HOT MARKET NEWER BRANDS ARE WWD INTIMATES GAINING TRACTION IN FROM WHAT’S SELLING NOW TO DESIGNER FOOTWEAR. PAGE 4 SOCIAL MEDIA STRATEGIES. SECTION II

CONSUMERS

GLOBAL

FINANCE WWD MOBILE TECH

MONDAY, JULY 23, 2012 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY

VISION FACEBOOK

THE NEW CEO LOGISTICS CULTURE WHAT IT PINTEREST TAKES IN MARKETING TODAY’S TWITTER WORLD CHINA

PRODUCT

LEADERSHIP By LISA LOCKWOOD E-COMMERCE WANTED: A CHIEF Fashion companies in executive officer who is particular and retailing financially astute and tech- in general are character- savvy and possesses strong ized by a highly entrepre- leadership skills, vision and inter- neurial spirit, and, for a typi- national experience. cal founder, a company is not only Today’s leadership role is in flux as retailers a creative release and a source of wealth, morph into omnichannel organizations and consum- it’s a way of life. Handing off the baton doesn’t enter ers dramatically alter their shopping habits. The require- into the conversation all that often. ments for the ceo are changing, too. And yet board members are required to be actively engaged According to management psychologists, executive re- in succession planning, homing in on a short list of candidates cruiters and consultants, ceo’s need to be as well versed in the screened and ready should their ceo’s retire. profit and loss and balance sheet as they are in merchandising, Consequently, discreet searches constantly go on in the industry. marketing, Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and mobile technology. Still, this past year has seen quite a lot of activity in the c-level suites. As a result, it has become increasingly difficult to find top talent Ralph Lauren, 72, signed a five-year contract June 26 keeping that not only has the vision, leadership, execution and interper- him at the helm until 2017. And industry observers continue to watch sonal skills but also the technological, supply chain logistics and with fascination Giorgio Armani, 78, who maintains a breakneck pace international know-how to successfully lead a global organization. with his solely owned company. Asked in May about recent specula- As a generation of founder-entrepreneurs begins thinking about tion about the company’s future and succession plans, Armani said that succession and Baby Boomers reach retirement age, boards are forming a foundation is one possibility, and that his family is equipped seeking ceo candidates who possess skills that are very different to carry on. “The foundation is only one of the possibilities; there is from those of the company founders. These founder-entrepreneurs nothing substantial there. The continuity of the company is already well are focused, appropriately, on the very vision that continues to defined. I’ve had close collaborators for some time now that bring forward drive their success. Succession planning is low on the priority list. my work in the best of ways. The family, in addition, is integrated in the SEE PAGE 6

PHOTO BY RICHARD LAIRD/GETTY IMAGES 2 WWD MONDAY, JULY 23, 2012

Coach Wins $44M in Fakes Case the Briefing Box

multimillion-dollar judgment, the defendants had also sold in Today’s WWd By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD she granted Coach a perma- counterfeit bags on eBay. nent injunction, shutting down “Linda Allen plainly re- COACH INC. SCORED a $44 mil- the defendants’ infringing Web quires substantial deterrence lion judgment against a U.S.- sites, Bellafashions.net and because she has not been de- based mother-and-daughter duo MyClassyFashion.com. terred by prior judgments,” operating Web sites advertising “I know nothing about this,” explained the judge. “She per- and selling counterfeit Coach said a testy Linda Allen, who re- sists in her contumacious be- handbags. turned calls for comment regard- havior. This award may be crip- The case, which was filed ing the judgment. pling, but it is plainly needed in Manhattan federal court, When pressed further, she to prevent Allen from going stands out from similar repeatedly said, “it’s not valid,” back once again into the busi- Internet counterfeiting suits but finally admitted that while ness of counterfeiting.” because the defendants, Linda she did indeed know she had To back up her decision, and Courtney Allen, reside in been sued by Coach, she had not Judge McMahon said the Allens “willfully” infringed Coach’s trademark because they admit- Benjamin Millepied’s “Framework” ted on their Web sites that the performed at MOCA. goods they were selling were “not This decision should also serve as original” and that they were “in no way affiliated with the authen- The chief executive officer role is in flux as retailers notice to all who traffic in counterfeit tic manufacturers.” morph into omnichannel organizations and consumers She added that when the de- dramatically alter their shopping habits. PAGE 1 fendants finally turned in a re- goods that Coach will vigorously sponse to Coach’s allegations in Value fashion chain Max has been designated as the June, the paperwork was “utterly licensee for the Cherokee brand in several Middle Eastern pursue you, and will win. devoid of substance.” and north African markets. PAGE 3 “Coach is exceedingly

— NaNcy axilrod pleased with the court’s ruling,” RetailMeNot.com, one of the largest coupon Web sites, said Nancy Axilrod, Coach’s has 400 million unique visits a year and offers 500,000 deputy general counsel. “The coupons for 100,000 stores. PAGE 3 Syosset, N.Y. Typically, these yet received word of a verdict decision in Coach v. Linda Allen,

cases involve foreign-based against her. et al. should serve as a warn- Alan Sebastian Greco, 62, a longtime beauty executive Web operators who are difficult A repeat offender, Allen had ing to defendants in all pending and founder of Paul Sebastian Inc., died July 14. PAGE 3 to track down. been sued by French fashion Coach lawsuits that courts con-

In her decision, presiding house Chanel Inc. for trademark sider counterfeiting a serious Designer shoe floors are getting crowded, with a group of Judge Colleen McMahon said counterfeiting and infringement issue and are prepared to order high-end brands, including Charlotte Olympia and Nicholas Thursday that the defendants in 2007 for the “same exact ille- defendants to pay large sums of Kirkwood, entering the sector’s retail space. PAGE 4 had violated Coach’s trade- gal conduct” with the operation money. This decision should also

marks on 11 types of goods for of MyClassyFashion.com and serve as notice to all who traffic Swiss watch exports, bolstered by robust sales of gold a total of 22 separate infringe- UltimateDesignersHandbags.com, in counterfeit goods that Coach timepieces, increased 21.7 percent in June. PAGE 8 ments. In addition to award- according to Judge McMahon, will vigorously pursue you, and

ing the handbag maker a hefty who noted that in the Coach case, will win.” Swiss watchmaker Vacheron Constantin, which opened its first U.S. boutique on Madison Avenue in New York in September, is ramping up its U.S. expansion efforts. PAGE 8

Alexia Landeau discusses her latest project, “2 Days Progress Made in Port Negotiations in New York,” which she cowrote with fellow actress Julie Delpy and in which she stars. PAGE 9 sides fail to reach an agreement chairman and chief executive

By KRISTI ELLIS on the contract. officer James A. Capo said in Do not look for American Apparel on the medal stand in “We are pleased to see the a joint statement from Delray 2014 in Sochi; the company will not produce any uniforms WASHINGTON — The progress made by the ILA and Beach. “We’re pleased that we for Russia’s Olympic team after all. PAGE 9 International Longshoremen’s USMX from this latest round of were able to resolve some impor-

Association and the U.S. Maritime negotiations,” said Jonathan Gold, tant issues and look forward to Nicole Richie has begun releasing sketches of looks Alliance, representing ocean car- vice president of supply chain and continuing bargaining to reach she’s designing for her collection for Macy’s Impulse riers, said they made “significant customs policy at the National agreement on the remaining is- department, which will launch in September. PAGE 11 progress” this week on several Retail Federation. “We are hopeful sues in the current negotiations.” key issues pertaining to a bar- they will be able to come to a final They also acknowledged the gaining contract covering ports agreement on the remaining issues importance of East and Gulf on WWD.CoM from Maine to Texas and affecting and ratify a new contract before Coast ports to global commerce roughly 20 percent of all apparel, the current contract expires.” and vowed to “reach an agree- EYE: “Framework,” a new series of three site-specific dance textiles and footwear trade, as the The two sides said they ment without any disruption in performances by L.A. Dance Project/Benjamin Millepied two sides wrapped up a round of reached an “agreement in prin- the supply chain and operation in collaboration with Los Angeles artist Mark Bradford, talks in Florida on Friday. ciple” on issues involving the of 14 ports.” premiered at Los Angeles’ Museum of Contemporary Art. An ILA spokesman said the introduction of new technology The two sides said they have For more photos, see WWD.com/eye. two sides will continue in the and automation, as well as on successfully negotiated nine new “coming weeks” negotiations to- maintenance and repair of chas- master contracts since 1977 with- ward reaching an agreement on sis with marine terminals and out any disruption in port opera- CorreCtion a new contract. at off-pier facilities in the East tions. The current contract took TJ Maxx did not cite weather for disappointing June sales. “The two sides remain very and Gulf Coast ports. No details effect in 2004 and was extended The company was pleased with sales results for that period. TJ Maxx did not cite weather for optimistic of reaching an agree- about the tentative agreements for two years in 2010. This was incorrect in a story on page 6, Thursday. disappointing June sales. The ment prior to the Sept. 30, 2012, were released, but among ILA’s Daggett, whose union repre- company was pleased with sales expiration,” of the master con- demands were that the contract sents 15,000 members, and Capo, To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is results for that period. This was tract, he said. protect jobs displaced by techno- whose association represents 24 [email protected], using The individual’s name. incorrect in a story on page 6, Importers have raised con- logical advances and that it also container carrier members, in- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Thursday. cern in recent weeks about the cover chassis pool operators. cluding 10 of the largest world- VOLUME 204, NO. 15. MONDAY, JULY 23, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays threat of a potential East Coast “We had a productive ses- wide, also directed management and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine port strike during the peak holi- sion in Florida,” ILA president and ILA locals to begin bargain- Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: day delivery season if the two Harold J. Daggett and USMX ing on local port issues. S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, Ypma to Succeed Tanna as Issa CEO ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, LONDON — Issa London has a at Issa since Camilla Al Fayed, a space of time,” stated Tanna. option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless new chief executive officer. daughter of Mohamed Al Fayed, “I…believe that we have now we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on The London-based label, took a controlling stake in the placed Issa on a strong footing all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all a favorite of the Duchess of business last July. Daniella Issa for its continued development editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints Cambridge, said Friday that Helayel, the brand’s founder, and growth as a business.” of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at Angelina Ypma has been named its continues to serve as creative di- Ypma has also held positions www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that ceo, and will take the post Aug. 1. rector of the business. at brands including Chanel, we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at She was most recently man- “I have greatly enjoyed the Cartier and Lanvin. “I relish the P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED aging director of Bulgari U.K. varied challenges of the last 12 challenge of fully realizing the ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER and Ireland. months and am very proud of potential of Issa into an interna- UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR Ypma replaces Anil Tanna, the progress achieved by the tional brand.” DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A who is retiring. Tanna had been team at Issa in such a short — NiNa JoNes SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

w23a002a.indd 2 7/22/12 3:38 PM 07222012154028 WWD MONDAY, JULY 23, 2012 3 WWD.COM Cherokee in Licensing Deal Coupon Web Site Gains Steam

