HoRoLOGICAL TM TIMES September 2004
American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute Domed Waterproof Crown Kit Assortment contains the most common size crowns in tap 10. A total of 24 crowns.
• Ten different numbers • Crown diameter from 3.0-5.0 • Tube opening- 1.6 and 2.0 • Flush, Medium, and Long Posts
Screw Down Waterproof Pusher Crowns Crown Crown for Pocket Watches Assortment Assortment Flush, Medium & Long Posts!
#83.022 WATERPROOF CROWN . ASSORTMENT ES3iingef &. co I '* • *-EsSlinger & Co Pusher-Type Crown Assortment An easy way to replace those hard to• find threaded #83.038 crowns. Each crown includes 8 Pes. AIITap - 10 a friction case tube. Includes 36 Assorted o-ring crowns with a eight crowns: 1 each 4.0mm, tube opening of 2.00 mm. Sizes 4.5mm, 5.3mm and 6.0mm from 3.5 mm to 5.0 mm; tap 10. Includes antique, square, and modern in yellow and white. Includes two yellow and one styles. All are yellow, tap 10. 8-pieces Refills Available white crown in 12 sizes. total. Refills available.
Stem Extender KT-22 Microlubricant and Crown Post Grease & Moisture Sealer Assortment
8 !)-h·-· #42.0300 ...... Small Jar ...... 3.95 (Reg. #42.0325 ...... Syringe ...... $17.95) 5.95 A stem and winding gear lubricant that assures full lubrication as well as rust protection that lasts from cleaning to cleaning. Never breaks down, creeps, or This new, 24-piece assortment include male and bleeds. Vapor seals the sleeve completely and water female type crown posts in different taps. Also has proofs screw-back cases. Protects against condensation 2-piece stem adapters to convert a regular to a split and seals plungers. A must for chronographic lubrication. stem. Also contains extenders in taps 8 and 10, in a KT-22 is available in both jar and syringe. The reusable ten bottle plastic box. syringe permits accurate placement of the microlubricant with optimum purity upon application. VOLUME 28 NUMBER 9 HoROLOGICAL>M CONTENTS SEPTEMBER 2004 TIMES An Official Publication of the American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute FEATURE ARTICLES EDITORIAL & EXECUTIVE OFFICES TAG Heuer Races Toward New Milestone in Watchmaking Technology 8 AWCI , 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030 Rolex Urges Industry Partnership With AWCI Phone: Toll Free 1-866-367-2924 or (513) 367-9800 12 Fax: (513) 367-1 414 The Word is Out-Time to Get Involved!, By Jerry Faier 15 E-mail: [email protected] Web Site: www.awi-net.org Office Hours: Monday-Friday 8:00AM to 5:00 PM (EST) What Is It?, By David J. LaBounty 16 Closed National Holidays A Morbier Clock, By David J. Carlson 18 Donna K. Baas: Managing Editor, Advertising Manager Katherine J. Ortt: Associate Editor, Layout/Design Associate New Bushing System, By Laurie Penman, Part 2 28 James E. Lubic, CMW: Executive Director & AWCI Spare Parts Survey Update 34 Education & Technical Director Lucy Fuleki: Assistant Executive Director Thomas J. Pack, CPA: Finance Director COLUMNS Laurie Penman: Clock Instructor Nancy L. Wei/mann: Education Coordinator Rock Quarry, By Fred S. Burckhardt 24 Sharon McManus: Membership Coordinator Mary Huff: Shipping Coordinator Heather Kyde: Receptionist/Secretary DEPARTMENTS HOROLOGICAL TIMES ADVISORY COMMITTEE President's Message, By Jim Door 2 James Sadilek: Chairman Lloyd Lehn, CC Executive Director's Message, By James E. Lubic 2 Chip Um, CMW, CMC, CMEW Robert D. Porter, CMW Questions & Answers, By David A. Christianson 4 Manuel Yazijian Ask Huck, By J. M. Huckabee 6 AWCI OFFICERS AWCI New Members Jim Door: President 11 Dennis Warner: Vice President From the Workshop, By Jack Kurdzionak 26 Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CMEW, FAWI : Secretary Mark Butterworth: Treasurer Affiliate Chapter Report, By Glenn D. Gardner 36 AWCI DIRECTORS Bulletin Board 38 Mark Baker, CMW Gerald Jaeger, CMW, CMC, CMEW, FAWI Industry News 40 James Sadilek AWCI Material Search Manuel Jean Yazijian 43 James K. Zimmerman, CMW, CMC, CMEW Classified Advertising 44 Glenn D. Gardner, CMW: Affiliate Chapter Director Doug Thompson, CW, CEWT: Research &Education Advertisers' Index 48 Council Director Willem Van Kempen : Industry Advisory Board Director AWCI Employee Directory 48
IMMEDIATE PAST PRESIDENT Jack Kurdzionak, CW EDUCATION FELLOW AWCI Continuing Education for Clockmakers 32 American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute Robert F. Bishop AWCI Bench Courses 33 James H. Broughton ·Harold J. Herman Fred S. Burckhardt J.M. Huckabee AWCI Home Study Course in Clock Repair 34 Alice B. Carpenter Gerald G. Jaeger David A. Christianson Benjamin Matz George Daniels Robert A. Nelson SPECIAL INTEREST Wes Door ·Hamilton E. Pease New York State Watchmakers & Clockmakers Association Convention 23 ·Henry B. Fried Archie B. Perkins Josephine F. Hagans William 0. Smith, Jr. Horological Association of Maryland Fall Seminar 25 ·Orville R. Hagans Milton C. Stevens Ewell D. Hartman ·Marvin E. Whitney AWCI Directors' E-mail Address Directory 38 'Deceased
Reprinting and reproduction Is prohibited without written pennisslon from the Ameri can Watchmakers·Ciockmakers Institute. Copyright 4:12004 by the American Watc/unakers-Ciockmakl!rs lnstiMe.
COVER This month's cover features the TAG Heuer Monaco V4 Concept Watch. President's Message Jim Door I am writing this after just having returned from our annual meeting and convention. For those of you who attended-thank you. Every year I leave feeling that I am now better equipped to handle the chal lenges in my business. I always learn something new, not only in the seminars, but also in the private conver sations with other members. My only regret is that I wasn't able to meet and converse with each attendee personally. A big round of thanks goes to Terry Kurdzionak and Lucy Fuleki who did the lion's share of planning and running the convention. We face many challenges, or shall we say opportunities in the years to come. We are coming into our own as leaders, not followers, in setting the standards of excellence in the repair side of our industry. This is evidenced by the fact that Rolex, Swatch, Richemont, and Citizen all had representatives at the convention. The Education Committee, under the leadership of Jerry Faier and with the hard work of Vince Schrader along with others, is close to rolling out the new CW test. In the near future, having a current AWCI certification will have great meaning and help our members to better make a living. Clock repairpersons do not despair. We have not been forgotten, the process is already beginning on the clock side of certification. Certification only tests current skills and knowledge. How do we get to that level and afterward how do we continue to improve? To go along with the testing we are developing new educational programs to allow all of our members to have the opportunity to reach these levels. All of this can only be achieved when people are willing to work together and there is good leadership. I thank Jack Kurdzionak for providing that leadership in the past two years as AWCI President. He has set a high standard for which I will strive as your new president.
Executive Director's Message James E. Lubic, CMW
The Maine Event was a huge success! Over 170 registrations were booked for the complete meet ing. The ELM Charitable Trust Fund Raising Dinner was sold out with 100 reservations. The Educational Programs and Trade Fair on Saturday were a big hit. I think everyone who attended learned a lot and had a good time. I would like to thank the office staff, the Board of Directors, all the committees, the Affiliate Chapters, trade fair participants, donors of door prizes, the members who came to the convention, and, of course, the sponsors. Without all of your hard work and participation, The Maine Event would not have been a success. Once again thank you! There were many important issues that were addressed at this year's meeting. The complete meeting's events will be reported on in next month's issue of the HT. Because of deadlines and space requirements we are not able to publish the convention/meeting material in this issue. However, this month's issue does report on one highlight. We thought it was very important to get this information to our members as soon as possible. That is the article titled, "Rolex Urges Industry Partnership with AWCI." We had planned for Mr. Charles Berthiaume of Rolex USA to deliver this speech at the end of the Trust Dinner after Mr. Collard's presentation on Waltham watches while we were still on House Island. I had thought that this would be the ideal spot for Mr. Berthiaume to speak. But when we got to the island there was no microphone or podium. I still thought the idea was a good one, but it was going to be a little awkward. We decided to go ahead as planned anyway, which we did. Just as I finished introducing Mr. Berthiaume we were told that we had no more time on the island and that we had to leave. The boat to take us back to Portland was at the dock blowing its hom. So there we were. Mr. Berthiaume had been introduced, but wasn't able to speak. I couldn't believe what was taking place. We discussed what to do during our walk to the boat and subsequent boat ride. Just before the boat docked in Portland I asked if I could use the microphone on the boat to make an announcement. The captain agreed. I then asked the group to gather in the registration area of the hotel and we would decide at that time where we could gather for Mr. Berthiaume's speech. About 45 minutes later, we gathered in the hospitality room that had been set up for AWCI members. The hospitality room was a very unique setting for Mr. Berthiaume's speech, but I must say that things happen for a reason, and it turned out to be the perfect spot. Immediately after Mr. Berthiaume finished speaking I asked if we could publish what he had said in the HT. He seemed surprised that we would want to publish his words, but I bet at least 50 other members came to me later that night and the next day with the same request. So please be sure to read the article titled "Rolex Urges Industry Partnership with AWCI" on page 12. This article will hopefully give you insight as to where our future lies.
2 Horological Times • September 2004 ... Can't beUeve you fiave tfiatJ
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We hear that a {ot, so ...... Ca[[ today and fet us _prove to you tfiat we have tfiat and carry tfioseJ
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Phone:419-243-3720 800-472-0200 The 800-537-0343 Wm. S.• McCaw Company Fax: 419-243-0321 Since 1913 800-245-6481 1722 Madison Avenue [email protected] Toledo, Ohio 43624 Questions & Answers
Question Sometimes called a double chrono secondary hand jumps forward or Please help me to identify the graph, the split-second chronograph backward, whichever is the shorter dis rarity, quality, and manufacture date of has an additional chronograph seconds tance, and resumes its place immedi the timepiece in the two photos hand that enables the operator to mea ately below the regular chronograph enclosed. sure two successive intervals of time, hand whether it be stationary or such as measuring the times of the first runmng. No name on dial and second finishers in a race; or any From the style of the case and Inside front cover ·c::=:> inside oval short event that has two concurrent in movement your watch was probably guaranteed 18K 2422 tervals of time of unequal duration. You made around 1880 - 1890 and prob Also inside front cover ~ can find the split seconds mechanism ably was finished in Geneva, from the AL&CO. on both full chronographs like yours style of the hairspring stud holder. The Hunting case - double back with bezel and crystal covering watch and on stop watches. movement would have been sent to one Only #s on watch movement 2422 The extra seconds hand is be of a number of fine chronograph mak Fred J. Buyck low the first and is usually a different ers somewhere in the Valley de Joux Columbia, SC finish to provide contrast. When the to have the split -seconds chronograph chronograph is started the two hands mechanism made and added to the travel together as one hand. They can movement. This was and still is a very Answer be stopped, returned to zero and re highly skilled and meticulous fabrica started together just as with an ordi Your watch is a fine example tion, all done by hand in that lovely of a Swiss-made split second chrono nary chronograph. There is, however, valley on the western border of Swit graph. A chronograph, as you know, an additional push button on the side zerland where the art of watchmaking shows both the time of day and inde of the case which when pressed stops still lives today. pendent lapsed time; as opposed to a the secondary hand while the other David Christianson, stop watch or timer which only shows continues to travel until it is stopped Technical Editor, lapsed time. by pushing on the crown. When the CMW, CMEW, FAWI side push button is pushed again, the In the scheme of things, fine 0 quality chronographs are rare; split second chronographs are even rarer.
4 Horological Times • September 2004 Get all wound up; wlth these Del,u:xe W'inders for Automatics
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Disaster to the American Major Repairs to the Kitchen Clock American Clock
Question Question An American "Kitchen Clock" spilled Where can I get instructional material its mainspring, bent the 2 nd wheel arbor, and for restoration of our older American clocks? pulled the movement free from its mounting. I'm interested in material that is beyond simple The click rivet is missing. Is it possible tore maintenance. What is currently available? store this family keepsake? Answer Answer More than a half-century ago, I posed Your clock is a living piece of our the same question to my friend Mr. J. E. American history. It is my recommendation Coleman. He suggested The Modem Clock, by and desire that you, or another clockmaker, Ward Goodrich. He further suggested that I restore this piece of our national history. read his material in a publication by Mr. 0. R. Your description rings with a bit of Hagans-namely, American Horologist and doubt that the job can be restored. I do not Jeweler. detect a trace of a problem that cannot be re Today, I recommend two books: The turned to excellent functional order. Modem Clock and The Best of J. E. Coleman. In my shop, everything you men I further suggest the several tutorials tioned can be returned to good order. Let's and tapes from AWCI. Another well-illustrated discuss the process. and easy reading book is The Top 300 Trade Secrets of a Master Clockmaker from AWCI. The Click Rivet Another suggestion is that you care A lathe-turned rivet can be easily fully follow my illustrated articles in Horologi made. If the old wheel hole is torn, move the cal Times. That material frequently centers on click to another wheel spoke. major service techniques related to the Ameri can clock. The combination of the foregoing Bent Arbor and Pivot material pretty well covers theory and practi cal practices to American clocks, most of which These can be straightened. If these can be applicable to many other clocks in use should break, new pieces can be lathe-turned. today. 0 Possible Bent Plates and Tom Pivot Holes Plates are easily straightened and pivot holes bushed. Every problem is easily restored. Most major problems can be corrected by the simple process of dividing the big picture into small simple pieces and do the job a piece at a time.
