.” than we expected,” said Puig. “Our growth Assouline and a new corporate Web site up with their mother in their hearts — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM rate at a constant exchange rate was a rea- due to go live on Tuesday evening. every day. We shall love her forever.” ROSEMARY FEITELBERG

UNITED STATES BANKRUPTCY COURT FOR THE DISTRICT OF NEW JERSEY In re: Chapter 11 1 Lalonde Tapped to Lead SMCP ASHLEY STEWART HOLDINGS, INC., et al., Case No. 14-14383 (MBK) Debtors. (Jointly Administered) NOTICE OF PUBLIC AUCTION AND SALE HEARING {Continued from page one} Lalonde is SMCP’s latest hire PLEASE TAKE NOTICE that the above-captioned debtors and debtors-in-possession (collectively, the “Debtors” or “Ashley Stewart”) fled a motion on March 28, 2014 [Docket No. 148] (the “Sale Motion”) with the United States at average exchange, as reported. as it gears up for a growth phase. Bankruptcy Court for the District of New Jersey (the “Bankruptcy Court”) seeking (I) entry of an order (a) establishing “Growth prospects are very Last March, longtime bidding procedures including, without limitation, break-up fee provisions and other bid protections, (b) approving form of asset purchase agreement, (c) approving form and manner of notice of sale and treatment of executory contracts exciting in Europe and North Giorgio Armani executive Fabio and unexpired leases, and (d) scheduling sale hearing date to consider fnal approval of sale and treatment of executory America,” said Lalonde, who Mancone joined SMCP as head of contracts and unexpired leases; (II) entry of an order approving (a) the sale, free and clear of liens, claims, interests, and encumbrances, and (b) treatment of executory contracts and unexpired leases; and (III) granting related relief. also cited “very encouraging re- global branding and business de- PLEASE TAKE FURTHER NOTICE that on April 3, 2014, the Bankruptcy Court entered an order (the “Bidding Procedures sults” in Asia. velopment strategies, a role that Order”) [Docket No. 192] approving, among other things, the Bidding Procedures2 described in the Sale Motion and setting key dates and times relating to the sale of the Assets. As set forth in the Bidding Procedures, the sale of the Assets He lauded the three fashion encompasses spearheading new is subject to competing offers from any prospective qualifed bidder. All interested potential bidders should carefully chains for having “dynamic and in- product categories, including ac- review the Bidding Procedures. To the extent that there are any inconsistencies between the Bidding Procedures and novative collections, a high-quality cessories, along with licensing the summary description of its terms and conditions contained in this Notice, the terms of the Bidding Procedures shall control. distribution network and very ca- and other growth avenues.

PLEASE TAKE FURTHER NOTICE that, pursuant to the terms of the Bidding Procedures Order, an auction (the pable and passionate teams.” ANTONOV PASHA In addition, Emmanuel “Auction”) to sell the Assets will be conducted at Curtis, Mallet-Prevost, Colt & Mosle LLP, 101 Park Avenue, New York, NY 10178, or at another location as may be timely disclosed by the Debtors to Qualifed Bidders (as defned in the Bidding Lalonde has extensive expe- Pradère was named vice presi- Procedures), on April 17, 2014, at 10:00 a.m. (prevailing Eastern Time). Only (1) parties and their advisors that have sub- rience in building global brands, Daniel Lalonde dent of finance and operations mitted a Qualifed Bid (as defned in the Bidding Procedures) by no later than April 15, 2014 at 5:00 p.m. (prevailing PHOTO BY Eastern Time), or (2) other parties specifed in the Bidding Procedures Order will be permitted to participate in and/or having spent half of his profes- last year. A 41-year-old gradu- make any statements on the record at the Auction. sional career in the U.S. and the Lauren as chairman and ceo. ate of HEC Business School PLEASE TAKE FURTHER NOTICE that a hearing will be held to confrm the results of the Auction and approve the sale transactions contemplated in the Sale Motion to the Prevailing Bidder(s) at the Auction (the “Sale Hearing”) before the other half in Europe. Before Ralph Lauren, in Paris, he had held posts at Honorable Michael B. Kaplan, United States Bankruptcy Court for the District of New Jersey, Martin Luther King, Jr. Federal According to SMCP’s found- Lalonde was president and ceo French retailers Saint-Gobain Building, 50 Walnut Street, Newark, NJ 07102, Courtroom 3A, on April 22, 2014 at 1:00 p.m. (prevailing Eastern Time), or at such time thereafter as counsel may be heard. The Sale Hearing may be adjourned from time to time without further ers, he is to accelerate the in- of Champagne house Moët & Group and Casino Group. notice to creditors or parties in interest other than by announcement of the adjournment in open court on the date sched- ternational development of the Chandon in Paris, and before that Chétrite established the uled for the Sale Hearing. Objections, if any, to any Sale (i) as contemplated by the Stalking Horse Purchase Agreement Sandro, Maje and Claudie Pierlot was president and ceo of Louis Sandro label in Paris’s garment must be fled and served by April 14, 2014 at 5:00 p.m. (prevailing Eastern Time) or (ii) as contemplated by a Prevailing Bidder other than the Stalking Horse Bidder must be fled by April 21, 2014 at 12:00 p.m. (prevailing Eastern Time). brands and spearhead the expan- Vuitton North America from district in 1984, and Milgrom, her PLEASE TAKE FURTHER NOTICE that this Notice is subject to the full terms and conditions of the Sale Motion, the sion of their product lines. 2006 to 2010. He joined LVHM’s sister, launched Maje in 1998. Bidding Procedures Order and the Bidding Procedures which shall control in the event of any confict, and the Debtors encourage parties in interest to review such documents in their entirety. A copy of the Sale Motion, the Bidding Procedures Maje recently planted its larg- watch and jewelry business in Sandro expanded into men’s and/or the Bidding Procedures Order may be obtained by request made to Debtors’ counsel, in writing or by e-mail, at est U.S. flagship in Los Angeles’ 2002 from Nestlé, where he was wear in 2007 under the aegis of Curtis, Mallet-Prevost, Colt & Mosle LLP, 101 Park Avenue, New York, NY 10178, Attn: Steven J. Reisman, Esq. (sreisman@ curtis.com) and Cindi M. Giglio, Esq. ([email protected]) or by visiting https://cases.primeclerk.com/ashleystewart. Beverly Center, part of a U.S. re- global chief operating officer of Chétrite’s son Ilan, and the Claudie Dated: April 3, 2014 tail rollout that will take the brand Nespresso SA, and president and Pierlot label was acquired in 2009. CURTIS, MALLET-PREVOST, COLT & MOSLE LLP, 101 Park Avenue, New York, NY 10178, Telephone: (212) 696-6000, to at least 15 units this year. ceo of Nespresso North America. SMCP ended 2013 with 714 Facsimile: (212) 697-1559 -and- COLE, SCHOTZ, MEISEL, FORMAN & LEONARD P.A, Court Plaza North, 25 Main Street, Hackensack, NJ 07601, Telephone: (201) 489-3000, Facsimile: (201) 489-1536, Counsel and Co-Counsel for the Debtors After a two-year stint at A Canadian national, Lalonde boutiques and concessions in and Debtors-in-Possession Ralph Lauren, Lalonde resigned holds an MBA from France’s 14 countries, including 101 loca- 1 The Debtors in these cases, along with the last four digits of each Debtor’s federal tax identifcation number, are: Ashley last December following an over- INSEAD business school, and tions in North America and 11 Stewart Holdings, Inc. (6790); New Ashley Stewart, Inc. (6655); AS IP Holdings, Inc. (6890); and NAS Gift LLC (5413). The Debtors’ corporate offces are located at 100 Metro Way, Secaucus, NJ 07094. haul of its leadership team that sits on its board. He has also held in Asia. Last year, it generated 2 Capitalized terms used but not defned herein shall have the same meanings ascribed to them in the Bidding saw the company create an office positions at Häagen-Dazs and the 35 percent of its revenues out- Procedures Order. of the chairman, led by Ralph consulting firm Deloitte & Touche. side of France. 5x7

