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HoROLOGICAL'M NUMBER 6 JUNE2004 TIMES CONTENTS An Official Publication of the FEATURE ARTICLES American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute TAG Heuer Presents the Carrera Limited Edition to 8 EDITORIAL & EXECUTIVE OFFICES AWCI, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030 1964 Timepieces at the Basel Fair Phone: Toll Free 1-866-367-2924 or (513} 367-9800 The 2004 Basel World Watch and Clock Fair 10 Fax: (513} 367-1414 E-mail: [email protected] Web Site: www.awi-net.org By Jack Kurdzionak Office Hours: Monday-Friday 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM (EST) Watch Production and Import Statistics Closed National Holidays 18 By James Sadilek Donna K. Baas: Managing Editor, Advertising Manager Katherine J. Ortt: Associate Editor, Layout/Design Associate Servicing a Platform: The Basics, Part 1 20 James E. Lubic, CMW: Executive Director & By David J. LaBounty Education & Technical Director Visual Needs of Watch and Clockmakers, Part 3 Lucy Fuleki: Assistant Executive Director 26 Thomas J. Pack, CPA: Finance Director By Dr. Joseph R. Panza Laurie Penman: Clock Instructor Nancy L. Wellmann : Education Coordinator Sharon McManus: Membership Coordinator COLUMNS Mary Huff: Shipping Coordinator Heather Kyde: Receptionist/Secretary The Modern German Clock Movement, By Mark Butterworth 14 Steve Jones: Audiovisual Manager Gary Richards: AWl -ELM Trust Development Director Part 45, When the Clock Timer and the Clock Hands Don't Agree Rock Quarry, By Fred S. Burckhardt 16 HOROLOGICAL TIMES ADVISORY COMMITTEE James Sadilek: Chairman Lloyd Lehn, CC DEPARTMENTS Chip Lim, CMW, CMC, CMEW Robert D. Porter, CMW President's Message, By Jack Kurdzionak 2 Manuel Yazijian Executive Director's Message, By James E. Lubic 2 AWCI OFFICERS Jack Kurdzionak, CW: President Questions & Answers, By David A. Christianson 4 Jim Door: First Vice President Ask Huck, By J. M. Huckabee 6 Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CMEW: Secretary Mark Butterworth: Treasurer AWCI Material Search 17 AWCI DIRECTORS Bulletin Board 24 Henry Frystak, CMW AWCI New Members Roland (Ron) Iverson, CMC 31 Robert D. Porter, CMW From the Workshop, By Jack Kurdzionak 32 James Sadilek Dennis Warner Affiliate Chapter Report, By Glenn D. Gardner 34 Manuel Jean Yazijian AWCI-ELM Trust Update, By Gary Richards 40 James K. Zimmerman , CMW, CMC, CMEW Glenn D. Gardner, CMW: Affiliate Chapter Director Industry News 42 Joseph Juaire: Research & Education Council Director Tony Riggio, CMW: Industry Advisory Board Director Classified Advertising 44 Advertisers' Index IMMEDIATE PAST PRESIDENT 48 Robert D. Porter, CMW AWCI Employee Directory 48 FELLOW - American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute ·Harold J. Herman SPECIAL INTEREST Robert F. Bishop J.M. Huckabee James H. Broughton Gerald G. Jaeger AWCI Directors' E-mail Address Directory 24 Fred S. Burckhardt Benjamin Matz David A. Christianson Robert A. Nelson Committee Help Wanted and Needed 28 George Daniels ·Hamilton E. Pease Golden Triad Watchmakers Guild Auction 29 Wes Door Archie B. Perkins ·Henry B. Fried William 0. Smith, Jr. Watchmakers/Ciockmakers Association of Ohio Convention 35 Josephine F. Hagans Milton C. Stevens ·Orville R. Hagans ·Marvin E. Whitney The Maine Event 36 Ewell D. Hartman ' Deceased AWCI-Educational, Ubrary & Museum Charitable Trust Fundraising Raffle 39

Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without wriaen permission from the Afneri. can Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute. Copyright ©2004 by the American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute.

COVER This month's cover features the limited edition TAG Heuer Carrera. President's Message Jack Kurdzionak, CW

The four-hundred-year-old quote, "No man is an Island," has a timeless meaning for all. No one among us lives so independently that his existence does not affect others around him in some way. Extend that concept of interdependence to our Institute and you will see that what all of us do is interrelated in some way. Watchmakers and clockmakers not only relate to each other as mem­ bers of the Institute, but to the timepiece manufacturing and distributing sectors of our industry as well. All of us are in this business together and our success or lack of it will be dependent upon our interrelationships with all segments of the industry. In its early days, the Institute and its predecessor organizations enjoyed a relationship with the American watch and clock industry, as it then existed, to our mutual benefit. The companies provided product support and technical information to assist our membership in the repair of the products made by those companies. AWCI was the liaison between those companies and our membership. The companies valued our position as the one group that gave them access to a unified talent pool, which could service their products. As time passed, American watch and clock manufacturing gradually disap­ peared and our Institute's position in the industry faded along with that of the manufacturers. Fast-forward to today and the American manufacturers are virtually gone, however, the Institute is still here. Yes, we are a smaller and more diverse group than we were in the past, but we are still here and we still have a place in the industry with our pool of talented horologists. What we need is a better relationship with the manufacturing and distribution side of the industry, which is now focused in Switzerland and Asia. During the past year, AWCI's administration and board of directors have been diligently working to build new relationships with the companies that are manufacturing and distrib­ uting watches and clocks. The companies acknowledge that the American market is one of the most important in the world and that AWCI is the only vehicle that exists for them to have a relationship with the talented people who belong to our organization. We recognize that, with the assistance of those companies, we can help American watch and clock makers service their products in a way that will be mutually satisfactory to our members as well as the consumers of their products. To paraphrase the Rev. John Donne, "No manufacturer or repairer is an island, we need each other." Executive Director's Message James E. Lubic, CMW

June 2004 is the last month of AWCI's fiscal year 2003-04. The President, Executive Committee, Committees, AWCI staff, and a number of industry partners have all worked hard this past year to make AWCI the premier organization for watchmakers and clockmakers. I would like to congratulate and thank each individual (too many to list) for their time and dedication to AWCI. It is also time to make those last minute plans to attend AWCI' s Annual Convention which will take place August Slh thru the Slh in Portland, Maine. You have been reading for the last few months in the HT about all the fantastic educational opportunities that await you in Maine. This year's convention will truly be The Maine Event of the summer. Terry Kurdzionak deserves major kudos for her hard work in providing a convention to remember. Terry and Lucy Fuleki here at AWCI are in almost daily contact working out the details of the upcoming event. You owe it to yourself to experience the fruits of their labor. As a professional in our trade you really owe it to yourself to attend. It is very hard to convey all the positives that come from attending this type of convention. You will learn about the Affiliate Chapters and the role they play in AWCI's future success. You will meet and talk with members who experience the same things that you experience on a daily basis. One of our Affiliate Chapters, the Chronometer Club, also meets just prior to our convention. They also provide fantastic opportunities to improve yourself. You will have the opportunity to not only see your Board of Directors in action, but also participate in the meeting. Representatives from the REC schools and the Industry Advisory Board will also meet and discuss the future of our trade. The AWCI-ELM Trust Fund-Raising Dinner will be extra special. How often do you have the opportunity to attend a clam bake? Or even better yet, a clam bake with 80 to 100 watchmakers and clockmakers and their spouses. Don't wait any longer to purchase a chance to win a week in New Hampshire-it's only $25. The educational programs on Saturday should be phenomenal. You have read about all of them and the topics in recent issues of the HT. The trade fair also will be held on Saturday. Come and make some new business contacts during the trade fair and see the latest in tools and equipment. Don't miss this chance to rub elbows with your peers. You will have a great time, learn so many new things, have so many new ideas of your own, and go home with a new sense of pride about your profession and yourself. I guarantee it!

2 Horological Times • June 2004 it's time to check out these new items from McCaw's!

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Question Answer Valos Gallery of shops in on the east A customer of mine has asked Your very fine Swiss-made side of the courtyard; the Beaujolais me ifl can find some information about chronograph pocket watch was sold by Gallery on the north; and the his watch. I do not have the facility to Henri Templier, a jeweler and goldsmith Montpensier Gallery is on the west, research it but I thought that some of and obviously a seller of fine time­ fronting Montpensier Street. The Palais your experts may give us some infor­ pieces, who proudly placed his name Royal was originally the home of Car­ mation. I am enclosing five pictures and address on the inside back cover dinal Richelieu, Louis Xlll's prime min­ and hope they provide enough detail so (cuvette) of your watch. ister. It was later owned by the due de that you may give me some clue of the Henri Louis Templier (b. 1856 Chartres et Orleans, who encouraged maker and origins of this watch. - d. 1926) lived his entire life in the opening of cafes, gambling dens and Karel Vystrcil and operated out of his shop at #17 other public entertainment facilities in Newark, CA Montpensier Gallery in the still famous the 18th century. When Thomas Palais Royal. Before that he was at Jefferson was in Paris as the U.S. #8 Royal Street. Ambassador to in the later 18th The Palais Royal, located di­ century, he would do his shopping at rectly across the street from the Lou­ the Palais Royal. vre Museum complex, is the home of We don't know who made the several French government offices. Its chronograph watch movement with its large main courtyard, stretching to the minute recording register, but it is a very north, is surrounded by arcades and high-quality movement and the style of houses many shops and cafes. The the hairspring stud holder strongly sug­ gests that it was made in the western part of Switzerland, most likely in Geneva. The finely and expertly crafted chronograph mechanism would have been made in the Valle de Joux. The date of 1926 on the watch agrees with the style of movement that is in the case. However, I have no way of knowing what crest is on the out­ side back cover. I have no way of knowing how long Mr. Templier was in the Montpensier Gallery, but there is a possibility that the watch commemo­ rates Henri Templier's tenure at the Palais Royal shop, since the date of 1926 on inside back cover coincides with the year of his death. David Christianson, CMW, CMEW, FAWJ, Technical Editor 0

4 Horological Times • June 2004 For the Latest in Watchmaker's Tools & Parts .IItt rei visit JulesBorel.com, click on products

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Worn Winding Arbor in an Source of Clock 8-Day American Clock Pivot Bushings

Question Question What can be done for an American The tools and bushings for clock re­ clock with a badly worn winding arbor? The pair are available from every supply house. What arbor is loose in its bearing. are the merits of various tools? Also, I've read your articles on lathe-turned bushings; why Answer lathe-turned bushings? Have you disassembled the move­ ment? In most cases the arbor is good and the Answer plate bearing is badly worn. If indeed this is Any tool and method that do a good an arbor problem, make a new one. A piece job, in a time efficient period, are a good com­ of cold-rolled steel rod is suitable. You will bination. That which fits your skills, the eco­ need lathe work, and milling work to form the nomics of your business, and your "class of the winding square. Also, the winding ratchet trade" is a good choice. Temper those things wheel is a hard press-fit to the arbor. A main­ with what you like best and you have a clear spring hook is fitted to a cross hole in the ar­ view of what you should do. bor. I've made a number of these over the Yes, I lathe-tum bushings. I have the years. But every one was from a torn up wind­ skill, the tools, and the desire. In the early 1960s, ing square. I obtained the best bushing system that was I suggest you disassemble the move­ available. I used it a couple of years and gave ment and carefully examine the plate bearing. it away, because with my skills and other exist­ That is a much easier job. ing tools it was not time efficient. It was very The plate bearing overhangs the front good, but I was less productive. plate, and is staked in place on the plate back­ Another problem was bushing length. side. I do not tolerate bushings where the length over­ The bearing should be cut free on the hangs the plate. Neither do I tolerate bushings back-side for removal. I suspect a new bear­ that are slightly shorter than plate thickness. ing from a commercial bushing assortment may I have no argument with people or bush­ require some lathe modification to fit your ing systems. In fact, if I did not own this group movement. of well-tooled lathes, I would be in the market This piece can be made on a watch­ for a new bushing system. makers lathe from "half-hard" brass. The 0 lathe accessories must be larger than those used on watches. A lathe somewhat larger would be a better choice. The AWCI book, The Top 300 Trade Secrets of a Master Clockmaker, shows this job in detail, as done on a watchmakers lathe.

6 Horological Times • June 2004 The American Watch Guild announces the creation of the

International Watch Collectors Society The Society will provide its members with the following

• Calendar of major watch sales & auctions. Antiquorum, Christie's, Phillips & Sotheby's The previews of upcoming auctions. Reports: photographs, prices and auction results. • Announcements from significant watch firms of new releases and limited editions. • Information about emerging new master watchmakers and their creations • Establishment of regional chapters where the collectors can meet and have guest speakers from noteworthy watchmaking factories. • Question and Answer service by Stewart Unger, noted watch authority & author. • Annual meeting at the Concours d'Elegance at the summer Jewelers of America Show held at the Javits Center in New York. • A book club. • Plus Free Booklets: How to Buy a Watch (and its Functions) The Care and Service of Timepieces Where to Find the World's Finest Watches How to Detect a Counterfeit Watch

Membership 1 year~ $65 2 years ~ $120 6 Issues of Collectors Corner per year Invitation to the Concours d'Elegance

Master Collector 1 year~ $120 2 years ~ $220 the above plus: 10% discount from the Book Club Rebate coupons from Manufacturers

Membership Application Name. ______.Phone. ______Address. ______City ______State ___ Zip:. ____

Make check payable to: International Watch Collectors Society, LLc 244MadisonAve., #258NewYork, NY 10016 • Fax: 516~374~5060 TAG Heuer Presents the Carrera Limited Edition to 1964 Timepieces at the Basel Fair An exclusive model to celebrate its 40th anniversary

The idea for the Carrera model was conceived in And to commemorate the 40 years of its history the paddocks during the 1962 Twelve Hours of Sebring, marked by numerous vicissitudes and great aspirations, one of the most celebrated endurance races of the era, the case back of this Carrera is engraved with its initial and was designed by Jack Heuer in 1964. Over time, it production date, its anniversary date, the signature of its went on to reveal all of the qualities inherent in the aes­ creator, Jack Heuer, as well as its individual production thetic choices of its particularly well thought out design. number together with the words: "40 years of Legend". Lap after lap, a competition race car paces itself, and then, as its opponents are sized up, undergoes modifi­ cations to better adapt it to the configuration of the track. With obvious similarities, the Carrera chronograph was destined to experience the same adventure. Reworked and consistently improved with the passing years and events, this timepiece went on to win a victory over time. TAG Heuer has chosen to pay tribute to this re­ markable creation and commemorate with elegance one of the high points of the Carrera saga, by releasing, for its fortieth anniversary, a new edition of this legendary chro­ nograph, limited to 1964 watches. The Carrera chrono­ graph is one of the most representative models of the brand's commitment to competitive watchmaking. The edition of 1964 exclusive watches alludes to its year of creation - 1964 - the year during which Jack Heuer himself, who headed the company at that time, pro­ duced the first model. The 1964 Carrera Limited Edition finds its inspi­ ration in the distinctive lines of the 1964 model's case, which was at odds with the traditionalism of the era, and its limited production numbers make it a singular rarity among prestigious timepieces. This distinguished chronograph is equipped with a finely-crafted self-winding mechanical movement, but its exclusive nature is underlined by the fact that it is aes­ thetically different from any other piece in the permanent collection. Paying close attention to detail, TAG Heuer adapted the dial to the 1964 case. As a result, it is a unique collector's item, characterized by a face with two anthra­ cite subdials, a tachometer at the 3 o'clock position, a red second-hand and a date register at the 6 o'clock position.