To Enter New Global Markets pers’ credit cards so discounts technology [scanners] to read bar By SHARON EDELSON automatically appear on their codes better and train staff better. CHEROKEE INC. has signed a our continued progress in im- receipt. RetailMeNot partnered Consumers find no shame in using licensing agreement granting proving our brand penetration COUPONS HAVE BEEN a hot with First Data and CardSpring coupons — they’re even accepted Max, the value-based fashion and strengthening our global topic lately, reviled by J.C. Penney to develop the credit card feature, at Nordstrom,” Cunningham said. chain based in the United Arab brand footprint,” said Henry Co. Inc.’s chief executive officer, which is still in beta and has yet Coupons from RetailMeNot Emirates, exclusive rights to the Stupp, chief executive officer Ron Johnson, who’s been trying to be integrated into the mobile are for in-store use only. “We see Cherokee brand for a series of of Cherokee. “We are confident to break consumers’ addiction to app. In the third or fourth quar- our app fighting showrooming,” markets in the Middle East and that our family-focused lifestyle coupons and promotions by prom- ter, RetailMeNot will launch an Cunningham said. “There’s a big northern Africa. brand will resonate well with ising day-in-day-out fair prices. Android app. trend of people in stores look- The company, based in Max’s fashion-forward, value- One coupon cheerleader is Cotter Cunningham said RetailMeNot ing at, say, Gap T-shirts to make Sherman Oaks, Calif., also clari- oriented patrons, and we look Cunningham, founder and ceo partners with retailers and shows sure online and off-line pric- fied the status of the Cherokee forward to working with Max of whalesharkmedia.com, which them how to use coupons profit- ing are the same. The future is license in Canada, where Target to develop and expand our had revenues of $120 million last ably. “Coupons are used to bring in in GPS advertising. You’re in a Corp. is assuming leases previ- consumer base throughout the year and owns a variety of cou- new customers or clear merchan- Nordstrom and, ‘ding, ding, ding,’ ously held by Zellers. Middle East and Africa.” pon Web sites. One of the largest, dise,” he said. “It’s easy for us to you get a message, ‘here are five With the addition of Max, The search for a Middle RetailMeNot.com, has 400 million drive traffic. Brick-and-mortar re- items on sale at Nordstrom.’” Cherokee now has direct-to- Eastern retail partner was over- unique visits a year and offers tailers are looking to replace the Cunningham is bullish on retail licenses with stores span- seen by Mark Nawrocki, senior 500,000 coupons for 100,000 stores. Sunday supplement [with online Facebook, which he said “has a ning more than 40 countries. The vice president of Cherokee. Pick “We’re the largest coupon site coupons],” he said. “The cycle to huge head start for personaliza- largest of the retailers include ’n Pay has rights for Cherokee in in the U.S.,” Cunningham said. print Sunday supplements takes 20 tion. The number-one reason Target in the U.S.; Tesco in the South Africa and several adja- Half of the coupons on the site weeks. Online, we can put an ad up people follow brands is because U.K., Ireland and several central cent countries. come directly from retailers. in 30 minutes to one hour.” they’re looking for deals.” European markets, and Arvind Separately, Cherokee said Others are posted by users. There are things retailers can The two-and-a-half-year-old Mills in India. The Max arrange- Target’s right to the Cherokee RetailMeNot launched its do to make shopping with coupons company received $150 million in ment will include men’s, wom- name will be extended to in- mobile site last year and re- run more smoothly. Adding a nu- venture capital last year, which it en’s and children’s merchandise. clude Canada as of Feb. 1 and cently introduced its first native merical code would help at the used to grow its market share of Founded in 2004, Max has Target will hold the rights to app for iOS. Cunningham said cash wrap because many scanners the retail industry. “We’re think- 200 stores in nations including Canada exclusively by Jan. 31, RetailMeNot has also figured out used by retailers don’t pick up the ing about an IPO in the next 24 the UAE, Saudi Arabia, Jordan, 2014. The granting of exclu- a way to connect coupons to shop- bar code. “Retailers need updated months,” Cunningham said. Kuwait, Bahrain, Oman, Turkey, sivity would be prior to that Egypt, Libya, Qatar, Nigeria, date if the current arrange- Lebanon, Sudan, Yemen and ment with Zellers for Canada OBITUARY India. The license doesn’t apply is terminated. Alan to markets already covered Target last year agreed to Greco by Cherokee licenses, such as purchase the leasehold inter- in the India. Shufersal holds the rights ests to up to 220 Zellers sites Beauty Executive Alan Greco Eighties. to the brand in Israel. in Canada. Between 125 and “The exclusive partner- 135 stores will be converted by In 1999, Paul Sebastian Inc. ship with Max is a testament to March. — ARNOLD J. KARR By JULIE NAUGHTON was sold to FFI Fragrances, now Elizabeth Arden Inc. ALAN SEBASTIAN GRECO, Subsequently, Greco was presi- a longtime beauty executive and dent of Victory International and founder of Paul Sebastian Inc., worked with Carlos Santana on a died July 14 at the age of 62. scent project. The cause of death was a “Alan was a true pioneer and heart attack, said Martha Brady, a great entrepreneur in our in- a partner in the brand develop- dustry,” said Martha Brady, who ment firm Beauty Management added that Greco was an early Longtime retailer Debbie Group LLC. pioneer of the industry staple Murtha, who will join Belk on July Before founding Beauty known as gift-with-purchase, as 30 as vice president of cosmetics, Management Group with Martha an alternative to advertising for worked with Greco during her Brady and Robert Brady, Greco Paul Sebastian. “He was a warm, tenure at the May Co. “Alan and founded the fragrance company kind, smart, loving husband, fa- Lennie [Cuozzo] took the men’s Paul Sebastian with Leonard Paul ther and friend — he will be so business by storm,” she said. Cuozzo in 1979. At the time, Greco missed by everyone whose lives “They took what was a corporate- was national sales manager for were touched by him.” driven business and distilled it so Textron, the aviation conglomer- Robert Brady added, “He was a retailers could be involved in the ate. Together, Greco and Cuozzo terrific human being and passion- process, which was not the norm sold a spicy floral juice, Paul ate about everything, especially at the time. Alan was extraordi- An ad for Cherokee at Max. Sebastian Fine Cologne, to ap- his family. We worked together for narily creative, very intuitive and parel retailers in their home state seven years with our firm, Beauty in tune with consumers. He was of New Jersey. Within two years, Management Group, and we never an amazing guy.” the company had several hundred once had an argument. If we didn’t Greco’s survivors include his Trade Shows Head to Brazil accounts. In 1982 another men’s agree totally on a project, we sim- wife, Denise; sister, Debbie Greco; scent, VSOP, was introduced, and ply didn’t do it. Our strengths were son and daughter-in-law Jeffrey too early to list vendors who in 1985 By Design, the house’s first complementary as well. He will be and Alicia Greco, and daughter By LISA LOCKWOOD will be participating. women’s fragrance, was launched. sorely missed by us all.” Nicole Greco. São Paulo Prêt-à-Porter is BJI FASHION Group, producers home to more than 500 apparel of AccessoriesTheShow, Moda and accessories collections, and Jeanbart-Lorenzotti Teams With New York & Co. and Fame, will create “a show attracts more than 20,000 visitors within a show” featuring inter- each season. The show offers its Jeanbart-Lorenzotti also cu- details on clutches. Examples of national brands from the U.S. at exhibitors direct contact with A bag from the rates a collection of slightly low- her pieces include a faux-suede the upcoming Couromoda and buyers all over Latin America. collaboration. er-priced products for HSN. In fringe bag with signature snake São Paulo Prêt-à-Porter Fashion Couromoda, the interna- October, she’ll launch the first detail and a snake-print scarf. Week in Brazil from Jan. 13 to 16. tional shoe and leather goods of three limited-edition capsule Each piece will embody the According to Britton Jones, fair, is considered the most collections for New York & Co. distinctive style for which Eva is president and chief executive important event held in Latin The exclusive luxury-influenced known, and the confidence and officer of BJI, “Colocating with America for the footwear busi- and affordably priced collection spirit that are New York City. São Paulo Prêt-à-Porter rep- ness. The upcoming 40th edi- will be available online and Jeanbart-Lorenzotti travels the resents an enormous oppor- tion will host more than 3,000 in New York & Co. stores na- world procuring rarified items for tunity for international con- collections and is expected to tionwide in October. Jeanbart- the catalogue and e-commerce temporary collections wishing have about 85,000 visitors from Lorenzotti’s collections for New site. “Retail is different for me, to expand into the massive all over Brazil and 60 interna- York & Co. will include items even though I have stores in the and rapidly growing Brazilian tional countries. ranging from statement brace- Bahamas,” she said. “I’m giving and Latin-American markets, Francisco Santos, ceo of both lets, necklaces and handbags to my own line serious thought. I re- which are already the sixth Brazilian shows, said, “The po- embellished and sophisticated ally have a point of view. It’s going largest in the world. However, tential in both Brazil and all jackets, tops and pants. Prices to be interesting to see and feel they are still largely untapped of Latin America is huge, and range from $29.99 to $109.95 for my products in the stores.” by U.S. brands and are looking São Paulo will continue to con- a leather jacket. The second Items sold on Vivre.com in- for iconic, trend-centric con- solidate its position as the re- and third capsules will bow in clude a blue sapphire name temporary merchandise.” gion’s leading fashion capital. NEW YORK — Eva Jeanbart- November and December. ring by Sazingg for $11,400; Jones expects to bring about The combined strength of these Lorenzotti’s jet-set life has be- Jeanbart-Lorenzotti’s signa- diamond spiral earrings by 50 ready-to-wear and acces- shows makes for the perfect come synonymous with her luxu- ture detail, the snake, is found Caroline Dadlani for $8,000, sories brands to the Brazilian venue for BJI Fashion Group ry brand, Vivre, a catalogue and throughout the New York & Co. and a belt with a 24-karat gold- market. The company has just to launch AccessoriesTheShow, e-commerce site that she fills with collection on everything from the plated buckle shaped like a begun its sales effort, so it was Moda and Fame in Brazil.” her unique discoveries. logo to bracelet cuffs to closure goldfish for $1,885. — S.E. 4 WWD MONDAY, JULY 23, 2012 WWD.COM accessories Designer Footwear’s Next Guard

such as hand-painted mirror or marble ef- Downing is aware of her cult following really invested in growing distribution for By RACHEL STRUGATZ fects on velvet, lizard or suede. The line, within the industry, he knows the collection the brand outside of the U.S. It’s carried in which retails from about $600 to $1,000, still has a ways to go in terms of becoming a about 150 doors worldwide (74 in the U.S.), NEW YORK — Designer shoe floors are was picked up by Saks upon its launch in household name. primarily at department stores such as Saks getting crowded. 2010 for the spring 2011 season and is now He also cites Simmons in the same Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Harvey The category is experiencing a shift, available at nearly 60 doors worldwide, in- breath, calling her understanding of styl- Nichols, Lane Crawford and Printemps. with a group of high-end brands — cluding Harvey Nichols, Luisa Via Roma, ing and the ability to have her finger on the Birman already has one freestanding door Charlotte Olympia, Nicholas Kirkwood, L’Eclaireur, Opening Ceremony Tokyo and pulse of fashion “not only as it’s happening, in São Paulo, and a second will open in the Tabitha Simmons and Alexandre Birman Tsum in Moscow. Domestically, it’s cur- but before it happens” as instrumental in same city at Iguatemi mall next month. among them — gaining entrée into the sec- rently sold at Saks, Scoop, Stanley Korshak, the brand’s upward growth trajectory. The label was originally picked up by tor’s retail space. Fivestory and Fred Segal. Bergdorf Goodman four years ago as a con- While it’s less a changing of the guard — According to Lanvin, married to Jeanne temporary line and sold on the retailer’s Tabitha Manolo Blahnik, Jimmy Choo, Prada, Gucci, Lanvin’s grandson Hubert Lanvin, business fifth “5F” floor, but Birman’s spring 2012 Simmons Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and Christian has doubled in terms of doors since its first collection was moved to the designer shoe Louboutin remain perennial bestsellers — season and has increased three times in department on the second floor. the above designers have edged their way terms of sales volume. Nicholas Kirkwood has also seen ro- into the minds (and closets) of trend- bust growth. The business has tripled conscious consumers. in size since 2010 and is available at Department stores especially are 140 doors worldwide (throughout placing a huge emphasis on the cat- Nicholas 36 countries). Since its launch egory, pumping capital into exten- Kirkwood in 2005, the brand has become sive renovations at their flagships. synonymous with unique ma- Barneys New York unveiled a terials and innovative con- revamped designer shoe depart- structions, such as a rapid ment last week on its fifth floor prototyping technique, also

and Saks Fifth Avenue did the called 3-D printing, that al- same in 2007 on its eighth floor, lows for the production of un- with an additional expansion usual heel shapes not possible taking place last month. from a mold (this process was “People are seeking out ex- used to create the silver-and- treme fashion from footwear wood-effect wedges in Rodarte’s

selections, and it only helps the spring 2011 collection). excitement factor when we’re “In the past two years, selling shoes. The more that we’ve expanded the collection. we’re able to bring these brands It’s double the size with other in and market them, the more Aperlaï categories and different heel they become a designer sta- heights. Now, there’s less focus ple. We need them from a ·· on the platform and even more merchandise perspective to on the midheel. Two to three add newness but also from a years ago, it got to the point of business point of view,” Saks ‘how crazy can you make the Fifth Avenue fashion director shoe,’ but it’s coming back down. Elizabeth Kanfer said. “Because It’s gone through this whole cycle the major brands can only get so in a way,” Kirkwood said of the big, we need to think of the next evolution of his $595 to $2,500 foot- crop of staples in the store. The new wear since its launch in 2005. This guard becomes less emerging and Alexandre Charlotte past May he also celebrated the more of a substantial part of our sales.” Birman Olympia opening of his second freestanding According to Kanfer, Kirkwood’s $995 store in the Meatpacking District black suede ruffle platform ankle booties here, following a first door in London are among fall’s early bestsellers — along a year earlier. with Blahnik’s suede ankle-strap pumps But is there a difference between the cus- and Choo’s silver glitter smoking slippers. “People are seeking out extreme fashion from tomer who buys Kirkwood’s peep-toe glitter Last September, WWD reported that one lace-up booties and the one who gravitates of the fastest-selling designer shoe styles footwear selections, and it only helps the toward Jimmy Choo or Manolo Blahnik? at the retailer’s flagship here were $1,540 Not so much, according to Net-a-porter’s suede fringe platform wedge booties in bur- excitement factor when we’re selling shoes. buying manager Sasha Sarokin. gundy from Kirkwood’s fall 2011 collection. “While our customers love their Jimmy But this is not the case in every location, — ELIZABETH KANFER, Choos and Louboutins, they’re aware of new Kanfer explained. While Kirkwood’s elab- SAKS FIFTH AVENUE designers and are confident in fashion — so orate designs might fly off the shelves in they’ll respond to a beautiful shoe across a New York (it’s also a test ground for emerg- breadth of designers. They’ll wear their stud- ing brands), in the less urban stores and “It’s a very prolific period for shoe de- In the past year, Simmons’ three-year-old ded [Louboutin] Pigalles, [Choo] 24:7 pumps non-flagship locations the customer often sign. There are a lot of big talents outside collection has seen a 25 percent increase in and colorful [Olympia] Dolly pumps all in doesn’t know who these designers are — that I love,” Lanvin said, listing fellow de- business, and is carried in about 60 doors the same week,” Sarokin said. something the retailer is keen on changing. signers Simmons, Laurence Dacade and worldwide, including Le Bon Marche, Downing agrees. He’s observed that “Our hope is in the next several years we Gianvito Rossi as each having successfully Colette, Harrods, Selfridges, Lane Crawford, it’s about the style — not the brand. The can roll these brands [Kirkwood, Simmons developed a particular signature. Of her own Saks Fifth Avenue, Barneys New York, Neiman Marcus shopper is trend-curious and Brian Atwood] out to other locations. signature, Lanvin points to the graphic heel Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. and seeks immediate “credit” in her ward- We hope these emerging brands become introduced in her fall 2011 collection, an ode Shoes start at $495 for lace-up espadrilles, robe — and she’s attracted to a pair of more established and we can offer them in to Picasso’s cubism. The handmade heel is and go up to $2,295 for boots lined in fur. shoes that she doesn’t have. According to more stores. It’s the direction we’re taking a lightweight, rectangular structure that the “Footwear has opened·· up a lot more. Downing, these women follow fashion in footwear,” Kanfer said, noting that the store designer evolved for fall 2012. Lanvin will Before, there were the three or four big print and online, they know the silhouettes has begun carrying Simmons fall collection present spring 2013 next month, for which giants and not any new ones. People are and colors that are trending and they want on saks.com and will roll the line out in two she has developed a new style that she much more open to newer brands,” newly these new shoes immediately, and its not as doors, the New York flagship and Boston. coined the “Lady Cat” — an “intense tropi- minted CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund finalist important who the designer is. Of this group, though, it’s Atwood cal green” snakeskin and suede sandal with Simmons told WWD. The designer already When it comes to purchases within the who was the first to be accepted into the a curved “talon” hugging the ankle, adorned has a “signature” — the Bailee, a double fashion assortment, it’s not about necessity designer shoe circle. He launched his with five gold buttons resembling a spine. ankle-strap sandal with corseted, lace-up with this consumer. Downing and Kanfer namesake line in 2001, and is now car- For Ken Downing, Neiman Marcus detailing along the back. Simmons is often both said emotion contributes heavily to the ried in the majority of the department fashion director and senior vice president, asked to bring it back in the original colors women buying shoes of this caliber — and in store’s doors. “He’s out of the new guard Charlotte Olympia is one of the “next big, it came in several seasons ago, and she said the end, what she’s looking for is newness. and into the established emerging de- most important footwear names” in the in- her collections always have a “Victorian “What Blahnik did with ‘Sex and the City’ signer category,” Kanfer said. dustry right now. The department store has bootie in there somewhere.” was bring a heightened awareness of de- As for the “new guard,” one of the fast- been a strong supporter of the line for sev- Like Simmons, Alexandre Birman’s pre- signer footwear, and very early on Louboutin est-growing labels is two-year-old Aperlaï, eral seasons — styles such as the whimsi- dominantly exotic-skin footwear business was involved with putting designer shoes on a French brand designed by Alessandra cal 6-inch Dolly pump with a floating gold has grown about 25 percent in the past year, runways,” he added. “They’ve paved the way Lanvin and known for its architectural, el- platform are carried in 26 Neimans doors the U.K. being the fastest-growing market. for young talents to express themselves and egant silhouettes with unexpected details, and on neimanmarcus.com — and although The Brazilian native told WWD that he’s play in the arena of fashion footwear.” GL BAL SOURCING LEADING THROUGH CHANGE

OCTOBER 12, 2012 // NYC

ADDITIONAL SPEAKERS INCLUDE:

Kevin M. Burke American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA)

Jerry Cook Hanesbrands Inc.