6 Horological Times • September 2004 The American Watch Guild announces the creation of the
International Watch Collectors Society The Society will provide its members with the following
• Calendar of major watch sales & auctions. Antiquorum, Christie's, Phillips & Sotheby's The previews of upcoming auctions. Reports: photographs, prices and auction results. • Announcements from significant watch firms of new releases and limited editions. • Information about emerging new master watchmakers and their creations • Establishment of regional chapters where the collectors can meet and have guest speakers from noteworthy watchmaking factories. • Question and Answer service by Stewart Unger, noted watch authority & author. • Annual meeting at the Concours d'Elegance at the summer Jewelers of America Show held at the Javits Center in New York. • A book club. • Plus Free Booklets: How to Buy a Watch (and its Functions) The Care and Service of Timepieces Where to Find the World's Finest Watches How to Detect a Counterfeit Watch
Membership 1 year~ $65 2 years~ $120 6 Issues of Collectors Comer per year Invitation to the Concours d'Elegance Master Collector 1 year~ $120 2 years~ $220 the above plus: 10% discount from the Book Club Rebate coupons from Manufacturers
Membership Application Name ______Phone ______Address ______City ______State. ___Zip: ____
Make check payable to: International Watch Collectors Society, LLC 244 Madison Ave., #258 New York, NY 10016 • Fax: 516~374~5060 TAG Heuer Races Toward a New Milestone in Watchmaking Technology The Monaco V4 Concept Watch Models the Car Engine in a New Machine to Keep Time
TAG Heuer, the benchmark in prestigious sports watches and chronographs since 1860, is the fourth-largest luxury brand in the world watch market. This Swiss watchmaking legend draws from its active involvement in the world of sports to create the most accurate measuring instruments and sports-inspired timepieces ever made. TAG Heuer has always pursued innovation and excellence- the summit of performance, the summit of prestige -from the Olympic Games in the 1920s to the best in Formula 1 with Team West McLaren Mercedes, and from Louis Vuitton 's Cup and the Moiit Cup with Oracle-BMW Racing to the golf of Tiger Woods. In 2004, TAG Heuer forged a partnership with the Indianapolis Racing League to become Official Timekeeper and Watch of the JRL and legendary Indy 500 race. TAG Heuer is a fully owned company of LVMH Group.
TAG Heuer dares to re-invent Monaco its automotive-sounding the most technologically advanced of name, the V 4 derived from timekeeping design and movements by the movement's four jettisoning into the 21st century with a barrels, which are never before horological innovation mounted on a V called: the Monaco V 4 Concept shaped main Watch. Developed under the strictest plate angled at of confidence, TAG Heuer broke with 15 degrees, tradition as its best engineers and similar to the watchmakers guided by inventor and engine of a designer Jean-Fran9ois Ruchonnet en racing car. tered into uncharted waters by creat De ing a technological breakthrough with spite the many an advanced integrated, patented me revolutions chanical movement in a powerful new that have oc design. What began as an idea has now curred in the emerged as the Monaco V 4 Concept world of time Watch, unveiled at Basel Fair 2004, keeping, little has changed in the me need to have synthetic rubies as bear and giving new meaning to the chanical movement. Until now, watch ings; and an oscillating weight rotat company's motto: "SwissAvant-Garde movements were based on the tradi ing on its own axis provides a since 1860." tional contrivance of a kinetic chain of movement's spring barrels with energy. Built like a car engine, the fun pinions. The components and bottom The technology of the new V 4 watch damental mechanical dynamics of the plate of the V 4 were engineered and breaks with age-old tradition in a tech V 4 concept watch rely on a patented machined at the TAG Heuer workshop nologically advanced integrated me belt movement that provides transmis in La-Chaux-de- Fonds, then assembled chanical movement that relies on none sion, friction, torque and power. Work and finished by famous Swiss master of these mechanical premises and uti ing from this perspective, TAG Heuer's watchmaker Philippe Dufour. lizes the smallest dented belt system team of designers, watchmakers and in the world. engineers created the first three Watchmaking That Relies The V 4 movement replaces paradigm-shifting responses in watch On Automotive Technology the pinions of the traditional mechani making, creating a never-before seen In traditional watchmaking, cal movement with a relay of 13 drive timekeeping machine. It is this unique the movement's power must be belts in which tension is controlled by design component that gives the transmitted by wheels; rotating axes turnbuckles and the gauge measures a
8 Horological Times • September 2004 slender 0.5 x 0.45 mm. The linking barrels aligned in a 2-by-2 series and automatic chronograph with and turning of the two axes in the same linked by a differential with a V-shaped microrotor, created in 1969 and still direction by the use of a belt is much bridge. Each barrel gives a force of375 ahead of its time. Worn by Steve more efficient than by the traditional grams for a total of 1.5 kilos. The bar McQueen, the original Monaco's big, means of an intermediate wheel. This rels are mounted in a V (angles at 15° squared-off case signaled a complete revolutionary concept, the use of belts with respect to the dial) and two con break with conventional watchmaking in a watch movement, is the founda stant velocity joints, also adapted from aesthetics. For the new Monaco V 4, it tion of a TAG Heuer worldwide patent. the automobile world, transmit energy made perfect sense to build upon this The oscillating weight tradi to the movement. The barrel bridges ground-breaking heritage to showcase tionally used to wind an automatic are in sapphire, allowing the movement TAG Heuer's continuing quest to raise watch movement has been replaced by to be visible from below. the bar in conventional watchmaking. a linear oscillating weight. In the V4 's The audacious sleek design of Yet, even without the signature TAG case, this is a 4.25-gram platinum in the Monaco V 4 Concept Watch Heuer logo, the V 4 is instantly got that moves up and down on a track matches the revolutionary movement recognizable as a TAG Heuer design. between the four spring barrels. A gear it houses. The beveled sapphire crystal, Like the brand, pure design in and of system on the long side of the weight manufactured in 3-D, curves down to itself is the timepiece's founding engages a cogwheel and propels join the sides of the case. The small principle. the linear movement into a rotating second hand is at 4:30. The folding movement. buckle bracelet is in stylish alligator. Centuries of Watchmaking For the rotating parts, TAG The overall design is inspired by the History Heuer relied on automobile design iconic Monaco, the world's first The history of modern technologies. Thirty-nine micro ball watchmaking began nearly four races help minimize friction in the centuries ago with the Huygens' power transmission system, replacing invention of the spiral in 1675. The the traditional use of synthetic red next key advancement was in 1753, rubies. The smallest ball race has when Beaumarchais created the a diameter of 2.2 mm and is 0.5 first watch with escapement. In mm high. The bearings have 1770, Perrelet designed the little balls rotating within first automatic movement. them that have a diameter Fifteen years later, Breguet of0.25 mm. invented the tourbillon, and The movement's in 1822, the first energy is provided by four chronograph was invented.
September 2004 • Horological Times 9 The TAG Heuer Monaco V4 Concept Watch Features:
Transmission: 13 notched belts of 0.5 x 0.45 mm 39 ball races of 2.2 mm diameter and 0.5 thick
Energy: 4 barrels storing 375 g of energy each: 1.5 kg total strength The first patented drive-belt transmission in a watch movement Automatic winding system: Linear oscillating weight: 4.25 g platinum ingot
Movement features: 18,000 vibrations per hour Small second at 4'30
Watch features: Stainless steel case Beveled edge sapphire glass Alligator strap with folding buckle
The first linear oscillating mass TAG Heuer made its first Representing Swiss watch major contribution to Swiss watch making at its revolutionary best, the making in 1897 with the oscillating Monaco V 4 Concept Watch takes TAG pinion, still used in today's traditional Heuer's proud and unparalleled tradi mechanical chronographs. tion of innovation and prestige into the ,' . !. :' In 1916, TAG Heuer extended third millennium as a new way to mea the technology with its Micrograph, the sure time. TAG Heuer will begin mar first stopwatch to measure time to the keting the Monaco V 4 watch in 2006. 1/lOO th of a second. In 1966, TAG Heuer's Microtimer was the first timekeeping instrument to accurately For information: measure to the 1/1000th of a second. In 1969, TAG Heuer revolu TAG Heuer North America: tionized chronographs at Basel by Livia Marotta 4 barrels storing 37:J g of energy each being the first to market an automatic Tel: (973) 467-1890, ext. 271 chronograph movement, its livia.marotta @tagheuer.com Chronomatic 11 with a microrotor to rewind the barrels. During this time, TAG Heuer Canada: Swiss quartz technology was pioneered Chris Hollinrake and the first Swiss LED and LCD Birchall & Associates, Inc. movements were showcased in the Tel: (905) 814-8893 Chronosplit Manhattan, one of the [email protected] first digital and analog display 0 chronographs, introduced in 1975. In 2002, TAG Heuer introduced the Microtimer F1 wrist timepiece, the first Swiss chronograph to measure 1/lOOOth of a second and winner of the Best Transmission by 39 micro ball races Design Award at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve.
10 Horological Times • September 2004 New York Aretz, Robert-New York, NY Miller, Eric-Cohoes, NY
North Carolina New Members Uy, Elmo-Greensboro, NC* California Pechman, Nicholas-Burnsville, MN Ohio Magro, Cal-Monrovia, CA* Wagers, Daniel-Saint Paul, MN* Perlmutter, Steven-Toledo, OH
Florida Mississippi Pennsylvania Oertel, Michael-Brandon, FL Kay, Joseph-Soso, MS Willome, Thomas-Pittsburgh, PA
Louisiana Missouri Washington Danner, Robert L.-Kenner, LA* Trombla, Bret L.-Kansas City, MO Williams, Elizabeth-Marysville, WA Sponsor: Richard L. Trombla 11-Giadstone, Maine MO Wisconsin Seltzer, Keith-Yarmouth, ME Conner, Ken-Janesville, WI Nebraska Michigan Johnson, Clay H.-Q'Neill, NE* International Max, Michael-Southfield, Ml Mackay, Douglas-Huntingdon, Cambs, Smalley, J. D.-Saginaw, Ml Nevada England Valerino, Victor-Las Vegas, NV* Girardin, Claude--Marin-Epagnier, Switzerland Minnesota Flood, Adam-Minneapolis, MN New Hampshire *AWCI welcomes back these individu Hampl, Joseph-Merrifield, MN Doolin, Walter-Sandown, NH als who have chosen to re-instate their Hong, Sarah-Minneapolis, MN Lantz, James E.-Newport, NH membership.
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September 2004 • Horological Times 11 Rolex Urges Industry Partnership with AWCI
As part of the A WC!s 2004 National Convention/Annual Meeting, the following introduction and speech took place Friday evening, August 6, 2004 after the wonderfully successful ElM Trust Fund Raising Dinner on House Island, Casco Bay, Maine. The speech was presented to the A WCI membership by Charles Berthiaume, Senior Vice President Technical Operations, Rolex USA at the Sheraton Hotel, South Portland, Maine.
Originally from central Connecticut, Mr. Berthiaume has spent his last 27 years in the watchmaking profes sion working in New York. He graduated from the Joseph Bulova School of Watchmaking in 1977 when he also became a Certified Watchmaker with the AWL He began his career as a watchmaker in the service workshop of the Norman M. Morris Corp., then importers of Omega and Tissot watches. In 1980 he joined Rolex Watch USA, where he continued his technical education on the job attending periodic training courses at their factory headquarters and Vocational Training Center in Geneva, Switzerland. Over the years with Rolex, his responsibilities have included; Bench Watchmaker, Customer Service Techni cian, Technical Instructor, Technical Manager, Vice President, After Sales Service, and is currently Senior Vice Presi dent, Technical Operations for the U.S. market. He has represented Rolex as an expert witness in numerous Federal District Courts involving counterfeiting and various trademark infringement cases. He has conducted seminars assisting U.S. Customs and other law enforce ment officials on counterfeit watch identification methods. He was instrumental in organizing Rolex grant funding needed to support two venerable watchmaking pro grams at North Seattle Community College and more recently the Saint Paul Technical College. He is currently the Director of the Lititz Watch Technicum, an independent, not-for-profit watchmaking school funded by Rolex and located in Lititz, PA. - Jim Lubic
Thank you Jim. And, I'll have you know ... that I am here I would like to thank tonight as a card-carrying member ... and as an your president, Jack Kurdzionak, industry representative, one of several who have and all those Board and Com joined us for this convention. It is significant to note mittee members with whom I that the reason we are together tonight is in support was able to spend time today. of the AWCI's Education, Library & Museum (ELM) It was a great day. And of Trust. For this is all about Education, the basis on course, I thank you, the mem which the AWCI is founded. bership, for allowing me this My intention here is two-fold: First, is to share opportunity to address you here this evening. and promote a vision that a number of us feel is in I would also like to acknowledge your ex deed attainable as the next evolutionary step in se ecutive director, Jim Lubic, for orchestrating the chain curing the future of the watchmaking profession in of events that led me here tonight. Jim and I have the U.S. Second, is to elaborate on, and clarify, where kept in touch periodically over the past few years Rolex Watch USA stands and the role it can play in but it wasn't until Jim invited me to visit him in this progression. Harrison, Ohio last fall, that we began a dialogue You know, to be quite honest, back when Jim towards a common goal on which I would like to approached me to attend and invited me to say a share my perspective with you tonight. few words - half kidding - I asked him if any
12 Horological Times • September 2004 "body annor" would be in order. Because I realized So, we then began the process of accepting that many of you in this room, in fact most every applications for spare parts accounts with individual watchmaker in America, is affected both positively watchmakers and retail jewelers. And we opened over and negatively by the decisions made by watch manu one thousand of them. We based our decisions on repu facturers, whether those decisions are on the sales tation and, somewhat on blind faith, relying on the and marketing of new products or on spare parts dis credentials being offered on resumes or listed on the tribution policies. We all know there is frustration application forms. and confusion out there, and it seems to be aimed Three years ago, we went one step further by directly at us. requesting photographic records of necessary equip My goal here this evening is to accentuate ment and workplace conditions of each account with the positive with all that is possible if we work to the goal of obtaining a better idea of who we were gether. I need not tell you that the current state of dealing with. affairs with our profession is at odds with itself. On However, it was not until Heinz Leuenberger, the one hand, for the past ten years or so, luxury watch as Rolex's_technical field service director, began vis manufacturers have been experiencing positive sales iting these very accounts, that we began to realize growth, especially in the high-grade mechanical the reality of the situation. Since then, Heinz has dis watch sector, which we all know requires qualified covered the full spectrum of conditions: the good, technical support. On the other hand, we find our the bad and the ugly. selves facing a serious shortage of qualified Many have turned out to be excellent, model technicians. examples of professionalism, while others were op We can say one solution is to groom a new erating in deplorably unprofessional and embarrass generation of watchmakers by building new schools ing circumstances. Some are in clear violation of their and supporting more educational programs. Another agreements regarding the unauthorized use of Rolex is to find a way to identify, locate, qualify and up trademarks. He also comes across the occasional ac date those that already exist. One thing is for certain: count that has no workshop whatsoever and is re we cannot continue on this current course, for we selling our spare parts. And when verifying those risk losing all the renewed interest and new-found photographic records of equipment from the account fascination that the market has in the mechanical files, it is uncanny just how many timing machines watch. If enough customers become disenchanted and amplimeters are off site being serviced. with their service ... we all lose. Consequently, we have been closing some ac At this point, if I may, I would like to share counts. However, this is not our preference, for we some of Rolex's perspective on these topics, for I need as many qualified independent watchmakers as was directly involved in many of those decisions that we can find. To give you an example, we know ap affected our service policies. For example, back in proximately how many Rolexes are in the U.S. mar 1996, Rolex decided to restructure its distribution of ket that are eligible for service on an annual basis. spare parts. At that time, counterfeiting and model Our own service organization annually services about conversions were rampant in the industry. And, you one-third of that total number. And, if we include may recall, that Rolex was especially the hot target. those units serviced collectively by our official re We also had the ever pervasive issue with shoddy tailers, we are still below 50%. So, it is safe to sur workmanship being performed by underskilled mise that all the rest are being serviced by everyone technicians. else. Therefore, contrary to popular belief, Rolex We came to the realization that we were in has no illusions of ever centralizing its service in this advertently contributing to and supporting this prob country. It is just not possible. lem by selling the bulk of our spare parts through Unfortunately, what has become apparent in wholesale material houses ... without knowing the end America today is that anyone who thinks they can user. We needed to know who our spare parts cus repair a watch can simply hang out a shingle and tomers were if we were to affect the quality of take in work without any question of proficiency or service that Rolex customers expect and deserve. At competence. And they feel that they are entitled to Rolex, we believe that each service experience, wher obtain whatever brand spare parts they think they ever it is performed, can potentially influence a need. What is wrong with this picture? customer's next purchase decision.