8 Horological Times • June 2004 Technical Characteristics: Movement: mechanical automatic self-winding chrono­ Case Op_eners graph with an ETA 2894 base movement

L-G iOPENALL'i Functions: hour hand, minute hand and permanent mo­ WATERPROOF CASE WRENCH tion second hand at 3 o'clock, 30 minute registers at 9 Designed to open Rolex Oyster" cases. The six o'clock position, date at 6 o'clock, specific tachometer tempered rings will fit every existing size and because they are precision-made to interlock, they scale for the calculation of slow speeds will not slip. The built-in adjustable case holder fits all size watches. The L-G lOpenalli can also be Face: Silver only, with anthracite subdials, red chrono­ used in conjunction with the L-G wrench. Ring sizes are 18.5, 20.2, 22.5, 26.5, 28.3 and 29.5mm . graph hand, flange with anthracite-coloured minute CWR-650.00 Openall Case Wrench ...... •...... $69.25 markers CWR-655.00 Open all Case Wrench w/ Base ...... $77.30

L-GMASTER Crystal: sapphire CASE OPENER Opens all sizes and shapes of Water-resistant: to 5 ATM waterproof cases. Comes with four sets of pins for case backs with notches, holes, Bracelet: Black perforated calfskin strap on steel folding knurled or polygon. Because clasp. of the L-G patented closing system, backs can be unscrewed without being scratched. Pins and accessories also available. 5-1/2" in length. USA made. CWR-600.00 ...... $44.95 Case back: steel screw back engraved as follows: Carrera 1964-2004 40 years of legend Primrose Supplies Inc. Signature of Jack Heuer, the original creator who participated in its development www. info@prfmrosesupplies. com Limited edition XXXX/1964 0

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June 2004 • Horological Times 9 The 2004 Basel World Watch and Clock Fair

Jack Kurdzionak, CW

The 2004 Basel World Watch and David and Trisha arrived early to Clock Fair was held April15-22 at the Messe spend a few days enjoying Switzerland touring Platz in beautiful Basel, Switzerland. Atten­ some historic and scenic places before the Fair dance figures are not yet prepared, but most opened on Thursday morning. I arrived on experienced visitors agreed that the fair was Wednesday and did my best to stay awake as very well attended, especially in light of 2003's long as possible to coordinate my body to the disappointing turnout. The weather was su­ six-hour time difference between home and perb. Not too cold, not too hot and very little Switzerland. The first day in Switzerland is the rain. Every hotel anywhere near Basel was most difficult for most travelers from the USA sold out. My son David and his wife, Trisha, because they must adjust to the time accompanied me to the Fair. We stayed in a difference. fantastic Bed & Breakfast in the small village We arrived at the Fair on Thursday of Kappel, about a 30-minute drive from the morning and collected our free passes and Fair. Even this modest lodging was filled to Basel Catalogs at the North American Visitors capacity during the week of the Fair. AWCI Counter. These passes and catalogs cost all member Bert Kalisher and his wife, Marcy, others about $130 per person. Pre-registered also stayed at this same B&B to enjoy the North American visitors are admitted to the Fair small town hospitality offered by the owner, at no charge. It is impossible to visualize the Peter Weber. Bert Kalisher is the publisher of scope of the Fair. Its floor space can more easily two horological magazines, WCR and be comprehended in terms of acres rather than Chronos. square feet. Their buildings have displays from watch and clock com­ panies, jewelry com­ panies, machinery and tool companies, suppli­ ers of parts, packaging, etc., and anything else that is related to the watch, clock and jew­ elry business. The hun­ dred thousand visitors and vendors come from all over the world and speak a multitude of languages. Fortu­ nately for us, most ven­ dors have an English­ speaking representa­ tive to assist visitors.

Busy Basel street scene.

10 Horological Times • June 2004 Tony Voight, Witschi Electronics USA. David and Trisha Kurdzionak, Jack Kurdzionak, Caron & Bob Bray of Sinclair Harding Clock Co.

Luxury watchmaker's bench.

Bert Kalisher, Jack Kurdzionak, and Trisha Kurdzionak at breakfast. watch clock and jewelry industry from Asia. You name it and you could order it in that one building. The vendors at the fair were displaying their new­ The tool and machinery building attracted watch est products to a large and enthusiastic audience, who and clockmakers from all over the world. Bergeon, Birkenstock, Roxer, Greiner, Witschi, and many others often had to wait in lines to see their products. Many watch company reps told me that their appointment books were full for the entire week. Almost all of the Swiss watch companies are now offering mechanical watches again in HERMLE • KIENINGER • URGOS addition to their quartz watch lines. Military-style men's automatic watches with large bold black dials had strong H. HERR • REGULA representation. In addition, automatic chronographs for both from men and women were prominently displayed. Diamond Jlutttrblortb ~locks, lint. watch cases in stainless steel, stainless steel and gold, and Whyrepairwhen you can replace? karat gold are popular again this year. Various makers featured new women's strap models in bright pastel col­ THE lARGEST MOVEMENT SUPPLY IN THE WORLD ors, many highlighted with diamonds in the bezel. Over­ FREE PRICE LIST: size watches are in for both men and women. Call toll free: 1-800-258-5418 There were several very high quality clockmakers 5300 59th Ave. W • Muscatine, lA 52761 E-mail: bci@muscanetcom • Web:IMMN.butterworthclocks.com such as Sinclair Harding, from England, presenting their SAME DAY SHIPPING • TWO-VEARWARRANlY clocks at the fair. One huge building was dedicated to the Marl

June 2004 • Horological Times 11 Figure 6. Alesandro Betti emphasizing a point. Figure 8. Susan Lelyveld at ETA class.

Figure 7. Alessandro at his best. were there to tempt the artisans with all of their new tools Figure 9. Giovanni LoRusso at ETA class. and equipment. For the watchmaker, Greiner has a new dry water resistance tester just coming to market with a video screen display, in color, and controlled by a touch watches. He arranged a special tour of the nearby ETA screen. Witschi had several new products to test watches factory for our class. The factory visit included three de­ that will be coming to the USA soon. There were new partments. The first department was where plates and benches for watchmakers, which could be had for just bridges of ETA mechanical movements are specially fin­ under $10,000. You read that correctly. Watchmaker's ished and engraved for over one hundred different watch benches for public display in luxury watch stores are that companies that use these movements. We watched with costly. The more parsimonious amongst us could buy a amazement as rotors for Omega caliber 1120 were given decent bench for just under $2000 plus a bit of shipping. a precision line finish one at a time. Days were filled with visits to vendors while the The next department featured automatic lathes evenings were spent socializing with visitors and vendors and cutting tools, (which were working continuously dur­ at various cocktail parties provided by many watch com­ ing our tour) producing wheels, pinions, arbors, etc., with­ panies. When our business was completed at the Fair, out any human assistance other than reloading the ma­ David and Trish said goodbye and returned home. I re­ chinery. In addition to reloading the machinery, the work­ mained for four more days to attend an ETA class in basic ers in this department perform continuous quality control quartz watch repair. The class was taught by Alessandro by measuring the dimensions of the products to assure Betti, in English, at their Training Center in Grenchen. Stu­ they met ETA's specifications. dents from the USA, UK, Russia, Norway, India, and The last department visited was the quartz Pakistan filled the class. Alesandro was at his usual best crystal manufacturing department to view the actual helping the students solve the mysteries of repairing quartz cutting, plating, and trimming of these marvelous little

12 Horological Times • June 2004 Cyclonic Quartz Watch ~ Tester ~ Figure 10. Mads Kongerud, watchmaking student from Norway. D nves all types of quartz watches by magnetic energy. Easy to use and understand. Features include: • Re-animation movement • Time setting • Tests hand setting • Tests concentric running of gear train • Improvement of lubrication • Tests battery • Can set locked trains into motion again • Enable repair of most permanently sealed watches ~~'"~~.€! Stock No. 598.325 €1~~~~·t Sale Price $295.00 Regular Price $350.00 Accucell

This cell is designed to power Bulova Figure 11 . Katja Thorensen, watchmaking student from Accutron tuning fork movements. It Norway. replaces the original mercury 387 & 343 cells. This cell has a voltage dropping circuit that produces a 1.35v to 1.40v output when operating inside timekeepers. We did not actually enter this climate con­ the movement. trolled, dust free production area but we were able to view Stock No. Each 4+ the operation through the large windows in each work Bat-Accucell-1 $6.00 $5.50 area. Every day, a delicious, complimentary lunch was served to all students in the ETA company cafeteria fol­ lowed by a beverage and dessert. Upon completion of the class, Alesandro presented each participant with a hand­ some certificate, suitable for framing and posting in a shop. www.Livesayslnc.com Alessandro asked me to convey his best regards to his many friends in the USA who are AWCI members. He has visited our headquarters several times to present his classes at Harrison. If you wish to attend a future class at ETA, go to their website www.eta.ch for a complete sched­ ule of classes in English. The classes are at no charge and are well worth the time spent in Switzerland. In addition to the classes, all who attend have the additional fringe benefit of being able to buy a suitcase full of fine Swiss chocolate to bring home to family and friends. 0

June 2004 • Horological Times 13 The Modern German Clock Movement Part 45 When the Clock Timer and the Clock Hands Don't Agree Mark Butterworth

I recently received a call from a cus­ backwards in terms of the various levers pro­ tomer who had purchased two Hermle triple viding resistance to the star wheel on the chime weight driven movements at different minute arbor, there is a tendency for the minute times. Both were rated at 94cm which have a arbor to slip slightly with respect to the 3rct beat rate of 3960 bph. Both of the pendulums wheel. The result of this is that a clock that is were beating at that rate but one was losing geared to beat 3600 bph and a pendulum actu­ about 5 minutes per day and the other 2 min­ ally beating at exactly that rate can be losing utes per day. How could that be? If the move­ time usually in an amount of a few minutes ment had been geared or stamped incorrectly per day. Keep in mind that the timer measures then the hands would have been wrong by at the number of swings the pendulum makes per least an hour, but only a few minutes? hour regardless of how the clock is geared or To offer a background to this puzzle, whether the hands move at all. it has long been known theoretically that add­ Before the advent of the clock timer, ing another mechanism such as a strike and/or most did not realize what was happening and chime train to a timepiece (one which con­ simply adjusted the pendulum to keep time as tains only a time train) will interfere with the the loss per day was pretty much constant. timekeeping. This is by virtue of the fact that Now some repair people are more particular. additional force must be exerted by the minute The solution to the problem is to increase the shaft to unlock the additional train(s). In addi­ tension on the four pronged spring steel on the tion, the hand shaft of any movement has some 3rct wheel. It is possible to accomplish this in type of friction clutch arrangement so that the many (but not all) units without disassembly hands may be rotated independent of the train by inserting a wire bender and lifting a prong in order to set the time. and increasing its tension against the wheel. In most of the modern movements, the One should also inspect the chime unlocking 3rct wheel slips over the minute arbor and the system to see if there is a source of friction tension is provided by a 4-leaf piece of spring that is making the train unnecessarily hard to steel secured by an e-clip. Keep in mind that if unlock. the tension is much too great, damage can be As in other places in mechanics, there done to the train when turning the hands, and is "good" friction and there is "bad" friction. if it is below a certain minimum, the hands will In an automobile, the good friction allows the not turn at all given the least amount of brakes to operate, but the bad friction causes resistance. automotive drag and reduces mileage. In the This resistance is provided by the star clock, the good friction provides the proper wheel on the minute shaft just in front of the tension to allow the hands to move with the front plate. There is a given amount of force time train, but the bad friction in the chime lock­ that the star wheel must exert on the chime ing mechanism causes drag on the minute hand lifting lever in order for that to lift the unlock­ shaft. Hopefully this is helpful. ing lever. As a result, looking at the situation

14 Horological Times • June 2004 Speaking of timing, we still get many questions about the regulation of the new hairspring balance used by Her­ mle. The most common one is used in the 150, 340, 350, and 1050 series and regulating has a beat rate of 9000 bph. One revo­ spindle lution of the rating screw changes the timing by 1 minute per day. Some have asked for a diagram for themselves or their customers to aid in its adjustment. Shown is a copy courtesy of our friends at Pittsburgh Clock & Lock. It can be copied and printed to size for affixing to the inside rear door of the clock. The diagram also shows the amount for a 10 sec/day adjustment. Note that clock­ wise is slower and the opposite is faster.

Final thought: "Under promise, over ...... ,. . . Customers ...... deliver, "-Carl Sewell in •••••••••••• ,ft•••" 0 • "' • ~ • t I ,. for Life...... ,, .. . v ..... t t .... 0 ......

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June 2004 • Horological Times 15 Rock Quarry

Don't Throw It Away, Put It Away!

