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Siren Song Think Greta Garbo. Not the reclusive one but the vamp version, camera-ready in spring’s high-glam lingerie looks. Here, Josie Natori’s embroidered silk satin slipgown under Dennis Basso’s nylon organza and chinchilla bed jacket. Badgley Mischka earrings; Barbara Flood’s Closet belt. For more, see pages 6 and 7. PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN Karstadt Keeps LIQUIDITY ISSUES Pushing Ahead HMX Under Pressure, By MELISSA DRIER Decision Expected Soon BERLIN — It’s action time at Karstadt. A triple-header of major store events has seen fielding unsolicited offers from po- the German department store chain taking rapid By JEAN E. PALMIERI tential bidders. Interested buyers in- strides towards modernizing and differentiating and VICKI M. YOUNG clude two brand management firms, its business as outlined in the “Karstadt 2015” Authentic Brands Group and Iconix strategic plan. Reflecting the group’s multitiered THE OTHER SHOE is about to drop for Brand Group, and private equity firm structure, the moves have been made on both HMX Group. Bluestar Alliance. upper and midmarket levels. The consistent mes- The company is running out of time In a bankruptcy scenario, sources sage, however, has been one of trading up and, to as liquidity constraints are forcing it to said one of those bidders would be some extent, cleaning out. decide as soon as this week whether to chosen as the “stalking horse” for Prior to the grand opening of KaDeWe’s new sell the firm or file for bankruptcy court the firm’s intellectual property as- Luxury Boulevard, the store’s revamped beauty protection. sets. Sources expect that, regardless department and the third-floor The Loft with a The liquidity constraints are due of whom becomes the final owner of 21,500-square-foot shoe salon, Karstadt chief ex- to a lack of funding from its corpo- HMX, Williams and Joseph Abboud, ecutive officer Andrew Jennings met with WWD in rate parent, Mumbai-based S. Kumars president and chief creative officer, Berlin to outline where the group is — and where Nationwide Ltd. would continue with the firm. Both are it’s going. Doug Williams, chief executive of- considered the driving force behind the Jennings has been at the Karstadt helm for 20 ficer, was traveling the past three days turnaround efforts at HMX and are re- months, brought in by investor Nicolas Berggruen, and could not be reached for comment. spected for the operational and design who rescued the group from Germany’s largest While not a done deal, financial and changes they’ve made at the company. postwar insolvency in 2010. “He hired me to repo- market sources said the likely scenar- Sources said the stalking horse was sition three businesses: the premium group [three io is that HMX will voluntarily file for likely to be Authentic Brands. The so- doors], the department store group [86 doors] and Chapter 11 bankruptcy court protection called stalking horse agreement in a the sports division,” Jennings said. for the second time in four years. bankruptcy proceeding typically sets SEE PAGE 8 Since midsummer, HMX has been SEE PAGE 12 2 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 15, 2012 WWD.COM Paris Prosecutor Examines Hermès Complaint THE BRIEFING BOX collusion and manipulating stock uity swaps that allowed it to cir- By JOELLE DIDERICH prices, according to a source famil- cumvent the usual market rules IN TODAY’S WWD iar with the issue. requiring firms to declare share PARIS — The Paris prosecu- LVMH in turn has filed a suit purchases. It has since raised its tor’s office has opened a prelimi- against Hermès for “slander, black- stake to 22.3 percent. nary inquiry into a complaint by mail and unfair competition.” French stock-market regulator Hermès International concern- Spokespeople for LVMH and AMF in November 2010 launched A still from Maje’s campaign video for fall. ing LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Hermès said they had no com- an investigation to determine if Vuitton’s acquisition of a portion ment on the report, which ap- LVMH respected market rules, of its capital, French media re- peared on the Web site of French which it plans to refer to its sanc- ported on Friday. business magazine Challenges. tions commission early next year. The probe will determine Officials at the Paris prosecutor’s The Paris prosecutor’s office whether the prosecutor drops the office were not immediately avail- has also asked the AMF to weigh in case or hands it over to an investi- able to comment. separately on Hermès’ complaint. gating judge. LVMH surprised markets by AMF president Gérard Rameix In its complaint, Hermès ac- revealing in October 2010 that it indicated in a recent TV interview cused the world’s largest luxury had amassed a 17.1 percent stake that he did not think the company’s conglomerate of insider trading, in Hermès via cash-settled eq- allegations were substantiated.

Allegra Hicks STEVE EICHNER

A Tribute to Sassoon PHOTO BY

LONDON — Creative figures from Barber Shop — one that his mother Liquidity constraints are forcing HMX Group to decide the hairdressing, fashion, art, ar- helped him to secure. as soon as this week whether to sell the firm or file for chitecture, film and design worlds “He was a lifetime ambassador bankruptcy court protection. PAGE 1 turned out in force on Friday for for his craft, and wore his celebrity a service at St. Paul’s Cathedral lightly and with enormous grace,” Three major store events have seen Karstadt taking rapid here to celebrate the life of the late said Puttnam. He added that de- strides toward modernizing and differentiating its business Vidal Sassoon, the go-getting and spite Sassoon’s talents and com- as outlined in its strategic plan. PAGE 1 gracious hairdresser whose life mercial success — including salons was marked by family, soccer and worldwide and branded hair-treat- Monique Lhuillier has opened a New York flagship 12 his pioneering five-point cut. ment products — “He retained that years after she opened her first store in Los Angeles, and a “His two favorite topics were very Sixties quality of not going second one four years after the one in Edina, Minn. PAGE 3 Chelsea soccer and beautiful into denial about his background.” women,” said his eldest son, Elan Irons said he met Sassoon “late Advanstar Fashion Group has tapped Tommy Fazio Sassoon, in a tribute that had the in life, sadly” but remembered president of its Project and Menswear shows, which crowd of 1,500 laughing and, later, “white hair and a pair of spectacles encompasses S.L.A.T.E., Street and Mens/Wear. PAGE 3 blinking away tears. “He was a concealing a boyish face. He was a great businessman, an honorable man who needed to win and who Movado Group Inc. is relaunching the upscale women’s husband, and always faced up to never grew old,” said Irons, before watch brand Ebel and adding a robust advertising campaign his fears.” reading aloud the A.E. Housman and e-commerce platform to its arsenal. PAGE 4 Other speakers and partici- poem “To an Athlete Dying Young.” pants at the hour-long service, Hadid admitted that Sassoon’s Mawi, hot off a 10-year anniversary celebration this which wove together elements of influence stretched as far as Arab-Israeli war as part of what summer, has introduced two new categories in the past the Jewish and Christian faiths, in- Baghdad, Iraq, where, as a teen- was to become the Israeli Defense month: handbags and men’s accessories. PAGE 4 cluded Jeremy Irons, Zaha Hadid, ager, she became inspired to cut Forces. He would later return to John Frieda and David Puttnam, her friends’ hair in the spirit of hairdressing in London, developing A coterie of Hollywood A-listers came out to amfAR’s Sassoon’s childhood friend and Sassoon. The experiment was not geometric, wash-and-wear styles — annual Inspiration Gala to honor Creative Artists Agency the producer of films, including a success, the architect admitted, radical for their time — including managing partner Kevin Huvane. PAGE 9 “Chariots of Fire.” but her admiration for Sassoon has the five-point bob famously worn by Among the guests were never died. Mary Quant. American Express Publishing chief executive officer Ed Michael Caine, who was inun- “I loved him for his modesty. He Elan Sassoon said his father’s Kelly announced Friday that Departures publisher Steven dated with autograph seekers on was a combination of pure genius mantra was “Get on with it!” and DeLuca, will add Travel + Leisure to his portfolio. PAGE 9 his way up the steps of St. Paul’s, and modesty, and that’s what made that he was a health freak, break- Peter Blake, Anish Kapoor, John him special,” she said. fasting daily on carrots, celery and An adorable crew of basketball and baseball offspring Pawson, Zandra Rhodes, Charles And while the service took apple juice; swimming a mile a day, walked the runway in front of their parents at a grand Worthington, David Sassoon, place in a Church of England land- and practicing Pilates. His love of opening celebration on Friday for Rookie USA. PAGE 11 Louise Wilson, Sue Webster, Ashley mark — Sir Christopher Wren’s English football knew no bounds, and Allegra Hicks and Sassoon’s domed cathedral — there was a and the younger Sassoon recalled Elin Kling talks about her five-year-old blog, Style by Kling, widow, Ronnie Sassoon. powerful sense of Sassoon’s roots his father waking him up at 5:00 fashion week and the print magazine, that she launched The London-born Sassoon, who and faith. “He was a proud Jew,” a.m. Los Angeles time on Saturdays last year, Style By. PAGE 11 lived in Los Angeles, died in May, said Rabbi Julia Neuberger, who to watch the Chelsea games. of leukemia, at 84. admitted to being a regular at one The British hairdresser Cotton Inc. has launched a new tool for the textile industry Puttnam remembered Sassoon of Sassoon’s London salons. “He Charles Worthington, a guest at called Cotton University, a free, online resource positioned as “uniquely comfortable in his wanted to make the world a better the service, said afterward that as part digital campus, part professional network. PAGE 12 own skin” — despite the fact that place. He had a tough start, and his Sassoon inspired him — and his family was poor and he had strong sense of Jewishness never countless others. “He was a bea- been placed in an orphanage as left him.” con for the industry — radical, ON WWD.COM a child after his father deserted In his youth, Sassoon was fa- brave, exciting and creative. And his mother. He also talked about mously a member of an under- he was interested in everything EYE: Maje feted its new advertising campaign starring Sassoon’s first job as a shampoo ground Jewish antifascist organi- and everybody around him.” Alexa Chung at the Hotel Americano in Chelsea. For more boy working at Cohen’s Beauty & zation, and he fought in the 1948 — SAMANTHA CONTI photos, see WWD.com/eye.

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PHOTOS BY SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. WWD monday, october 15, 2012 3 WWD.COM Tommy Fazio Named Lhuillier Opens First New York Store is on the ground level because lhuillier wants As Project Show Pres. By Jessica iredale it to be more accessible to the customer. it’s also “there has never been a a category she and Bugbee see as prime for the By david liPKe better time for men’s fash- Within five minutes of opening her first most growth. ion in america,” said florio. new York store — a two-story brownstone on When lhuillier launched in 1996, the busi- advanstar fashiOn GrOuP “however, america does not east 71st street — on Oct. 5, monique lhuillier ness was strictly bridal. she became one of the has tapped tommy fazio presi- have a place on the world’s made her first sale: a fur and lace jacket from top designers in the category thanks to her celeb- dent of its Project and menswear stage, as milan, Paris and her fall ready-to-wear collection. “hopefully it’s rity bridal clientele, including Britney spears, shows, which encompasses london do, to showcase our a sign of wonderful things who wore lhuillier to s.l.a.t.e., street and mens/ men’s designers. With tommy to come,” said lhuillier her 2004 wedding to Wear. fazio, who is exiting his on board, we hope to create on Wednesday, while Kevin federline. “i was role as men’s trend partnerships prepping for her fall 2013 doing a lot of red carpet Monique Lhuillier Opens First director at nordstrom that reestablish bridal show in her new at the time and people inc. to take the new men’s fashion York showroom. “the next started coming to trunk position, will re- week in new day we were completely shows and saying my port to tom florio, York and con- booked. We had 43 brides name right,” she said. “i New York Store chief executive of- tinue to create that had appointments think that was the turning ficer of advanstar new business for the second floor. so point.” fashion Group, a di- opportunities we feel like this is a good Bridal has been a solid

vision of advanstar for our commu- time for us to be here.” foundation for a flurry of communications inc. nity of retailers lhuillier has waited recent licenses, including fazio will depart and brands at patiently for a boutique in a capsule collection of eve- nordstrom on Oct. Project.” new York, where her flag- ning shoes, which launched 25 and his first day fazio joined ship comes 12 years after for spring with a broader at Project and the nordstrom last she opened her first store offer of boots and daytime

