ALL JUSTICE’S DOLLED AFTERMATH 18 PEOPLE NAMED UP FOR THEIR ALLEGED INVOLVEMENT IN BARBIE GETS OUTFITTED… FRESH APPROACH HICKEY FREEMAN GETS A FACELIFT FOR SPRING. PAGE MW1 THE RANA PLAZA AS LAGERFELD. PAGE 7 TRAGEDY. PAGE 2

BACK ON THE TABLE Internet Sales Tax Bill Gets Push From Senate

By KRISTI ELLIS

WASHINGTON — Retailers’ efforts to close the Internet sales tax loophole just found new life on Capitol Hill. A group of senators, led by Sens. Dick Durbin (D., Ill.) and Mike Enzi (R., Wyoming), have introduced THURSDAY, JULY 17, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY legislation that combined their own bill enabling WWD states to collect sales taxes from out-of-state online sellers with a House-passed bill extending a perma- nent ban on states taxing Internet access. The new combined legislation is designed to equalize the ground rules for brick-and-mortar retailers. Retailers have led the fi ght to close the Internet sales-tax loophole for more than a decade without resolution, but the new legislation gives fresh mo- COLLECTIONS mentum to the effort. Retail groups in Washington lauded the revived legislative effort, which had been stalled this year. BERLIN “The National Retail Federation applauds the in- SPRING 2015 troduction of this bipartisan piece of legislation that seeks to level the playing fi eld between local, brick- and-mortar merchants and online retailers without Snap, creating or raising taxes,” said David French, senior vice president for government relations at the NRF. “The retail industry has rapidly evolved over the last two decades with e-commerce and mobile commerce, and it is time for Congress to eliminate the sales tax disparity, which disproportionately impacts commu- Crackle... nity and independent retailers.” Bill Hughes, executive vice president for gov- Popping was one way to describe Berlin last ernment affairs at the Retail Industry Leaders week. The city was a collision of soccer fans Association, said: “Retailers support keeping Internet counting down to the FIFA World Cup fi nal access tax-free while closing the online loophole that essentially subsidizes online-only retailers against and style-seekers in town for fashion week. their brick-and-mortar competitors. It’s time for the Dorothee Schumacher, whose white crackled government to take its thumb off the scale and give all leather jacket and dress are shown here, was retailers a fair shot to compete in the free market. “ The bill “signals that leveling the playing fi eld among the many German designers to show for all retailers is a top priority for Congress this in the capital. For more, see pages 4 and 5. SEE PAGE 6 Rent the Runway 2.0: Accessories and More By RACHEL STRUGATZ

NEW YORK — Rent the Runway is looking for a piece of the fast-fashion market — expanding beyond the confines of special occasion dressing with a new ver- tical and price model. The almost fi ve-year-old Web site, which has be- come the go-to online rental destination for custom- ers seeking designer outfi ts for weddings, interviews, galas, dates and more, will today introduce an acces- sories category. More than 1,000 handbags, sunglass- es, scarves, outerwear, hats and pieces of jewelry are unlimitedly available to members for a price of $75 per month. Offerings include contemporary and de- signer brands from Eddie Borgo and Pamela Love to Balenciaga and Oscar de la Renta. After launching in November 2009 as a vehicle for customers to gain entrée into the world of designer brands on an occasion basis, cofounder and chief ex- ecutive offi cer Jennifer Hyman wanted to focus on everyday style. “We really wanted to attack Zara and H&M head on,” Hyman told WWD in an interview at the com- pany’s headquarters here about the beta launch of Rent the Runway’s Unlimited business, which is part of what she calls Rent the Runway 2.0. “When there is a trend and you want to update, the mass-market customer will go to H&M or Zara and buy something disposable — [they] buy [this] like junk food.” The monthly $75 subscription fee enables mem- PHOTO COURTESY OF MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK BERLIN bers to receive three items at a time — which they SEE PAGE 8 2 WWD THURSDAY, JULY 17, 2014

Rana Plaza Charge Sheet Names 18 THE BRIEFING BOX section 304 and section 34” of the Bangladesh penal IN TODAY’S WWD By MAYU SAINI code, describing their role as “culpable homicide.” The report by the Home Ministry cited “low-quality AS WORKERS and survivors of the collapse of construction materials, use of black money in the Rana Plaza in Bangladesh heard about the charge illegal construction and approval process, building Nicole Scherzinger sheet accusing 18 people this week, including Sohel codes not being followed, establishing a garments in a patchwork Rana, the principal of the factory, they hurried to factory on top of a market complex, and the build- iiJin letterman share the news with their colleagues. ing was loaded with vibrant machineries and the jacket. For more “Nothing can bring back my sister who lost her garment workers were forced to enter the hazardous looks from life in the building,” Hafeeza Begum told WWD. “But structure,” as part of the reasons for the collapse. Scherzinger, see at least we can believe that there is some justice.” Immediately after the incident, Rana had disap- WWD.com. Workers had been agitating and calling for the peared and the police tracked him near the India arrest and indictment of the owners of the eight border. He has been under arrest since.

story building, which collapsed in April 2013 tak- Refayet Ullah, the municipal mayor in Savar, a IMAGES ing the lives of more than 1,130 garment workers. suburb of Dhaka where the building was located, Rescue workers dug into the debris for weeks to was also named for giving clearance to Rana Plaza recover bodies of the workers of the five garment to be built up to 10 floors. According to government

factories that were located in the building and to officials, the mayor was only allowed to authorize MOCKFORD/GC look for survivors. buildings up to six floors.

The charge sheet for 18 people accused for their Rana Plaza had eight floors and was built on NEIL P. alleged involvement in construction irregularities swamp land, making the foundations of the build- was approved by the country’s Anti-Corruption ing unstable. PHOTO BY Commission on Wednesday, putting an end to the Three owners of the garment factories in the controversy about the addition of Rana’s name. building, including Mohammad Aminul Islam, Mohammed Shahabuddin of the Anti-Corruption chairman, Phantom Apparels Ltd. chairman; Commission said that Rana’s name had been added Bazlus Samad, managing director, New Wave Retailers’ efforts to close the Internet sales tax loophole just for his alleged involvement in tampering with the Bottom Ltd., and Azizur Rahman, chairman, Ether found new life on Capitol Hill. PAGE 1 construction of the building. Tex Ltd. were also named. Although both of Rana’s parents, Abdul Khalek Others in the charge sheet include Masud Reza, Rent the Runway is expanding beyond the confines of special and Morjina Begum, were included, Rana’s name architect; Sajjad Hossain, engineer; Morzina Khan, occasion dressing by introducing accessories. PAGE 1 was not found on official documents, officials said, former secretary of Savar municipality; Abul prompting them to leave it out in previous inqui- Bashar, former secretary, and Abdul Motalib, li- Dior’s Fusion sneakers, which arrived in its boutiques this ries. On Tuesday, Rana was included and accused cense inspector. month, were feted at Maxfield in Los Angeles. PAGE 3 of “unbridled irregularities.” Other engineers and their assistants — Uttam Worker outrage and anger against Rana as well Kumar Roy, Rafiqul Islam, Mahbubur Rahman, Buyers at Berlin Fashion Week had to contend with extreme as the owners of the five garment companies that Rakibul Hasan Russel and Farzana Islam, who was PAGE 4 were housed in the building was fueled by the the town planner for Savar — are also included. construction, end-of-days downpours and soccer. fact that cracks had been noticed in the building This charge sheet follows a precedent set by the previous day before the collapse, yet workers the charge sheet against 13 people for the Tazreen Levi’s in August will launch the Levi’s x 49ers Collection in were ordered to report for work. According to gov- Fashions factory fire in November 2012, when 112 collaboration with the NFL’s San Francisco 49ers. PAGE 6 ernment officials, the collective weight of the gen- people were killed. The charge sheet was filed a erators situated on top of the building caused the little more than a year later, in December 2013. Karl Lagerfeld’s latest collaboration involves what must be the cracks to give way, leading to complete collapse. Until then, worker leaders told WWD that there world’s smallest pair of fingerless gloves. PAGE 7 A subsequent report issued by the government was little chance of owners of buildings and fac- soon after the incident recommended that the build- tories to be indicted as they were often well con- Managing editors were jumping from one media company to ing owner and management be “prosecuted under nected, and sometimes held party posts themselves. the next this week. PAGE 7