September 2004 • Horological Times 13 Is Rolex being unfair in its selection process? It is clear that we have overlooked a good number of No. Are we being overly cautious? Quite possibly. existing professionals of this generation who are already However, we have concluded that we have the right out there. and obligation to safeguard our customers and our As you know, some of us in the industry have good name. since become involved with assisting some schools We realize that this is a serious issue, and it through WOSTEP, such as Okmulgee, Seattle, St. is not just a Rolex issue. It is an industry issue. We Paul, and three years ago we opened Lititz. I'm sure need help. We need to effect a change. We need a my industry colleagues would agree that this involve collaborative effort to create a minimum standard of ment has been an invaluable learning experience for professional competency that can serve as a reliable all of us. It has led us to recognize a real opportunity benchmark recognized by all the members of our in before us that can help solve our current dilemma dustry: manufacturers, importers, retailers, profes and move us toward leveling this professional sional organizations, watchmakers, our customers, playing field. and ultimately by the general public. We asked ourselves, what if we were to take We also recognize that, since its inception, what we are teaching in our schools and compare the AWCI has been the standard bearer of our notes with the AWCI and collaborate to rebuild the profession's certification standards. And that this or national certification competency standards and test ganization is to be admired and credited for sustain ing to a new level that meets our collective needs? ing those traditional values and ethical standards on Ideally, the results would be on par or better than which the American watchmaking profession is the level of competencies that we expect of our founded. The AWCI has survived through some dif graduates. ficult years when its support from the industry and When we achieve this goal, manufacturers its members had shifted away due to radical market could choose to make this new certification one of transitions. And, understandably, one unfortunate the qualifications to apply for and maintain a consequence over the years has been a weakened spare parts account. We would then have available support of its certification testing qualifications. a baseline reference standard for professional competence. Times have changed! Over the past few months a group of us have been brainstorming together in order to see how we We find ourselves in the twenty-first century, can best restructure the current Certified Watchmaker where the American watch industry is no longer about examination qualifications. We have already had the manufacturing. It has become a service industry. opportunity to pilot-test it at three schools and, al Many watchmakers out there today, who are gain though it still needs some fine tuning, ... the ball is fully employed, strive to or are already earning a rolling. A great deal of time and energy has already substantial portion of their income by servicing gone into this behind the scenes, and I'd like to ac luxury Swiss timepieces. Most of these timepieces knowledge those individuals who have contributed have high performance expectations with specific so much of themselves to jump start this vision and service needs that require a certain level of skills ... help make it a reality: Jack Kurdzionak, Vince skills for which the manufacturers have provided only Schrader, Joe Schrader, Bernhard Stoeber, Hermann limited support. Mayer and Jim Lubic. In the early '90s the Swiss industry launched There is a great deal of work still ahead of us an initiative creating the WOSTEP curriculum that and I am confident that our "dream team" will grow could be shared with schools internationally, with the accordingly. We'll need everyone's help. Rolex is sole intention of resuscitating a weakened knowledge committed to partnering this challenging endeavor base which threatened the future of the watchmak with the AWCI.It is what's next in our professional ing industry. By then, the mechanical watch market evolution. had already reinvigorated itself, and the industry was Our time has finally come to work together. ill prepared to support it. The WOSTEP initiative Thank you. - Charles Berthiaume is succeeding in guiding our next generation of 0 professionals~ however, it unfortunately is not having the much needed impact on our current state of affairs.
14 Horological Times • September 2004 The Word is Out-Time to Get Involved! Jerry Faier, CMC, Education Committee Chairman
With the adoption of the new to: l.) Have his product properly repre of that trade. These are tough exams. They Standards and Practices for Watchmakers, sented and 2.) Say how it is cared for as have to be! This is the only tool we have the Board of AWCI has set in motion the he chooses. As to who should paint (ser to see who is, and who is not qualified. most important changes in our organiza vice)? We can only determine a person's But the other side of this coin offers great tion since its formation in 1960. At the skill through testing! If we set out stan promise. You see, since industry was in annual meeting in Maine I told a story dards to be followed, then we can test for volved with this program, they too can see which, I believe, describes why these stan those who can meet those standards by who can handle their products. dards are necessary and how we must re practical examination. From the examina Our future lays in our ability to late to the industry if we are to grow and tion we can mark those individuals with demonstrate what we can do. Not tell it or develop our profession. Certification awards. In our painter ex play with it until we get close, but what we The story goes like this: The ample, if the painters were certified from CAN DO!! What can you do for yourself? owner of a house sets out to find a painter a set of known standards, the homeowner Go to AWI Matters (http://finance. to paint his home. He wants the house to could select his workmen quickly and eas groups.yahoo.com/group/awimatters/ look nice and the surrounding area to be ily. So it is with our trade. We must first members must belong to AWl Matters in clean and neat when the work is done. He develop a set of Standards and Practices order to gain access to the web site) to down calls two workmen, Jim and Sam, to give of how any job is to be done. Then an ex load a copy of the Standards. Study them. him bids. Sam comes in and looks over amination is developed from those stan Practice them. Master them! Then pass the the job and says he can do it quickly and dards to test who can meet the criteria. The CW exam! No college degree guarantees fairly inexpensively. Jim, however, tells a challenges for the Education Committee success or money but you know how much different story. He explains that the ceiling are to develop all this in conjunction with further you can go with it. So it is with the needs to be taped off, the floor covered, and the industry (the owner of the house) that Certified Watchmaker certificate. The sto any other items on the wall that cannot be provides the products we service (the walls ries you hear about some watchmakers earn removed must also be masked off and pro to paint). Now, the people who own this ing six figures are true. They are the top (and tected. Jim also discusses the previous wall product can better choose who will have I mean top) craftsman of our trade. Want to coating and what he feels will give the cus the opportunity to service it. There are doz know how you stack up against them? Pass tomer the longest lasting results. ens more comparisons in this example the CW and you will soon find out! The customer, now perplexed as from determining which standards (how Are we revoking the old certifi to which would be the best, decides to take the job should be prepped, the paint, even cations? NOT AT ALL! But to be current one wall and put a taped line down it and the tape, etc.) to the cleanliness of the work and on top of the game, you must upgrade have Jim paint one side and Sam the other. and the work area (splatters, tool condi to today's needs especially in the chrono Then he can see first-hand which worker tion, even the correct tools to do the best graph area. Remember the original exam is the one to paint his house. Sam comes job) but I think you get the idea. was for watch materials made before the in, lays out a tarp and begins to paint. In a Several points are becoming very 1960s. Things have changed! If you have short time, Sam has the wall thoroughly well known: l.) World wide, people are passed the CW or CMW in times past you coated and begins to remove his equipment buying many more high quality mechani will need to take a 2-day course on chro and clean up. The owner comes in and in cal and quartz watches with many special nographs. This course is still being de spects the job. One or two tiny splatters, features; 2.) Chronographs are seeing an signed and will be up and running as soon the ceiling line is not exact but appears fine all time aggressive sales increase; 3.) In as the new certification is unveiled. This as viewed from the floor. Very good, but dustry is struggling hard to maintain their course will travel as well as being avail now it's Jim's tum. quality image; 4.) The number of quali able at AWCI in Harrison, OH. Remem Jim comes in and tapes off the fied watchmakers, at the bench, is still in ber the certificates now read 21 '' Century ceiling edge, masks the baseboard/floor decline; and 5.) The quality of repair/ser Certified Watchmaker. juncture and covers all surrounding areas vice work is excessively variable from one One last item. Regardless of your with tarps to protect them. The wall sec worker to another, even from one country certification or experience level, AWCI tion is then washed and dried and a primer to another. needs your help. We need all kinds of folks coat is laid down. After the primer has At a speech given atAWCI's an to help write pieces for the new programs dried, a final top color coat is applied. Once nual meeting in Maine, Charles to train newcomers to our trade. Study the the topcoat begins to set, the tarps are Berthiaume, Senior Vice President Tech Standards and offer your talents. All the picked up, the masking tape carefully re nical Operations, Rolex USA, spoke to the committee members feel that anyone car moved and all tools and materials are challenges to our industry (see page 12). rying a certification title, regardless of cleaned and put away for the next job. Because of industry's willingness to work where it comes from or when, is obligated The owner inspects Jim's work withAWCI, we took another step towards to become a "steward" of our profession. and comments how crisp and clean the job being the " ... world's premier educational, Please show your profession some of your looks. No splatters at all, and all the edges, professional organization." Your Board ap passion. Show our industry your desire for floor and ceiling, are perfectly straight. proved and adopted a set of Standards for quality stewardship and mostly show a "Excellent," said the owner. "Sam, I'm sorry quality service, second to none-any respect for what you have had the oppor but I want Jim to paint the rest of the house." where in the world! Secondly, we have de tunity to develop, to the next generation who Sam, although disappointed, knows there are veloped an exam that truly tests the skill will succeed you! As we lose fellow horolo plenty of other jobs he can paint the way he of the henchman and gives Industry a guid gists, so horology loses a piece of itself. wants to that will be just fine for him. ing light to determine who can care for Don't be a complainer, be a contributor! How does all this relate to the their products. In any field, teacher, doc Contact AWCI and volunteer your efforts. watch and clock industry? The owner of tor, pilot, plumber, etc., you must demon Clockmakers, get ready. You are the house is much like the owner of a brand strate your skills to a Board of Examiners next! 0 of quality time product. He has the right who determine if you meet the standards
September 2004 • Horological Times 15 What Is It?
David J. LaBounty, CMC, FBHI
This question came up a few months but the dam thing appeared to function in the ago on the NAWCC Message Board concern opposite direction, pushing the "J" lever away ing a strange looking piece loosely attached from the strike release pins rather than draw to the inside of the back plate of a movement. ing it towards them as is normal. No matter I must admit to posing the same question the which way I turned "it", "it" was either in the first time I ran into "it". I had disassembled a way or apparently not functioning. So, I gave Seth Thomas hip-style movement, thinking it up and assembled the movement. That's when was just like all of the rest I'd seen. But then I found out what "it" was! I had to get it back together! I can remember the frustration I had trying to get "It" is a counter weight with flirt, at this ... thing ... arranged and out of the way so tached to the back plate and operates in such a "it" would function in any capacity. At first I fashion so as to allow the hands to be turned wanted to make "it" a strike lever return weight backwards. Here's how it works ...
) )
Figure 1. Just before warning, the "]" lever is being Figure 2. As the center shaft is rotated, the strike held in the proper position by the flirt on the counter release pin contacts the "]" lever and moves it into weight. warning. Note: The counter weight is resting on the center shaft or another strike release pin at this point and the flirt is not in contact with the "]" lever.
16 Horological Times • September 2004 }
Figure 3. Following strike release, the "] " lever has Figure 6. The center shaft has been turned fallen off of the strike release pins and has come to counterclockwise to the point the "]" lever has fallen rest against the counter weight flirt. off of the strike release pin. The counter weight has returned the "]" lever to its normal operating position.
A few final things to mention to ensure proper } function of this feature ...
The setback counter weight is a lever and shouldn't be oiled or it will become sticky. Also, it will not be necessary to install the usual lever return spring on the "J" lever arbor. A return spring would be counter pro ductive since it would work against the counter weight. This could cause the "J" lever to be in a position in which it would miss the strike release pins. Figure 4. Turning the hands backwards causes the strike release pins to contact the inside ofthe "] " lever The NAWCC Message Board is a forum dedi and draw it towards the center shaft. The counter cated to horological discussions and can be found at http:/ weight is forced away from the center shaft as a result. /nawcc-mb.infopop.cc/eve/ubb.x 0
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September 2004 • Horologicallimes 17 A Morbier Clock
David J. Carlson
The Morbier1 clock shown in Figure 1 is an early model with a verge escapement and a built-in alarm. Later models have an anchor escapement. Gazeley2 in his book on escapements refers to the Morbier models with the verge escapement, saying, "They are best left as in origi nal, as any alteration is a lengthy and thus costly busi ness." Unfortunately, this advice was not followed by an earlier repairer. The long pallet verge escapement in the Morbier has the disadvantage of providing a very small locking face on the crown wheel. The problem can be seen sche matically in Figure 2. When compared to a more effi cient verge escapement found in English designs, the number of teeth in the crown wheel is limited and the weight must be greater to drive the pendulum with the available impulse. A front view of the movement is shown in Fig ure 3. A close-up of the verge escapement in Figure 4 shows the crown wheel and the pallet assembly. The verge was removed from the movement (Figure 5) and in spected. The rather limited locking distance, 0.041" was determined by measuring the wear area on the pallet. This measurement defined a close tolerance for any run out between the crown wheel and the pallet assembly or valu able impulse energy would be lost. The crown wheel was tested by mounting it in a watchmaker lathe (see Figure 6). (A bushing of the proper size was used in the tailstock chuck to act as a live cen ter.) The crown wheel was out-of-round and the teeth were not level. The out-of-round problem was resolved by using a six-jaw chuck (Figure 7) and alternately tight ening and releasing the crown wheel while rotating it in position. The variation in the height of the teeth was cor rected by topping the teeth. After the crown wheel was reworked, it was mounted together with the verge in the movement to in spect the depthing, which proved to be inadequate. Ad justing the depthing is critical for proper function of the escapement. As shown in Figure 5, there is little room for error. The first attempt to adjust the depthing involved moving the crown wheel on its arbor. In this vintage clock, Figure 1. Morbier clock
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the wheels are generally soldered to the arbor. There was evidence of several previous attempts to adjust the wheel based on coloration of the arbor. The estimated distance to move the escape wheel was 0.040". A pair of hemostats was clamped on the arbor the desired distance from the crown wheel. The assembly was heated with a mini pro pane torch and held so that gravity would do the job when the solder melted. After the repositioning, the crown wheel was checked in the lathe.
