First Position Dance-Inspired Looks Were All Over the Runways

The Inside: Specialty Store Margins Pg. 28 INDITEX NET UP 15%/3 CHANEL’S NEW POD/3 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’THURSDAY Daily Newspaper • September 21, 2006 • $2.00 List Sportswear First Position Dance-inspired looks were all over the runways. Michael Kors offered languid, sporty styles featuring fl uid jerseys and slinky Ts. Here, his cashmere cardigan, silk dress and cotton pullover, all layered over leggings. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

LVMH’s Inside Track: Lalonde Named Head Of Louis Vuitton U.S. By Miles Socha PARIS — Once again drawing on its deep management reserves, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton has tapped an internal key player to head its vital and fast-growing Vuitton business in America. Daniel Lalonde, president and chief executive officer in North America of LVMH Watch & Jewelry, is to become Vuitton’s new North American president, effective in January. He will report to Philippe Schaus, Vuitton’s international senior vice president. “He has an excellent track record,” Schaus told WWD Wednesday. “We See LVMH’s, Page 29 PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION ™ Whether inspired by the Bolshoi or Broadway, New York designers 6 featured dance-inspired fare perfect for warming up or cooling down. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL Daniel Lalonde, president and ceo in North America of LVMH Watch & 1 Jewelry, will become Louis Vuitton’s North American president. SPRING FLING EYE: Michael Kors hosted a lunch on Tuesday in La Duree at Harrods in Women Are Sure to Take a Shine to Next Season’s Fashions 4 London, where the luscious goodies on the dessert tray got his attention. Retailers, gearing up for Milan’s spring shows, expect voluminous tops, Clarity, cut and color are three of the four good choices because they are made from natural 18 skinny bottoms, leggings and a bevy of dresses. fibers and wear a lot cooler.” “C”s that smart shoppers allude to when buying DISH: Replay got things rolling at its spring runway show Tuesday with a diamond. But the alliteration is also quite “We have tulip volumes in skirts, high waisted some help from the members of the Gotham Girls Roller Derby league. appropriate for describing Spring 2007 fashion dresses, and blouses with tunic lengths to wear 24 trends, particularly when you consider that clarity over straight pants,” offers Baraschi. While many BEAT: Spring was in full bloom at the Fashion Coterie, split between the translates to wearability with a designers are stressing the 26 Show Piers and Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York. consistent fashion direction. continuation of longer tops and A military coup in Thailand that disposed its prime minister caused little The styles that debuted at the slightly shorter bottoms, styles 29 disruption for retail or manufacturing, but is being watched closely. recent Olympus Fashion Week have been modestly updated Classifi ed Advertisements...... 31 in New York for Spring 2007 with nips and tucks, ranging included a bevy of pretty dresses, from the asymmetrical hemline To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. belted jackets, voluminous skirts, to the more defined cinched [email protected], using the individual’s name. airy and delicate blouses and waist. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. fitted pants in a variety of colors As with the seasonal conti- VOLUME 192, NO. 61. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- and patterns. The approving nuity of cuts, Linda DeFranco, ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, nods at shows spanned from Product Trend Forecaster, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Cotton Incorporated, notes that Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and those seated in the celebrated C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; front rows to those standing in the current season’s colors are David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance the back, confirming that a lot also spilling into spring. “A big Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. of the trends will be hitting a lot trend was fall shades, like black, Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RT0001. Canada post return undeliverable of stores. white and gray, which made Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS you wonder what season you CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, With the latest styles trickling “I love our dresses, either in white down faster than ever, expect were watching. Also important ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR cotton pique or seersucker. These DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four to see runway looks in many were neutrals and pale washes of weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. make good choices because they Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other fashion destinations outside of color,” she says. are made from natural fibers and U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. the exclusive specialty boutique. “Many designers com- First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, wear a lot cooler.” and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions The wide availability expected for plemented their primarily and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To — Mara Hoffman, Spring 2007 fashions encompasses ethereal shaded collections with subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make Designer our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would the season’s direction of styles statement colors,” DeFranco adds. interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. designed to resonate with women “Michael Kors showed camel, WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- of every means and every size. black and gray with ballerina pink as a statement, SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, With the spring collections melding the past while electric blue popped at Cynthia Steffe and OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED with the modern, and the new with the familiar, Oscar de la Renta. In both everyday and evening consumers of every fashion proclivity will want wear alike, Spring 2007 colors definitely showed to start shopping. When asked by the Cotton beautifully in cotton.” Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™ about their When asked by the Cotton Incorporated typical new clothing purchase, 57% of female Lifestyle Monitor™ what their favorite color to In Brief respondents stated they were buying new and wear was, nearly one in four female respondents different, while 40% stated they were replacing cited blue. Pink or rose was the second most ● WANG MEMORIAL: A memorial service for C.C. Wang, backer current. popular choice among of Vera Wang Co. and its former chairman, will be held Thursday, Although the looks 16% of respondents. Oct. 19 at 1 p.m. at Christ Church, 520 Park Avenue in New York. are clear, designers’ Typical New Clothing Purchase It also appears that Wang, 87, died Sept. 14 of complications related to prostate can- inspirations ranged women will appreciate cer. A reception will be held following the ceremony at 740 Park Avenue. Donations may be made in his memory to Memorial tremendously. “For Total Females the abundance of Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center. Spring 2007, I was colored cotton for Buying New and Different 57% inspired by the pulsing spring. When asked ● IN THE FAMILY: Dolce & Gabbana couldn’t quite let go of Carla tempo of Buenos Aires Replacing Current 40% by the Monitor about Buzzi, its longtime director of international public relations and and a natural rhythm their favorite fiber or advertising. Buzzi announced her departure earlier this year, and movement,” says fabric to wear, cotton but never left. On Tuesday, the company said she had taken on designer Tracy Reese. was the clear choice. Nearly three in four female the role of consultant and would supervise media planning and Others drew their creations from different respondents stated cotton or a cotton derivative; advertising campaigns as well as manage communications in 58% preferred pure cotton, 9% preferred denim emerging markets like China and India. Simona Baroni, former hemispheres. Luca Luca President Yildiz deputy press offi ce director, has been promoted to public rela- Blackstone enthuses that their designer, Luca and 7% preferred a cotton blend. In fact, women tions director of Dolce & Gabbana. Baroni, who has worked at the Orlandi, was evoked by “a summer dream in are also increasingly willing to pay a premium for Italian fashion house since 1998, will report directly to designers New York.” the preferred privilege. When asked if they would Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. Yoana Baraschi, an emerging designer with pay more for natural fibers such as cotton, 66.3% her own eponymous collection, currently sold at in the second quarter of 2006 stated that they ● THINK PINK: The Adrienne Vittadini store at 1180 Sixth Avenue Nordstrom’s, Fred Segal, and specialty stores like would, up nearly 3 points from the 63.4% making in New York has been up and running since March, but the com- Intermix and Big Drop, looked to both the past the same claim in the same period a year earlier. pany hopes to welcome many new faces tonight at a party. Co-host- ed by Vogue, the event will benefi t the Breast Cancer Research and to fantasia for her spring line. “There’s Brigitte So it appears that spring dressing in 2007 may Foundation, and a percentage of proceeds from all sales will go to Bardot in Saint Tropez for the nautical side of the actually come down to its own rule of 4 “C”s: clarity, the nonprofi t. Adrienne Vittadini has developed a $58 pink T-shirt collection and the Magic Garden from Arabian cut, color and cotton. This new combination, with and a $148 rose quartz sterling bracelet for the cause. Accessories Nights and Alice in Wonderland for the second all its interpretations, appears to be something that are becoming an increasingly important part of the label’s busi- part of the collection,” she says. women everywhere will embrace, perhaps longer ness, and the company opened accessories stores adjacent to Despite various sources of inspiration for the than the typical spring fling. existing Adrienne Vittadini stores in eight cities last month. But Spring 2007 shows, most designers concurred This story is one in a series of articles based on find- don’t look for the company’s namesake at tonight’s gathering in New York. She sold her trademarks to Retail Brand Alliance in ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ making strong statements with their cuts, owing 2001. Marg Helgenberger of “CSI: Miami” is expected, however. to fall’s current play with proportion of silhouettes. tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these “I think next spring is about perfectly cut dresses pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it ● TALBOTS EXEC MOVES: Margery Myers, vice president of and pairing different volumes, full on top and slim relates to the American consumer and her attitudes corporate communications and public relations of The Talbots on the bottom or vice versa,” observes Reese. and behavior regarding clothing, Inc. and a veteran of the Hingham, Mass.-based specialty re- “I love our dresses, either in white cotton pique appearance, fashion, fiber selection and tailer, has joined Dunkin’ Brands, owner of Dunkin’ Donuts, or seersucker,” says Mara Hoffman. “These make many other timely, relevant subjects. Baskin-Robbins and Togo’s, as senior vice president of commu- nications. Myers joined Talbots in 1994 as director of p.r. and was promoted to her current position in 1999. WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2006 3 WWD.COM Strong Zara Sales Propel Inditex to 14.6% Profi t Gain

By Robert Murphy market’s potential. Already China is shaping up as one of fast-fashion’s newest battlegrounds. (Earlier this year PARIS — Inditex, the Spanish fast-fashion giant, on H&M said it would open its fi rst stores in China in 2007.) Wednesday said “outstanding” sales at its Zara chain Zara opened its fi rst stores in Shanghai earlier this helped increase second-half profits by 14.6 percent. year. Isla said sales so far had exceeded expectations. Net income in the three months through July 31 “Sales to white collar locals and overseas transplants improved to 144.7 million euros, or $184 million, from have been above our initial expectations,” he said. 123.6 million euros, or $152.1 million, in the corre- Isla said Zara’s fi rst store in Beijing would bow by sponding period a year earlier, broadly in line with the end of the fi rm’s fi scal year. analysts’ expectations. Isla said Inditex would grow its total retail space Sales in the period gained 19.7 percent to 1.76 billion this year by 15 to 20 percent, with capital investments to euros, or $2.24 billion. Through the half, sales gained open new stores expected to reach as much as 950 mil- 23 percent to 3.47 billion euros, or $4.3 billion, while lion euros, or $1.2 billion. net income increased 19 percent to 296 million euros, “We like the direction the company is taking with its or $376.4 million. Currency conversions were made at space growth program,” wrote Allegra Perry, an analyst average exchange rates for the respective periods. with Lehman Brothers in London. “Zara showed outstanding growth,” said Pablo Isla, Overall, Zara, which accounts for 66 percent of the fi rm’s deputy chairman and chief executive offi cer, Inditex shares dropped 1.73 percent to close at 34.07 Inditex’s total sales, should open some 150 stores this in a conference call. “The quarter was quite strong.” euros, or $43.13, in trading Wednesday on the Madrid year, after opening 129 stores in 2005. He added that sales were robust in August and early Bourse. Bershka, Inditex’s rapidly growing teen chain, will September. Isla said the fi rm would continue to expand aggres- open as many as 75 stores, while the Massimo Dutti For the last two years, Inditex, which also runs sively, highlighting opportunities for Zara to grow in chain will add about 40 stores. the Pull & Bear, Massimo Dutti and Bershka chains, Asia, Russia and Italy. Inditex also runs the Kiddy’s Class, Stradivarius, has been one of Europe’s most dynamic retailers, log- For example, in Italy, where Zara opened its fi rst Oysho and Zara Home concepts. ging consistent double-digit gains in profi t and sales. stores in 2002, the chain should have 40 units by year- Though Isla was upbeat about most markets, he said Last year, it even pulled ahead of Sweden’s Hennes & end, Isla said. Germany continued to pose challenges. Mauritz as Europe’s largest clothing fi rm in terms of Isla said the fi rm also wanted to open stores twice as “We are seeing no improvement in Germany,” he sales. In the last year, its stock has soared 36 percent. fast in Asia as in the rest of the world, underscoring that said. “It remains the most diffi cult in Europe.” LVMH Files Suit Against eBay Vreeland Heads to D. Porthault By Marc Karimzadeh Charging Counterfeit Sales Alexander ALEXANDER VREELAND HAS JOINED THE PARIS-BASED Vreeland By Emilie Marsh D. Porthault as chief executive officer. Vreeland, 51, was previously a partner, president and chief PARIS — LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton is taking eBay operating offi cer in G.A.V., which manufactures the licensed to court, alleging the online auction house failed to take an ag- ck Calvin Klein and Emanuel lines. He has sold his share in gressive position against the widespread sale of counterfeit the company to G.A.V. partners Andrew Grossman and Jay luxury goods on its site. Schottenstein, and relocated to Paris with his family earlier LVMH and sister company Christian Dior Couture recently fi led this month. claims for 20 million euros, or $25.3 million at current exchange, At D. Porthault, Vreeland will also become a member of and 17 million euros, or $21.5 million, respectively, with the com- the shareholding group Société Nouvelle D. Porthault Inc., mercial court in Paris against eBay Inc. and eBay AG, its Swiss which owns the luxury linen house. Joan and Bernard Carl subsidiary, for counterfeit products sold between 2001 and 2005. are primary investors in D. Porthault. According to sources, in the second quarter of 2006 alone there “I have known D. Porthault all my life,” Vreeland told were a total of 150,000 ads for Louis Vuitton handbags and 300,000 ads WWD from Paris on Wednesday. “I was intrigued by the op- for Dior products on eBay, of which 90 percent were deemed fakes. portunity to run a company that had this kind of integrity but A spokeswoman for LVMH declined all comment on Wednesday. was an underdeveloped luxury brand. I feel it has a real po- The claim is not the French luxury behemoth’s fi rst lawsuit tential in most luxury markets.” against an Internet site. Last June, Louis Vuitton triumphed in Vreeland, an apparel industry veteran, founded G.A.V. with a case against Google, which was ordered to pay Vuitton 300,000 Grossman and Schottenstein in 2003, and managed Calvin euros, or $379,800, for misleading advertising, unfair competi- Klein’s better-priced white label sportswear collection in a tion and trademark counterfeiting. partnership with Kellwood Co., as well as taking on the bridge ck Calvin Klein and Emanuel li- Although a spokeswoman for eBay France would not com- censes. G.A.V. sold its interests in Calvin Klein’s white label to Kellwood last year. Grossman could ment on the claim, she asserted the Web site plays an active not be reached for comment, but it is expected he and Schottenstein will continue to operate G.A.V. role against counterfeit goods. with few signifi cant changes. “EBay fi ghts actively and aggressively against counterfeiting. Before co-founding G.A.V. in 2003, Vreeland worked as an industry consultant. He was also ex- The sale of such products is totally illegal on eBay. Our services ecutive vice president of sales and marketing for Giorgio Armani Corp. from 1989 to 2001, and, immediately eliminate all counterfeit products from the site,” prior to that, senior director of communications for Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. she said, noting the company recently enforced a “VeRO pro- D. Porthault was founded in 1920 by Daniel and Madeleine Porthault. The pair has created gram” or verifi ed rights owners program, which allows brands a house around fi ne linens and unique craftsmanship with a focus on custom-made pieces. The to notify eBay of any counterfeit products advertised. founders’ son, Marc, continues to be involved in the company as chairman. The company currently The claim against eBay is not the fi rst from the luxury sec- has freestanding stores in Paris, New York and Dallas, and is sold at upscale specialty stores na- tor. Tiffany & Co. also fi led a lawsuit against the e-tailer for sell- tionwide. Much of the business is still in made-to-order linens. ing counterfeit goods bearing Tiffany and other brand labels in On Oct. 5, D. Porthault will offi cially relocate its Paris boutique from 18 Avenue Montaigne to a 2004. Last March, there was a raid in the U.K. where many of 6,000-square-foot space at 50 Avenue Montaigne. This fall, the company will also add a new factory, the products confi scated were traced to sales on eBay and other with modernized facilities to position the brand for expansion. “We will be starting to look at ad- online auction sites. ditional sales points for the company,” said Bernard Carl.