Designers Peter Strateas and Mario-Luca Carlucci won the Australian finals for the International Woolmark Prize. PAGE 8 Fashion Fund Finalists Revealed Hickey Freeman, the venerable American label, has been reinvented for spring. PAGE MW1 Steven Kolb, Ken Downing, David Neville, Marcus By MARC KARIMZADEH Wainwright, Mark Holgate, Jeffrey Kalinsky, Reed Jack Spade this fall will launch its first tailored clothing Krakoff and Jenna Lyons. PAGE MW2 NEW YORK — The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund is The winner and two runners-up will be unveiled collection at retail. going into round 11. at a gala dinner on Nov. 3. As in the past four years, On Wednesday evening, the annual initiative the winner is expected to receive $300,000, while Suitsupply has set up a pop-up shop in Johannesburg to named this year’s 10 finalists: Wes Gordon; Tanya $100,000 will go to each runner-up. establish its presence in South Africa. PAGE MW4 Taylor; Paul Andrew; Daniel Corrigan and Jake As part of the event, the finalists will participate Sargent of Simon Miller; Brett Heyman of Edie in a design challenge underwritten by Maybelline Katie Eary and Iron and Resin are among the brands to check Parker; Natalie Levy and Grant Krajecki of Grey New York, as well as a fashion show at Los Angeles’ out at the New York trade shows. PAGE MW10 Ant; Eva Zuckerman of Eva Fehren; Gigi Burris of Chateau Marmont in October, which takes place Gigi Burris Millinery; Ryan Roche, and Orley’s Matt with the support of Thecorner.com. Orley, Alex Orley and Samantha Florence. J. Crew is the sponsor partner of the fund, with ON WWD.COM They were revealed during a cocktail event underwriters American Express, Carolina Herrera, at the Oculus, and hosted with Westfield World Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Reed Krakoff, Kate CELEBRITY TRENDSETTER: Singer and former “X-Factor” judge Trade Center, which recently partnered with Spade New York, Lane Bryant, MAC Cosmetics, Nicole Scherzinger demonstrated her eclectic and youthful style the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund to support the Coach Foundation, Maybelline New York, Sycamore all around London this week. For more, see WWD.com. emerging designers. Partners, Thecorner.com, Theory, Tiffany & Co., The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Selection Tumi, Westfield World Trade Center and Vogue. Committee will begin meeting with each final- For a second time, Ovation TV will show “The ist shortly. The committee consists of Diane Fashion Fund,” which documents the process, and FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA von Furstenberg, Anna Wintour, Andrew Rosen, is scheduled to air in November. @ WWD.com/social

TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. The 6-foot, 2-inch Australian COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. model Robyn Lawley is the face VOLUME 208, NO. 12. THURSDAY, JULY 17, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Violeta Line Launches in U.S. Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and for fall. The campaign carries two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine year, the line has expanded the tag line, “It suits me and I Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: By SHARON EDELSON S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, into France, Germany, Italy, the like it.” Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, Netherlands, Turkey, Russia For fall, khaki, crimson and a NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West VIOLETA BY MANGO is targeting and Saudi Arabia. The compa- range of grays are the key colors. Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 6356, the American plus-size woman. ny said it has invested 20 mil- There are military-inspired piec- Harlan, IA 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTION, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593, call 866-401-7801, or email customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfillment.com. The Spanish retailer lion euros, or $39 million, in es like parkas and cargo pants, Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address launched the full-figure collec- the launch. leather items and rocker styles, changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. tion today online in the U.S. The key to the brand, which with colors such as emerald If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with Violeta by Mango continues goes up to size 16, is the care taken green. Also in the collection are your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be to expand with a 2014 target in the technical pattern details enveloping maxi sweaters and mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request of 100 stores with an average from size to size and in being able delicate and feminine dresses to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. For reuse size of between 3,700 and 4,300 to offer a high-quality collection and blouses belted at the waist. permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. square feet. for any time of day. The collec- Mango, which arrived in the Occasionally we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we Sales volume is expected to tion, with more than 1,000 designs, U.S. in 2006, closed its 2013 fiscal believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593 or call 866-401-7801. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR reach 50 million euros or $67.6 is aimed at the “demanding and year with turnover of 1.8 billion DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED million, the company said. fashion-conscious woman who euros, or $2.49 billion, which rep- TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, Since the launch of the col- wants to feel attractive and sexy,” resented an increase of 9 percent UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND lection in Spain earlier this Mango said. over 2012. OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. WWD THURSDAY, JULY 17, 2014 3 WWD.COM

Dior’s Fusion sneaker.

Dior’s Fusion Footwear

By MARCY MEDINA Maxfield’s storefront. KEENAN HIGH FASHION has co-opted street style before, but Dior has raised the bar with its Fusion STEFANIE

Ashley BY sneakers, first shown during the Soraya Madekwe house’s spring haute couture Chuwanich show in January and newly ar- PHOTOS rived in its boutiques this month. Chuwanich paired her Fusions worn with an Elder Statesman A pop-up event at Colette with an ankle-length Mary T-shirt and Chanel necklace. Paris in late June kicked off the Katrantzou frock and a long “I’m of the age where I can’t global retail rollout, and Tuesday Loree Rodkin necklace. wear high heels anymore so I night’s fete at Maxfield in Los Carol Anne Werner of San love something that looks good Angeles marked the sole U.S. Francisco makes frequent trips to that I can walk around in, and event. (The $1,100 mesh slip-ons Los Angeles to shop at Maxfield. why not a bejeweled sneaker?” also sell at The Webster in Miami, Ye t she didn’t want to wait for the Producer Dana Garman was Blake in Chicago and Jeffrey in store’s event and instead bought looking to update her Céline New York, as well as at Bergdorf two pairs of sneakers at the Dior slides. “I have way too many Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue and ed to invest in,” she said. “Dior’s rubber soles. Beverly Hills boutique earlier in pairs of [those], since they have Neiman Marcus.) ready-to-wear is so close to cou- Meanwhile, Maxfield’s loyal the week. She was eyeing a third been going on for a couple of Dior has a cozy relationship ture and the pieces they make customers gave the Fusion their pair at Maxfield. “I like heels, years now,” she said. She bought with the storied Los Angeles are timeless.” own spin. Soraya Chuwanich too, but I really am excited about two pairs of Fusions, yellow for retailer, having hosted a party A mesh slip-on may not be from Thailand bought all four these,” Werner said. “It’s some- day and black for night. for Raf Simons’ first Dior ready- considered timeless yet (given styles. What she doesn’t carry thing fresh with a different spin And actress Ashley to-wear collection last year and where athleticwear is going home with her on her annual and very cleverly done.” She Madekwe, always on hand to sold out of many of its pieces in the market and in custom- visits, she enlists celebrity hair- paired her Fusions with Louis play paper doll for a designer, since then. The four Fusion er’s lives, that may very well stylist Chris McMillan to bring Vuitton sequin leggings and a Jil came wearing heels. Still, she styles will be at Maxfield until change soon), but for Simons, with him when he comes to Sander blouse. called herself “a sneaker girl, July 24, if they last that long. fusing urban influences with Thailand once a month to cut Local society maven Toni Nike Air Max if I’m honest. But “We’re almost sold out and the house’s heritage is key. her hair. Wald planned her entire outfit I do like the embellishment of we only started taking preorders Christian Dior’s love of garden- “I wear sneakers with every- around the Fusions she prepur- these,” Madekwe noted. “I’d on Monday,” said buyer Sarah ing is reflected in the delicate thing,” she said. “They can be chased at Maxfield on Monday. “I wear them with a short leather Stewart. “I bought these straight sequin flowers, paired with fu- dressy, funky or edgy and work even got my pants hemmed,” she skirt or girly shorts. I mean, you away; it was the footwear I decid- turistic elements like the neon with short or long.” On Tuesday, said of her Saint Laurent suit, can’t go wrong with Dior.”