Edwin Keh The Wharton School, University of Pennsylvania

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SPONSORED BY: 6 WWD MONDAY, JULY 23, 2012 THE NEW CEO

WHAT IT TAKES IN

TODAY’S WORLD {Continued from page one} the leadership requirements of continuity and someone who changing because the brick- ternal candidates. management of the company. the future, as their companies knows the business model and and-mortar retailer now has In the past, a headhunter ’’ I would say that the Armani and sectors are changing so knows the culture, there’s less to focus on brand as well as would just go out and do the Group is in excellent hands.” quickly and so dramatically. risk associated with it. The prob- the Web. On top of this, they’ve search, but now the better-run Armani also remains disin- Saporito recalled the Sixties, lem is if you haven’t cultivated absorbed verticalization and companies are planning ahead. clined to list his company, seek when his team did a lot of work leadership. If your company has globalization. Therefore, the “What happens is the talent a partner or sell to an invest- with automobile executives. “We changed so dramatically, you classic merchant-and-operator gets more finite each year,” ment fund, for “one very simple used to describe them as ‘high haven’t prepared people for a leadership model has to be ad- Lenga added. “It makes it even reason: absolute independence. speed, low torque.’ When the new model, then you have to go justed to take into account this harder to bring in a great ceo. If

It is the element on which I road was straight and flat and to the outside. Usually going to enormous change,” added Les you plan ahead and think out- have built my business and the not particularly winding, they the outside signals a failure of Berglass, founder and ceo of side the box, it’s a little better. last that I am willing to give up.” were great executives. When development of talent,” he said. Berglass + Associates. He said Boards are a little more com- Elsewhere on the high- the road started turning with big Levi Strauss & Co., for exam- the new leader not only has to fortable with that process than profile ceo circuit, a search is bends, they were out of their el- ple, went outside when it named have the sophistication but also just doing a search cold.” She said to be on for an eventual ement,” he said. “That’s what’s Chip Bergh president and ceo the vision to see around the cor- explained that if a ceo is not

successor to Lew Frankfort, 66, happening in many industry last year. Bergh had previously ner. “This business burns over ready to go yet, you identify the at Coach Inc. Sources say Coach sectors because the world is been group president of Procter product much faster than a clas- candidates and do a thorough has hired Spencer Stuart to changing so rapidly. You’ve got & Gamble’s global male groom- sic packaged goods company,” background check so when the evaluate candidates, although different forms of competition. ing unit. “It’s a great example of he explained. board is ready to find a new there is evidently no specific At retail, you’ve got online and a company that had failed to cul- Berglass feels that today’s ceo, they have a very good un- time frame. Spencer Stuart de- changing consumer buying pat- tivate the kind of talent because ceo needs a combination of derstanding of the landscape. clined comment. terns. The kind ’’ of leadership the world was changing dramati- skills. “ Yo u need the structure “It’s hard sometimes to get Transitions, orderly or oth- — intellectual agility, being able cally and it was losing market that comes from classic brand used to the way the new world erwise, abounded in recent to think and formulate strategy share and it went to the outside.” management, coupled with the is going and thinking. Yo u used months. In December, Andrea to think the only people who Jung, facing problems in major could do retail jobs are retail- overseas markets, weakness in ers, and it’s changed.” Avon’s U.S. business, and an SEC If you’re recruiting for a investigation into allegations of pure play, for example, you’d bribing foreign officials and im- look at pure-play companies. “I properly disclosing information can’t tell you how many board to Wall Street analysts, said she searches I’m working on today would step aside as ceo of Avon where they all want that digi- Products Inc. and transition into tal [experience],” Lenga said. the role of executive chairman. “From a digital perspective, the In April, the company named age of the active ceo’s or the top Sheri McCoy, who joined the people in the organization are beleaguered direct seller from much younger than the board. It Johnson & Johnson. Kellwood was hard for boards to get used Co. went six months without a to having these young, aggres- ceo while the firm undertook The kind of leadership — intellectual agility, being able sive people on their boards. But a search to replace Michael that’s who this business is made Kramer, who abruptly resigned to think and formulate strategy beyond one’s experience, up of. They’re a younger group to become chief operating officer of executives. These are people at J.C. Penney. In May, Jill Granoff being able to shape a company and culture that thinks who are going on boards and was named ceo of Kellwood being considered for ceo roles. after two candidates report- There’s a huge shift going on.” edly turned down the position. and acts in a more agile way — is going to be the difference Lenga contends that the Warnaco Group Inc. experienced majority of ceo’s do a good job a smooth transition when Helen between ceo’s who make it and those that don’t. grooming people inside their McCluskey succeeded Joseph ranks. Most ceo’s, she said, want Gromek as ceo in February. And — Thomas J. saporiTo, rhr inTernaTional their second-in-command to just last month, Michael Francis, take over for them if possible. president of J.C. Penney, clashed beyond one’s experience, being There’s no question an un- need to have vision, see around “In their heart of hearts, they’d with ceo Ron Johnson over mar- able to shape a company and derstanding of digital tech- corners and react immediately. like that because they spent the keting strategy, and Francis found culture that thinks and acts in nology is having an impact on This combination is a challenge time grooming people for that. himself out the door after eight a more agile way — is going to the type of ceo being sought. to find in one person. The key But sometimes the organization months on the job. be the difference between ceo’s According to a recent Ad Age is to find someone to respect just doesn’t have it. Sometimes So what does the face of the who make it and those that study, the U.S.’ largest advertis- the need for the vision and sur- the ceo might think that individ- new ceo look like? don’t. Finding someone who ers, namely Procter & Gamble round him or herself with peo- ual is there, but he’s not.” Thomas J. Saporito, chair- merely has a great track record Co., Unilever and L’Oréal, de- ple who can do it and gives them Melanie Kusin, vice chair- man of RHR International, within an existing industry sec- vote 10 percent of their ad bud- the freedom to do it.” man, board and ceo services a team of management psy- tor, such as retail, could have a gets to digital. Bobbie Lenga, who heads at Korn/Ferry International, chologists and consultants who lot of potholes in it.” “It’s a digital tsunami,” said the Global Consumer Sector at pointed out that hiring needs work with industries on such One critical issue facing com- Hal Reiter, chairman and ceo of Russell Reynolds Associates, vary from company to company, issues as ceo succession, said panies is getting the board and Herbert Mines Associates. “ Yo u said the rise of’’ omnichannel making it difficult to general- that search firms will seek can- ceo aligned around what really need to get a guy who’s man- retailers is having a major im- ize. “Some companies like to didates with stellar, up-and- has to change. “If they’re not aged it or is open to it and is pact on the candidates they’re home-grow their talent. Coach coming track records, but at the aligned, then it breaks down progressive-thinking. Yo u can’t seeking. “One of the big dif- would have different needs than end of the day, the difference from there. You have to get them get anyone over 40 who grew up ferences is the ability to be an American Eagle or Levi’s.” between those who succeed and on the same page on what’s in it. They simply don’t exist.” omnichannel ceo. It’s not just Since the recession, many re- those who don’t comes down to the new strategy and the pace Reiter also said having in- e- commerce, there’s digital and tail and fashion companies have fit. This is especially true in an of change,” Saporito added. ternational experience is im- social media. How do you inte- thinned the ranks of manage- industry sector that is undergo- Some ceo successions require portant, but that’s an expertise grate that into your business ment, cutting back on training ing dramatic change. a change in culture. “ Yo u can that can be brought in from the and how do you grow that?” programs and leadership devel- “The onslaught of online is change people out, but the DNA outside. “Ralph Lauren hired Lenga pointed out that opment programs. Interestingly, changing the kind of business of a company, you don’t change Daniel Lalonde [president of Russell Reynolds has been Macy’s Inc. recently hired 700 strategy and leadership profile that overnight. It’s usually a Ralph Lauren International], doing a lot of succession plan- young people, which in this day that flows from that in terms of two- or three-year process.” he’s an international guy. Yo u ning. “[The ceo] may not be and age is highly unusual. “That people ready for the future,” Statistics, Saporito observed, support your deficiencies with retiring for another two years, is volcanic in the recognition of said Saporito. He recently con- overwhelmingly show that the great hires,” Reiter explained. they want to go through that needs for the future of Macy’s,” ducted research that concluded success of an insider taking over A great leader, he added, is still process,” she noted. The typi- said Reiter. “This is an exciting the major challenge for ceo’s the ceo role far surpasses that “somebody who listens.” cal board, she said, generally new era of recognition that tal- and their boards is figuring out of an outsider. “When you have “The leadership model is weighs both internal and ex- ent doesn’t really exist in the

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senior ranks, and they’re now and went with the internal can- candidate, who was the same tion. If you come up short on ei- cultures. looking at the next generation.” didates, whom they initially pro- age as Joe. When you’re General ther, I don’t think the future is Karen Harvey, president Berglass doesn’t think fashion moted to chief operating officer. Electric and you’re thinking bright for you or your company.” of Karen Harvey Consulting and retail companies are orient- “The research will show that [about] who could succeed Jack Celeste Goudas, ceo of 24-7, Group, said, “What boards are ed toward succession planning. the internal candidate has been Welch and you’re a $50 billion an executive recruitment firm, recognizing is that these are He observed that during a reces- outperforming [external candi- company, you’re going to have said only about 20 percent of her complex companies and glob-

sion, the problems are amplified dates] in terms of shareholder multiple candidates and then 500 to 600 clients have any kind al organizations, and a lot of because training, in general, is return. Having said that, there’s it’s a different process.” of true succession planning. “It very good executives we have curtailed and leaders become a time that you need an exter- Paul Charron, senior adviser should almost be changed from groomed in North America involved in the here and now, nal candidate because you’re in at Warburg Pincus LLC, who succession planning to succes- are not groomed holistically and what happens five years such a turnaround,” Perrin said. serves as executive chairman of sion development,” she said. to handle the complexity of into the future loses importance. “Either the board has not done the board of Campbell’s Soup and Some of the European firms, the back end, as well as hav-

“Companies now have to plan a good job with succession plan- was a former chairman and ceo such as LVMH and PPR, have ing the vision to drive the front for the future and project five ning, or you’re in a turnaround of Liz Claiborne Inc., has dealt these programs in place, but end.” The ante, she said, has years down the road and project and it’s very difficult for an in- with succession issues firsthand, not many U.S. fashion firms do. gone up tremendously. “We are those changes,” said Berglass. ternal candidate to make the both at Claiborne and in his role “When a company has a succes- likely to look at an organiza- While some ceo transitions kind of changes that are neces- at Campbell’s. The succession- sion plan, it has a better suc- tion and company that have are rockier than others, one sary.” The board, he noted, is re- planning process is certainly cess rate of bringing in ceo’s provided mobility for their ex- company that experienced’’ a sponsible for grooming the ceo, one of the important roles of the from outside fashion and retail. ecutives so they have had the smooth handover this year was figuring out the strategic plan board, he said, recalling that in For years, companies such as opportunity to live in multiple Warnaco Group Inc. In February, and determining what kind of the Eighties and early Nineties, LVMH have been bringing in tal- markets and multiple cultures, Helen McCluskey succeeded leadership a company needs. “sitting ceo’s had an awful lot to ent from Procter & Gamble and and so they are not solely ‘cen- Joseph Gromek. The company “Companies need different say about who succeeded them.” other consumer goods compa- tric’ in one market.” had identified McCluskey sev- kinds of leaders at different But now, with shareholders de- nies.” Goudas said if companies Elaine Hughes, president of eral years ago and worked with points of time, and match that manding more oversight and don’t have these development E.A. Hughes & Co., said com- her to get the experience and internal candidate against ex- more outside directors, the cur- programs in place, when they panies are required to do their

training necessary to assume the ternal candidates to see what’s rent ceo’s are not as directly in- bring in a ceo from outside, cul- quarterly due diligence on suc- ceo role. “With Helen, we always the best way forward,” Perrin volved in those discussions. ture clashes are inevitable. cession planning, but very few thought she’d be an outstanding said. There are always trade- “The biggest difference I’ve Skills that have always been in companies actually do it. VF candidate,” said Charles Perrin, offs with an external candidate seen is what I would describe demand are functional ones, such Corp. is diligent about it and sel- non-executive chairman of over an internal one. “The rea- as the amalgamation of the as finance and marketing, and at- dom recruits from the outside. Warnaco. “We did focus on try- son you go to the outside is two- ceo and chief operating officer tributes such as leadership, intel- Hughes said the ceo succession

ing to get her as many varied ex- fold: The board’s done a lousy roles. Historically, the ceo has lect, integrity and vision, she said. from Mackey McDonald to Eric Wiseman was seamless. At Jones Financial, digital and global expertise are Group Inc., president Richard among the requirements for today’s ceo. Dickson was hired from the out- The era of the side, as was William McComb at Liz Claiborne Inc. (now Fifth & ’’ Pacific Cos. Inc.) regal ceo from Hughes explained that part of succession planning is to groom the Eighties and executives from within and give them rotating experiences to Nineties is over. learn various aspects of the busi- ness. Companies like General Electric rotate their executives I applaud the through different departments and assess their progress as they