With an interior skeleton of steel ribs, and a shell of fi berglass-reinforced plastic etched in a grid pattern in homage to Chanel, the gleaming white structure calls to Chanel Goes Sci-fi With Art Project mind a luxury spacecraft from some far-off fashion galaxy. “For me, this woman is pure genius,” By Miles Socha Lagerfeld said of Hadid. “At the same time, A rendering of she’s tough and fun.” PARIS — Chanel — whose Paris fashion Zaha Hadid’s Lagerfeld, who has sat numerous celebri- shows have featured towering stairwells, ro- project for ties on an undulating Hadid settee in his pho- tating bleachers or a pop-out orchestra — ap- Chanel. tography studio, characterized her computer- pears to have outdone itself in the venue de- generated designs as so “absolutely new” that partment. it often takes years until technology is avail- The French fashion and beauty giant has able to realize them. “In the future, I think the commissioned acclaimed architect Zaha world will look like hers,” he quipped. Hadid to envision a collapsible, futuristic Thanks to a giant central skylight, natural building for an art-related project that will light is mixed with artifi cial light to empha- travel around the world. size the arched shape of the structure and a Details about the exhibition are not avail- series of interior “membranes.” able — the mobile museum has yet to be Boasting exhibition space of more than constructed — but Karl Lagerfeld, a fan of 6,000 square feet, the 7,500-square-foot pa- Hadid’s work, gave WWD a preview of her vilion will also house a cafeteria, cloakroom, “traveling pavilion.” reception area and restrooms. 4 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2006 WWD.COM

Christina Aguilera and Stephen Webster London Luvs “I’ll have the tray,” joked Michael Kors, pointing to a silver platter fi lled with lemon tarts, giant macaroons and luscious chocolate cake from Ladurée at Harrods in London, where the designer hosted a lunch on Tuesday. Before the magic tray appeared, guests including Camilla Al Fayed, Lillian von Stauffenberg, Rena Sindi, Tamara Beckwith, Karen Groos, Heather Kerzner, Ariane Sodi, Catherine Prevost and Natalie Massenet lunched on tomato and pesto pizzas, tuna steaks, and grilled vegetables. And while Kors was at Harrods for work — he was scheduled to hold a trunk show after lunch — the conversation buzzing around the table had nothing to do with clothes, ranging from Patricia Wexler’s miracle cures to Kors’ fi rst major, Steve McQueen-esque haircut at Oribe to the joys of denial. “You’re not ladies,” Kors told his guests. “You’re still girls. And that makes me a boy!” The night before, Julien Fernanda Macdonald and Rachel Zoe Niven at dispensed with the usual after party and instead held

Petrossian. ▼ a preshow cocktail party to mark their collaboration on Macdonald’s show, which takes place Friday. Julien The fete in the garden of the Macdonald Sanderson hotel drew the and Rachel likes of Yasmin Mills, Margo Zoe Stilley, Petra Nemcova, Patrick Petra Nemcova Cox and Elizabeth Saltzman. “Everyone’s been commenting on my hair,” said Macdonald, who swapped his usual close crop for a neat, slicked side parting. “It Nadja Swarovski makes me worry that I’m a real scruff most of the time.” Zoe, for her part, said the London weather was already draining the life out of her perpetual tan. “I’m the palest I’ve been in ages. I love London so much, I’d move here if it weren’t for the weather.” The London festivities actually kicked off the week before when jeweler Stephen Webster celebrated his 30th anniversary at the Wallace Collection, which drew fans such as Christina Aguilera, who fl ew in just for the night since Webster made her wedding ring; Tracey Emin; Chrissie Hynde; Tom Parker Bowles; Ozwald and Gyunel Boateng, and Isabella Blow. Webster and his wife, Assia, took over the museum for the party, where Bryan Ferry performed hits from his Roxy Music days, including “Love Is the Drug” and “Let’s Stick Together.” Nadja Swarovski, whose jewels were stolen last year when her home was burgled, had merch on her mind, though. She was busily operating the lever of a lucky dip machine fi lled with $18,000 worth of Webster jewelry hidden among fake silver dollar pendants. “Hang on a second — I’m trying to replenish my jewelry collection,” she quipped. In New York, Valentino called the well-heeled to the Russian haunt Petrossian for a night of couture and caviar. Marina Rust, Tory Burch, Marjorie Raein, Helen Schifter and Susan Fales- Hill wore their evening best and graciously chatted with the company’s U.S. president, Graziano de Boni. “Hmm, vodka or champagne?” Tory Burch pondered upon arrival, eventually opting for neither. Meanwhile, the younger set — Tinsley Mortimer, Fabiola Beracasa, and Olivia Chantecaille among them — were all atwitter over the recent E! channel “True Hollywood Story: Society Girls.” “We were so relieved,” gushed Beracasa, one of the special’s leading ladies, tempering her initial anxiety. A handful of models dressed in the house’s fi nery — the fi rst time ever Valentino couture was shown on models in America — swanned about the restaurant. Amy Sacco offered her services: “I’ll teach you all to walk after you’ve had too much to drink,” Camilla the nightlife queen boomed. Al Fayed

Amy Sacco Lillian von Stauffenberg with Allison Sarofi m and Carlos Mota at Petrossian. Michael Kors.

Dayssi Olarte de Kanavos in Valentino at Petrossian. LONDON PHOTOS BY TIM JENKINS; VALENTINO BY KRISTEN SOMODY BY TIM JENKINS; VALENTINO PHOTOS BY LONDON

6 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2006 Shall We Dance? Whether infl uenced by the Bolshoi or Broadway, New York designers featured dance-inspired fare perfect for warming up or cooling down.

Marc Jacobs NEW Calvin Klein YORK WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2006 7 WWD.COM

Vera Wang Y3

Generra ▲ Proenza Schouler PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT MITRA GEORGE CHINSEE, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2006 All for One

Created in the late 1800s as workwear for coal miners, denim overalls have morphed into a fashion-girl favorite. Riffs on the look are short and sassy for spring.

Wrangler 47’s cotton and spandex overall dress and Tsesay’s wool sweater. WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2006 9 WWD.COM

Cotton overalls from Siwy’s cotton and Levi’s Warhol Factory, Lycra spandex Elijah’s cotton tank overall dress and and Magaschoni’s BCBGirls’ rayon cashmere sweater. top. Charlotte Ronson shoes.

Cotton overalls from AG Adriano Goldschmied and Salvage’s cotton tank. + KRAMER; STYLED BY DANIELA GILBERT STYLED BY + KRAMER;

Diesel’s cotton overalls. Sigerson Morrison shoes. PHOTOS BY ROBERT MITRA; MODEL: CIERRA/SUPREME; HAIR BY PAOLA ORLANDO/ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO.COM; MAKEUP BY SUZANNE KATZ/KRAMER SUZANNE KATZ/KRAMER MAKEUP BY ORLANDO/ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO.COM; PAOLA HAIR BY MITRA; MODEL: CIERRA/SUPREME; ROBERT PHOTOS BY 10 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2006 WWD.COM Fashion Scoops DRIVE THROUGH: There are some party hostesses who basically call it in, but then there are others who really make the effort. Case in point: Yvonne Force Villareal who withstood traffi c — due to President Bush’s visit to New York — for one-and- a-half hours traveling from her home in SoHo to a benefi t at Donna Karan’s Madison Avenue boutique. “I’m always late for these things, so I try to be careful,” she said as she fl agged down a waiter and asked him for more ice and less drink in her prickly pear margarita. Force Villareal, Allison Sarofi m and Charles Ruger had gathered guests including Shirin von Wulffen, Amy Sacco and Heather Mnuchin to Karan’s store to bring awareness to the latest art project in Marfa, Tex.: “Ballroom Marfa Drive-In.” The theater, set to open in 2007, will run fi lms curated by Josh Siegel of the Museum of Modern Art and Ballroom Marfa, a nonprofi t devoted to contemporary arts. Yvonne Force Those in attendance, however, were devoted to Villareal in Heather fashion. Mnuchin gushed over her Donna Karan Donna Karan. Mnuchin frock while a friend conveyed envy over her sky- in Donna high purple heels. “I’m obsessed with them,” Karan. Mnuchin said, before revealing that even the most loyal have their comfort limits. “But I do have fl ip-fl ops in my bag.”

RED BULL, PLEASE: While most of the industry is still recuperating from fashion week, relative newbie Sarah Michelle Gellar still has loads of energy left. On Tuesday night, the actress hosted a fete for Swiss watch fi rm Baume & Mercier at Sky Studios in Manhattan. Gellar — who was decked out in a black Prada top, BCBG skirt, Mimi So diamond bangles and one of the fi rm’s diamond encrusted watches — half joked, saying, “I fi nally got it right this time.” But of all the fashion shows she attended, including BCBG, Seaworthy Marchesa and Rebecca Taylor, she couldn’t edit down her choice looks. NEW YORK — J. Crew is setting sail for spring with a “Please don’t ask me to pick my favorite,” she said. “I loved attending charming sea-themed collection, inspired by both Cape and supporting American designers.” Also in attendance at the party, Cod and the Mediterranean. President Jeff Pfeifl e and where the fi rm launched its new fall watches, were Lauren Bush in a Jenna Lyons, senior vice president of women’s design, fl oor-length knitted dress, and Jaime Pressly in the season’s biggest presented separate groupings for spring and summer at trend, a tunic and leggings. the Maritime Hotel on Thursday. “I played with the contrast of length and proportions,” said Lyons. KIDDIE TABLES: It’s that time of year again — New Yorkers for Children is “Everything is either really short or long.” While taking over Cipriani 42nd Street for its seventh annual fall gala tonight. there were the requisite plaid shorts, madras Guests, including Naomi Watts, Liev Schreiber, Liv Tyler, and Isabella bikinis and washed-out Ts, Lyons also showed a Rossellini will join gala chairman Sarah Jessica Parker, Oscar de la Renta, great take on Saint-Tropez, J. Crew style: sexy Hugh Jackman and Kevin Huvane for the dinner and performance by retro-print dresses, tanks decorated with jumbo LeAnn Rimes. The young country star is on break in New York from her sequin anchors and plenty of sweet eyelet tops. Sarah tour, and she’s taking full advantage. Last week saw her hitting the Michelle Marc Jacobs show and after party for the fi rst time, as well as the Gellar at J.Mendel and Monique Lhuillier shows. Unlike many young starlets, Baume & Rimes has no desire to have a pair of jeans with her name on the Mercier. label. Instead, “I would love to open my own store,” in her hometown of Nashville. The New Yorkers for Children chairs were also busy last week, hosting a pre-gala shopping party at Chloé’s Madison Avenue boutique and a Nokia store party the week before that. Not to mention the party they are hosting next Tuesday at Dior to view the house’s 2007 cruise collection.

NO KINGS: None of the stars made it, but it was still a high-profi le tribe that trekked to the Regal Cinema at Battery Park to catch a special Cinema Society screening of “All the King’s Men,” starring Sean Penn, Jude Law, Kate Winslet and Anthony Hopkins. Guests like Bruce Willis, Tim Robbins, Edie Falco, Marcia Gay Harden, Jamee Gregory, Bettina Zilkha and Coco Kopelman snacked their way through the drama, then chose to hitch a chauffered ride to the close-by after party at the Riverhouse, a new “green,” David Rockwell-designed residence with sweeping views of the Hudson River. Of course, politics was on many people’s minds. “I just kept wanting to know how much of it was true. It was eating away at me the whole time,” said Debbie Bancroft of Penn’s character, based on the late Huey Long. “I’m going to go home and Google him!”

SNOWDON’S SHOTS: With London’s young turks strutting their stuff on the runways, one of the industry’s most famous names, Lord Snowdon, is holding a retrospective chronicling 50 years of documenting the great and the good. But alongside images of the infl uential, from David Hockney ambling down a Paddington Street in the Sixties through Helen Mirren preening in front of her dressing room mirror, the show also highlights the grittier elements of London life. “We wanted to show that he was so much more than a royal photographer,” said Giles Huxley Parlour of the Chris Beetles Art Gallery in St. James’s, where the exhibition will be held through Oct. 14. So alongside never-before-seen pictures of the late Princess Margaret, Snowdon’s ex-wife, grinning in the bathtub with a tiara perched on her head, there are bleaker pictures of patients at a London psychiatric hospital, part of a story for the Sunday Times magazine. “Despite his position, there’s a lack of pretension in the pictures,” said Huxley Parlour. “They’re about the subject, while [Snowdon] tries to stay invisible.”

FACTORY PRODUCED: Art moguls Larry Gagosian and Peter Brant hosted an advance screening of “Andy Warhol: A Documentary Film” at the Museum of Modern Art Tuesday night. Art world heavies like Jeff Koons, Mary Boone, Paul Kasmin and Abigail Asher, along with designers Anna Sui, Zac Posen and Cynthia Rowley joined an eclectic group of Warhol fans such as Steve Martin, Brooke de Ocampo, Serena Altschul, Hope Atherton and Richard Holbrooke to watch the four-hour fi lm, which was thankfully split into two parts, interrupted by dinner in the museum’s lobby. Stephanie Seymour, for one, took the opportunity to chow down on some very un-model-like portions of macaroni and cheese, while Warhol superstar Jane Holzer was surrounded by well-wishers. The many art dealers in attendance got a good chuckle from the reminiscences on-screen — especially a scene in which original Warhol dealer Irving Blum, having bought the famous series of 32 Campbell’s Soup cans for a mere $1,000 and sold the complete set to MoMA for $15 million, earnestly calculates their actual worth was more like $64 million. J. CREW PHOTOS BY TALAYA CENTENO; VILLAREAL BY STEVE EICHNER; JIMI CELESTE GELLAR CENTENO; VILLAREAL BY BY TALAYA J. CREW PHOTOS BY WWDMILANPREVIEWPages 11-22

THIS MUST BE INSIDE: THE PLACE What’s Hot Milano The Fashion Milan Center is the Buyers’ Outlook new main venue for fashion week. Ones to Watch Show Calendar PHOTO BY DAVIDE MAESTRI DAVIDE PHOTO BY 12 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2006

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MILAN FASHION WEEK PREVIEW

Manuele Malenotti and his favorite What’s Hot Milano Basquiat painting, Great things to do and see while in town for the shows. “In This Case,” By Stephanie Epiro 1982.