H&M’s Kulle Talks Further N.Y. Expansion Plans Jeff Koons at the party.

supply chain secured. By SHARON EDELSON “Last year we promoted 1,000 people,” Kulle said, explaining that H&M is in- H&M WANTS an even bigger piece of vesting in talent to fuel its growth. “We Manhattan. have brand awareness and that drives At a party Tuesday to celebrate the traffic and allows us to invest more.” opening of its biggest store in the world, H&M’s sister brands are coming to a 57,000-square-foot unit at 589 Fifth the U.S. this year, as well. COS is open- Avenue and 48th Street, H&M revealed ing a store at 129 Spring Street in SoHo that it’s not done searching for loca- and & Other Stories is set to bow at tions in the city. “More stores and more 575 Broadway in SoHo. “We’ll see how brands,” said an enthusiastic Daniel we can grow in the U.S. with those two Kulle, president of H&M North America, brands in the coming years,” Kulle said. “We’re always going to surprise.” Asked about the possibility of one The new flagship will only hold the of the new brands taking over H&M’s title of biggest store until a 63,000-square- Fifth Avenue and 51st Street store, Dog was flashing on an LED screen. The foot unit opens in Herald Square later Kulle said, “We don’t know what we’re GEORGE CHINSEE flagship is closely associated with Koons, this year. But even with these behemoths, going to do. Nothing is decided. We Daniel Kulle at the H&M flagship party. whose retrospective at the Whitney H&M sees more potential. have different brands, COS and & Other Museum of Art is sponsored by H&M. “There are pockets in New York that Stories, and we’re expanding other of- PHOTOS BY Koons, for his part, seemed pleased we have not captured,” said Kulle. “We ferings. We judge our real estate port- laboration with Alexander Wang, launch- to see his art on a limited-edition hand- have nothing south of SoHo. There are folio carefully to see what can play in ing on Nov. 6, will be a sports-inspired bag and said he was wearing an H&M pockets on the Upper West Side and different locations.” “strong, commercial collection” that will suit. “I made beach towels before and I pockets in the boroughs. We’re going to H&M is planning to grow COS and & be sold in 40 stores and online. did a bottle for Dom Perignon,” he said, do more in the boroughs and more in Other stories in Canada, where it oper- Guests at the party listened to 18-year- listing his product design credits. Two Manhattan. We’re going to be very active.” ates 67 stores and has six more on the old British phenom Birdy’s brooding of his balloon dogs graced the facade of Kulle said H&M has reached critical way. The retailer opened three units in sounds. “I’m a huge fan of H&M and I love the building. “The original is 10 feet tall. mass in the U.S. “ Yo u get some scale with Mexico and is adding three more. that it’s been inspired by art,” she said of I wanted it to be mythic. To see it even over 300 stores,” he said. “We have our Kulle also revealed that H&M’s col- the flagship where Jeff Koons’ Balloon larger is wonderful.” 4 WWD THURSDAY, JULY 17, 2014 Busy, Busy, Busy for Berlin Fashion We e k

brant African prints are perfect for the By WWD STAFF Moda, ladylike woman and last year’s DFT Lala Berlin Sopopular Dawid [Designer for Tomorrow] winner, Ioana Tomaszewski BERLIN — Extreme construction, end-of- Ciolacu, has some more fun and quirky days downpours and — perhaps most im- pieces.” The six Berlin-sourced trunk portantly — soccer! Berlin Fashion Week shows will start the week of Aug. 11 and run had a lot to contend with this year. With through early September. 12 trade shows running July 8 to 10, plus Marubeni, the Japanese distribution more than 50 runway shows and stage pre- conglomerate, was back in Berlin for the sentations at the transplanted Mercedes- second season with several Japanese buy- Benz Fashion Week Berlin venue in ers who “are always looking for something Wedding and assorted off-site locations, new, something other shops in Japan don’t there was more than enough to keep visi- have,” according to Katsuhide Nakabo, tors busy. Or, rather, much too much, the sales executive at the Marubeni’s London ongoing consensus remains. agency. He skipped the runway shows Fair organizers have long stopped is- and attended Premium, Seek and Bread suing attendance figures, and with tens & Butter, finding potential in the clean, of thousands of soccer fans thronging to more minimal aesthetic favored by young Berlin’s fan mile for the World Cup, it’s designer labels. “Simple, German looks impossible to say how many trade visi- can be good for Japanese buyers,” said tors were in the German capital for fash- Nakabo. “Japanese women are looking for ion week. Nonetheless, Premium and more wearable, everyday clothes they can Panorama, now housed in the more cen- use for many occasions.” Marubeni expects tral Berlin fairgrounds, were undeniably to pick up three accessories lines found thronged opening day. Premium founder in Berlin, though they’re not all German: Anita Tillmann called it the show’s “best Brooklyn-based Tyoulip Sisters, Cologne’s edition ever.” Ibuh (scarves) and Berlin’s Levit (sandals). Most other fair organizers, including While most buyers and press can’t fit in Bread & Butter, reported good attendance the fairs and the MBFWB runway shows and a positive ordering environment, with in their schedules, it is precisely this dual non-domestic attendance significantly in- offer that makes Berlin Fashion Week creasing. Premium, for one, booked 73 per- special, according to KaDeWe chief and cent international visitors, with an increase Premium Group (KaDeWe, Alsterhaus, of southern European buyers in Berlin this Öberpollinger) managing director Andre season. Show & Order also reported a spike Maeder. “ Yo u will find this combination in attendees from European countries out- [of fairs and runway] nowhere else in the side Germany, as did a spokeswoman for world. We have this unique mix and, yes, 12 the label Lanius Köln, a fifth-time Ethical fairs are crazy and perhaps there should be Fashion exhibitor, who noted that many some consolidation, but they bring lots of European buyers were “now placing orders international buyers to Berlin.” on the spot.” Maeder and his team tried to make time Bread & Butter’s announcement that for both. Of the runway offerings, he said, it would be going “on the road” in 2015, “The good news is that Berlin is slightly returning to Barcelona in January, and different, a little more edgy, with new then showing in Berlin in July and Seoul designers coming up, like Tim Labenda, in September, raised eyebrows more than or others like Dorothee Schumacher or an uproar. Brands are taking a wait-and- Lala Berlin who have longer experience. see attitude toward joining the B&B tour, There’s lots of talent.” Michael Julian while Berlin’s other key players, includ- He also intends to increase KaDeWe’s in- Sontag Zigerli ing Mayor Klaus Wowereit, remained con- volvement and support of the city’s design- fidently relaxed. “The good thing is that ers. “We stand for top fashion in Germany, fashion week and Premium and Panorama have these beautiful windows, and can are all so strong that they can well cope,” host special events here,” he said of the he commented. Or, as Show & Order found- store’s flagship. But more to the point of er Venera Malta remarked, “The cards are local designers looking to sell, Maeder said, being reshuffled — we’ll see what happens. “We will finalize everything in the coming We love Berlin!” weeks, but we will certainly have more Premium was already in expansion mode home-base designers in our assortment in prior to the Bread & Butter news, with an the future.’” additional hall being built in the Station Berlin e-commerce giant Zalando was to house pre-collections as of the winter. also on the prowl, both at the fairs and the “Seek was incredibly good this season and runway shows. Mareile Osthus, head of we’re looking for more space. I think we buying and assortment women’s apparel, can double it,” Tillmann said of the “upper liked C’est Tout and Michalsky’s show. streetwear” show that features about 130 Conversely, Huy Thong Tran Mai, owner brands in the neighboring Kühlhaus. That of Berlin concept store Oukan, said he venue, in turn, will be used to house show- and his team “only visited a few runway rooms for brands interested in a more pri- shows” — among them, Hien Le, Perret vate presentation environment. Schaad, Augustin Teboul and Marina “We’re honestly thinking of alterna- Hoermanseder — “because they resemble tives,” Tillmann told WWD. “Brands don’t each other too much and look too commer- want to leave Berlin, and if we need to cial.” Oukan carries international brands seek a new format, we will. Berlin is solid. like Rad Hourani and Hussein Chalayan, The German economy is superstrong, and and local labels including Sopopular, Berlin is the most progressive and youngest Schmidttakahashi, Butterly Soulfire, city, which won’t change.” Thom Krom and Concis. He called trends Laiea Smith, vice president, market- in Berlin “very democratic. They develop ing and creative of Moda Operandi, con- out of the people and emerge from the curred. “The city is booming and so is streets. The music scene, as one factor, fashion and creativity,” she said. “Nothing plays an important role — hence, Berlin