change. images gather the skills to do the job. — Charles perrin, “What you fall prey to is the getty recycled ceo,” Hughes said. WarnaCo. “ Yo u become a ceo and you get your ticket punched and get photo by called without anybody finding periences as we could to be in a job in succession planning, or “I think you have to add more out what you accomplished in position [so] that when we made the problems are so dramatic skills today to that traditional list. the prior job.” that choice, she would be as that you want an outsider to It’s a digital We’re dealing in this complex, Hughes also argued that you strong a candidate as she could.” come in and shake things up. global environment. The reces- can’t expect an executive to Perrin said succession plan- It’s much easier for an outsider tsunami. You sion has sped up or heightened parachute into a job and already ning should be number one on to make those dramatic changes the pace of globalization.” be trained. Companies such as the list of things a board of di- than it is for an insider.” And in a global economy, new J.C. Penney, Macy’s, Gap Inc. and rectors needs to do. “Every year, Do boards need to be look- need to get a guy skills come into play. “One skill Liz Claiborne had training pro- we’d go through succession plan- ing for people even if a ceo is cross-culture communica- grams at one time and people ning for the ceo and other top po- hasn’t stated his or her inten- who’s managed it tion. It’s being able to adapt to were evaluated. If you didn’t cut sitions,” he said.’’ When it comes tion to retire? an ever- changing work environ- it, you were out of a job. “It’s few to succession planning, one of “People get in accidents, or is open to it and ment, whether it’s technology, ge- and far between, with a few ex- the changes he has seen in the there are health issues. ography, culturally different peo- ceptions,” said Hughes, citing VF past five to 10 years is that the Succession planning isn’t just ple, language…all those nuances Corp., Loewe’s and Costco as ex- center of power has shifted from your ceo is getting close to re- is progressive- an executive needs to bring to amples of companies that move the current ceo to a governance tirement age. It’s an ongoing the table,” Goudas said. “The people from within the ranks. committee or search committee. process. Yo u should be doing thinking. You other piece is that executives Hughes believes Terry “The era of the regal ceo from it all the time,” said Perrin. need to wield digital influence. Lundgren, chairman and ceo the Eighties and Nineties is over. “When you have a founder-ceo, can’t get anyone They need to be effectively using of Macy’s, has done “an excel- I applaud the change,” he said. it’s a tougher situation. Let’s say online networks. They need to lent job” developing key people “I think boards surprisingly you have a founder-ceo who out- see the digital picture. And, they on his team. She said at Kohl’s don’t do [succession planning] lives his ability to manage the over 40 who grew must have laser focus.” Corp., Larry Montgomery had well. They need to make sure company. A lot of people have For years, recruiters have Kevin Mansell. One company they prioritize it and have a pro- the entrepreneurial talent to up in it. They tapped into other industries for that went outside for its ceo was cess,” Perrin said. “It is about initiate that new business, but top fashion executives. Goudas J.C. Penney, which named Ron the ceo, but it’s not limited to the when it comes to any kind of simply don’t exist. explained that for more than a Johnson. Johnson brought a mix ceo. You should be looking at the scale, are not good at running generation, wholesale and re- of department store, mass-mar- chief financial officer. Yo u just it. That potential friction be- — hal reiTer, herberT tail companies haven’t recruited ket and specialty experience, the can’t continually be going to the tween the founder-ceo, who may mines assoCiaTes enough top talent from colleges latter of which was gained at the outside. There’s a cost to doing control 20 percent, what do you and business schools. That tal- highly successful development that. At Warnaco, we have a suc- do about it? Yo u have to have a ent was often drawn to the likes of Apple retail. Hughes thinks cession planning process that is strong board and an open dia- been charged with charting the of McKinsey & Co., Goldman Coach has been doing a good job worked through by management logue with that founder-ceo. But course and providing the vision. Sachs and Google. “I think we in creating a bench, pointing to and once a year discussed by the to not talk about it and not plan In many companies, the chief lost a lot of that bench strength Victor Luiz, president of Coach compensation committee and on that situation is not good.” operating officer was charged by not recruiting out of the busi- International Retail and Michael the full board; [it] details the Perrin believes it takes a few with bringing that vision to life ness schools,” Goudas said. The Tucci, president of the retail di- top 15 to 25 people in the orga- years to groom a successor prop- and executing [it],” Charron pure e-commerce plays are vision, North America. nization, those jobs, who are we erly. “It’s not six months. It’s said. “Today, that vision without able to reach more into Silicon And yet some of the industry’s grooming to succeed them. It’s three or four years, making sure execution and execution with- Valley for talent. And without most successful retailers have pretty time consuming.” that person gets multiple expo- out vision is a lose-lose. There’s organized leadership programs become so identified with their Perrin, who also sits on the sures, experiences. We were giv- much less margin for error. there will continue to be a principals, operating without board of Campbell’s Soup, was ing her [McCluskey] added re- Boards are much more demand- dearth of talent among fashion’s them is almost unimaginable. recently involved with two suc- sponsibilities, involvement with ing, shareholders’’ are much less management ranks, she said. “Does Mickey Drexler [of J. cession plans at the same time. shareholders and a larger role patient and oversight is much Headhunters also point out Crew] have a successor? No,” Both Campbell’s and Warnaco internally. Being a small com- more apparent. Regardless of the importance of moving ex- Hughes noted. “Does Mike used external search firms, went pany, we didn’t have multiple what the title says, you have to ecutives around and exposing Jeffries [of Abercrombie & through a long list of candidates candidates. We had one other have the vision and drive execu- them to different markets and Fitch]? No.”

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8 WWD monday, july 23, 2012 WWD.COM Swiss Watches Exports Rise timepieces costing more than 3,000 francs, By Katya Foreman or $3,140, rose 34.4 percent in value terms, maintaining their strong momentum. Bolstered By robust sales of gold swiss watch exports to Hong Kong and timepieces, swiss watch exports in- the U.s. recorded above-average increases, creased 21.7 percent in June in value up 28 percent and 23.8 percent, respectively. terms, representing the strongest month- Citing tough comps, China continued ly growth of the first half. to post slower growth, with a sales de- Foreign sales of swiss watches in the cline of 22.6 percent versus the equiva- month totaled 1.9 billion swiss francs, lent year-ago period, though business or $1.98 billion at average exchange for in the first half remains well above 2011 the period, the Federation of the swiss levels, the federation said. Watch Industry said today. europe “bounced back,” carried by a total sales in the first six months rose strong performance from Germany, which 16.4 percent year-over-year, surpassing the posted a 64.6 percent increase in sales. 10 billion swiss franc mark, or $10.46 billion. In a recent report on the swiss watch a slowdown in growth is expected at industry, Citi research downgraded the end of 2012. swatch to “neutral” from “buy,” citing the volume of timepieces exported fell swatch’s “recent cautious comments on in relation to June 2011, the federation China/high-end segment and the ongo- said, dragged down by a 9.1 percent de- ing underperformance of the midrange cline in sales of watches costing less than segment at swiss watch industry level” A rendering of Vacheron Constantin’s Paris boutique set to open in December. 200 francs, or $210. By contrast, sales of among factors. Vacheron Constantin Eyes U.S. Alexis Bittar Names Eileen Prince By alexandra steIGrad Juan-Carlos alexIs BIttar Has appointed eileen approach with fine jewelry launching Torres Prince as president of sales and market- first and handbags to follow,” Bittar standInG BeFore a podium, in a gild- ing at alexis Bittar llC. told WWd. ed room in the French embassy here last according to Bittar, the brand has Prince will spearhead branding week, Juan-Carlos torres, chief executive been preparing to enter the fine jew- and marketing initiatives in her now officer of Vacheron Constantin, pondered elry, handbag and timepiece categories role, as well as strategically launch the unique position of his brand. since san Francisco-based equity firm the new categories domestically and since he took over as ceo in 2005, tsG Consumer Products acquired a 50 globally. torres has not only pushed to expand the percent equity stake earlier this year Prince spent the past five years as brand’s physical presence but also the po- — and Prince was brought on board to marc Jacobs accessories vice president sition it holds in the minds of consumers. oversee this growth. of sales, and prior to that served as sales Introducing Brigitte lefèvre, direc- “the expansion has been in the director for michael Kors accessories tor of the Paris opera Ballet, torres works since the announcement with from 2004 to 2007. spoke about the natural link of “move- partnering with tsG. It will be a staged  —RACHELSTRUGATZ ment” instrumental to timekeeping and dance, in a speech meant to fete the return of the Paris-based group to LEGAL NOTICE LEGAL NOTICE the U.s. after a decadelong absence. IN THE UNITED STATES BANKRUPTCY COURT such Claim or Interest. For any vote to accept or reject the Plan to FOR THE DISTRICT OF DELAWARE be counted, a Ballot to accept or reject the Plan must be actually a longtime sponsor, Vacheron hopes In re: ) Chapter 11 received by the Voting Agent by the Voting Deadline. In accordance that the move brings awareness to the Filene’s Basement, L.L.C., et al., ) Case No. 11-13511 (KJC) with the Solicitation Procedures, all Ballots must be returned to Debtors.1 ) Jointly Administered the Voting Agent at: Creditor Ballots (Syms Classes 3, 4, and 5) French group and the swiss firm. NOTICE OF ORDER (I) APPROVING DISCLOSURE (Filene’s Classes 3, 4, 5, and 6): Kurtzman Carson Consultants, “It’s not enough to be the oldest STATEMENT; (II) APPROVING BALLOT SOLICITATION LLC, Re: Syms Corp., et al., 2335 Alaska Avenue, El Segundo, CA manufacturer in the world,” torres told AND TABULATION PROCEDURES, KEY DATES AND 90245, Attn.: Voting Department; Shareholder Ballots (Syms DEADLINES RELATED THERETO, FORMS OF BALLOTS, Class 7) (Beneficial Owner Ballots to be returned to Nominee): WWd after the event, explaining the AND MANNER OF NOTICE; AND (III) FIXING DATE, Kurtzman Carson Consultants, LLC, Syms Corp. Class 7 Interests importance of the american consumer. th TIME AND PLACE FOR CONFIRMATION HEARING AND Balloting, 599 Lexington Avenue, 39 Floor, New York, NY 10022. “We want to have a real push here.” DEADLINE FOR FILING OBJECTIONS THERETO 7. Objections to the confirmation of, or proposed modifications TO ALL CREDITORS, INTEREST HOLDERS AND to, the Plan, if any, must (a) be in writing, (b) state the name and the swiss watchmaker, which opened store in taiwan, and it plans to open a PARTIES IN INTEREST, PLEASE TAKE NOTICE THAT: address of the objecting party and the nature of the claim or interest its first U.s. boutique on madison avenue second store in Hong Kong in october, of such party, (c) state with particularity the basis and nature of 1. On July 13, 2012, the United States Bankruptcy Court for the in new york in september, is ramping up as well as its first stores in Paris in District of Delaware entered an order (the “Disclosure Statement any objection or proposed modification, and (d) be filed, together and Solicitation Procedures Order”) approving, among other with proof of service, with the Court and served so that they are its U.s. expansion efforts. december and london early next year. things: (i) the Disclosure Statement With Respect to Second actually received no later than 4:00 p.m. prevailing Eastern next month, it will unveil a boutique moving into Western europe, Amended Joint Chapter 11 Plan of Reorganization of Syms Time on August 21, 2012 (the “Objection Deadline”) by all of the Corp. and its Subsidiaries, dated July 13, 2012, (as same may be following parties (the “Notice Parties”): (i) Syms Corp., et al, One in las Vegas, followed by a store in los where Vacheron has only two stores, amended or modified, the “Disclosure Statement”), as providing Syms Way, Secaucus, New Jersey, 07904, Attn: Laura Brandt, Esq.; angeles’ south Coast Plaza in november. both of which are in its hometown of (ii) counsel to the Debtors, Skadden, Arps, Slate, Meagher & Flom, adequate information for holders of claims against and interests rodeo drive will get a store early next Geneva, is a strategic way to attract in the Debtors to make a decision as to whether to accept or reject LLP, One Rodney Square, Wilmington, Delaware 19801, Attn: the Second Amended Joint Chapter 11 Plan of Reorganization of Mark S. Chehi, Esq. and Skadden, Arps, Slate Meagher & Flom, year, as will miami in 2014. Chinese tourists. due to favorable ex- Syms Corp. and its Subsidiaries, dated July 13, 2012, co-proposed LLP, Four Times Square, New York, New York 10036, Attn: Mark “If you ask what’s the best brand, change rates, torres said more and jointly by the Debtors and the Official Committee of Syms Corp. A. McDermott, Esq.; (iii) counsel to the Official Committee of Equity Security Holders (as same may be amended or modified, the Unsecured Creditors, Hahn & Hessen LLP, 488 Madison Avenue, in america, everyone will say Patek more Chinese tourists are buying “Plan”), and (ii) the procedures for the solicitation and tabulation 15th Floor, New York, New York 10022, Attn: Mark T. Power, Philippe,” torres said, noting that in watches from retailers in europe, like Esq. and Janine M. Cerbone, Esq. and Richards, Layton & Finger, of votes to accept or reject the Plan (the “Solicitation Procedures”). China, Vacheron is front of mind even tourneau, Wempe and Cellini. 2. The Solicitation Procedures contain special balloting P.A., One Rodney Square, 920 North King Street, Wilmington, instructions and solicitation and tabulation procedures. ALL Delaware 19801, Attn: Michael J. Merchant, Esq.; (iv) counsel to if its sales are lower than competitors nonetheless, with luxury brands CREDITORS AND SYMS SHAREHOLDERS AND THEIR the Official Committee of Syms Corp. Equity Security Holders, such as Patek and rolex. “to be num- such as Burberry and tiffany & Co. cit- COUNSEL SHOULD REVIEW THE SOLICITATION Munger, Tolles & Olson LLP, 355 South Grand Avenue, 35th PROCEDURES CAREFULLY. Floor, Los Angeles, California 90071, Attn: Thomas B. Walper, ber one is not about the turnover,” he ing a slowdown in China, and houses 3. The Disclosure Statement and Solicitation Procedures Order Esq. and Seth Goldman, Esq. and Morris Nichols Arsht & Tunnell said. “the idea is to become the alter- such as richemont, lVmH and PPr LLP, 1201 N. Market Street, P.O. Box 1347, Wilmington, Delaware requires that votes to accept or reject the Plan must be actually native to Patek in america.” curbing their expansion in the region, received by Kurtzman Carson Consultants, L.L.C. (the “Voting 19899, Attn: Robert J. Dehney, Esq.; and (v) the Office of the Agent”) no later than 5:00 p.m. prevailing Pacific Time on United States Trustee, J. Caleb Boggs Federal Bldg., 844 North the ceo explained that he “doesn’t Vacheron’s growth plan may seem a August 23, 2012, unless such time is extended in the sole discretion King Street, Room 2207, Lockbox 35, Wilmington, DE 19801, want to kill the competition,” but in- tad optimistic. those fears are backed of the Debtors (the “Voting Deadline”). Attn: David Klauder, Esq. Objections not timely filed and served 4. A hearing (the “Confirmation Hearing”) to consider the con- in the manner set forth above may not be considered and shall stead “grow with it.” In slightly more up by recent news out of China that its firmation of the Plan will be held at 1:00 p.m. prevailing Eastern be overruled. concrete terms, torres said he hopes gross domestic product has decelerat- 8. Any holder of a Claim that is not scheduled and is not the Time on August 29, 2012, before the Honorable Kevin J. Carey, to double american sales in less than ed to 7.6 percent in the second quarter, United States Bankruptcy Judge at the United States Bankruptcy subject of a timely filed proof of claim or a proof of claim deemed Court for the District of Delaware, 824 North Market Street, 5th timely filed with the Court pursuant to either the Bankruptcy Code three years. its slowest growth rate since the first Floor, Courtroom 5, Wilmington, Delaware. The Confirmation or any order of the Court or otherwise deemed timely filed under With 257 years under Vacheron’s quarter of 2009, when it registered 6.6 Hearing may be continued from time to time without further notice applicable law, shall not be treated as a creditor with respect to such other than the announcement by the Debtors of the adjourned Claim for purposes of (a) receiving notices regarding the Plan, (b) belt, the question is why the percent growth. date(s) at the Confirmation Hearing or any continued hearing, voting on the Plan or (c) receiving distribution under the Plan. richemont Group-owned brand is “Where there are Chinese, we are 9. Any party in interest wishing to obtain information about the and the Plan may be modified, if necessary, pursuant to section pushing to expand here now. strong,” torres said, brushing off the 1127 of the Bankruptcy Code prior to, during, or as a result of the Solicitation Procedures or copies of the Disclosure Statement, the Confirmation Hearing, without further notice to interested parties Plan or the Solicitation Procedures should (i) contact the Debtors’ the ceo offered that roughly 15 idea that a slowdown would materially other than by filing such modifications with the Court prior to the Voting Agent at (877) 606-7510 or [email protected], or percent of the firm’s sales come from impact sales. Confirmation Hearing or announcing any such modifications at the (ii) view such documents at the website maintained by the Debtors’ Confirmation Hearing. Voting Agent, at www.kccllc.net/filenes. All documents that are americans, which is disproportion- Part of the ceo’s reasoning has to 5. In accordance with the Solicitation Procedures, Solicitation filed with the Court may be reviewed during regular business hours ate considering it has only one store do with the fact that Vacheron’s entry (9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. weekdays, except legal holidays) at the Packages will be mailed to (a) all holders of Claims listed on the in the U.s. like many other watch price point is $20,000, and with the ma- Debtors’ Schedules, (b) all holders of Claims who have filed a United States Bankruptcy Court for the District of Delaware, 824 proof of claim by the Bar Date (or their counsel if the proof of claim North Market Street, Wilmington, Delaware 19801. brands, Vacheron sells the majority of jority of its wares reaching well into was filed by such counsel on behalf of the claimant), (c) each entity Dated: Wilmington, Delaware, July 23, 2012 / s / M a r k S . C h e h i its timepieces here through retailers the six figures, the brand’s clients are listed on the Schedules as a party to an executory contract or unex- Mark S. Chehi (I.D. No. 2855), Jason M. Liberi (I.D. No. 4425), pired lease with the Debtors, (d) Syms shareholders of record, (e) Skadden, Arps, Slate, Meagher & Flom LLP, One Rodney Square, such as tourneau. not as affected by minor fluctuations in the Office of the United States Trustee for the District of Delaware, P.O. Box 636, Wilmington, Delaware 19899-0636, (302) 651- But like most luxe brands, Vacheron the economy. (f) counsel for the Creditors’ Committee, (g) counsel for the Equity 3000, (302) 651-3001 -and- Jay M. Goffman, Mark A. McDermott, believes that China is a major oppor- “We will easily double our turnover Committee, and (h) each party that filed a notice of appearance Skadden, Arps, Slate, Meagher & Flom LLP, Four Times Square, with the Court and has not withdrawn such notice of appearance New York, New York 10036-6522, (212) 735-3000, (212) 735- tunity. With upward of 55 percent of its here,” torres said, returning his focus as of the date the Court entered the Disclosure Statement and 2000, Counsel for Debtors and Debtors in Possession revenue coming from Chinese consum- to the U.s. market. “maybe one day we Solicitation Procedures Order. 1 The Debtors and the last four digits of their respective taxpayer ers, Vacheron remains committed to at- will be number one in terms of turn- 6. Any holder of a Claim or Interest that the Debtors believe, identification numbers are as follows: Filene’s Basement, LLC in accordance with the Disclosure Statement and Solicitation (8277), Syms Corp. (5228), Syms Clothing, Inc. (3869), and Syms tracting asian shoppers. torres declined over, but in terms of respect, my tar- Procedures Order, is entitled to vote to accept or reject the Plan, Advertising Inc. (5234). The Debtors’ address is One Syms Way, to provide Vacheron’s annual revenues. get is that americans understand that has been mailed a Ballot and voting instructions appropriate for Secaucus, New Jersey 07094. last week the brand opened its first Vacheron Constantin is unique.”