September 2004 • Horologicallimes 19 Moving the crown wheel on the arbor was a good The time train was assembled and tested. It was first approximation but it was not close enough to assure found that the depthing had to be set very shallow to clear optimum locking. It was clear that an auxiliary adjust the adjacent teeth of the locking tooth. The available im ment would be required. The lower support for the crown pulse with this setting of depth would not drive the pen wheel (Figure 8) was modified by drilling and tapping for dulum. The setup of the crown wheel and pallet arbor was a brass 10-32 screw and locking nut. The screw was cen again reviewed and an error was found in the location of ter drilled to accept the crown wheel arbor pivot. With the pallet arbor to the center of the crown wheel. The er this fine adjustment, the depthing could be set with ror was corrected by moving the top support of the crown reasonable accuracy. wheel. The support can be seen immediately to the right of the bell stand in Figure 10. The hole in the top of the case and the pivot holder screw hole were filed to give the adjustment capability, 0.050". With this adjustment, and additional depthing the function of the escapement proved satisfactory. The full time train was assembled and a bench test was successful.
Alarm The alarm feature of the clock is similar to the early kitchen clocks. A mini dial behind the hour hand on the face of the clock can be adjusted to ring within the next twelve hours. The alarm assembly (Figure 9) is on the left side of the movement. The driving force for the alarm is the two small weights visible on the left side of the clock in Figure 1. The smaller weight keeps tension on the alarm cord and the larger weight drives the alarm. The effective weight is the weight difference between them. The arrow at the lower left in Figure 9 indicates a small version of a verge escapement that drives the alarm bell. The actuator arm and cam that controls the alarm timing is indicated by the upper arrow in Figure 9 and is also visible in the front view of the movement (see Figure 3). The alarm and strike hammers are located to the right and left, respectively, of the bell (see Figure 10).
Pendulum The pendulum uses a "silk thread" type suspen sion which is housed in the triangular shaped structure Figure 4. Verge escapement located at the top center of the movement (see Figure 3).
0.614" I
0.041"
Figure 5. Locking depth on pallet face
20 Horological Times • September 2004 Figure 6. Topping the escape wheel
Figure 8. Crown wheel support
Figure 7. Rounding up the escape wheel L-G "OPENALL" WATERPROOF CASE WRENCH Designed to open Rolex Oyster- cases. The six tempered rings will fit every existing size and The pendulum has an interesting feature. The slen because they are precision-made to interlock, they will not slip. The built-in adjustable case holder fits der flat shaft is jointed in two places to enable it to be all size watches. The L-G "Openall" can also be folded for storage. This feature has a liability. If the pen used in conjunction with the L-G wrench. Ring dulum rod is not straight, it displaces the pendulum bob sizes are 18.5, 20.2 , 22.5, 26.5, 28.3 and 29.5mm. and changes the beat adjustment. CWR-650.00 Openall Case Wrcncb ...... •...... $69.25 CWR-655.00 Openall Case Wrench w/ Base ...... $77.30 Weights L-GMASTER CASE OPENER The weights for the clock appear similar but cau Opens all sizes and shapes of tion was exercised to put the heavier weight (9 lbs) on the waterproof cases. Comes with four sets of pins for case time side, left, and the lighter weight (8 lbs) on the strike backs with notches, holes, side, right. knurled or polygon. Because of the L-G patented closing system, backs can be unscrewed wnhout being scratched. Pins and accessories also available. 5-1 /2' in length. USA made. It was satisfying to restore this clock. It was also CWR-600.00 ...... ••...... •....•...... •...... • $44.95 true as Gazeley stated that it took a lot of time and re sources. Contact me through AWCI for any questions or comments.
Endnotes 1. The Morbier or Comtois clock was made in the French
September 2004 • Horological Times 21 Figure 10. Alarm and strike hammers
district of Franche-Compte, usually in the towns of Morbier and Morez from 17 50 until1900. The clocks were usually of the long case and wall type clock with a long pendulum. The early clocks had a verge escapement which was changed to an anchor escapement in later models. The clock features an upright rack and strikes on the hour, repeats the hour strike at three minutes after the hour and once on the half hour. Source: Watch & Clock Encyclope dia, Donald De Carle.
2. Clock and Watch Escapements, W. J. Gazeley, p.17. Figure 9. Alarm assembly 0 American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute is now offering to members Health & Benefits Solution Programs Utilize the buying power of AWCI
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22 Horological Times • September 2004 New York State Watchmakers/Ciockmakers Association 66th Annual Convention October 23-24, 2004 Holiday Inn 304 So. Hamilton Street - Gang Mills-Painted Post, NY 607-962-5021
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Sunday: 8:00-9:00 Registration 9:00 Refinishing Hands & Screws by Jonathan Rowe 11 :00 Making Carbied Pivot Drills for Watches by Dale LaDue, CMW 12:00 - 1:00 Lunch 1 :00 Striking Mechanisms by Burton Rought & Cameron Spicknall 3:00 TBA 4:30 Annual General Meeting
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September 2004 • Horological Times 23 Rock Quarry
Fred S. Burckhardt, FAWI
One day, while I was sitting in a lotus happened. position, contemplating the meaning of life, I said, "Maybe you have to put it in something interrupted my train of thought, side the clock so it can push against the wheels which isn't very hard to do. I remembered back as it unravels." to an old friend of mine, Pete Henlein from "Don't be silly," said Pete. "Ifl put it Niimberg. inside the movement there won't be room for Pete and I went to different schools anything else." together. As he was a blacksmith, Pete was "Why don't you make another piece, always fooling around with mechanical type only much smaller," I answered. "Then there stuff while I was the intellectual type, as even will be plenty of room for the other parts." then I was contemplating the meaning of life. "I guess it's worth a try," said Pete. One day Pete was taking a clock apart and let "Let's go to work." one of the weights drop onto his foot. After After a few months more of beating screaming for a few minutes, he said, I'm go the iron, Pete decided to give it a try. It proved ing to invent something else to keep these to be much too small so he decided to make a clocks running besides weights. I wanted to smaller clock. Finally, he got it all together scoff, but knew better as Pete would put his and to everyone's surprise, it worked. whole heart and soul into whatever he wanted The only remaining problem was to to accomplish. give his invention a name. At first he thought I saw Pete a few weeks later standing that since it gave power to the wheels it should in front of an iron fence and gate that was made be called a battery. I told him no since Ben up of fancy curls. I knew he was thinking of Franklin wasn't around yet to fly his kite so something as there was a light bulb shining he would be stepping in on someone else's ter above his head. I said. "Hi Pete. I know you're ritory. Then he came up with the name thinking about something as there is a light "Spring." This wouldn't be any good as there bulb shining above your head." were other springs in the piece so it would have He answered, "You must read a lot of to be called a certain kind of spring. After hun comic strips. But to answer your question, yes. dreds of suggestions, all the names were re These curly pieces have given me an idea as jected. Then one day after becoming exhausted to how to make something to give power to from trying to think of a name, he sat down run a clock and in a few centuries to run and was looking out the window and noticed watches. Ifl can only make one of these pieces the name of his street, which was Main Street. a lot flatter and curled a lot more, it may work." "That's it!" He cried. "Since it is a spring and For the next few months, Pete and I was invented here on Main Street, we'll call it a beat on a piece of iron until it was flat and Mainspring!" then curled it with his wife's curling iron. The name didn't last long. Since his When it was finished, Pete said, "This will clock was an oval shape, it came to be called change the whole clock industry!" He then the Niimberg Egg!" It is mostly remembered carried the piece of metal over to his clock. as a great invention in that if it were dropped After removing the weight, he hung the metal on your foot, it wouldn't hurt as much as a on to the hook and stood back, but nothing weight. Way to go, Pete! 0
24 Horologicallimes • September 2004 Horological Association of Maryland 2004 Fall Seminar
Sunday, October 24th 9:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. Days Inn 1660 Whitehead Blvd. Baltimore, MD 21207 , Directions take 1-695 to Exit 17 (Security Blvd.) then right on Whitehead Blvd. ,. Registration Fee: $60.00 including on site buffet lunch Guest Speaker: August Cornell August Cornell is a well known instructor and speaker in both the jewelry and watchmaking worlds, and is the past president of the New York State Watchmakers. His practical and highly detailed workshops in bench techniques span the restoration of antique clock and watch mechanisms, as well as, the gold and silver cases in which they reside. Beginners and seasoned watch and clock repair personnel benefit equally from his insightful and useful approach to timepiece repair and restoration.
Subjects: There will be two sessions, one covering clocks and one on watches. The clock session will cover "Common wear problems in American Clocks-Too worn to run but not to repair''. The session on watches has not been finalized at this time. One of the sessions will cover gold soldering in the repair of both clocks and watches. Mr. Cornell will also bring watch bezels to be fitted to hunter case watches. Participants are invited to bring their watches to have a bezel fitted. He also invites you to bring a problem timepiece or case repair to the seminar for an on the spot solution
BOTH AWCI AND NAWCC MEMBERS ARE INVITED TO ATTEND! If interested, please contact Jack Bishop. Class size is limited. Address: 2 Lynhaven Court, Severna Park, MD 21146 Phone: (410) 647-9057 E-mail: [email protected]
SUPER WATCH MATERIAL HOUSE SINCE 1972 FERRELL & CO., INC. 635 Hill Street, #204 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Orders 1-800-523-7534 Information & Inquiries (213) 627-6031 Fax (213) 236-0755 E-mail: [email protected] TAG Heuer Bezel Inserts .. To Fit 980.020R TAG Heuer ~ Blue Silver or Black Silver Push Buttons j $24.99 To Fit Case CG1100 & CA1212 OMEGA Bezel Inserts (generic) To Fit Seamaster - Blue Silver or Black Silver $33.00 each $24.99
CALL FOR OUR COMPLETE MOVEMENT & BATTERY PRICE LIST
FERRELL& CO.IS NOT AUTHORIZED BY OMEGA or TAG HEUER
September 2004 • Horological Times 25 From the Workshop
Jack Kurdzionak, CW You Are Invited cleaner for cases and bracelets, case and brace Do you have a solution to a watch or let polishing equipment, and specialized tools clock repair problem that you want to share for various watch brands and calibers. This list with our membership? Do you have a ques is not all-inclusive, but it does provide a good tion about a repair problem you would like to checklist. ask? I invite you to participate in this column The required equipment and supplies with your suggestions, questions, and com for watch cleaning has drastically changed in ments. It's easy. Just e-mail me at AWCI the past fifty years or so. Some literature from
26 Horological Times • September 2004 Loose Screws "tinker" with this movement if it needed repair. He has Case and bracelet screws have to be secure enough received a lot of conflicting advice from others regarding to hold cases and bracelets together, and must not come replacement cells and repair hints for this movement. loose; but, must also be able to be removed by the watch I wrote the following response to him. "An Omega maker in the future without damaging or breaking them F300, caliber 1250 tuning fork watch (frequency 300hz) (especially when working with soft gold screws). Direc was the ultimate quality tuning fork watch made during tor Manuel Yazijian writes to us about his experience with the very brief time tuning fork watches were produced. It the screws that are used to secure various parts of cases was actually produced by ESA in Switzerland as its cali and bracelets. They sometimes come loose, and Manuel ber 9162, and marketed under several brand names in has shared his method to prevent their loosening, yet to cluding Omega and Longines. The tuning fork in this ESA allow their future removal. Thread-locking compounds, movement was balanced, unlike that ofBulovaAccutron. such as Loctitea, are available to secure screws in place. The balanced tuning fork eliminated the positional error (Note: one must be cautious when using these locking found in the Accutron (about 6 sec/day). The F300 mod compounds to be certain that they are not toxic to the els were chronometer-rated, but did not carry the "ad watchmaker or watch owner. They must not cause any justed" label on the plate. That lack of a label allowed the harm to gaskets, lubricants, or circuits associated with the importers to avoid the extra import duty collected on "ad watch). Manual's practical experience with case and brace justed" timepieces. F300 watches were designed to run let screws shows that stainless steel screws come loose on a 1.35v cell, #343 (now out of production due to a ban more often than those made of karat gold. Because of this, on cells containing mercury). However, they will run quite he suggests a weaker thread-locking compound for the well with a 1.55v cell, #344. Their circuitry will with gold screws. So to secure gold screws, he uses glue from stand the higher voltage indefinitely. Only a highly quali a pasty glue stick sold by stationers for gluing paper prod fied watchmaker, experienced with this model, should ucts. It is non-toxic and easily applied to the screws and it repair these watches. Repair of these is quite different than provides enough security to hold gold screws in place in that of a Bulova Accutron. In addition, spare parts have order that they do not loosen while the watch is worn. been discontinued and are very scarce." Although they will not loosen in service, a watchmaker Jack Kurdzionak using the correctly sized screwdriver can remove them 0 without damage.
More About Loose Screws Willem Van Kempen suggests that screws secur ing case backs to watch cases be retightened after the watch has been subjected to a pressure test for water resistance. Dry water testers can subject a watch case to pressures of up to 140 psi and compress case back washers more than can be accomplished by merely tightening the screws. This sometimes causes the case back to tighten further onto the back of the watch, while the screws still remain in their prior positions. Even though a watch case may have passed the water resistance test, the screws can become loose in this scenario, and require further tightening to prevent a future water leak due to loose case back screws. He suggests you make the retightening of these screws your customary practice after every pressure test for water resistance. All this every month at a bargain price for AWl members: $65 1\ming Fork Technology (normal price $79) for the first year's subscription. Just fill in the A new AWCI member recently purchased an form below and send it, along with a US$ check made out to 'Splat Omega F300 tuning fork wristwatch and asked me sev Publishing Ltd', to Clocks Magazine, Elizabeth House, Royal eral questions about it. He noted that it said chronometer Elizabeth Yard, Dalmeny EH29 9EN, UK. Tel/fax: 044 131 331 3200. Email: ubscri'[email protected]. on the dial but the movement was marked unadjusted. He ·------I ------,I was concerned about this seeming inconsistency between :First name ...... Last name ...... AWI N1> ...... : I I I I what was printed on the dial and what was engraved upon •Address ...... 1 I I the movement. He wanted to know how accurate these I I I I · ·~• •• ••oooooOOOO · oOoOHoo·On ... O·OOO ·O O • ooooooo•ooooooooooooooooooooooo o ooooooooooooooo~oo o o·o o oo o noo oo o oo oooooo o ooooo o O_.ooo o oOooOooooo_.OOOo•ooOO•••• J movements actually were because he understood that the I I Bulova tuning fork models had a positional error. Finally, : ... - ...... Zipcode ...... Country ...... : I I I I he asked about using a silver oxide cell and if he should :Telephone Nl! ...... Email address ...... @ ...... :
September 2004 • Horological Times 27 New Bushing System Part 2 The Bushing Jig
Laurie Penman
The system and tools described in these articles are the subject offive-day classes at Harrison or by a local Bench Course, Using the Center Lathe for Clockrnaking Tools #1, during which most of the tools can be made and used. The class is intended to provide instruction and experience in the use of the center lathe and other wo~kshop tools. P~ease contact Nancy Wellmann at (866) 367-2924, ext. 303. This new system ofbushing was deszgned by Laurze Penman and developed at the A WCI in Harrison.