is out of bounds. Berlin is at the nexus of remains exciting.” ASHION WEEK BERLIN F cool and creative, so you expect artistic “We always try to see new designers in and innovative.” Moda, the American on- Berlin like the ones Christiane Arp shows line luxury retailer known for combining at Vogue Salon,” said Mario Eimuth, chief designer trunk shows and e-commerce executive officer and founder of Munich- MERCEDES-BENZ for in-season pieces, was in Berlin for based luxury e-tailer Stylebop.com. “I the first time to discover new brands. “We have an open mind toward working with loved the range of avant-garde and com- new designers, but I need to be thoroughly mercial styles,” said Smith, who will intro- convinced” since new labels often struggle duce Dorothee Schumacher, Lala Berlin, with quality, pricing and late deliveries. Dawid Tomaszewski and Perret Schaad “Early deliveries are becoming more and to Moda customers. “Lena Hoschek’s vi- more important.” OF PHOTOS COURTESY

w17a004(5)a.indd 1 7/16/14 6:19 PM 07162014182110 WWD THURSDAY, JULY 17, 2014 5 Berlin Fashion We e kWWD.COM

Dawid Umasan Kilian Kerner Ivanman Perret Schaad Tomaszewski

Julian Marina Hien Le Lena Zigerli Hoermanseder Hoschek

FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE WWD.com/ runway.

6 WWD THURSDAY, JULY 17, 2014 Internet Sales Tax Bill Revived’’ in Senate

{Continued from page one} an exemption for small online businesses. sales taxes, regardless of whether they The other part of the legislation in- year,” said Michael P. Kercheval, presi- The new legislation, dubbed the have a physical presence in the state. It corporates a House-passed bill related to dent and chief executive officer of the “Marketplace and Internet Tax Fairness also provides for a small-seller exemp- Internet access and extends for 10 years International Council of Shopping Act,” combines two separate bills and es- tion that prohibits states from requiring a long-standing ban prohibiting states Centers. sentially maintains the same language on remote sellers with less than $1 million from levying taxes on Internet access or While Congress has been unable to Internet sales tax collection contained in in annual nationwide remote sales to col- multiple or discriminatory taxes on elec- find a resolution on the issue of tax- a bill the Senate passed last May. (That lect sales and use taxes. tronic commerce. ing Internet sales, states have been bill later stalled in the House and the The new legislation comes at a politi- enacting their own laws to close what new combined legislation is seen as a cally difficult time in Washington, right they say is a loophole created in 1992 way to revive it.) before the month-long Congressional re- in Quill vs. North Dakota, a Supreme In a joint fact sheet released [The bill] signals cess beginning in August and in advance Court ruling that stated retailers were Wednesday by the cosponsors of the new of the midterm Congressional elections required to collect sales tax from out- bill, the senators said the bill would “level that leveling the in November. of-state customers only if they have a the playing field for Main Street business- It could also potentially set up a show- “physical presence” in the customer’s es that are currently at a 5 to 10 percent playing field for down between the two chambers over state. E-tailers such as eBay and others competitive disadvantage because they Internet sales tax collection. that don’t have distribution centers or must collect sales and use taxes while a “The Senate sponsors decided they offices in a certain state have relied on growing number of remote sellers do not.” all retailers is a don’t want to wait for the House to act that decision to avoid collecting sales They also noted the bill will “provide and needed to force the issue, so they tax on online orders. Brick-and-mortar a pathway for states and localities across top priority for are taking at least one or two opportuni- retailers argue that puts them at a com- the country to collect an estimated $23 ties to send it back to the House on must- petitive price disadvantage and have billion annually in uncollected tax rev- Congress this year. pass pieces of legislation,” French said. lobbied for federal legislation to re- enue to balance their budgets by col- “It is going to be a difficult fight to get it solve the issue. lecting taxes already owed instead of in- — MICHAEL P. KERCHEVAL, through the House, but again you’ve got EBay has lobbied against such legisla- creasing taxes or cutting vital services.” determined sponsors in the Senate and tion, arguing that it would impose an un- The legislation allows states to col- INTERNATIONAL COUNCIL I am confident that eventually they can fair tax burden on small businesses that lect taxes on online sales in the 45 states OF SHOPPING CENTERS figure out how to get it across the House use its online platform and lobbying for and the District of Columbia that collect floor as well.”