WWD TuESDAY, APRIL 8, 2014 7 WWD.COM

A bridal look from Oleg bridal Cassini. Busy Market Week Schedule on Tap mentary online personal stylist By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG and a virtual showroom. Just as brides are increas- NEW YORK — This week’s brid- ingly more inclined to do their al market has yet to start, but homework online before they Vera Wang already has shaken even step foot in a store, bridal up what is a typically serene designers seem to have created scene by revealing her plan to a more efficient market week post a short film on Sunday in- schedule. Thursday morning, stead of staging a fashion show. Angel Sanchez will try something With the doors of her new new by presenting vignettes in- town house on the Upper East Beverly Hills boutique having spired by vintage covers of bridal Side. The company, which does only been open for a few days, magazines. That afternoon, in her 750 bridal shows on the road each the second floor’s bridal area Fifth Avenue showroom, Reem year, racked up retail sales of reflects how the designer has Acra will be among the first major more than $1 million in January stepped up her bridal business designers to show. Anne Bowen for one of its gowns, according to in advance of the company’s will also get an early start, though creative director Peggy Nestor. 25th anniversary next year. she has changed her venue to This season’s theme “cel- In the midst of wrapping up The Essex House’s Petit Salon. ebrates the polished, opulent, the designs for her new bridal Rather than have most of the celebratory bride who seeks per- collection, Wang shot her debut shows strewn over the weekend fection,” she said. One of the satin short film for bridal with di- Groupon has launched a Wedding Shop. as has been the case for years, a gowns that will be modeled later rector Gordon von Steiner on number of designers have opted this week has 50,000 pearls, and Monday. “This is a very new way than she would have by show- and Christina Wu. The shop also to show Friday. Oleg Cassini Inc., the show’s setting — a soothing to reach brides for me. I wanted ing the collection in her space includes lingerie, slips, engage- Oscar de la Renta, Marchesa, pastel-colored French drawing to take the time to bring my vi- overlooking Madison Square ment rings, shoes, accessories Monique Lhuillier, Rivini by room — should also relay the mes- sion to them,” she said. Park. “By producing this film and groom’s essentials. Rita Vinieris and Carolina sage for overachieving brides. Given the timing of this with sound and music and with Another twist on bridal e- Herrera will help get the week Alberta Ferretti will have month’s bridal market, it can movement, we’re really bring- commerce is being provided by off to a fast start. As part of their a few days of private appoint- be challenging to get preferred ing another level of inspiration Weddington Way, a new company ongoing plan to place a greater ments at the Aeffe USA town models who are often off doing to the clothes,” Wang said. started by Stanford University emphasis on their October bridal house on West 56th Street. commercial work after being in In a sign of the ever-price- M.B.A.-er Ilana Stern. Her site’s show, Mark Badgley and James While others, like Lela Europe for the ready-to-wear conscious hunt for a dress, extensive collection of brides- Mischka of Badgley Mischka will Rose, will wait until next week shows, Wang said. By posting the Groupon launched a Wedding maids dresses, accessories and sit out this season. to show, some of the weekend film online and playing it in her Shop Monday with gowns from ties for groomsmen is meant to Champagne corks will be shows will include Naeem bridal boutiques, the designer Nicole Miller, Dere Kiang, simplify shopping for the bridal flying before Friday morning’s Khan, Christos, Junko Yoshioka aims to attract thousands more Jacquelin Exclusive, DaVinci party with the help of a comple- runway show at the Oleg Cassini and Anna Maier.