w23a008a;10.indd 8 7/20/12 8:23 PM 07202012202401 RICHIE’S STITCHES: Nicole Richie begins to offer a peek at her collection for Macy’s. PAGE 11 Writer’s Credit NEW YORK — When Julie Delpy told her friend Alexia Landeau to write her own roles rather than wait for call backs, she really meant it. The two shared screenwriting duties on next month’s “2 Days in New York.” For more from Landeau on acting, writing and passing on the socialite life, see page 10.

PHOTO BY LEXIE MORELAND

Apparel occurred. The offi cial SEIZING THE DAY: It’s always diffi - outfi tter for Russian team cult to predict whether an actress MEMO PAD uniforms, Moscow-based Bosco — even an A-list one — will sell on OLYMPIC DREAMS DASHED: Do Sport, which has a deal in place a given magazine cover, but when not look for American Apparel through 2016, has not held Elle’s perfectly timed August on the medal stand in 2014 potential production talks with issue hit newsstands earlier this in Sochi. The company will American Apparel either. month with Katie Holmes, there was not produce any uniforms for The disavowal by the Russian almost no doubt it would fl y off Russia’s Olympic team after Olympic committee — and now shelves. The magazine, featuring all, admitted ceo Dov Charney on Charney — takes all the wind a sexier-than-normal Holmes in Friday. In fact, Russia had never out of the infl ated news story a black bra peeking out of her even considered it, despite that Russia’s Olympic teams white tank top, came out just days the many news reports that were contemplating U.S. apparel after the news hit that she would they were, following a July 16 production. That story gained divorce Tom Cruise. story in the New York Post that traction last week in the wake of Elle isn’t the only magazine publicized the claim. the political uproar over Ralph with good timing on its side. C After reviewing his e-mail Lauren outsourcing to China its Magazine shot Holmes for its communications, Charney told 2012 U.S. team uniforms, which September issue just seven days WWD the potential production will be worn for the opening and Juliet Ingleby shot by Sebastian Faena and styled by Carine Roitfeld. before she fi led for divorce and deal he talked up was for Russia- closing ceremonies in London. the interview took place only themed consumer merchandise, Most prominently, Diane Sawyer features model Juliet Ingleby previously posted on her site one day prior to her big an- not for offi cial team uniforms. of ABC’s “World News Tonight” dramatically enveloped in a a cropped, close-up shot from nouncement. Senior editor Kelsey “I’m not as well educated on — which has been fl ogging a billowing lavender veil and the fi rst issue of a model with McKinnon, who met with Holmes these Olympic matters as I regular Made in America series little else, walking through a broken nose — with the tag for the interview, said that while should be. I’m in the schmatta — reported the mythical Russian a cemetery trailed by a trio line “under construction” — the actress wasn’t bragging about business,” he explained with a preference for U.S. production of of black-clad attendants. as well as a video of models her fi ve-year marriage, she cer- disarming laugh. its Olympic apparel as fact on her Shot by Sebastian Faena and preening on a mirrored fl oor tainly didn’t seem to be standing Charney’s admission came newscast July 16. — DAVID LIPKE styled by Roitfeld, the image from a mock-up issue, also at the edge of a precipice, either. on the heels of WWD obtaining appears as an animated GIF lensed by Faena. The premiere “Going back over the tapes, there a statement from the Russian FIRST LOOK AT CR FASHION BOOK: on CRfashionbook.com, with issue of CR Fashion Book will were signs: Holmes was certainly Olympic and Paralympic Carine Roitfeld unveils the fi rst the veil moving in the breeze. hit newsstands on Sept. 13. very aware of herself, laying a Organizing Committee full fashion image from her Roitfeld is gradually building Roitfeld is planning a launch couple cards on the table but denying that any negotiations hotly anticipated CR Fashion hype for the release of her party for the title during New never showing her whole hand,” for uniforms with American Book online today. The spread semiannual magazine, having York Fashion Week. — D.L. {Continued on page 11} 10 WWD MONDAY, JULY 23, 2012

can’t fault someone for trying to and she was really just not in acting, you see as a woman, Alexia Landeau make a living.” that place: her mother had every year…you know, if you Landeau starred in Zoe died of cancer a few months think about all the girls who Cassavetes’ “Men Make before, she’d just had a baby, are ‘all of a sudden’ really well Women Crazy Theory,” and and I think she felt if she was known at twentysomething, had roles in “Moonlight left to her own devices she they’re all child actresses. Mile” and Sofia Coppola’s wouldn’t really be able to be Even Emma Stone moved to “Marie Antoinette,” as well ‘funny.’ She needed to address L.A. when she was like, 16, as in “2 Days in Paris,” her that her mom had passed away, with her mom.” new film’s precursor. In the she didn’t know how to.…I was It is not easy, Landeau sequel, set for release in early really there to keep it light.” continues, to start off as a August, Landeau will reprise The film begins with Delpy twentysomething seeking that her role as Rose, the gently putting on a puppet show same attention without those conniving, mostly sweet and a for her toddler, in which adolescent years pounding little selfish younger sister of she elegantly explains that the pavement. Delpy’s character. his grandmother has died. “There’s such a push-pull,

LEXIE MORELAND “Julie’s an only child,” Landeau’s character is because you can’t look like Landeau explains. “But I have represented in this puppet you want it too badly, but sisters. So I know what that show as a naked Barbie there’s a certain degree of PHOTO BY dynamic is like. And Julie with a pink hair bow, a nod effort it requires,” she says, in and I have a quite sisterly to Rose’s bohemian take an expression of frustration relationship — we’re really on nudism (which is later familiar to anyone who’s ever good friends but we sort of coupled with a fondness for avoided being labeled as a Rose’s Turn fight, there’s something quite marijuana and a romantic “try-hard.” “Sometimes you’ll juvenile about it.…We’re close, interlude in the bathroom of turn on an awards show and but we certainly get into it, her sister’s apartment). there’s always the first people ALEXIA LANDEAU knows the chief executive officer of which I think helped for the “I think she wanted someone on the red carpet, and you feel good advice when she hears it. Olympia Capital Group. The movie. Little underhanded who was a little bit more so badly, because you know “Julie [Delpy] always said, von Furstenbergs threw the comments that seem innocuous American, because it’s set in they are told to be there three ‘ Yo u know, you should write, couple a cocktail party at their to anybody else but to the New York,” Landeau says, and hours early — and I’m sure create roles for yourself, you apartment the night before person…yeah.” though she was born and raised that would be me, but you know shouldn’t be dependent on they married and accompanied Landeau delicately cuts in Paris, she is a New Yorker by you’ve got to want it so bad and the phone ringing,’ which was them on their honeymoon to a into her Dover sole before choice. She lives in Brooklyn really put yourself out there to really smart,” Landeau says, Bahamian isle, according to a clarifying: “But [‘2 Days in with de Castelbajac, whom she be trolling the red carpet three ensconced in a red velvet gossip item in the April 2, 1970, Paris’] — that was purely her. met while living in California, hours before.” banquette at La Grenouille, edition of The Palm Beach Daily I just want to make sure you and their young son. Landeau is set to star in where she is talking about her News. Alexia’s 2007 wedding to know that, before I take credit “New York felt like a good Cassavetes’ new film “The latest project, “2 Days in New artist Guilhem de Castelbajac for both and get her calling me compromise between Paris and Business,” which begins York,” which she cowrote with (son of designer Jean-Charles saying, ‘ Yo u bitch!’ ” L.A.,” the actress says. “I loved shooting in the late fall, Delpy and in which she stars. de Castelbajac) at her family’s “2 Days in New York” also L.A., but there’s no center to the and has been working with “I love this restaurant, my Normandy estate, the Haras stars Chris Rock as Delpy’s city, so you just drift. For some her writing partner, Jessica mom loves this restaurant,” de la Londe, was covered by live-in boyfriend, who is people that’s very liberating Goldberg, on a number of Landeau says admiringly of WWD and attended by such descended upon by a cast (me), for some people they feel projects: “Swimming Pool,” the famed Upper East Side guests as Tatiana and Diane von that includes Albert Delpy, very lost (my husband). which has Rosemarie DeWitt mainstay. “It’s very Jackie O, Furstenberg, Ione Skye, Delpy Landeau and her America- “I always wanted to be an and Will Forte attached and in very Ladies Who Lunch…the and Fernanda Niven. obsessed beau, played by actress,” Landeau continues, which Landeau will also star, food is beautiful, the lighting; Though Landeau makes no Alexandre Nahon, for a “but I always wrote a lot. My as well as an adaptation of the flowers are always perfect mention of ever considering a weekend visit from Paris. parents really wanted me to be the 2008 Argentinean film “A here, nobody’s too loud.” career as a socialite (and she High jinks ensue, much is lost a writer. They think acting is Boyfriend for My Wife.” Landeau, who only quite certainly has the credentials), in translation, and Delpy’s pathetic…that it’s hard and not “This was something I wasn’t carefully references her family, she doesn’t malign the practice, character sells her soul to gratifying.…I wasn’t allowed sure that I would be able to has an interesting one: Her noting that “now, as opposed to Vincent Gallo at an art show. to major in drama. My dad continue doing,” Landeau says of mother, Irith Federmann- when my mom was young, you “I think, initially, [Delpy] was like, ‘I’m not paying for a writing for the screen, her cutlery Landeau, is an Israeli can kind of cash in, all those had the skeleton, the idea for degree in drama.…That was a delicately paused midair over her philanthropist (the Federmann girls can get licenses and really the movie,” Landeau says of sort of tacit understanding that dessert. “And then we did it and family founded Dan Hotels, make money, with a handbag the film. “I think she felt a little we had, which I think I would the movie got sold and…it does an Israeli luxury hotel group); line in Asia or as a brand bit stuck because the movie do even with my own kids, feel good! Julie was right.” her father, Marc Landeau, is ambassador as a side gig.…You was supposed to be a comedy, I think that’s fair. But with — ALESSANDRA CODINHA