Levi’s Preps 49ers Assortment Slow Growth Seen

By For B-t-s Spending ARNOLD J. KARR 49ers fan Olivia Zapalac HAVING PUT its name on the team’s new sports a LARGER BUDGETS for school cent to $212.35 from last year’s building, Levi’s is now looking to dress fans of modified supplies and electronics will hold mark of $199.05. the San Francisco 49ers. Trucker jacket. increases in back-to-school apparel The outlook for apparel spend- And it might be the start of a broader pro- spending to a’’ minimum this year. ing is somewhat better for the col- gram to co-brand Levi’s with other profes- That’s one of the findings of the lege group, although the budgeted sional franchises in football and other sports. National Retail Federation’s annu- amounts are less. Apparel expen- Levi Strauss & Co. last year paid $220 al Back-to-School Survey measur- ditures are expected to average million for the naming rights to the 49ers’ ing purchasing intentions among $138.73, up 13.1 percent from last new home in Santa Clara, Calif., and with 6,178 respondents interviewed year, and those for footwear are the ribbon-cutting for Levi’s Stadium set for during the first week of July. budgeted at $77.60, 18.3 percent today, Levi’s has’’ put the finishing touches Extrapolating consumers’ re- above the 2013 level. on the Levi’s x 49ers Collection, a group of sponses, NRF projected that pur- NRF noted that a number of jackets based on the brand’s classic Trucker chases for elementary, middle factors have worked against ex- model introduced 52 years ago. The jackets, panded b-t-s spending in the pre- in denim and twill, have been modified to college group, including a drop include the team’s logo in its distinct saloon in the number of children per font, lots of trim in the team’s colors of scar- household. A growing number of let and gold and varsity coat touches such as 0.7% school districts are also asking satin sleeves and ribbed knit cuffs. students to provide more of their Levi’s x 49ers will be available in August at DECREASE PREDICTED BY NRF own supplies this year, hurting the Levi’s stores in the Bay Area, on levi.com and apparel numbers even as footwear FOR ELEMENTARY, MIDDLE AND at 49ers team stores at Levi’s Stadium and appears to be poised for a strong elsewhere. HIGH SCHOOL PURCHASES. b-t-s push. For James Curleigh, president of the Levi’s “It’s not a bad year, but it’s not brand, the investment in the stadium and one we will stand up and cheer school and high school students about,” said Bill Thorne, senior will retreat 0.7 percent to $26.5 bil- vice president of communica- lion from $26.7 billion. tions and public affairs at NRF. If the arrangement with Levi’s relationship with its downtown San Spending by and for college “I would call it a longer-than-ex- Francisco neighbors, the Giants. When a mem- students — a number that skews pected hangover. There are a lot the 49ers works in year ber of the team hits a home run over “Levi’s higher because of costs incurred of good signs about the economy, Landing” in right field and into San Francisco by those living away from home but people aren’t seeing it on the one, it could expand Bay, occupants of the Landing receive a $50 — will expand 5.7 percent to $48.4 coupon that can be redeemed at a Levi’s store. billion, from $45.8 billion last year. to other teams and “If the arrangement with the 49ers works Together, the two groups’ total in year one, it could expand to other teams b-t-s expenditures are expected to and other sports, and not just in the U.S.,” pick up 3.3 percent to $74.9 billion. 5.7% other sports. Curleigh said. “We’re already getting calls For the precollegiate set, pur- from our people in other regions asking what chases of apparel and accessories — JAMES CURLEIGH, LEVI’S GROWTH PROJECTED IN SPENDING they can do to draw on this energy.” are expected to hit $231.30, an BY AND FOR COLLEGE STUDENTS. Curleigh said the company is investigat- increase of 0.2 percent over the nearly $100 million earmarked for advertising ing similar opportunities for tie-ins in the $230.85 budgeted last year. For the and promotion in the next few months, includ- music world. first time, NRF, using the services bottom line of their paychecks. If ing the new “Live in Levi’s” advertising cam- Levi’s is working to outfit 49ers personnel, of Prosper Insights & Analytics, anything, people are happy just to paign, are illustrations of Levi’s determina- such as the Gold Rush Cheerleaders, in Levi’s separated expenditures by the age have a paycheck.” tion to assert its leadership in global apparel merchandise, and fans wearing Levi’s to games of students and found $209.03 bud- Thorne noted that many house- and particularly in the denim market. will get free access to the Levi’s 501 Club, a loft geted for apparel for elementary holds are only now making pur- “When you watch a sporting event — vir- bar area that can accommodate 2,400. school children, $241.16 for mid- chases they’d put off in the after- tually any game — people wear their team’s “We’re essentially telling people, ‘Wear dle school students and $245.44 for math of the economic downturn, colors and they usually wear jeans on the bot- Levi’s to the game and good things will hap- high school students. automobiles and home improve- tom,” Curleigh told WWD. “The stadium really pen,” Curleigh said. At the same time, expenditures ment expenditures among them. opened our eyes about ways to connect with Levi’s Stadium officially opens to the pub- on footwear are expected to aver- “I think there’s a bit of an attitude fans. We’re not trying to compete in the ath- lic with a soccer game between the San Jose age $124.46, up 8.8 percent from of, ‘That’s nice, but I don’t know letic realm and take on the swooshes and the Earthquakes and Seattle Sounders on Aug. 2. $114.39 last year, while spending that I need to have it,’” he said. three stripes, but we are looking’’ for ways to The 49ers meet the Denver Broncos at home on school supplies will increase “There are things that students leverage our status as the unofficial brand of in a preseason game on Aug. 17 and play their 11.8 percent to $101.18 from $90.49 need for the first day of school fans in stadiums around the world.” first home game of the regular season against last year, and spending on elec- and others that might get put off Observant baseball fans are familiar with the Chicago Bears on Sept. 14. tronics is seen expanding 6.7 per- until holiday.” — A.J.K. WWD THURSDAY, JULY 17, 2014 7 WWD.COM

Kate’s friend having not spoken to the A number of double-barreled members Duchess in several years, punters are of the Italian aristocracy including FASHION SCOOPS still convinced the young couple have Osanna Visconti di Modrone, Maria Pia Ruspoli been making the most out of their new di Cerveteri and Ugo and Isabella Brachetti home, and the odds suggest a second Peretti will join French ambassador Alain nursery is imminent,” said Ladbrokes Le Roy and his wife Anne Fleury Le Roy and DOLL HOUSE: Karl Lagerfeld’s latest BETTING ON BABY: British betting agencies spokesperson Jessica Bridge. members of the fashion industry ranging collaboration involves what must including Coral and Ladbrokes have While these firms have closed the door from Carla Fendi, Silvia Venturini Fendi and her be the world’s smallest pair of suspended all bets regarding the on betting on another royal child, William daughter Delfina Delettrez, to Laudomia Pucci. fingerless gloves. They’re to fit the Duchess of Cambridge and whether Hill is keeping its books open for wagers. — LUISA ZARGANI dainty hands of Barbie Lagerfeld, she is pregnant once again, due “The betting suggests Prince George won’t a limited-edition doll being to a recent avalanche of wagers. have to wait too long for a sibling, but the IN THE BAG: Roger Vivier has tapped Ambra launched this fall by American According to an article in latest reports suggesting there is already Medda to front a booklet showcasing its toy giant Mattel Inc. and the the New Idea, an Australian a royal [baby] bump might be wide of the fall 2015 collection, which is centered iconic, Paris-based designer. magazine, Jessica Hay, a friend mark,” said William Hill spokesman Jon on the Miss Viv’ bag. It’s “practical and Part of the Barbie Collector of Kate Middleton’s from Ivan-Duke. — LORELEI MARFIL beautiful, precisely what makes good series, the doll is dressed Marlborough College, said: “Kate’s design,” according to Medda, the cool- according to the German inner circle are buzzing with the FASHION NIGHT IN MILAN: Vogue Italia chic cofounder of L’ArcoBaleno, an couturier’s custom: in a tailored news that she is pregnant. I’ve heard editor in chief Franca Sozzani held a press online platform for craft and design. black jacket, a white shirt with a it from several different friends of conference on Wednesday to reveal Originally created in 2009 for then- high collar and skinny black jeans. theirs now, and they’re saying that the date for the sixth edition of Milan’s first lady of France Carla Bruni-Sarkozy to Accessories are key, including a fat they think there’s going to be an Fashion Night Out, which will take place support her foundation, Miss Viv’ has necktie, dark sunglasses and black official announcement in weeks.” on Sept. 16, the day before the opening been revisited in leather, patent leather ankle boots. Kensington Palace said: “We do of the city’s women’s fashion week. and crocodile in a rich palette of colors Commented Kim Culmone, global not comment on rumors of this kind.” In order to keep the initiative fresh ranging from light pink to royal blue vice president of Barbie product Before Coral suspended betting, and appealing, Sozzani urged fashion and yellow. An evening version has been design: “It’s not everyday that the firm offered odds of 10-1 that the labels and boutiques to “create special done in satin with a rhinestone buckle. Barbie dresses like the world’s Duke of Cambridge and his wife would events, participating in a very proactive The bag comes in two different sizes and most famous fashion designer.” announce this month that way, maybe inviting celebrities is multifunctional, featuring both a short The outfit also recalls items they are expecting a second FOR MORE when it’s possible.” handle and a longer strap. in the women’s Karl Lagerfeld baby. “With Prince George’s SCOOPS, SEE Sozzani also said that, The new collaboration with Medda collection, hinged on the A sketch of first birthday just around this season, proceeds from also marks the debut of a limited-edition namesake designer’s graphic, the Barbie the corner, the latest WWD.com. the sale of the customized Miss Viv’ series, which, according to rock ’n’ roll-influenced style. Lagerfeld doll. gamble strongly indicates products available at the the company, will include new styles Additional details about that he could soon be different stores across Milan’s added every season. This fall’s Miss Viv’ the figurine and its distribution are to joined by a little brother or Golden Triangle and the Brera L’ArcoBaleno, named after Medda’s Web be released at a later date. Mattel is sister,” said Nicola McGeady, a spokeswoman and Corso Como districts, will benefit a site, whose moniker means rainbow in marking Barbie’s 55th birthday this year. for Coral. “In fact, there could even Milan-based organization promoting the Italian, is designed in multicolor sequins, — MILES SOCHA be double celebrations in the Windsor reeducation and integration in the work satin and silver metal details. That bag is household next Tuesday,” she added, environment of people in need. slated to hit stores in October. FORD GETS INSPIRED: Tom Ford can soon add referring to Prince George’s first birthday. Sozzani also teamed up with beverage The limited-edition Roger Vivier to his list of industry accolades, including Coral has now reported an influx of firm Martini, which will sponsor a contest booklet, photographed by creative CFDA Womenswear and Menswear wagers on the gender of the little royal’s for young photographers. The best images duo Sofia Sanchez and Mauro Mongiello Designer of the Year and Geoffrey Beene future sibling. “Suspending betting on of those taking part in the competition at the modernist atelier of French Lifetime Achievement Award, when he William and Kate announcing baby No. 2 will be included in an exhibition, opening architect Robert Mallet-Stevens, will receives the Award of Inspiration at has caused a betting frenzy, with punters in February to coincide with Milan be distributed starting this week at the amfAR’s fifth annual Inspiration Gala racing to place bets on the gender and Fashion Week. — ALESSANDRA TURRA brand’s 23 flagships worldwide and sent Los Angeles on Oct. 29. At the Inspiration baby name,” said McGeady. to its customers. — PAULINA SYMZDKE Gala, a celebration of men’s style, amfAR According to Coral, almost 70 percent GRAZIE MILLE: As a tribute to Italy and will recognize both his contributions to of bets have been placed on the Duchess a thank you to its local partners and Ambra Medda men’s wear design and his commitment of Cambridge giving birth to a baby boy, supporters, LVMH Moët Hennessy for Roger Vivier. to combating the AIDS crisis. which is the 10-11 favorite, while it’s Louis Vuitton will this evening hold a Ford has been a longtime supporter even money that Prince George gets a performance by Ukrainian classical of amfAR and an outspoken advocate little sister, with a number of wagers on concert pianist and jazz musician on behalf of people living with AIDS. twins at odds of 20-1. Dimitri Naïditch followed by a dinner at The event, to be held at Milk Studios, Regarding baby names, Coral noted Rome’s 16th-century Palazzo Farnese, is chaired by amfAR chairman Kenneth James as the favorite at 3-1, ahead of which houses the French Embassy. Cole, Bryan Lourd and Aileen Getty, and Alexander at 6-1, and Louis at 10-1. The event will be hosted by Pierre Godé, cochaired by Simon Halls and Matt Bomer. Elizabeth was noted as the top girls name at vice president of the French luxury Proceeds from the black-tie gala will 5-1, ahead of Diana at 6-1 and Victoria at 7-1. group; Pietro Beccari, chairman and chief benefit amfAR’s life-saving AIDS Ladbrokes is another agency that has executive officer of Fendi, and Jean- research initiatives. — MARCY MEDINA stopped taking bettors’ money. “Despite Christophe Babin, ceo of Bulgari.