menswear shows s eptember, in los angeles, and a sec- styles for fall. lhuillier will be Oct. 29. he prior to which ond one four years after also recently announced will relocate from he was presi- the one in edina, minn. her first jewelry license seattle to be based Tommy dent of simon “We are very strategic (bridal and fashion pieces) out of advanstar’s Fazio spurr and men’s in how we grow, and we with Bluenile.com, which new York office. fashion director grow within our means,” launches this month. “if we “it’s such an exciting time at Bergdorf Goodman and later said lhuillier, who’’ owns have the right partner, we li- in men’s wear right now,” said neiman marcus Group. earlier the business with her cense,” said lhuillier of the fazio. “american designers in his career, he held sales po- husband tom Bugbee, the past year’s brokering. in ad- need the support of an orga- sitions at hickey freeman and company’s chief executive dition, she also has licenses nization like ours to unify the calvin Klein. officer. “there was never on tabletop, bridesmaids’ market and outreach on their nordstrom plans to name really a rush to [open the The store is housed in a two-story brownstone. dresses, stationery, home behalf. the opportunity to do so a new men’s trend director. new York store]. it’s just fragrance and ml monique with tom florio is an extraordi- “We’re grateful for tommy’s when it feels right.” lhuillier, a diffusion eveningwear collection. nary one.” many contributions to our lhuillier and Bugbee knew they wanted a Ye t rtw is a primary focus. “i feel like in fazio replaces andrew men’s wear business. he did space on the upper east side — “that’s where bridal we’re at the top of our game right now,” Pollard, who exited as presi- a great job and we wish him are our customer base is,” she said — and were she said. “With that market, there is room for dent of Project in may. Pollard much success in his new role,” close to signing a lease on a different spot in growth but i feel like we’ve kind of capped that. in June was named president of said david Witman, general new York in 2008, but issues arose with the i always want to be known for bridal — the core POP-market, an online business- merchandise manager for men’s landlord and they walked away. “tom said, ‘this of the company that started in there. But there’s to-business fashion marketplace. wear at nordstrom. doesn’t feel right,’” said lhuillier. a few days just so much more. the customer gets married later, Bear stearns went under. once in her life. i want her to think of monique lhuillier multiple times a year, to come in if she just wants something special.” People started coming now that the doors to the new York store Alfred Dunhill Taps Poletto are open, lhuillier and Bugbee are looking for lOndOn — alfred dunhill, of richemont fashion and more real estate in the Philippines, where the the compagnie financière accessories, joins dunhill from to trunk shows and designer is from, and hong Kong. leases have richemont-owned luxury men’s furla, where he has served as not yet been signed but they’re in the works. wear and leather-goods label, ceo. Prior to that appointment, saying my name right. establishing her own store network is key to has named eraldo Poletto as Poletto also held a number of the company’s expansion. “a lot of department chief executive officer, the firm roles at retail Brand alliance, I think that was the stores or specialty boutiques that carry me buy announced today. including president of strategic me for wedding gowns or just solely evening Poletto’s appointment is effec- development and international gowns,” said lhuillier. “We really feel like the tive as of nov. 5, and he replaces business and global chief mer- turning point. future for us is the ready-to-wear collection and christopher colfer in the role. as chandising officer at Brooks housing the entire thing in our stores. now the reported earlier this month, colfer Brothers international inc. — Monique LhuiLLier customer has access to all of it.” stepped down as ceo of alfred Wikstrom said of Poletto’s ap- dunhill after seven years to take pointment: “eraldo brings with they started scouting again in 2010 and found up a group position at compagnie him a distinguished career in the current location, which initially was lim- financière richemont. men’s wear and leather goods, ited to the ground floor, formerly occupied by Poletto, who will re- with expertise in merchandising sigerson morrison. the second-floor gallery be- IANNACCONE port to marty Wikstrom, ceo and retail.” — NINA JoNEs came available soon after, followed by a one-bed- room apartment also on the second floor, which is how lhuillier ended up with the 3,000-square- THOMAS Obituary foot townhouse in which all of the label’s collec- BY tions — rtw, bridal, tabletop, shoes and chande- liers done with Waterford — are housed. PHOTOS Aron Goldfarb, G-III Founder designed with a+i architecture, the space has been restored to its original’’ high ceilings neW YOrK — aron Goldfarb, a served in the israeli army. and outfitted with an open staircase framed by holocaust survivor and founder Goldfarb came to the u.s. 22-foot-high glass walls. lhuillier worked with of G-iii apparel Group, died on in 1956 and founded G&n interior designer Jennie abbott, who also de- Oct. 8 following a long illness. sportswear. his son morris joined signed lhuillier’s los angeles home and store. he was 88. the company, now called G-iii her signature gray color scheme is consistent Born feb. 10, 1924, in apparel Group, in 1972 and serves across all stores. Bialobrzegi, Poland, Goldfarb’s as its chief executive officer. in new York there are gray suede walls, family got caught up in the hor- G-iii is a leading designer chairs from the sixties and seventies cov- rors of the holocaust, and he and manufacturer of outerwear, ered in gray velvet and banquettes. artwork later wrote a book about his dresses, women’s suits and includes pieces by hervé van der straeten, struggle and time spent in the sportswear, as well as handbags daniel Gluck, neal small, nancy lorenz and treblinka concentration camp. and luggage for brands such as two commissioned pieces by new York sculptor Goldfarb escaped the camp calvin Klein, tommy hilfiger, silas seandel. from the ceilings hang monique and survived the war, living in Jessica simpson, vince camuto, lhuillier Waterford chandeliers designed with a bunker not far from a German andrew marc and Guess, with tiers of multifaceted crystal baguettes to imitate gunnery position near his home- sales of $1.2 billion in the fiscal the layers of fabric and beadwork of her gowns. town. While in a displaced-per- year ended Jan. 31. the first floor houses rtw, with the bridal sons camp in Germany following Goldfarb is survived by his salon upstairs. lhuillier said having everything the end of the war, Goldfarb saw wife, esther; sons morris and under one roof was the idea from the beginning, esther disman and immediately ira; grandchildren laura, Jeffrey, although if they couldn’t find a space to accom- asked her to a movie. they were scott, samantha and Brett, and modate both collections, they were open to sep- Monique Lhuillier inside soon married and moved to israel, six great-grandchildren. arating them, as other designers with big bridal her Manhattan flagship. where Goldfarb was a farmer and — ARTHUR FRIEDMAN businesses such as vera Wang have done. rtw

w15a003a.indd 3 10/14/12 2:28 PM 10142012143011 4 WWD monday, october 15, 2012 WWD.COM accessories

Ebel Elevates Collection, Takes to the Web

With the introduction of the X1, By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD a sporty flagship model, and the luxe collection called the Onde EIGhT yEARS AfTER it bought (which means “wave” in french), Ebel, Movado Group Inc. is re- Ebel expects the second-half of launching the upscale women’s 2012 to experience 20 percent watch brand and adding a robust ’’ growth over last year. advertising campaign and e-com- founded in La Chaux-de-fonds, merce platform to its arsenal. Switzerland, the Paramus, N.J.-based Two new collections, as well as Movado, has a robust licensing busi- the new Web site and ad push, will ness, making watches for the likes of hit the market on Oct. 15. Coach, Tommy hilfiger, Lacoste and While plans to revamp the hugo Boss. Although the firm doesn’t women’s watch line have been break down financials by brand, it in the pipeline for some time, posted $32 million in net income on Movado has been waiting for the sales of $468.1 million in 2011. A year right time to introduce the collec- earlier, Movado had registered a net tions, according to Movado Group loss of $44.9 million on sales of $382.2 Ebel’s updated homepage. chairman and chief executive offi- million. That reversal of fortune was cer Efraim Grinberg. due in part to the introduction of the wide merchandising director Karen Bradbury, said Ebel “These watches are geared to- Movado Bold collection last year. is going full-force to attract women as primary shoppers wards a younger, more fashion- A gold Ebel Onde watch. Now the company is setting its of the brand. While targeting women for a women’s brand conscious consumer,” Grinberg sights on making over Ebel. may seem like a no brainer, some watch brands tend to ap- said from the company’s bright and According to Movado, Ebel’s X1 proach the consumer by also appealing to their significant tidy offices in New york. We wanted line is a “dressier” women’s sports other, usually her husband, who will buy a watch as a gift for “Ebel is one of the only brands watch, which includes a chrono- his wife. Watch brands also tend to use famous athletes or founded by women,” he noted, graph with diamond bezels, mother- brand ambassadors to appeal to the consumer. Ebel is using motioning to the back of the room to freshen-up of-pearl dials and white ceramic and an unknown model and focusing instead on messaging. where the shiny, new collections rose gold bracelets. Onde is a more “We didn’t want to use a spokesperson,” said Leach, were on display. “We’ve involved a the brand. The classic collection that is an updated who underscored that the hope is that Ebel will be viewed lot of women in the design process.” version of Ebel’s signature look. as a self-purchase for female consumers. “The muse is a founded in 1911 by Eugene recession has been While the dials tend to be larger modern, chic woman from a psychographic standpoint.” Blum and Alice Levy, Ebel was ac- and include different designs on the According to Bradbury, the campaign, whose tag line is quired by LVMh Moët hennessy watch face, Onde incorporates a tra- “for Me,” concentrates on the individual, not a personality. Louis Vuitton in 1999 and then sold an opportunity to ditional aesthetic using diamonds, “It’s really a 360-degree approach,” she said, point- to Movado in 2004 for $47.3 million gold and steel. Both collections have ing to the brand’s e-commerce rollout in the fall, as well in cash. Since that acquisition, how- innovate and evolve. six models, respectively. as October’s print and digital campaigns. ever, Ebel’s design has remained Targeting women ages 25 years With the addition of X1 and Onde, Ebel will have five traditional and somewhat staid. — Efraim GrinbErG, and up, Ebel is gunning to scoop collections in total. It will develop its men’s timepieces “We got a little complacent and mOVaDO GrOup inc. up market share from competitors down the line. Currently, women’s watches make up 80 a little boring,” Grinberg admit- such as Cartier and Chanel, accord- percent of Ebel’s offering, with the other 20 percent de- ted. “We wanted to freshen-up the ing to Grinberg, who said the collec- voted to men’s timepieces. Grinberg said Movado also brand. The recession has been an opportunity to inno- tions start at $2,500 and can reach up to $28,500. Typically, hopes to introduce more men’s product that, like the vate and evolve.” Ebel’s price range spans from $1,800 to $60,000, while women’s watches, will focus more on fashion than on Part of that evolution has been modernizing the Movado watches hover in the $500 to $2,000 range. The technical capabilities such as souped up movements. brand to include different materials such as ceramic sweet spot for Ebel’s new collections will reside around “We’re very focused on design and the feel of the and rose gold, while also riffing on Ebel’s “wave” de- $4,000 to $5,000, which the ceo calls “accessible luxury.” product, not complications,” Grinberg said of Ebel’s up- sign, which refers to the shape of the metal bands in the Grinberg, along with Movado chief marketing officer dated look. “Postrecession, we’re looking to innovate by watches’ bracelets. Mary’’ Leach and president of Ebel Americas and world- amplifying its design quotient.” Men’s Line, Handbags to Propel Mawi the market was right at the time. By RAChEL STRuGATz “What we were doing was too fashion. Although we got tons of press, it was dif- A necklace from Mawi — hot off a 10-year anniversary cel- ficult to introduce into the market. In the Mawi’s spring ebration this summer — has introduced last five to six years, the men’s market has collection. two new categories in the past month: really changed and men are much more handbags and men’s accessories. open to accessorizing. We were very early, The line, known for richly colored and we took a step back to relaunch when crystals paired with spikes or panthers, it was right,” Keivom said. “There’s a huge has seen healthy organic growth the demand for it — and by waiting and look- past decade, founder and designer Mawi ing at what men’s needs are and doing a Keivom said, but the year ahead will be lot of research, the product has changed.” an important one for the brand. A very “punky” rock ’n’ roll approach Distribution has seen a 25 percent Mawi’s Perspex clutch. gave way to a more streamlined selection increase, according to cofounder and of signet rings, cuff links, bracelets and Keivom’s husband, Tim Awan, who Brazil, and anticipate opening the first necklaces fashioned from gunmetal with noted that the line will go from 120 franchise in the next six months. This is dark crystal detailing that retail from doors in 70 countries this season in addition to our existing joint ven- $300 to $800. to about 150 doors for spring ture in Porto Montenegro,” Awan Keivom sees an opportunity in men’s deliveries. The brand is al- said of the global strategy, “because women’s [jewelry] is so saturat- ready carried at harrods, adding that although Europe ed” and intends to concentrate on growing harvey Nichols and and the Middle East are the this portion of the business. Within a few Selfridges. Awan also largest markets for the line, years, she anticipates that Sir by Mawi can projects 40 to 50 percent Korea, Eastern Europe, South comprise 30 to 40 percent of the business. “Pink is the navy blue of India. how growth on overall volume America and Australia are the A capsule collection of 12 handbags can I possibly be minimal?” she said. for 2013 due to the addition fastest growing. made its debut during London fashion “We’ve never been about minimal — ev- of the new categories. A fully realized men’s accesso- Week in September for spring. The Perspex erything but the kitchen sink has been Mawi’s first flagship ries collection, Sir by Mawi, re- silver glitter clutch with pink spikes retails thrown in there. It’s a juxtaposition of so opened in Shoreditch in launched exclusively with Lane for $778 and more elaborate versions can many elements, but the overall look that East London last year, and A Sir by Mawi ring. Crawford last week, and Keivom go for up to $1,200 — but the focus is always we do is clean and strong.” the brand has plans to pen- calls the 15-piece collection on incorporating jewelry elements. She does, however, want to keep the etrate emerging markets in the spring. “very clean” and based on traditional for Indian-born Keivom, working with direction really niche, likening the ap- “We are currently talking to franchise men’s jewelry. The brand tried its hand a lot of vibrant colors and embellish- proach to what Judith Leiber has done partners in Russia, the Middle East and at men’s several years ago but didn’t feel ments is innate. for evening bags.

w15a004a.indd 4 10/12/12 6:57 PM 10122012185825

6 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 15, 2012 The Lady Is aVamp Old Hollywood films and their femme-fatale stars never dim. And when it comes to lingerie, what could be more inspiring than Twenties cinema? Flora Nikrooz’s polyester and French lace gown. Badgley Mischka earrings.

Christine Vancouver’s silk and lace gown over Fleur of England’s silk gown. Lulu Frost earrings; Manolo Blahnik shoes.

Myla London’s silk polyamide and lace gown. Barbara Flood’s Closet earrings.

Mary Green’s silk and lace nightgown. Barbara Flood’s Closet earrings; Ben-Amun bracelet. WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 15, 2012 7 WWD.COM

Between the Sheets’ silk chiffon dressing robe over Only Hearts’ nylon and spandex slip. Barbara Flood’s Closet hair clip, ring and brooch.

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w15a006(7)a.indd 7 10/12/12 6:23 PM 10122012182452 88 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 15, 2012 Jennings Pushing Karstadt to the Next LevelWWD.COM