The Jig or Tool error and when several bushes are placed, these In my first article I claimed that most errors accumulate and become critical. Repair existing bushing tools or jigs were inad ers have been known to fit more powerful main equately supported. By this I mean that al springs to drive a clock that has several bushed though a finder is used to determine the proper holes, simply to overcome the loss of meshing center for the bush housing, it is mounted too efficiency in the train. Such a spring speeds up far from the plate it is locating in and the ac the wear on the gears, pivots and pivot holes - tual quill or tube that it slides in is often shorter and the frequency of repairs. than the distance to the lower end of the quill The bushing tool for this system keeps from the plate. Any wobble in the finder is the finder close to the plate and provides a therefore multiplied in its effect. In addition, longer support for it than the distance between the single edged reamer that is operated in this support and plate. In addition the taper on the quill develops a sideways thrust as it cuts away finder is shallow and provides a more reliable at the uneven periphery of the worn hole. In (and visible) contact with the remaining pe fact at the start of the cutting operation, an riphery of the original hole. The quill that the enthusiastic user can produce distinct 'bumps' finder slides in acts as a drill bush for a straight in a badly worn hole. This, and a few years of fluted drill with balanced cutting edges. This use, increases the clearance between the finder cuts quickly with no discernible 'kick' to the and the quill that guides it, so that location in side and produces an accurately sized hole that the true center of the original hole is a matter will accept a standard bush or plug diameter of luck or experience and skill. The reamer and a good interference fit. (The bushes can be that is used after finding center produces a made to close dimensions using the tool de housing hole that is almost always better scribed in the fourth article. It takes only a few placed than the worn position of the pivot cen seconds to produce the bush from stock of any ter and gives the impression that a satisfac brass required.) tory repair has been achieved, but there is an After locating the finder in the plate, two locking screws are employed to hold the plate in position. Since there is little or no kick from the drill, the location of the plate remains true with finger tightened screws.
Description of Tool The body is made as a long shallow 'U' and the most economical method of pro ducing this on a one off basis is to fabricate it Figure 5
28 Horological Times • September 2004 I ~m:nl -----...- § § ""~ ~ Dowels ~-- 11 '- Grub screw 3mm Figure 6 Finder for 5mm dia. holes Finder for 3mm dia. holes down to 2mm dia. down to the smallest dia. from bright drawn mild steel (BDMS). Three pieces are Figure 7 used, two with a section of 1" x Yz'' and one of 1" x 3/8". The first two form the base and the top bar (which holds the locking screws and the quill or bush), and the third plates that the tool is intended for. In this case it is for makes a spacer between the two. All three are held to chiming and striking clocks and the distance from the cen gether by 14" US Fine thread countersunk screws and dow ter of the quill to the end of the spacer (the throat) should els. The top and bottom pieces are about 8" long and the allow any hole in these large plates to be reached. There holes shown are spaced out to handle the range of clock is nothing fussy about the placing of the locking screws; OTTO =;;;;;;;; JULES==;;; QUALITY WATCH & JEWELRY SUPPLIES FOR GENERATIONS SINCE 1930 FREI&BOREL ;; Visit our Web Site Request a Horological ~ ~"- !ffi].' 126 Second St., Oakland Ca. 94607 Shop On-Line for over 8,000 items Parts & o_,.,. •- -- Supplies OTTlll'lli!LJltzS~~CU. IIUilfUT. Phone 800-772-3456 OMia..A.""D.C... I.II'QIL\I!A-1 Catalog lliGI~::.OJ,!~ Fax 800-900-3734 [Address II http://www.ofrei.com I Go I a=> Today E-Mail [email protected] Watch Repair Tools, Parts and Supplies The Best Tools from the Best Companies. We will work with you to supply you with hard to find tools and supplies. Bergeon 5500C Moebuis 9010 Case & Crystal Press Synt-A-Lube Reg.$159.00 Reg. $16.50 Sale $144.00 Sale $12.98 Just a sample selection of the items on Sale this month. Visit our web site or contact us for a complete list. Orders Desk 1-800-772-3456 Tech & Info 510-832-0355 Fax 1-800-900-3734 September 2004 • Horological Times 29 Finder in use Drilling worn hole Figure 8 it is purely a matter of convenience. Generally I expect to use two locking screws to hold the plate. Three tapped holes allows me to avoid locking down on some part that Locking screws made of brass would be damaged. The hole for the quill must be drilled Two needed perpendicularly to the top surface of the top bar. The bottom bar has a hole immediately under the Figure 9 quill to clear the drilling of the plate. If this is its sole purpose, it does not need to be accurately placed, but I found that it was convenient to have this hole absolutely concentric with the axis ofthe quill and use it as an alter Locking screws, quill and 'finder' native occasionally. If that is your intention, do not drill The locking screws are made from brass and a either the top quill hole nor the bottom until the next stage die is used to screw them to W' USF. The ends of the is complete. screw are turned to remove one thread and then polished Countersunk clearance holes are placed in the top so that they do not scratch clock plates when used. They bar for the screw heads, clearance holes only in the spacer could be drilled and a piece of rubber inserted for the same and threaded holes in the bottom. These holes are drilled purpose, but I have not found this necessary. No great whilst the bars are clamped together. Practically speaking pressure needs to be exerted by these screws and a short it will make no difference if these bars are slightly mis (1" long), tommy bar slipped into a hole in the top gives aligned, but the tool will look better if care is taken in this enough leverage for fingers to make the job secure. operation; line up the sides and the ends of all three be The quill is made to be a push fit in the top bar fore drilling the tapping size through all. Now open up and a small grubscrew in the bar will hold it there. Make the top and spacer to allow the screws to slip in, counter a shallow hole in the side of the quill for this grubscrew to sink to bring the heads of the screws level with the bar locate in. The material for the quill is drill rod (high car and tap the bottom holes. bon steel) because in addition to holding the finder it is Insert the screws, line up the sides and end of the also the drilling bush for the straight fluted drill. Make three bars before fmally tightening and, when that is done, the hole fit the drill, by choosing your drills carefully and, drill two small holes for dowels. The three bars should if necessary, polishing out the bore with emery paper or now be immovable. If the quill hole has not yet been emery dust on a brass rod; above all make sure that it is drilled, do so now. As I said before, if the hole under the drilled dead true to the diameter that fits in the bar. This quill is to serve as an alternative position for the quill, top means that the diameter and the hole need to be carried and bottom holes must be truly concentric. By far the best out at the same setting in the chuck. Note that the overall way to achieve this (and ensure that they are perpendicu length of the quill should be as great as will allow the drill lar to the top bar), is to strap them down on the table of a to be held in a drilling machine and drill through the plate. milling machine, place a supporting piece between top The distance to the bottom of the clock plate from the top and bottom, just to one side of the hole position, center it of the tool is 7/8", add another 118" for clearing through with a center drill and then drill out with two drills; one the plate. That is a total of 1" to the top of the tool. If the that is smaller than the finished size and one that is the drills that you can obtain are 214" long this allows only correct diameter and in good condition. Advance the drill 1W' of drill above the bar. A Yz" is needed for the drill evenly on a fine traverse, either manually or under power, chuck to grip the drill, so a quill that extends%" above so that a good finish is obtained inside the holes. the bar is as much as can be obtained with this drill. 30 Horological Times • September 2004 The reason for wanting as long a quill as possible is to give good support and location to the parallel shank of the finder. The finder is turned from drill rod too. You will probably need two or three of these for different diam eters of pivot holes. A taper of 9° included is needed. If this tapered portion of the finder is kept to 5/8 II and brought to a point that will enter a 1132 11 hole, there will be just over 1 II of finder shank in the quill; this is quite sufficient for accuracy. As the holes become larger, of course, the supported length of shank will increase to a maximum of 1% II. The diameter of the drill will probably be about 3/16" which means that the support of the quill is a mini mum of five diameters. Overall length of the finder should leave about %II outside the quill for you to grasp with your fingers. Both the quill and the finder should be oil hard ened and tempered. The finder is tempered to light amber and the quill to dark amber. Polish up the bore and the taper and shank of the finder, but do not work so hard at it Figure 10 that the fit becomes loose! 0 ~ Advanced Watch Back Presser ~ HEAVY DUTY Couldn't close watch back due to dome or pointy shaped crystal? Have problems closing name brand watch backs, such as Swiss Army or Fossil? + Heavy Presser - Close watch back safely & securely without breaking crystal + 10 Metal reversible cups- Help secure the watch + Heavy base setting -stabilized Presser & Handle will not break PAT #US D485145 S Ref#CN 2004-0001 Guaranteed to close all watch backs L E E ' s G R 0 u p U S A 120 F Dorman Centre Drive leesgrou [email protected] Tel: 864-357-5683 Spartanburg, SC 29301 Fax: 864-574-4825 September 2004 • Horological Times 31 Continuing Education for Clockmakers Instructor: Laurie Penman Location: Harrison, Ohio These courses are structured so the student may choose to attend the entire 18 weeks or decide to take part in only the classes that meet his/her immediate needs. You must be a member of AWCI to participate in these classes. $175.00 @ 5 day class $350.00 @ 10 day class AWCI accepts payment by check, money order, or major credit card. Please contact Nancy Well mann, Education Coordinator for further details. [email protected] or toll free (866) 367-2924, ext. 303 COURSE DATE Phase I - Hand Tools September 20 - 24, 2004 Phase II - Lathe Work September 27 - October 1, 2004 & October 4 - 8, 2004 Phase Ill - Bushing/Pivoting October 11 - 15, 2004 Phase IV - Striping Modern Striking Clock Movements October 18 - 22, 2004 & October 25 - 29, 2004 Phase V - Testing and Time Rating of Clocks November 1 - 5, 2004 Phase VI - Recoil Escapements November 8 - 12, 2004 & November 15 - 19, 2004 Phase VII - Striking Mechanism January 3-7, 2005 & January 10-14, 2005 Phase VIII- Rack & Snails and Gathering Pallets January 17- 21, 2005 & January 24- 28, 2005 Phase IX - Various Types of Clocks January 31 -February 4, 2005 & February 7- 11, 2005 Phase X - Repair Time February 14 - 18, 2005 Phase XI - Repairs Cases, Dials and Hands February 21 - 25, 2005 & February 28- March 4, 2005 32 Horologicallimes • September 2004 BENCH COURSES To schedule a Bench Course in your area please contact AWCI for complete information. A list of available Bench Courses is printed here for your convenience. To register for Bench Courses, please mail, phone, fax or e-mail your registration and payment information to: American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030-1696; Toll Free 1-866-367-2924, Phone (513)367-9800, Fax (513) 367-1414, E-mail: [email protected] PLEASE NOTE: Registrations are limited and will be selected by the earliest date received. Please include a check or charge card number CLOCK AND WATCH PIVOTING TOOL (Visa, Mastercard, Discover or American Express), card expiration 066887 ...... $275.00 MEI'ALBOW date, signature and phone number. All registration fee checks and 066813 ...... •..•... • ...... •..$42.95 charges are processed immediately upon receipt. DEADLINE FOR HAIR FOR BOW REGISTRATION IS 30 DAYS BEFORE THE SCHEDULED DATE OF 066813A ...... $8.90/pkg. THE COURSE. •Indicates Bench Courses held in conjunction with a convention or purchased by an AWCI Affiliate Chapter. For more information on these specific courses, please refer to the contact information provided for each class. BUWVA STAFFS Regular price is $2.65 DATE CLASS INSTRUCTOR to $8.40 EACH! 01-7995- 12 asst. .$5.95 asst. LOCATION FEE OCTOBER 2004 GRUEN STEMS AND STAFFS 1-2 Advanced Clock Repair Roland Iverson Regular price is $4.00 each! St. Louis, MO $250.00 01-7867A- dozen •••• $5.95 asst. Regular price is $5.30 each! 01-7867B- dozen •••• $6.95 asst. Extra Special! AWCI BENCH COURSES Buy one of each assortment and save an additional $1.00! Advanced Clock Repair 01-7867C- Combo •••••• $11.90 Beginning Lathe Clock Case Repair WALTIIAM HAIRSPRING Clock Escapements 03-7254 ...... _ ...... $16.95 ea. Cuckoo Clock Repair ETA Products Filing & Flat Polishing 400-Day Clock Repair "AVAilABLE AGAIN" Hairspring Vibrating SETII THOMAS CLOCKS Introduction to American Pocket Watches &MOVEMENTS Introduction to Clock Repair By Tran Duy Ly. Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair Sbll-J TI:fOl\L\,.S Regularly $79.50 each! CUX KS & t-10\'EMENTS ,...,.