DARKNESS FALLS: Alexander McQueen will MEMO PAD today unveil its fall ad campaign, which has been shot in London by Steven Klein, and stars Edie Campbell. The campaign MANAGING EDS PLAY MUSICAL CHAIRS: reflects the mood of the fall runway show, Managing editors were jumping from one and its “essence of romantic and wild media company to the next this week. beauty,” according to the brand. For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. Hearst-owned Marie Claire said Wednesday that it poached Glamour’s Nancy Gillen as its new managing editor. Gillen, who most recently Spaces served as managing editor for Condé Nast-owned COMMERCIAL Glamour since 2011, will start her new gig on Aug. 4 REAL ESTATE MANUFACTURER REPS WANTED High quality service Current reps make $100k+. Our fashi- and report to Marie Claire Pattern, sampling, duplicates on earbuds, iPhone cases sell in 5000+ editor in chief Anne Fulenwider. and small production. stores. If you sell to fashion accessory MK Fashion 212-768-7446 buyers, email: [email protected]. The appointment marks [email protected] Logistic Manager Needed for a a return for Gillen, who Hard Goods company. Track & manage ocean freight shipments. worked as managing editor PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Negotiate inland Freight. Working for Marie Claire’s sister 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes PRODUCTIONS knowledge of Retail-Link. Track Menswear Showrooms Full service shop to the trade. Customer PO through shipment. publication, Harper’s D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 Monitor Inventory Levels. Send Bazaar, from 2006 to 2011. A fall ad for Alexander McQueen, shot by Steven Klein. Resumes: [email protected] Gillen fills the managing editor A fragile and childlike Campbell spot left open by Alexandra Brez, who appears as a ghostly figure, half asleep has departed Hearst for Time Inc.’s on a carved wooden chair in a grand People magazine. but creepy home that’s seen better Meanwhile, Hollywoodlife.com days; she caresses a dark horse and hired veteran US Weekly staff editor lounges on an inky black bed while Carolyn Davis as its managing editor. dressed in a sheer, feathery gown. The company also promoted senior The ads will appear in the reporter Emily Longeretta to news editor. September issues of titles including Both editors started their new jobs American, British and Italian Vogue; on Tuesday and are based out of the Love; Another Magazine; American and New York offices of Hollywood Life British Harper’s Bazaar; Interview; (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] parent company Penske Media Corp. Vanity Fair, and W magazine. — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD — SAMANTHA CONTI 8 WWD THURSDAY, JULY 17, 2014 ’’ WWD.COM Rent the Runway Targets Fast Fashion