w08a007a;6.indd 7 4/7/14 7:29 PM 04072014193045 8 WWD TUESDAY, APRIL 8, 2014 Despite Reforms, Bangladesh Workers Still Face Problems

Data from Bangladesh’s Solidarity whitewash the workers’ situation, she up workers. But that has already shifted By DENE-HERN CHEN Center, an international labor rights or- said. Women, making up 80 percent of and you don’t see that as often as 10 or 15 ganization affiliated with the U.S.-based the workforce, only get four months of years ago. In compliant factories where DHAKA, Bangladesh — Seated in a low- AFL-CIO, shows that union registration maternity leave instead of the standard they do actually pay their workers more, income housing unit in a Dhaka subdis- shot up in 2013 after the two tragedies, six months afforded by the country’s the issue now really is of respect.…For trict, Semu Begum spoke fervently of her with the government approving more than labor law, and those with children are a lot of workers, they call it a ‘mental two-year-old son, Shifat Hassan, who is 80 unions. This is a significant increase often separated from them because of torture,’ basically a shorthand for being currently staying with her parents in her compared with the one union approved an inability to care for them while work- verbally abused,” adding that once this home village. Semu has not seen him in in 2012. But the current number, which ing long hours, she said. hurdle is crossed, a more productive re- more than a year because she must re- stands at more than 100, makes hardly a In addition, the country’s newly man- lationship will emerge. main in Dhaka for her job at Lifestyle dated monthly minimum wage of 5,300 Islam, whose Sparrow Group fac- Fashion Maker factory. taka, or about $68 — an amount Akhter tories manufacture clothing for inter- “I feel like I should stay with him and Semu Begum considers insufficient to meet living ex- national brands including Ann Taylor, take care of him, but I am poor and I have penses and the lowest in the region — Gap, Marks & Spencer, Zara and Mango, to work,” said the 22-year-old. “I have no is not instated by all factories, nor are agrees about the lack of communication. other choice.” workers getting paid on time. She said “Sometimes owners are completely Semu’s sentiment is echoed by workers factories that have instated the new misinformed and they are making their throughout Dhaka almost a year after the wage have raised production targets, decisions and overreacting without un- Rana Plaza collapse that left more than making it difficult for already over- derstanding what workers are thinking,” 1,100 people dead. While Bangladesh is un- worked employees. said Islam, whose factories export $100 dergoing positive changes in the form of re- “They are tired and they are being million worth of clothing each year. newed fire and building safety following two given high production targets,” Akhter To solve this problem, Islam meets massive factory disasters, labor activists say said. “If they cannot meet it, the owners with representatives elected by work- the country is still not adequately address- cut their overtime and they cut their at- ers twice a month to discuss any issues, ing the needs of the 4.2 million workers who tendance bonuses.” from pay raises and overtime hours to help fuel the $23.5 billion industry. Still suffering the effects of a difficult taking holiday leave. One reason is a lack of awareness or caesarian delivery because of her long “This has been phenomenal and a misunderstanding of how unions op- hours sitting at a sewing machine, Semu it created a real touch point between erate, especially in the historical con- said her total monthly pay of about [me] and the workers,” he said. “In the text of Bangladesh, said Shawn Islam, a $77 is insufficient, especially since she middle of everything that has happened Bangladeshi-American owner of two gar- sends money to her family to take care in the last five years, I have had zero ment factories in Dhaka. He pointed at of her son and her sick father. strikes in my factories.” the manufacturing of jute — a raw fiber dent in a country with 4.2 million workers. “The pay is still not enough because Mohammad Shahidullah Azim, vice used to make sacks — a once-growing in- Existing union leaders and members are I can never save anything and I don’t president of the Bangladesh Garment dustry that manufacturers believe was still facing constant pressure from factory know what I will do for my son’s future,” Manufacturers & Exporters Association, curtailed by unions. owners, said Nazma Akhter, founder of the she said, adding that a combined in- which represents the country’s more “Union experience in this part of the Independent Garment Workers Federation. come with her husband of about $250 a than 4,000 factories, said there needs world is very bad because it is usually run “When workers are part of a union asso- month would be best for their family. to be an understanding between em- by bad leadership,” Islam said. “A lot of ciation, they would lose their jobs or face Before the wage rise in November, ployers and workers that unions cannot the jute industry owners moved into the different types of harassment,” the former Semu said workers in her factory were work at the expense of productivity. garment industry, and they have had this child worker said in a recent interview. only required to make 50 to 60 pieces of “We welcome trade unions, but it has bad taste and think unions are bad, so Improved building and fire safety in garments a day. She said, “Now they say to be constructive,” said Azim. “Workers they are not very supportive.” factories also does not automatically our production target each day is 100 to 120 have a responsibility, as well. If they only pieces. If we miss the target, the supervisor spend their whole day going about union would use abusive language against us.” matters, production will be hampered.” Anjuna Shil, who has been a gar- He also claimed that any increase to ment worker since she was 13, said she the minimum wage is unfeasible as buy- receives less than the newly mandated ers refuse to pay factories more. There wage, but was rebuffed when she ques- is a stark disparity between well-known tioned factory management about it. brands putting a price tag of $99.99 on “The government should tell the a high-quality shirt while demanding to owners to pay us our rightful salary be- pay $14.99 to manufacturers, Azim said.