~ . ~l 055270 ...... $63.50 ea. Lathe Program Mechanical Watch Repair Micro Lathe Operations Tools • Books and Supplies Mechanical Chronograph Organize Your Work Habits for Success Clock Material • Crystal Fitting Service Platform Escapements American/Swiss Watch Material Repair of the Atmos Clock Repair of the Bulova Accutron Mainspring Fitting Service • Clock/Watch Movements Seiko Kinetic Quartz Watch Repair Name Brand Grandfather Clocks Sequential Chime Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Customer Service Center open 7 am - 6pm M- F, Striking Clocks 8:30am - 12:30pm Sat., to better serve you! A Study of the Deadbeat Escapement 322cl Yanct>yvilk St. c;rt>ensboro. N.C. 2740!1 Swiss Auto Quartz l'honv: 1-H,'lH-7!'i:Z-71i7:l • Fax: 1-HOO-S:l7-4SJ:l • www.slamsl'.com September 2004 • Horological Times 33 AWCI Spare Parts Survey Update Franck Muller USA, Inc. Still in Business Ginny Arakelyan, Director of Advertising & Public Relations for Franck Muller USA, Inc. states that Franck Muller USA, Inc. is still in business and can be reached at the following address, phone and fax numbers: Franck Muller USA, Inc. 207 West 25th Street, 8th Floor New York, NY 10001 Tel: (212) 463-8898, Ext. 210 Fax: (212) 463-7082 It was previously reported in the July 2004 HT Spare Parts Survey that this company was no longer in business. We apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused. Please see the complete survey for Franck Muller USA, Pierre Kunz & European Company Watch on the following page. AWCI Home Study Course in Clock Repair Based on the original correspondence course written and administered by Laurie Penman, AWCI's resident clock instructor, this course is con structed to provide information and instruction in a manner that is immedi ately useful in both learning and practicing clock repair. The course contains 16 lessons. At the completion of each lesson you will receive comments and suggestions from Laurie Penman, and a pass or fail grade. Those who achieve a pass grade in each section will receive a certificate of completion. Mr. Penman will be available to answer questions or offer suggestions to each student. The AWCI Home Study Course in Clock Repair package contains all the material and information necessary to successfully learn the fundamentals of clock repair, including The Clock Repairer's Handbook by Laurie Penman and a one-year subscription to Steven G. Conover's monthly publication, Clockmaker's Newsletter. Course participants will be invited to attend a 2- day meeting at AWl to confer with Mr. Penman and meet other students. AWCI Members - $750 Non-members - $825 Contact Nancy Wellmann, AWCI Education Coordinator E-mail: [email protected] Phone Toll Free 1-866-367-2924 ext. 303 or (513) 367-9800 34 Horological Times • September 2004 A WI Spare Parts Survey 2004 Brand(s) covered by this survey:Franck Muller, Pierre Kunz & European Company Watch N arne of questionnaire responder: Ginny Arakelyan Title:Director of Advertising & Public Relations Section I YES NO 1) Does your company sell parts to anyone other than to factory authorized service centers?...... D ~ If you answered NO, proceed to question #15 2) If yes, do you sell to retail dealers?...... 0 0 3) To retail dealers with factory trained watchmakers?...... 0 0 4) To qualified professional independent watchmakers? (List necessary qualifications on back)...... 0 0 5) To independent material houses?...... 0 0 6) To anyone who inquires about purchasing parts?...... 0 D Section II (Check all areas that apply) 7) Do you sell movement parts?...... 0 0 7a) If yes, are they sold: To dealers 0 To dealers w/factory-trained watchmakers 0 To material houses 0 To independent watchmakers 0 To anyone who inquires 0 On an exchange basis 0 8) Do you sell case parts?...... 0 0 8a) If yes, are they sold: To dealers 0 To dealers w/factory-trained watchmakers 0 To material houses 0 To independent watchmakers 0 To anyone who inquires 0 On an exchange basis 0 9) Do you sell crystals, crowns and gaskets...... 0 0 9a) If yes, are they sold: To dealers 0 To dealers w/factory-trained watchmakers 0 To material houses 0 To independent watchmakers 0 To anyone who inquires 0 On an exchange basis 0 10) Do you sell bracelets and/or straps and their components?...... 0 0 lOa) If yes, are they sold: To dealers 0 To dealers w/factory-trained watchmakers 0 To material houses 0 To independent watchmakers 0 To anyone who inquires 0 On an exchange basis 0 11) Do you sell dials and hands?...... 0 0 lla) If yes, are they sold: To dealers 0 To dealers w/factory-trained watchmakers 0 To material houses 0 To independent watchmakers 0 To anyone who inquires 0 On an exchange basis 0 12) Do you sell case components (bezels case backs, complete cases)?...... 0 0 12a) If yes, are they sold: To dealers 0 To dealers w/factory-trained watchmakers 0 To material houses 0 To independent watchmakers 0 To anyone who inquires 0 On an exchange basis 0 13) Do you offer specialized repair tools, technical/parts guides and/or special lubricants?...... 0 0 13a) If yes, are they sold/available to: Dealers 0 Dealer's w/factory trained watchmakers 0 Independent watchmakers 0 Anyone who inquiresO Section ill (Check all areas that apply) 13) How do you prefer to receive or accept spare part orders? Fax 0 E-mail 0 US Mail 0 Telephone 0 On company formatted order forms 0 Other 14) The methods of payment you accept: Credit cards 0 including: Visa D MC 0 Discover 0 AmExD Personal check 0 Money orders 0 Approved open account 0 Other accepted forms Section IV 15) If you answered no to question #1, are there conditions under which you would modify your policies regarding spare part distribution to independent watchmakers? Please elaborate on the back or contact AWI Executive Director, Jim Lubic toll free 1-866-367-2924, ext.310 September 2004 • Horological Times 35 Affiliate Chapter Report The AWCI convention and meeting Horological Society of New York- Ben Matz Glenn D. Gardner, was superb. The Chronometer Club started the North Carolina Watchmakers Association - CMW meeting out on Thursday with an all day bench Mack Shuping course on the ETA 2892-A2 chronograph. Watchmakers/Clockmakers Association of Thursday night was the welcoming Ohio - Charles McKinney party and a preview from Vincent Schrader and Capitol Area Watch & Clockmakers Guild of the education committee about the standards Texas - Dennis Warner AWCI has set for watchmaking exams. Horological Association of Virginia - Dr. Friday morning was the start of the Lloyd Lehn Affiliate Chapter meeting. Vincent Schrader Washington State Watchmakers & Clock went into more detail of how the Education makers - Thomas Payne Committee plans to work and answered ques Wisconsin Horological Society - Glenn tions after his talk. Next we heard Ron Price, Gardner our webmaster, tell us about the new AWCI NAWCC/AWCI Chapter #102 - Gerald website. This will be a more interactive site Kincaid which will give our membership more infor The Chronometer Club -Wesley Grau mation about benefits and also make more things available to them. The referral direc If you do not see your chapter listed, tory should easily pay for your membership ask to represent your chapter next year. The according to Ron. This new website should be discussion between the representatives was working by October. great as always. Membership seems to be going down. Some have been getting new There were 17 Affiliate Chapters rep members through getting people interested in resented this year: night courses. Another big concern among Central Illinois Watchmakers- Steve Spinner the delegates was communication. AWCI Indianapolis Horological Society-D.C. Chambers needs to let the members know what is being Horological Association of Maryland-Daniel done through the year and not just at the an Spath and Gerald Kincaid nual meeting. This was brought up by several Massachusetts Watchmakers-Clockmakers chapters and the AWCI Board of Directors Association - Stephen Boynton and David heard what was said. My guess is they will Kurdzionak respond. The website will definitely help with Minnesota Clockmakers Guild-Daniel Wagers communication. Minnesota Watch & Clockmakers Association Questions or comments are welcome. - Richard Zielike and Wes Cutter Contact me at ggardnerl @ charter.net Metro St. Louis Watchmakers -Gene Bertram 0 Watchmakers Association of New Jersey - Hans Weber SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL AFFILIATE CHAPTER For information on forming a new chapter, call 1-866-367-2924, ext. 304 36 Horological Times • September 2004 AWCI has partnered with lntercorp, Inc., to offer a Horologics Insurance Program for Dealers and Collectors . • Coverage for your inventory on premises or stored in a bank vault, at shows and expositions, and in transit. ... ' 11 \~. • State-of-the-art online program (www.shipandinsure.com) provides coverage for package shipments via Federal Express, United Parcel, and the Postal Service. Discounts on shipping rates up to 40% when you use FedEx. No two dealers or collectors are alike, so coverage can be tailored to your specific needs. For more information, calllntercorp at 800.640.7601, or download the application form from the AWCI web site at www.awi-net.org. 1438-F West Main Street, Ephrata, PA 17522-1345 • Phone: 717.721.3500 • Fax: 717.721.3515 Envelope Sale! Sale prices good thru 9/30/04 "Triple Duty'' Repair Envelopes Each numbered envelope has two numbered detachable stubs; one for the customer and the other for filing. Lay-away schedule on back Each envelope is =~~e- ... , - 5-3/4" x 3-1/8". Made of standard kraft paper. Boxes of 1000 per series. -- Series Number Item # Series Number Item # 1 to 1,000 EV110/1 5.001 to 6.000 EV110/6 1,001 to 2.000 EV11 on 6,001 to 7.000 EV11 on 2.001 to 3.000 EV1 10/3 7,001 to 8.000 EVllO/B ... 3001 3,001 to 4.000 EV11 0/4 8,001 to 9.000 EV1 10/9 4.001 to 5,000 EV110/5 9.001 to 10,000 EV110110 List price $41 .50 Reg . price $39.95 Sale $34.95/bx Blank Job Envelopes All purpose envelopes. 5-1/2" x 3-1/8" Made in the USA. Boxes of 500. EV207 Brown Kraft Save 10%! Sale $11.25 EV208 White Woven Save 10%! Sale 11.25 11 Twin City Supply 2230 Edgewood Avenue South rw1Nco www.tw1nc1tysupply. net Minneapolis, MN 55426-2823 Phone: 952.545.2725 Fax: 952.545.4715 • USA: 800.328.6009 Fax: 800.328.6001 9/04 HT September 2004 • Horological Times 37 BULLETIN AWCI Directors' BOARD E-mail Address Directory NEW REQUESTS Director AWCI E-mail Address Swartchild Friction Jewel Assortment #49004JF Jim Door: President jdoor@ awi-net.org David Pierce, Gambier, OH, is seeking a copy of a chart for the Swartchild friction jewel assortment #49004JF. Dennis Warner: Vice President dwarner@ awi-net.org Alice Carpenter: Secretary acarpenter@ awi-net.org RESPONSES Mark Butterworth: Treasurer mbutterworth@ awi-net.org Ollie Baker Mainspring Winder David McMahon, Amberley, ON, Canada; Richard Junttonen, Mark Baker [email protected] Plymouth, MI and Shawn Johnston, Winnipeg, MB, Canada, have responded to Frank Malicke's request for an instruction Gerald Jaeger gjaeger@ awi-net.org manual for an Ollie Baker Mainspring Winder. James Sadilek jsadilek@ awi-net.org Do you have information regarding this month's requests? Do Manuel Yazijian myazijian@ awi-net.org you need information about one of this month's responses? If so, send your information or requests to: James Zimmerman jzimmerman@ awi-net.org Horological Times Bulletin Board 701 Enterprise Drive Glenn D. Gardner: Affiliate Chapter Director [email protected] Harrison, OH 45030-1696 Toll-Free: 1-866-367-2924, ext. 307 Doug Thompson: REC Director dthompson@ awi-net.org Phone: (513) 367-9800 Fax: (513) 367-1414 Willem Van Kempen: lAB Director wvankempen@ awi-net.org E-mail: [email protected] 0 AWCI Member Websites • Have you always wanted a website for your business, or are you unhappy with your current website? • Do you feel that your business needs more exposure to your customers? • Do you want a website, but don't know where to start, and assume it would be a costly venture? • Do you just not have the time to mess with it? Go to awci.companysitecreator.com AWCI and Companysitecreator have worked together to offer an opportunity to all members! It literally takes just a few minutes to build your new site in 5 simple steps from start to finish. Two packages are offered ($8.95 per month or $18.95 per month), and you are able to see your site before you decide to purchase. 38 Horologicallimes • September 2004 -----~ Payment processing tailored to your needs, a partnership with AWCI, and reduced rates just for members. And you thought your timepieces were reliable. First National Merchant Solutions can provide your business with an affordable way to accept credit and debit payments, convert checks to instant cash, and receive payments over the internet. Just some of the ways we can help you grow your business ... find out more today. (j) First National 800-354-3988 www.membersales.comjawci-net Merchant Solutions ~ 706 S. Hill St. , #580 Tel : (213) 622-1687 Los Angeles, CA 90014 SMITH SUPPLY HOUSE Fax: (213) 488-0922 I======LOS ANGELES Watch Materials, Supplies &Tools Watch Battery Distributor LOOKING FOR OMEGA PARTS? DON'T WORRY WE HAVE THEM AND CAN SUPPLY THEM! SPEEDMASTER BRACELET SPEEDMASTER SPEEDMASTER CASE BACK #022ST1171 PROFESSIONAL BEZEL THE FIRST WATCH $89.75 $69.75 TO LAND ON THE MOON $99.75 YOUR SUPPLIER OF SPARE PARTS FOR ALL BRANDS OF MECHANICAL AND QUARTZ WATCHES, CLOCKS AND ALARMS CALL TOLL FREE (800) 23-SMITH September 2004 • Horological Times 39 Industry News Cas-Ker Company Purchases and director of the school for over 34 knowledge and there is always more Berkey Bros. Watch Material years. Alan Boyd bought the family to be learned in any field. and Crystals jewelry business in Paris in 1984. Gene Calloway, Vice Presi Richard Foster, Cas-Ker Vice Boyd reminded the students dent ofNAMANO/Southeastem Find President, has announced the purchase that honesty, integrity and outstanding ings presented the Stuller Awards for of the Bestfit watch material and G-S customer service is what allows local Excellence to Gary Sladek, first place; watch crystal inventory of Berkey jewelers and small business to success Misty Shipman, second place and Bros. of Oklahoma City. The inven fully compete with large chain stores. Eddie Haynes, third place. tory, which is estimated to contain over He gave examples of overcoming over Calloway handed out the 1,000,000 items, includes many rare whelming obstacles in their personal N AMANO/Southeastern Findings and formerly unavailable items and has and business lives by citing his own Awards for stone setting to Gonzalo been consolidated into Cas-Ker's op life. Forero, first place; James Russo, sec erations in Cincinnati. This marks the Boyd had to completely re ond place; and Michael Purcell, third ninth purchase of a watch material dis learn to use one side of his body fol place. tributor Cas-Ker has made in the last lowing a brain tumor and surgery. Fine The Clay Minton Watch ten years. motor skills is a major requirement in Award was presented to Luther Lucko. Berkey Bros. is a well-known the jewelry repair and design field. His Dean David McAnally and and respected name in the industry and was a miraculous recovery process. He Paris Junior College president, Dr. served its customers for over 50 years. admonished the graduates to remem Pamela Anglin presented jewelry tech Cas-Ker looks forward to serving the ber that ignorance always exceeds nology certificates to: Douglas W. Cox, needs of former Berkey Bros. watch material and crystal customers. For more information please contact Rick Foster of Cas-Ker at 1-800-487-0408. Texas Institute of Jewelry Technology Summer Graduation The Texas Institute of Jewelry Technology, a division of Paris Junior College, held summer graduation ceremonies recently. Twenty-nine students received certificates from jewelry, gemology and horology technologies. David McAnally, Dean of Ap plied Technologies, introduced TIJT faculty members, the college president, and the keynote speaker, Alan Boyd of Boyd Jewelry. Boyd spoke of his father, Luther Lucko, Leander, TX, center, received the Clay Minton Watch Award from TilT horology instructor Frank Poye, left, and Gene Callaway, Vice President of NANAMO/ Terrell Boyd, one of the founders of Southeastern Findings, Inc. The award was presented at summer graduation ceremo the jewelry school and an instructor for nies at Texas Institute of Jewelry Technology, a division of Paris Junior College. 