POLISHING PUCCI: Emilio Pucci’s Via Montenapoleone boutique is a historic location for the brand — this was the fi rst shop opened following Pucci’s alliance with LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. But after fi ve years of wear and tear, it was time to spruce things up, explained Laudomia Pucci, image director for the brand and daughter of Emilio Pucci. The store still has about 1,100 square feet of fl oor space, but has been adapted to better house the collection. Flanking its entry is a section for small leather goods; inside, the rtw collection hangs in small islands. A corner has been dedicated to footwear and an illuminated center displays for neckwear. “It’s more luxurious and chic,” said Pucci, who added that the refi t — to be implemented in other Pucci boutiques — was a step ahead for the brand, which is now under the design direction of Matthew Williamson. The windows inlaid in the corridor leading to the store contain six vintage photographs of Emilio Pucci on holiday, and a video screen in one window plays an artistic take on Pucci’s famous prints interspersed with coverage from the brand’s recent runway show. Emilio Pucci, 14 Via Montenapoleone; Tel: +39-02-76318356

viewed it. “People in our industry have little time to enjoy art during fashion week — it’s great to show something this spectacular,” he said. For those who don’t have a chance to catch the exhibition during fashion week, the Jean-Michel Basquiat show will be on display at La Triennale until January. The Jean-Michel Basquiat Show; La Triennale di Milano, 6 Viale Alemagna; Tel: +39-02-724-341

OIL-RICH COUNTRY: Next to The mozzarella pasta and coffee, olive oil and olive oil is an institution in Italy. bar at Chiú. Chiú, a new eat-in/take-out lunch spot and food shop in Milan’s Brera arts district, has dedicated itself to the Italian dining-table musts of olive oil and mozzarella made from buffalo’s milk. Chiú’s olive oil comes from fi ve regions of Italy — the Sicilian olive oil is the most peppery in taste. All the oils, which are sold in three sizes, are extra virgin, which make them all Pucci’s renovated Montenapoleone store. the better to slosh over the fresh bread Chiú bakes daily. For lunch, Chiú has a menu TIGHTS WEATHER: Fresh fall mornings mean of tasty salads, panini and Wolford’s Via it’s time to break out the tights. And tights, buffalo mozzarella served Manzoni shop. it seems, are on a roll, thanks to the ribbed, with vegetables or prosciutto. opaque and patterned styles that strode on For those concerned with catwalks as well as the footless leggings that calories, buffalo mozzarella is appeared under many a dress and skirt. It’s considered healthy by many helpful to know, then, that Wolford refurbished dieticians — and is featured its Via Manzoni shop location so that its in Dr. Joshi’s Detox Diet, as comprehensive hosiery line is more accessible is olive oil. Chiú also stocks to customers looking for season particulars pasta from Naples and pesto — like new velvet-look, taupe-colored tights. made in Liguria. Walls of the shop have been fi tted with custom Chiú, 5 Via Pontaccio; shelves for Wolford’s collection as well as Tel: +39-02-805-2296 those designed by Kenzo, Giorgio Armani and Zac Posen — the Via Manzoni location HIGH STEPPERS: Donatella Sartore, who has an eye for a trendy shoe in any fashion city, has stocks the delicate black-lace stockings and turned a family-owned footwear brand into a boutique destination for other shoe shoppers. suspenders to be worn with peep toes that After three years, You & Me has established boutiques in Venice and in St. Barth’s that carry Posen created for fall. There’s also space for the styles dreamt up by Sartore and her design team. Now, just in time for fashion week, You the brand’s growing number of fashion pieces & Me has opened on Via Della Spiga, one of Milan’s premier shopping streets. For fall, there — like the best-selling, tube-like Fatal dress, are hand-laced taupe suede pumps and black velvet stilettos with which retails for 115 euros, or $145, and ankle straps. Footwear by You & Me ranges from 90 euros, or the Colombia tweed skirt that is attached to a $114, to 260 euros, or $329, for more elaborate baroque-style bandeau-like top at 169 euros ($214). pony-skin boots. Sartore has added a bag line — a Kelly shape Wolford, Via Manzoni, corner of Via Bigli. Tel: trimmed with velvet, crystals and other trinkets. “I created +39-02-7631-6204 one for myself and wore it in Capri and everyone was asking me where I bought it, so I decided I had to add the bag line,” BELSTAFF MEETS BASQUIAT: Belstaff has linked itself to the world of cinema and music, so it’s said Sartore. You & Me plans to open boutiques in Hong Kong, no surprise the Italian brand is behind the largest European exhibition of artist Jean-Michel Miami, Fort Lauderdale and New York this year. Basquiat. The collection, housed at Milan’s La Triennale, features 106 works by the New You & Me, 50 Via Della Spiga; Tel: +39-02-76006039 York artist and will be presented to 1,500 members of the press on Monday night, after Belstaff stages its spring women’s rtw collection upstairs in the same building. Later that evening, there will be a screening of the movie “Downtown 81,” which shows LINENS AND LACE: Loretta Caponi’s Old World Florence boutique the life of Basquiat, who died of a heroin overdose in 1988, in New York during with its ornate ceilings is the fi rst port of call for property collectors that decade. The fi lm will be introduced by co-producers Edo Bertoglio and with houses by the sea and the Alps. The shop’s dark wooden Elio Fiorucci and Polaroid photographer Maripol — whose photographs of fl oors are laden with shelves of folded handmade linens for dining the Eighties club and underground scene adorn the walls of the gallery rooms, bathrooms and bedrooms. Countryside villas, yachts and cafe. Belstaff sourced the graffi ti-tinged, vivid works of Basquiat seaside houses pose no design problem for the designer — Caponi’s for the show from collectors all over the world — even Madonna artisans can weave just about any theme into a design. The team is and Johnny Depp lent pieces from their private collections. As A shoe by working on a massive tablecloth embroidered with fruit and musical it turns out, Basquiat himself was a fan of Belstaff’s jackets, You & Me. instruments for an estate in the mountains of northern Italy. Now, and a leather trench he wore that features a self-embellished Milan has its own smaller version of Loretta Caponi’s famous shop painted crown motif lining will be displayed among the that will stock the highlights of the home goods collection plus valuable works. Manuele Malenotti, vice president of Caponi’s delicate lingerie crafted from lace and jewel-colored silks. Belstaff, said the exhibition blew him away when he fi rst Loretta Caponi, 25 Corso Monforte; Tel: +39-02-7600-0068 MALENOTTI PHOTO BY ALDO CASTOLDI; OTHERS BY DAVIDE MAESTRI DAVIDE MALENOTTI ALDO CASTOLDI; OTHERS BY PHOTO BY www.allegri.com

fall/winter 2006/2007 14 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2006

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MILAN FASHION WEEK PREVIEW Ones to Watch Newcomer or seasoned, young or not so young — that’s not the point when it comes to putting lesser- known designers on the radar. What matters is what they have to offer. Here, WWD features a handful of names that often go unnoticed amidst the helter- skelter show calendar. In more ways than one, these lines are gaining fashion momentum and branching out into new markets. By Alessandra Ilari

Ruched one-strap polyester minidress; polyester minidress with plunging neckline and bejeweled minaudières, all by Francesco Scognamiglio. Baldinini shoes.

Scognamiglio likes to blend soft fabrics like jersey with more structured mate- rials to create a sculpted effect. Summer highlights: Scognamiglio was inspired by the monochromatic hues of young contemporary artist Terence Koh. The idea is to give his clients a sense of uniqueness and spirituality, via all shades of white, followed by tobacco brown, dove gray and onion pink. General info: Wholesale prices range from $229 for a draped jersey top to Silk polkadot blouse over $1,522 for a silk evening gown. Stores include Sotris in Athens and Tufano cotton and silk pleated skirt; in Pompeii. silk organdy shirt over cotton and silk cropped pants, all by Designers: Belgian accessories designer Vinciane Stouvenaker, 34, and G. Guaglianone. Rome-born Massimo Mariotti, 43 Label: De/Couture History: After consulting for Versace, Cerruti, Romeo Gigli and Ruffo, the duo launched De/Couture in 2005. The brand was one of three Designer: Gianni Guaglianone winners of July’s edition of the Vogue Italian-sponsored Who Is on Label: G. Guaglianone Next contest. “We believe that bags are one of the most significant ALESSANDRA ILARI DINO PROSPERI; STYLED BY ASSISTANT: FASHION ROMAN GASSERIR AND (VICTORIA’S); MAKEUP BY History: Born in Cosenza, Italy, Guaglianone, 36, studied at the Royal and requested fashion items,” said Mariotti. College of Art and later formed his fashion aesthetic working at Cerruti Design philosophy: They reinvent and deconstruct bags in an in- and Donna Karan. novative way while applying erstwhile manual techniques used After going solo with a men’s wear line in 2001, London-based From De/Couture in saddle-making. Some of the bags, in fact, are fully hand- Guaglianone decided to channel his tailoring expertise into women’s accessories, a made. wear, unveiling his fi rst collection for fall 2005. golden calfskin Spring highlights: Classic styles with chain-mail insets, gold- The brand is licensed to Moda 5, an apparel manufacturer based handbag and tone leathers, deep jewel tones and oversize volume. in Vicenza, Italy. calfskin bag with General info: Wholesale prices average $318, but balloon to Design philosophy: First and foremost, Guaglianone advocates Coco metal mesh front. $508 for handmade styles. The line is carried at Mix, San Chanel’s belief: “Wear an ugly outfit and it will get noticed. Wear Francisco, Searle Blatt & Co. in New York and La Vetrina di something lovely and it’s the woman who will get noticed.” Beryl in Milan. Guaglianone believes in laid- back couture that favors Sixties sculptured silhouettes, boxy jackets with big buttons and little dresses — think Kim Novak. Nothing too institutional, but ver- Designers: Maurizio Modica and Pierfrancesco Gigliotti satile and universal styles create an understated look that the Label: Frankie Morello wearer should personalize. History: Initially a performer, choreog- Summer highlights: Imagine Grace Kelly and Rita Hayworth on a rapher and set and costume designer, safari romp — that’s Guaglianone’s spring inspiration. Graphic Modica collaborated with Alessi proportions play on contrasts with evening fabrics that aren’t housewares before studying fash- conventionally used for HotPants, and red and pink bibs tem- ion. Gigliotti is an architecture per razor-sharp blouses inspired by Picasso’s Cubism. graduate from Milan’s General info: The line was snapped up by retailers such as Politecnico Institute. l’Eclaireur in Paris, Dantone in Milan, Blake Chicago and The duo met in Janet Brown in Port Washington, N.Y. Wholesale prices range the U.S. in 1997 and from $165 for a blouse to a max of $761 for coats. launched Frankie Morello — the name purposely has an Designer: Francesco Scognamiglio Anglo-Italian fl air. History: Born in Pompeii, Italy, in 1975, Scognamiglio opened a small studio in The year after his hometown in 1998 while collaborating for Versace. Though he staged his first came a men’s wear show in 2001, he is now gaining international momentum. collection, followed Design philosophy: He designs for a practical woman who likes a dose of con- ceptual fashion in her closet, new volumes each season and small elements that Continued on page 16 make the difference. PHOTOS BY DAVE YODER ON LOCATION AT LA FORNACE CURTI, MILAN; MODELS: MICHELLE W. (BEATRICE); DOMINIKA KRCMARIKOVA (WHY NOT); HA DOMINIKA KRCMARIKOVA (BEATRICE); MILAN; LA MODELS: MICHELLE W. FORNACE CURTI, AT ON LOCATION YODER DAVE PHOTOS BY “ ... THE AUTHORITY WHEN IT COMES TO BREAKING CELEBRITY NEWS.” 16 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2006

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MILAN FASHION WEEK PREVIEW Ones to Watch Continued from page 14

by a full women’s line in 2004. Since 2005, it has been produced and distributed by Gilmar Group. Design philosophy: The pair blends fabrics, themes and colors, especially in an incongruent and eclectic manner. The collec- tions usually have an artsy vein and small details often become distinctive elements. Summer highlights: A sporty chic attitude distinguished by ex- aggerated volumes, tromp l’oeil pleats, geometric insets and contrasting colors such as gunmetal and pearl gray combined with geranium red. General info: Since Frankie Morello decided to make inroads in the U.S., its efforts haven’t gone unnoticed. It counts some 35 sales points including Stanley Korshak in Dallas, Traffic in Los Angeles and French Corner in New York. Wholesale prices range from $64 for a T-shirt to $888 for constructed jackets and dresses.

Designer: Alessandro De Benedetti History: Born in Genoa, Italy, this 35-year-old designer started his career designing for underground magazines. After study- ing fashion at the Istituto Marangoni, he cut his teeth chez Thierry Mugler and went solo in 1998. Only last year, though, with the support of fashion manufacturer Gentex, did he seri- ously expand on the fashion scene. Design philosophy: De Benedetti describes his fashion vision as “Goth-sensual,” with a diva undercurrent. “I like women with a strong personality, between the aristocratic and the burlesque,” said De Benedetti. “A femme fatale with a retro appeal, like a Hollywood diva from the Forties.” Summer highlights: The spirit is that of magician Houdini and the Surrealism of the Twenties, Thirties and Eighties. Key ele- ments are ultra-precious miniskirts, gold-tinted jeans, beige and brown optical prints and peacock green. General info: Wholesale prices range from $108 for a cotton poplin blouse to $825 for a denim jacket with gold embroidery. Points of sale include H Lorenzo, Los Angeles; Dantone, Milan; L’ Eclaireur, Paris, and Villa Moda, Dubai. ® WATT CINQUE

▲ Frankie Morello’s waffl e cotton and spandex jacket and matching tennis skirt over cotton poplin shirt. tel. 1.212.921.0123 1.212.944.4700 - fax Show-room Attila: 552,Avenue,York, NY 10018 Seventh 2nd Floor - New

Silk blouse and cotton ▼ skirt by Alessandro De Benedetti. Baldinini shoes. MILANO CONTACT PARIS

21ST SEPT - 13TH OCT T: +49 (0)331 23 31 91- 17 2ND OCT - 13TH OCT WUNDERKIND SHOWROOM M: +49 (0)172- 3 82 90 38 SALLE ERARD VIA VERRI 10 [email protected] 13 RUE DU MAIL

PHOTOGRAPHER: INGE PRADER WWW.WUNDERKIND.DE 18 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2006

MILAN FASHION WEEK PREVIEW Spring Pick-Me-Up Retailers continue to count on Milan as a business powerhouse, and generally say their budgets are modestly up. By Amanda Kaiser