Workers at one of Sparrow Group’s factories.

cause they are making millions of dol- Lejo Sibbel, a representative of the lars every year,” the 18-year-old said. International Labor Organization’s Mohammad Mehdi Hassan Nayan, a Better Works program, said the immedi- 30-year-old cloth cutter in a different ate direct threat to the industry may be factory, said his rent and food prices safety issues, but long-term sustainabil- have increased since the wage raise, ity will depend on the workers and their JULY 16, 2014 which was not implemented for him. freedom of association. “We were told that if we were un- “They are the ones that can make happy, we can go find another job,” said sure workers’ views are at the table and Nayan, a father of two. workers’ interests are taken into ac- While getting factories to be compli- count when there are decisions being ant with the law is key to improving the made,” said Sibbel, adding that the av- sector, Alonzo Suson, country director erage worker could contribute to ensur- of the Solidarity Center, said a bigger ing fire and building safety, as they often challenge would be modifying cultural know when something is amiss. attitudes that employers and employ- A lesson could be gleaned from the @WWDSUMMITS • #WWDDIG • WWD.COM/SUMMITS ees hold toward each other, which can accounts from Rana Plaza workers who To attend: [email protected], 212.630.4212 strain an already troubled industry. said they saw cracks in the building be- “Managers’ resistance is very fierce fore the tragedy occurred.

To sponsor: [email protected], 212.630.4824 in this country from many fronts. One “They didn’t want to go into the fac- BAXTER is from a class perspective,” said Suson. tory; they realized that something was WILL

“It used to be common where the higher not right,” Sibbel said. “Had there been BY SPONSORED BY: bosses in the strata would slap workers a union, maybe they could have come to-

for being slow. It was common to beat gether and refused to go into the factory.” PHOTOS WWD TUESDAY, APRIL 8, 2014 9 WWD.COM

TEXTILES Bangladesh was the subject of the keynote address, an op- portunity for Atiqul Islam, presi- Prime Source Details New Industry Dynamic dent of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters dustry in terms of exports. the market where it operates and Association, to address the con- By KATE WHITEHEAD “China’s garment industry is its product strategy, he said. cerns in the aftermath of the at a highly sensitive consolida- Commenting on the changes recent disasters — the garment HONG KONG — The global tex- tion phase. If the consolidation in China, Jaswinder Bedi, presi- factory fire in 2012 that killed tile and apparel industry is un- goes as planned, we can expect dent of the African Cotton & more than 100 people and the dergoing rapid changes. a five- to 10-year period of ben- Textiles Industry Federation, Rana Plaza factory collapse last Traditional business models, eficial growth,” said Zhang Xian, said, “Will China be the factory year that killed more than 1,100. manufacturing bases and markets secretary general of the General of the world? No. Will it be the Islam catalogued all that had are evolving, and retailers and Chamber of Commerce for Import market of the world? Yes.” been done to improve safety stan- suppliers need to keep up or risk & Export of Textiles and Apparel. Hong Kong-based Andrew dards and compensate workers, losing out, said sourcing execu- European, American and Lo, chief executive officer of but faced some tough questions tives at the Prime Source Forum Japanese retailers have all put the Crystal Group, which runs from the audience. He said the here. Acknowledging the tough pressure on Chinese suppliers offshore factories, said while cost of adopting new safety mea- market over the last few years, to satisfy demands about envi- he still believed in China, he sures — retrofitting the building, Felix Chung Kwok-pan, a Liberal ronmental impact, quality con- saw it becoming more upmar- buying fire doors and sprinklers Party lawmaker and mem- trol and social responsibilities. ket and more niche and pointed — is a major stumbling block for ber of Hong Kong’s Functional “All these requirements have factory owners in Bangladesh, Constituency for Textiles and been stepped up in recent years, where bank interest charges are Garment, said the long-estab- Atiqul Islam so companies that are able to inte- more than 16 percent. Of the lished way of doing business was grate their supply chains will be- 4,000 factories in Bangladesh, no longer workable. come the top choice,” said Zhang. he said, 1,600 have been checked “The production is mov- that have moved their supply Good infrastructure, high- for safety and, of those, just three ing away, the textile industry is chains to ASEAN countries — quality labor, complete industry had been failed by the review changing to a fashion industry, Brunei, Cambodia, Indonesia, chains and effective distribution committee and closed because sustainability and the IP trade — Laos, Malaysia, Myanmar, of information and logistics ser- they were considered unsafe. this is the right direction for us. the Philippines, Singapore, vices mean China’s east coast But for Tan, Bangladesh is no If we follow this direction we’ll Thailand and Vietnam. will continue to be an important longer an attractive option. The have a bright future,” Chung said “I believe this shift is driven base for manufacturing, said lower labor costs and prefer- on the second day of the confer- by the customer’s need for di- Zhang, despite the competitive ential trade policy with the EU ence at the InterContinental versification and alternatives, by advantage of other markets. that had been the key drivers of Hotel in Kowloon. trade agreements and by the cus- “Industry transfer of middle- its growth no longer outweighed The movement of manufac- tomer’s need for a shorter lead to low-end trade to the midwest the negatives. turing away from China was time and a more flexible and re- of China, as well as Africa and “I believe the limited supply chain resources and the longer a common thread through the sponsive supply chain,” said Tan. Southeast Asia, is an imminent Charles lead time are roadblocks for panel discussions. Rising labor Trade policies and lower trend and a win-win scenario for Dickinson costs and trade agreements are operating costs meant Vietnam most enterprises; however, the Bangladesh,” he said. behind the sea change that is and Cambodia, and possibly main arena will remain on the Commenting on the Rana seeing Association of Southeast Myanmar in the future, will see east coast of China,” said Zhang. to five attractive alternatives Plaza disaster, Charles Dickinson, Asian Nations, or ASEAN, major growth. In this new paradigm, roles to the mainland — Vietnam, head of global quality manage- manufacturing bases swell and “With [the Trans-Pacific are shifting. The long-standing Indonesia, Cambodia, Myanmar ment and sustainability at Esprit, prompting changes in the supply Partnership] on the horizon, we supply chain model of a low-cost and Bangladesh. said one of the most shocking as- chain. But don’t be too quick to believe there is a compelling rea- developing country producing “All except Bangladesh are pects of the tragedy was that six write off China — all the speak- son for upstream supply chain — and supplying mature markets ASEAN countries, but even that of the eight brands that were at ers at the two-day conference the spinning, weaving and dyeing such as the U.S., the European is next door to Myanmar, which the factory denied being there. that ended Wednesday agreed — to shift its manufacturing base Union and Japan is changing, is an ASEAN country, so logistic- “They weren’t supposed to it would remain the dominant to Vietnam,” Tan said. “It’s only said Tan. He argued that it’s no swise, it’s similar,” he said, ex- be there, but they were there,” player for some time. a matter of time before Vietnam longer clear which is the low-cost plaining that being a short-haul said Dickinson, highlighting Global brands such as develops its own upstream raw country and which is the mature flight away from the factory was another hot topic of debate, Adidas, Gap and Uniqlo that material capability.” one, and that there isn’t a clear an advantage from a manage- subcontracting. have come to the fore over the Despite his enthusiasm for distinction between the two. ment perspective. Because suppliers rarely say last decade want global sourc- the new manufacturing bases, he “It’s not easy to determine Yuttana Silpsarnvitch, ex- no to a deal, subcontracting is ing solutions, said Jason Tan, said China’s supply chain matu- which country is low-cost be- ecutive director of the Thai rife in the industry, and while executive vice president of rity and skilled labor force mean cause there are many other fac- Garment Manufacturers many brands think they know Luen Thai Holdings. By adopt- it will continue to dominate the tors besides just wage, such as Association, said although where their goods are being ing a multiple country of origin market, but at a reduced rate of supply chain maturity, stability Myanmar was still in its infancy, produced, unless they keep a sourcing strategy, they benefit growth. Last year, China’s gar- of the work force and different it had great potential. careful watch, they can easily from duty savings by taking ad- ment industry pulled in $284.07 trade agreements,” said Tan. “They have plenty of skilled be kept out of the loop. vantage of the different trade billion, according to Chinese With an increasingly complex workers…they have everything “In the fashion industry, policies between supplier coun- Customs. That accounts for 12.9 supply chain there is no longer except the facility, so I think it is still a bit fast and loose try and destination market. His percent of the country’s trade one right business model, but rath- within five years we can be in some parts of the world,” company is one of the many and makes it the third largest in- er the one that best fits the brand, there,” said Silpsarnvitch. Dickinson added.