Fred S. Burckhardt, FAWI As much as I hate to admit it, I don't but none are to be found. You may be thinking like to throw things away. Take my bench for to yourself, "How can anybody lose three pois­ instance; I have several material tins where I ing tools?'' Let me tell you. It isn't easy. I re­ put old stuff like broken staffs, set bridges, member using one as a vise while I was trying crowns, coils, and even mainsprings. Some of to epoxy a broken arm on a setting bridge. Now you may laugh, but how often do you need an I can't find it, the setting bridge, or the move­ old worn crown, or a staff with one pivot? Don't ment it went into. tell me you never have any use for some very Thank goodness I take care of the fine copper wire from an old coil. larger tools like my staking set and lathe. There Now don't get me wrong, the store may be a few punches missing, but all in all, I shop is all neat and tidy. I've never had any can get by with what's left. If I can ever get complaints from customers, except that one them all together, I do have a very nice selec­ time when some kid was missing. I told the tion of chucks and other lathe accessories. woman to hold onto his hand when they came Several years ago I did gather them and put into the store. He was rescued three days later. them in their nice wooden box, all lined up and Seems he found his way into a closet where ready to go. It took almost a month before I we found him under some rubbish. It didn't remembered where I put the lathe. I finally tum out that bad. While cleaning up the mess, found the lathe. Now if I can just find that I found some things I didn't even know I had. wooden box. My shop at home is a lot better. The Have you ever put something in a nice other day I could almost get into it. I have some safe place so you'll be able to have it when old material cabinets stored in there that you need it? (One time I came across a bottle wouldn't fit in the store's shop. I know there is of roller jewels while trying to find something a treasure trove hidden away in the drawers else and thought to myself that someday I of an old bench. If I could just get to it, I know would need them and should put them in a nice there would be things I could use. The sad safe place.) It's been almost three years-! part is, there's a lot of money tied up in the old still don't know where they are. material and equipment. How many of you I have two case backs that have me have an old Paulson timer? See what I mean? worried. One is for a ladies watch and one for It must be worth at least four or five thousand a high-grade gents watch. Just where these dollars. If you're interested, I'll let it go for a two watches are, I have no idea at all. What lot less. has me worried is if someone is wearing one The older you get, the more stuff you of these watches, I hope they keep it away lose. It isn't exactly losing things as it is not from water as it is possible they could cause being able to remember where they are. I have some damage to the movement-if the move­ a watch sitting on the bench now that needs a ment is still there. Don't laugh and think to part, but I don't know what the name of the yourself, "People aren't that stupid." I have part is. I sent for, and received, the tech sheets some very strange customers. on the movement. Now I can't find the tech If you haven't experienced things like sheets. this happening yet, don't worry, your time is Tools that have been misplaced (an­ corning. Old age isn't that bad, especially when other word for lost) present another problem. you think of the alternative! For example, I have at least three poising tools 0

16 Horological Times • June 2004 Servicing a PlaHorm: The Basics Part 1

David J. LaBounty, CMC, FBHI

1: Supplies and Tools Tweezers: Small parts can't be handled well Cratex: A rubberized abrasive for deburring, with fingers and it will be nearly impossible to smoothing, and polishing with extra fine grain, service a platform without using tweezers. The square stick. This is used to clean and polish tweezers will have to be properly shaped at the pivots. the tips so as not to eject the piece being held. Small parts can be shot large distances, and probably lost with improperly shaped tweezer tips.

Parts Bin: A watch parts container with divi­ sions is handy, but not necessary.

Demagnetizer: Sometimes tools or parts will become magnetized and a demagnetizer is es­ sential for solving this problem.

Craytex abrasive stick

Eye Loupe: Magnification will be necessary to see wear, dirt, placement of oils, etc ...

Safety Glasses: Safety First! The glasses will protect your eyes as well as provide a place for your eye Ioupe.

Pith Wood: This soft wood is useful for hold­ Demagnetizer ing small parts while work is done, as well as for cleaning small tools that are poked into it. Hand Air Blower: A hand bulb for blowing air al­ lows you to direct the air­ flow, control the amount of air, and re­ move small particulates that wouldn't Important tools otherwise be Blower bulb

20 Horological Times • June 2004 million, with Switzerland accounting for $161.5 million. Italy, the U.K., and Germany were the next highest exporters, but they are far behind Switzerland with Italy at $3.6 mil­ T Tl!'!~ut~~~e~~~!e~~A~0~1!NC Toll Free: 1-888-847-7770 FAX: 1-213-624-2679 lion, the U.K. at $1.5 million and Germany at $1.2 million. Total imports to the U.S. of all automatically wound FLAT CASE BACK GASKETS ~ Each envelope contains 3 pieces of 30 pop­ watches, this would include the above group of watches ular sizes of flat gaskets. Totally 90 pieces. in precious metal cases, as well as those in other case For refills sold in pack of 5 gaskets. materials was $244 million. Again, Switzerland accounted OR-F90 Assortment $26.95 for the lion's share of these imports to the U.S. at $235 million. In contrast to the numbers of watches cased in precious metals category, Japan and China replaced Italy and the U.K. as second and third place exporters in the ,.._. ~ ---- ..... Replacement rivets total automatically wound watches category. Germany ~~-~tt:r IIEII'JaDII ·· for Tri Fold Buckle I •, ' • I Safety Locks, 10 remained the fourth placed exporter to the U.S. in both BC-910M-Mens $6.95 _.. . I tubes and 20 pins categories. BC-910L-Ladies $5.95 per size. Total 60 While recent reports from other sources indicate sets. Size: 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22mm that the world watch market has still not recovered from -cssyc. SP-60 Assortment $19.95 the high-flying 90s, the luxury market (mainly automati­ BC-920M-Mens $6.95 ~1------l~ BC-920L-Ladies $5.95 CITIZEN STYLE BUCKLES with cally wound watches from Switzerland) continues to out­ EXTENDER ~ perform the watch market as a whole. There are projec­ Size: 10, 16 mm tions that by 2005, the luxury market will have gained back Color: S/Steel & Yellow S/Steel: BC15-(Size/Color) much of ground lost in 2001-2002. Of course, there are 1+ $3.50 each 12+ $3.00 each mixed very few certainties in this world, but the market for luxury Yellow: BC15-(Size/Color) watch repairers appears sound and secure for the next 1+ $4.00 each 12+ $3.50 each mixed several years. 0

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June 2004 • Horological Times 19 AWCI Material Search

EDITOR'S NOTE: If you can supply any of the items listed here, please send details to the AWCI Material ANSONIA CWCKS & WATCHES Search. Do not send the items to AWCI. Members By Tran Duy Ly requesting these items will be advised of their availability, Our Regular Price $89.50! and will contact you directly. 055228 - Price update included $86.50 ea. 055228A ..•••••••••••$15.00 ea. ANSONIA Ci,OCK.•• & WA1'<:Hf.. S lSl Longines A817.4 regulator (307 or 30711) and balance complete (721/?)

1S4 Roskopf 10 size, serial #224344, escapement ACCUTRON 219 INDEX WHEEL wheel, mainspring and second train wheel 019237C ...... $17.40 ea.

1S7 Hamilton 757 winding pinion (new #331570, old#2113)

1S8 ETA 610 winding pinion (410/923), center wheel (201/140) with cannon pinion (240/209) or movement complete DAZOR FLUORESCENT lAMP LM-901-Gray ...... $172.85 ea. LM-902 - Black •••••••. $172.85 ea. lSlO Rolex RE10 setting stem

1 lSll Gruen 877 4 h wheel (220/?)

If you can supply any of these items please con­ tact: AWCI Material Search, American Watchmakers­ CHELSEA STAFF ASSORTMENT Clockmakers Institute, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 039324B •••••••••••• $13.44 asst. 45030-1696. Toll Free: 1-866-367-2924, ext. 305; Phone: (513) 367-9800, Fax: (513) 367-1414 or E-mail: [email protected]. MALE POST SPECIAL Regular price $14.40 dozen, Special Only The AWCI-ELM Trust, in cooperation with the $6.95 dozen! American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute, maintains 019236 •...... •...••.•$6.95 dz. this unique member service to assist professionals in re­ placing hard-to-find parts for vintage timepieces. There is a fee of $10.00 for each search. The AWCI Material Search first contacts sev­ Tools • Books and Supplies eral dozen material houses and outlets on behalf of the Clock Material • Crystal Fitting Service member to determine if the missing part is available from any commercial source in the United States or Canada. If American/Swiss Watch Material the part cannot be found, the search will be listed in the Mainspring Fitting Service • Clock/Watch Movements Horological Times. Name Brand Grandfather Clocks 0

:122:1 Yanceyville Sl. Gre<•m;boro. N.C. 27405 l'honl': 1-SSH-752-7li7:l • Fax: 1-SOO-:i::/--l:il:: • \\1\'\\'.,;hu-cN·.colll

June 2004 • Horological Times 17 Watch Production and Import Statistics

James Sadilek

Several months ago, AWCI received watch sales in the United States dropped from a very thick-{)ver 400 pages-statistical re­ 5.0% of the total units to 2.0% of total units. port entitled: The Market for Watches and However, the report projects that mechanical Clocks (Past Performance, Current Trends, watch sales will again rise to 2.3% of total unit and Strategies for the Future). Mostly, the sales by 2011. report is many pages of statistics, some of In one of the few pages of text be­ which are interesting, surprising, and perhaps tween the graphs and pie charts, the report useful to those engaged in the repair and retail states that overall future demand for watches sales of watches and clocks. will likely decline because so many other de­ Current annual world watch produc­ vices, personal computers, instrument panels, tion hovers very near 1.3 billion units. From cell phones, pagers, etc., are fitted with clocks, 1992, the earliest figures in the report, thru 1996, that the watch will become more of a fashion the number of units fluctuated very slightly from statement than a necessity. This would appear 1.04 billion units in 1992 to 1.09 billion units in to indicate that the decline will affect the utili­ 1996. Then for some reason, unexplained in tarian, throwaway market to a much larger de­ the report, world production jumped by 17% in gree than the luxury mechanical market. 1997 to 1.28 billion units. Numbers of units have been relatively flat since that time, going U.S. Imports of Watches and Clocks back down to 1.24 billion in 1999, and then The total value of imports of watches slowly rising again with the latest figure, an and clocks into the United States from all coun­ estimate, of 1.29 billion units for 2003. tries has hovered around $3 billion since 1998. It should come as no surprise that It was as high as $3.3 billion in 2000 and quartz analog watches account for 71.5% of dropped to $2.9 billion in 2001. the total units, with 1.7% listed as mechanical In 1995, Japan was replaced by Swit­ (approximately 22 million units), and "all oth­ zerland as the primary source for U.S. imports ers" at 26.8%. The report notes that "all oth­ of watches and clocks in dollar volume. The ers" includes digital watches. Not surprising annual amount of Swiss imports being about either is the fact that the Japanese watch in­ $1 billion. Japanese imports have fallen to ap­ dustry (year 2000) accounts for 731 million proximately $0.8 billion annually. Other coun­ units of the total world production (approxi­ tries providing significant amounts of imports mately 57% of the world's total). Disappoint­ of watches and clocks to the U.S. are China, ingly, the report does not contain production Philippines, Hong Kong, Thailand, and Ger­ figures for other individual countries. many. Of total world imports of watches and Of particular interest to watch repair­ clocks into the U.S., watches accounted for ers are the mechanical watch numbers. Me­ 85.6% of the dollar volume ($2.5 billion). chanical watches make up only 0.8% of Japa­ Most encouraging for the repair mar­ nese watch production, or 6 million of the ket is the fact that even during the overall down world's 22 million total mechanical watch units year of 2001, the import of automatically produced annually. While it is not stated in the wound watches in precious metal cases con­ report, the assumption is that by far the largest tinued to increase as it has every year for the share of the mechanical watches are from past several years. Total world imports to the Switzerland. From 1992 to 2002, mechanical U.S. in this category for 2001 were $169.4

18 Horological Times • June 2004 removable. Using your breath to blow on a piece will introduce water and could cause problems later on.

Oilers: Being able to place the oil exactly where it is needed is a necessity, and dip oilers greatly aid in that process.

"One Dip": A solution used to soak the jewels to loosen any dirt or particulates. Quickly evaporates without any residue. This solution contains 1,1, 1-Trichloroethane and is harmful if swallowed or breathed for prolonged periods of time. As with any chemical, read the warning label.

Small Screwdrivers: A good set of jeweler's screw driv­ ers is important in order to avoid damaging the screws or screw holes. Use the proper screwdriver for the screw.

Stakina: Set: A whole set isn't necessary unless advanced "One dip" solution repairs are required. One special punch is needed for removing the hairspring stud from the balance bridge and another flat faced punch for re-inserting it. The special punch can be made by inserting pinion wire into the hole of a flat faced hole punch.

Bench Block: A nice, slotted bench block will greatly aid in removing andre-installing the hairspring stud on the balance bridge. It can also act as a balance tack when a toothpick is inserted into one of the smaller holes.

Steady Hands: Small, detailed work will require a very steady hand. Use breath control, hand support, and don't work in midair. Stay away from caffeine or you may become frustrated handling the small parts.

Toothpicks: Used for cleaning the jewels and polishing the plate.

Screwdriver set

Dip oilers Examples of punches

June 2004 • Horological Times 21 Watch Cleanin~: Machine: Although not fancy, a good machine will get rid of the majority of the dirt and greatly ease the servicing process.

Watch paper

Watch Oil: The proper oil is as important as where it is applied. Clock oil is normally too stiff or thick for use as Handy bench block oil in platforms.

Watch Paper: Used to clean the jewels and is a clean surface to place parts. Controlled breathing will be needed while small parts are on the paper since it is very light and can be "blown" around.

II: WorkArea Prepare your area beforehand, including catch tray, bench top, and floor. A clean area will make it easier to find those wayward pieces as well as reduce the chance of introducing contaminates. It may even be advisable to "work in a bag" if this is your first time handling very small pieces. Create an area where pieces can't get away. The area should be well lit with very few shadows on the work surface.

Ill: Common Types of Platforms Lever Escapement: Club-toothed: This type of platform has the balance, fork, and escape wheel all in a line. The escape wheel has "club" shaped teeth.

Ratchet-toothed: This type has the fork off to one side of a line drawn between the balance and the escape wheel. The escape wheel has pointed teeth that are raked.

Modern Swiss: This platform style has a club-tooth, le­ ver escapement with an adjustable hairspring stud holder and regulator. This makes adjusting the beat and rate very Simple watch cleaner easy. The method of mounting the jewels is sometimes with springs rather than screw settings.

22 Horological Times • June 2004 Ratchet toothed lever platform

Parts in groups

Cylinder escapement platform

Cylinder: This type of platform has no fork. The escape Removing the balance bridge wheel has raised triangular teeth that move in and out of a notched cylinder on the balance.