INTERNATIONAL RETAILERS ARE GEARING UP FOR MILAN’S SPRING SHOWS than last year in Milan — about 15 percent. Paris is, of course, our biggest budget. next week, expecting voluminous tops, skinny bottoms, leggings, a bevy of dresses Milan is second and New York third. We see dresses that look like tunics and tunics and — most important — lots of order-writing. that look like dresses. I expect a Versace feeling everywhere, but very relaxed and Dolce & Gabbana, Pucci, Fendi, Prada, Marni and Giorgio Armani are just a few young. On the other hand, I hope a modern nomad, like Marc Jacobs presented in of the season’s most hotly anticipated shows. While buyers may turn to Paris for New York, will be present too.” more fashion-forward and experimental pieces, they are still dedicating a large Charbit said he’s looking forward to Prada, Marni, and Dolce & Gabbana for chunk of their order books to Milan for both apparel and accessories. direction, and eager to see the dresses at Alberta Ferretti, Roberto Cavalli, Fendi, Still, foreign buyers need to choose items carefully as exchange rates continue to Missoni and Pucci. bite into their purchasing power. The dollar has weakened against the euro by 4.4 percent since the same time last year, and the yen has weakened against the euro Haru Suzuki, fashion merchandiser, Barneys Japan: “We are keeping the same budget by about 10 percent in the same period. as last year. I’ll be looking for Jil Sander because last season sales were very positive, Expensive as Milan’s wares may be, retail interest in Italian designers is robust. so I’d like to see how [designer Raf Simons] is proceeding. As for Burberry, we don’t buy “Paris is becoming very important for us, but [Milan] as them yet but we liked the pre-collection with its Marine-style a single resource is still the largest in terms of overall bud- striped tops. In Marni’s pre-collection, the dresses were really get, said Andrew Keith, vice president of merchandising at cute. Everybody is doing dresses, but I would like to see some Lane Crawford, who said Milan accounts for 60 percent of nice shirtdresses and blouse tops.” the store’s total buy. Stefan Asbrand-Eickhoff, buying manager at Düsseldorf ’s Stefan Asbrand-Eickhoff, buying manager at Eickhoff Eickhoff Königsallee, had a similar plan. Königsallee, Düsseldorf: “We have Paris, which is very important for the fashion “Milan is getting more important because the big brands part. But in terms of real, deluxe ready-to-wear, the busi- in Milan are getting more important. We’re talking about ness is stronger and more contemporary in Milan,” said designer collections like Dolce & Gabbana, Armani — from Asbrand-Eickhoff, who is dedicating 55 percent of the whom we carry the main line, Collezioni and Emporio — store’s budget to Milan. Versace, Gucci, Pucci, Etro, which is a good package, and Sojin Lee, buying and retail director for U.K.-based Net- Fendi, which is getting bigger. And then there are all the A-Porter.com, said she thinks the momentum toward sack classic brands, like Piazza Sempione. and shift dresses and Eighties and Nineties infl uences “I think summer will be the high point for dresses and will continue in Milan. She likes the ongoing trend to layer then they’ll start to slow down. [Jeans are] a bit over, and the chunky, neutral-hued knits over embellished girly clothes, jeans market may possibly have problems next season.” often in pink, yellow and blue. “There a return this season from last season to pretty,” she said. Andrew Keith, vice president of merchandising, Lane Here’s what some retailers expect this season: Crawford, Hong Kong: “We’re looking forward to Prada, which is always interesting, particularly in terms of trends. Ken Downing, fashion director, Neiman Marcus, Dallas: We want to see what Matthew Williamson is doing in his “Milan is a constant source of inspiration and we look for- second season at Pucci. Dolce & Gabbana will be pivotal.” ward to all of the presentations from all of the Italian hous- Keith said he’s eager to check out Alberta Ferretti and es. Neiman Marcus is expecting to see the continuation of Giorgio Armani, which are strong lines for the store, and sees dresses as we have seen in New York, also color and metal- more momentum for baby-doll dresses and ballet fl ats. lic, from platinum to bright silver.” “We’ve been seeing great growth for the Italian brands in our portfolio,” he noted, “and we hope that will continue.” Jeffrey Kalinsky, owner, Jeffrey New York and Jeffrey Pre-spring looks from Dolce & Gabbana (left) and Prada. Atlanta: “I always look forward to seeing what Miuccia Prada Akihito Naohara, general manager, luxury brands merchan- is doing, [as well as] Frida Giannini at Gucci. I’m a Marni dising, Takashimaya Co., Tokyo: “[Our Milan budget] is up freak. I’m also passionate about what Tomas Maier is doing at Bottega Veneta. I’ve by about 10 percent as we are planning renovations at some stores,” Naohara said. got a mad crush on what Christopher Bailey is doing at Burberry. We do so much com- Milan represents 60 percent of Takashimaya’s overall budget, 70 percent of which is merce in Milan. Jil Sander is the base of my business and I think what Raf Simons has devoted to accessories. His top must-see shows are Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Prada, been doing there is exciting. Bottega Veneta and Fendi. “Milan accounts for over 45 percent of our buy. There’s a lot of classifi cations, not just clothes. Paris accounts for 25 percent and New York, 20 percent. I hope to Rosy Biffi , owner, Biffi and Banner, Milan: “My budget is normal, about 10 to 20 per- spend at least as much as I spent last season in Milan. So far the trend is that we’ve cent up from the previous year. I saw some of the New York shows on the Internet been spending more. The apparel and accessory buy is pretty much equal. and there’s still a big tendency toward volume. We are already selling these looks in “I think we’ll see a whole new vision of fashion in Milan and yet another new Milan. Jackets and blazers are not selling well. It’s not that I don’t want to see them vision in Paris. We’ll see silhouettes like skinny pants, shorts and skirts with vol- [on the runway], but I’m not going to take them into consideration [for spring].” ume. But who knows what else we’ll see — that’s what’s so great. I’m waiting to be surprised. Miuccia is such a trendsetter herself. She could throw everything up in Sojin Lee, buying and retail director, Net-A-Porter.com, London: “I can’t wait to see the air and present something entirely new.” Fendi. I think Silvia [Venturini Fendi] and Karl [Lagerfeld] are doing a fantastic job. There’s been an injection of fun. It’s more relevant. It’s on trend. I always [look forward Cedric Charbit, general merchandising manager at Printemps, Paris: “Italians are to] Bottega Veneta. Tomas [Maier] has brought to life what that brand represents. It’s doing well for us, especially in the summer. So far, we think spending will be greater really about the quality and luxury of the products, which speak for themselves.” WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2006 19

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building’s cultural heritage. Versace maintained the architectural integrity of the red brick tower, the original columns, pillars and brickwork, and a Versace’s New central cross-shaped pillar. The four-story, 3,780-square-foot shop, however, also refl ects other recently renovated Versace boutiques, with lacquered black wood and bright Antelio crystal for the fi ttings. The boutique, which carries the whole range of Theatrics Versace products and features a VIP Atelier area, was launched Wednesday with a cocktail party for around 300 guests. In Christening a renovated a statement, the company said the boutique “is the perfect show venue and store. window for our new retail strategy, based on making the Versace Versace’s reopened Florence boutique. shopping experience more stimulating and enjoyable than ever.” For the occasion, the company introduced the new licensing terms, Versace will personalize interiors of private SEVERAL FASHION HOUSES TODAY RELY ON THEIR OWN Versace Couture Limited Edition “Jet Bag,” a structured, planes with the brand’s new Home Couture line, introduced in theaters as a show location, but Versace will introduce an white quilted nappa tote with the brand’s staple Greek fret Milan last April during the international furniture and design amphitheater to present its spring collection on Sept. 29. motif and the Couture gold tag. exhibition, the Salone del Mobile. The 100 “Jet Bags” will be “The oval room where the show will be held features the The bag refers to this spring’s agreement between Versace available exclusively at Versace boutiques starting in November. same proportions of classical amphitheaters — Rome’s Coliseum and TAG (Techniques d’Avant Garde) Aviation. Under the — Luisa Zargani or the Arena in Verona, for example — an unusual fact for a theater,” explained architect Rocco Magnoli of Studio Spatium, who restored the 1929 Teatro Alcione for Versace. “An elliptical shape is more dynamic than a circle and the focus is not the center, but the straight axis between the two ends — perfect for a runway.” Versace chief executive Giancarlo Di Risio said the company has invested between 3 million and 4 million euros, or $3.8 million and $5 million at current exchange, in the project. “The theater will be part of a new Versace division dedicated to art, culture and fashion,” said Di Risio. “Also, Donatella Versace plans to help promote young designers by allowing them to use this space.” He added that a calendar of events will be ready by the end of the year, when the restoration will be completed. “Theater is part of Versace’s DNA and the company owns an impressive art collection, which we plan to open to the public,” said Di Risio. Versace Teatro will seat about 880 people. Originally designed by architect Saul Venturini, the theater is ensconced in the courtyard of a residential building on Piazza Vetra, a few steps from the San Lorenzo basilica in the increasingly trendy Porta Ticinese area. It escaped World War II bombing and had been closed for more than 15 years. Di Risio spotted the theater last November and began the restoration in April. Magnoli focused on improving the acoustics and on keeping the structure intact, with its original columns and vaults, while stripping it of balconies and galleries added over the years that cut into the geometry of the room. Guests at the show will not be able to view that part of the structure, however, as it will be shrouded in a thick, black synthetic covering. “There are no borders, which adds a sense of infi nity,” he said. This neutral space will also be able to hold different events, according to the architect. “It’s fl exible,” said Magnoli. Although there is a main entrance on Piazza Vetra, which looks onto the foyer, there are other entrances on four other streets intersecting around the building. “These entrances are almost like windows for us, giving more vitality to the area’s streetscape.” Magnoli is a longtime Versace architect who has also worked on the Palazzo Versace hotel on Australia’s Gold Coast. This week, Versace also reopened its Florence boutique on Via De’ Tornabuoni, near the city’s iconic Ponte Vecchio. The store, located in a historical medieval tower (previously Palazzo Spini) was restored over the past year — a delicate project under city regulations to preserve the 20 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2006

MILAN FASHION WEEK PREVIEW Show Calendar Following is the calendar of spring ready-to-wear runway collections and presentations in Milan, Sept. 23-30. Information is accurate as of press time, but attendees are encouraged to confirm dates, times and locations. Milano Moda Donna is located at Fashion Milan Center, 5 Via Gattamelata.

Saturday, Sept. 23 3 to 8 p.m.: Midali Toujours, 22 Via Montenapoleone Viale Umbria 11 a.m.: Elena Miro, Milano Moda Marghera 5 to 9 p.m.: Alviero Martini, 38 Via 6:30 to 9:30 p.m.: Tommy Hilfiger, 2/A Donna San Barnaba Piazza Oberdan Noon: Pin Up Stars, Milano Moda Monday, Sept. 25 5:30 to 9:30 p.m.: Piazza Sempione, 7 to 9:30 p.m.: FWS — Fiona Winter, Donna 9 a.m.: Unrath & Strano, Milano Moda 18 Via Vigevano Via Solferino, corner of Via Marsala 1 p.m.: N-U-D-E: New upcoming de- Donna 6 to 8:30 p.m.: MCM, 57 Corso Venezia 7 to 11 p.m.: Gamme Rouge, Palazzo signers, Milano Moda Donna 9:45 a.m.: Debora Sinibaldi, Milano 6 to 9 p.m.: Scholl by Diego, 21 Via Reale, Via Pecorari 2 p.m.: Ab Soul, Milano Moda Donna Moda Donna Santo Spirito 3 p.m.: Shirt Passion, Milano Moda 10:30 a.m.: Alessandro de Benedetti, 6:30 p.m. to midnight: Brunello Wednesday, Sept. 27 Donna Milano Moda Donna Cucinelli, 16 Viale Montello 9:45 a.m.: Gaetano Navarra, Milano 4 p.m.: Miss Bikini, Milano Moda 11:15 a.m.: Blugirl, Milano Moda 6:30 p.m. to midnight: Gunex, 16 Viale Moda Donna Donna Donna Montello 10:30 a.m.: Angelo Marani, Milano 4:45 p.m.: Seduzioni Diamonds Noon: Salvatore Ferragamo, Milano 6:30 p.m. to midnight: Rivamonti, 16 Moda Donna Valeria Marini, Milano Moda Donna Moda Donna Viale Montello 10:30 a.m.: Alessandro Dell’Acqua, 29 6 p.m.: Norma Luisa, 2 Via Pietro 12:45 p.m.: C’N’C Costume National, 8:30 p.m. to 12:30 a.m.: Y’s Via S. Gregorio Mascagni Milano Moda Donna Mandarina, 10 Corso Como 11:15 a.m.: Mariella Burani, Milano 8 p.m.: Roberta di Camerino, 4 Via 2 p.m.: D&G, 24 Viale Piave Moda Donna Procaccini 3 p.m.: Giorgio Armani, 59 Via Tuesday, Sept. 26 Noon: Antonio Marras, Milano Moda Borgognone 9 a.m.: Marni, 29 Via San Gregorio Donna Presentations 4 p.m.: Giorgio Armani, 59 Via 9:45 a.m.: Pierluigi Fucci, Milano 1 p.m.: Just Cavalli, 4 Via Procaccini 11 a.m. to 1 p.m.: Gattinoni, 5 Via Borgognone Moda Donna 2 p.m.: Alberta Ferretti, Giardini di Serbelloni, 5 5 p.m.: Brioni, 34 Via Turati 10 a.m.: Marni, 29 Via San Gregorio Porta Venezia — Via Palestro 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.: Gianni Calignano, 6 p.m.: Burberry Prorsum, 16 Corso 10:30 a.m.: Enrico Coveri, Milano 3 p.m.: Trussardi, 5 Piazza Scala 16 Corso Monforte Venezia Moda Donna 4 p.m.: Moschino Cheap & Chic, 5 Via Noon to 5 p.m.: Pancaldi & B, 3 Corso 7 p.m.: Daniela Grecis, 23/A 11:15 a.m.: Etro, Milano Moda Donna Bezzecca di Porta Romana Piazza Sant’Ambrogio Noon: La Perla, Milano Moda Donna 5 p.m.: Gucci, 2/B Piazza Oberdan 1 to 5 p.m.: Roberta Scarpa, 7 p.m.: Maurizio Pecoraro, TBA 12:45 p.m.: Rocco Barocco, Milano 6 p.m.: Gucci, 2/B Piazza Oberdan Milano Fashion Center 8 p.m.: Pringle of Scotland, 4 Via Moda Donna 7 p.m.: Anna Molinari, Piazza dei 4 to 8 p.m.: Giorgio Grati, 10 Via Procaccini 2 p.m.: Alberto Biani, 42 Viale Piave Mercanti Montenapoleone 9 p.m.: Belstaff, 6 Viale Alemagna 3 p.m.: Moschino, Giardini di Porta 8 p.m.: Valentin Yudashkin, 34 Via Venezia — Via Palestro Turati Sunday, Sept. 24 Presentations 4 p.m.: Bottega Veneta, 15/17 Viale 9 p.m.: Jenny Packham, 29 Via San 10 a.m.: Agatha Ruiz de la Prada, 9:30 a.m. to 7 p.m.: Ballantyne, 49 Piceno Gregorio Milano Moda Donna Corso Italia 5 p.m.: Pollini by Rifat Ozbek, 5 Via 11 a.m.: Luciano Soprani, 9:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.: Rossimoda, 3 Bezzecca Presentations Milano Moda Donna Via Senato, 3rd floor 6 p.m.: Prada, 36 Via Fogazzaro 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.: Car Shoe, 1 Via Spiga Noon: Fisico, Milano Moda Donna 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.: Allegri, 36 Via 7 p.m.: Prada, 36 Via Fogazzaro 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.: Lanificio Colombo, 1 p.m.: Clips, Milano Moda Donna Stendhal, enter on Via Solari 8 p.m.: Paola Frani, Via Cadore, corner 9 Via Montenapoleone 2 p.m.: Lorenzo Riva, Milano Moda 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.: Daks, 35 Via Tortona of Via Anfossi 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.: Church’s, 11 Via Donna 10 to 6 p.m.: Gas Donna, 27 Via 8 p.m.: 6267, 48 Via S. Barnaba Sant’Andrea 3 p.m.: Kristina Ti, Milano Moda Tortona 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.: New York Industrie, Donna 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.: Mario Valentino, 27 Presentations 32 Via Morosini 4 p.m.: Mila Schön, Milano Moda Via Borgonuovo 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.: Bally, 17 Via San 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.: Flexa, 1 Via Donna 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.: Shiro, 3 Piazza San Rocco Montenapoleone 6 p.m.: Roberto Musso, Milano Moda Marco 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.: Elie Tahari, 11/A 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.: Fratelli Rossetti, 1 Donna 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.: Strenesse, 2/4 Via Via Bigli Via Montenapoleone 7 p.m.: Thes & Thes by Thes Tziveli, Morimondo 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.: H.O.T., 42 Via 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.: Loro Piana, 22 Via 29 Via San Gregorio Noon to 6 p.m.: Gigliola Curiel, 18 Via Garian Bigli 8 p.m.: Francesco Scognamiglio, 5 Via Tortona 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.: S. Ferragamo Noon to 6 p.m.: Cesare Paciotti, 8 Via Meravigli Noon to 6 p.m.: C.P. Co., 54 Via Savona Accessories, 2 Via Borgospesso Sant’Andrea 9 p.m.: Sonia Fortuna, 34 Via Turati 2 to 8 p.m: Marcus Telles, 35 Via 2 to 8 p.m.: Ken Scott, 5 Via Noon to 6:30 p.m.: Sergio Rossi, 9 Via Tortona Burlamacchi Montenapoleone Presentations 2:30 to 6:30 p.m.: Erreuno, 27 Via 2 to 6 p.m.: Sissi Rossi, 18 Via Anfossi 1 to 5 p.m: Antonella Manoli, 6 Via 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.: Mario Valentino, 27 Tortona 3 to 8 p.m.: Osklen, 7 Via Bergamo Senato Via Borgonuovo 3 to 7 p.m.: Romeo Gigli, 6 Via 4 to 9 p.m.: Martha Milano, 29 Via 2 to 8 p.m.: Agnona, 27/E Via 1 to 7 p.m.: Fuzzi, 1 Piazza Tito Fumagalli Fogazzaro Montenapoleone Lucrezio Caro 4 to 9 p.m.: Mario Bologna, 2 Piazza 6 to 8 p.m.: Calvin Klein, 37 Viale 2 to 6 p.m.: Gianmarco Lorenzi, 1 Via 3 to 8 p.m.: Martino Midali, 22 Via Principessa Clotilde Umbria Montenapoleone Marghera 4:30 to 6 p.m.: Luca Moretti, 6/A Via 6 to 8 p.m.: Calvin Klein Jeans, 37 2 to 9 p.m.: Armando de Vincentiis, 42 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2006 21