for summer, I’m calling it ‘Brazilian’ — Interstoff Asia Keeps Focus on Fabric Quality the fabrics are exotic, graphic patterns; they aren’t afraid to be bright.” by Messe Frankfurt Inc.]. But there are He also saw green as a big trend for By KATE WHITEHEAD some interesting things here this year. I next spring, with the color running the walked down the first aisle and immedi- full spectrum from bright rainforest to HONG KONG — Interstoff Asia Essential ately found two fabrics I wanted.” dark greens. featured a fresh selection of innovative Taiwanese fabric manufacturer Xiaofei Li, design director at China’s fabrics on display, even as the exhibition DJIC Ltd. has exhibited at the fair for Trend Department of China Textile deals with shifting buying patterns. 15 years and developed a strong Hong Information Center, also pointed to The three-day fair saw 221 exhibi- Kong customer base. DJIC president green, especially fluorescent and minty tors from nine countries, slightly less Daniel Wu said it was a good opportu- colors. She said there was an increasing than the 229 exhibitors from a year nity to showcase new products, noting interest in high-quality, textured fabrics earlier. Attendance was also marginal- that the firm’s loose terry fabric, bond- on the mainland as consumers became ly down, with 7,027 visitors, compared ed fabric and Tencel were getting a lot more sophisticated. with 7,244 in 2013. of attention. “There is a new definition of luxury,” Deborah Dinter, designer for Banana “This time, we’ve found a new Li said. “Chinese consumers are more Blue, based in Melbourne, Australia, felt American buyer who likes the bonded mature in their understanding of luxury the fair might be losing some of its vital- fabric,” Wu said. “The Chinese buyers brands. It’s not just about having logos ity, but was still a good resource. are looking, too, but they can’t afford our Checking out the fabrics at Interstoff Asia. all over the products anymore, they care “I’ve been coming for six years and prices. They keep asking if we can do about the quality of the fabric.” each year it gets smaller,” Dinter said. something similar, but cheaper.” She expected to see more sculpted “I’m after fabric for ladies’ fashion and Exhibiting at Interstoff for the first were well attended. Doneger Creative fabrics as part of the 3-D fabric trend, I’ve found some Japanese fabrics I like.” time, Barry, the general manager of Services director Kai Chow, who gave the and said the translucent fabrics that Hong Kong-based Jasmine Shaoxing Youying Trading Co. Ltd., who opening trend address and oversaw the have been popular on the mainland will Saintonge, representing TMS Fashion, only goes by this name, said while the Trend Forum, said 3-D or dimensional be combined with nontransparent fab- was impressed with the quality and di- fair was an opportunity to touch base fabric is a big trend and colors for spring rics next year. In a suggestion that the versity of fabrics, but noted that the fair with his Hong Kong customers, new buy- 2015 are bright. lackluster economy, which put a damp- seemed less busy. ers were hard to find. “The new 3-D fabric has embroidery, er on this year’s fair, may be around a “There don’t seem to be as many buy- “We’ll probably come back again next stitch interest and weaving — they are while longer, Li added, “Gold will sweep GARETH JONES ers,” Saintonge said. “I don’t know where year, but it depends on how the economy adding another dimension to lace,” Chow the 2015 season. In this gloomy economy, they’ve gone, maybe to the Intertextile is doing,” he said. said. “Pink is still on trend for early we can expect to see a preference for