{Continued from page one} Simpson, Juicy Couture, Penny Black, While the core department stores Rachel Rachel Roy, Ted Baker and clearly required the most attention, even Wallis to a new easy-to-navigate and un- the group’s jewel — the premium flagship cluttered sales floor setup. KaDeWe — needed to sharpen its profile. “It’s about clarity, space and ed- “If you don’t stand for something, you iting,” Jennings said. Plus making stand for nothing,” Jennings declared. some “big statements and stories” The second-largest department store in as provided by concession partners, Europe, “KaDeWe has an unbelievable loca- which include Gerard Darel, French tion and great traffic flow with 200,000 peo- Connection, New Look, Karen Millen, ple coming through the doors weekly,” he Phase Eight and Reiss. At the same said. Despite a 2004 upgrade that installed time, Karstadt is further developing and a boulevard of luxury accessories shop, he updating its own brands such as Adagio, contended, “It was still a provincial store. currently a 60 million euros, or $78 mil- Our focus now is to be international.” lion at current exchange, business that Making KaDeWe the shoe destination Jennings said could grow to about 100 “not only in Berlin but in Germany,” was a million euros, or $129.6 million. top priority for Jennings, who introduced The ceo’s map for the next few years Saks Fifth Avenue’s eighth-floor shoe de- sees 10 national Karstadt stores going partment during his tenure there. Points more upmarket, the rest residing midmar- of reference were Barneys New York, ket. “But over time, there could be 30 up- Selfridges and Harrods. While the business market stores like this [Berlin Ku’damm] in Berlin might not be as large as those ex- appealing to a modern customer.” amples, KaDeWe’s new footwear setup is Chanel’s counter at KaDeWe. The second K Town, Karstadt’s young uncommonly spacious in design, and takes fashion lifestyle store-in-store for- up more than 30 percent of The Loft, as Anya Hindmarch, Loewe, Kate Spade (anoth- by about 1,075 square feet, but gained mat, opened in Cologne in September. KaDeWe’s entire third floor is now called. er German exclusive) and Victoria Beckham, a host of new luxury and niche brands, The pilot was introduced in Göttingen Miu Miu, Prada, Ferragamo, Tory Burch, among many other labels. Also to be found many exclusive, and 80 counters got new last year. The new 21,500-square-foot Mulberry, Dior, Chloé, Jimmy Choo and Yves on the floor: a concentrated lingerie as- furnishings. Some notable newcomers: K-Town is housed on the main floor of Saint Laurent are among the brands whose sortment, including a new shop from Agent By Kilian, Byredo, Agonist and Blood the Cologne Karstadt, and indicative boutiques create an airy network of individu- Provocateur, and high-end children’s wear. Concept fragrances; Bare Mineral, Eve of the group’s directional changes, re- alized living room environments. Diane von Long a work in progress, KaDeWe’s main Lom and By Terry skin care; Deborah places the floor’s former bargain cen- Furstenberg, Kurt Geiger (a German exclu- floor has been fully upgraded, the traffic flow Lippmann and Spa Ritual, and premium ter and stationery departments. “It’s sive), Repetto, Unützer, and Fendi are among streamlined in the process. Joining shops hair care brands Philip B. Truffle by our answer to Barneys Co-Op, but at a the other new shoe collections introduced at from Bulgari, Chopard, Gucci, Hermès, Fuente and MiriamQuevedo. different price point,” Jennings said. KaDeWe this season, and also in the pipeline Montblanc, Omega, Prada, Rolex, Tiffany The main focal points, however, are Featured brands, many of them unique are Giuseppe Zanotti, Rachel Zoe, United and Wellendorff on the 43,000-square-foot the first (and only) full Tom Ford cos- to this store, include Republic, Blue Ink, Nude and Nine West, to name a few. “I think Luxury Boulevard are refurbished and, metics counter in Germany, and Chanel One Green Elephant, Gestuz, G-Star and we’ll quadruple our shoe business. We will be in some cases, expanded spaces from and Dior’s mega-counters, each with a Scotch & Soda, plus accessories from a force to be reckoned with,” Jennings said. Chanel, Dior, Fendi, Louis Vuitton, Miu gross floor space of 1,200 square feet. Pieces, Liebeskind, George, Gina & Lucy, Handbags are The Loft’s second main Miu and Tod’s, plus new entries by Celine, Located adjacent to their brand’s shops and Lacoste, Camper and Ugg shoes. emphasis, with shops from Aigner, Burberry, Longchamp, Vertu and Yves Saint Laurent. in the Luxury Boulevard, they provide a Jennings can envision rolling out an- Chloé, MCM, Michael Kors and Ferragamo, The 32,400-square-foot beauty depart- fluid segue between beauty and fashion. other three K-Towns next year, and a as well as selections from Alexander Wang, ment was rearranged and slimmed down KaDeWe has renovated over 172,000 total of 10 in the next decade. “And if it square feet of floor space in 40 weeks, has legs, we could probably do 30 in our and there’s more to come. Karstadt stores across Germany. I intend to own hasn’t released sales figures since the

insolvency proceedings, but Jennings acknowledged, “We’re absolutely making money there [at KaDeWe]. Premium is a major focus for Nicolas [Berggruen], and ON-DEMAND the rumors about selling off the [premi- um] business are totally incorrect.” In the next ·· two years, KaDeWe’s women’s and men’s departments will be revamped. “We’ll be bringing fashion to a VIDEO new level, looking at brands like Donna Karan, Armani Black Label, Caroline Herrera, and will probably edit out some lower brands,” he said. In men’s, WWDSourcing12.FORA.tv Jennings aims to add Ralph Lauren Purple Label and Ermenegildo Zegna. New brands already added include The Kooples, Rena Lange, Rag & Bone, Helmut Lang, Theory and Alexander Wang in women’s, and Bruno Cucinelli, Etro, Porsche Design, Ted Baker, Drykorn, The boulevard of luxury. Stone Island and Closed for men. this segment of the market,” he said. To get the word out, Karstadt is making use of all social media, viral marketing, asso- If you don’t stand for ciations with universities, in-store DJs, a coffee shop and is establishing a K Town something, you stand club with a specific app, he said. Karstadt.de has also gotten a make- over. “Our e-business is small, but we’re NEW BALANCE HANESBRANDS INC. EILEEN FISHER INC. KELLWOOD COMPANY for nothing. Gabriella Wortmann Jerry Cook Amy Hall Luciana Marsicano working on it,” he said. “We used to — ANDREW JENNINGS, focus on washing machines. Now it’s fashion, jewelry and modern living.” KARSTADT Last in the Karstadt equation: active sportswear at Karstadt Sports, where The store’s famous food department two new stores in prime locations in will also be upgraded, as well as the Kiel and Cologne are in the works. rooftop restaurant, and Karstadt’s pre- “What we do in our [26] freestanding mium door in Hamburg, Alsterhaus, stores is good,” Jennings said, “but we will be getting a revamp in 2013. need to get it to great,” adding Karstadt is Gl bal Regarding the 83-door Karstadt divi- reviewing a strategy to “literally pole vault sion, 30 stores have been refurbished the sports business to another level.” S o u r c i n G to date, and this week, the Düsseldorf Though he couldn’t reveal details, branch will reopen as the chain’s model he said a stepped-up use of technology LEADINg tHROugH CHANgE store. As reported, Jennings gathered to- and more benchmarks would be key, as gether some 50 new international labels would raising service levels and exper- to update and distinguish the chain’s tise. “Come learn how to surf or ski, and brand portfolio, both in-store and on- if you’re a runner, [get] a full assessment line. Selected stores, including·· Berlin through an assessment center we’re look- Kurfürstendamm, linked fall’s multiple ing at,” he said. “[Karstadt Sports] needs debuts from brands such as Andrew to become a haven for sports fanatics.” USE CODE 12SOURCING FOR 20% OFF Marc, Calvin Klein Jeans, Denim & — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS Supply, In Wear, Jessica Howard, Jessica FROM SUSAN STONE Face Time: alexa chung talks about her role in the new maje campaign. WWD STYLE Page 10 MeMo pad

leiSUre Time FOr DelUca: What do you give the publisher on a two-year hot streak? At American Express Publishing, he gets a promotion. Chief executive In Good officer ed Kelly announced Friday he’d created a new position for Departures publisher Steven Deluca, senior vice president, that adds Travel + Leisure to his portfolio. Company That brings the number of magazines under DeLuca’s watch to three. He also oversees Black A coterie of Hollywood A-listers, Ink, Amex’s biannual magazine for Centurion cardholders. including a Prabal Gurung-clad T+L, a middle-market sister Kate Hudson, came out to amfAR’s to the more posh Departures, lost its publisher, J.P. Kyrillos, in August. annual Inspiration Gala to honor Jay meyer, Food & Wine’s associate Creative Artists Agency managing publisher, has been kicked up as Kyrillos’ replacement, reporting partner and AIDS research to DeLuca. Departures is a 23-year-old proponent Kevin Huvane. magazine, but has grown as luxury For more, see page 10. advertisers have doubled down on their spending in recent years. Since DeLuca got to the magazine in 2010, ad pages have increased 44 percent, according to in-house figures and Media Industry Newsletter. The magazine is up 20 percent in ad revenue in the first half of the year, after reporting a 45 percent increase in 2011, according to Amex. In September, Departures also announced it increased its rate base to 900,000, up from the 840,000 it guaranteed advertisers in 2010. DeLuca’s two-year run has coincided with more competition in the luxury market, as new and revived titles like ForbesLife, Bloomberg Pursuits, and DuJour have all tried to muscle in on Departures’ turf. With Dow Jones’ WSJ. magazine and The New York Times’ T: The New York Times Style Magazine gearing up for major changes, the race for those premium ad dollars will only get more heated. — eriK maza

TraDe TalKS: Joanna coles and anne Fulenwider are spending their first months at their new magazines playing a game of swap-the-editor. Coles is grabbing three staffers from her old team at Marie Claire for Cosmopolitan: site director abby gardner, executive editor Joyce chang and entertainment director Dana Stern-Schwartz. Coles must have taken a quick liking to Chang — the former deputy editor at People StyleWatch had only been at MC for a little more than a year. Meanwhile, Fulenwider is taking Tracy Shaffer, who booked many of Cosmo’s celebrity covers, to replace Schwartz as entertainment director. And riza cruz, a senior editor at Vogue, is the magazine’s new executive editor. lea goldman, who’d been MC’s features director, will now also oversee the ad-boosting quarterly supplement @Work, which added 20 pages of ads to its September issue. Both EICs will PHOTO BY DOnaTO SarDella make their debut atop their new mastheads in December. — e.m.

w15a009a.indd 1 10/12/12 7:18 PM 10122012191942 10 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 15, 2012 A still from Maje’s fall ad campaign video. STEVE EICHNER

Pretty Maje PHOTOS BY FRONTING AN ad campaign the accompanying photography is nothing new for Alexa Chung. lensed by Glen Luchford), Chung The television-host-slash-DJ- meanders blithely through a slash-model has done turns for subway car parked in the Porte a number of brands in recent des Lilas station in Paris. “It was years (Superga, Pepe Jeans, shot in this closed-off subway. It Vero Moda, among them), but for was actually quite creepy down Chung, it’s still a bit odd seeing there at that hour,” Chung, in a herself in the role. “I’m such cherry-red silk blouse and black a poser,” Chung said between tuxedo trousers, said. “We shot drags of her cigarette on the it very early, like crack-of-dawn back patio of Chelsea’s Hotel type sh-t.” Americano on Thursday night. Later, guests began amassing The Brit was there to fete Maje, around the stage stationed at the the latest brand to enlist her back of the bar where alt-folk for their advertising campaign. sibling duo Wild Belle was about “It looks a bit like a ‘SNL’ spoof, to take the stage. Ombré-locked eye doesn’t it?,” she asked. lead singer Natalie Bergman began Partygoers lingered at the to croon, and Chung got the entrance to take in the black-and- dance party started while her white campaign video — which Strokes guitarist beau, Albert looked nothing like a “Saturday Hammond Jr., chatted with friends Night Live” spoof — projected on nearby. Chung took to Twitter to the wall of the sleekly outfitted convey her sentiments: “party in Hilary Rhoda Wild Belle performing. hotel bar. In the video (along with full swing!” — TAYLOR HARRIS

Albert Hammond Jr.

Rose Sarah Jessica McGowan in Parker in vintage Jerome C. Chanel with Change Agent Rousseau. Kenneth Cole. WHILE AMFAR’S annual conversation at your dinner Inspiration Gala is parties, at restaurants with traditionally a boys’ night out, your kids. Remind them that one man managed to draw the Eighties and Nineties leading ladies such as Sarah were not that long ago, as Jessica Parker, Kate Hudson and hard as that might be for Octavia Spencer to the event. them to believe.” Creative Artists Agency The evening, held at managing partner and AIDS Hollywood’s Milk Studios, research advocate Kevin Huvane was presented by MAC Viva was honored with the Piaget Glam and featured sports- Award of Inspiration for his inspired fashion presentations longtime commitment to the from Thom Browne, Hugo organization, and, naturally, Boss and Tumi. Beth Behrs, his A-list Rolodex entries Alessandra Ambrosio, amfAR attended, as host Chelsea chairman Kenneth Cole, Jennifer Handler put it, “to honor the Coolidge, Rose McGowan, Mark man whose calendar knows Salling and Rumer Willis were Rumer Willis in more beautiful women than among the attendees. Alice + Olivia. FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE anybody and [who] has no idea Of course, it was Katy what to do with it.” Perry who got the crowd WWD.com/eye. Parker presented the revved up before she even Katy Perry in Alessandra Shaun White award to her agent of 26 set foot onstage. For the live Naeem Khan. Ambrosio years. “I don’t know who auction, the singer donated in Zuhair turned it down first, but I’m an autographed guitar with Murad. really tickled,” she teased, a bonus. “I will take you and later telling the crowd: “I’m your friend out for one night at his oldest client. I mean, the Abbey!” she called out from not his oldest client, but.…” the audience, referencing one (Huvane clarified that she of West Hollywood’s legendary was his first client.) She was in gay bars. The package sold for good company. Friends $32,000 — contributing to the who couldn’t attend (Tom $1.3 million raised at the event. Cruise, Keanu Reeves, Nicole Perry kept the party going Kidman) paid tribute via with a five-song set (her third heartfelt and humorous videos in one week after performing (one featured Julia Roberts and at the Hammer Gala Saturday Meryl Streep singing to him), and the Obama fund-raiser which prompted Huvane to Sunday) that included hits joke, “I hope they got SAG “Firework” and “Teenage scale for that.” Dream.” As she looked out at On a more serious note, Huvane, she teased, “I even SARDELLA DONATO Huvane told the crowd, missed a Madonna concert for “Please, make the cure for you. I know everybody thought HIV/AIDS part of your every- about that, right?” PHOTOS BY day conversation. Have that — LINDZI SCHARF WWD Monday, october 15, 2012 11 WWD.COM