IV: Taking Apart Make Groupina:s: It is important to keep bridges to­ gether with their screws and other associated parts. A divided tray or separate portion of the bench works well. In some platforms the screws aren't interchangeable and damage will occur if a screw is forced onto the wrong hole.

Balance Brida:e: Start by removing the balance bridge screw. Use a screwdriver to pry up the bridge, not your tweezers. Tweezers will become damaged if not used prop­ erly and would eventually eject small parts. Once the bridge is loosened, use tweezers to lift it straight up and clear of the platform. It may be necessary to "wiggle" the balance until it comes loose. Protect the balance staff pivots at all times and if it is necessary to put the balance and bridge Balance and bridge in safe position down, place the bridge top side down with the balance up.

June 2004 • Horological Times 23 Prying up escape wheel bridge Rotatable regulator boot

Lifting escape wheel bridge straight up Special punch to press out hairspring stud Balance: Remove the balance from the bridge. The bal­ ance staff is at risk of becoming damaged while still at­ tached to the bridge. First, free the hairspring from the index pins. This example shows the style that has a rotat­ able regulator boot which allows the hairspring to be freed. Press out the hairspring stud using the special stake. Place the freed balance to the side.

Escape Wheel/Fork Bridge: Remove the escape wheel bridge screws and pry the bridge up using a screwdriver or by pushing against its "steady" pins from underneath. Pushing against the pins may not produce the control nec­ essary to avoid damage but it is important to use the method that offers the most confidence in the procedure. Pull the bridge straight up with tweezers so the fork and escape wheel pivots aren't bent or broken. Place the bridge, screws, fork, and escape wheel in their proper group. "Servicing a Platform: The Basics" will be continued. Hairspring stud freed from balance bridge 0

24 Horological Times • June 2004 BULLETIN AWCI Directors' BOARD E-mail Address Directory

NEW REQUEST Director AWl E-mail Address Ollie Baker Mainspring Winder Jack Kurdzionak: President jkurdzionak@ awi-net.org Frank Malicke, Flower Mound, TX, is looking for an instruction manual for an Ollie Baker Mainspring Winder. Jim Door: 1st Vice President jdoor@ awi-net.org Alice Carpenter: Secretary acarpenter@ awi-net.org ITEMS STILL NEEDED Mark Butterworth: Treasurer mbutterworth@ awi-net.org WaterWelder Torch Henry Frystak hfrystak@ awi-net.org David Lannom, Springfield, TN, is looking for an instruction manual for a WaterWelder Torch. Roland (Ron) Iverson riverson@ awi-net.org Robert D. Porter bporter@ awi-net.org Do you have information regarding this month's requests? Do James Sadilek [email protected] you need information about one of this month's responses? If so, send your information or requests to: Dennis Warner dwamer@ awi-net.org Horological Times Bulletin Board 701 Enterprise Drive Manuel Yazijian [email protected] Harrison, OH 45030-1696 Toll-Free: 1-866-367-2924, ext. 307 James Zimmerman jzimmerman@ awi-net.org Phone: (513) 367-9800 Glenn D. Gardner: Affiliate Chapter Director [email protected] Fax: (513) 367-1414 E-mail: [email protected] 0 Joseph Juaire: REC Director [email protected]

Tony Riggio: lAB Director [email protected]

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June 2004 • Horological Times 25 Visual Needs of Watch and Clockmakers Part 3

Dr. Joseph R. Panza Optometrist

This is the final part of a three-part article on the associated with lenses. These aberrations are related to visual needs of watch and clockmakers. The previous two surface characteristics, thickness, color, and lens edges. articles discussed eye health and critical vision function. The common names for these are: coma, curvature of This final article will review lens materials, aber­ field, spherical and chromatic aberration. rations and Ioupe selection. Several questions that will be Suffice it to say that reducing these aberrations addressed are: gives a more comfortable and precise optical performance. 1.) Lens materials and their comparative advantages? Multi-coated, aplanatic, achromatic lenses compensate for 2.) Lens aberrations and how to reduce or compen­ aberrations and may be worth the extra cost for the long sate for them? term visual result. Compensations for aberrations is one 3.) Loupe availability and selection criteria? of the primary reasons why some lou pes are more expen­ sive than others. Lens Materials Before making a decision about Ioupe selection, Lou pes some discussion on lens materials and surface optics is in Loupes are designed to magnify an object at a order. The three primary lens materials are glass, plastic, specific working distance. The power is the magnification and polycarbonate. Each material has pros and cons, and amount of the object. A 2x Ioupe makes an object appear comparative information will be useful for Ioupe twice as large as its normal size. The focal length or work­ selection. ing distance is the distance between the viewed object Some of the factors in deciding what type of lens and the lens. Clockmakers commonly use 2.25x binocular to use include: surface characteristics, thickness, weight, loupes at 8 inches whereas watchmakers may favor 3.5x scratch resistance, safety, cost, tint and coating capability, monocular loupes at 3 inches. The weight, field of view, type of mount, ease of use, and other variables. The fol­ comfort, ease of use, lens material, cost, and type of mount lowing table compares and contrasts features and high­ are other variables to consider when selecting a Ioupe. lights advantages of each material. A few generalizations concerning Ioupe selection Aberrations are: Aberrations are not material flaws, but are re­ 1.) If used over spectacle lenses, make sure the cor­ fractive deficiencies related to physical light transmission rective astigmatism and near lens is in place. through lenses. There are several types of aberrations

Lens Material Comparative Advantages Cost Safety Scratch Surface Thickness Tint/Coat Weight Resistant Optics Capability Glass X X X Plastic X X X Polycarbonate X X X X X

26 Horological Times • June 2004 2.) The stronger the power, the shorter the working able from dealers and distributors. The attached tables range and narrower the field. demonstrate power and working distance differences in 3.) With stronger power, the more critical the light monocular and binocular loupes from two major and stability required. manufacturers. 4.) Alignment, type of mount, comfort, and ease of use are equally as important as power and work­ Single Lens Spectacle Loupe ing distance. Power 5.) Monocular loupes are more effective in high pow­ Working Distance ers (3x to lOx) and binocular loupes are more 2.5x 4 inches applicable in low powers (l.Sx to 2.75x) when 3.5x 3 inches depth and longer working ranges are needed. 6.) Trial and error comparisons are more accurate 5x 2 inches than selecting from written information. 10x 1 inch

There are many varieties and forms of loupes available. They come in: hand held, stands, ocular, clip­ on, headband, single, and double spectacle forms. Mo­ Binocular Headband Loupe nocular versus binocular is a personal choice. Most ho­ Power Working Distance rologists use two to three different types of loupes de­ pending on the intended purpose. 1.75x 14 inches The power and working range varies among dif­ 2.25x 8 inches ferent manufacturers and types of loupes. Review tech­ 2.75x 6 inches nical information and try before you buy high price loupes. Clubs, organizations, trade shows, and demos are avail- 3.50x 4 inches

Keep your head above water

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TS5200 $1095.00

Test the water-resistance of watch cases with Bergeon. On the counter, this enables you to give the customer a quick and convincing demonstration of the water resistance of a watch. There is no danger of water getting inside the watch (assuming the instructions are followed). Pressure gauge range is 0-3 atmospheres. Diameter of opening: 64mm. Capacity: 2 watches

TS5555 $454.95

Dl: Twin City Supply 2230 Edgewood Avenue South ~,.,." www.tw1nc1tysupp.. I y.net Minneapolis, MN 55426-2823 Phone: 952.545.2725 Fax: 952.545.4715 • USA: 800.328.6009 Fax: 800.328.6001 4/04 HT June 2004 • Horological Times 27 Summary 2.) Behr Optical Manufacturing Co. Eye health, precise vision evaluation, and the op­ P.O. Box 191 timum loupe selection will make a major difference for Plymouth, W153073 the professional watch and clockmaker. Address your 920-893-1801 occupational visual needs with your local eye, vision, and email: behrloupes @earthlink.net optical professionals. Hopefully this series of articles will help to communicate, create awareness, and clarify your 3.) Carl Zeiss Surgical, Inc. options to give the best possible outcome to practice within One Zeiss Drive the horological profession. Thornwood, NY 10594 Loupes are available from all the major watch 1-888-773-2790 and clock supply distributors. Below are several major www.zeiss.com/loupes manufacturers and distributors. 4.) Donegan Optical Co. 1.) Bausch & Lomb World Headquarters P.O. Box 14308 One B & L Place Lenexa, KS 66285-4308 Rochester, NY 14601-2701 913-492-2500 1-800-452-6789 email: info@ doneganoptical.com www. bausch. com 0

Committee Help Wanted and Needed Your Board of Directors is seeking volunteers, from AWCI's membership, to serve on our committees for our next business year beginning after the annual meeting in August. Dedicated members, who serve on the various committees, provide guidance for our Institute and do a great deal to keep it operating smoothly throughout the year. Please examine the list of committees and their duties, select one or more than one for which you are qualified, and submit your resume to the Board in care of Lucy Fuleki by mail or e-mail so that you may be considered for a committee assignment. The resume should be brief and provide an outline of your qualifications to serve on the committee(s) you select.

FINANCE COMMITTEE: This committee, with the MEMBERSHIP COMMITTEE: Its duties are to treasurer as chairman, serves as the financial advisor to formulate programs to increase our membership. the Institute. PUBLICITY COMMITTEE: This committee will CONSTITUTION AND BYLAWS COMMITTEE: make our Institute more visible to persons in our indus­ This committee considers all changes to our operating try and to the public at large, while working as a sub­ documents to be certain they conform to all other parts committee of membership. of our Constitution and Bylaws. HONOR AWARDS COMMITTEE: This commit­ NOMINATING COMMITTEE: This committee is tee is responsible for making any and all recommenda­ responsible for seeking qualified candidates to run for tions to bestow special awards, while working as a sub­ the Board of Directors. committee of membership.

EDUCATION COMMITTEE: This committee's re­ STRATEGIC ACTION COMMITTEE: This sponsibility is the formulation and implementation of the committee's function is to formulate an overall plan, educational policies and programs of the Institute. stated briefly, to guide the Institute's long range plan­ ning. CERTIFICATION COMMITTEE: This committee has the duty of overseeing the certification of the Institute's membership as well as assuring that our cer­ tifications meet the current and future needs of the mar­ ketplace.

Please submit your resume by mail to Committee Assignments, c/o Lucy Fuleki, AWCI, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030-1696. They may also be sent to Lucy by e-mail at [email protected].

28 Horological Times • June 2004 Golden Triad Watchmakers

Guild Auction C LOCKSThe International Magazine tor Clock Collectors & Restorers

The Golden Triad Watchmakers Guild, under the REPAIR direction of the North Carolina Watchmakers Associa­ tion, will be holding its summer auction on Sunday, July RESTORATION 25th at the Holiday Inn Airport in Greensboro, NC. Doors CLOCKMAKING will open at 8:00a.m. to bring in merchandise or inspect what is already there. Auction will start at 12:00 noon and LAURIE last until all items have been sold. There is plenty of free parking and food is available before and during the auction. PENMAN Any item that could be used in the trade of watch repair, clock repair, jewelry work or bought or sold within ... and much these trades are legitimate items that can be brought to the auction. Anyone can bring items in to sell. It costs much more All this every month at a bargain price for AWl members: $65 $2.00 to get a buyer's/seller's number. The Golden Triad (normal price $79) for the t1rst year's subscription. Just fill in the Watchmakers Guild will charge 10% for any items sold. At form below and send it, along with a US$ check made out to 'Splat the end of the auction all buyers pay the GTWG for their Publishing Ltd', to Clocks Magazine, Elizabeth House, Royal purchases. In about three weeks GTWG will mail checks to Elizabeth Yard, Dalmeny EH29 9EN, UK. TeUfax: 044 131 331 the sellers for the items they sold less the 10% seller's fee. .3}~~:.~_!1!~i_!=_~u_b_s5~ip~~~~c}~~~-n;!~lf~~~-~~~.:------' The profits from this auction are used by the GTWG to con­ :First name ...... Last name ...... AWl N2 ...... I I tinue the training and education of its members. •Address ...... I For additional information contact Rick Dunnuck I I • • •• 00<000-0o000 - 000 0 0000 0 00~·000000 .... 0 ... 000000-U.Oo00000 0 00 ~ 00 .0U- ~ 00 000000 .. 0 .. 0 .L0000-0000o00000.000iL00 0 0 00.... 000000000~00000000o-0~00000-0000 at 336-674-2686, [email protected] or Scott I Lemons at 336-299-6934. : ...... Zipcode ...... Country ...... , I I I I :Telephone N2 ...... Email address ...... @...... : ·------· OTTO== JULES==;;;;;;;;; QUALITY WATCH & JEWELRY SUPPLIES FOR GENERATIONS FREI&BOREL SINCE 1930 Visit our Web Site Request a Horological 126 Second St., Oakland Ca. 94607 Shop On-Line for over 8,000 items Parts &

Supplies ot~ · IIU» .... 11 • -11 Phone 800-772-3456 IIW.IA'(Q~ ..... Catalog -=·.. ~ Fax 800-900-3734 !( http://www.ofrei.com I Go ~ ~ Address c? Today E-Mail [email protected] Watch Repair Tools, Parts and Supplies

The Best Tools from the Best Companies. We will work with you to supply you with hard to find tools and supplies. Bergeon 5500C Moebuis 9010 Case & Crystal Press Synt-A-Lube Reg.$159.00 Reg. $16.50 Sale $144.00 Sale $12.98

Just a sample selection of the items on Sale this month. Visit our web site or contact us for a complete list.

Orders Desk 1-800-772-3456 Tech & Info 510-832-0355 Fax 1-800-900-3734

June 2004 • Horological Times 29 AWCI has partnered with lntercorp, Inc., to offer a Horologics Insurance Program for Dealers and Collectors . • Coverage for your inventory on premises or stored in a bank vault, at shows and expositions, and in transit. ~ ' . '' 'll • State-of-the-art online program (www.shipandinsure.com) provides coverage for package shipments via Federal Express, ~~ 1() United Parcel, and the Postal Service. Discounts on shipping rates up to 40% when you use FedEx. No two dealers or collectors are alike, so coverage can be tailored to your specific needs. For more information, calllntercorp at 800.640.7601, or download the application form from the AWCI web site at www.awi-net.org. ih tercOrp .Nc lnStJrance Progra m Managers 1438-F West Main Street, Ephrata, PA 17522-1345 • Phone: 717.721.3500 • Fax: 717.721.3515

American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute is offering to members Health & Benefits Solution Programs Utilize the buying power of AWl

• Health Insurance-Individual & Group • Long-Term Care Insurance-up to 15% Savings • Life Insurance-up to 30% Savings • Disability Income • Criticallllness • Cancer Policy & Accident Policy Plans not available in all states. Plans may vary by state.