{Continued from page one} “It’s a new way to experience every- According to Hyman, this is the first can keep for as long as they wish. Users day style and trends and a new way to time Rent the Runway has ever used “ev- have the option to rent accessories on an take what’s currently in your wardrobe eryday clothing” in its styling, and the pho- individual basis for the traditional four- and amp it up. It takes you out of fast tography now captures how members can or eight-day rental period as well. fashion,” Hyman said. “This is about upgrade their style day-to-day. Stylist and The site has close to five million mem- transforming and disrupting the way you former Opening Ceremony buyer Kate bers with an average age of 29. Hyman and get dressed — which on one hand is let- Foley was tapped as a creative consultant cofounder Jennifer Fleiss, to oversee production of all who oversee a staff nearing creative assets on the site, style 300, have received $54.4 mil- It’s a new way to experience shoots and develop trend stories. lion in funding to date from Rent the Runway will also Highland Capital Partners, everyday style and trends and a further its retail efforts, giv- Bain Capital Ventures, Kleiner ing customers the option to Perkins Caufield & Byers and buy any items they’ve rented WWD parent Condé Nast. new way to take what’s currently on the site at a discounted More than 90 percent rate via a Try to Buy service of customers that Rent the in your wardrobe and amp it up. once the company official- Runway acquired last year ly relaunches in February. were through word of mouth, It takesyou out of fast fashion. Currently, the site allocates in- and its user base has grown ventory in a sale section. 126 percent year-over-year. The re-branding will touch Since February, the site has — JENNIFER HYMAN, RENT THE RUNWAY every aspect of the brand rented what would be the from editorials on the site (the equivalent of $300 million in retail value of ting you make the choice of: ‘Should I Unlimited business will publish new edi- dresses and accessories. Hyman predicts rent this or should I buy this?’ and sec- torials every two weeks) to garment bags. that this number will reach about $600 mil- ond, ‘How long should I rent this for?’” “A woman who is used to wearing fast lion by the end of the year — not including A multiphase branding strategy to el- fashion for her whole life suddenly puts the Unlimited business. evate the look and feel of the company on Carolina Herrera and suddenly she is Hyman added that the brand has be- is also being rolled out. Updated photog- like, ‘Oh my god.’ It’s this power in wear- come a massive experiential market- raphy and editorial content can be seen ing the real thing,” Hyman said. ing channel for the designer industry, on renttherunway.com, and even more “This business is here to save design- with more than 90 percent of customers changes — including a new logo and Web er fashion. [We have to] stop this addic- renting from brands that they’ve never site, as well as luxe packaging — will tion that we’ve had to disposable junk owned before. launch during the fourth quarter. ’’over the last 15 years.” Rent the Runway’s accessories page. U.S. Adds Russia Sanctions intelligence. “Because Russia has failed By KRISTI ELLIS to meet the basic standards of interna- tional conduct, we are acting today to WASHINGTON — The U.S. expanded open Russia’s financial services and sanctions against Russia on Wednesday energy sectors to sanctions and limit over its escalated insurgency into the access of two key Russian banks and Ukraine, targeting two key Russian finan- two key energy firms to U.S. sources of cial firms and two energy firms by limit- financing, and to impose blocking sanc- ing their access to U.S. capital markets. tions against eight arms firms and a set Senior Obama administration of- of senior Russian officials.” ficials, speaking on background, said Treasury officials imposed mea- the sanctions were unprecedented and sures against the two banks and two would likely have a significant impact energy firms prohibiting U.S. citizens on the Russian economy. from making transactions, providing fi- While the actions did not directly nancing or dealing in new debt of lon- Mario-Luca Carlucci impact the global fashion industry, ger than 90 days maturity or new eq- and Peter Strateas, right, the additional sanctions created un- uity for Gazprombank OAO and VEB. with their winning designs. certainty for U.S. brands selling into Gazprombank provides services to more the Russian market. In recent months, than 45,000 companies and 3 million pri- OF WOOLMARK PHOTO COURTESY however, several U.S. and European vate individuals, while VEB is a state- brands have cited a decline in interna- owned firm that acts as a development Australian Woolmark Winners Revealed tional travel by free-spending Russian bank and payment agent for the Russian tourists as impacting business, at least government, Treasury officials said. boys [Strateas and Carlucci] are also re- in the short term. The U.S. did not block the property By PATTY HUNTINGTON ally amazing tailors. I know that this The U.S. also imposed sanctions on or interests in the property of the banks money will be used at the right level be- eight defense technology firms, three and energy companies or prohibit SYDNEY — Designers Peter Strateas cause they will use it to feed the roots of separatists, four Russian government transactions with them beyond the spe- and Mario-Luca Carlucci, the duo be- their company and not just to try to grow officials and designated Feodosiya cific set of restrictions. hind the brand Strateas.Carlucci, won without knowing where they go.” Enterprises, a key shipping facil- “As a practical matter, this step will the Australian finals for the International It’s the second win in four months for ity in the Crimean peninsula, for being close the medium- and long-term U.S. Woolmark Prize in the men’s and wom- the Melbourne-based duo, who also won “complicit in the misappropriation of dollar lending window to these banks en’s categories. the Tiffany & Co. National Designer Award Ukrainian assets.” and will impose additional significant The pair beat seven other entrants at the Melbourne Fashion Festival in The most severe sanctions imposed costs on the Russian government for its in the categories. Men’s was introduced March, taking home a 100,000 Australian by the U.S. Treasury Department were continued activities in Ukraine,” the to the competition this year. They won a dollar, or $93,800, prize package. against two Russian financial firms, Treasury department said. combined 100,000 Australian dollars, or Since launching their premium label Gazprombank OAO and VEB, and two Asked about the reaction from the $93,800 at current exchange. in 2012 — after discontinuing an ear- Russian energy firms, OAO Novatek American business community, one se- Strateas.Carlucci’s winning tailored lier streetwear brand called Trimapee — and Rosneft. nior administration official said: “We looks included two coats made from a Strateas and Carlucci have established a “Given its continued provocations have heard time and again that the U.S. resin-coated, water-repellent hybrid following for their dark, androgynous “con- in the Ukraine, today I have approved business community understands the im- wool jacquard that was inspired by the structed” tailoring, which now sells to 25 a new set of sanctions on some of portance of a robust response to the un- late indigenous Australian artist Emily international stockists, including Russian Russia’s largest companies and finan- lawful activity of the Russian Federation Kame Kngwarreye and developed by the luxury department store chain Podium. cial institutions,” President Obama in the Crimea and in eastern Ukraine. duo with Japan’s Nikke textile mill. The new designers’ prize money will said. “We are freezing the assets of sev- “I think the notion that our busi- While some audience members on go toward the production of two super- eral Russian defense companies and nesses are not supportive of the U.S. Wednesday expressed surprise that one fine merino wool collections that will be we are blocking new financing of some government being forceful in address- brand had won both categories, competi- presented at the International Woolmark of Russia’s most important banks and ing this significant threat is mistaken,” tion judge Roland Mouret said the pan- finals next year. The men’s final will take energy companies. These sanctions are he said. They, like businesses every- el’s decision was unanimous. place in London in January and the wom- significant but they are also targeted where, want the burden to be shared “It’s not just for the creativity, because en’s in Beijing in March. and designed to have their maximum but in terms of understanding there are they’re all creative, it was about under- Earlier this week, Woolmark tapped impact on Russia while limiting any burdens to be borne for broader princi- standing how to try to be here in five Public School and M. Patmos as the spillover on American companies or ples beyond just the bottom line, I don’t years,” said Mouret, who is also in town winners of the U.S. competition. The those of our allies.” think our businesses have any difficulty to unveil his capsule merino wool collec- Emperor 1688 and Bird on a Wire won “Russia has continued to destabilize with that notion.” tion at Myer department store. “We saw the India and Middle East finals. Asger Ukraine and provide support for the The European Union was also amazing concepts, but some of them were Juel Larsen and Augustin Teboul took separatists, despite its statements to expected to reveal additional sanc- so emotional about it. We can’t send you home the European titles. The Asia finals the contrary,” said David S. Cohen, un- tions after a meeting in Brussels on to the next step. You’re not ready. These take place in Tokyo on Thursday. dersecretary for terrorism and financial Wednesday night. ONES TO TAILORED FOCUS WATCH Jack Spade is honing in on Brands to check out the men’s business, launching at the upcoming its first tailored clothing New York trade shows. collection. Page MW2 Pages MW10 and MW11

July 17, 2014

HICKEY REDUX Scotch & Soda’s cotton suit. Woolrich hat. Hickey Freeman Gets a Facelift

The venerable American label has been reinvented for the spring season.