Q & A Elin Kling in an ad Fashion scoops for the new line. CHILD’S PLAY: An adorable crew of under the law to other employees. Elin Kling basketball and baseball offspring Nordstrom also said that he believes walked the runway in front of supporting gay rights will help make MODeL-TURNeD-blogger-turned-fashion- their cheering parents at a grand the store a more attractive place to editor elin Kling’s latest project is a cloth- opening celebration on Friday for work, draw additional talent and ing line with Marciano. Called elin Kling Rookie USA, a new 5,500-square- possibly bring in new customers, for Marciano, it launches online Oct. 22 foot children’s athletic apparel and though it also could alienate some and hit stores worldwide Nov. 1. The 34- footwear store on Manhattan’s Upper consumers who oppose gay and les- piece collection retails from $58 for a West Side opened by The Haddad bian marriage. T-shirt to $898 for leather pants, and is Apparel Group Ltd. Sashaying The Seattle-based Nordstrom has a Kling’s second design project (her first down the catwalk in various states history of supporting gay and lesbian was with H&M in 2011). The line is based of bravura and shyness were the employees with its antidiscrimination on her personal style, which Kling calls children of Carmelo and LaLa Anthony, policies and by extending benefits to “typical Scandanavian,” even though she Amar’e Stoudemire and Alexis Welch, and life partners. — DAVID MOIn has lived in New York for the past year Tyson and Kimberly Chandler. and a half. Kling talked to WWD about her “My oldest two did a phenomenal STEWArT TAKES OVEr: Martha five-year-old blog, Style by Kling, fashion job. My youngest was a little nervous Stewart is transforming Grand week and the print magazine, Style By, but that’s to be expected,” said Central Terminal into an event that she launched last year. Stoudemire, a veteran of New York hall on Wednesday and Thursday — Rachel StRugatz Fashion Week shows. “It’s their first celebrating “American Made” artists, show. It’s awesome.” artisans and small entrepreneurs WWD: Describe the collection in engaged in fashion, three sentences. with producing my magazine. It takes so food, gardening, crafts Elin Kling: I would say it’s wearable. It’s a col- long, and it’s so much work and it’s such and technology. As part lection 100 percent made by my instincts a good feeling when I get the new issue. of the two-day blitz of because I never had time to overthink any- Besides that, the blog has been impor- activities, Calvin Klein, thing — you know, to not actually think it tant. I can always talk with my readers steve eichner who rarely speaks through two or three of four times. I only about the projects I’m working on, and I publicly, will join J. had two days to do the first 14 sketches. like that you can have a direct connection Crew’s Mickey Drexler, with readers. photo by Diane von Furstenberg, WWD: What’s your favorite piece? ralph rucci and Tor y E.K.: The maxidress. It goes right below WWD: Is there a kind of project that you Burch on a panel the knees, and it has mesh detailing on the would never take on? themed “The Masters front, back and sides. It’s sophisticated. E.K.: Yes. I would never do anything that of American Fashion” I don’t feel strongly about. I wouldn’t do moderated by Stewart, WWD: What are you doing when you’re something just for the money — unless on Wednesday in Grand not blogging? it was a lot of money [laughs]. I’m very LaLa and Carmelo Anthony Central’s Vanderbilt E.K.: I run my own paper magazine called involved in everything I do. It might be Hall, at 9:30 am. Style By. It comes out eight times a year. It’s tricky to work with me sometimes because These individuals doing great. It’s my little baby. It has a staff I want to be involved in every step. Derek Jeter’s nephew Jalen walked are expected to discuss having U.S. of five, four of them in Sweden — so there’s in the show, but Jeter himself was based-companies with products a lot of Skype in my life. I am working on a WWD: What’s been your best purchase so absent due to the fifth game of the designed in America though to a new project, but I can’t share it yet. far for the fall season? Yankees’ American League Division great extent manufactured abroad. E.K.: I bought this washed-out black sleeve- series against the Orioles that night. American Made is open to the WWD: How has your style evolved since be- less vest by Wayne at Barneys that you can Teammate C.C. Sabathia, who was the public and will include master coming a blogger? also zip and wear it as a top. I’m [also] on starting pitcher in the game, was classes, seminars, symposiums, E.K.: I can look back in my archives from the hunt for perfect ankle boots with a heel also a few miles north at Yankee panel discussions, even a yoga class. two weeks ago and think, “What was I that I can walk in. Stadium as his kids worked their The kickoff is Tuesday evening in wearing?” But I’ve always had this denim Nike, Jordan, Converse and Levi’s Vanderbilt Hall with Stewart, Mayor girl, minimalistic, typical Scandinavian WWD: What were your top favorite shows looks on the runway. Michael Bloomberg and television style. even if I try and add a little more from fashion week? The Haddad Apparel Group is personality Willie geist. — D.M. fun to it, I’ve always had a simple style. E.K: Phillip Lim, Balmain was very here the children’s apparel licensee for and now, and Acne — I’ve really been fol- those four brands, among others. JEnnEr gIrLS In JunIOrS FASHIOn: WWD: What’s your favorite part of the job? lowing their journey and it’s so fun to see The company opened Rookie USA Watch out, Kim, Kourtney and Khloé E.K.: There is definitely a special feeling where they’re going. at 808 Columbus Avenue in August, Kardashian. Little sisters Kendall and along with locations in Beijing, Kylie Jenner are breaking into teen Shanghai and Melbourne, Australia. fashion with a line to be produced “We felt that there was nobody doing under license by Canada’s Majestic an exclusive, premium shopping Mills. Launching for spring experience for kids,” said Sam with T-shirts, pants, shorts and Haddad, a principal at the family- accessories, the deal is the first foray owned company. The store features into the juniors world for Montreal- photo booths, a virtual basketball based Majestic, a textile and apparel For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. court, video games and a projected manufacturer that also holds the hologram image of Carmelo Anthony licenses for House of Harlow 1960 that explains the store’s interactive by nicole richie and Heidi Klum for New features to shoppers. — DAVID LIPKE Balance. The venture also helps the teenaged Jenners catch up in the Spaces BuCCELLATI EYEIng CLESSIDrA: fashion business with their older Following a speculative report in Kardashian half-siblings, who have COMMERCIAL Italy’s weekly magazine Il Mondo on sold their branded fashion at Sears REAL ESTATE PATTERNS, SAMPLES, BUYER/ASSISTANT BUYER Friday, Milan-based private equity and QVC. — KHAnH T.L. TrAn PRODUCTIONS For privately owned fashion retailer firm Clessidra SGR SpA confirmed Full service shop to the trade. headquartered in Minneapolis, MN Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 catering to women, men and juniors it is in talks with Buccellati Group STArrY nIgHT: Fashion Group selling apparel and accessories with a focus on fast fashion and trend. BA in to acquire a stake in the high- International’s Oct. 25 Night of Stars Fashion or Marketing. 2+ yrs exp in: end fine jeweler and watchmaker. gala will live up to its name this year buying, corporate retail, fashion indus- Showrooms & Lofts try. Strong comm skills, knowledge of While a Clessidra spokesman did as details of the presenters have BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS MS Office, ability to travel 25% of time. Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Competitive salary, benefits, bonuses. not provide any details on the started to emerge. They include ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Email to: [email protected] negotiation, he highlighted that the renée Zellweger for Carolina Herrera’s talks are still at an initial stage. Superstar Award; Sarah Jessica Parker Buccellati declined to comment. for L’Wren Scott’s Lord & Taylor — ALESSAnDrA TurrA Fashion Oracle Award, and Viola Davis, who is giving the night’s Brand nOrDSTrOM WEIgHS In: It’s rare for Heritage Award to nicola Maramotti retailers to take a stand on politics for Max Mara. Other presenters or social issues, yet Nordstrom Inc. is include glenda Bailey and John Demsey officially supporting the right for gay for Star honorees Derek Lam and and lesbian couples to marry. gareth Pugh, respectively; Sonja rubin Blake nordstrom, president of and Kip Chapelle for Annabelle Selldorf’s Nordstrom Inc., said in an e-mail to architecture nod, and Kim Hastreiter employees that he and his brothers for James gager in beauty. In addition, Pete, president of merchandising, rose Marie Bravo will bestow the and Erik, president of stores, believe Sustainability Award to Jon King for that their gay and lesbian employ- Tiffany & Co., and Efraim grinberg will (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] ees are entitled to the same rights give Wynton Marsalis his Humanitarian and protections marriage provides Award. — MArC KArIMZADEH

w15a011a.indd 11 10/14/12 2:35 PM 10142012143627 12 WWD monday, october 15, 2012 WWD.COM HMX to Make Decision On Future This Week {Continued from page one} troduced. It also holds the license for the base value for a sale, and a court- Argyle Culture, the preppy-themed line sanctioned auction usually provides for from Russell Simmons that relaunched SXEXLXR SXCXNX QXAXTXR additional bids in set increments. James at Macy’s this fall and is codesigned by “Jamie” Salter, ceo of Authentic, did not Abboud and Simmons. In a bankruptcy, return calls for comment on Friday. One HMX is expected to keep the Argyle individual said Bluestar did not want to Culture license. S be the stalking horse, and another said Glen Ferraye, president of Simmons Photo Extxe Lxudxr Cxutixus Iconix, while interested, was expected Design Group, said despite HMX’s prob- M to come back into the bidding in a bank- lems, “Business is normal.” He said HMX

ruptcy court auction. All three entities is “in the process of delivering fall” and /Magnu have experience with fashion and ap- has “delivered on the custom shop build S ela Onx Exopx, Chixa Grxw parel firms. out at Macy’s.” He said spring orders for S Authentic’s most recent deal was in the line have been placed and HMX has an Mei June when it acquired the IP assets of begun “developing fall and holiday 2013.” S Sportcraft Ltd., through which Authentic Although he is not privy to HMX’s sale Su said it planned to reenergize the recre- discussions, Ferraye said he’s certain

ational sports industry. The company, that Argyleculture, a men’s line targeted Photo by which seems to favor the action sports to the “urban graduate,” is “being pre- and entertainment and celebrity li- sented as a valuable property with tre- Inside the Rochester, N.Y., factory. censing sphere, owns the IP assets of mendous upside potential that is an asset Marilyn Monroe, Silverstar and Tapout. to the company.” viously separate, were consolidated Authentic, which has the backing of HMX’s history originated from the in Rochester, N.Y., where the Hickey Leonard Green & Partners, includes now-defunct Hartmarx Corp., which was Freeman factory is located. on its board Kenny Finkelstein, the ceo acquired out of bankruptcy by SKNL in HMX then embarked on a frenzied of Knight’s Bridge Capital Partners, a August 2009 and renamed HMX. London- drive to upgrade and revamp its prod- Toronto-based private equity firm. based Emerisque Brands holds a minor- uct offering. Under Abboud’s tutelage, Iconix, headed by Neil Cole, has a ity stake in HMX. The transaction was a silhouettes were modernized, a dose of portfolio of consumer brands in which it $105 million debt and assumed liability fashion was injected into the offerings either owns or has an interest, including deal. Since the 2009 acquisition, HMX and lifestyle collections were created for Candie’s, Badgley Mischka, Joe Boxer, has paid down over $35 million of debt. each label. Rampage, Mudd, Mossimo, London Fog, SKNL had grand plans for HMX. Plans included exporting the Hickey Ocean Pacific, Bongo, Starter, Marc Since then, the Indian firm has run into Freeman, Hart Schaffner Marx and Ecko, Ed Hardy, Rocawear, Danskin and problems of its own. Bobby Jones lines internationally; initi- Material Girl, among others. In late 2011, the Indian economy ating a retail rollout for Hickey Freeman Bluestar, founded in 2007 by Joseph forced SKNL to delay its planned initial and the launch of a new concept called Gabbay and Ralph Gindi, typically buys public offering for the Indian operations Streets that would house all the compa- consumer branded firms and then con- of Reid & Taylor. Last month, SKNL had ny’s labels, and the hiring of powerhouse verts the operations into licensing en- to delay its annual shareholders meet- ad executive David Lipman to handle the tities. Its current portfolio of brands ing. Also last month, the Serious Fraud firm’s marketing initiatives. include Joan Vass, Kooba, Ya k Pak, Investigation Office received a complaint Observers wondered if it was a case of Kensie, Mac & Jac, English Laundry, regarding corporate governance viola- too much, too soon, a problem that came Harvé Benard, Hot Kiss and Ron tions alleged against SKNL, which the to a head when SKNL’s issues surfaced. Chereskin. Bluestar, which acquired a Mumbai Registrar of Companies is re- “Things are unraveling for SKNL and majority stake in Liz Lange Maternity in viewing. In a regulatory filing with the Nitin has become basically invisible,” said November 2007, sold its investment last Bombay Stock Exchange, SKNL said, one source close to the company. “And S month to Cherokee Inc. “The matters raised by the individual are that’s really put HMX in dire straits.” age iM As reported, HMX closed on a new frivolous and baseless.” In recent weeks, HMX lost the license financing facility with Salus Capital Donna Karan International last month for the Ivanka Trump women’s line, which etty Partners in August, but it was contingent pulled back its license for its DKNY sources said was a blow to the company. g on cash infusions from SKNL, which has men’s wear from SKNL, a five-year deal “They lost a fortune on that,” said one

been in business since 1948 and is one of that was inked in 2010. Patti Cohen, exec- source. “But they never should have been Raedle/

India’s largest apparel and textile com- utive vice president of global marketing in that business to begin with.” Joe panies, on an installment basis. That con- and communications for Donna Karan, Another differentiating factor — as tingency was required because the Salus confirmed that the association has been well as a major stumbling block to any ac- financing had been set to close in June, terminated and said the license has not quisition — is HMX’s North American fac- Photo by but had hit a roadblock due to a required yet been reassigned. tories. In addition to the Rochester plant, President Obama in a Hart Schaffner Marx suit. funding by SKNL that never materialized. When SKNL took a 90 percent stake in HMX also owns a facility in Chicago and There were concerns last month that HMX, its plans were grand and far-reach- one in Hamilton, Ontario, Canada. strength, the cost of maintaining manu- SKNL might not be able to meet the first ing in scope. Nitin Kasliwal, vice chair- The company is proud of its American facturing facilities in America has been installment requirement, so HMX began man and managing director of SKNL, roots and during the controversy that a barrier to any company interested in an unofficial sale process and held talks hired Williams to run the company, arose this summer when it was discov- acquiring the company. with potential bidders at the same time Abboud to head its design and proceeded ered that the U.S. Olympic uniforms Market sources believe the unions are that it weighed its bankruptcy option. It to put an aggressive plan into motion to designed by Ralph Lauren were made on board with a sale of the company, as wasn’t immediately clear whether Salus help the company regain a top position in China, Williams joined forces with long as that sale ensures the factories would also provide debtor-in-possession within the men’s wear arena. Senator Charles Schumer (D., N.Y.) to continue to operate. That can’t be guar- financing should the Chapter 11 filing Kasliwal said shortly after the purchase approach the U.S. Olympic Committee to anteed in a bankruptcy filing since the materialize, although there are also that within five years he expected to grow say HMX “stands ready” to produce the priority in any sale of assets is obtaining other available options for DIP financing. HMX into a “multibillion-dollar enterprise uniforms in its American factories. the best offer to satisfy creditors’ claims HMX is best known for its Hickey with various categories of product.” Despite the flag-waving, the facto- against the bankrupt estate. Freeman and Hart Schaffner Marx The first steps were to reorganize the ries — and their unionized workforce — Even so, HMX has stuck by its “Made clothing labels, the latter being a favor- company and revamp the product offer- have been a sticking point for the com- in America” stance. ite of President Obama. The company ing. Headquarters shifted from Chicago pany since its Hartmarx days. While the As Kasliwal said in 2010: “Hickey also owns Coppley, Bobby Jones and to 125 Park Avenue in New York City. brands produced by HMX, particularly Freeman is an American icon and it would Palm Beach, which was recently rein- Back-office duties for the brands, pre- Hickey Freeman, are seen as an area of be foolish for it not to be made in America.”