Receive enhanced insurance benefits for yourself, your family, or your employees (both full and part-time)!

Contact us now for a free consultation: AWl Health & Benefit Solutions Programs 6319 W. 11 Oth Street Overland Park, KS 66211 call us at 888-450-3040 or 913-341-2868 or visit us at www.associationpros.com Search 'AWl' or email us at help @associationpros.com

30 Horological Times • June 2004 New Members Zantech's compressor system has a unique dual trigger action that is capable of spraying dry filtered air, as well as PlastiCLEAN"'solvent. Safely California Missouri dissolve dry oils and other contaminants Clarke, Austyn-Union City, CA Schmitt, Brian-Springfield, MO (without disassembly of the gear train), Gamino, Ernesto B.-Hayward, CA all with the ease of a foot switch Gascon, Dan-Carlsbad, CA New York activated system that is quiet enough for Ludwig, Klaus A. 11-Carlsbad, CA Hammersley, Stephen-Patterson, NY a retail environment. The cost of cleaning one movement with the Orwell, Mark-Santa Clara, CA Jacobson, Philip--Flushing, NY Zantech compressor system averages only 10 cents per movement! Colorado Pennsylvania Kusumoto, Frank S.-Denver, CO Gordon, Chester-Dillsburg, PA Kit includes: McKinley, Daniel L.-Thornton, CO* • Dual-Action Spray Gun Pollok, Mallory-Craig, CO Texas • Qt. PlastiCLEAN''solvent Shurts, Anthony W.-Bayfield, CO Berman, Daniel-Ft. Worth, TX* • 2 oz and 3/4 oz Jar with cover Schwartz, David-Wimberley, TX • Pair Movement Grippers Florida • Airbrush Holder Wise, Bruce S.-Pensacola, FL * Virginia • Compressor Air-Hose Shelor, John-Madison Heights, VA • In-line Moisture Filter Georgia 30.650C (Quiet Compressor & AC Hockenbery, Steve--Duluth, GA Washington foot Switch Included) $499.95 Luong Chang-Seattle, WA Illinois Bowman, Alan-East Peoria, IL Canada McMahon, David C.-Burlington, Indiana Ontario Smith, Buster-Cambridge City, IN International Minnesota Maher, Declan-Galway, Ireland Christian, Holly K.-Minneapolis, MN McLuskey, Kenneth-Welling, Kent, United Danner, Ken-Saint Paul, MN Kingdom Schultz, Pamela-Hinckley, MN Shannon, James W.-Saint Paul, MN Sorenson, Rachael H.-Saint Paul, MN *AWCI welcomes back these individuals Syvertsen, David E.-Saint Paul, MN who have chosen to reinstate their mem- Simply the best cleaning solution for quartz watch movements bership. 0 13 fl oz Aerosol Can $16.95 1 qt Bulk Liquid $24.95 AWl's Fiscal Year End

AWl's fiscal year end is June 30, 2004. Those parties who have provided goods and services to AWl up to and including June 30, 2004 must submit those claims or invoices to AWl no later than July 15, 2004. This includes chapter and individual expense reimbursement claims. Claims or invoices received after that date will be subject to additional review by our account­ ing firm. They are also subject to not being paid by AWI. Thank you in advance for your consideration and attention to this matter.

June 2004 • Horological Times 31 From the Workshop

Jack Kurdzionak, CW

You Are Invited assembled in another country) nickel-plated Do you have a solution to a watch or variant of these movements (ETA calibers clock repair problem that you want to share 955.114 and 956.114) are discontinued. These with our membership? Do you have a ques­ were the lower cost versions and they are no tion about a repair problem you would like to longer available. ask? I invite you to participate in this column The new knowledge included the fol­ with your suggestions, questions, and com­ lowing. All of ETA's mechanical movements ments. It's easy. Just e-mail me at AWCI are Swiss made, and they are available in many or write using the various finishes. Quartz movements can either old standby known as the postal service. You be Swiss made, or made with Swiss parts in can even fax me at 513-367-1414. another country. All current production Swiss I will do my best to help you help the made quartz movements are gold plated and membership. By sharing your questions and marked VS. Quartz movements made from suggestions all of our members can benefit Swiss parts, assembled in another country, are from our combined knowledge and experi­ nickel-plated and NOT MARKED VS. ETA ence. The ideas, tools, techniques and prod­ has developed a movement, caliber 280.702, ucts presented in this column are suggested which is set to time without a stem and crown. by the author and contributing members and The movement is equipped with a magnetic are not endorsed by any manufacturer, sup­ switch to set the hours and minutes from the plier, advertiser or AWCI itself. back of the case with a small magnet encased in the tip of the leather watchstrap. The expe­ Experienced Watchmakers Learn a rienced watchmakers in the class commented Few New Tricks that this was back to the future as they re­ Maybe it is true that an old dog can­ membered that the early Pulsar LED digital not learn new tricks, but don't ever say that watches were set in a similar fashion. an experienced watchmaker cannot learn a Mr. Betti also pointed out that the ter­ few new things. AWCI's friend and colleague, minals labeled M on ETA quartz watch cir­ Alessandro Betti, of ETA presented ETA's cuits indicate the points where the motor coil basic quartz (A1) watch repair class this past joins the circuit board. Also, the Rtf (reset/ April at its Training Center in Grenchen, Swit­ test) terminal on the circuit has two functions. zerland. Several experienced watchmakers If the Rtf is connected to the negative termi­ were there to attend this class and, regardless nal of the cell or variable power supply, it will of their level of experience, all left the class put the watch train into test (T) mode causing knowing more than they did before. the gear train to rapidly tum. If the supply volt­ During the class, these watchmakers age is gradually lowered, this test point can be cleared up some old misconceptions and used to check the lower working limit of the gained some new knowledge. As for the mis­ movement and therefore, its operating condi­ conceptions, the ETA calibers 955.112 and tion. The same Rtf test point is also used to 956.112 are STILL in production in Switzer­ reset the circuit if the point is connected to the land. These movements are gold plated and positive terminal on the circuit. Many watch­ are marked V8. Only the (Swiss parts, makers have noticed that when a new cell is

32 Horological Times • June 2004 installed in a watch with a sweep second hand, the sec­ ond hand moves in four-second increments for about a minute. By touching the tweezers' tips to the positive side of the cell and the reset point simultaneously, the watch will immediately run properly. These examples are just a few of the new tricks that some experienced watchmak­ ers learned from the class. Jack Kurdzionak

The Twenty-First Century Repair Shop AWCI recently presented a new program, Twenty­ First Century Watch making, to the members of the Wisconsin Horological Society (WHS) at their recent con­ vention in Reedsburg, WI. Many AWCI members are concerned about their future as independent watch or clock makers. They ask many questions about parts availability, but just as important as spare parts, they should be asking things such as: How should my shop appear? Do I have adequate lighting? What type of floor covering is best? What is the best color to paint the walls of my shop? What is considered basic shop equipment today? How can I organize my shop for better efficiency? What kind of spare parts inventory is necessary? There is no book available that has answers to these questions. Our membership needs answers to these basic questions. During the heyday of American watch and clock manufacturing that ended in the mid 1900s, this needed information was widely available. The factories and numerous schools around the country helped us by setting basic standards for all to use. Unfortunately, those days are gone and we need information that is relevant to today's marketplace, rather that that of a bygone era. With this in mind, AWCI prepared the program for WHS. The program focused upon the recommended tops to allow a quick clean up of the floor. No dust can basic standards of organization, equipment, and orderli­ accumulate on a floor that is regularly cleaned. None of ness of a watch or clock repair shop found in factory ser­ these workshops have carpeted floors. In addition to the vice facilities, both in Europe and in the USA. Each watch dirt and dust carpets hold, they continually release fibers and clock company has its own set of standards that it to contaminate a watch or clock movement. Finally, car­ seeks in a repair shop. These are not the recommenda­ pets can harbor dust mites and other allergens to make tions of any one company but they are a common sense the allergic workers in the shop uncomfortable. Please average of what is now considered standard practice in examine the photos of two workshop floors. One is the factory shops servicing current production, quality watches ETA classroom workshop and the other is in a non-fac­ and clocks. Let us begin from the ground up, so to speak. tory shop. The ETA shop floor is not fancy, just neat and The Shop Floor clean. There is nothing on the floor to trip upon or collect The shop floor is the workshop's base. The fac­ dust. It is easy to clean and maintain. Parts accidentally tory service centers, both here and in Switzerland all have dropped on the floor can be rapidly located. The other a resilient tile floor, light in color. The floor is kept clean shop's floor is an accident waiting to happen. The floor is and waxed. Each day the floor is swept and damp mopped. doing the job of a storage cabinet and trashcan. Drop a Maintenance is easy for these shops because they do not part on this floor and it will never be found. The two pho­ allow the floor to be used for storage of any kind. No tos speak for themselves. An easy to clean, neat floor is boxes, bags, etc. can be left on the floor. At the end of basic for a quality workshop. each day, the benches are cleared, work in progress and Jack Kurdzionak tools are put away, the chairs are placed on the bench 0

June 2004 • Horological Times 33 Affiliate Chapter Report

Glenn D. Gardner, CMW The meeting is coming quickly but Swiss. Keeping equipment up to date and a there is time for you to reserve your place at clean shop is very important. Next Jack talked the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers about including water testing with a watch cell Institute's annual meeting. I suggest you call installation on all watches which say they are your affiliated chapter president and ask who water resistant. Of course there would be a is representing your group at the convention. small charge added on to the cell price. If they don't test, then you can tell the person and ask This month I'll tell you about the Wis­ if he wants you to go further into making it consin Horological Society's 69th Annual Con­ water resistant. Of course there is another vention. We get together on Friday night and charge for that service. have a slide show of some sort. This year we In the afternoon, we had Lloyd had Jeff Forslund show us slides of his trip to Larish. Lloyd is from what I can tell the most Switzerland with Ron DeCorte. This took experienced tower clock horologist in the place last fall and included some of the finest states. Lloyd is from Fairbault, Minnesota, craftsmen in the industry. The slides showed where he runs his business, House of Clocks. what machinery they used to hand make He has been all over the world and has seen watches. Jeff was amazed how they welcomed most everything. His slide presentation was them into their homes and shops letting the very informative and showed us how different group admire some of their finest creations. each clock was. We saw how he would take After that we got down to business them apart and build new wheels and shafts to and the hospitality suite was open. As most fit as the old ones were worn out or even gone. horologists know, that is when we find out how Lloyd also makes and installs sidewalk clocks. to solve our problems or help somebody else He made one with a Seth Thomas movement out with a problem. This stays open into the for an old friend who died-Seth Thomas the early morning hours. VI. He made this from scratch in his garage Saturday morning AWCI president with help of a metalsmith who cast the metal Jack Kurdzionak had a presentation called pieces. "Are you ready for a Swiss visit?" The pro­ There were about 25 to 30 horologists gram was very informative on what the Swiss in attendance and all had a good and profitable require of repair shops. Jack has been to time. Next month we will highlight the Min­ Switzerland for instructions many times and nesota Watch and Clockmakers groups' knows first hand what is expected by the convention. 0

SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL AFFILIATE CHAPTER For information on forming a new chapter, call 1-866-367-2924, ext. 304

34 Horological Times • June 2004 WATCHMAKERS/CLOCKMAKERS ASSOCIATION OF OHIO

58th ANNUAL MEETING & CONVENTION

JULY 23rd & 24th, 2004 in the heart of Ohio's Amish Country at the Carlisle Village Inn of Walnut Creek

4949 Walnut St, Walnut Creek, OH 44687 call 330-893-3636 for reservations For information and registration contact Mark A. Baker, P.O. Box 292, Damascus, OH 44619 (330) 537-3939 or e-mail [email protected]

.J $22.'i0- One Ye:H Cl $19.50- One Year '.J $42.00-- Twmpany Name ----­ Typ,, oi BusincS'----- Type uf Business ----- THE MAINE EVENT The AWCI 2004 annual meeting and convention will be held at the Sheraton South Portland Hotel in South Portland, Maine from August 5-8, 2004. Bring the family on a vacation to Maine, while increasing your knowledge of horology. Premier horological presenters include: James Moss from Littleton, Massachusetts; Richard Ketchen from Carlisle, Massachusetts; George Collord from Portland, Maine; Tamara Houk, from LaGrange, lllinois, and Richard and Linda Balzer from Freeport, Maine. Prices for the meeting and for trade show vendors will remain the same as last year. The hotel is adjacent to the Maine Mall (largest shopping center in New England). A free shuttle will take you two miles from the South Portland Airport to the hotel. Mark your calendars and plan to attend! Join us for this summer meeting at the shore. We'll see you for the "Maine Event." Do we have a surprise for you! The Friday Night ELM Trust Dinner, also the same price as last year, will include a trolley car ride, a boat ride to House Island, a tour of a civil war fort, a display of, and presentation on, antique watches and clocks, AND a lobsterfest. It is time to get out of your trap and experience something new. This event is limited to the first 100 applicants and is being sponsored by Rolex so that your donation money will go to the Trust. For hotel reservations call toll free 800-325-3535 and ask for the American Watchmakers­ Clockmakers block of rooms at a rate of $89.00 per night. The cost of an upgraded room is $15.00 for a Starwood Preferred Guest room, and $30 for a Club room. A Starwood room has bottled water, upgraded amenities, a robe and turndown chocolates. The club room includes the same features as the Preferred room does except it comes with a evening reception and complimentary breakfast. Sheraton South Portland Hotel is located at 363 Main Mall Road, South Portland, Maine 04106. Direct hotel telephone number is 207-775-6161. Fax 207-772- 1267. Web Site: Sheraton.com/southportland Deadline for hotel reservations is July 15, 2004. MAINE TOURIST INFO: 1-888-MAINE-11