PHOTOS BY fair in Shanghai [both fairs are produced The fair’s seminars and fashion shows spring, as well as yellow and orange. And shiny gold.” 10 WWD TUESDAY, APRIL 8, 2014

perfectly circular bush with no hours and there’s a camera discernible peepholes, though in my forehead that’s filming he insisted he could see. you right now that represents eye “Do you wanna know the a higher consciousness that’s secret?” Tolbert said. “It’s documenting everything,” he sliced on the sides and cut at said grandly. The back of his the bottom like a pumpkin.” evening jacket was emblazoned The flamboyance was as with his own personal hashtag. much about self-expression as Naturally, he and Tolbert, the self-promotion. robot and the topiary, posed for Edmundo Huerta, aka Di Mondo, pictures together. a street style personality who Other guests at the gala, is a regular on the gala circuit, which raises money for art turned up in a crystal-encrusted restoration in Venice, included helmet reminiscent of those Padma Lakshmi, Tabitha Simmons worn by Daft Punk and had and Craig McDean, Camilla Al-Fayed, to practically fight off guests Lily Aldridge, Dustin Yellin, Wes requesting selfies. Gordon, Crystal Renn, Lauren and Dustin Yellin LEXIE MORELAND Adelina Wong Ettelson “There’s over 5,000 Andrés Santo Domingo, Sofía Sanchez and Tabitha and Edmundo Huerta Swarovski crystals, seven bottles Barrenechea, Bianca Brandolini Simmons

of the strongest glue ever, 120 d’Adda, Peter Brant Jr. and Amanda PHOTOS BY

Hearst, while cochairs Jessica Hart and Stavros Niarchos, in traditional Harder, Better, Faster Venetian carnival masks, arrived just in time for dinner. THE ANNUAL Save Venice of costumes that one-upped After the winners for masquerade ball is not for the each other — butterflies, best masks were revealed — faint of heart. birds and other forest critters; Shane Spinell and Sarah Flint, “This is a ball where people fascinators custom-made in Susan Krysiewicz and Derek really turn it out. I know Venice, and even a couple with Thompson took the prizes — a women who have been in matching horse masks. performance by The Dolls’ DJ dress, makeup and hair since 1 “It takes a village, that’s all Mia Moretti and Caitlin Moe got the p.m.,” said Adelina Wong Ettelson, I gotta say,” said Alexandra Lind crowd off their feet. who had not one but two birds Rose, who wore an elaborate Bibhu Mohapatra stood near perched atop her head. “I floral crown. the dance floor having already started getting ready at 2 p.m. Jean Shafiroff carried around shed his mask, though he said today,” she continued, blinking a bouquet of orchids while the disguise had its perks. “This through feathered lashes. Jeff Koons eschewed a mask is the one party where you don’t “Enchanted Garden” was altogether, and attorney Charles Lily Aldridge in Peter Brant Jr. and have to feel guilty if you don’t say the theme this year, and so Tolbert was buzzing around Marc Jacobs and Crystal Renn, both hi to people,” he said. “ Yo u can The Pierre hotel in Manhattan the room with a shrublike Stone Fox Bride. in Giorgio Armani. pretend you didn’t see them.” Friday night was a visual feast headpiece — that is, a green, — KRISTI GARCED

Kah Walla, Noha Khatieb, Diane von Furstenberg, Candy Sarah Jessica Parker and Liron Peleg-Hadomi. Land EVER SINCE the Broadway musical “After Midnight” opened last fall, it’s had a rotating cast of celebrity singers perform four of the more

Isabel Toledo, LAZOUR PATRICK prominent numbers in the Vanessa Williams RUDD revue-style show. and Ruben Toledo.