Dyeing, Garment Manufacturing, Printing, Cotton University connects students Quality Assurance, Knitting, Yarn with the cotton industry, and profes- Cotton Inc. Launches Cotton U. Manufacturing and Weaving — each offer- sionals within the industry to one an- aged by Cotton Inc. ing self-paced course work and certifica- other, through discussion groups, topical By ARTHUR FRIEDMAN Mark Messura, senior vice president tions of completion. The course work is Webinars and special online projects. for global supply chain marketing at guided by faculty comprised of technical “The popularity of Cotton NEW YORK — Cotton Incorporated has Cotton Inc., the research and promotion experts from Cotton Inc. and instructors Incorporated workshops, seminars and launched a new tool for the textile indus- company for cotton, said the program from well-respected educational institu- conferences grows year after year,” said try called Cotton University, a free online incorporates “the collective expertise tions. The course work is supplemented Messura. “The relevancy of their con- resource positioned as part digital cam- of Cotton Incorporated into a 21st-cen- with an online Library that includes a tent is the key driver for participation, pus, part professional network. tury multimedia campus and a 24-7 net- textile encyclopedia, a glossary of textile but the opportunity to engage with oth- Aimed at nurturing the next genera- working opportunity for students and manufacturing and fabric terminology, ers in the industry is also a factor. Cotton tion of textile-industry professionals professionals.” and streaming videos. Cotton Inc. expects University merges these two functions through education and engagement, The Cotton University curriculum is a number of design and textile technical into a Web-based platform that expands the site is a project of the Cotton Board divided into nine subject-focused col- schools will give classroom credit for stu- the reach of educational programs and Importer Support Program and man- leges — Denim Manufacturing, Finishing, dent participation in the site’s courses. expedites focused industry networking.”

w15a012a.indd 12 10/14/12 2:57 PM 10142012145814 II II SECTION WWDMILESTONESSECTION

■ STEFANO SASSI BUILDS FOR THE FUTURE

■ CHIURI & PICCIOLI: CARRYING THE DESIGN MANTLE

■ VALENTINO AND GIAMMETTI, FIVE YEARS LATER Valentino at 50 A HALF-CENTURY OF GRACE AND GLAMOUR.

Spring 2013 ready-to-wear. PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE 2 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 15, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES 1994 The designer creates costumes for “The Dream of Valentino,” an opera about silent-movie star Rudolph Valentino.

Fabulous 50 1995 More than 30 years after his first show The fashion house’s storied history. Compiled by Fabiana Repaci at the Pitti Palace, Valentino returns to Florence and shows at the Stazione Leopolda. The city’s mayor awards him a 1932 fall couture collection at New York’s special prize for Art in Fashion. Valentino Clemente Ludovico Garavani is Metropolitan Museum of Art. Q The house licenses Warnaco for lingerie. born on May 11 in Voghera, in Northern Q Valentino shows in Tokyo for the first Italy, to Mauro Garavani, director of an time. 1996 electrical supply business, and Teresa de The designer receives the distinction of Biaggi. 1983 Cavaliere del Lavoro. Maria Grazia The Italian Olympic Committee selects Chiuri and 1959 Valentino to design uniforms for the 1984 1997 Pierpaolo Valentino’s first couture studio opens at 11 Summer Games in Los Angeles. Launch of Very Valentino fragrance; a Piccioli, 2012. Via Condotti in Rome. A second follows on men’s version follows in 1999. Via Sant’Andrea in 1965. 1985 Q Debut of the new sportswear line V Zone. Q In January, Valentino holds his last The fragrance Valentino di Valentino couture show at the Musée Rodin in Paris, 1960 launches. 1998 and retires from fashion. The Mayor of The designer meets Giancarlo Giammetti, Q Italian president Sandro Pertini honors Italian firm Holding di Partecipazioni Paris, Bertrand Delano, honors him with who would become his partner. the designer as Grande’Ufficiale dell’Ordine Industriali buys Valentino for an estimated the Grande Médaille de Vermeil de la Ville al Merito. $300 million. de Paris. 1962 Q Valentino signs a global eyewear license Q Facchinetti shows her first ready-to-wear Valentino shows at the Pitti Palace in 1986 with Safilo. collection in February. Florence. The collection is an instant hit. The designer earns Q Matteo Marzotto, president and Italy’s highest honor: 2000 chairman of Valentino SpA, resigns and is 1964 Cavaliere di Gran Croce. Valentino marks 40 years succeeded by Stefano Sassi. The house presents the collection at the in fashion showing 40 red Q Valentino launches Valentino Timeless Waldorf-Astoria in New York. Jacqueline 1989 dresses at Rome’s Piazza di watches in partnership with Timex Group. Kennedy becomes a client. Valentino haute couture Spagna. Q “Valentino: Themes and Variations,” a bows in Paris at the Q The Council of Fashion major retrospective, opens at the Musée 1967 Ecole des Beaux-Arts. Designers of America honors des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. Valentino is honored in Dallas with the Q A new line, Oliver the designer with its Lifetime Q “The Red Thread: The Inspiration Neiman Marcus Award for most original (named for the Achievement Award. and Passion of Valentino Garavani,” an dress designer. designer’s favorite pug), Q A new line, Valentino interactive exhibition, opens in New York shows for the first time Roma, takes the place of and London. in Milan. Miss V. Q “The Last Emperor,” a movie about Q The National Italian the life and work of Valentino Garavani American Foundation Elizabeth 2002 and Giancarlo Giammetti hits theaters honors Valentino Taylor and Italian textile giant Marzotto worldwide. Valentino, with its Lifetime Group acquires the Valentino Q In October, after two seasons, Achievement Award. 1990. fashion house from HdP for Facchinetti and Valentino part ways. Chiuri $210 million. and Piccioli are named creative directors. 1990 Q Valentino Gold fragrance launches. Valentino and Giammetti found AIDS- 2010 education organization L.I.F.E. (Lottare, 2003 The house licenses Puig for beauty, Informare, Formare, Educare: To Fight,To Accessories directors Maria Grazia Chiuri terminating its pact with P&G. Aristotle Onassis and Inform, To Form, To Educate”), with the and Pierpaolo Piccioli introduce the Q Dancers of the Vienna State Opera Ballet Caroline Kennedy flank support of Elizabeth Taylor. younger line Red Valentino. at Vienna’s annual New Year’s concert gala Jacqueline Kennedy in Q Marking his 30th year in fashion, the Q The house signs a beauty license with don costumes designed by Valentino. Valentino, 1968. Accademia Valentino center for the arts Procter & Gamble, terminating its Q “Valentino Retrospective: Past/Present/ opens in Rome. The first show is the “Art Unilever pact. Future,” chronicling his early works, of Cartier.” opens at the Gallery of Modern Art in The book Brisbane, Australia. 1968 The White Q 2005 The White Collection bows. “Valentino: P&G launches the V fragrance, followed by Collection, Jacqueline Kennedy Trent’Anni di Magia” the stronger V Absolu. Q 1968. 2011 chooses a Valentino- (“Valentino: Thirty Q Valentino Fashion Marchon wins the company’s global designed dress for her Years of Magic”) is Group — valued at eyewear license.

marriage to Aristotle published. close to $1 billion Q Valentina fragrance is launched. DELBO Onassis. — is listed on Italy’s Q A men’s store opens in Hong The house’s first Paris 1991 stock exchange. Kong.

Q ANDREA

boutique opens at 42 The fragrance Q The designer Q The Valentino Garavani Virtual BY Avenue Montaigne. Vendetta launches, garners the Superstar Museum, the first 3-D fashion followed by Award from Fashion virtual archive, launches at 1969 Vendetta Pour Group International. valentino-garavani-archives.org. PICCIOLI Valentino Men’s launches Homme. Q The Costume Council of the AND and the company’s first Q The city of 2006 Museum at the Fashion Institute shop in Milan opens. Rome celebrates Three fragrances of Technology honors Valentino CHIURI the house’s 30th launch: V été, V Pour with an award for artistry. anniversary with Homme and Rock 1970 STREIBER; Valentino launches a ready- the exhibition ’n’ Rose. Valentino’s 2012 first fragrance ART to-wear collection. “Valentino: Thirty Q French president Jacques Chiuri and Piccioli present their first men’s BY Years of Magic,” Chirac honors Valentino with launched in wear show as special guests at Pitti Uomo held at the 1978. 1971 the distinction of Chevalier in Florence. TAYLOR A men’s shop opens in Capitole Museum; de la Légion d’Honneur. Q The revamped Via Montenapoleone Rome. the Accademia store in Milan, designed by David Valentino presents 2007 Chipperfield, opens. 1975 a retrospective of In June, London-based private equity firm Q In July, Valentino SpA is sold to Mayhoola MACHALABA;

Valentino ready-to-wear his work. Permira acquires Valentino Fashion Group for Investments SPC, an investment firm NICK

makes its Paris debut. for an estimated $3.5 billion. controlled by the royal family of Qatar, for BY 1992 Q In July, celebrations for Valentino’s $858 million. 1976 “Valentino: Thirty 45th anniversary include a couture show Q Valentino Garavani designs 30 costumes Valentino opens a store in Years of Magic” in Rome and the exhibition “Valentino for the New York City Ballet to be worn at a Tokyo. moves to New York. in Rome: 45 Years of Style” at the Ara special gala in September. More than 70,000 visitors attend the Pacis Museum, followed by a dinner at the Q In October, Valentino Garavani is 1978 exhibition within two weeks. Temple of Venus and an aerial ballet. honored by French Minister of Culture with Valentino launches its first namesake Q Valentino says he will retire in January. the distinction of Commandeur des Arts et BETTMANN/CORBIS; WHITE BY fragrance. 1993 Q Alessandra Facchinetti, former Gucci de Lettres. Valentino makes its debut in China at designer, is named creative director. “Valentino: Master of Couture,”

Q PHOTO 1982 CHIC ’93, the country’s first government- celebrating the house founder’s life and Valentino, invited by Diana Vreeland sponsored fashion event, at Beijing’s ancient 2008 work, will run at Somerset House in

and The Costume Institute, shows his Temple of Heaven. Valentino is delisted. London from Nov. 29 to March 3. WEDDING ONASSIS

4 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 15, 2012

SECTION II TheWWD MILESTONES Glider Stefano Sassi has rebuilt the brand in terms of product, image and modernity and are focused on exporting a storied house and it globally, through the renovation of ex- overseen the smooth isting stores or new units. The new concept also has a layout transfer of ownership and that supports the expansion of the acces- The renovated design. By Luisa Zargani sories category, which now accounts for flagship on Via between 30 and 35 percent of sales. Montenapoleone STEFANO SASSI has high ambitions for Sassi underscored that, since the be- in Milan. the house of Valentino. ginning of the year, sales at the Milan As chief executive officer of flagship jumped 70 percent compared Valentino Fashion Group SpA, Sassi has with two years ago, before the renovation. is to strengthen and intensify our pres- concerned about the increasing number over the past six years steered the brand The New York flagship is currently ence around the world, either directly of foreign groups taking control of Italian back into the black, forged a successful being refurbished and is expected to or through franchises, taking control of companies, Sassi said people tend to for- fashion design team, streamlined the open at the end of March, and the Paris markets that are now handled by others get Permira is an English private equity company’s structure and operations, venue on Avenue Montaigne is also slat- or entering in partnerships with opera- fund, “so Valentino had already left Italy, helped restore the label’s global profile ed to be unveiled in early 2013. tors that manage our business. This is our as far as ownership goes.” In any case, he and, most recently, succeeded in the In July, the new concept made its goal, to increasingly control the Valentino underscored that “this is an Italian proj- transition from its previous owners, pri- debut at the Hong Kong Landmark store, store network.” ect, the style, the management, the sup- vate equity fund Permira, to new ones, and on Oct. 5, a boutique in São Paulo The brand is already present in the pliers, the know-how and the essence of Mayhoola for Investments. opened via a partnership with developer Middle East and is expected to further this brand are all Italian. These are fun- The executive remains his usual un- JHSF at the Cidade Jardim mall. develop the region, but Sassi was quick to damental values that create employment, derstated and reserved self, looking for- “Our goal is to have redone 70 percent point out that this is independent from the and they all remain Italian. ward to Valentino’s new chapter and rel- of our stores in three years,” said Sassi. fact that the new owners are from Qatar. “Of course, we all agree that we ishing the challenges ahead. As of the end of September, there “The Middle East is an important would like to see a more active role Sitting in his sleek office at Valentino’s were 129 Valentino stores and 89 Red market, one where Valentino is very well- of Italy at home, but we can’t dismiss headquarters, a large photo of a glider Valentino boutiques globally. Retail sales known,” said the executive, pointing to foreign capital [investors] that support stands out as a rare glimpse into Sassi’s were up 27 percent year-to-date. an agreement signed recently with the typical Italian companies and gener- personal life. Declining to take credit for Sassi said business has grown in all Dubai-based retailer Chalhoub Group. ate employment in Italy, emphasizing any bravery in flying with no engines, he geographic markets and that China is an The sale to Mayhoola, an invest- Italian know-how. Foreign investors laughs, and says helming a fashion com- obvious focus going forward. As per the ment vehicle backed by a private group are more than welcome. I believe the pany and facing this economy are infi- plan defined before the sale to Mayhoola, from Qatar that’s understood to be con- current government also views foreign nitely more daring. the company was looking to open be- trolled by the royal family of that Middle capital supporting Italian businesses “And now, onto the next phase. The tween 40 and 50 stores over the next Eastern nation, took place quickly, after in a positive way. If a foreign investor company has grown more than 60 percent three years with investments of between recurring speculation that the previous respects the past of a brand, maintain- over the past three years, with annual 30 million and 40 million euros, or $38.6 owners, Red & Black Lux Sarl, a com- ing its Italian essence, and is willing to gains of 20 percent. I believe Valentino is million and $51.6 million, yearly. pany indirectly controlled by Permira support its future, I think that for Italy, surely a brand that can set an ambitious “We may now even accelerate this Funds in partnership with the Marzotto it’s only good news.” target and aim to double revenues in five development,” he said. “Our intention family, was looking to cash out. Sassi said he likes that the new owners years,” said Sassi, who was previously ceo “It all happened very quickly, follow- are “important shareholders that have a of Marzotto SpA and started working at ing a heightened interest in the brand presence in many other businesses, often Valentino in 2006. from several potential buyers,” said Sassi. with dimensions surely bigger that ours, Sales in 2012 are expected to total (Sources in Milan say Diesel chief with well-defined industrial plans.” about 370 million euros, or $476 million Renzo Rosso and the Ermenegildo Zegna While Permira as a private equity at current exchange, compared with 322 group were also eyeing the label.) fund by nature had a medium-term vi- million euros ($414.2 million) last year. Sassi praised the Mayhoola investors: sion, Sassi said it helped grow Valentino, Earnings before interest, taxes, depre- ANDREA DELBO PHOTO BY “From our point of view, it’s surely very despite “particular conditions,” such as ciation and amortization in 2011 reached positive because we are dealing with a the exit of the founder and a “devastat- 22.1 million euros, ($28.4 million), com- buyer with a long-term vision, and one ing [economic] crisis.” Permira’s “un- pared with 7.5 million euros ($9.6 million) that has great ambitions for the brand.” derstanding and strategies were always in 2010 and a loss of 9 million euros ($11.6 The executive showed no concern medium-to-long-term and it’s paid back.” million)in 2009. Sassi said he expected about his own future within Valentino, He said the long-term strategy of the EBITDA to reach about 30 million euros, claiming a “calm, happy and serene” dis- new investors was a positive for a busi- or $38.6 million, in 2012. position throughout the transition. ness that is being revitalized and ex- “Our priority now is to bridge the gap “I believe, actually, that one of the panded. The start of the journey was the with our competitors, in terms of visibil- reasons the investors bought Valentino brand, “unbelievably clean and credible ity and quality of distribution globally, is that they found a situation that con- in terms of the dreams it refers to, the through our new retail model and store vinced them, in terms of both creativity messages it sends. This is a fundamen- concept,” said Sassi. and management, one that has carved a tal starting point, and the credit goes to In February, Valentino unveiled its path for the future in a time considered those who created it.” latest store concept, based on a Roman quick enough. This is a value.” The company had lost ground to its palazzo, on Milan’s Via Montenapoleone, Sassi has always been a staunch sup- competitors, he said, because “more the first flagship to reflect the design porter of Chiuri and Piccioli’s evolution radical decisions” in terms of design, aesthetics of creative directors Maria of the Valentino product, as they opened organization and distribution needed to Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, the brand to a new category of consumers be made. “What we and I take credit for, who worked with architect David and developed the accessories, footwear just a little, is that we stayed on track, be- Chipperfield. Sassi and the designers be- Stefano Sassi and handbags divisions. cause such a change cannot be done in lieve the store mirrors the new course of in his office. Asked to respond to media reports one or two years.”