AWCI44thANNUALMEETINGAGENDA Saturday, August 7, 2004 Thursday, August 5, 2004 (Note: No Board Meeting on Saturday) 9:00 a.m.-Noon Research & Education Council (REC) 8:00 am.-9:00 a.m. Registration 9:00 p.m.-4:00p.m. The Chronometer Club Technical Seminar 8:00am-9:30a.m. James Moss - Cleaning Solutions­ Tamara Houk, Owner and Manager of difference between repair, restoration Swiss Service Center in LaGrange, IL. and conservation Six-hour seminar on repair, adjusting George Collard ill -A Photographic Tour of and servicing of chronograph movements American Waltham Watch Factory's Works (members & applicants only) Richard Ketchen - Tools of the Trade, Noon-1:30p.m. Lunch on your own Past and Present & 4:00p.m.-5:00p.m. The Chronometer Club Business Meeting 9:45 a.m.-11:15 a.m. Richard Linda Balzer- Life in the Towers (members & applicants only) after Seth Thomas and Howard (tower 3:00p.m.-6:00p.m. Registration clock restorations) Sheraton South Portland Hotel Tamara Houk- Job Track- Computerizing 6:30p.m.-7:30p.m. New Member Reception- hosted by Your Shop Membership Committee John Sorriento - Horological Confections 7:30p.m.-10:00p.m. Welcome Reception 10:00 a.m.-4:00p.m. Trade Fair 8:30 p.m.-lO:OOp.m. Affiliate Chapter Orientation 11:30am.-1:30p.m. Luncheon Buffet 1: 30p.m.-3:00p.m. George Collord ill -A Photographic Tour of Friday, August 6, 2004 American Waltham Watch Factory's Works 8:00 a.m.-9:00am. Registration Tour of Balzer Clockworks in Freeport Sheraton South Portland Hotel Tamara Houk- Job Track- Computerizing 8:00 a.m.-Noon Affiliate Chapter Meeting Your Shop Ron Price, Price-Less Ads, Keynote Speaker John Sorriento - Horological Confections Subject: New AWCI Website 3:15 p.m.-4:45p.m. James Moss - Cleaning Solutions - lO:OOa.m.-ll:OOa.m. J.M. Dodson Perpetuation Fund difference between repair, restoration Meeting and conservation ll:OOa.m.-Noon Industry Advisory Board (lAB) Meeting Richard Ketchen - Tools of the Trade, Noon-1 :30 p.m. Lunch on your own Past and Present 1:30 p.m.-5:30p.m. AWCI Board of Directors Meeting Tour of Balzer Clockworks in Freeport 6:15p.m. Trolley car leaves for ELM-Trust Dinner 6:00p.m.-7:00p.m. President's Reception 9:30p.m. Trolley car returns to Sheraton 7:00 p.m.-9:30p.m. Dinner Buffet & Awards Program Sunday, August 8, 2004 8:00 a.m.-9:00a.m. Breakfast Buffet 9:00am.-Noon AWCI Board of Directors Meeting

36 Horological Times • June 2004 r------, AWCI's 44th Annual Meeting - August 5-8, 2004 I Registration Deadline: July 14, 2004 (Please type or print all information requested) Name :. ______AWCI Member No. :. ______Company/Affiliate Chapter :. ______City:______State/Province ______Zip/Postal Code _____ Phone: Fax :. ______E-mail :. ______Spouse's Name:. ______Guest's Name :. ______Child#1: ______Age: _____ Child#2: ______Age: _____ Child#3: ______Age: _ ____ Registration Fees Received by July 1 After July 1 VVeekend Package* AWCIMember __ @$205.00 __ @$255.00 Nonmember __ @$255.00 __ @$305.00 Spouse/Guest __ @$100.00 __ @$150.00 Children (under 12) __ @$ 45.00 __ @$ 95.00 Saturday Package** AWCIMember __ @$165.00 __ @$215.00 Spouse/Guest __ @$ 65.00 __ @$115.00 Education Package*** AWCIMember __ @$125.00 __ @$175.00

I plan to attend the tour of Balzer Clockworks __ (No charge. Limited to the first 20 responses.)

Friday Night ELM Trust Dinner __ @$ 60.00 (Boat ride, fort tour and lobsterfest. Limited to the first 100 responses.)

Number of ELM Raffle ticket(s) __ @$25.00 each __ First prize, win a week at the Kurdzionak's cottage in the White Mountains; second prize, free convention regis­ tration; and third prize, one-year free AWCI Regular Membership [Void where prohibited by law. This raffle is being conducted according to the laws of the State of Ohio and proceeds go to the ELM-Trust.] Total _____ Should we be aware of any personal health issues you have? ______Do you prefer vegetarian meals?------•weekend Package Includes: Thursday: Round Table Reception; Friday: Continental Breakfast, Affiliates and Board Meetings; Saturday: Continental Breakfast, Technical Presentations, Luncheon , & Dinner/Awards Program; Sunday: Breakfast Buffet ..Saturday Package Includes: Saturday: Continental Breakfast, Technical Presentations, Luncheon & Dinner/Awards Program ...Education Package Includes: Saturday: Continental Breakfast, Technical Presentations & Luncheon Note: Program changes will be announced as they occur.

[J Check [J American Express [J Discover [J MasterCard [J Visa Nameooearo ______Account#·______ExpirationDate ____ Signature ______

Please make checks payable to AWCI. All fees must be paid in advance; credit cards will be processed upon receipt. Payment in U.S. Funds, drawn on a U.S. Financial Institution. No refunds for cancellations after July 15, 2004

1 AWCI's 44 h Annual Meeting 701 Enterprise Drive Harrison, OH 45030 Toll Free 1-866-367-2924, ext. 301 Fax: 513-367-1414 E-mail: [email protected] L------~ June 2004 • Horological Times 37 r------~ AWCI'S 44TH ANNUAL MEETING AUGUST 5-8, 2004 VENDOR REGISTRATION DOOR PRIZE - ELM TRUST DONATION

The American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute would like to invite your participation in the AWCI 44th Annual Meeting & Convention at the Sheraton South Portland Hotel in South Portland, Maine. Exhibitors may reserve a table for $225 for Saturday, August 7, 2004 from 10 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. This will also entitle two people to have lunch and dinner with the convention attendees. Deadline for vendor registration is July 1•t, 2004. Company Name ______Address City------State ______Zip------Fax ______Phone ------E-Mail ______

0 Please reserve a table for us to exhibit during the AWCI 44th Annual Meeting. The following people will be attending: Name Title ------Name Title ------Name Title ------0 A door prize will be sent to AWCI for the drawings held during the Trade Fair and at the close of the convention. This entitles our company to be listed as a convention sponsor.

The generous financial support of persons interested in preserving the past and building the future of horology augments the AWCI-ELM Charitable Trust. Your donation will contribute to the education of the next generation of watchmakers and clockmakers or to maintaining the historical record of the craft. Please accept this donation of $ ______to the AWCI-ELM Charitable Trust Payment Method: D Check D American Express D Discover D MasterCard D Visa Total ____ Name on Card ______

Account # Expiration Date Signature ------L------~ AWCI'S 44th ANNUAL MEETING Sponsors: • Rolex • Seiko Door prize donated by • Swatch Group Hermie Black Forest. • International Dial Co., Inc. The drawing for door prizes will be held • Eckcells during the Vendor's • Merritt's Antiques Trade Fair luncheon. • S. LaRose • Hermie Black Forest Exhibitors: • Chelsea Clock Company • Eckcells • Fixed In Time Clock Repair • Once Upon a Time Clock Shop • Witschi Electronics U.S.A., Inc. Door prize donated by Seiko

38 Horological Times • June 2004 AWCI-Educational, Library & Museum Charitable Trust Fund raising Raffle

WIN A 7 NIGHT STAY AT A YEAR-ROUND TWO-BEDROOM VACATION HOME IN THE BEAUTIFUL WHITE MOUNTAINS OF NEW HAMPSHIRE (AN APPROXIMATE VALUE OF $1,250). ONLY 100 TICK­ ETS WILL BE SOLD. $25.00 PER TICKET.

RAFFLE OPEN TO CURRENT AWCI MEMBERS ONLY

LIMIT OF 4 RAFFLE CHANCES PER MEMBER

First Prize: One full week in a tw~bedroom home in the White Mountains of New Hampshire.

Second Prize: Free meeting/conference registration, excluding transportation, hotel accommodations, and The Trust's Fundraising Dinner (an approximate value of $250).

Third Prize: A One-Year AWCI Regular Membership (a $74 value).

The AWCI-ELM Charitable Trust is pleased to announce that Jack Kurdzionak, the President of AWCI, and his wife Terry, the current membership chairman, are offering the use of their vacation home in New Hampshire for one week as a first place prize in the AWCI-ELM Charitable Trust's fundraising raffle. The home is located in the White Mountain town of Campton, NH, and is within easy driving distance to all White Mountain attractions. It is also a one-hour drive to Mt. Washington, the tallest peak in the Northeast, and a two-hour drive to the seaside city of Portland, Maine. The lucky winner can use the home immediately before or after the AWCI annual meeting, which will take place from Aug. 5-8, 2004, in South Portland, ME. Or, if the winner would like to use the home during the "leaf-peeper" season, or for a winter ski vacation, he/ she may do so as long as prior arrangements are made with the Kurdzionaks. The drawing will be held on July 1, 2004. The winning names for all three prizes will be selected by an individual who is not employed by, or affiliated with, AWCI or the AWCI- ELM Charitable Trust in any way. Winners will be notified via the telephone no later than July 3, 2004, by Gary Richards, the Director of Development, for theAWCI-ELM Charitable Trust. Tickets can be purchased one of three ways. You can send a check (i.e., made out to the AWCI-ELM Charitable Trust) to the AWCI office with your AWCI convention registration form or by checking the box that is on your merchandise ordering form along with your credit card number or your attached check. You can also call the office directly and purchase tickets with your credit card. If you use this option, please call Heather Kyde at 1-866-367-2924, ext. 301, and she will process your transaction for you. We look forward to hearing from you and wish the best of luck to all of you who choose to participate in this exciting raftle.

VOID WHERE PROHIBITED BY LAW THIS RAFFLE IS BEING CONDUCTED ACCORDING TO THE LAWS OF THE STATE OF OHIO

June 2004 • Horological Times 39 AWCI-ELM Trust Update News That Is Worth Your "Time"

Gary Richards, Director of Development AWCI-ELM Charitable Trust

In the April2004 edition of Horologi­ will be selected by an individual who is not cal Times, the AWCI-Educational, Library & employed by, or affiliated with, AWCI or the Museum Charitable Trust (the AWCI-ELM AWCI-ELM Charitable Trust in any way. Win­ Charitable Trust) announced that it was hav­ ners will be notified via the telephone no later ing a fund-raising raffle, with the first prize than July 2, 2004. being a 7-night stay at Jack and Terry Tickets are still available for purchase Kurdzionak's two-bedroom vacation home in and as of May 4, 2004, thirty tickets have been the beautiful White Mountains of New Hamp­ sold. However, ticket quantities are limited, so shire (an approximate value of $1,250). Ac­ if you would still like to purchase a ticket or cording to Jack Kurdzionak, President of two or possibly even four, you still have time AWCI, and his wife Terry, AWCI's current to do so. Tickets can be purchased one of three membership chairman, their vacation home is ways. You can send a check (made out to the located in the quaint little town of Campton, AWCI-ELM Charitable Trust) to the AWCI New Hampshire, and is within easy driving office with your AWCI convention registra­ distance to all the White Mountain attractions, tion form or by checking the box that is on including Mt. Washington, the tallest peak in your merchandise ordering form along with the Northeast. Their vacation home is also a your credit card number or your attached two-hour drive to the seaside city of Portland, check. You can also call the AWCI office di­ Maine, where AWCI's Annual Meeting will rectly and purchase tickets with your credit be held from August 5-8, 2004. The winner of card. If you use this option, please call Heather this prize can use the home immediately be­ Kyde at 1-866-367-2924, ext. 301, and she will fore or after AWCI's Annual Meeting. Or, the process your transaction for you. lucky winner may opt to use the home during All proceeds go directly to the AWCI­ "leaf peeper" season or even for a winter ski ELM Charitable Trust, which is a not-for-profit vacation, just as long as prior arrangements organization that serves as the philanthropic have been made with the Kurdzionaks. branch of AWCI. So if you haven't already The raffle is open to current AWCI done so, purchase a raffle ticket today while members only and there is a limit of four raffle they are still available and being sold. You may chances per member. The raffle will also fea­ just walk away the winner of a 7-night stay in ture a second and a third prize, with the sec­ this charming vacation home in the middle of ond prize being free AWCI meeting/confer­ the White Mountains of New Hampshire. Even ence registration, an approximate value of $250. if you don't win this 7 -night vacation home first This does not include, however, transportation, prize package, you can still be assured that hotel accommodations, and admission to the your raffle ticket purchase will directly benefit AWCI-ELM Charitable Trust's Fund-raising the AWCI-ELM Charitable Trust. We look Dinner. Third prize is a one-year AWCI regu­ forward to hearing from you and wish the best lar membership, which is a $74 value. of luck to all of you who have chosen to par­ The drawing will be held on July 1, ticipate in this exciting raffle. 2004. The winning names for all three prizes 0

40 Horological Times • June 2004 FRIENDS OF THE AWCI-ELM CHARITABLE TRUST - 2004

You can make a difference for the AWCI-ELM Charitable Trust's educational efforts, resource library and History of lime Museum by becoming either a friend, supportive friend, sustaining friend, or a patron of our organization. The AWCI-ELM Charitable Trust is a charitable organization exempt from taxation under the 501 (c)3 code of the Internal Revenue Service. Your membership and contributions to the AWCI-ELM Trust are deductible as charitable contributions for federal income tax purposes to the extent provided by law. We value your support and do not take your contributions for granted. In addition to helping our organization and its History of lime Museum and Library, you will also receive the following:

Options ($25- $1000+)

Supportive Sustaining Patron of the Friend ($25) Friend ($50) Friend ($100+) Trust ($1,000+)

Thank You Letter Thank You Letter Thank You Letter Thank You Letter

Quarterly Newsletter Quarterly Newsletter Quarterly Newsletter Quarterly Newsletter

Name Recognition Name Recognition Name Recognition Name Recognition In Our Newsletter In Our Newsletter In Our Newsletter In Our Newsletter