Benjamin Millepied and Amanda were expected to comment on gallery, then the pair wove Wells perform “Framework.” the administrative brouhaha their way through the crowd eye in the coming days. On Friday to conclude in the third afternoon, the director posted gallery in front of two large- a letter on the museum’s scale paintings by Bradford, Web site that read, in part: “Untitled” (2011) and “Ghost “It is essential that MOCA and Stooges” (2011). remain progressive and In between, the crowd at the forefront of change, listened to audio of Bradford as it always has been. The discussing his inspiration museum’s upcoming program for the collaboration. “I’ve is a response to and an always been interested articulation of the current art in spaces and how people and cultural landscape today.” move through them,” he As for Thursday night’s said as the dancers darted programming, a large crowd back and forth in a game of gathered in the museum’s tag through the crowd. The Grand Avenue galleries, where performance marked the the exhibit “The Painting premiere of Millepied’s L.A. Factory: Abstraction After Dance Project, described Warhol” is on view. They were as a collective that includes standing on Rudolf Stingel’s composer Nico Muhly, art FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE “Untitled” (2007-12), a white consultant Matthieu Humery, wall-to-wall carpet installed videographer Dimitri Chamblas WWD.com/eye. specifically for the exhibition. and producer Charles Fabius. At 7 p.m. sharp, the lights Together they conceive, went down and two people commission and present holding portable spotlights original programs exploring focused on dancer Amanda new ways to promote dance. Wells, who was clad in white Its first full-length theater Dance Dance, Institution cotton shorts and a tank top, program, commissioned and accompanied by a solo by Glorya Kaufman Presents violinist. As she pirouetted Dance at the MusicCenter WHILE LOS ANGELES’ the show must go on. of three site-specific dance and leapt through the first of Los Angeles, debuts on Sept. Museum of Contemporary “I’ve been in battle performances by Benjamin three galleries, the crowd, 22 and 23. Those who missed Art has recently come under before,” MOCA director Millepied’s L.A. Dance Project including a dressed-down “Framework” on Thursday fire after the ousting of its Jeffrey Deitch was overheard in collaboration with Los Natalie Portman, followed along. will have two more chances chief curator, Paul Schimmel, telling people at Thursday Angeles artist Mark Bradford. Millepied, dressed in white on Aug. 2 and 9 to catch the prompting the resignation of all night’s premiere of According to a museum cotton pants and a T-shirt, performances free of charge. the artists who sat on its board, “Framework,” a new series spokesman, Deitch and MOCA joined Wells in the second — MARCY MEDINA WWD monday, july 23, 2012 11 WWD.COM

meltdown. The event was attended by Condé Nast noted that the college several Japanese celebrities, including would also help “to set the cultural Fashion scoops artist Takashi Murakami, who previously agenda” with an in-house exhibition lent his works to Louis Vuitton; former space in the Georgian-windowed fa- soccer star Hidetoshi Nakata, and shoe de- cade. The space will be curated by signer Noritaka Tatehana. students, guest designers, stylists and create a physical space to foster — KELLY WETHERILLE fashion industry insiders. The college A $69 crepe dialogue between all fashion and will open in January. de chine accessories professionals, not only AFTER THE STORM: On Wednesday evening, — SAMANTHA CONTI and chiffon manufacturers but retailers [and] stu- Ralph Lauren’s Alfredo Paredes opened dress with dents,” explained Jean-Pierre Mocho, the doors to the home he shares with lace from the chairman of the rtw body. his partner, Brad Goldfarb. The occasion? Nicole Richie The steering committee consists of Summer cocktails and an introduction for Impulse 19 members including Bergé, ranging to the Hetrick-Martin Institute, which collection. from Balenciaga chief executive of- offers a safe haven for lesbian, gay, bisex- ficerIsabelle Guichot to Borletti Group ual, transgender and questioning youth president and associate director and is home of the Harvey Milk High Maurizio Borletti. School. The night’s flash storm passed The Fédération Française du Prêt just in time for guests like Francisco Costa, à Porter Féminin is a separate en- Sophie Theallet, Maria Cornejo, Ruffian’s tity from the Fédération Française Claude Morais and Brian Wolk, Harlan de la Couture du Prêt-à-Porter des Bratcher, John Bartlett, Valerie Steele and Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode, Bette-Ann Gwathmey to make their way to A top from the Sportiqe for Jockey collection. led by Didier Grumbach. the extensive terrace. — LAuRE GuILBAuLT Paredes, who sits on Hetrick-Martin’s JOCKEY’S POSITION: Jockey International board and cohosted the event with Inc., best known for underwear, is SPOTTED DOTTER: Yayoi Kusama made Charles Fagan, Steven Kolb and Pierre Rougier, broadening the sportswear side of its a rare public appearance at the felt it was important to get the fashion offering through a licensing deal with recently opened Tokyo outpost of crowd to become more familiar with the Sportiqe. Dover Street Market in Ginza on organization. Plus, he noted, the space The collection of Jockey-logo men’s Friday to celebrate the launch of her lends itself to entertaining. “I always like and women’s cotton T-shirts, tanks and collaboration with Louis Vuitton. having people over,” Parades said. hooded sweatshirts will be designed, The artist, decked out in her sig- — MARC KARIMZADEH manufactured and sold by Sportiqe, nature red and white polka dots, and is being introduced at this week’s performed one of her “happenings” GET THEM TO THE GREEK: The Condé Nast Project NYC trade show. Along with the in the gallery section of the store, College of Fashion & Design will open logo, the slogan “There Is Only One” which contains a life-size reproduc- on 16-17 Greek Street in London’s Soho appears on the garments, priced from tion of an elephant. After being in a new building to be designed by the $30 to $70. Fred Segal and Society Men wheeled in in a polka-dot wheel- architecture firm Feilden Clegg Bradley are among the specialty stores that will chair, she applied several round red Studios. The college will offer pay- sell the line. It will also be available at stickers to the elephant’s trunk, com- ing students a yearlong British Vogue sportiqe.com. pleting its spotted skin. fashion foundation course, as well as “We wanted to create a line for Later, in an event space on the 10-week intensive fashion courses and Jockey that’s cool, exciting and fun that top floor of Dover Street Market various M.A.-level courses. Susie Forbes, consumers can wear every day,” said Ginza, Kusama gave a talk in which former editor of Easy Living, is the prin- Jason Franklin, cofounder and principal she encouraged Japanese people to cipal of the college. of Sportiqe, which has previously RICHIE FOR MACY’S: As she readies fight for peace and love, even in the “It was always my ambition to have the partnered with the NBA, ESPN, her capsule collection for Macy’s, face of such hardships as last year’s college located within walking distance McDonald’s, Dave Matthews Band and Nicole Richie wants to get the buzz earthquake and resulting nuclear of Vogue House, the Condé Nast head- O.A.R. on products. “This partnership going well before the September quarters,” Forbes said. “Major refurbish- with Sportiqe creates a broader platform launch and has begun letting out ment is about to commence and we are for Jockey, taking the brand to a younger the sketches. There’s a definitive delighted to be working with Feilden consumer in a fashionable, relevant bohemian chic look to her Macy’s Clegg Bradley Studios, who have so much way,” said Jockey chief marketing officer collection, which emphasizes prints experience in the education sector.” Dustin Cohn. — D.M. and pieces with versatility. Richie’s line will be exclusive to Macy’s Impulse department catering to Millennials, and sold in about 100 Macy’s locations as well as on macys. com, beginning mid-September. — DAVID MOIN For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. WHO’S THE BOSS?: Former Yves Saint Laurent boss Pierre Bergé will lead a new steering committee created by the Maison du Prêt à Porter Féminin et des Accessoires. Spaces Located on the Rue Caumartin in Paris, the Maison was inau- COMMERCIAL gurated in January, an initiative REAL ESTATE of the Fédération Française du ADMINISTRATIVE / SALES ASST / FRONT DESK RECEPTION SALES DIRECTOR Prêt à Porter Féminin, or French Access Company seeks F/T reliable, Fashion fine jewelry designer located Federation of Women’s Ready-to- personable multi-tasker for quick- downtown NYC is seeking a person to paced showroom. Good computer skills develop and also oversee all sales to Wear, in English. “We wanted to Yayoi Kusama in Word, Excel & email. Responsible the stores. This involves trade shows, for phones, general office duties & working with existing accounts and Showrooms & Lofts correspondence. Fax res: 212-869-7811 seeking new ones as well. Must be or- BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS ganized, diligent & have a minimum Great ’New’ Office Space Avail FREELANCE ACCESSORY DESIGNER of 3 years sales experience in any con- ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 COUTURE INT’L HANDBAG CO. temporary related business. (Jewelry/Handbags). Proficient at de- Contact: [email protected] tailed tech pacs and 3D drawings. Cad MeMo pad cam a plus. Amazing growth poten- tial. Portfolio Req’d. Contact: Lexi 917 797-4840 | [email protected] SALES AND ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE {Continued from page 9} FOR WOMEN’S SLEEPWEAR LINE Seeking salesperson for discount McKinnon wrote. “Most noticeably, the PLANNER...... $ 90 -110 K chain stores & dept. stores. Must have one name decisively absent from her JCP, Target, Sears, K mart existing relationship with buyers. Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212 465 8300 Email Resume: [email protected] lexicon: Tom Cruise. She never actually [email protected] refers to him by name over pages and SEWING FACTORIES NEEDED pages of transcription.” When McKinnon Manufacturer looking for sewing facto- asked if having Suri brought the couple ries in NY Area - steady work! Dresses, sportswear - fast turning, quality ori- closer together, Holmes added, “I don’t ented factories able to produce popular know. I mean…I don’t know. People have priced garments. Contact: Sang 646- 366-7299| [email protected] been having babies a long time.” During this postdivorce press tour, Holmes has been talking less about relationships and more about acting PATTERNS, SAMPLES, (she’s been cast in a Broadway play) PRODUCTIONS and the fourth season of Holmes & Full service shop to the trade. Yang, her fashion brand that will show Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 at the Bowery Hotel in September. Holmes met Jeanne Yang through Cruise — Yang has been his stylist for years, (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] although one expects that relationship now likely to end. — AMY WICKS Katie Holmes on the cover of C.

w23a011b;8.indd 11 7/22/12 2:45 PM 07222012144607 Agriculture Software Data Innovations Fashion Advertising Sustainability

Stick with cotton and your customers will stick with you.

Research tells us that over half of all consumers would be dissatisfi ed if cotton were taken out of their favorite clothing. Plus, on average they’re willing to pay 25% more for T-shirts and 20% more for jeans to ensure that their clothing stays cotton rich. So if you’re thinking of substituting synthetics for cotton to keep your costs down, you may want to think again. After all, there’s a reason cotton is the fabric of our lives.

cottoninc.com

AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. Service Marks/Trademarks of Cotton Incorporated. © 2012 Cotton Incorporated. Source: The Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™ (www.CottonLifestyleMonitor.com) INCLUDING WWDSECTION II LEGWEAR INTIMATES

SOFT TOUCH UNCONSTRUCTED, FREE-SPIRITED INNERWEAR IS HAVING A BIG MOMENT.

ON THE WEB IN CHINA QSOCIAL MEDIA STRATEGIES WHAT’S SELLING NOW QLINGERIE GOES SKY-HIGH

➺ PHOTO BY FRANCK MURA ➺ MODEL: GILLIAN AT FORD MODELS EUROPE ➺ HAIR AND MAKEUP BY ONADA AT MARIE-FRANCE TAVONEKHAM/PARIS ➺ STYLED BY LAURENT FOLCHER

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD INTIMATES/UNDERCURRENTS Top of the Heap

WWD Intimates asked a few from the Hollywood set one question: What’s your favorite item of lingerie? KHAN; BREWSTER BY KSW KHAN; BREWSTER BY

“Calvin Klein bras fit me very well. I “Hanky Panky’s my favorite — that’s tend to be more of a T-shirt bra-type really all I wear. I’m not too fancy, girl. I also like On Gossamer if I want but maybe I should be.” to get fancy. And who can go wrong — Joy Bryant with Hanky Panky?” — Kristen Bell S FOR BURBERRY; KEMPER BY MICHAEL BUCKNER/GETTY IMAGES FOR NAEEM KEMPER BY S FOR BURBERRY;

“I don’t have a favorite lingerie item. I’m not well versed in that.” “I have a beautiful La Perla red lace — Ellie Kemper G-string with a tiny rhinestone buck- le right at the top of the crack with a red lace bra to match.” — Fran Drescher BRYANT BY STEVE EICHNER; PASTER BY STEFANIE KEENAN/GETTY IMAGE STEFANIE BY STEVE EICHNER; PASTER BY BRYANT

“My Malizia by LaPerla Water Bra enhances perfectly. It’s amazing.” — Jordana Brewster

“Spanx! I don’t do sexy underwear. Anyone who says anything else is so full of s--t. Who wants a lacy string up their ass all night?” — Kelly Osbourne D'AMORE BY JASON MERRITT/GETTY AMY GRAVES; D'AMORE BY IMAGES; BELL BY

“I have this Agent Provocateur piece that’s really beautiful. Actually, it doesn’t compare to the La Perla thing that I have. I’m engaged, so none of www.hanrousa.com this is slutty by any means, but Agent Provocateur is for when I want to “Agent Provocateur. All their black look like a rock star and La Perla is lacy bras and little panties.” when I want to look demure.” Please visit us at CURVENV in Las Vegas 8/21–8/23 — Jessica Paster — Caroline D’Amore and CURVENY in New York 8/5–8/7 OSBOURNE PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER; DRESCHER BY MICHAEL TRAN/FILMMAGIC; STEVE EICHNER; DRESCHER BY OSBOURNE PHOTO BY

4 WWD MONDAY, JULY 23, 2012

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WWD INTIMATES/UNDERCURRENTS MORE THAN A FEELING Western Express

IN 2008, CHINESE entrepreneur Dong Lu had ITALIAN LEGWEAR com- several epiphanies at once. One was that women pany Ori Industria SpA is in China, particularly young women, were becom- gearing up for a journey to ing if not more overtly sexual, definitely more North America. openly sexy, risqué and revealing in terms of Founded by Luciano their choice of dress. Gerevini in 1963 near Another was that China lacked lingerie Mantua in northern Italy, brands with sex appeal. Existing brands were the company, which is cur- either too conservative or too kinky for profes- rently headed by Marco sional women in their 20s and 30s. Gerevini (Luciano’s son), The third “aha moment” was that e-com- has signed an agreement merce was on the verge of exploding on the with the American firm mainland and that there was no single domi- Leg Resource Inc. for the nant player focusing exclusively on lingerie. distribution of its Ori and From this confluence emerged La Miu, China’s Immagine Italiana brands in largest online shopping platform for lingerie. the U.S. and Canada starting A look Similar to Victoria’s Secret, La Miu sells its own in August. from Ori’s branded products, which, according to Dong, a co- “Our company is focused on spring founder, are heavily influenced by Japanese style. creating products that combine collection. “We are not selling bras. We are selling a high quality with good value for sexy feeling — the sexy aspiration to young money,” said Ori Industria SpA women who want to be different,” Dong said. general manager Giovanna Mira, “Most Chinese companies are just selling prod- who cited Eastern Europe as the ucts. We are selling a feeling. This concept is company’s main market. very new in China.” Ori, which covers a mid-to-high Most of the products sell in the $15 to $20 segment of the market, offers a clas- range, although there are some items that are just sic line alongside seasonal collec- a few dollars. Overall, the merchandise is some- tions. For spring, the brand is focused what pricey, but accessible for the middle class. on romanticism, delivering stockings La Miu currently has more than 1 million cus- and thigh-highs with lace intarsia, tomers and sales have been growing 200 to 300 feminine patterns and light effects ob- percent every year since the site was launched, tained through the use of shiny fabrics. Dong said. It has raised about $30 million in in- Prices range from 15 euros, or $18 at vestment capital and is now starting to expand current exchange, for the more basic its presence offline with stores in Beijing and styles, to 100 euros, or $122, for silk mod- Shanghai. Dong said the company has been ap- els embellished with beads, Swarovski proached by foreign lingerie brands and hopes to Elements and lace. forge some partnerships in the near future to sell Positioned in the middle bracket lingerie from international players. of the legwear market, Immagine “Young people in China are really bold,” he Italiana includes products of the said. “We are targeting those people. It is a free same design quality, but featuring world right now for them. A lot of young girls less expensive fabrics, with wear red or purple or black bras under a white prices ranging from 5 to shirt. They say, ‘What is the point of wearing a 20 euros, or $6 to $24.

beautiful bra if nobody knows about it?’” — ALESSANDRA TURRA GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY — LARA FARRAR La Miu’s homepage.

Julie France’s slip with underwire Chic Shape detail.