Valentino SpA and the M Missoni li- took control of Harrods for a reported mental.” Sassi remains at the helm censed business. The MCS Marlboro $2.22 billion in 2010; it has a 1.03 per- of the company, along with creative The New Owners Classics is being carved out from VFG cent stake in LVMH Moët Hennessy directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and IN JULY, Mayhoola for Investments, an and will remain under the ownership of Louis Vuitton and a 5.2 percent share Pierpaolo Piccioli. investment vehicle backed by a private Red & Black, which will also continue in Tiffany & Co. It also bought 26 At the time of the acquisition, investor group from Qatar, agreed to its majority ownership of Hugo Boss. percent of British supermarket J. which will be finalized before yearend, acquire Valentino Fashion Group SpA. It is understood Mayhoola is con- Sainsbury in 2010. Last year, Qatar be- Mayhoola issued a statement saying it Terms of the deal were not disclosed, trolled by Qatar’s royal family. The came the largest shareholder in French was “impressed” by the work of Chiuri, but Milan-based sources peg the price new owners are keeping a low profile media group Lagardère SCA, with a Piccioli and Sassi. tag at around 700 million euros, or $907 and declined to be interviewed for 12.8 percent stake. “Their ability to blend the aes- million at current exchange. this article. Valentino chief executive officer thetic values of the founder, Valentino The agreement was signed between Various investment vehicles from Stefano Sassi said this is just a first Garavani, with a contemporary and so- Mayhoola and Red & Black Lux Sarl, the Arab state have been on a luxury step. “There could be more ahead and phisticated vision, has been instrumen- a company indirectly controlled by and retail spending spree in the past surely they are entering the luxury tal in enhancing the brand’s relevance Permira Funds in partnership with the few years. Qatar Holding LLC, which world from the front door, taking con- and establishing a platform with sig- Marzotto family. was established in 2006 and invests trol of a brand with such fame. They, nificant potential. Our vision is to back Through the acquisition of VFG, on behalf of the State of Qatar as it is and we, will work together for this management for the long term.” Mayhoola acquires 100 percent of linked to the Gulf nation’s royal family, brand to be successful. This is funda- — L.Z. Etoile Group, the indisputable leader of luxury fashion in the Middle East would like to congratulate Valentino on shaping contemporary elegance for 50 years.

As the chosen partner in the region for more than 15 years, Etoile Group feels proud to be part of their success story.

50 years

www.etoilegroup.com 6 WWD monday, october 15 , 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES Carrying the Torch The design team brings the heritage of the house forward with a modern spirit. By Luisa Zargani

DESPITE THEIR strong connection a principal. It’s the same as in fashion,

with the city of Rome, it was only fitting which needs a consignor.” elbo d

that WWD’s interview with Valentino’s Chiuri and Piccioli know about A creative directors took place during working for a commissioner. After 10

the Venice Film Festival and the city’s years at Fendi, where the pair met Andre Architecture Biennale exhibition. and were credited with the invention While more press shy and re- of the Baguette bag, Garavani person- served than house founder Valentino ally wooed them to develop accessories photo by Garavani, Maria Grazia Chiuri and based on his briefings for each sea- Pierpaolo Piccioli continue to dress son. They were named creative direc- Hollywood A-listers — many of whom tors of accessories when Alessandra walk the red carpet at the Venice Facchinetti was assigned the same title Lido — and count the Architecture for ready-to-wear after Garavani re- Biennale’s president, David tired in 2008, and then succeeded her Chipperfield, among their friends. in rtw in October that year. Their conversation is peppered with The company is now in transition references to Chipperfield, who de- again, under a new owner — Qatar-based signed their new — and first — store Mayhoola for Investments — but they ap- concept. In particular, they often cite pear unfazed and forward-looking. the title the architect chose for the “We are used to changes and they stim- Biennale: “Common Ground.” ulate us,” said Chiuri. “We put ourselves “Different worlds are our inspi- on the line, and this is a very positive evo- ration, not only fashion, but art and lution. There is no stress. We are pleased cinema, the spirit of the times,” said that the company was sold because of the Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Chiuri, looking comfortable and at work that had been done. One of the goals Grazia Chiuri in the gardens of ease, relaxing poolside at the Hotel [of former owner Permira] was to revamp the Hotel Cipriani during the Cipriani. “Common ground makes the brand so that it would be appealing Venice Film Festival. us think about the foundations of the [to a new buyer].” Made in Italy [movement].” “The goal now is to grow the com- “Our collections have a cinemato- pany with a precise vision and busi- overturning or uprooting it, drawing in to that,” he said. graphic aspect, a vision of a tale, and ness model, with an eye on the market. new customers with feminine and ro- Piccioli noted, “It’s about memory, in Venice, we see the meeting of sev- Valentino, as an Italian brand, can be mantic, yet also contemporary, designs. not nostalgia, so it’s already selec- eral different arts. We ourselves don’t like Chanel in France,” added Piccioli. Keeping elements of the past while tive — and a foundation for the future, work on a single project, but on an in- The designing duo — whose unity of maintaining and integrating them with a source of inspiration. Everyone is tegration of different elements,” added intent, friendship and ease with each more personal ones is also common aware of the past and chooses one par- Piccioli. “We are well disposed toward other is palpable — has been credited ground with Chipperfield, according ticular memory.” this role of an architect at the service of with rejuvenating the brand without to Chiuri. Chiuri and Piccioli are family Chipperfield said that when he start- friends as well as colleagues. Each is ed talking with the designers about married — Piccioli has three children Franco Rubartelli’s 1967 shot the store project three years ago, they and Chiuri has two. of Verushka inspired the 50th “took heritage into account but were The designers have elected to high- anniversary capsule collection. thinking forward.” light Valentino’s couture, which, they “It’s difficult to do something new claim was “not so visible” in its influ- in retail. Everything has been tried,” ence on the ready-to-wear and other the architect said. “We wanted to make categories in the past. a house, escape the feeling of a show- They describe couture as “mul- room, design a palazzo in the spirit tifaceted,” expressing knowledge, of Valentino and bring architecture quality, execution, and service, and forward. We wanted to give a sense of extend its superior elements to other permanence, which is counterintuitive product categories, and even to the and different because it responds more store, meaning “care, and intimacy to architectural solidity rather than and personalization of timeless luxu- the ease of construction and notion of r y,” said Piccioli. change” usually associated with fash- “Couture is synonymous with unique- ion and retail. ness,” he said. “Those who know the Chipperfield added he was inspired product well appreciate it the most.” by Italy’s “great design period” from Chiuri said they were like “pioneers” the Fifties and Sixties, and architects when they started talking about couture, such as Gio Ponti and Franco Albini. while “people would talk about a logo, “The use of carbon fiber is an homage {Continued on page 8}

Looks from the 50th anniversary group.

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SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES

We like multifaceted women.” Spring 2013 ready-to-wear. To mark the store opening and Valentino’s 50th anniversary this year, the designers created a capsule collection of capes, foulards and totes that resurrect historic prints from the house. “These are simply prints that we liked but that others don’t really know,” said Chiuri, adding that they were less inspired by specific archival frocks and more by the iconic images taken, for ex- ample, by Franco Rubartelli of Veruschka wearing a Sixties-era creation. “There was a certain subversive nonchalance for the times that seems effortless today,” said Piccioli. Piccioli said Garavani in the Sixties was “a great innovator,” and the women he dressed in those years, such as Jackie Kennedy — “more individual and three- dimensional” — are closer to him and Chiuri, rather than the “more bourgeois nnoni A i

g Valentino women” from the Eighties.

nni Chiuri and Piccioli have only words A of praise for Garavani, whose story they iov g clearly enjoy and appreciate, and who also has always supported them.

2012 by “I always admired his rigor and firm- ll

A ness,” said Chiuri. “He never had a doubt, and that is his strength.” Piccioli pointed to Garavani’s “ability to dream and make others dream, what- ne feugere; f

A ever happens. He’s remained untouch- able and unfazed through any phase.” steph Piccioli underscored that neither he nor Chiuri “ever wanted to superimpose [their] face onto his.” Their ambition was to tell their stories, he said. Fall 2012 “Designs are simply born from the couture. instinct of individuals. Our biggest suc- spring 2013 photo by cesses were not expected. If there were a cocktail or a formula, everyone could {Continued from page 6} to the Roman quality of the brand: “The women that don’t represent one single be successful.” which is a synthesis and does not have Roman historical atelier makes it unique; beauty model, but one that is multifac- Chiuri said they would like for “each those cultural layers, the workmanship cinema, history, beauty and art — again, eted and more personal, no longer one single piece to be more visible and iconic, and the intrinsic quality [of couture]. common ground,” said Piccioli. single aesthetic look.” evocative of a reference world. The same For the past 10 years, fashion seemed However, as part of the rejuvenation The designer pointed to actresses as with Tiffany’s signature blue shopping contained in a logo. A logo can be luxu- process, “it was important to understand Laetitia Casta and Kasia Smutniak, who bag or the [Apple] icon on the desktop. r y, but luxury has been abused as a term that women have changed. The brand hosted the Venice Film Festival and wore We would like to maintain the connection for the past 10 years. It’s a relative con- referred to a classic and validated beau- Valentino on several occasions in the city. [Garavani] had and increase it. Valentino cept. Couture is more than luxury.” ty, according to an aesthetic scheme,” “They are so different, but have strong evokes a dream, and fashion must be a The designers also frequently refer Chiuri explained. “We started talking to personalities, and they are independent. dream. That’s its motor.”

The Red Valentino pop-up The Dreamy Side greenhouse in Milan.

IN 2003, WHEN Maria Grazia Chiuri The lion’s share of international and Pierpaolo Piccioli, then acces- sales comes from Europe, but the line sories directors, launched a younger is well distributed worldwide. In 2011, diffusion line, they paid tribute to the the company opened a 2,475-square- house’s signature color and called the foot flagship in Tokyo’s trendy Aoyama collection Red Valentino. neighborhood. A boutique is located on Despite the red theme obviously the ground floor, while the second level connecting the lower-priced line with holds a showroom and event space the designer range — they are both that’s connected to a rooftop terrace. well anchored in an idea of elegant, so- Red Valentino also counts flagships phisticated femininity — Red Valentino in Cannes, France, and in Rome, and is features a specific and defined individ- available at department stores includ- ual identity. ing Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Chiuri and Piccioli imbue the Red Harrods, Isetan and La Rinascente. The Valentino collections with a dreamy company is also set to open two more atmosphere, designing girly clothes Red Valentino freestanding stores, in embellished with frills, ruffles and ro- Milan and in São Paulo, Brazil. mantic patterns. “Red Valentino is performing well,” “Red reflects the most playful part of said Tiziana Cardini, fashion director the Valentino world,” Chiuri said. “It’s the at La Rinascente. “Maria Grazia and part linked to a fairy-inspired imaginary Pierpaolo succeeded in translating the [place]…mixing fantasy and reality.” image of the Valentino brand into a Previously licensed to Sinv SpA, young, contemporary line.” Valentino brought the line’s production In 2011, Valentino also promoted its a fairy-inspired, botanical scenario, the its fall 2011 ad campaign, shot in the in-house in 2009 to boost the expansion diffusion label, opening a series of pop-up label showcased and sold an exclusive dramatic setting of Copped Hall, a of the brand, which Valentino chief ex- stores in several cities, such as Florence fall collection designed just for the occa- Georgian mansion in Southern England. ecutive officer Stefano Sassi defined an and Taormina in Italy, Saint-Tropez in sion, comprising princesslike tulle skirts, The London-based photographer, “important driver of profitability and France and Knokke in Belgium. During velvet shorts and frocks embellished with who is currently on his third campaign growth over the years.” spring 2012 fashion week, the company flowers and butterflies. for the brand, injected a fantastical, Red Valentino, which is available in opened a temporary store in Milan’s At the same time, to give a spin dreamy mood into the pictures, which 89 point of sales worldwide, accounts 20 Piazza San Babila, which for six days to Red Valentino image, Chiuri and embody the its fresh, romantic spirit. percent of the company’s overall volume. hosted the Red Valentino greenhouse. In Piccioli tapped Tim Walker to shoot — AlessAndrA TurrA

w15b006(8)a;14.indd 8 10/12/12 5:38 PM 10122012174146 FIFTY YEARS OF FABULOUS.

WE CELEBRATE THE IMPERIAL HOUSE OF VALENTINO. 10 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 15, 2012 SECTION II

WWD MILESTONES The Glam Team

Style, elegance, chic — and more than a few frills — have been hallmarks of Valentino for a half-century.