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Fashion Milan Center is home to Milano Moda Donna.

Viale Piave Presentations Moda Donna Via Montenapoleone 2 to 8 p.m.: Gianvito Rossi, 3 Via Santo 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.: Bric’s, Galleria 12:30 p.m.: Gianfranco Ferré, 21 Via 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.: Les Tropeziennes, Spirito Vittorio Emanuele Pontaccio 10 Via Borgonuovo 2 to 8 p.m.: Gilli, 5 Via Spiga 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.: Furla, 18 Via 1:30 p.m.: Dsquared2, 4 Via Procaccini Noon to 6 p.m.: Baldinini, 13 Via 2 to 6 p.m.: Pierantonio Gaspari, 10 Sant’Andrea 2:30 p.m.: Gianfranco Ferré, 21 Via Montenapoleone Via Santo Spirito 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.: Valentino Orlandi, Pontaccio Noon to 7 p.m.: Isabella Tonchi, 5 Via 3 to 7 p.m.: Luciano Barbera, 22 Via 10/A Via Sant’Andrea 2:30 p.m.: Kei Kagami, TBA Maroncelli Santo Spirito 11 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.: Fabiana Filippi, 3:30 p.m.: Iceberg, 10 Via Palermo 3 to 8 p.m.: Francesco Biasia, 16 Via Bigli 6 to 9 p.m.: Coccinelle, 24 Via 32 Via Spiga 4:30 p.m.: Luisa Beccaria, 17/A Via 5 to 7 p.m.: Annapiu Tricot, 26 Via Spiga Borgonuovo Noon to 7 p.m.: Giuseppe Zanotti Fiori Chiari 6 to 9 p.m.: Derercuny, 8 Via Gesù Design, 18 Via Montenapoleone 5:30 p.m.: Gianni Versace, 1 Piazza Saturday, Sept. 30 Noon to 7 p.m.: Vicini, 18 Via Vetra 9:30 a.m.: Anteprima, Milano Moda Thursday, Sept. 28 Montenapoleone 6:30 p.m.: Cividini, 6 Via G. Negri Donna 9 a.m.: Aigner, Milano Moda Donna Noon to 7 p.m.: Bliss, 25 Piazza Duomo 6:30 p.m.: Philosophy by Alberta 10:30 a.m.: Missoni, Milano Moda 9:45 a.m.: Max Mara, Milano Moda 9:30 to 11:30 a.m.: Who Is on Next, Ferretti, Giardini di Porta Venezia Donna Donna Milano Fashion Center — Via Palestro 11:15 a.m.: Byblos, Milano Moda 10:30 a.m.: Trend Les Copains, Milano 3 to 8 p.m.: Scavia Accessories, 1 7:30 p.m.: Ter et Bantine, 15 Via S. Donna Moda Donna Piazza Cavour Francesco d’Assisi 12:30 p.m.: Frankie Morello, Milano 11:15 a.m.: Emilio Pucci, Milano Moda 6 to 8 p.m.: CK Calvin Klein, 29 Via 7:30 p.m.: Haute, 2 Via Valenza Moda Donna Donna San Gregorio 8:30 p.m.: Gentucca Bini, TBA 1 p.m.: Roberto Cavalli, 4 Via Noon: Amuleti J, Milano Moda Donna 6 to 10 p.m.: René Caovilla, 2 Via Procaccini 1 p.m.: Laura Biagiotti, 6 Via Rivoli Sant’Andrea Presentations 2:30 p.m.: Love Sex Money, Milano 2 p.m.: Dolce & Gabbana, 24 7 to 10 p.m.: Jo No Fui, 35 Via Tortona 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.: Jimmy Choo, 3 Via Moda Donna Viale Piave Fratelli Gabba, 1st floor 3:30 p.m.: Malloni, Milano Moda 3 p.m.: Krizia, 21 Via Manin Friday, Sept. 29 10:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.: Roy Roger’s Donnaww 4 p.m.: Fendi, 3 Via Sciesa 9 a.m.: Evisu, Milano Moda Donna Jeans, 18 Via Sant’Andrea 4:30 p.m.: Russian Fashion, Milano 5 p.m.: John Richmond, 12 Via Besana 9:45 a.m.: Sportmax, Milano Moda 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.: Le Cristalline by Moda Donna 6 p.m.: Borbonese, 51 Corso Venezia Donna FWS, 14 Via Montenapoleone 7 p.m.: Jil Sander, 15 Via Ventura 10:30 a.m.: Ermano Scervino, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.: Le Silla, 14 Via Presentations 8 p.m.: Jil Sander, 15 Via Ventura Milano Moda Donna Montenapoleone 3 to 7 p.m.: Young Fashion, 42 Viale 11:15 a.m.: Blumarine, Milano 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.: Le Silla Project, 14 Piave

9/13/06 11:27:07 AM 22 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2006

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MILAN FASHION WEEK PREVIEW Gucci’s Big Night The iconic brand is getting ready to party during fashion week.

TALK ABOUT PLAYING IT CLOSE TO THE VEST. Details about Gucci’s party next Wednesday celebrating its 85th anniversary and the launch of a book about the brand have been so closely guarded, the company elected not to build the party space until next week. “Gucci by Around 500 guests, including press, friends and yet-to-be con- Gucci” fi rmed celebrities, are expected to attend the event, which kicks off celebrates at 10 p.m. Gucci said the space at 3 Via Melegari in central Milan is 85 years being specially constructed just for the party. of company Gucci’s creative director, Frida Giannini, will host the event with history. Gucci chief executive Mark Lee. Headlining the entertainment will ■ be R&B singer-pianist John Legend, followed by DJ lounge music. On display during the evening will be the fi rst copies of “Gucci by Gucci” — a tome penned by fashion journalist Sarah Mower that tells the history of the brand and its celebrity admirers through pictures and text. The space is being built from black and transparent PVC and features a lobby, lounge, private room, performance area and three bars. Interior design details include illuminated laser-cut totem poles — from which im- ages of the book will be projected — gray velvet lounge chairs and cushions, and silver chrome tables. Chocolates featuring the famous interlocking Gs, and of course, Champagne, are among the treats on the menu. — Stephanie Epiro ▲ Top: Jodie Foster outside the Gucci store in Rome in the Seventies, in an image from Images from the book jacket. “Gucci by Gucci.” Peter Sellers in London, September 1969, from the book. PHOTO BY S. ARCHETTI/FARABOLAFOTO; FOSTER COURTESY OF GUCCI FOSTER COURTESY S. ARCHETTI/FARABOLAFOTO; PHOTO BY

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FOR ADVERTISING INFORMATION contact Heddy Sams, Associate Publisher (212) 286-3765 [email protected] A CONDÉ NAST PUBLICATION 24 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2006 WWD.COM

Denim Dish Parasuco Unveils Remodeled Montreal Flagship Parasuco’s Montreal fl agship reopened for business in company-owned stores stemmed from his desire last week following a nine-month renovation that dou- to showcase the brand’s entire range of products. bled its size to 12,000 square feet. Retail buyers, said Parasuco, were only purchasing Glasser and Rucker Unite Inside, shoppers will fi nd a bigger selection of the company’s denim products. He was also running men’s clothing, outerwear, dressier coats and sweat- o u t of customers, particularly in Michael Glasser, co-founder of denim heavy- ers in addition to footwear and accessories for men Canada, which has been in- weights Seven For All Mankind and Citizens of and women. The company expects the $4.5 million vaded by large American Humanity, is back in the game. renovation to boost annual sales to about $9 million and European retail- After much-publicized splits and multimillion- within 18 months, compared with the $3.5 million ers like Zara, H&M, dollar payouts from his former partners in the two the store currently generates. Abercrombie & Southern California brands, Glasser is emerging “You have to be a little crazy to invest this much Fitch, Hollister and from a two-year retirement. money in a store in Montreal, but the city forms American Eagle that He’s teaming with designer Joie Rucker, founder the core of our label’s identity and is the birth- don’t buy wholesale of Joie, a contemporary sportswear line in which place of our company,” said founder and owner from Parasuco. she is no longer involved, to launch a denim label Salvatore Parasuco. “We therefore felt it was im- Although the called Rich & Skinny. portant to have a fl agship that refl ects who we are SoHo store is doing Though deliberately cheeky in name, Rich & and what we have built here in the past 31 years.” well, it hasn’t been a Skinny is all business. With wholesale prices rang- The reopening was smooth ride. Parasuco ing from $94 to $120, Glasser forecasts hitting $20 the latest in Parasuco’s is suing the contractor of million in sales in the fi rst year. push to expand the a condo development for He is unveiling the line this week at New York’s company’s retail op- water damage to his store and Fashion Coterie trade fair, and plans to ship the erations across North the obstruction of his store’s sign. fi rst orders in late November to between 30 and 40 America. The fi rm al- On a positive note, a retailer from key retailers for the holiday season. ready has eight stores the Middle East was so impressed Department stores and specialty shops that in Canada and expects with Parasuco’s SoHo store that have placed orders at Coterie include Neiman to have 30 within the there is talk of opening a shop in Marcus, Nordstrom, Selfridges in London, Hong next three years. A the seven-star Burj al-Arab hotel Kong’s Joyce, Havana Jeans in Scarsdale, N.Y., Vancouver unit is in Dubai with other partners. Blue Bee in Santa Barbara, Calif., Japan’s Isetan slated to open in Next on the horizon are stores and Lisa Kline and Planet Blue, both in Southern November, followed in Asia, where Parasuco plans California. by a Parasuco hotel to design exclusive products, in- The pairing of Glasser and Rucker is a study in in Toronto next year. cluding a footwear collection, a contrasts and an example of the lengths to which Parasuco’s first U.S. A view of the new interior; line of children’s clothing and entrepreneurs will go to fi nd the best partner and fl agship opened in May Inset: Salvatore Parasuco. fashion accessories, including create the right product. Rucker is the bubbly on the edge of SoHo in sunglasses. blonde surfer chick to Glasser’s straight-talking New York. A second American store is slated to make “We already have six stores in South Korea through businessman hewn from a New York childhood its debut at the end of the month in the Westfi eld San a partnership and our new store at the Westfi eld San and some 30 years in the garment industry, dating Francisco Center and a third store is planned next Francisco Center at the end of the month will bolster back to his fi rst denim company, French Dressing, spring on Robertson Boulevard in Los Angeles, for a our position in the Asian market,” he said. “As well, in 1974. After logging 10 years of experience at total investment said to be near $25 million. Stores in our store in Los Angeles will give us a stronger pres- Guess Inc. and Levi Strauss & Co. and co-founding Chicago and Las Vegas are also in the works. ence in fi lm and entertainment circles.” contemporary brand Joie in 2001, Rucker started Parasuco’s decision to make a major investment — Brian Dunn California-inspired casualwear labels Puka and ArchIndigo on her own last year. Due to a lack of fi nancing, however, she discontinued the lines this past spring. In early July, Glasser asked Rucker to meet and Replay’s Roller Derby he gave her a swatch of a stretch denim made by a French mill that blended cotton with Lycra span- Replay got things rolling for the runway show of its dex and Tencel. The duo soon began working on spring and summer collection on Tuesday night with the line in Rucker’s 5,500-square-foot studio in help from the members of the Gotham Girls Roller Santa Monica, Calif. Derby league. Glasser said he invested more than $1 million The Italian denim and fashion brand specially de- of his own money in the new venture, which em- signed a catwalk outside its SoHo store in Manhattan ploys 12 people. He hired Rebecca Valdez and to allow models with nicknames like Tramp O’Lean, Norbert Juds, both of whom worked with him at GoGo BaiBai, Lil’ Miss Stuffi t Seven and Citizens, to oversee production and and Arial Assault to keep handle pattern making, respectively. The major- Michael Glasser their skates on while model- ity shareholder, Glasser gave minor stakes in the and Joie Rucker, ing Replay’s wares. company to Rucker, Valdez and Juds, all of whom founders of Rich Thierry Andretta, presi- hold the title of vice president. & Skinny, in their dent of Replay’s U.S. op- “These people are running their own show Santa Monica, erations, said the company with me,” Glasser said. “They’re really good at Calif., studio. began working with Gotham what they do.” Girls this spring when the They have to be if Rich & Skinny wants to suc- brand became the league’s ceed in the competitive denim market, which official denim sponsor. In counts more than 300 U.S. denim brands. Despite July, the Replay store was an uncertain economy, sales continue to climb in the host for auditions to fi nd the sector for women’s jeans priced at more than a new announcer. $100. According to The NPD Group, a market “We really like their per- research fi rm in Port Washington, N.Y., sales of sonality, the way they pres- women’s jeans priced at more than $100 hit $192 ent themselves and the way million in the 12 months ended July, up 32 percent they build this kind of team,” from $145 million a year ago. Members of the said Andretta. “It’s very posi- Rich & Skinny offers 13 styles, ranging from Gotham Girls Roller tive and there’s a lot of dif- a miniskirt punked up with two decorative zip- Derby league. ferent personalities.” pers in the front to tight knee-length shorts. The Along with the Gotham fi ve-pocket jeans come in four silhouettes: a basic Girls’ varied and distinct personalities comes an equally straight-leg, a low-cut skinny style, a legging jean broad range of body types, which Andretta feels gave the and a boot-cut model. To help the line stand out in show a more realistic feel. Although Replay hired stylist a sea of blue jeans and offer retailers a chance to Jorge Ramon for the show, Andretta said the girls made customize their orders, Rucker and Glasser plan their own decisions about what they would wear, while the to make all 13 styles available in 15 colors, includ- company focused on giving the show a logical stylistic fl ow. ing pink, red and coral. “We only worked with them to make sure we weren’t The pair didn’t spare attention or expense on de- Spring looks going from one extreme piece in the collection to anoth- tail. The zippers, produced by Riri in Switzerland from Rich er,” said Andretta. and Italy, are coated in 24-karat gold. Strips of & Skinny The show drew a crowd as diverse as its models. silk printed with wildfl owers line the pockets and are done in “It was really a mixed event, with the public, some waistband, and a velvet patch in deep purple is high-quality celebrities and even socialities,” said Andretta. embroidered with the company’s name in Gothic fabric and Adult fi lm star Heather Hunter, Queer Eye’s Carson script for “rich” and a thin font for “skinny.” eye-catching Kressley and socialite Tinsley Mortimer were among those The buttons embossed with the letter “R” in colors. who attended. Gothic script were derived from a Cartier cuff “We also had some of our wholesale accounts come, and they link. Glasser said he wants to trademark the were really happy to feel the energy of the event and see our fash- placement of the embroidered letter “R” on the ion show is different,” Andretta added. “They could also see how right-hand border of the back right pocket. our show features real consumers.” — Khanh T.L. Tran — Ross Tucker PHOTOS BY MICAH BAIRD PHOTOS BY PHOTOS BY ZACK SECKLER PHOTOS BY Cotton is always soft – except when defending our trademark.