A Membership A Membership A Membership Certificate Certificate Certificate

Complimentary Complimentary Coffee Mug Coffee Mug

Elements of Clock & Watch Work (Reproduced Copy of 1766 Horological Book) or The Seiko Corporation of America's hardback book A Journey in Time: The Remarkable Story of Seiko r------, I If you are interested in becoming a friend, supporting friend, sustaining friend or a patron of the AWCI-ELMI !Charitable Trust and its History of Time Museum, please make your checks payable to: AWCI-ELM Charitable! !Trust and send to 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, Ohio, 45030. Thank you for your consideration and support. 1 I 0 Friend ($25) D Supportive Friend ($50) D Sustaining Friend ($100+) D Patron of the Trust ($1 ,000+) I I I !Name I !Address I I I I City State Zip/Postal Code Country 1 I Phone E-mail Date I L------~ June 2004 • Horological Times 41 Industry News

Vibrograf U.S.A. Corp. Introduces more efficiently than in the past," said is facing challenges in Washington on the Poseidon LT-100 Harry Hillson, President of trade issues and in the states on envi­ Mr. Joseph D. Presti, President Batt-Tronic. Batt-Tronic will celebrate ronmental issues." He added that, "It of Vibrograf U.S.A. Corp. announced their 30th anniversary next year as is essential that we continue to work the introduction of the Poseidon LT-1 00 America's first full line battery with retail jewelers to prevent state leg­ Dry Water Proof Checker that tests distributor. islatures from banning button-cell bat­ watches to 10 Bar using pressure and teries in watches that contain trace vacuum. After years of research amounts of mercury. Retailers are Greiner Vibrografhas developed a new American Watch Association already doing an outstanding job of testing system that offers the highest Elects New Officers recycling those batteries." accuracy on all watches. Tests are The American Watch Associa­ automatic and programable and results tion recently elected Walter Fischer, may be printed on a seperate tape. Chairman of Rolex Watch U.S.A, as Vibrograf U.S.A. Corp. Introduces Bright color display prompts the opera­ its Chairman of the Board succeeding the Elma Motion Line of Automatic tor during use. Ronald Luino. Watch Winders For further information contact: The Association named the fol­ Mr. Joseph D. Presti, President Mr. Joseph D. Presti, President, lowing officers: Walter Fischer (Rolex) of Vibrograf U.S.A. Corp. announced Vibrograf U.S.A. Corp., 504 Cherry - Chairman; Efraim Grinberg the introduction of the Elma Motion Lane, Floral Park, New York 11001; (Movado) - First Vice President; Watch Winders for automatic watches. (516) 437-8700. Daniel Lalonde (LVMH) - Second This new line builds on the 40 years of Vice President; Stacie Orloff (Corum) elma experience in supplying watch - Treasurer; Michael Kaplan (Rocket winders for the watch industry. Mod­ Jewelry Box) - Secretary. els that wind 2, 4, or 6 watches all fea­ In accepting the chairmanship, ture Swiss pear wood cabinets and low Mr. Fischer stated, "These are impor­ noise- long life motors. The latest elec­ tant times for the watch industry which tronic circuitry is powered by internal

Batt-Tronic Corp. Has Relocated Batt-Tronic Corp. has relo­ cated to new facilities at 60 N. Harrison Ave., Suite 35-36, Congers NY 10920. The toll free ordering line remains as 800-431-2828 and fax is 888-BATT-FAX (888-228-8329). The local telephone number is now 845-267-3700andfax is 845-267-4500. " We have consolidated our inventory into one warehouse and our customer service specialists have easier access to our inventory and shipping manag­ ers. This allows us to provide our cus­ tomers with all their battery needs even

42 Horological Times • June 2004 batteries or an AC adapter. Elma internal temperature of the movement. The motto of this new family motion winders are for the watch These two signals are fed to the IC, speaks for itself: High Precision-High owner who appreciates only the which analyzes and checks them. The Performance - High Reliability. highest quality. IC regulates the motor pulses (inhibi­ Each thermo-compensated For further information contact: tion) according to the information given movement will undergo the extraordi­ Mr. Joseph D. Presti, President, by the thermometer so that the work­ narily stringent tests of the Swiss Offi­ Vibrograf U.S.A. Corp., 504 Cherry ing precision is not affected by tem­ cial Chronometer Testing Institute, ac­ Lane, Floral Park, New York 11001; perature. This is known as the thermo­ cording to the norm COSC 2001. This (516) 437-8700. compensation principle. imparts exceptional added value to the A thermo-compensated quartz finished watches of ETA's customers movement is approximately 20 times and allows them to use the exclusive ETA SA: Welcome to the World of more precise than a standard quartz «Certified Chronometer» label, once Thermo-Compensated Quartz movement, since its precision tolerance the tests have been successfully Chronometers is below ± 10 seconds a year. passed. Backed by over 200 years of The calibers of ETA's new Thanks to this extremely high watchmaking experience, ETA SA, a Thermoline family offer a wide range precision, the end customer can be sure company of the Swatch Group, has de­ of designs and functions; calibers with that he will not need to adjust his watch veloped a complete family of thermo­ three hands and a calendar (7%'" ETA more than once every three years. compensated quartz movements, 956.152- 8%'" ETA 956.652- IOYz'" For further information, please whose precision guarantees success in ETA 955.452- 11 Yz'" ETA 955.652) in contact Mr. Dominique Boizard, Hall every test performed by the Swiss versions with different diameters, an 5, Stand COS; Phone ++41161 699 45 Official Chronometer Testing Institute analog chronograph (13 14'" ETA 24, Fax ++41/61 699 45 26 or (COSC). The boundaries of precision 251.232), two multifunctional analog­ ETA SA Manufacture Horlogere are being pushed back still further! The digital chronographs (9% '"x 11 Yz'" Suisse,Marketing-Sales, new family comprising the calibers ETA 988.352- 131)1"' ETA E20.341), Bahnhofstrasse 9, CH-2540 Grenchen 7%'"ETA956.152; 8%'"ETA956.652; and two calibers with three hands and Switzerland; Phone++41/32 655 2619, IOYz'" ETA 955.452; 9%'"x 11 Yz'" an eternal calendar (11 Yz'" ETA Fax ++ 41132 655 71 74, E-mail: ETA 988.352; 11 Yz'" ETA 955.652; 252.511- ETA 252.611). etamarketing@ eta.ch ETA 252.511 - ETA 252.611; 1314'" ETA 251.232 and ETA E20.341 bears the name «THERMOLINE», which stands for very high precision. In-depth studies have proved that the internal temperature variations of a quartz movement influence the working precision of a timepiece. Faced with this problem, ETA SA en­ gineers have developed a thermo-com­ pensation system which, thanks to a thermometer, is able to electronically correct the rate variation of the watch caused by temperature differences.

What is thermo-compensation? The quartz provides the time base (frequency) for the integrated cir­ cuit (IC). A thermometer detects the

June 2004 • Horological Times 43 ATMOS Classified POLISH PIVOTS IN AS Service & Repair LITTLE AS 5-7 SEC. • 2-year Warranty on Labor & Parts f11'S SH> !!ifN~=LAT HS Fast Turnaround • Best Price • Best Bet 1\\UC HHA.!(f]IS a Advertising MORGAN CLOCK CO. CLOCKMASTER, INC. 80~805-2220 9-15 CST MORGANPIVOTPOUSHER.COM Regulations & Rates 2537 S. Brentwood St. Louis, MO 63144 (314) 968-1010 Ads are payable in advance 90¢ per word, Toll Free 800-837-1545 ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE $1.00 per word in bold type. Classified dis­ We are Factory Authorized Service for: play ads are $40.00 per column inch, 2W' • VIBROGRAF & PORTESCAP wide. Ads are not commissionable or dis­ countable. The publisher may, at the • TICK-0-PRINT & L&R CUT YOUR OWN WATCH GASKETS We service all makes of ultrasonics, all makes of watch rate publisher's sole discretion and for any rea­ recorders, and related equipment. 25 years experience. son and without notice, decline to publish or Never order another useless assortment. republish any ad, in which case any fees Seal screw backs and snap backs while 190 Deepstone Drive San Rafael, CA 94903 submitted or paid for such ads shall be re­ your customer waits. Visit our web turned or rebated to the advertiser. The pub­ site: dandsgasketcutter.com or e-mail: Used Equipment Bought & Sold ~ For Information lisher reserves the right to edit all copy. Price [email protected] for more information or ~ (415) 453-9266 lists of services will not be accepted. Confi­ call 713-661-6909. We also repair all types of dential ads are $10.00 additional for post­ watches & clocks. age and handling. The first of the month is issue date. Copy must be received 30 days ATMOS by Jaeger-LeCoultre in advance (August issue closes for copy Completely overhauled with the on July 1st). CLOCK GEARS, BARRELS and PINIONS made from your sample, ARBORS re-pivoted, teeth longest labor warranty on the planet! HOROLOG/CAL TIMES replaced in gears or barrels. All work Five years on all labor! 701 Enterprise Drive guaranteed, fair prices fast turn around. Mike's Clock Clinic Harrison, OH 45030 Call Mike Loebbaka, 86 Mullens Lane, Established in 1982 & devoted Toll Free 1-866-367-2924, ext. 307 Saugerties, NY 12477; Phone: 800-411-4542, exclusively to the Atmos since 1990. Phone (513) 367-9800 tictoc@ oldandnew.com I also overhaul 400-day clocks. Fax (513) 367-1414 Please call877-286-6762 E-mail: [email protected] http://www.atmos-man.com/atmos.html HAMILTON ELECTRIC WATCH REPAIR Expert, experienced service on all Hamilton 500 and 505 Electric watches. Hamilton elec­ ALVIN KRUTOLOW FOR TRADESMAN tric watches and parts always wanted. Rene ROLEX SERVICE Rondeau, P.O. Box 391, Corte Madera, CA Master Watchmaker, 47 years experience. 94976. Tel: (415) 924-6534. E-mail: Rolex Certified Watchmaker Awarded technical certificate from Rolex in rene@ hamiltonwristwatch.com 30 years experience. Genuine materials. Vin­ 1977. Service includes case & bracelet refin­ tage Rolex service. Also repair & restoration of ishing & waterproofing of case. All watch repeaters, fusee, all pocket watches, chronom­ parts are genuine Rolex. We specialize in the CLOCK , MUSIC BOX MAINSPRINGS, GEAR eters, complications, Atmos clock service, repair of high-grade watches & clocks. Not PINION CUTTERS, MATERIAL & PARTS CUS­ replating cases in 40 microns gold, convert to affiliated with Rolex Watches, Inc. USA. Ask TOM MADE. TANI ENGINEERING, 1852St. Rt. for rose gold color, any case. G C A La Precision, Alvin or Marcus, (203) 792-4539. 44, Atwater, OH 44201 ; (330) 325-0645. Cata­ 3830 Parkland Dr., Fairfax, VA 22033; Tele­ log $3.00. phone: 703-627-4054; Fax: 703-352-8077; Safe Registered Mail; E-mail: [email protected] VINTAGE POCKET WATCH RESTORATION. r------, Twenty-eight years experience, guar­ antee, free estimates. The Escapement, I DIAL I P.O. Box 522, Pooler, GA 31322; (912) 330- : REFINISHING : 0866

I I FENDLEY & COX I ., I! ; I WHEEL AND PINION SPECIALIST • a· 1530 Etain Rd., Irving, TX 75060 I I RICHARD COX 972-986-7698 I :- • -· I CMC, FNAWCC, CMBHI I ia _, ;. •-" •· I www.fendley-cox.com I .. I • I QUARTZ CONVERSIONS WATCH RUSTED? I BEFORE AFTER I GLASS CRYSTALS DISCONTINUED? NO PARTS? 1 Quartz Conversions 1 For pocket watches and wristwatches. For SENTIMENTAL? GOLD CASE? Diamond Dial Conversions price lisVorder blank: Send SASE to Mel Kaye, Send it to: I Emblem & Name Personalization I Box 322, Basking Ridge, NJ 07920. G C A La Precision I Write for Brochures I 3830 Parkland Drive I INTERNATIONAL DIAL CO., INC. I Fairiax, VA 22033 VERGE & LEVER FUSEE RESTORATIONS Telephone 703-627-4054 I 58W.SUGARTREE I 40 Years Experience Fax 703-352-8077 I P.O. BOX 970 I Barry J. Carter Safe Registered Mail WILMINGTON,OH45177 (250) 216-0791 IL ___ _(937)______382-4535 _jI [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]

44 Horological Times • June 2004 POCKET WATCH & Watch Repair Tools & Supplies MARINE CHRONOMETER REPAIR Clock Repair Tools & Supplies ... General repair and restoration of antique and for American and European clocks of aU types! / eckce//s complicated watches. Custom parts fabrica­ ·· · Horological Repair and Refenx:e Books Your battery connection and more ... tion including staffs, verge staffs, stems, le­ 379 Main Street Stoneham, MA 02180 vers, and springs. Located in Massachusetts. Browse through our inventory and Matt Henning, CW (413) 549-1950; ordet' on-line .24-hours a day! ••• NOW SUPPLYING MAINSPRINGS (NEWALL) www.henningwatches.com For American-made watches www.merritts.com $5.25 each, $48.00 per dozen ur-fua color, 19:J page COMPLETE LINE OF SEITZ JEWELS WATCH REPAIR SERVICE 1/fOtU Catalog of repair EVEREADY, RENATA & MAXELL BATTERIES Seeking steady repair account. supplies, tools and books Competitive pricing, monthly battery specials 45 years of experience! Specialist in pocket is now .wailable. watches and high-grade watches using genu­ Call Or Writl! ~r a copy MCIVISA ine material for Rolex, Tag Heuer and others. today! -.$3.00 poslpd. TOLL-FREE 800-514-1270 PHONE Certified in quartz. Call Remy's Watch Repair TOLL-FREE 800-690-3303 FAX for information or price list. (928) 757-2647; Fax (928) 757-3728