40 Horological Times • September 2004 Paris; Daniel P. Hagar, McKinney; Vice President of Marketing for North Kelly Christina Briggs, Dallas; America, overseeing advertising, mar Gonzalo Forero, Houston; Steven R. keting communications, customer care, Pena, San Antonio; Eddie Haynes, public relations, product training and Rosser; James F. Russo, Hewitt; Misty in-store merchandising. During his Carroll Shipman, Georgetown; Jerre tenure at TAG Heuer, Wohn has been Brasfield II, Middleburg, OH; Gary part of the senior management team, Sladek, Ogden, UT; Carly Andrews, which has led TAG Heuer to consis Belen, NM; and Michael L. Purcell, tent double-digit growth and, year to Glenwood, AR. date, growth of more than 75 percent. Horology technology gradu "With such a talented and ex ates include: Le Sammy Loc, Fort panded TAG Heuer team, I find it re Worth; Oscar Guartuche Jr., Corpus warding to promote Ulrich from within Christi; and Luther Lucko, Leander. the group to this new position," said Receiving gemology technol Lalonde. "We aim and seek to ensure ogy certificates are: Brady Malcolm our managerial future by developing Batchelor, San Antonio; Steve Hobbs, strong talent, like Ulrich, and filling Lufkin; Susan Melissa Howland, positions by internal mobility ... it's Bryan; Joshua Whitt Hartman, Fort part of our philosophy." (QA) watch with date relies on a di Worth; John L. Shaver, Lubbock; E. Prior to joining TAG Heuer, rect mechanical connection between Diane McMillin and William M. Wohn served as President ofNespresso the time and date functions. A QA per McMillin, Fort Cobb, OK; Chasity Jo S.A., North America, a brand of Nestle petual calendar watch separates the Grogan, Neodesha, KS; Joseph S.A., where he was instrumental in time from the date, relying on a sepa Clemens Suchy, Rogers, AR; Kristin increasing sales by 50 percent, result rate system for each function. If the Marie Arnold, Monroe, LA; Kristina ing in the company achieving profit user manually moves the time past Anne McNab, Milwaukee, WI; Brian ability for the first time in this market. midnight, a signal is sent to the system Julius Reed, Ann Arbor, MI; David F. Wohn gained additional experience controlling the date, automatically ad Lack, Springfield, MO; Margaret Rose from his work as Swissair's General justing it accordingly. Set it once and Opela, Stapleton, NE. Manager of Marketing for North and it's set for life! Even when travelling, Pena, Sladek, Andrews and South America. just adjust to local time and the watch Cox also received casting certificates. Wohn is a graduate from the automatically maintains the correct University of Illinois where he earned date at your destination and when you a bachelor's degree in management and return home. Tag Heuer Appoints Ulrich Wohn marketing. Intended to showcase Timex's to New Vice President of Sales commitment to providing innovative and Trade Marketing and truly useful features, all timepieces TAG Heuer, one of the luxury Timex Introduces New Line of in the collection offer the unparalleled watch brands owned by Louis Vuitton Perpetual Calendar Watches visibility of Timex's Indiglo Moet Hennessey (LVMH) Group, has Analog watches that automati night-light, seven-year battery with appointed Ulrich Wohn as its new Vice cally maintain the correct date regard free replacement and are water President of Sales and Trade market less of the number of days in the month resistant at either 50m or 1OOm. ing for North America. and leap years have long been consid Working closely with the en In this new position, Wohn ered among the most technologically gineers, who were challenged to fit will lead the company's North Ameri advanced and desirable timepieces. such advanced technology into a "nor can sales operations, including whole Until now, that technology and desir mal" watch size, the in-house design sale, retail and corporate, in an aggres ability has always been accompanied team created a look that is both sophis sive growth phase and will report to by high prices. With its new Perpetual ticated and contemporary. Styles with LVMH Watch & Jewelry N.A. Presi Calendar Collection, Timex, for the round and rectangular cases are pre dent and CEO Daniel Lalonde. Wohn first time, makes the convenience of a sented with metal bracelets, expansion will also be responsible for oversee "set it and forget it" watch an afford bands and leather straps. ing corporate training and trade mar able reality. keting. A product for today and tomorrow During the past two years, How it works "The introduction of the Per Wohn has worked as TAG Heuer's An ordinary quartz analogy petual Calendar collection appropriately September 2004 • Horologicallimes 41 celebrates the 150-year Timex heritage The AWA is working closely collection/recycling program. The by building a bridge between today and with the Jewelers of America and state AWA was able to show that the watch tomorrow," notes Joe Santana, Timex's jewelers associations to implement the and jewelry industry already recycle President and CEO. "These watches new program. At the AWA's website the great majority of spent batteries. embrace Timex core values of technical and those of the jewelry associations, Watches use silver oxide but competence and design excellence, while the watch industry is posting a full de ton cells for their long life. Retailers remaining true to the company's reputa scription of why mercury is used in and watch companies collect these tion for making quality affordable." button cell batteries to prevent a "gas used batteries and sell them to waste Available Fall2004, prices for sing" phenomenon that occurs during management companies which reim the 23 watches in the collection will the electrolytic process and that would burse them for the silver content. In range from $62.95 to $79.95. In a move otherwise corrode the battery and dam addition, groups like the JA and the to differentiate these special time age the watch. Retailers are encouraged American Watchmakers-Clockmakers pieces, most Perpetual Calendar styles to download the information on a card Institute encourage their members to will be sold in attractive, reusable gift that can be given to customers. tum in batteries for recycling. "In this boxes. "TheAWA's andJA's informa way, profit motive and charity work to Located a few miles from the tion cards will allay any potential con gether to protect the environment," site where it was founded in 1854, the sumer worries and, at the same time, noted AWA Chairman Fischer. Timex Corporation is headquartered in provide better information to custom Connecticut is the first and, so Middlebury, Connecticut. For local ers than terse 'contains mercury, dis far, the only state to enact broad legis store information, call (800) FOR pose of properly' warnings prescribed lation regulating the use of mercury in -TIMEX or visit www.timex.com. by Connecticut," saidAWAExecutive consumer products. State officials have Director Toby Collado. Retailers have recognized the watch industry as an AWA Members Win every incentive to use the cards be example of responsible treatment of Mercury Battery Exemption cause they encourage consumers to batteries that might be adopted by The American Watch Associa return for battery replacement, thus in other industries. "Sooner or later, tion has won an important exemption creasing traffic in their stores. Connecticut's statute will be repeated from Connecticut's requirement that The labeling exemption ap in other states and we hope to win the consumer goods be labeled to inform plies only to AWA members. Other same exemptions there," explained consumers that they contain mercury. watch companies will have to label AWA's Collado. New York, California, Instead of affixing permanent labels to their watch products or obtain their other New England states are among watches or to watch packaging and in own exemptions. "Watch companies the nearly 25 states currently consid struction manuals, AWA member com that are not AWA members risk being ering mercury legislations. AWA Di panies will be able to inform consum in violation of Connecticut's law if they rector Steven Kaiser of Kaiser Time ers that some watch batteries contain do not label or get a separate exemp stated, "The mercury victory for AWA mercury via the association's website, tion," Collado added. members benefits the small brands at www. watchbatteryrecycle.org. The American Watch Associa least as much as the larger companies. Walter Fischer, Chairman of tion previously was able to win from Who has the resources and time to fight Rolex Watch USA and Chairman of Connecticut (1) a total exemption from these issues in every state? But the AWA, hailed the victory as a benefit labeling on the watch itself- confin American Watch Association has for AWA watch companies, retailers ing labeling to the packaging and the shown that it can protect its members and consumers alike: "Consumers will instruction manual- and (2) an excep and save them that expense. receive full disclosure without confus tion for AWA member companies from 0 ing labels interfering with retailers the state's requirement that watch making the sale." companies establish a used-battery NEED INFORMATION ON A PARTICULAR WATCH, CLOCK OR ITS MAKER? The Henry B. Fried Library is considered to be one of the world's finest horological libraries. Hundreds of books are available for your use whether it be for finding information for yourself or a customer, doing research on a special subject, or just for enjoyable reading. Customers appreciate a person that can talk intelligently when answering their questions. Make use of the library, it will pay big dividends! ANOTHER BENEFIT OF AWl MEMBERSHIP 42 Horological Times • September 2004 AWCI Material Search EDITOR'S NOTE: If you can supply any of the items If you can supply any of these items please con listed here, please send details to the AWCI Material tact: AWCI Material Search, American Watchmakers Search. Do not send the items to AWCI. Members re Clockmakers Institute, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH questing these items will be advised of their availability, 45030-1696. Toll Free: 1-866-367-2924, ext. 305; Phone: and will contact you directly. (513) 367-9800, Fax: (513) 367-1414 or E-mail: [email protected]. lUl Girard Perregaux 382-187 step motor (coil) (#10.510) or movement complete The AWCI-ELM Trust, in cooperation with the 1U2 Longines 11.62N center wheel (#201/?) or American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute, maintains center pinion this unique member service to assist professionals in re placing hard-to-find parts for vintage timepieces. There lUS Venus 178 upper balance jewel assembly is a fee of $10.00 for each search. (#400/946) from the balance bridge of a The AWCI Material Search first contacts several LeCoultre 497 dozen material houses and outlets on behalf of the mem ber to determine if the missing part is available from any 1U6 Seiko 6020A coil (#4002 920) commercial source in the United States or Canada. If 1U7 Audemars Piguet 18C automatic pawl wheel the part cannot be found, the search will be listed in the (#P2499/2) Horological Times. 0 lUS New Haven Clock, time & strike, round, 314" diameter, movement complete or strike rack, rack hook lever & strike third wheel 0 $22.50- One Year 0 $19.50- One Year Watch & Clock U $42.00- Two Years 0 $.35.00- Two Years U $60.00 -Three Ycars 0 $50 00- Three Years Review lS published Foreign subsc1·ibers add $10 per Fon•ign subsc1·iben add.~ 10 per 10 times per year and year. (U .S. Funds drawn from U.S. year. (U.S. Ftmds drawn :(rom U.S. bank only) bank only) •~ the mdustry's most· 0 Check or money order enclosed U Check or money orcler enclosed used pubhcanon-the 1.] Charge my Visa or MasterCard U Charge my Visa or MasterCard only one in North Card No. ______Card No. ------ Amenca devoted to Exp. Date------ Exp. Date ------ watches and clocks. Signature------Signature ------ Phone ______Get the one conve Phone ------Name ______Name ______nient source ot indus Address------Address------try new~ features City ____ State-- City ____ Stare ____ including eight annu Zip---- Country-- Zip Country -- al d~rectory ISSUes. Company Name----- Company Name ----- Type of Business---~-- Type of Business ------TRADE WATCH REPAIR Free Estimates - Fast Service - Call 214- MORGAN PIVO!f POLISHER Classified 551-9227 or E-mail: watchmakermike@ aol.com POLISH PIVOTS IN AS Also need old jewel lever watches and watch LITTLE AS £5-.7 SEC. maker tools. -~~~~=lAT HS 11\\I"C"""'" Advertising MORGAN CLOCK CO. 800-80~2220 9-5 CST CLOCK , MUSIC BOX MAINSPRINGS, GEAR MORGANPIIIOTPOUSHER.COM Regulations & Rates PINION CUTTERS, MATERIAL & PARTS CUSTOM MADE. TANI ENGINEERING, 1852 Ads are payable in advance 90¢ per word, St. Rt. 44, Atwater, OH 44201; (330) 325-0645. ATMOS $1.00 per word in bold type. Classified dis Catalog $3.00. play ads are $40.00 per column inch, 214'' Service & Repair wide. Ads are not commissionable or dis • 2-year Warranty on Labor & Parts countable. The publisher may, at the DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, Fast Turnaround • Best Price • Best Bet publisher's sole discretion and for any rea FINEST QUALITY, quantity works welcome. son and without notice, decline to publish or Specialize on changing dial feet positions to fit CLOCKMASTER, INC. republish any ad, in which case any fees sub the quartz movement. Send your works to: KIRK 2537 S. Brentwood St. Louis, MO 63144 mitted or paid for such ads shall be returned DIAL OF SEATTLE, 4th & Pike Bldg., Suite 625, (314) 968-1010 or rebated to the advertiser. The publisher re Seattle, WA 98101; (206) 623-2452. serves the right to edit all copy. Price lists of Toll Free 800-837-1545 services will not be accepted. Confidential ads are $10.00 additional for postage and han VERGE & LEVER FUSEE RESTORATIONS dling. The first of the month is issue date. 40 Years Experience Copy must be received 30 days in advance Barry J. Carter ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE (November issue closes for copy on Octo (250) 216-0791 We are Factory Authorized Service for: ber 151 ). [email protected] • VIBROGRAF & PORTESCAP HOROLOGICAL TIMES • TICK-0-PRINT & L&R 701 Enterprise Drive We service all makes of ultrasonics, all makes of watch rate Rolex Certified Watchmaker recorders, and related equipment. 