The Seal of Cotton trademark carries a lot of power with consumers. That’s why,at Cotton Incorporated,we work so hard to protect its integrity – it can only be used with our permission, and in a manner that complies with our terms of use. Our staff of attorneys is constantly on the lookout for cases of unautho- rized or improper use. The Seal of Cotton is a valuable sales tool. We’re working hard to protect it for you. It all goes to ensure that you can enjoy the many benefits of the trademark:

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AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. ®Registered Service Mark/Trademark of Cotton Incorporated. © Cotton Incorporated, 2006. 26 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2006 WWD.COM The Beat Fashion Coterie Does Double Duty By Julee Greenberg NEW YORK — Spring is in full swing at ENK International’s Fashion Coterie trade show. The event, which has been split between the Show Piers and Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, ends today — and it has been busy indeed. With about 1,100 ex- hibitors spread over the two venues, exhibitors seemed pleased with the traffi c and retailers had a lot to digest. For Nancy Paley, owner of the Birmingham, Mich.-based Edward Dorian boutique, this show was a must. “I come in for the two Coteries and have done so for 17 years,” she said. “I really don’t have a clear vision of what I’m looking for…when I see it, I’ll know. I will look at holiday, but we are mostly set for that. I really just want to get a jump on spring.” Stacey Pecor, owner of four Olive & Bette’s stores here, said: “There’s so much to see, but since these [Intermezzo and Coterie trade] shows are now so close together, I feel like I’ve already seen a lot of it.…Also, Clockwise from left: A bestseller for I know that the colors for spring are muted and, really, Charlotte Ronson; two new looks from I’m looking for more bright colors to make the store Saint Grace, and a look from Kova & look inviting. It’s going to be interesting to see how T, which is launching for spring. spring ends up for retail.” On the exhibitor side, Kova & T, a new line at styles, but Alexa Economou, sales manager for the company, said the boot-cut Showroom Seven here, was showing for the fi rst time. styles were still the best booked. Started by childhood friends Christina Tang and Dasha “We evolved from a trouser line, Raven Tailor, which is the line we started Zhukova, the collection is based around denim jeans, with,” she said. “So our trouser jeans also do really well since we are known for but also includes a full range of contemporary sports- the fi t. Also, buyers have been asking for an extreme wide leg, which is some- wear. There were herringbone dresses in cream and thing new.” beige, a black leather dress, a mix of denim and linen The Raven Denim line wholesales from $88 to $120. shorts and dark-wash skinny jeans. At Tyler Speed, which began as a men’s line in 2001, owner Cobi Levy intro- “It’s clean, but with a bit of that rock ’n’ roll edge,” duced the company’s fi rst women’s collection. Tang said of the collection. “I think there’s this need in the market for a boyish T-shirt line,” Levy said. The Kova & T line wholesales from $20 to $300. “Our men’s customers have been asking for it and I know there’s a lot of women Sales reps from contemporary T-shirt line Saint out there who buy the men’s and wear it themselves.” Grace were at the show, with an array of colorful T- Tyler Speed’s line includes cotton and jersey T-shirts, tanks, hoodies, leggings shirts, tanks and dresses for spring. There’s a feather- and dresses. To design the line, Levy has created his own fabric and works with weight pima cotton dress with pockets, a logo-printed it to achieve a vintage feeling. tank top that is long enough to be a dress and an array “We work with it and work with it until it’s just perfect,” he said. “Nothing of cashmere sweaters that launched for holiday. Saint can look forced, that’s really important. It has to look natural.” Grace wholesales from $14 to $122. The Tyler Speed line, which comes in muted tones including pink, blue,

At Raven Denim, skinny jeans were still big booking ANTONOV PAVEL PHOTO BY green and gray, wholesales from $24 to $55. Designers & Agents Attracts Record Crowd to New York NEW YORK — The Designers & Agents trade Showroom, wholesales from $50 to $86. show, which ended a three-day run on Tuesday, Milan-based Pepita, an accessories line, keeps growing. made its debut New York appearance at D&A. The music that fi lled the hallways of the “Each piece is made from real vintage met- A spring 13th and 14th fl oors of the Starrett-Lehigh als and fabrics from around the world,” said dress Building here on Monday morning soon be- Sveva Camurati, designer of the line. from came an undertone to the sounds of vendors The collection includes necklaces, ear- Deener. and retailers buzzing through the show. rings, bracelets and headbands. Camurati said The event, which originated in Los a bestseller was the fi ne brass necklace with Angeles, appeared to have its most suc- hand-stitched prints made from old French cessful installment, taking over six stu- For Love tablecloths, sheets and handkerchiefs. Pepita dio spaces, compared with four or fi ve and Liberty wholesales from $17 to $72. studio spaces previously, and showing did well with Sales reps at For Love and Liberty, a contem- about 450 designers. There also were muted colors. porary sportswear line from Los Angeles, were additions including the quiet room, a booking a fi tted hoodie with skull logo detailing, small space decorated with candles and a silk chiffon navy and black wrap dress, and an artwork available for any guest looking the 300 million starving children worldwide, array of T-shirts with crystal detailing. The line for some relaxation, and the Brooklyn Bush said. wholesales from $20 to $140. area, which was reserved for a select Meanwhile, retailers walking the fl oor were “The line is much more muted than it was, group of 11 Brooklyn-based designers. happy with this season’s assortment. it’s not heavily embellished, but more creamy “We realize that Brooklyn really “There’s really always something new at this and romantic,” said Kristiana Hines, a sales is a creative and interesting element show, which is why I always make the time to representative at the fi rm. of emerging talent in New York,” said come,” said Tamara Weiss, owner of Midnight ZenBunni, a Topanga, Calif.-based organic T- Barbara Kramer, a founding partner of Farm, a 5,000-square-foot contemporary bou- shirt fi rm, was also at the show for the fi rst time. the show. “There are some great designers tique in Vineyard Haven, Mass. “I just saw a “We have a lot of interest in what we do,” there that just need a little push to help great line called Sigana. I love their silk vin- said Zen Nishimura, co-founder of the business them develop their businesses.” tage-inspired tops and dresses.” with his wife, Bunni. “I think that people think In addition, Kramer said she donated Ling-Su Chinn, owner of the Los Angeles-based that you can’t make a fashionable line with or- a booth to a charitable foundation called boutique Planet Blue, said at D&A “there’s always ganic fabrics, I just don’t think it’s true.” FEED, which was developed by Lauren new product. This show really is quite cutting ZenBunni was developed from the husband- Bush and the United Nations World Food edge with a great energy about it. And they really and-wife team’s interest in simple living and their Program. Bush was at the show to educate cater to the buyer and make it easier to shop.” love of art. The two also run an art gallery next people about the program, and also hoped At Deener, a denim line developed by Ya-el door to their home in Topanga. The T-shirt line to pick up some distribution for the revers- Torbati, co-founder of Yanuk, buyers liked the came from their appreciation of art and nature. ible tote bag she designed for the charity. Seventies-inspired mix of washes in skinny For spring, the line features bright colors, “The proceeds from the sale of each styles and high-waisted cigarette jeans. Michelle like lime green, purple and pink. The sayings on bag will go to feed one child in school Roberts, a sales representative for the brand, the shirts always remain positive, like “Spread for one year,” Bush explained. said the denim dresses and vests were also book- Your Wings” and “Mother Nature.” Each T-shirt, The bags, which will sell for $45 ing well. The Deener line, based in Los Angeles for men and women, wholesales for $40. each, represent an effort to help feed some of and with New York representation at the Noetic — J.G. WWD & FURLA

FOR STORE LOCATIONS, ON-LINE SHOPPING OR FRANCHISE INFORMATION PLEASE VISIT WWW.FURLAUSA.COM

TM . 28 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2006 WWD.COM

When sizing up a retailer, scrutinizing gross margins is essential. The numbers tell the story, measuring how well TheWWDList a retailer buys and sells at the best price. Climbing gross margins means a company is either cutting costs or getting higher prices for its goods. Just ask Abercrombie & Fitch, which scored a 66.49 percent gross margin by relentlessly catering to its core teen niche. It and American Eagle Outfi tters had strong back-to-school sales, which will pump High Profit Makers up margins this year. Overall, every company here handily beat the WWD industry gross margin rate for specialty Top publicly traded specialty retailers, ranked by most recent annual gross margins. retailers, which is 39.49 percent. — Constance Gustke

ABERCROMBIE & FITCH CO. Gross profi t margin: 66.49 percent “We go after the cool kids,” A&F chief executive offi cer Mike Jeffries told Salon magazine in January, explaining why his polo shirts and jeans sell. The result: lean inventory and fast turns, which equal high gross margins. These practices, and the fact that Jeffries himself embodies the perfect blend of business and creativity smarts that propel margins, explain why A&F landed in the number-one slot here. Margin rates are inching up this 1 year, too, buoyed by lower markdowns.

CHICO’S FAS INC. 61.02 percent Shifting sales mixes within a brand boosted Chico’s margins last year, said company reports. The reason: The Chico’s brand has signifi cantly higher margins than its Soma or Fitigues offerings. This spring, the retailer began moving its Soma lingerie inventory onto new enterprise resource planning software — part of a company-wide technology makeover — to speed growth and replenishment demands. Chico’s will need 2 an ace or two up its sleeve this year, though, as its long-term growth slows. Even ceo Scott Edmonds admitted there was a “lack of wear-now merchandise.” Sales of embroidered jackets have slumped the most.

CLAIRE’S STORES INC. 54.31 percent This Wall Street darling, run by two sisters, enjoys consistently high sales and margins. Since taking the company reins in 2002, Marla and Bonnie Schaefer — daughters of the founder — have reorganized the retailer, hired its fi rst chief information offi cer and done market research to make sure they create the right merchandise mix. Consequently, gross margins are soaring, hovering over 45 percent for the past few years. Strong sales 3 on items like high-margin rhinestone jewelry helps.

ANNTAYLOR STORES CORP. 50.94 percent By monitoring inventory turnover, markdowns and sell-throughs, Ann Taylor scores high margins. The momentum is continuing this year with even stronger margins due to more “full-price selling,” said Ann Taylor’s president and ceo Kay Krill. She added the “assortment in each division was brand appropriate,” which helped improve the retailer’s inventory of updated classics. Krill has coaxed sales by creating brand books for Ann 4 Taylor and the Loft that “really defi ned the iconic customer” — the professional market.

MOTHERS WORK INC. 50.6 percent Motherhood suits this retailer. It was started by Rebecca Matthias — now president and chief operating offi cer — who saw that fashion-starved mothers-to-be would snap up well designed maternity clothes. Brands include Destination Maternity (a maternity superstore), Two Hearts (only 5 available at Sears), A Pea in the Pod (luxe designer brands) and even a maternity spa called Edaname. Still, the company said “the oversupply of maternity apparel” affected net margins in 2005, which declined slightly. This year, Mothers Work is partly focusing on its superstores, which have lower operating expenses that hike profi t margins over time.

BEBE STORES INC. 49.65 percent Remember Ally McBeal? Calista Flockhart wore Bebe minisuits while playing her hip character. And she sums up Bebe’s customer: smart and classy. Thus, the chic retailer’s target customers — ages 21 to 35 — feeds sales growth, turnover and thus, gross margins. Bebe’s 2006 gross mar- gins are holding strong, aided by more fuller-priced selling. That Eva Longoria wore Bebe’s sexy separates on “Desperate Housewives” doesn’t 6 hurt, either.

AMERICAN EAGLE OUTFITTERS INC. 46.5 percent Graphic T-shirts and denim fuel American Eagle’s profi ts. American Eagle beat analysts’ estimates with an 11 percent increase in same-store sales last August, making the most of back-to-school sales. After nearly tanking in 2003 by stocking outdated apparel, the company began forging a 7 strong connection to its quixotic 15- to 25-year-old customers. The result: focus groups where kids are queried, stores with couches for hanging out and Oracle systems technology for sourcing inventory.

CACHE INC. 45.57 percent By tapping into the teen market, Cache is moving its casual sportswear. “Our customer wants what the teens are wearing, but interpreted differently,” ceo Brian Woolf told WWD early this year. And its spring collection, including boleros, Lurex turtlenecks and crocheted halters, also 8 capitalizes on teen trends. After largely sourcing domestically, Cache is now starting to source overseas, which can dramatically boost margins.

COLDWATER CREEK INC. 45.56 percent Surging sales at this Sandpoint, Idaho retailer help fatten margins. Last year, there were fewer markdowns and “improved merchandise margins on sales in all channels,” according to a company report. This year, Coldwater Creek is pushing ahead again by resoundingly beating Wall Street earnings estimates in the second quarter; sales rose 41 percent from a year ago, as well. Web sales, becoming a good chunk of net overall revenues, 9 were up 30 percent in the same quarter.

J. CREW GROUP INC. 41.75 percent Building on key items like chinos, T-shirts and dresses, J. Crew is cruising to higher margins. Millard Drexler, J.Crew’s chairman and ceo, explained, “We look at the investment by style and product….The rule is, if the goods are good, you usually beat your plan.” High-volume 10 specialists like J. Crew are leveraging lean inventories and faster turns to build stronger gross margins. “We are very religious about key franchise categories,” Drexler added.