Witschi waterproof tester; ALC 2000 DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, 1860 Weave:rtown Rd. w/compressor, complete; Vibrograf 900 clean­ FINEST QUALITY, quantity works welcome. Douslassvi"Ue, PA 19518 ing machine; 2 Bergeon watchmaker benches (Rolex); parts and material. E-mail: Specialize on changing dial feet positions to fit 610-6119-9541 FAX: 610-689.{)567 the quartz movement. Send your works to: KIRK alaverolex@ aol.com DIAL OF SEATTLE, 4th & Pike Bldg., Suite 625, Seattle, WA 98101; (206) 623-2452. DASHTO INC./TOM MISTER PO Box 61894 STUCK FOR A MOVEMENT? Virginia Beach, VA 23466 or a watch part? Call Don Kraker's Watch http://www.dashto.com Movements. (559) 229-8423 or write 4325 No. Huge and everchanging selection 5th St., Fresno, CA 93726. ARTICLES FOR SALE Used and new horological items Sold by internet list only TOOLS/EQUIPMENT Complete watchmakers lathe, 6mm, Swiss, MATERIALASSTS/PARTS $2500. Send SASE to request photos or POCKET/WRISTWATCHES e-mail: [email protected] WATCH MOVEMENTS WATCH CASES & DIALS TOURS WATCH BRACELETS/BUCKLES Clockmaking & Modelmaking Books, Videos & MUCHMORE DVDs by W. R. Smith, 8049 Camberley Drive, WE BUY & TRADE ALSO Harry Blair and Advantage Tours team up Powell, TN 37849. Phone 865-947-9671; E-mail: tom@ dashto.com for a 12 day trip to England, October 14-25, WRSmith2@ aol.com http://dashto.org 2004. Highlights include Midland Watch and Clock Fair, Portobello Rd, Bermondsey and the new Covent Garden Markets, visit to the Stu­ SHERLINE PRODUCTS Regula and H. Herr cuckoo movements. Com­ dent Room of the British Museum, Victoria & Free catalogs upon request plete selection. Also factory stopper new Her­ Limited Supply on Hand of Machines & mie, Urgos, and Kieninger at 60% OFF our regu­ Albert, Worshipful Company of Clockmakers, Accessories at Pre-Price Increase Prices lar wholesale prices. Call Butterworth 1-800- the World of Mechanical Music - K. Harding in Starrett Collets Now Available 258-5418. the Cotswolds and so much more. For a flyer, ANTIQUE CLOCKWORKS, LTD. call Nick Lerescu at 1-800 -262-4284 or e-mail P.O. Box 201, Loretto, MN 55357 to [email protected] Toll Free 877-643-7698 E-mail: info@ AntiqueCiockworksltd.com Tungsten Cairbide Gravers www.AntiqueCiockworksltd.com 2" Fine Diamond Wheels Sapphire Burnishers If You Repair Clocks ... you need our all new Catalog #28. seen at the NAWCC marts this summerl SITUATIONS WANTED www.eternaltools.com 159 High St • Pershore • Worcs WR10 1EQ ·UK Wostep Graduate with twenty five years of experience. Seeks position with friendly High Grade retailer or service center. High grade mechanical and quartz experience. Rolex ex­ perience also. Please reply to: Horological Times, Box SW12304, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030.

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June 2004 • Horological Times 45 ATTENTION RETIRED WATCHMAKERS Call us before you sell your parts, tools, EDUCATION and watches. We have helped over 130 watchmakers in the last six years to dispose of their accumulations. When you're really ready to sell, we're ready to buy! Phone (727) 327·3306. Ask for Jeff or Nancy. E-mail: [email protected]

ACCUMLATIONS WANTED!! Buying Watchmakers' Stock of Old Watches, Cases, Movements, Watch Material, all types of wristwatches from common brands to all the famous makers. Serious buyer. Serious offers. Study the Art of Swiss Watchmaking ' Don Meyer 1-800-833-3159 in a Comprehensive 2-Year Program 12900 Preston Rd. #325 Dallas, TX 75230 E-mail: [email protected]

It's time to invest in a career for a lifetime. The growth of the luxury watch WE BUY WATCHES market has created job opportunities for qualified watchmakers throughout Rolex, Patek, Cartier, LeCoultre, Vacheron, the United States. Your career potential is unlimited due to the current and Breitling, Audemars, Tudor and others. Modern future need for watchmakers. Learn in an environment that combines old or Vintage. Doug Giard, 586·774-3684 world craftsmanship with state of the art techniques and equipment. Now is the time to request an application for the 2-year training program. Collector seeks Early American watches, move­ There are four WOSTEP (Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and ments and dials by the following firms: Education Program) Partnership Schools in the U.S. The full-time curricu­ C Fasoldt, GP Reed, Mozart, US Marion, Empire lum is designed to train and certify graduates for a fulfilling career in the City, Royal Gold American, Cornell, California, watchmaking profession. The WOSTEP program is available at the schools Newark, Western, JG Hall, Nashua, Pitkin, New listed below. Programs start in September in both Lititz and Seattle, and in York Springfield, DD Palmer, Freeport, MS January in Okmulgee and Saint Paul. Please write to the Admissions office Smith, Hoyt, Allison, San Jose, Otay, KW or request an application by telephone or email: Howard, Von der Heydt.... I will even buy ac­ cumulations - please contact Desmond Lundy, Box 30112, Victoria, BC V8X 5E1 or e-mail Lititz Watch Technicum Oklahoma State University fermenthaus@ shaw.ca 1 Wynfield Drive Okmulgee Watchmaking Lititz, PA 17543 and Microtechnology Small CHELSEA or WATERBURY move­ (717) 625-3787 1801 E. 4th Street ment needed to fit miniature carriage clock, [email protected] Okmulgee, OK 74447 2"H X 1 W'W X 1"D. (919) 369-9800 (918) 293-4703 [email protected] North Seattle Community www.osu-okmulgee.edu/watch/ College Watch Technology Institute Saint Paul College WANTED WATCH BOXES 9600 College Way North Watchmaking Program Buy- Sell -Trade Seattle. WA 98103 235 Marshall Ave. We want most major brands. Also buying high­ (206) 526-0169 Saint Paul, MN 55102 end jewelry brand boxes. Doug Giard, 586- [email protected] (651) 846-1408 774-3684 www.saintpaul.edu

BUYING OLD ROLEX WATCHES WANTED TO BUY Explorer, Submariner, Sea-Dweller, GMT, Milgauss, Bubbleback, Cosmograph, Chrono­ graph, Speed King, Oyster, any partial watches, Chronograph movements, cases, dials, parts movements, dials, crowns, signs, clocks, and watches. Paying: Valjoux 72 - $200.00; anything Rolex. Venus 178 - $150.00; Longines 13ZN - Call Don Meyer 1-800-833-3159 $350.00; Valjoux 69 - $350.00; also Rolex 620 NA - $350.00. Dean Samelle, 25 W Beverley We also fit glass crystals to St., Staunton, VA 24401; 1-866-877-8164. Openface, Hunting, and English chain drive watches. Complete watches, dials, $$WANTED ANYTHING$$ WATCH MATERIAL Rolex - Cartier - Patek - Breitling movements, case springs for sale. Panerai - Le Coultre DISTRIBUTORS Vacheron - AP - Etc. Please call us if you are interested G F Specialties Watches, Boxes, Dials, Links, Parts, Bands, in selling your business. Movements, Crystals, Bezels, Crowns, Clocks, All replies confidential. 1-800-351-6926 Signhs, Posters, Catalogs, Instruction Books, Contact Pat Cassedy P.O. Box 170216 Polish Cloths, Wallets, Hats, Shirts, Promo Items, Cas-Ker Co. (513) 674-7700 Milwaukee, WI 53217 ANYTHING! Doug Giard, 586-774-3684

46 Horological Times • June 2004 We pay up to 97% of market for karat gold scrap (any amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, sweeps, HELP WANTED silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment I return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, 253 King St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. Established 1960. Phone (843) 722-2073.

BUYING WATCHMAKER ESTATES, TOOLS, MATERIAL, MOVEMENTS, POCKET WATCH COLLECTIONS, in Midwest and Western USA. WATCH Larry, [email protected], (970) 263-8807, Box 84, Whitewater, CO 81527. TECHNICIANS , If's About TIIJie!

WE BUY ENTIRE Responsibilities include quartz & mechanical. repair, remove and replace movements, recondition and WATCH COLLECTIONS refinish case bracelets and replace bracelets. Must have good hand/eye coordination and 2+ years Call Toll Free experience. 1-800-426-2344 It's about time YOU enjoy 203-366-2500 our outstanding benefits... • 2 reviews 1st year SPECIALTYMETALS . .. . , . . . • health, dental, 40lk, prescriptions, product REFINING discmmt & more COMPANY, INC. ~ \ i :.. t'1.. • 1915 Black Rock Turnpike fantastic casual work environment Fairfield, CT 06430 \ e, ~l Please send resume and cover letter to: Members: Seiko Corporation of America Ron Fried, ~ . : 1111 MacArthur Blvd. President Better Business Bureau "I look forward to Jewelers Board of Trade a. .. ·' Mahwah, NJ 07430 1 '{ · email: [email protected] giving you honest 224 Consecutive Ads 1 and reliable service.· • • • • • • Fax201-512-7679 EOEIADA/M'FID/V

AUCTION Horological Times LARGE ABSOLUTE , Annual Binders AUCTION IT~S TIME Preserve a full year's volume of J"O SELL your Horologica/ Times in this handsome, embossed 12-spine A WATCH binder. TOP PRICES PAID! $14.00 each ~ ROLEX • 'PATEk PI11LIPP,f 'i iCHERON & CONSTANT~ AUDEMARS PIGUET Horological Times BREITliNG • CARTIER Back Issues & OTHERS

When you're ready to sell 1977 through the present ~ Call Toll Free Limited quantities and some issues 1 .. soo-842-8625 may no longer be available. Always prompt pii)'ll"Jen(J 1·5 $6.25 each 6-12 $5.75 each 13+ $5.00 each AWCI members receive a 10% discount on back issues

Dakil AUCTIONfERs To order contact AWCI at 1-866-367-2924 ext. 301 405-751-6179 or visit our web site www.awi-net.org www. da ki 1-a uct ion. com

June 2004 • Horological Times 47 Advertisers' Index

Borel & Co., Jules ...... 5 Frei & Borel ...... 29 Smith Supply House ...... 19 (816) 421-6110 (510) 832-0355 (213) 622-1687

Butterworth Clocks, Inc ...... 11 International Watch Collectors Society ...... 7 Time Connection, Inc ...... 19 (800) 258-5418 (516) 374-5060 (213) 624-2675

Cas-Ker Co ...... inside back cover S. LaRose, Inc ...... 17 Twin City Supply ...... 27 (513) 674-7700 (336) 621-1936 (952) 545-2725

Chronos/WCR ...... 35 Livesay's, Inc ...... 13 Vibrograf U.S.A. Corp ...... 15 (303) 296-1600 (813) 229-2715 (516) 437-8700

Clocks ...... 29 Max ell Corp ...... back cover Witschi Electronics USA Ltd ...... 9 011 01 31 228 6638 (201) 794-5900 (800) 882-7977

Esslinger & Co ...... inside front cover McCaw Co., WilliamS ...... 3 Zantech ...... 31 (651) 452-7180 (419) 243-3720 (800) 441-7569

Ferrell & Company ...... 25 Primrose Supplies, Inc ...... 9 (213) 627-6031 (801) 485-3908

AWCI Employee Directory

James E. Lubic, CMW Nancy L. Wellmann Gary Richards Executive Director Education Coordinator AWl-ELM Charitable Trust Education & Technical Director 1-866-367-2924 ext. 303 Development Director 1-866-367-2924 ext. 310 nwellmann@ awi-net.org 1-866-367-2924 ext. 315 jlubic@ awi-net.org grichards@ awi-net.org Sharon McManus Lucy Fuleki Membership Coordinator Laurie Penman Assistant Executive Director 1-866-367-2924 ext. 302 Clock Instructor 1-866-367-2924 ext. 304 smcmanus@ awi-net.org 1-866-367-2924 ext. 318 lfuleki@ awi-net.org lpenman@ awi-net.org Mary Huff Thomas J. Pack Shipping Coordinator Steve Jones Finance Director 1-866-367-2924 ext. 305 Audiovisual Manager 1-866-367-2924 ext. 311 mhuff@ awi-net.org 1-866-367-2924 ext. 308 tpack@ awi-net.org sjones@ awi-net.org Heather Kyde Donna K. Baas Receptionist/Secretary American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030 Managing Editor/Advertising Manager 1-866-367-2924 ext. 301 Phone: Toll Free 1-666-367-2924 or (513) 367-9800 1-866-367-2924 ext. 307 hkyde@ awi-net.org Fax: (513) 367-1414 dbaas@ awi-net.org E-mail: awi @awi-net.org Web Site: www .awi-net.org Office Hours: Mon-Fri 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM (EST) Closed National Holidays

48 Horological Times • June 2004 Looking for Accutron parts? Call today. These are hard to find!

Original Accutron Original Accutron Original Accutron Original Accutron 218 Crowns #56PY 218 Crown #781 242 Step Motor 2300 Coil #711 & 56SS 781 Steel Fits 218 Diver #20.510 900.005.09 ...... $49.00 900.005.01 10KY 900.005.05 900.005.11 ...... $49.00 900.005 .02 Stainless Steel $15.00ea $15 .OOea 3@$12.00ea 3@ $12.00ea 0 Original Original Original Original Original Accutron 219 Accutron 214 Accutron 214 Accutron 218 Accutron 214 Fourth Wheel Index Wheel Hatch Gasket Back Gasket Back Gasket #107 #112 #G736 #G780 #G735 900.005.03 900.005.12 900.005.06 900.005.08 900.005.07 $10.00 $49.00 $5.00 $5.00 $5.00 While Supplies Last

-- - ,r,~_. """---._ .. .~._., \.. ~·~. --~ Accucell-1 1.35 Volt Silver Oxide replacement Original Accutron Original Accutron cell for tuning fork watches. Replaces 218 Cell Coil #715 219 Cell Coil #715 mercury cells 343 & 387. 900.005.04 ...... $60.00 900.005.10 ...... $49.00 Accucell-1 ...... 4 pack $23.80 CALL 1-800-487-0408 Cas·~&[J(O. FAX 1-800-487-5848 2550 CIVIC CENTER DR PO BOX 31167 LOCAL PHONE 513/674-7700 FAX 513/674-0600 CINCINNATI OH 45231-0167 Shop our web site: www.casker.com THOSE WHO PUT

THEIR NAME

ON THE OUTSIDE,

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ON THE INsIDE.

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QUALITY. INNOVATION. LONGEVITY. maxell THE WORLD LEADER IN MICRO BATIERY TECHNOLOGY