EVER SINCE THE days of With the resounding sen- Jane Austen, women have timent, “This is not your been faking their figures with grandmother’s girdle,” undergarments. shapewear firms are not- And while the category ing a rise in sales across all has obviously progressed ages, with clientele includ- Yummie since the days of whale-bone ing high school prom-goers, Tummie’s constructions, modern slim- brides-to-be and yes, even slip with lace top. wear still remains a carefully grandmothers. Current best- Lady Princess’ concealed item. Yet the lat- selling trends, they report, quilted girdle. est wave of tummy-tuckers is include lace detailing, thin- begging to be shared. ner fabrics and camisoles “A lot of companies are and leggings that can be doing this new ‘shapewear worn as clothes. you can show,’ and I think it’s Still, as demand grows, great,” said Mia Holtzman, some companies are struggling sales and marketing manag- to balance the fashion and er at Julie France. “You can’t function elements of design. always dress in a way to hide “We have to make sure that everything from your neck it’s sexy so that when you take to your ankles. Sometimes, off your clothing you feel com- something is going to show.” fortable and confident wear- Panties Plus, parent com- ing it,” said Ranu Mukherjee, pany of the Kathy Ireland brand marketing manager and Lady Princess brands, at Dreamwear Inc., which has added decorative designs controls Bethenny Frankel’s to its garments, as opposed Skinnygirl Solutions. “But to the basic micro-fabrics you really have to be careful predominantly used in the about adding hardware or de- past. “Shapewear is worn as tails that you can actually see underwear today, so people through clothes.” want to feel good about [it] The ultimate goal for the same way that they do Skinnygirl? “To be sexy, and about the lingerie that they supportive, flirty fig- Kathy Ireland’s Slim Luxe wear,” said chief executive ure-flattering.” Skinnygirl Solutions’ bustier bodysuit. by MiMoi’s officer Abe Hanan. — LAUREN MCCARTHY lace-paneled underwear. cuffed bikini. GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTOS BY Bendon invites you to join us at Curve New York to view the Spring/Summer 2013 collections of:

Curve New York Booth 307 & 308 www.bendongroup.com US Showroom 212-696-4570 6 WWD MONDAY, JULY 23, 2012

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WWD INTIMATES

Stella McCartney’s polyamide lace and satin bra and panties. natural

Yasmine Eslami’s Eres’ polyamide polyamide and and elastane bra elastane bra and panties. and panties. WWD MONDAY, JULY 23, 2012 7

WWD.COM

Bodas’ polyamide and elastane tulle bra and panties.

INNERWEAR WITH A FREE SPIRIT IS ON THE RISE AGAIN. BY SAMANTHA CONTI wonders LET IT ALL hang out. Triangle bras, sheer fabrics and a natural- looking silhouette that doesn’t require underwire or padding are increasingly in demand, leading European brands, including Agent Provocateur, Eres, Bodas and Yasmine Eslami, to report an up- tick in sales of softer and less-constructed silhou- ettes. The reasons range from comfort to fashion and aesthetics to changes in the way women proj- ect their femininity. “For the past few seasons, there has been a very strong trend coming through for soft lingerie, for ‘no-bra bras,’ reminiscent of the Seventies, when women wanted to look top- less but with a tiny bit of support,” said Gillian Proctor, program leader for Contour Fashion at De Montfort University’s Department of Fashion and Textiles in Leicester, England. “It’s a little bit of a reaction to push-up, in- your-face breasts, and in a recession, people tend to want simpler pieces that are easy and comfort- able,” she observed. “It’s also a result of a sporty influence from the Olympics, and from all the layering that is going on in fashion.” Proctor added that soft styles are becoming

{Continued on page 8}

➺ PHOTOS BY FRANCK MURA ➺ MODEL: GILLIAN AT FORD MODELS EUROPE ➺ HAIR AND MAKEUP BY ONADA AT MARIE-FRANCE TAVONEKHAM/PARIS ➺ STYLED BY LAURENT FOLCHER 8 WWD MONDAY, JULY 23, 2012

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WWD INTIMATES

{Continued from page 7} “I love Seventies fashion. Ossie so popular — and demand so great Clark is an inspiration. The whole within the industry — that the uni- era was so chic and about freedom,” versity will, in July, offer a Bespoke she said. Vintage and Soft Lingerie design It’s the fashion customer, she course as part of its summer program said, who seeks out her soft bras. for industry professionals (rather “They’re not teenagers, and they’re than students). looking to wear it under sheer There is perhaps no greater ex- clothes or under a jacket.” Eslami, ample of the retro mood than Agent who worked for Vivienne Westwood Provocateur’s spring campaign, in- Red Label in London for many years, spired by the Seventies erotic films said it’s been “nice to get away from “Emmanuelle” and “The Story of O.” 18th-century cleavage, and not have In one of the campaign images, the boobs pushed together.” French actress Mylène Jampanoï is Not every woman can wear a soft pictured reclining in a wicker pea- bra with no underwire, but Bodas, cock chair — against a background of which has its own shop on London’s lush vegetation — clad in stockings Ledbury Road and sells at stores and suspenders. such as Barneys New York and Sarah Shotton, creative director of Fenwick in London, thinks it may have the answer. “A 36-C cup is already too big for Huit’s organic a soft, unstructured bra, so we’re cotton and cotton working to build a soft bra that can lace bra and accommodate larger cups,” said panties. Helena Boas, founder and co-owner of London-based Bodas. “We’re looking at how to add structure into the band and the shoulder, and whether to double the layers of fabric on the cup,” she said, adding that women with a wide range of body types are asking for the soft construction. Eres, another company known for its soft triangle bras in sheer fabrics, has already come up with ways to make the soft bra sturdier for larger cup sizes. “We sculpt the body with Lycra, fabrics and secret seams, and work very closely with the manufac- turers to develop strong but light- weight and thin fabrics,” said creative director Valérie Delafosse. Delafosse pointed out another rea- son behind the popularity of the soft bra: implants. “A lot of women with breast im- plants don’t wear an underwire bra, because it hurts. And what a woman wants from a bra in the end is to be comfortable, supported and sculpted,” she said. Harvey Nichols is one of the many retailers that has bought into the trend, stocking items including the Retro Sculpt triangle bra by Aubade. “This look is very sexy, which is a complete reaction against the whole padded bra and fake boobs,” said Priya Kumar, assistant buyer intimate apparel. “The soft bras and sheer Agent Provocateur, said she was in- fabrics give a more natural, effortless spired by Seventies issues of Playboy, look that is sexy in a more subtle way.” with their soft-focus images and Analysts at Stylesight, a multina- models who were “all about curves, tional company that offers forecasting a natural-looking shape and no fake and trend analysis for designers and boobs.” She said that among the best- brands, said the soft lingerie trend sellers this season have been the tri- is coming through loud and clear on angle bras that give a teardrop shape both sides of the Atlantic. and separate the breasts rather than Nivara Xaykao, the site’s intimates push them together. and swimwear editor, said that the “It’s trendy to be curvy now — even trend has been trickling down from celebrities have put a bit of weight on the runways, including the Marc and everything moves a bit more. Also Jacobs spring 2011 collection with its women are not exercising so much, Studio 54 feel and YSL influences. and a little wibble-wobble can be very “In the mainstream, we’re also see- sexy,” she said, adding that the soft- ing a lot of natural silhouettes in fes- lingerie trend also ties in with what’s tival dressing, like cropped camisole going on in makeup. tops,” she said. “Makeup is more natural. Women Her colleague Sharon Graubard, don’t feel the need to put on their war senior vice president of trend analy- paint anymore, and they wear their sis, said that for some women, the soft hair down — and wavy. The look is re- Seventies-inspired bra shapes have laxed, relaxing and very sexy,” she said. never gone out of fashion. Both Yasmine Eslami, who designs “A lot of Baby Boomers have lingerie under her own name, and clung to that silhouette. Forty years Bodas, the London label, have built on, the trend has come full circle…. their businesses on softly constructed The pinup girl is kind of moving lingerie. Eslami said she has always Princesse Tam away.…The look is less about trying referenced Guy Bourdin’s images of Tam’s polyamide so hard and more about the days Seventies Yves Saint Laurent and the and elastane when there were no boob jobs and brand’s then-signature look of a soft bandeau bra and no Brazilian waxes. The softer bras bra worn under a smoking jacket. panties. conjure that mood.”

10 WWD MONDAY, JULY 23, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD INTIMATES Hue The Great Bright Way ▲

TAKING A CUE FROM THE RECENT RUNWAYS, LINGERIE DESIGNERS ARE ADDING A HEADY DOSE OF NEON AND JEWEL TONES TO THEIR SPRING COLLECTIONS.

Hanky Panky Stella McCartney ▲ ▲

Soxland International ▲

K. Bell ▲

Hanro ▲

Deborah Marquit ▲ Lou Lingerie ▲

▲ Cass Luxury

▲ Shapewear Elle Macpherson Bjorn Borg ▲

PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE

coral, navy and marine blue. Mid-tone in all cotton or micro Modal blends. The What’s Selling Now blues and a range of berry shades are reason: comfort, especially during an expected to be strong this fall. Top uncommonly hot summer. prints include graphics and a range Regarding the slowly improving ON THE RETAIL FRONT, IT’S ALSO ALL ABOUT COLOR, COLOR, COLOR. of florals such as jungle-inspired foli- economy, retailers generally said stick- BY KARYN MONGET age and floral motifs, petite floral pat- er shock at the counter is abating and terns and a host of Impressionist paint- that consumers began stepping up their A GROWING DEMAND for lingerie and panties, continue to claim most of the erly prints. Also strong are multicolor purchases of fashion merchandise this sleepwear in bold, bright colors and business, several retailers privately ac- Missoni-inspired patterns, particularly spring. prints is creating an additional layer of knowledged second-quarter increases in daywear, retailers reported. Here, retailers reveal what’s driving business at retail this summer. of 3 to 10 percent or more in the fash- Key items include boy shorts, camis, summer innerwear sales. That’s the word from innerwear buy- ion arena. But even basics are getting long and short-slip gowns, and dual- Q Maureen Stabnau, senior vice ers at major department stores, special- a little spice: shades like steel gray, purpose lounge pieces with a casual president of merchandising at ty shops and e-commerce businesses, which used to be regarded as a fashion sportswear look that can be worn out- Barenecessities.com, said, “Across all where key items and specific classifica- color, are now part of the basic mix. side the home. brands, we are seeing color and prints tions are sparking an uptick in sales. Best-selling colors currently include As for fabrics, the number-one classi- becoming more important, and it’s While basics, especially bras and yellow, purple, turquoise, hot pink, fication is lightweight cotton knit, either {Continued on page 12}

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD INTIMATES What’s Selling Now

{Continued from page 10} ebbing in 2010 and is cur- adding a nice layer of rently no longer an issue. business. From Wacoal to “I’ve definitely seen a Calvin Klein and Hanky change in shopping pat- Panky, brands are making terns, but not so much for an effort to add more color A best- basics. Customers are and prints.” She pointed selling willing to spend on spe- to deep blue and purple as “happy” cial fashion pieces.” best-selling bra colors. print by Alvarado cited pur- “In sleepwear, business Natori. ple, turquoise, elec- is very good and I attribute tric blue, hot pink and it to knits worn in and out a range of citrus tones as of the home.…More ven- top-sellers. Key prints dors are adding core knits include a sheer leopard because it’s comfortable, pattern with coral ac- relaxing loungewear. cents in a bra-and-panty The category continues set by Mimi Holliday. Her to grow with brands like top selling lingerie brand DKNY, JP Salvage and is Cosabella. Calvin Klein.” Q Cheryl Sloane, co- Stabnau said a mul- owner of G Boutique ticolor Missoni-inspired in Chicago, also said cami and thong are Cosabella was her top among top sellers. “It’s brand. “We’re having been up a week and we’ve a really hot summer in had a 33 percent sell- Chicago and we’re selling through on the original a lot of cotton and cotton thong by Hanky Panky.” blends....Cosabella makes She noted price resis- a group called Dolce and tance “hasn’t gone away the boy shorts are incred- FOR MORE RETAILER totally, but we’ve definitely COMMENTS, SEE ible, soft and comfort- seen a trend toward spend- able.…In the summertime, ing more and splurging WWD.com/ when girls are wearing on more fashion bras like fashion-news. more skirts and dresses, Prima Donna, which re- the boy short is essential. tails for $90 or more, and Cosabella is all about color Marlies Dekkers, priced and I think they really hit it from $80 to $90.” this year with color that works in any Q Elaine Hunter, moderate bra buyer season, like Ultra Blue, a marine blue, at Macy’s, said, “Anything heathered and a grape shade they call Jelly.” or mixed media like a lace trim that’s Addressing the price issue, Sloane different from the bra color” has said, “I feel price panic is over and been a bestseller. people have settled into their budgets She cited the Custom Lift Bra by and know what [they can spend]. We Maidenform as a top-selling basic don’t sell as many $250 bras anymore, bra in terms of silhouette and “our but the average range is $78 to $90.” best sell-through in volume.” Q Janelle Kenny, marketing director As for overall trends, Hunter ob- at Sol, an upscale specialty store in served, “Abstract prints have done Cherry Creek North, Colo., cited the well as well as mid-tone blues, tur- Natori and Josie by Natori brands as quoise and gray, which was so good the retailer’s top-sellers. “Customers as a fashion color that we put it on love the bright and happy prints and replenishment. The top seller is Steel they’re drawn to the soft hand of Violet by Vanity Fair. Our tech busi- Modal knits in the collections,” she ness continues to be tremendous said, adding that price has not been — seamless bras in brights and sher- an issue for her store. bert colors….We continue to see color “We haven’t gone down in our being important for fall and we expect pricing during the recession…Our to continue seeing multiple sales.” number-one selling bra by Marie Jo Q At Amazon.com, a spokeswoman sells for $112, and bras by Andres said, “Wine, fuchsia and watermel- Sardas and Lise Charmel continue on colors are doing well, coming off to sell well for around $200,” said the tangerine trend for spring.” She Kenny, noting that Sol is located in pointed to “painterly-type florals” as an “affluent” community. a strong print category. Q At Intimacy, an 18-unit specialty Key ideas in sleepwear include chain based in Atlanta, colorful fash- “maxi…longer styles of nightgowns ion foundations and convertible bras and T-shirts, as well as basic cotton for full-busted women are topping poplin and seersucker sleep sets, the charts. Top-selling brands are kind of borrowed from the boys. I PrimaDonna, Empreinte, Chantelle, think this will be big for fall.” Simone Perele and Marie Jo. Top-selling brands include Natori, “Business has been good,” said which she described as a “great asset Susan Nethero, founder, part owner that speaks volumes to all sorts of and consultant, adding that com- customers,” and Midnight by Carole parable-store sales are up about 5 Hochman cotton knit sleepwear, percent since March, and sales are which is doing well because her sil- growing on the Web site launched in houettes “are so spot-on for the cus- November. “Now that everybody has tomer — simple, classic knit styles.” colored jeans, a colored bra is kind Q Suzanne Alvarado, owner of Sugar of sassy. We’re selling a huge variety Cookies, a specialty boutique in of blues from Caribbean aqua to navy Manhattan, credits the appetite for as well as mango, hot pinks, fuchsia, special items for a sales increase of lavender, purple. Simone Perele had more than 10 percent from a year ago. a beautiful bra in kiwi that blew out.” “My business has increased in the Shoppers are also responding to double-digits because last summer new options in larger cup sizes —in- we launched our Web site, which in- cluding strapless styles to H cups, creased traffic, and because custom- and convertibles and halters up to G, Tel. 770-475-3045 Fax: 770-664-7208 ers have also wanted more fashion Nethero noted. and specialty items.” — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM www.JulieFrance.com She said price resistance began HOLLY HABER, DALLAS LOS ANGELES 800.969.5235 NEW YORK 212.564.4710 KBELLSOCKS.COM