SOURCE: EDGARPRO, COMPILED BY FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS’ FINANCIAL NEWS SERVICE WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2006 29 WWD.COM LVMH’s Lalonde to Head Up North American Unit continued from page one were looking for the best candidate to continue growing a very strong business. We have had a great success story in the States over many years.” Lalonde succeeds Jean-Marc Gallot, who earlier this year left for Vuitton’s Paris headquarters to become European president. Gallot helmed Louis Vuitton North America for three years, but a management shuffl e was precipitated last March when Serge Brunschwig, Vuitton’s managing director, was appointed ceo of Celine, another LVMH-owned fashion and leather goods house. Schaus, who was promoted from Vuitton’s European president, succeeded Brunschwig, and Gallot succeeded Schaus. Philip Corne, Vuitton’s president in Australia and New Zealand, will continue as interim North American president until Lalonde moves over. Ulrich Wohn, Tag Heuer’s North America senior vice president of sales and trade marketing, will suc- ceed Lalonde. “I’m very excited with the appointment and look forward to beginning at Louis Vuitton in January after four and a half years at Tag Heuer,” said Lalonde, who declined to com- ment on obstacles he may face at his new post. “Luxury [brands] with a strong heritage that give attention to details still have a bright future. At Tag Heuer, we’re having out best year ever. The luxury goods industry will do well. I’m an optimist.” A Canadian national, Lalonde was considered a surprising hire in 2002 when he joined LVMH’s watch business from Nespresso, a high-end coffee brand owned by the Nestle conglomerate. An MBA graduate from France’s INSEAD business school, he has held positions at Häagen-Dazs and the consulting fi rm Deloitte & Touche. LVMH’s watch and jewelry business, while relatively small, has had dramatic improvements in recent years. Led by strong sales of Tag Heuer watches, operating profi ts in the division rocketed 164 percent in the fi rst half, to 37 million euros, or $45.5 million, as reported. North America overall is a key market for LVMH. In the Louis Vuitton’s new North American president, Daniel Lalonde. fi rst half, 26 percent of the group’s sales in watches and jewelry were generated in the U.S., which was second only to Europe in volume. America also accounted for 21 and the unveiling of a new Olafur Eliasson artwork and holiday windows at the Fifth percent of fashion and leather goods revenues in the six months ended June 30, com- Avenue fl agship in New York, he added. pared with 27 percent for Japan. LVMH has recently relied on its own executive ranks, particularly from the cash Lalonde told WWD the Tag business has had triple-digit growth annually since cow Vuitton brand, to aid smaller fi rms within the group aiming for “star brand” March 2002, due in part to an increase in self-purchasing. The company is now em- status. Earlier this month, Nathalie Bader-Michel, marketing director of Sephora phasizing watches in steel and gold combinations such as the new Aquaracer watch, Europe since 2003, was appointed president and ceo of the jewelry house Fred Paris which tennis champion Maria Sharapova dons in the fi rm’s new ad campaign that will SA, effective Dec. 1. hit magazines such as GQ, Elle, In Style and Vanity Fair in November. The campaign Last June, Bertrand Stalla-Bourdillon, general manager of fi nance and administra- also features brand ambassadors Uma Thurman, Tiger Woods and Jeff Gordon wear- tion at Vuitton, was named chairman and ceo of Marc Jacobs International to put a ing two-tone styles. promising business on a fast track. “You have to identify who your customer is. The mix of white gold and yellow gold Christian Dior Couture has produced its own management standouts. In 2003, in jewelry can easily match with [a steel and gold] watch,” Lalonde said in August. Michael Burke, Dior’s managing director, was named president and ceo of Fendi. “We’re trying to capture a larger share of the market,” He was succeeded by Claus-Dietrich Lahrs, then president of Louis Vuitton North In the fi rst half, overall LVMH sales in the U.S. leaped 11 percent in dollars, America. with watches and jewelry rising 21 percent; perfumes and cosmetics, 15 percent; Concetta Lanciaux, adviser to LVMH chairman Bernard Arnault and LVMH’s ex- selective retailing, 14 percent; fashion and leather goods, 8 percent, and wines and ecutive vice president of synergies, said internal recruitment does not represent any spirits, 6 percent. change in strategy, but refl ects the fact that “we’ve created a sizable talent pool and Vuitton, which operates more than 100 freestanding stores and leased corners have internal talent we can draw upon.” in North America, continues to roll out new product categories like sunglasses and She also noted LVMH has beefed up its internal career planning. “The great watches to more of its outlets, Schaus noted. This year, the company will celebrate thing about being with a group is, we are able to move people from one company its fi ve-year anniversary in the watch business, a feat among staid Swiss brands and to another,” she said. “Our people don’t need to go outside because there is oppor- competitors like Cartier, Patek Philippe and IWC. Among key events for the balance tunity inside.” of the year are the opening of an expanded Union Square location in San Francisco — With contributions from Sophia Chabbott

rency, the baht, had its biggest one-day decline in three years. “We’re disappointed in the coup,” White House press secretary Tony Snow said. Thailand Coup Has Little Retail Impact “We hope those who mounted it will make good, and make good swiftly, on their promises to restore democracy….Once you have democracy restored, we’ll also be By Evan Clark and Joyce Barrett in a position to move forward on a free trade agreement.” Thaksin, who was in New York on Tuesday to address the U.N. General Assembly he military coup in Thailand that deposed Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra when the military toppled his government, has been embroiled in a controversy Tcaused minimal immediate disruption of retailing and manufacturing for the since January when his family’s tax-free sale of a telecommunications company 12th-largest apparel and textile importer to the U.S. raised allegations of corruption. The situation is uncertain, however, and future orders and the prospects for a free A spokesman for the Thai Garment Manufacturers Association said the coup was trade agreement with the U.S. are in limbo. generally welcomed by business. Gen. Sondhi Boonyaratkalin, who took “It may actually be better for the econo- control of the country of 65 million people, my,” the spokesman said. “With Thaksin gone, said in Bangkok on Wednesday that democ- there will be no hidden agenda.” racy may not be restored for at least a year. A U.S.-Thailand trade pact would elimi- An interim government to write a new con- nate tariffs between the two countries, mak- stitution is to be named within two weeks, ing it more cost-effective to import from and elections are to held sometime around Thailand. October 2007. Sondhi pledged allegiance to “They need a politically stable environ- Thailand’s King Bhumibol Adulyadej, who ment for people to be comfortable sourc- has been on the throne for 60 years. ing there,” said Mark Jaeger, senior vice “They’re all waiting for the king to pro- president and general counsel at Jockey claim his vision of what should take place in International. “Long term for the apparel Thailand,” said Rick Darling, president of Li business, they need to have better ties with & Fung USA. “The population is extremely the U.S., including a free trade agreement.” loyal to the king.” Street and pedestrian traffi c in Bangkok Thailand is an important sourcing country was light on Wednesday. The Siam Paragon and hub for Li & Fung, which employs about 500 shopping center hired an additional 100 se- people in the Bangkok area and has had a pres- curity guards, a spokesman said. The center ence in the country for more than 30 years. opened as usual at 10 a.m. and mall manage- Thailand reported apparel and textile A man rides his bicycle past a tank after streets were closed to cars near the ment left it to individual tenants to decide if shipments to the U.S. of 1 billion square Government House in Bangkok on Wednesday. they would open. meter equivalents, valued at $2.2 billion, for “We made security tighter to make sure ev- the year ended July 31. Already facing tough competition from China, Thailand has erything is on the right track,” the spokesman said. a 2 percent share of the import market that could be threatened if the takeover The mall aquarium, Ocean World, was closed, though the department store and turns violent. food court were open. “We don’t see any real disruptions,” Darling said. “Certainly, no disruptions in The upscale Gaysorn Shopping Center was closed, and management could not the short term and, frankly, we don’t think there will be any real disruption in the be reached for comment. long term.” The U.S. embassy urged Americans in Thailand to “avoid any large gatherings The leaders of the coup declared a national holiday on Wednesday, but many and exercise discretion when moving about the city.” The embassy said it’s not ad- businesses stayed open as banks, government offi ces, the stock market and schools vising U.S. citizens to leave, but said Americans planning to travel there “may wish shut down. Tanks and soldiers were stationed at some key locations. Thailand’s cur- to carefully consider their options…until the situation becomes clearer. PHOTO BY REUTERS/ADREES LATIF/LANDOV PHOTO BY 30 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2006 WWD.COM A Scoop’s Worth of Dylan’s Candy MEMO PAD NEW YORK — As of today, Scoop Street shop- LEFT OUT DETAILS: According to Details, promotions and bestsellers pers can get a sugar fix at the Meatpacking do not a power player make. The men’s monthly releases its District store’s new Dylan’s Candy Bar outpost. Power List of men under the age of 42 in the October issue, on Respective founders Stefani Greenfi eld of newsstands Sept. 26, and missing from the roster this year is Scoop and Dylan Lauren of Dylan’s Candy Bar, Newsweek’s Jon Meacham, who earlier this month was bumped expect the treats to be a real draw with women up to editor from managing editor and whose book, “American who don’t want to sit at nearby cafes for a pick- Gospel,” was a bestseller this year. Meacham had ranked as high me-up. Scoop Street has strategically placed the as 19th on the Details list, but this year he appears to have been candy near the store’s windows, with the hopes passed over for the likes of bloggers such as Perez Hilton (née Mario of catching the eyes of passersby. “She’s our own Lavandeira) and Trent Vanegas from Pink Is the New Blog. Why the little Willy Wonka,” said Greenfi eld with a laugh. dis from Details? “It’s all oxymoronic — buy a pair of skinny “We went to press before his promotion; otherwise, he certainly jeans and a bag of malted milk balls.” she added. would have been on the list,” explained Details editor in chief Jokes aside, Lauren and Greenfi eld, who are Dan Peres. But as Peres explained, Meacham and others jump on friends, insist they share a similar design aesthet- and off the list in relation to their impact on culture at the time. ic and both cater to stylish women in their 20s, “People fall off occasionally, not because they have lost any of 30s and 40s. Both are hopeful their collaboration their power or responsibility — in some cases, people fall off de- will encourage a little self-indulgence, whether it spite the fact they’re earning twice as much or are twice as visible. be for a few sweets or a designer label. “Candy is It is about the impact these people have about the way people sort of an impulse buy,” Lauren said. think and go through our lives.” For example, said Peres, bloggers A longtime Scoop customer, Lauren said she have been forcing major news organizations to rethink their news- admired Greenfi eld’s color-coordinated and well- gathering strategy. edited stores well before her fi rst candy store But Hilton, ranked number fi ve on this year’s list, shouldn’t opened. Like Scoop, Dylan’s Candy Bar tends to challenge Meacham to an arm-wrestling match just yet. “Just be- be a destination. “Hopefully, this will help lure A rendering of Dylan’s Candy Bar at Scoop Street. cause Perez Hilton is on this list and relatively high up does not them up to the real fl agship,” she said, referring mean in any way he wields more power than Jon Meacham,” said to the 1011 Third Avenue location where a third in the works, as well as more items for W Hotels. Peres. “But you think about it, and it’s unfortunate, more people fl oor is being added to make it 15,000 square Lauren also is in talks with other hip hotels and want to know about Paris Hilton’s DWI than they do Iran’s nuclear feet. Lauren is scouting store locations in Los private jet companies to jazz up their interiors development.” Angeles, Las Vegas and SoHo here. A private with Dylan’s Candy Bar treats. And Meacham’s response to his omission? “Power, like affection, label candy-inspired collection of spa products is — Rosemary Feitelberg is a fl eeting thing.” — Stephanie D. Smith

BLOG IT OUT: Speaking of blogs, although quips about celebrity faux pas during New York Fashion Week make great fodder for gossip columns, Robin Givhan, The Washington Post’s Pulitzer India’s Lakmé Teams With Sabyasachi Prize-winning fashion critic, doesn’t have room for such tidbits in articles for the paper. But her blog, which she began during ven before the lights went out in the Bryant the fall shows in February and continued through last week’s EPark tents in New York, Lakmé Lever, India’s spring shows, provided a home for such details. Givhan chronicled largest cosmetics brand, had rolled out its latest action in the front row, at parties and behind the runway in a fashion tie-in. conversational blog at washingtonpost.com. For example, she Lakmé, a division of Hindustan Lever Ltd., based described how Vogue editor in chief Anna Wintour seemed taken in Mumbai, sponsored the ready-to-wear show with tennis ace Roger Federer at the Marc Jacobs show. “She of Sabyasachi Mukherjee, a 30-year-old up-and- seemed to be rather in awe of him. Did we see her fl ick her hair coming designer from Calcutta, during Olympus with a girlish toss?” she wrote. Fashion Week. As in seasons past, the cosmetics In print, such musings “usually ended up on the cutting-room company produced a limited-edition color collec- fl oor,” said Givhan. “The blog is much more about the scene and tion called Sabyasachi for Lakmé. the celebrities and cocktail parties, which ordinarily did not make The collection includes 11 shades of lipstick, a it into my stories unless it was in passing or directly related to the rainbow of nail polishes, four shades of eye shadow theme of the story.” and three colors of blush. A lipstick in India costs Perhaps she got away with certain opinions — such as “Carmen the equivalent of $4, which is about $19 in U.S. pur- Electra has been all over the shows, and we still are at a loss to chasing power, according to Anil Chopra, Lakmé A Sabyasachi for Lakmé ad visual. fi gure exactly why she’s so famous that she requires three security Lever vice president, who traveled to New York for guards to escort her out of the building. Anyone? Anyone?” the show. younger, more modern image, Lakmé became the — because WP’s online editors read her postings, not her regular The limited-edition collection is designed to last title sponsor of the fashion week held in New Delhi section editors, before they appeared online. Givhan also edited on the market for roughly six by the Fashion Design Council herself by penning her entries after the shows and parties at months, after which it will be of India. That was seven years night, and submitting the entries in the morning to avoid posting replaced by the next collection ago. After a change in man- something she would later regret. by another chosen designer. agement a year ago, Lakmé Givhan, who will continue her blog during the Paris and Milan Production quantities are an BEAUTY BEAT decided to team up with IMG shows, may be joined by other newspaper critics blogging about estimated one million units per and create a new joint venture fashion — The New York Times’ Cathy Horyn and the International product. The line will be advertised in newspapers, fashion week that was held in Mumbai from March Herald Tribune’s Suzy Menkes are said to be getting pressure from on outdoor billboards and in the Indian October 28 to April 1. Lakmé also facilitates designer shows higher-ups to do their own blogs. — S.D.S. editions of Elle, Cosmopolitan and Femina. in other cities where IMG owns events — like Los This limited-edition collection is part of a much Angeles, Melbourne and Singapore. ON TO RETAIL: Us Weekly’s beauty director, Melissa Green, is deeper effort, Chopra explained. Even though In addition to refurbishing its image, Lakmé has jumping ship, but it’s not for main rival People. She’ll be the fi rst Lakmé has been a leader on the Indian market for been trying to convince the conservative, tradition- beauty buyer for Anthropologie. A spokeswoman for the magazine 50 years and still commands a 52 percent market al element of the Indian market that it is socially said the retailer was responding in part to a recent study that share in color, the company has been faced with acceptable to wear makeup during the day, rather showed more women in their 20s are looking to the magazine for an onslaught of fashionable, trendy European and than just reserve it for formal occasions in the eve- beauty tips — “so much so that retail ads are up 165 percent this American brands pouring into India. ning. Last season’s collection was called Happy year,” she said. Us editor in chief Janice Min has yet to name a “We became thought of as your mother’s brand,” Hour, and this edition is Freespirit. replacement. — Irin Carmon Chopra said ruefully. In an effort to project a — Pete Born