25 years experience. Harrison, OH 45030 30 years experience. Genuine materials. Vintage Toll Free 1-866-367-2924, ext. 307 Rolex service. Also repair & restoration of re Phone (513) 367-9800 190 Deepstone Drive San Rafael, CA 94903 peaters, fusee, all pocket watches, chronom Used Equipment Bought & Sold Fax (513) 367-1414 eters, complications, Atmos clock service, ~ For Information ~ E-mail: [email protected] replating cases in 40 microns gold, convert to (415) 453-9266 rose gold color, any case. G C A La Precision, ~ ~ 3830 Parkland Dr., Fairfax, VA 22033; Tele phone: 703-627-4054; Fax: 703-352-8077; Safe Registered Mail; E-mail: [email protected] TRADESMAN ATMOS by Jaeger-LeCoultre FENDLEY & COX Completely overhauled with the WHEEL AND PINION SPECIALIST longest labor warranty on the planet! 1530 Etain Rd., Irving, TX 75060 Five years on all labor! POCKET WATCH & RICHARD COX 972-986-7698 MARINE CHRONOMETER REPAIR Mike's Clock Clinic CMC, FNAWCC, CMBHI General repair and restoration of antique and Established in 1982 & devoted www.fendley-cox.com complicated watches. Custom parts fabrication exclusively to the Atmos since 1990. including staffs, verge staffs, stems, levers, and I also overhaul 400-day clocks. springs. Located in Massachusetts. Matt Please call 877-286-6762 GLASS CRYSTALS Henning, CW (413) 549-1950; For pocket watches and wristwatches. For price http://www.atmos-man.com/atmos.html www.henningwatches.com list/order blank: Send SASE to Mel Kaye, Box r------., 322, Basking Ridge, NJ 07920. ALVIN KRUTOLOW FOR DIAL I HAMILTON ELECTRIC WATCH REPAIR ROLEX SERVICE Expert, experienced service on all Hamilton Master Watchmaker, 47 years experience. REFINISHING : 500 and 505 Electric watches. Hamilton electric Awarded technical certificate from Rolex in watches and parts always wanted. Rene 1977. Service includes case & bracelet refin I Rondeau, P.O. Box 391, Corte Madera, CA ishing & waterproofing of case. All watch parts ; 94976. Tel: (415) 924-6534. E-mail: are genuine Rolex. We specialize in the repair rene@ hamiltonwristwatch.com of high-grade watches & clocks. Not affiliated :!" with Rolex Watches, Inc. USA. Ask for Alvin or ._ . Marcus, (203) 792-4539. -· VINTAGE POCKET WATCH RESTORATION. Twenty-eight years experience, guarantee, free estimates. The Escapement, P.O. Box 522, Pooler, GA 31322; (912) 330-0866 BEFORE AFTER Quartz Conversions Diamond Dial Conversions CUT YOUR OWN WATCH GASKETS Emblem & Name Personalization Never order another useless assortment. Seal screw backs and snap backs while Write for Brochures your customer waits. Visit our web INTERNATIONAL DIAL CO., INC. site: dandsgasketcutter.com or e-mail: 58 W. SUGARTREE [email protected] for more information or 400-Day Clock Repair P.O. BOX970 call 713-661-6909. We also repair all types of WILMINGTON, OH 45177 watches & clocks. Prompt Reliable Service ... Guaranteed (937) 382-4535 Call Us or Visit dialrepair.com L------...1 44 Horologicallimes • September 2004 EXPERIENCED WATCHMAKERS In business since 1936. Trade watch repair shop located in Scranton, PA. We also carry a wide / eckcells variety of watch material, tools and supplies. Call Your battery connection and more ... for a price list. (570) 342-9442 or check out our 379 Main Street Stoneham, MA 02180 vintage watches at www.empirewatch.net NOW SUPPLYING MAINSPRINGS (NEWALL) For American-made watches CLOCK GEARS, BARRELS and PINIONS $5.25 each, $48.00 per dozen made from your sample, ARBORS re-pivoted, COMPLETE LINE OF SEITZ JEWELS teeth replaced in gears or barrels. All work guaranteed, fair prices fast turn around. EVEREADY, RENATA & MAXELL BATTERIES Call Mike Loebbaka, 86 Mullens Lane, Competitive pricing, monthly battery specials Saugerties, NY 12477; Phone: 800-411-4542, MCIVISA tictoc@ oldandnew.com TOLL-FREE 800-514-1270 PHONE TOLL-FREE 800-690-3303 FAX ARTICLES FOR SALE Regula and H. Herr cuckoo movements. Com plete selection. Also factory stopper new Her mie, Urgos, and Kieninger at 60% OFF our regu lar wholesale prices. Call Butterworth 1-800-258- 5418. STUCK FOR A MOVEMENT? TEqin~!~~i1 :!~1 ~ies or a watch part? Call Don Kraker's Watch Move HOW 10. !-I:A.III"6 A : .Z"J[I Timesavers 25-year professional watchmaker seeking em Box 12700 ployment. Experience includes Cartier and Scottsdale, AZ 85267• USA 1860 Weavertown Ret Chelsea Clocks. Please reply to: Horological 480-483-3711 I 480-483-6116 Times, Box SW404, 701 Enterprise Drive, [email protected] I www.timesavers.com Douglassville, PA 19518 Our 152 page Catalog #28 is $3 post paid 611J..689--9541 FAX: 610-689..0567 Harrison, OH 45030. September 2004 • Horological Times 45 EXPERIENCED CLOCK REPAIRMAN HELP WANTED NEEDED Full-time or part-time. 5 years experience mini mum. Service facility in the St. Louis, Missouri metro area. Must be able to disassemble and install bushings in a variety of clocks. Proficient WATCH PROFESSIONALS with a lathe and pivot work. Watch repair skills a plus. Compensation commensurate with knowl· Tourneau, the world's largest luxury watch store, Is open edge. Send resume to: Box HW78904, ing in Boston (Copley Place), MA and Arlington (Fashion c/o Horological Times, 701 Enterprise Drive, Centre at Pentagon City), VA. We are seeking fully skilled Harrison, OH 45030-1696. WC1tchmaken, Watch Service Te<:hnici On technical and scientific subjects Your Clock, Your Pocket Watch Your Barometer, ATO Battery Clocks Survival Navigation, Making a Planetarium Understanding the Astrolabe BREITLING Understanding Inertial Navigation 1884 Obtainable from: TECHNICAL DIRECTOR www.lockes.co.uk (secure purchase) Breitling U.SA., Inc., located in Wtlton, cr, is seeking an experienced watchmaker for the position of Technical Director. This person will oversee all aspects of aftersales service including technical staff (watchmakers, polishers, assemblers), quality control, parts, and customer service. Other responsibilities include developing and holding training programs, ensuring certification of WANTED TO BUY affiliated service centers, reporting to and from Swiss and US headquarters to ensure uniformity of procedULes and service, and control of turnaround time WE BUY WATCHES and flow of repairs. Candidates who have WOSTEP train in~ minimum 10 years Rolex, Patek, Cartier, LeCoultre, Vacheron, watchmaking experience,S years managerial experience, and fluency in written Breitling, Audemars, Tudor and others. Modern and spoken English are preferred. Knowledge of French is a p1us. Breitling offers or Vintage. Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 full benefits including pension, competitive salary and will pay for relocati on. Please send or fax your resume and cover letter to: We pay up to 97% of market for karat gold scrap HUMAN RESOURCES (any amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill , sweeps, BREITLING U.S.A, INC. silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment HANGAR 7, 206 DANBURY RD. return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: WILTON, Cf 06897 AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, 253 King FAX: (203) 834-8383 St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. Estab lished 1960. Phone (843) 722-2073. Chronograph movements, cases, dials, parts and watches. Paying: Valjoux 72 · $200.00; Ve WATCHMAKING INSTRUCTOR nus 178 • $150.00; Longines 13ZN · $350.00; Valjoux 69 • $350.00; also Rolex 620 NA • Candidates must be able to demonstrate professional watchmaker $350.00. Dean Samelle, 25 W Beverley St. , hands-on skills, knowledge of the horological field, public speaking Staunton, VA 24401 ; 1·866-877-8164. skills, basic computer skills, and be able to relocate to Harrison, OH Competitive Salary EOE WATCH MATERIAL DISTRIBUTORS Please send resume to: Please call us if you are interested American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute in selling your business. Attention: Jim Lubic All replies confidential. 701 Enterprise Drive Harrison, OH 45030 Contact Pat Cassedy or e-mail: [email protected] Cas-Ker Co. (513) 674-7700 46 Horological Times • September 2004 WE BUY ENTIRE WATCH COLLECTIONS Call Toll Free 1-800-426-2344 203-366-2500 TOP PRICE-S PAID! We also fit glass crystals to ROLEX· • PATEX PHIUPI!E SPECIALTY METALS Openface, Hunting, and English VA(:HERO & CON$TANTI REFINING AUDEMARS PIGUET chain drive watches. BREITLING • CARTIER COMPANY, INC. Complete watches, dials, & OTHERS 1915 Black Rock Turnpike movements, case springs for sale. When you're ready to sell Fairfield, CT 06430 ·. Call Toll Free Members: 1 ~800-842-8625 G F Specialties Ron Fried, Better Business Bureau Always prompt pa.ymenl! 1-800-351-6926 President "/look fo!Ward to Jewelers Board of Trade P.O. Box 170216 giving you honest and 227 Consecutive Ads Milwaukee, WI 53217 reliable service." ATTENTION RETIRED WATCHMAKERS Call us before you sell your parts, tools, and watches. We have helped over 130 watch makers in the last six years to dispose of their accumulations. When you're really $$WANTED ANYTHING$$ ready to sell, we're ready to buy! Phone (727) Rolex - Cartier - Patek - Breitling 327-3306. Ask for Jeff or Nancy. E-mail: Panerai - Le Coultre [email protected] Vacheron - AP - Etc. Watches, Boxes, Dials, Links, Parts, Bands, Movements, Crystals, Bezels, Crowns, Clocks, Collector seeks Early American watches, move Signs, Posters, Catalogs, Instruction Books, ments and dials by the following firms: C Fasoldt, Polish Cloths, Wallets, Hats, Shirts, Promo GP Reed, Mozart, US Marion, Empire City, Royal Items, ANYTHING! Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 Gold American, Cornell, California, Newark, Western, JG Hall, Nashua, Pitkin, New York Springfield, DD Palmer, Freeport, MS Smith, Hoyt, Allison, San Jose, Otay, KW Howard, Von der Heydt.... I will even buy accumulations - please contact Desmond Lundy, e-mail AWCI EVENING CLASSES IN fermenthaus@ shaw.ca CLOCK AND WATCH REPAIR WANTED WATCH BOXES American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute is offering weekly evening Buy- Sell - Trade classes (1 0 consecutive Wednesdays) in clock and watch repair. These will We want most major brands. Also buying high be basic instructional classes, loosely structured to adapt to the needs of end jewelry brand boxes. Doug Giard, 586- 774-3684 the students. Watch and clock classes will run simultaneously on Wednes day evenings from 6:00 pm to 9:00 pm at the training facilities at AWCI in Harrison, Ohio. Instructors: Laurie Penman, Clock Repair SERIOUS NATIONAL DEALER Tom Schomaker, CMW, Watch Repair $$$ BUYING WATCHES $$$ Schedule: Fall Session • Any old steel Rolex, regardless of condition September 1, 2004 - November 3, 2004 • Rolex parts - dials, bands, movements, crowns, buckles Location: AWCI Training Facility • Steel Milgauss, Daytona- Pay $8500 - $20,000 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030 • Submariner, GMT, Explorer- Pay $1000 - $3500 • UNCLAIMED REPAIRS -Anything Cost: $350 per 10-week session THE PRICES WE NOW PAY Registrants must be AWCI members HAVE NEVER BEEN HIGHER ($79 yearly membership) DON MEYER Tools and material costs are extra VINTAGE TIMEPIECES WORLDWIDE 12900 Preston Rd. #715, Dallas, TX 75230 For further information or to register for a class, contact Nancy Well mann, Education Phone Anytime: 972-392-4281, 1-800-833-3159 Coordinator 1-866-367-2924, ext. 303 or e-mail: [email protected] Fax: 972-392-4283 E-mail: [email protected] September 2004 • Horological Times 47 Advertisers' Index Borel & Co., Jules ...... 5 Frei & Borel ...... 29 Newall Manufacturing Company ...... 11 {816) 421-6110 (510) 832-0355 {800) 621-6296 Butterworth Clocks, Inc ...... 17 International Watch Collectors Society ...... 7 Primrose Supplies, Inc ...... 21 (800) 258-5418 {516) 374-5060 (801) 485-3908 Cas-Ker Co ...... inside back cover S. LaRose, Inc ...... 33 Smith Supply House ...... 39 (513) 674-7700 (336) 621-1936 {213) 622-1687 Chronos/WCR ...... 43 Lee's Group USA ...... 31 Twin City Supply ...... 37 {303) 296-1600 (864) 357-5683 (952) 545-2725 Clocks ...... 27 Livesay's, Inc ...... 19 Vibrograf U.S.A. Corp ...... 23 011 01 31 228 6638 {813) 229-2715 {516) 437-8700 Esslinger & Co ...... inside front cover Maxell Corp ...... back cover (651) 452-7180 (201) 794-5900 Ferrell & Company ...... 25 McCaw Co., William S...... 3 (213) 627-6031 (419) 243-3720 AWCI Employee Directory James E. Lubic, CMW Nancy L Wellmann Laurie Penman Executive Director Education Coordinator Clock Instructor Education & Technical Director 1-866-367-2924 ext. 303 1-866-367-2924 ext. 318 1-866-367-2924 ext. 310 nwellmann@ awi-net.org Ipenman@ awi-net.org [email protected] Sharon McManus Lucy Fuleki Membership Coordinator American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute Assistant Executive Director 1-866-367-2924 ext. 302 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030 1-866-367-2924 ext. 304 smcmanus@ awi-net.org Phone: Toll Free 1·866·367-2924 or (513) 367·9800 lfuleki@ awi-net.org Fax: (513) 367-1414 E-mail: [email protected] Mary Huff Web Site: www.awi-net.org Thomas J. Pack Shipping Coordinator Office Hours: Mon-Fri 8:00AM to 5:00 PM (EST) Finance Director 1-866-367-2924 ext. 305 Closed National Holidays 1-866-367-2924 ext. 311 mhuff@ awi-net.org tpack@ awi-net.org Heather Kyde Donna K. Baas Receptionist/Secretary Managing Editor/Advertising Manager 1-866-367-2924 ext. 301 1-866-367-2924 ext. 307 hkyde@ awi-net.org dbaas@ awi-net.org 48 Horologicallimes • September 2004 Cas-Ker is an authorized distributor of Genuine Omega Watch Material. 0 OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Dial Seamaster Professional Bezel 064PP3052001 Calibre 861/1861 082SU1361 900.051.14 ...... $90.00 900.051.10 ...... $140.00 ~ - -., ·-":..£ 16mm Buckle 1 j Yellow Gold Plated 94511601 lOmm Buckle 12mm Buckle 900.051.05 .... $12.00 Yellow Gold Plated Yellow Gold Plated Polished Stainless Steel 94511001 94511201 94511602 Seamaster Professional Clasp 900.051.01 .... $12.00 900.051.04 ... $12.00 900.051.06 .... $12.00 117ST1503825 Stainless Steel Stainless Steel Stainless Steel Brushed Stainless Steel 900.051.09 ...... $90.00 94511002 94511202 94511603 900.051.02 .... $12.00 900.051.03 ... $12.00 900.051.07 .... $12.00 Speedmaster Clasp Speedmaster Bracelet - 022ST1171 Stainless Steel - Includes End Pieces 026ST633 117ST1469811 Stainless Steel 900.051.15 ...... $89.95 900.051.08 ...... $28.00 We stock all available Omega crystals and movement parts and we can special order your band parts. CALL 1-800-487-0408 Cas·~&(f(o. FAX 1-800-487-5848 2550 CIVIC CENTER DR PO BOX 31167 LOCAL PHONE 513/674-7700 FAX 513/674-0600 CINCINNATI OH 45231-0167 Shop our web site: www. casker. com THOSE WHO PUT THEIR NAME ON THE OUTSIDE, PREFER 0 u R NAME ON THE INsIDE. 0 "'0 ~ QUALITY. INNOVATION. LONGEVITY. maxell THE WORLD LEADER IN MICRO BATTERY TECHNOLOGY