A DIVISION OF RENFRO CORPORATION 14 WWD MONDAY, JULY 23, 2012

SECTION II

WWD INTIMATES Innerwear designers are courting customers Intimate Relations the techie way. By Taylor Harris

IN THE ever-evolving market- social media infrastructure, and we were all only using the Cosabaella is active on Twitter, ing dialogue, one concept domi- the fundamental and frequent Internet through AOL, Valeria Pinterest, Flickr and, just re- nates the conversation: social first step toward consumer was talking to these women in cently, Instagram, Facebook media. It’s been the marketing engagement. Cosabella was a chatrooms and on discussion is the clear front-runner. “It’s buzzword of the last several relatively early adopter, join- boards. This was before the definitely our strongest, our years, as consumers embrace ing the site in November 2008. thong was something we all had most active [platform],” she the onslaught of platforms, from “We’ve always been on the fore- in our dressers. She’d see these said. “I think people react to iPhone apps to Facebook to front of social media, thanks women post complaints about it so strongly because it’s so vi- Pinterest. So how are lingerie to Valeria Campello [the com- panty lines and she was on sual yet news-driven. The time brands jumping on the band- pany’s founder],” said Pallavi there saying, ‘No, you can wear line helps create excitement wagon to reel in customers? Ramamurthy, Cosabella’s global this beautiful thong! Look what because it adds a sense of new- For many brands, Facebook marketing manager. “Back when we’ve developed!’” ness to the content.” forms the centerpiece of the we all used dial-up modems Ramamurthy said while With 900 million-plus month-

Cosabella’s Facebook page.

A Twitpic tweeted by Spanx in March.

ly active users, not only does Facebook offer the largest pool of current and potential customers, but it’s also typically the first, and sometimes only, digital platform consumers join. Consequently, Facebook is deemed the most effective means of reaching the broadest audience. “Our cus- tomer isn’t in high school. She’s between the ages of 28 and 45 so she’s not necessarily so social media-savvy that she’s jumping on whatever the next new thing may be,” said Ashley Jones, who oversees social media for Only Hearts. “That’s why we stay true to Facebook — it’s easy to un- derstand, it’s been around a long time, it’s something our customer definitely uses.” Only Hearts has taken a measured approach to social media, setting up shop only on Facebook, Twitter and, just recently, Instagram. On Aug. 5, the loungewear brand will initiate an incentive-driven promotion program across its platforms. “If you follow us on Twitter or ‘like’ us on Facebook, you’ll receive a certain percent off [of purchase] on our Web WWD MONDAY, JULY 23, 2012 15

WWD.COM

manager, who informs con- they are dialogue-driven,” boutiques or associates from boards around themes and in- sumers of sales and deals, and Adams Klein said of the inner- department stores, to tweet us spirations,” Ramamurthy said. Hillary Byers, the teams’ blog- wear company’s social media from the floor saying something “We have different pictures of ger. As for the 140-character- program, which also includes like, ‘We just got your Hello Kitty these Old Hollywood celebri- or-less customer interaction, posting its many television collection in. It looks amazing!’ ties and vintage cars mixed in. Breen said, “They’re always spots (e.g. the “Today” show, So it definitely strengthens those It’s a fun way to deepen your asking for advice: ‘I’m wearing “Good Morning America,” etc.) relationships.” brand’s aesthetic.” this garment, what do you think on the company YouTube chan- Pinterest, the latest plat- Whatever avenue intimates I should wear underneath?’ nel, youtube.com/spanxinc. “If form to permeate the social brands take, the goal is ulti- Pointing them in the right di- we’re making [the customer] media scene, is ideal for the mately singular. “Every tweet rection is pretty rewarding.” laugh while improving their fashion industry as it’s an en- is basically a press release. But Maggie Adams Klein, di- rear view, we’re doing our job, tirely visual entity, strikingly it’s not only about keeping the rector of brand and public one tweet at a time.” similar to designer inspiration message out there and building relations for Spanx, agrees Aside from facilitating di- boards. While many lingerie brand awareness,” Breen said. that the focus of social media rect consumer-brand interac- brands are still cautious to join “It’s also imperative to be in- should be direct contact with tion, Breen said Twitter forti- Pinterest simply because the the-know, to be keenly aware of the consumer. “We’re invest- fies Hanky Panky’s retail ties, site has only gained traction in the vernacular of the consumer ing in Facebook and Twitter too: “It’s very common for store the past few months, Cosabella and the public. You want to be over other platforms because managers, from our specialty has embraced it. “We frame our part of the club.”

site,” Jones said. “A lot of our social media is geared toward trying to drive traffic to our Web site.” Though Facebook may be in the lead for lingerie brands, Twitter is fast on its heels. Hanky Panky has adopted an unorthodox Twitter strategy — divide and conquer. The com- pany maintains five entirely distinct Twitter accounts. The primary Hanky Panky Twitter account, @hanky_panky_ltd, which as of press time had 5,011 followers, is complemented by four others headed up by dif- ferent brand employees. “We compose what we call the Panty Panel,” said J.D. Breen, who’s known at the company as “Glam Guru.” “We all handle different aspects of the brand. I do all the visuals and the styling of all of our photo shoots and lookbooks, so that’s the perspective of my Twitter [@hankypankyJD].” The other three accounts are oper- ated by Larissa King, senior designer, tasked with keeping customers posted on new prod- uct; Shari Hoenig, e-commerce 116 WWD MONDAY, JULY 23, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD INTIMATES/IN THE MARKETS

Insensée is leaving behind familiar A Sensible Approach innerwear codes such as seduction and sexiness. The result is a chic line built with AN ANTIBIMBO brand with a feminist Shama and aunt Loumia founded the finest fabrics, with leather, silk manifesto — and a literary bent. Princesse Tam Tam, have partnered and even cashmere used for bras. That’s quite a mix. It might not be the with Gael Moreau, 34 (formerly of Tam They tapped designer Pierre Martinez first concept that comes to mind when Tam), to create the brand, which they of French swimwear brand Iodus for thinking about lingerie, but that’s just launched at the Mode City fair this the project. how Insensée, a new French intimate ap- month in Paris. Insensée lingerie sets are priced parel venture, is positioning itself. “Even though we are men, there is ac- at 120 euros, or about $150 at current Brothers Kevin and Michael tivism in our approach,” Kevin Hiridjee exchange. Over the next 16 months, Hiridjee, 25 and 31, whose mother asserted. “Sensuality can be discreet.” the company anticipates making about 40,000 pieces. According to Hiridjee, Insensée sits between junior brands like Princesse Tam Tam and luxury brands playing on sexiness. The firm is targeting a more sophisticated, grown-up customer who is “fond of culture.” And maybe even a little bookish. “There is a way to tie lingerie and lit- erature,” Hiridjee said, explaining the origin of the brand name: A quote from French author Paul Eluard, “Prendre sens dans l’insensée,” which translates as, “To make sense out of nonsense.” The company has already hatched a loyalty and reward pro- gram in which customers receive a Gallimard book with the purchase of a set, either a classic or contempo- A set from Insensée. rary novel, Hiridjee noted, and for PHOTO BY FRANCK MURA FRANCK PHOTO BY two sets, customers get their pick of a theater ticket. Bank. In line with the brand’s position- Distribution targets include de- ing, the unit will host literary events partment and specialty stores, as well and conferences. as company-owned retail. Down the In lieu of traditional advertising, road, the partners intend to expand the company plans a viral strategy in through franchises. partnership with online city guide PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTO BY Their first boutique is set to open in Mylitteparis.com. Insensée founders Kevin Hiridjee, Gael Moreau and Michael Hiridjee. September on Rue du Bac on the Left — LAURE GUILBAULT WWD MONDAY, JULY 23, 2012 17

WWD.COM M&M: Staying Sweet

WHEN MARJORIE Collard as a stylist — they finally decid- their fabric of choice. The line and Maud Juillard met at the ed to take the leap and launch aims for a glamorous attitude, Esmod fashion school in Paris a line of their own. bringing lingerie to the beach. more than a decade ago, little Begun last season, the “We want to create a did they know that an inner- Maud & Marjorie collection bridge between lingerie and wear line and a partnership expresses their ultrafeminine swimwear,” said Collard, re- were in their future. and girlie taste and attention vealing the pure white lin- The students specialized to details: almost every bra and ing of the liberty cotton en- in lingerie design, and after pair of panties has exclusive semble, or pointing to stretch a decade of friendship and little charms sewn onto them. satin fabric on another that working for different concerns Chantilly lace from Calais, allows for a dip in the pool. — Juillard for a small lingerie- stretch satin and sweet and Self-funded and produced Sets from swimwear brand, and Collard playful cotton liberty prints are in France, the line is sold at Maud & Le Printemps Paris and in Marjorie. Japan. Prices range from about 30 to 50 euros ($38 to $53) for panties and from 80 to 100 euros ($100 to $125) for a bra or top. The partners also have a Web site, capable of e-commerce — maudand- marjorie.com — currently op- erating only in French, but an English-language version is in the works. Also on the horizon is a be- spoke service that will allow consumers to order apparel in custom sizes. The partners hope to develop special acces- sories to complete the line, in- cluding little bags containing a complete set of bra, panties and matching pareo or scarf.

— LAURENT FOLCHER DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTOS BY 18 WWD MONDAY, JULY 23, 2012 SECTION II

WWD INTIMATES

MEN’S BRIEFS for $100? Lingerie sets A sample from Maison Lejaby Couture. for $750? Encouraged by a robust market for high luxury, a cache of European inner- wear brands is testing new price thresh- olds with, ahem, top-drawer lines. They’re still feeling their way with this niche category, noting that such pricy items call for intensive service and client interaction, along with ex- ceptional finishing, materials and per- formance qualities. Maison Lejaby plans to launch an elite lingerie, corsetry and beachwear brand called Maison Lejaby Couture before the end of this year. The line will be designed and manufactured in nearby Lyon, a French city renowned for its silk houses. “It will be the first brand of French lingerie haute couture,” asserted Maison Lejaby chief executive officer Alain Prost. “We want to show our customers that we can do something special.” Distribution targets are the 50 more luxury-oriented department stores Stretching the Limits worldwide, added Prost. He said Maison Lejaby Couture will represent less than 5 percent of the company’s total sales in the first year. HOW HIGH IS HIGH IN LINGERIE? He anticipates volume to amount to 25 BY LAURE GUILBAULT million euros in 2012, or $31.6 million at current exchange, and around 30 mil- lion euros in 2013, or $38 million. Lejaby is not alone in spying business opportunities in rarified price tiers. In its bid to reposition itself toward the lux- ury end of the market, French innerwear purveyor Empreinte in late May opened its first concept store, called L’Atelier lingerie, in the Place Vendôme district, which boasts such boutiques as Cartier, Chopard and Goyard. On its ground floor, innerwear is dis-

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played in glass frames — like paintings. Launched in the U.S. in April, the such prestigious brands. “High-end in- ising market. Printemps’ Hervé said she The lingerie pieces are all made in the brand is rolling out to three or four dependent lingerie stores are few in would like to see more fashion content brand’s workshops in Brest, France. more countries by the end of the year, number — you can count them on one from innerwear brands, letting go of any Service is intense: Once a woman’s fit Ingvarsson said. hand,” she said. “It is a micro market.” semblance of the commodity mentality is correctly identified, sales staff whisk Upscale Paris department store That is why brands exploring upper that is widespread in the industry. all the styles available in her size to a Printemps, whose innerwear offer in- price tiers recognize the need to have their Anne-Laure Linget, international sumptuous fitting room. cludes Agent Provocateur and La Perla, own retail showcase, as Empreinte does. development manager at the Lingerie There is also a tablet device avail- plans to add Maison Lejaby Couture to “But to have freestanding stores, you have Federation, said the “visible lingerie” di- able that allows the customer — or her its assortment. to have enough turnover,” Berry noted. rection is but one case in point: “Brands spouse — to create and customize linge- “They have a real know-how and are Nevertheless, retailers say it is a prom- should take advantage of those trends.” rie sets with ribbons, small badges, lace, developing a true brand image,” said pendants and the like. Then the set is Delphine Hervé, merchandise manager transformed by a seamstress. It costs ap- for children’s and lingerie. proximately 5 euros, or $6.25, for every While European women have cut customized option, and customers can down on lingerie spending due to the have anything embroidered on their economic crisis, there is still a strong sets. Sets start at 140 euros (about $175). demand for premium brands, especial- In Germany, Triumph last year added ly with customers from China and the the Triumph Essence luxury lingerie Middle East, Hervé said. brand to its stable, entering a competitive She noted, however, that such high- group occupied by such upscale lines as priced products — with sets often run- La Perla, Eres and Agent Provocateur. ning at 400 euros, or about $500 — re- The guys are getting into the act, too. quire a “selling ceremony” involving a Men’s underwear is scaling new heights trained sales force and a strong mer- in terms of cost and performance. chandising concept. Swedish brand RevolutionWear To wit: Luxury department store earned a torrent of media coverage Le Bon Marché on Paris’ Left Bank re- when it launched its Frigo No.1 product cently gave its lingerie department a in the U.S., with a single pair of skiv- prime location and a refurbishment. The vies priced at 100 euros in Europe and 1,900-square-foot space is adjacent to de- tagged at $100 in the U.S. signer apparel and footwear areas and “Men are ready to pay for inner- showcases luxury labels including Eres, wear involving the best materials. It is Yasmine Eslami and Carine Gilson. a whole new category,” said Mathias Galeries Lafayette in Paris is also Ingvarsson, chief executive officer of giving its lingerie space a facelift. The RevolutionWear. department store has tapped designer The Frigo briefs boast an adjustable Stella Cadente to revamp the space, interior mesh pouch and laser-cut vents which is moving to the fourth floor, and placed along the lower back to keep the is set to open in early 2013. wearer cool and dry. Industry consultant Jos Berry of “If you charge $100 for a pair, it Concepts Paris, a trend-forecasting The interior of the has to deliver what you promise,” firm, noted there is a dearth of specialty Empreinte concept store.

Ingvarsson acknowledged. stores that are luxurious enough to sell DOMINIQUE MAITRE EMPREINTE PHOTOS BY

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