The latest is Vanessa SCOTT PHOTOS BY Glory of Gloria Williams, and on Friday, Isabel Toledo, who designed venture, where she is one the musical’s costumes, of several producers along PHOTO BY toasted the actress at the with Scott Sanders. She THE FIFTH annual DVF Awards took In addition to the roster of design studio she shares came to an early preview of place Friday night in true Diane von nominees, von Furstenberg called with husband Ruben in the show, which channels Furstenberg fashion. The designer took upon an equally impressive group of Manhattan’s Flatiron the Cotton Club and the over the United Nations building for presenters: Sarah Jessica Parker, Chanel District. Though Williams Harlem of the Thirties, the evening, converting the Midtown Iman and Tina Brown, whose Women in was top-billed, there was and immediately sought to Manhattan locale into a swanky lounge the World Summit ended the next day. another figure making the become involved. replete with splashy purple lighting, Meryl Streep was scheduled to present rounds who would have “I wanted to be a part of it faux palm trees, an army of p.r. girls to Steinem, but called in sick at the stood out even without the so much,” she said. Though swathed in wrap dresses and the last moment (von Furstenberg herself head-to-toe teal suit on her Spelling’s prior musicals expected coterie of famous fans. stepped in). back. It was Candy Spelling, have received Tony Award The evening’s program read “an The event officially kicked off with the second wife and widow Candy nominations, a win has eluded evening to honor extraordinary women” a three-song set by Estelle. The singer of Aaron Spelling, the Spelling her. She is carefully optimistic — and it was just that. Award recipients worked the crowd — a mix of Leigh Lezark, television impresario. about her chances this year. included Cameroonian political leader Natalie Joos, Jessica Joffe, Lauren Bush Lauren Spelling, who describes “I’ve got my fingers Kah Walla; Israeli community leader and Elizabeth Gilpin — goading them to get herself on her personal Web site as a “TV crossed. Are you kidding me?” she said. Liron Peleg-Hadomi and Arab on their feet and sing along. star, producer, author, public servant, “It is a tough season. It’s always a tough educator Noha Khatieb, and FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE Following the wife, mother, designer, blogger,” has in season. I don’t think there’s ever a shoo-in. Veronika Scott, founder of The performance, von recent years added Broadway producer It’s always a tough season on Broadway.” Empowerment Plan, which WWD.com/eye. Furstenberg took the stage to her credits. She has been involved with Williams made a quick round before employs homeless women, to give opening remarks. a series of musicals especially notable taking off to prepare for that night’s teaching them how to produce “ Yo u have humbled me for their starry casts — “How to Succeed performance, where in one of several weather-resistant coats that transform with your character and your in Business Without Really Trying” with striking numbers, she sang Calloway in into sleeping bags. Alicia Keys was given the resilience,”she said, after naming Daniel Radcliffe; “Promises, Promises” with a man’s suit. Inspiration Award for her philanthropy the honorees. Keys, clad in a cobalt the TV actor Sean Hayes, and “Nice Work If “As African-Americans and especially work in the fight against HIV/AIDS. DVF jumpsuit, was equally inspired. Yo u Can Get It” with Matthew Broderick. being from New York, it’s our music, it’s The night’s biggest honoree, though, “I’ve already written three songs on the “Since my husband passed away, you our history, and this is our American was Gloria Steinem, who arrived in a back of my program,” she laughed. can’t just sit home and knit,” she said songbook,” the actress said of her floor-length black skirt embellished The evening capped off with demurely in her throaty purr. Spelling’s attraction to the show. “This is a chance with an elephant-adorned chain belt. Steinem’s speech, during which the profile has a certain West Coast Zaz Zuh to do our songbook every night and dance “Isn’t it great?” she said during the subject of her 80th birthday came up Zaz, as one of the Cab Calloway songs in and celebrate an era that will never die.” step-and-repeat, lifting up her skirt once again. “People say, ‘Oh, you’ve the show goes, and she looked every bit Right there near the front row to reveal a pair of studded boots. sacrificed so much, now’s the time to do the Los Angeles doyenne — a blonde in later that night was Spelling herself, Steinem had just celebrated her 80th something for yourself.’ I mean, please bright pastels and a silver choker in a a Beverly Hills baby comfortably at birthday last week. “I have to live for — that is so wrong,” she said. “I don’t sea of black eveningwear. home on the Great White Way. another 20 years because I can’t finish think I’ve sacrificed one f--king thing.” “After Midnight” is Spelling’s latest — ERIK MAZA my writing deadlines,” she said. — LAUREN MCCARTHY WWD TUESDAY, APRIL 8, 2014 11 WWD.COM

a new site was twofold. rather democratically, “I new titles and the creation of MEMO PAD Glamour drives roughly think that anyone who brand initiatives for magazines 7.5 million unique does beauty content is a including Esquire, Car and NEW SHADE OF LIPSTICK: Glamour is visitors a month, with friendly competitor.” Driver, Popular Mechanics, throwing its hat into the crowded a large, undisclosed Noting that the Seventeen, Robb Report and beauty Webosphere with its own portion going to the Glamour reader differs House Veranda. digital site called Lipstick. beauty section of from the Allure reader, Current Billboard editor Joe Launching today at 10 a.m., the site, he said. A Chu said of Lipstick: “It’s Levy will assume a new role as Lipstick.com is essentially a separate site would a friendly sister site.” editor at large, which will allow separate entity from glamour. not only maximize how — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD him to return to writing, as well com and counts as Condé Nast’s beauty content will first digital spin-off, according be displayed — for BILLBOARD’S NEWEST Tony to a spokeswoman. example, Glamour can A screenshot of Glamour’s new beauty site, Lipstick. LEADER: Tony Gervino, a Visitors of glamour.com right-size beauty images former executive editor at Gervino who are looking to peruse and utilize special zoom-in tools staff would be made up of Hearst Magazines International, beauty content will be directed for viewers to see makeup — but Glamour’s print and digital will take the reins at Billboard on to Lipstick, which will also it also opens a larger revenue teams. The title’s executive April 28. He will report directly have a link on its site that will stream for the brand. online editor Lindsey Unterberger to Janice Min, copresident and take readers back to Glamour. “The newest thing is that we will also serve as Lipstick’s chief creative officer of parent Content will be similar to what have a whole array of native executive editor. company Guggenheim Media readers would find on Glamour’s [advertising] placements,” The second reason Glamour Entertainment Group. “Tony current beauty site, but there Hofman said. “We have those decided to launch Lipstick is has both the editorial vision and will be more of it. Lipstick on glamour.com as well, but that Condé Nast has owned the newsroom drive to lead Billboard will also feature stories from we have them more elegantly domain name since 1999. “They’ve into its next act,” said Min. contributors such as Vanessa Bayer integrated on Lipstick.” been sitting on this name,” offered At Hearst, Gervino was of “Saturday Night Live”; models Additionally, there will be an Glamour beauty director Ying Chu. responsible for overseeing as continue to develop new talent Coco Rocha and Chanel Iman, and e-commerce space for editors to “When we found out we could the editorial direction and content for the publication. Bee Shapiro, beauty writer for The link their favorite products to potentially grab Lipstick.com, we of all magazines in the The new hire marks New York Times, who is also the Glamour’s third-party vendor, were all like ‘Yes!’” company’s Home Design, several changes at Billboard, daughter of Anna Wintour. Shop Glamour. Name aside, when asked if Men’s Enthusiast, Teen and the largest of which is Min’s According to Michael Hofman, While there will be “clearly Glamour’s new site could pose Women’s Network groups. This expansive role, which includes Glamour’s executive digital labeled” sponsored posts as a threat to sister publication included oversight of editorial leading both Billboard and The director, the decision to create well, Hofman noted that the Allure, among others, Chu said, staff decisions, the launch of Hollywood Reporter. — A.S.