Fall 2011 Fall couture Fall 2008 1988

Spring 2004

Spring 1967

Fall couture 2011

Fall couture 1995 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 15, 2012 11 WWD.COM

Spring Spring Spring couture couture 2013 2004 2009

Fall 2009 Fall couture 2004 SARDELLA, ARCHIVE WWD AND WEINBERGER ALEXANDRE DONATO MAITRE, DOMINIQUE GIANNONI, GIOVANNI DUMOULIN, FREDERIQUE BY PHOTOS

Fall couture Fall 1988 2010

Fall couture Spring 1989 2009 12 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 15, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES

Valentino the designer and Valentino the house have long been celebrity The Stars Are Out favorites. By Luisa Zargani VALENTINO GARAVANI’S childhood sociated with a Valentino design. been associated with is exceptional very criticism gives me the validity of role as an chaperone might be ac- Julia Roberts accepted her Oscar — Elizabeth Taylor, Audrey Hepburn, being called a chic designer. I prefer countable for one the most enduring for “Erin Brockovich” in a dra- Anjelica Huston, Brooke Shields, to remain in this domain.” love stories between a designer and matic vintage 1992 velvet-and-satin Nicole Kidman, Susan Sarandon, Hollywood’s fascination with the Hollywood and La Dolce Vita. gown in 2001. Four years later, Cate Halle Berry, Kate Hudson, Gwyneth Valentino brand has not waned as “When I was a kid, I had to chaper- Blanchett wore a yellow number ac- Paltrow, Naomi Watts, Sarah Jessica current creative directors Maria one my sister when she went out with cented with burgundy as she took Parker, Jennifer Lopez and Kate Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli her fiancé,” the designer reflected in home the Academy Award for her Winslet, among others. continue to forge strong relation- the Nineties. “I used to go to the cin- supporting actress role as Katharine “I have learned so much about ships with Tinseltown. Cases in ema with them to see those beautiful Hepburn in “The Aviator.” Hollywood working with actresses,” point: Keira Knightley, Jessica Alba, stars, and this made me start to think Last month, Anne Hathaway mar- the designer has said. “They don’t Diane Kruger, Olivia Palermo, Elettra about design and fashion. Later on, of ried Adam Shulman in an ivory silk have a normal woman’s expectations Wiedemann, Jessica Chastain and course, I met these people, but they tulle off-the-shoulder style with a pink walking into a party. All they think Jennifer Garner have all been photo- were not as they were on the screen.” hand-painted shaded train embroi- about is a grand entrance.” graphed wearing Valentino. No matter. The designer has over dered with satin flowers designed by With his feminine gowns, Garavani “We are the first to want to dream, the years continued to fuel this dream the couturier. surely succeeded in helping them and also the movies are a means to as countless A-listers posed for the From stately homes to artistic achieve this. In the Seventies, he dream,” said Chiuri. cameras wearing his creations. masterpieces, Valentino has always said: “I will continue to be Added Piccioli: “There is a connec- In some cases, unique, special surrounded himself with beauty and criticized for making overly tion between fashion and the movies, OF VALENTINO IMAGES; ALL OTHERS COURTESY STEPHEN LOVEKIN/GETTY moments have become indelibly as- the list of beautiful actresses he’s glamorous fashion. This and women that make us dream.”

Gwyneth Jane Fonda, Paltrow, 1982. 2001. BY HATHAWAY STEVE GRANITZ/WIREIMAGE;

Diane Kruger, 2012. BENETT/GETTY IMAGES; ANISTON BY

Cate Blanchett, 2005. M. DAVE

Brooke Shields, 1992. BY DANES ANGELI; JACOVIDES-BORDE-MOREAU/AGENCE

Sarah Jessica Parker, 2012.

Lady Gaga, 2011. Jennifer Julia Aniston, Roberts 2009. wears vintage 1992 in TERRY SCHMITT/BETTMANN/CORBIS;BY CRUZ 2001.

Penélope Cruz, 2005. GEORGE PIMENTEL/GETTY IMAGES; FONDA BY DIMITRIOS KAMBOURIS/WIREIMAGE; KRUGER BY Anne Hathaway, 2010. Claire Danes, 2007. PHOTO BY PARKER Celebrating of wow! 50Years

During half a century of dressing

cultural icons, Valentino became one itself.

Today, this house that defined couture

fashion continues, with characteristic

verve, to “make women beautiful.” VCongratulations, Valentino! 14 WWD monday, october 15, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES The Founding Fathers

Keeping busy is not a problem for the house founders. By Marc Karimzadeh

DON’T MENTION the “R” word. “Branding a name is good,” “Definitely, we’re not re- he said, noting his products tired people,” said Giancarlo bearing the “V” became status Giammetti, sitting in his beau- symbols. “But design has to be tiful, art-filled penthouse with at the basis of branding.” striking views of Manhattan Both Valentino and and beyond. “We never Giammetti still keep a close thought we’d be retired and eye on the fashion house. go bird-watching in the park. “We very much support the We never said, ‘Oh, now we’re house of Valentino, not just going to smoke cigars and go because it carries his name on vacation.’ ” but we love what they [de- Four years after Giammetti signers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Valentino Garavani de- and Pierpaolo Piccioli] do,” parted from the house they Giammetti said. “We think founded half a century ago they are great designers. They after a chance encounter have been able to bring the at Rome’s Café de Paris in Valentino style up to today, in Rome in 1960, the duo’s vis- a very modern way but respect- ibility is as high as ever. They ful of the past of the house.” go to fashion parties; sit in the Giammetti is equally con- front row of shows, by friends fident about the house’s new like Diane von Furstenberg Qatari owners.

and Oscar de la Renta, or, “I feel great,” he said. “I as was the case in Paris this think that the company was in month, take in the spring 2013 a very difficult situation with Valentino collection. They are the shareholders of the time. clearly not fashion wallflow- Permira didn’t understand ers, and have several high- the vision behind the fashion

profile projects in the works. house. Yo u cannot manage or In fact, almost immediately run a company without under- after leaving the house that standing the vision or having a

bears their name, the duo itzen Crawford vision yourself, and when you r

i

embarked on creating the M look at just the bottom line Valentino Garavani Virtual and you don’t have any per- Museum, which launched last Giancarlo’’ Giammetti sonal or private ambition, it’s December. It offers a digital and Valentino at the a disaster. This was the situa- archive of the designer’s life New York City Ballet tion. They were closing shops, and work, rendered in a way in September. and they were doing every-

so an online visit resembles a of Mi Photo Courtesy thing in a modest way. museum tour. The download- “I don’t consid- able desktop application, the year and six months. Every who cares? It’s not even on er what the Qatar first of its kind for a designer project we have now is a bit amazing china or a plate with people have done of this caliber, was an instant more relaxed, I would say.” a special design. It’s all just for Valentino, but hit, receiving more than 30,000 Still, the two seem perpetu- for the followers, and getting also for what they downloads in just the first ally in motion, more recently more followers than they al- do in Europe with two weeks. “It was great,” spending more time than ready have. I read something the hotels, the res- Valentino said. “To work with usual in New York, because of very interesting the other day: taurants,” he added. people so far from fashion was their association with the bal- Followers don’t mean you are “Everything they refreshing and relaxing.” let (Valentino keeps a home in special, because Hitler had do has some qual- Then, in mid-Sep- millions of followers and ity that can compete tember, the New York Jesus had just 12.” with a European City Ballet celebrated Ye t their star rose luxury conglomer- the designer with a gala, I am proud to have significantly after Matt ate. I think it’s in- and he created cos- Tyrnauer’s 2008 hit docu- teresting and that’s tumes for three works been myself my entire mentary “Valentino: The what I judge. I don’t of the ballet master in Last Emperor” — and not judge religion, I chief Peter Martins. career, never listening always in ways agreeable don’t judge ethnicity. It was not his only re- to Giammetti. They are investors cent foray into design Case in point: a re- who know luxury. — he also created the to all the input, cent night at the the- Plus, he added gown Anne Hathaway ater when Giammetti with a touch of non- wore when she walked suggestions, critics. was approached for a chalance, “Sheikha down the aisle to marry photo. “So I say, ‘Did Mozah is our cli- Adam Shulman in late —Valentino you see the movie?’ ” ent for a long time. September. he recalled. “And she Valentino personally Valentino and says, ‘What movie, Mr. did two weddings for hive Giammetti are also busy pre- New York). Lauren?’ Imagine if people C the family.” paring for “Valentino: Master While Valentino still designs come and say, ‘I love you in ar Meanwhile,

of Couture,” a major retro- for such special occasions, the movie’ — but that was wwd Valentino is quite spective opening at London’s Giammetti is embracing new very depressing. It was even Giammetti and Valentino in 1967. aware of the legacy Somerset House on Nov. 29. technology like Twitter, though more depressing another he wants his name to embody. “So no retirement,” he is somewhat reticent about time when someone said, myself my entire career, never “Precision, personality, cour- Giammetti said, though admit- it, and, perhaps deliberately, ‘Can I have a picture with listening to all the input, sug- age,” he declared. ting that life now is far less underplays the fabulousness of you?’ And I said of course, gestions, critics,” the designer And while many would ex- nerve-racking than it once the jet-set existence. and the wife comes over and reflected. “It’s not true that pect him to cite the red dress was. “Any project that he and “I don’t have a life that is said, ‘Thank you, Mr. Cavalli.’ you cannot just evolve and not a women should select could I have now is at a different so tweetable,” he said. “I don’t That was really insulting.” revolutionize all the time.” she choose just one Valentino pace. It’s not under the stress really tweet. I don’t know what As for Valentino, there’s The business of fashion may look, he proves that after all of ‘collection after collection to say. Sometimes I see what no mistaking him. He has al- have changed, but Valentino these years, he is still full of after collection,’ and not with my friends do. They’’ tweet, but ways remained true to him- insists he takes no issue with surprises. As he puts it, she a calendar where you know it is so shameful. They put a self, tan and all. how the industry is increas- should go for something totally exactly where you are in one plate on Instagram. I mean, “I am proud to have been ingly tuned in to branding. different: “A white lace shirt.”

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SECTION II

WWD milestones

Men’s wear gets a new, youthful spirit. Man Up By Alessandra Turra AS HE HAS frankly admitted, new, fresh image of the Valentino ers with rubber studs from the Valentino Garavani was never man — who is definitely younger spring 2013 range. hooked on men’s wear. and trendier. Piccioli said that at the base But that doesn’t mean he Chiuri and Piccioli put a of Valentino men’s collections ignored the men’s business, new spin on Italian sartorial there is “an iconographic and which he started in 1969. tradition with a combination of sartorial vision, which shapes Valentino, never sketched a voluminous and fitted shapes the contours of contemporary male outfit, but over the years and crisp fabrics featuring a masculinity without making developed the image of an el- high-tech finish. To underline them formulaic.” egant retro gentleman, who the youthful attitude, they also “Couture-inspired techniques sometimes indulged in an ultra- designed a range of men’s ac- and volumes are combined with glamorous lifestyle. cessories, which included hy- those from sportswear for a con- It’s no accident that the per-cool, studded leather iPad temporary, modular wardrobe,” designer chose actor Rupert clutches. Chiuri added, noting that aes- Everett to appear in his fall 1985 Last June’s show at thetics follow from technique, ad campaign, or that he decided Florence’s la Limonaia del cut and constructions. “The to put a black sequined dinner Giardino di Boboli confirmed goal is to reinvent men’s staples jacket in the holiday window that the new course paved for the through the codes of an authen- Saks Fifth Avenue dedicated to Valentino man. tic and natural elegance.” him in 2006. “Our goal is to revisit men’s Even if the men’s division rep- When Maria Grazia Chiuri staples, to turn them into icons,” resents a relatively small portion and Pierpaolo Piccioli took Piccioli said during a preview a of Valentino’s overall business, it the reins of the men’s division few hours before the show. has been registering significant in 2009, succeeding Ferruccio “Maria Grazia and Pierpaolo growth. In the first half of 2011 Pozzoni, who designed only two refreshed the Valentino men’s (the most recent figures made collections for the house, they style while keeping its clas- available), sales rose 33 percent, started a revolution that cul- sic attitude,” said Tiziana representing about 6 percent of minated in a runway presenta- Cardini, fashion director at La the company’s total revenues. tion staged at Pitti Uomo last Rinascente. “Now the collec- In September 2011, January. It was the first time tions are more essential, modern Valentino also opened its first Valentino men’s was presented and cool.” men’s flagship in Asia. Located at Pitti, and the designers were Cases in point: an eye-catch- in The Landmark mall in Hong special guests of the fair. ing bomber jacket, crafted from Kong, the 2,166-square-foot Staged in the Baroque rooms panels of cotton, leather and space is exclusively dedicated of Florence’s Palazzo Corsini, nylon with khaki gabardine in- to men’s ready-to-wear and ac- that fall 2012 show revealed a serts, and camouflage sneak- cessories collections.

Spring 2013

Fall 2012

Fall 1997 iannoni g iovanni g by S photo 2012 tri; Fall S Mae e D Davi by S

Spring Fall Spring 1992 Spring 2013 2013 2012 Spring 2013 photo

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WWD MILESTONES

Fall 2012 by Deborah Turbeville.

▲ Turbeville’s shoot for fall 1977.

OLIVIERO TOSCANI Best known as the envelope-pushing pho- tographer behind a series of politically sensitive Benetton campaigns, Toscani also worked for Valentino. A shot for the brand’s spring 1986 ready-to-wear collec- tion showed a playful young woman with cropped blonde hair jumping toward a young man with his lips puckered in a kiss, with the International Herald Tribune in one hand and his sweetheart’s in the other. Toscani also produced a tongue-in- cheek picture of the same young woman with a polka-dotted Valentino skirt blow- ing up behind her, where a quintet of young men stood politely smiling.