up to expand its product offerings.” just brands, but businesses, as well — that Wellington Capital anticipates invest- are hurting and that we feel like we could Harvé Benard Sold for $12 Million ing $5 million, and its plans include hir- turn around,” Gabbay said. It recently pur- ing a celebrity face to represent the brand chased Wormser Co. out of bankruptcy. The By Whitney Beckett Within two years, Gabbay thinks the and adding a “purple label” that will sell brand, which specializes in putting charac- Harvé Benard better brand can increase for triple the price of the current Harvé ters on children’s pajamas, has increased ellington Capital Group has bought its wholesale volume from $100 million to Benard product to higher-scale retailers volume slightly to more than $30 million in WHarvé Benard Ltd. for $12 million. $500 million. “I believe the brand has major like Saks Fifth Avenue and Nordstrom. wholesale and signed new licenses under After six weeks of negotiations, the credibility in the marketplace,” said Gabbay. The current line wholesales at $25 to $45 Wellington Capital’s ownership, according New York-based equity group secured “There isn’t a problem with the brand at all, for sportswear and $100 to $200 for outer- to Gabbay. rights to the Harvé Benard brand. The im- except the company that owned it ran an wear, and sells to department stores and Wellington Capital’s goal is to acquire pending deal was fi rst reported by WWD exorbitant amount of overhead.” midtier chains. more companies in the next seven months. on Aug. 29. Harvé Benard executives could not Unlike many fi nancial fi rms dabbling The fi rm is targeting apparel groups with But the purchase excludes Benard’s re- be reached for comment on Wednesday. in apparel, Gabbay said his interest in more than $20 million in volume that own cent acquisition, New Frontier, which Joseph Harvé Benard was founded in 1967 by the industry is long term, and he does not promising brands perceived to be per- Gabbay, chief executive offi cer of Wellington brothers Bernard and Morton Holtzman. plan to fl ip Harvé Benard when business forming at less than their potential. Capital Group, called “not attractive at all.” “We see tremendous potential for this improves. “This is something for the kids,” Tracy Evans Ltd. will be the main Garfi eldMarks was never part of Harvé brand,” said Lynn Siemers, the newly Gabbay said. licensee for most of the categories in Benard, but was owned by several mem- appointed president of Harvé Benard. Gabbay and Gabriel Shehebar started Harvé Benard sportswear. For the most bers of Benard’s management, and thus “Harvé Benard is a well-known name with Wellington Capital about nine months ago part, Wellington Capital plans to license was not part of the sale. quality associated with it. We are geared “to purchase existing businesses — not Harvé Benard’s manufacturing. WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2006 31 NATIONAL MARKETPLACE

JUNIOR SWEATER PATTERN & ACTIVE WEAR CO. Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. has the following open positions: No Lot Too Big or Too Small. MAKER Call CLOTHES-OUT: CONTEMPORARY SPORTSWEAR (937) 898-2975 FOR FASHION TECHNICAL DESIGNER New unconventional contemporary sportswear label seeks NY and LA rep- DESIGNER Seeking highly exp tech designer to resentation. Must have showroom and work in fast pace prod dept, knowl- contacts with specialty stores. Email HOUSE edge of garment constructional, flat resume to [email protected] sketching, grading & conducting fit MUST HAVE STRONG High-End Contemporary EXPERIENCE sessions. Must have excellent WOMEN’S DESIGNER overseas factory communication Famous Knitwear Brand CLOTHING skills in written, only candidates Seeking Regional Sales Reps/Agencies. who are able to multi task in afast Call / Fax resumes to Human Resources: 212 9579797 X 127 pace environment need apply. Tel: 212-921-2181 / Fax: 212-921-2184 CHRIS KLINE SALES ASSISTANT Looking for energetic sales asst. for busy N.Y showroom, Junior PRODUCTION sweaters, Active Wear & tops. Exp Denim Designer PATTERNMAKER preferred, come join a great team. Top denim co. seeks denim Better Dresses-NYC Please send resumes to: designer for contemporary Must have 5 yrs+ dress exp. in draping line. Must be creative and thru production. Lectra knowl. & computer [email protected] patternmaking skills are a plus but not DESIGNER Showrooms & Lofts have young hip sense of CUSTOMER SERVICE REP mandatory. Must understand garment Successful NY/Palm Beach designer, BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS color and style. Min. 5 years To work in fast paced NY Showroom construction. Good communication will create any line. Bonni Great ’New’ Office Space Avail skills req’d. Fax resume to 201-964-5892 212-886-4536 or cell 917-293-5033. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 exp in fashion denim design /Offices. Must be highly organized; required. Great opportunity detail oriented & able to multi-task. Showroom sublet - 36th & 5th 2500 Ft Showroom - Fully Built for right individual. Strong phone, communication, Retail Planner Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 E-mail resume to: administrative & computer skills NYC based mini-chain retail boutique Search- www.manhattanoffices.com required. Fax: (212) 582-6388 or seeks an experienced Retail Planner [email protected] who will be responsible for establish- or fax Patty 212-354-4418 [email protected] ing and achieving company sales, turn & profit goals through proper inventory management while working in part- Fabric Research & nership with buying team. 3+ yrs of ACCOUNT MANAGER Development exp in Merchandise Planning, emphasis Est’b Missy and Junior apparel on Women’s & Men’s Contemporary manufacturer to open additional Assistant categories a plus. E-mail resume to: accounts. Must have strong secured Ideal candidate must be a very [email protected] relationships. Must have done business detailed oriented individual with with such relationships within the last Buyer/Assistant Buyer excellent follow up. Must have good month. Relationships must have a Berlin, MD. South Moon Under is cur- fabric knowledge and experience to min. of $3-5M in sales per year. Please rently looking for an outgoing indiv. to communicate with fabric mills over- SAMPLEMAKER email resume to: [email protected] SHANGHAI EXP’D MFR join our buying department. College seas daily. Self motivated person with Hi-end eveningwear co. seeks head Better/designer eveningwear supplier. degree required plus two years fashion strong computer skills to include Excel, samplemaker/samplemakers. Min 10yrs Quality work, Quick turnaround buying exp. We offer a competitive Outlook, and Data Base Systems. exp. Email: [email protected] Lou Nardi Designs Call (212) 461-4852 www.alamoda.com compensation and benefits package. Please fax resume with salary Please forward resume to requirements, Attn - Rasha to : Sales Associate [email protected] (212) 685-4341 Specialty store sales, customer service, See full job posting at trunk shows / travel. Computer skills. www.southmoonunder.com Sample Room Cutter Commission. Fax 212-921-9103 attn: Joel. Busy designer dress company. Fabric Sourcing Able to handle delicate fabrics. BUYER Exp’d Only! Fax info to: (212) 463-8224 Ready For New Oppty! Juniors, Plus Sizes - tops & separates Department Assistant Successful NY apparel co seeks exp’d PATTERN/SAMPLES buyer. Must have 5 years experience in Experienced person must have fabric sales pro for its new menswear div. moderate &/or Branded Urban Market. knowledge to communicate daily with Must have relationships w/ dept. stores Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast $100K + medical benefits. offices and factories off shore. Must be Technical Designer work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 & private label. 3+ year’s exp. email Send resume in confidence to: self motivated and detail oriented with For high end childrenswear company resume to: [email protected] [email protected] excellent follow up. Strong computer • education in apparel studies preferred skills to include Excel and Outlook. ie, fashion design, patternmaking PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Please fax resume with salary • 5+ years experience in the apparel PRODUCTIONS requirements, Attn - Jackie W. industry in kids (wovens and knits) to : (212) 685-4341 • proficiency in Excel, Illustrator, All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. CAD ARTIST Outlook Call Sherry 212-719-0622. If you love to work with beautiful artwork • measure, fit and analyze appropriate and are skilled with PrimaVision you fit corrections will be a good fit in our company. We PATTERNMAKER • knowledge of garment construction Sales – All Levels PATTERNS, SAMPLES, offer a competitive salary and excellent (FREELANCE / FULL-TIME) and patternmaking Bridal / Eveningwear a must. Soundgirl, a Young - Contemporary/ PRODUCTIONS company benefits. Send your resume to: • looking for freelance to permanent Junior Sportswear Collection is search- [email protected]. Benefits / 401K. Long Island Location. Full service shop to the trade. Phone: 631-661-0492 Fax: 631-321-1355 Call 646-465-5014 or ing for sales staff from managerial to Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Fax resume to 212-367-3726 assistant level. Exp with boutique, Controller / Accountant better dept or specialty chain. Excellent Growing men’s sportswear co seeks an salary & benefits. Email resume: Accounting Mgr to handle all account- PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD Production [email protected] High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- ing resp, include; A/R, A/P, cb’s, bank Technical Designer www.soundgirl.com sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 statements, factor and dispute resolu- Assistant Production tion. Real World a plus. Excel a must. Leading ladies denim jean and sports- Pls email resume with salary req: Coordinator wear importer seeks highly exp tech [email protected] Join a small, very busy ladies sports- designer to work in fast paced produc- Sales Assistant wear group. Must be detail oriented tion dept. Knowledge of garment Vertical women’s apparel company and super organized. Intensive follow construction, patternmaking, flat sketching, seeks highly motivated / detail oriented up required. grading and conducting fit sessions. individual as sales assistant. Excellent Designer Associate • Time & action schedules Must have excellent overseas factory communication & computer skills a • Track both sampling and production communication skills and ability to must. Responsibilities include show- Growing import co seeks creative process tech paks. Wal-Mart exp a plus. room sales, account support, monitor- individual to join our design team. • Generate cuttings Women’s Clothing Store • Costing and cost analysis Friendly environment & company benefits. ing projects from concept to delivery Must be proficient in Illustrator and Pls e-mail res: [email protected] and providing customer service. Southern Marin County, CA Photoshop. Denim exp a plus. Great • Import communication • Some data entry E-mail resumes to: Long established women’s clothing oppty for the right person. Email [email protected] store for sale. Much growth potential. resume: [email protected] • Generate sales reports Principals only. Call Tom 415.383.5800. Knowledge of garments helpful. Basic common sense a must. 2 years experi- Technical Designer DESIGNER/GRAPHIC DESIGNER ence preferred. Salary plus benefits. SALES ASSOCIATE In all aspects of line development. ROBBIE BEE Strong skills in sketching, illustration, Send resume and sales pitch to: MENSWEAR [email protected] FYC Apparel Group specs & cads. Must be computer Leading dress co seeks Tech Designer Premium men’s jeans co. seeking literate, detail oriented and multi- for expanding production team. Must experienced sales person ,contacts tasker w/ cut & sewn exp. Please Production Assistant have exp in detailed flat sketching, with chain stores. excellent salary. email resume to: [email protected] Trim Development garment construction, spec develop- Fax: 212-944-8813 DESIGNERS - TECHNICAL, BRIDGE For Tahari by Arthur Levine ment, and fit analysis. Responsibilities & SWIMWEAR . PRODUCT MGR. Are you a sales or purchasing assistant include directing fit sessions and com- HANDBAGS/PLANNERS in the button industry? Exciting oppty municating fit comments to factories. Sales Executive [email protected] to join a fast-paced suiting company Need to be energetic, detail oriented & Leading young men’s company opening FASHION ASSURANCE - 201.845.6050 experiencing rapid growth! We offer computer proficient. Dress exp a must, Junior/Young contemporary division. a competitive salary and excellent production patternmaking skills a plus. Looking for 2 highly motivated sales ADMIN/SALES ASSISTANT benefits! Please email resume to: Overseas exp necessary. Excellent persons with at least 3 yrs experience. Est. Midtown Pvt Label Co. w/fcty in DRAPER [email protected] benefits. Competitive salary. Email 1)Sportwear/related separates China seeks exp’d, highly motivated, Designer Eveningwear. 10+ years exp. resumes: [email protected] 2)Denim detail oriented Admin/ Sales Assistant. Fast-paced, good salary/benefits. Great Opportunity/ Excellent Salary Res. incl: oversee front desk, answer Please fax info to (212) 463-8224 Please email or fax resume to: phones, process pkgs, maintain showroom. Production & Asst. Mgr. Fax (212)871-6350 Assist Director of Sales w/daily emails. Garment mfr. seeks Production Mgr. email: [email protected] Maintain files, charts & schedules.Knowl. & Asst. Mgr. Must be self-motivated, Technical Designers of MS Excel, Word & Outlook req. Min educated, at least 6 years in USA or YOUNIQUE CLOTHING 3 yrs exp. fluent English must. Friendly ECI New York equivalent. Send resume & expected salary to: Junior Sportswear company is seek- SALES team environ. Email resume to: A better manufacturer of Women’s [email protected] [email protected] ing a strong professional to develop Looking for energetic Sales person for Branded & Private Label Sportswear Production Coordinator tech packs and follow up. 3-5 years busy NY showroom. Ladies dress and and Dresses currently has career experience preferred. Excellent separates all size ranges. Experience opportunities available in the follow- Leading ladies denim & sportswear importer seeks exp’d, detail oriented, communication skills in written and preferred. Join a great team. Pls send Asst Designer Childrenswear ing categories: resume to: [email protected]. 2 Yrs experience. required. Must have org’d person to join our fast paced tech sketches. Understanding of Private Label Coordinator garment construction fit and the jrs. strong computer skills on a Mac using Dress Designer team. Must have outstanding ability Illustrator and Photoshop. Fax resume to: to communicate w/ overseas factories, market. STRONG computer skills Sportswear Designer are essential. Only candidates able to 212-868-9278 Attn: EFK Technical Designer understanding of garment construc- SALESPERSON (S) tion, accustomed to working w/ denim multi-task in a FAST paced environ- Dom/Imp sweater/knits private label ECI is a great home for individuals fabrics, oversee approvals, expedite ment need apply. manufacturer w/ current vendor num- Bookkeeper -Full Charge that love Fashion and have a strong orders & tech paks, monitor time & ac- Please email resumes to: bers at all Majors, seeks experienced Midtown apparel firm. Full knowledge desire to succeed. The above positions tion report & maintain on time deliver- [email protected] - salesperson(s) for Ladies, Juniors, and of Quickbooks and Excel. Salary require minimum 3 years experience ies. Chinese speaking a plus. Friendly for tops and dresses Girls. E-mail resume to: commensurate with experience. and must have good trade references. environment & benefits. Pls e-mail [email protected] - [email protected] Fax 212-944-1814. Attention Alan. Email: [email protected] resume: [email protected] for bottoms and jackets Confidentiality maintained. 3:12 p.m. Exit 24 NICOLE REALIZES SHE DOESN’T HAVE AS MUCH CONTROL AS HER ALL-WHEEL DRIVE.*

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