What’s Hall’s next project? “I’m Russian-born, American-based artists doing a panto in December, ‘Snow White are invited to fill the space of Paris’ FASHION SCOOPS and the Seven Dwarfs,’ in Richmond Grand Palais for the annual arts event, [England],” she said. “I’m the wicked succeeding the likes of Anselm Kiefer, queen. It should be fun.” — HOLLY HABER Richard Serra and Anish Kapoor. Tickets for the VIP tour of the Monumenta FIVET ADDS TO HOLDINGS: FiveT Capital Vince Cable presented Ahrendts with the VIP TOUR GUIDE: Natalia Vodianova is show and cocktail reception are priced at Holding AG, the Swiss investment fund, honor at a ceremony held Monday at the to organize a charity preview of 500 euros, or $685 at current exchange. which Friday reported that it held a British government’s Department for Monumenta’s Ilya and Emilia Kabakov Vodianova is expecting a child later this 20 million share, or 11.5 percent, stake Business, Innovation & Skills. exhibition on May 13. The proceeds will spring with Antoine Arnault, the son of LVMH in American Apparel Inc., on Monday As Ahrendts isn’t a British citizen, she go the Naked Heart Foundation, the Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton chairman reported that it had purchased an won’t be able to use the title “Dame,” but Russian model’s children’s charity. The and ceo Bernard Arnault. — LAURE GUILBAULT additional 2 million shares, boosting its will instead be entitled to use the letters stake to 22 million shares, or 12.7 percent “DBE” after her name. Ahrendts is set of those outstanding. The fund to join Apple this spring as said in its amended filing with FOR MORE senior vice president of retail the Securities and Exchange SCOOPS, SEE and online stores, while Commission that it had on Christopher Bailey will succeed Friday acquired 2 million WWD.com. Ahrendts in the ceo role at shares at 50 cents each, Burberry, while keeping his representing an additional $1 chief creative officer title. million investment. American — LORELEI MARFIL Apparel sold 61 million shares at 50 cents each in a secondary public offering HOMEWARD BOUND: “It’s always great last month. Calls to FiveT seeking to be back in Dallas,” said Jerry Hall, small space comment weren’t returned. just after a $25,000 jewel-encrusted The most recent purchase was made cuff was sold off her wrist for charity. by FiveMore Special Situations Fund, Christened the “original supermodel” a limited liability company based in by debonair auctioneer Alexander the Cayman Islands that is advised by Gilkes, Hall was the marquee guest FiveT. — ARNOLD J. KARR

CALVIN’S NEW GIRL: Dutch model/ actress Doutzen Kroes has inked a deal to serve as the face of Calvin Klein’s newest women’s scent, Reveal, due out in September. The 29-year-old has also appeared in major advertising campaigns for L’Oréal, Victoria’s Secret and Tiffany & Co. — JULIE NAUGHTON

COLDWATER CREEK EXPECTED TO LIQUIDATE: Women’s specialty chain Coldwater Creek Big is expected to file a voluntary Chapter 11 petition this week, with the intention of holding an orderly liquidation of its assets, sources said. WWD reported in February that liquidators were circling around the retailer. Some of DANIEL DRIENSKY Business those liquidators were eyeing the chain Jerry Hall

as a possible liquidation back in late PHOTO BY November, when the company held one promotional sale after the other. for Re:Define, the third annual WWD Marketplace is the premier destination The chain said in October that it was contemporary art sale and benefit. exploring options, including the sale of It’s no wonder the gala racked up the company. Since then, it has been in more than $2 million for MTV’s Staying for the industry’s classified and career listings. discussions with potential lenders as it Alive Foundation and the Dallas tried to get some breathing room after Contemporary — the catalogue offered finding that there were few buyers for works by Julian Schnabel, Damien Hirst, the chain. — VICKI M. YOUNG Richard Phillips and more. Phillips was on hand for the event at the Dallas 800.423.3314 AHRENDTS’ ACCOLADE: Angela Ahrendts, Contemporary and chose the music, the outgoing chief executive officer of selecting languorous rock by Brooklyn Burberry, has been named an honorary duo Starred and a DJ set by Black DBE, or Dame Commander of the British Bananas. Guests included Chandra North wwd.com/marketplace Empire, for her contribution to British Blaylock, Nasiba Adilova and Hall’s son, business. The U.K.’s business secretary Gabriel Jagger. Close Date : 4/23 Issue Date: 5/6

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