HERB RITTS Ritts’ contributions to Valentino in the mid-Nineties featured a statuesque Sophisticated Ladies Christy Turlington, occasionally sur- Campaigns that ooze chic. By Cynthia Martens rounded by a throng of naked male ad- mirers. The images’ clean lines in black- VALENTINO GARAVANI’S gregarious and-white — a hallmark of Ritts’ no nature and personal extravagance were frills style — put the emphasis squarely initially the brand’s greatest advertise- on the power of female beauty. ment. With a permanent tan evocative of yachting in the Mediterranean or ski SATOSHI SAIKUSA trips to Gstaad, the designer was often Japanese photographer Saikusa shot seen with his troupe of tail-wagging Laura Ponte and Chandra North for pugs, or entertaining beautiful friends Valentino’s fall 1996 campaign, which at his Château de Wideville outside depicted sexually confident career Paris. His fondness for a particular women. Also in 1996, he shot a sultry shade of red, which he splashed across Astrid Muñoz — her hair piled high and cocktail dresses and evening gowns, was interwoven with metallic leaves — in a also well-known. sleek haute couture black dress with thin Since creative directors Maria Grazia straps and delicate floral embroidery. Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli took the reins at the house in 2008, they have STEVEN MEISEL carefully channeled the Italian mai- In the late Eighties, throughout the son’s original glamour into collections Nineties and onward, Meisel presented with a modern sophistication, and the a colorful, decadent vision of Valentino, corresponding ad campaigns mirror this with models like Linda Evangelista, evolution. Absent is the heavy makeup Claudia Schiffer, Nadja Auermann and favored in previous years; theirs is an Gisele Bündchen in cinematic campaigns. understated beauty though still empha- In 2000, the photographer shot a pack sizing luxury. of models including Malgosia Bela and “We reject the concept that there is a Karen Elson poolside at Stahl House separation between the images and our overlooking the Los Angeles skyline. products: what is in the stores is in the ▲ Fall 1995 by Herb Ritts. ▲ Oliviero Toscani’s spring 1986 campaign. ads,” Chiuri said. Decades after Marisa Berenson gazed doe-eyed at Vogue readers in a white dress with floral appliqués, Valentino remains a recognizable brand, thanks partly to the many celebrated photographers who have crafted its campaigns. Here’s a look at some of the names behind the lens.

GIAN PAOLO BARBIERI In the Sixties, Barbieri shot a series of photos of model Mirella Petteni in vo- luminous dresses, vibrant coats and sparkly earrings against a startling des- ert studio backdrop. With her charcoal- smudged eyes and perfectly coiffed hair, Petteni was faithful to Valentino’s ideals. In a 1965 interview with WWD, Garavani said, “Women of today have a duty to be soignée. They should be well made up, absolutely wear lipstick — I detest women without lipstick — and be well coiffured, not running around with [hair] dangling straight as if they just finished a home shampoo.” ▲ David Sims for spring 2011. ▲ Fall 2000 by Steven Meisel. WWD.COM

Turbeville’s shoot for fall 1977. s satoshi saikusa for fall 1996 couture.

The women were draped in jewel-toned and Piccioli said they wanted to convey a gowns, their hair styled for Hollywood’s more delicate, individual beauty. golden era, while a bevy of bare-chested guys sprawled across lounge chairs bran- DeBoraH TurBeville dishing cocktails and cigars. In 1977, Turbeville shot a Valentino cam- paign in which a group of young women Mario TesTino posed languidly by an old palazzo in long In 2005, Testino shot Gisele in a golden evening gowns. strapless dress standing beside a baby Called back for the 2012 campaigns, the zebra in the company of a chiseled Will American photographer’s recent work for Chalker. The image was one of a series the brand offers the same dreamy atmo- that radiated sexiness and high living. sphere, with contemporary models includ- ing Caroline Brasch Nielsen, Fei Fei Sun, DaviD siMs Ruby Aldridge and Frida Gustavsson. They Valentino’s fall 2010 campaign juxtaposed appear lost in thought, draped across the naked and clothed shots of models Freja tiled floor of Villa Parisi outside Rome; Beha Erichsen, Tati Cotliar and Monika standing by a shadowy wall in Pozos, “Jac” Jagaciak. Sims’ quiet, candid black- Mexico, or lounging at the baroque Palazzo and-white images marked a departure Valguarnera-Gangi in Palermo, Sicily. from the brand’s usually outspoken lux- Chiuri and Piccioli have praised ury. When he shot the fall rtw collection Turbeville’s photography for its romance the following season, Sims emphasized and “dark modern edge.” soft pastels and subdued lighting; Chiuri Said Piccioli: “We sell through emotions.”

Congratulations, Valentino on 50 years of impeccable style.

BAL HARBOUR SHOPS ® www.balharbourshops.com

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SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD Milestones Valentino “Accessories are Garavani bag, sule collection, our passion and 2000. which includes calf, easily translate python, ponyskin into [key] pieces,” and patent leather V Is for Versatile Piccioli said. bags and shoes fea- “They allow us to turing black ru- “ACCESSORIES ARE impor- bags with the gold- tell a story with thenium studs. tant, but we are not an acces- en V logo produced one object, so The duo’s sig- sories company, and the rule by Italian manu- that they become nature studded should be that you do what you facturer Coppola [signature], they decorations also know how to do at your best,” and Toppolo, was Valentino are small pieces embellished some Giancarlo Giammetti told the appointment of sunglasses from that encompass of the frames WWD in 2007. Maria Grazia Chiuri and the current collection. dreams.” from the brand’s Five years later, it can be said Pierpaolo Piccioli as accesso- Immediately spring 2012 eye- that while Valentino remains ries designers in 1999. Formerly accessories recognizable wear, the first to primarily an apparel label, it That year, Holding di designers at Fendi, Chiuri are the ele- be produced by has also shown it can deliver Partecipazioni Industriali, and Piccioli offered a new ments of the Marchon, which successful, high-end accesso- which owned Valentino at the Valentino collection filled Rockstud range, inked a five-year ries, which, according to chief time, brought accessories pro- with colorful beading, deli- which was intro- agreement with executive officer Stefano Sassi, duction in-house, discontinu- cate embroideries, animal duced for spring Valentino in 2011. currently account for 30 to 35 ing the license with Gru.P.Italia. prints and sequins. 2011. It was a se- Last month, dur- percent of sales. The exception was eyewear, “We came to Valentino with ries of bags and ing the Venice Film The turning point in the which had been produced by a purpose: to create acces- shoes decorated Festival, Valentino evolution of the accessories Safilo since 1998 and yielded sories that are as interesting with studs. launched a special division, created in 1967 when the best-selling aviator style em- as the designer’s clothes, but “Rockstud has eyewear collection Valentino Garavani launched bellished with metal butterflies. that are not mere accessories made every woman a called Venice Limited to his clothes,” Chiuri said in rock star on her own fash- Edition. The range, con- Valentino Garavani Rockstud shoes, 2011. 1999. “They should have a sep- ion stage,” said Ken Downing, sisting of 300 pieces, fea- arate identity and make sense senior vice president and tures rounded, oversize gold on their own.” fashion director for Neiman metal and acetate frames Chiuri and Piccioli created Marcus. “All day and all night, embellished with Swarovski signature pieces and “It” bags, decorating her feet and held Elements and matched with such as the Shopping Couture in her hand, women are ob- fuchsia, apple green and pow- totes, launched in 2008, fea- sessed with the femininity of der pink lenses. turing 10 variations, including Rockstuds’ polished chic, hit Valentino also licensed a black leather style showing hard with an urban edge.” Timex Group in 2008 for numerous circular layers as- For fall 2012, Chiuri the production of watches, sembled to form a rose, or one and Piccioli revisited the which were formerly made by completely covered with pea- “Rockstud” theme, launch- Sector Group. cock feathers. ing Noir, an all-black cap-  —AlessAndrATurrA

Valentino for Men in 1997. A TV ad fea- Valentino customer.” and white, in a nod to the house’s turing South African model Georgina He reported sevenfold growth for fashion collections. The Liquid Link Grenville, who used the tag line “I’m the brand’s fragrance business over The Valentina campaign features WHEN VALENTINO revealed a fra- feeling very Valentino,” complemented four years. Freja Beha Erichsen, a frequent pick grance licensing agreement with a print campaign shot by Steven Meisel. Rock ’n’ Rose Couture arrived in for Valentino’s fashion ads, as a young Barcelona-based Puig in 2010, the fash- In 2002, Valentino Gold hit the time for Valentino’s 45th anniversary aristocrat skipping her parents’ party at ion house was in transition. Creative market. Gabriele Pungerscheg, then that year. P&G remained the house’s a palazzo in favor of a night on the town directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and president of Unilever Cosmetics licensee when Valentino retired and with friends. Rome — the birthplace of Pierpaolo Piccioli had arrived less than International’s European designer Chiuri and Piccioli became creative di- the Valentino label, Chiuri and Piccioli two years prior, and they were develop- fragrances division, told WWD the fra- rectors in 2008. — was its inspiration. Also at the fore ing the brand’s identity for a new gen- grance was aimed at “women who are With Valentino rapidly evolving, how- was today’s trendsetting, young genera- eration of customers. It was essential to looking for a little luxury, who are buy- ever, ceo Stefano Sassi — who joined tion of jet-setters, such as Sofia Coppola match the fragrances with the fashion. ing into the Valentino world.” the company in 2006 — Chiuri and and Bianca Brandolini d’Adda. But Valentino’s first foray into the A year later, Valentino transferred its Piccioli felt it was time to find a new The Valentina line has recently been beauty business dates back to the late fragrance license to Procter & Gamble, partner. Industry sources also suggested extended with Valentina Assoluto, a Seventies — just after Yves Saint Laurent which promptly revealed plans to ex- that Valentino was a smaller company chypre scent that will hit U.S. counters launched its spicy Opium perfume. pand and bring beauty sales from 10 to than P&G’s other licensees, and as such by April 2013. “I will always be criticized for 15 percent of the house’s total volume to it needed more one-on-one attention. “It’s more haute couture,” explained my extremely glamorous fashion,” 30 or 40 percent. Michele Norsa, chief In January 2010, Valentino agreed to Albesa. Valentino Garavani said in a 1978 WWD executive officer of the fashion company a long-term license with Puig that went The new fragrance’s advertise- interview. That year, he and Giancarlo at the time, spoke of the need to seduce into effect in February 2011. ment was shot in Rome, too, and shows Giammetti invited hundreds of guests a new generation of customers. “Although we’re talking about a Erichsen preparing for an evening out. — including Lauren Bacall, Hubert P&G’s first Valentino fragrance, V, large-scale product, we feel Puig is Today, Valentino has managed to at- de Givenchy, Pierre Cardin, Serge was aimed at women who “want to have strongly committed toward the develop- tract the young consumers the company Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin — to it all,” said Markus Strobel, then- ment of the product, favoring intuition had been courting for years without los- the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées general manager of prestige and creativity over marketing,” Sassi ing the glamour its founder made famous. for a performance by Roland products and fine fragrances. To told WWD at the time. Puig executives would not divulge Petit’s ballet starring Mikhail keep the brand’s positioning high, From the outset, the idea was to numbers, but industry sources estimate Baryshnikov, and gave away about V was priced 15 percent above align Valentino’s scent business with its Valentino’s fragrance business will gen- 1,000 bottles of the brand’s other scents. fashion activity, explained José Manuel erate more than 100 million euros, or that first name- The Valentina In 2005 came V Absolu, a Albesa, chief brand officer at Puig. He $129.3 million at current exchange, in sake fragrance to fragrance more concentrated version of said it was important to work closely retail sales worldwide this year. the crowd. launched in V, and in 2006 V Pour Homme with Chiuri and Piccioli and “to extract Its main markets are the U.S., Italy, Over the next 2011. made its debut with a sexy ad the DNA” of the brand to project it in the Middle East, Spain, the Asia-Pacific four months, the campaign featuring Eric the world of fragrance. region and Russia, according to Albesa. eau de toilette hit stores Balfour shot by Steven Adjectives he used to describe Elsewhere in Europe, key countries in- throughout Europe and Klein. In 2007, Rock Valentino included “contemporary,” clude France, the U.K. and Germany. reached New York in ’n’ Rose targeted “unconventional,” “feminine,” “elegant” “We are performing extremely well spring 1979. women discovering and “sophisticated.” in all of them and see a lot of potential,” Throughout the Valentino label Puig opted to discontinue he said. “This is just the first chapter of the Eighties and for the first time. Valentino’s older fragrances, and a long-term adventure.” Nineties, the “The last cou- September 2011 marked the arrival Next up for the Valentina franchise brand worked ple of years have of Valentina, the first Valentino scent is an offer slated for a 2013 launch. A with Unilever, signaled a lot developed under Chiuri and Piccioli’s men’s fragrance will also be explored. relaunching the of change and creative direction. Conceived by “It is interesting what Pierpaolo original scent in growth for the Firmenich’s Olivier Cresp and Alberto and Maria Grazia are injecting into the 1985 and introduc- brand,” Strobel Morillas, the eau de parfum contains men’s fashion arena,” said Albesa, “so ing others such said at the time. Calabrian bergamot, white Alba truf- for sure, our fragrances will follow their as Ver y Vendetta “We’ve rejuve- fles, jasmine and Amalfi orange blos- vision [for men] in the years to come.” and Vendetta Pour nated the portfolio som, among other ingredients, and  —CynThiAMArTens, Homme in 1993, and with Rock ’n’ Rose comes in a gently rounded bottle em-  MilAn,wiThConTribuTions Ver y Valentino and Ver y to try to reach a new bellished with roses in ivory, nude  froMJenniferweil,PAris

w15b020a;7.indd 20 10/12/12 6:20 PM 10122012182151 VALENTINO

Congratulations. Here’s to another 50 years of impeccable taste, incredible style and stunning fashion. 22 WWD monday, october 15, 2012

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WWD MILESTONES

Inspiration comes in many forms and from myriad sources.

FOR THEIR SPRING ready-to-wear col- Agnelli to the actresses of Cinecittà to lection, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo women on the street. His signature was Piccioli looked for design cues in the casting celebrities and civilians in the Eternal City — their own hometown and same glamorous light. headquarters of Valentino. The designers were struck by the no- In the “We take a lot of inspiration from tion of a woman’s identity and the concept Rome,” said Chiuri during a preview of of personal beauty. the collection this month. “In some ways, A recent Cindy Sherman show also our idea of it is not so beautiful. But for had some influence — not her strange im- us, the city and fashion are about dreams.” personations, but Sherman’s mastery of The pair also saw an exhibition of self-representation. A woman can choose work by Roman photographer Arturo whom she wants to be. Ghergo, known for his portraits in the Here, the mood boards that inspired Mood Forties, his subjects ranging from Marella the season. rroyo a ablo p Valentino/photo by of Courtesy The mood board for the spring ready-to-wear season.

w15b022a;6.indd 1 10/12/12 1:19 PM 10122012132039 South Coast plaza Celebrates

Congratulations on 50 years of legendary fashion, beauty and style. Visit Valentino along with 250 boutiques, 30 restaurants and the Segerstrom Center for the arts at South Coast plaza.

San Diego Fwy (405) at BriStol St., CoSta MeSa, Ca 800.782.8888 SouthCoaStplaza.CoM

Walter N. Marks Realty

CONGRATULATES VALENTINO on its 50th Anniversary

and Flagship Store on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills VOGUE celebrates valentino For 50 years oF glamour, drama, and showstopping Fashion. Happy anniversary

photographed by arthur elgort, VOGUE, october 2009.