by JEAN E. PALMIERI

A NEW DAY is about to dawn at Hickey Freeman. Since being acquired last fall by Grano Retail Holdings, the parent company of the Montreal-based Samuelsohn brand, the en- tire tailored clothing collection has been redesigned and Grano is investing millions into revamping the branding and marketing of the long-standing label. The spring collec- tion, which will be unveiled at an event at the company’s new penthouse showroom on 57th Street on Sunday, is the first under the Grano umbrella and the brand’s official debut. “We think we can double this business within five years,” Arnold Brant Silverstone, president and chief creative officer of Hickey Freeman Tailored Clothing and Samuelsohn, told WWD during an exclusive preview. Hickey currently does about $100 million at retail. Silverstone said he believes a doubling is more than attainable, pointing out that since his first collection for Samuelsohn hit the market in fall of 2011, that business has doubled and the collection has expanded its distribution into key department and special- ty stores across Canada and the U.S. Light “It is our goal to be the dominant North American company of luxury men’s manu- facturing and brands,” Silverstone declared. “We believe strongly in men’s, luxury and North American manufacturing.” He said Grano recently formed a new cor- Fantastic porate entity called LMAG, or Luxury Men’s Apparel Group, comprising Samuelsohn and Soft tailoring is one of Hickey Freeman, and this company is “cur- rently in serious discussions for another the major focuses for possible acquisition of a better-end North American furnishings manufacturer, which spring in everything from would fit perfectly within our group and complement our Samuelsohn and Hickey summer wools to dress-up Freeman businesses.” Last October, Grano bought all the tan- BADIA ALEX gible assets of the Hickey Freeman brand denim. Retailers will be — including its factory in Rochester from W Diamond Group, and signed a 40-year li- in New York next week BY STYLED cense with Authentic Brands Group, which for market, visiting trade purchased the Hickey Freeman label as

RE:QUEST; part of its acquisition of HMX Group last year, to produce the brand. shows and showrooms Since that time, Hickey has staffed up, hiring Negi Darsses as vice president of mar- to glean the latest and keting and communications; found and built the new showroom, and brought Toth + Co. greatest pieces for the on board to spearhead the re-branding. Over the past few years, the brand has season. For more on lost some luster, due in large part to the well-publicized financial difficulties of its the spring trends, see former management. A sizable percentage of the business is off-price and Silverstone said the goal is to reduce it to 10 percent

pages MW8 and MW9. MCLAIN MODEL: AT DRIVER MARTINEZ; RODOLFO or less. Grano pulled “millions of dollars”

BY PHOTO {Continued on page MW6} MW2 WWD THURSDAY, JULY 17, 2014 Men’s Week Jack Spade to Highlight Clothing by JEAN E. PALMIERI with Bemberg linings, said design retail for $98 to $148. the former Fifth & Pacific Cos. Inc. and in director Todd Magill. The single- There will also be a camel-hair topcoat, a February, Kate Spade & Co. began trading JACK SPADE is heightening its focus breasted silhouette offers a natural new addition, as well as a bonded trench for under the KATE ticker symbol on the on the men’s business this fall with the shoulder, raised two-button stance and fall, he said. New York Stock Exchange. The retail launch of its first tailored clothing a slightly shortened jacket. The lapel is For now, the collection is not being of- company has publicly stated it collection. narrow to complement today’s more fered at wholesale. “We want to launch in hopes to reach sales of $2 billion In mid-August, the men’s wear modern shirts and the jackets our direct-to-consumer channels,” said by the end of 2016, up from the division of Kate Spade & Co. will also offer a large inner pocket Xides. She noted that the Jack Spade stores $742 million it posted in 2013. introduce The Benton Suit to for cell phones and other will be retrofitted to include a dedicated suit To reach that goal, the cor- its 13 freestanding stores in the items. The pants are straight section and employees are being trained in poration is projecting growth in U.S., Asia and Europe, as well but have room in the thigh. fit and tailoring. Associates will measure all three of its nameplates: as online. The suits, which will “We don’t see our guy as a customers in the store and local tai- Kate Spade, Kate Spade be manufactured from Italian peacock,” Magill said. lors will be used to do the work. Saturday and Jack Spade. wool and offered in a variety of Even so, the clothing “This is a big cultural shift for “Jack is like Kate was traditional men’s wear patterns, will sport the brand’s sig- them,” she said of the employees. five years ago,” said Xides. will be sold as separates and re- nature pop of orange in the The clothing will be market- “It’s an emerging brand tail for $698 for the jackets and pocket linings, boutonniere ed digitally as well as at trunk with an amazing DNA.” She $298 for the pants. pocket and inner stitching. shows within the stores. If met declined to say what per- “We’ve always made smart The assortment will also with a warm reception from centage of overall sales the bags and modern bags and we’re include complementary shirts consumers, Xides said it could brand represents. doing so well with sportswear, this and ties. The dress shirts will be be wholesaled next year. “When The division was will help us move closer to creat- available in a spread collar model we do talk to our wholesale started in 1996 by found- ing more of a lifestyle brand,” in 80s two-ply cotton with shell partners, we will talk early and ers Kate and Andy Spade, said Melissa Xides, vice presi- buttons and a notch on the cuff. we’ll have credibility under our who began selling mes- dent of Jack Spade. Sportswear The Jack Spade signature orange belts,” she said. “But the first senger bags made from was introduced about four years GEORGE CHINSEE color will be used for the thread year is all about dialogue with waxed cotton and heavy ago and now accounts for one- on the final button. our consumers.” canvas. It opened its first third of the brand’s sales. Eight patterns will be offered, Xides said in order to reach store in Manhattan’s SoHo PHOTOS BY She said the company sees a Magill said, including window- more customers, Jack Spade neighborhood in 1999 and “void” in servicing its customer for panes, micro-stripes, micro-checks has lowered its prices, drop- now operates nine stores in his Monday-to-Friday needs and the and even a floral. The shirts will re- ping retails on the fall the U.S., three in Japan and suit offering fills “white space” in the tail for $168. sportswear assortment by one in London. market for a collection with a retail price Ties will be offered in knits 20 percent. “We want to be To accommodate the pro- under $1,000. and wovens and be a mix of sol- more accessible and cor- jected growth, Jack Spade The half-canvas suits will be avail- ids and patterns. Chambrays and rect the price-value rela- moved into a new showroom able in eight fabrics for fall includ- a woven version of the company’s tionship,” she said. in New York, three times the ing navy, chalk stripe, micro-hound- “googly eyes” pattern are among Kate Spade is the size of its prior office. stooth, glen plaid and tropical wool the offerings. The neckwear will only remaining brand of Looks from the clothing collection.

NAME: Public School x Jordan NY23 Ecko Taps Hip-Hop Artist for Ads Air Jordan Sneaker HISTORY: Public School, winner of the by DAVID YI hop artist B.o.B to front its campaign. The advertisement has the 2014 CFDA Menswear Designer of Year artist sporting sweatpants and a star-printed shirt against a bold and the U.S. International Woolmark ECKO UNLTD, owned by Iconix Brand Group Inc., is banking on and graphic background by the artist Claudio Limon. Prize for men’s wear, partnered with its next ad campaign to rev up interest from its target Gen Z mar- “If you talk to B.o.B, he’ll tell you he’s not a rapper, he’s not the Jordan brand to revamp the cult ket. The brand, best known in the late Nineties and early 2000s as a singer, producer or whatever. He is preaching ‘no genre,’” said classic Jordan 1 in a limited-edition a hip-hop line, is putting a heavy focus on resurrecting its busi- Ling. “He embodies a lot of frustrations we have as a brand. We’re PSNY/NY23. Inspired by New York ness and re-creating its overall image. not a hip-hop brand, a skate brand, we City, the hometown of designers Dao- Ecko will be returning to J.C. Penney appeal to a wide demographic.” Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, the Co. Inc. stores next week after an ab- He said that was key to connecting collaboration features a sleek, black sence of several years. with today’s customer. leather shoe and pebbled sole. “This is our first foray post-Seth “If you look at any teen’s iPhone DESIGN PHILOSOPHY: “New York City Gerszberg and Marc Ecko,” said James today, they don’t listen to one genre has long be an inspiration for Public Ling, vice president of marketing for the of music, they have a little this and a School men’s division of Iconix. “We’re trying to little that,” he said. “Teens don’t de- and also freshen it to that 2.0 level. We’re going fine themselves like they used to 20 In the provided after that 16-year-old consumer who years ago.” the theme didn’t know what Ecko was growing up The campaign will feature other SPOTLIGHT for the but is now discovering the brand.” notables as well, including Gilbert PSNY Air Ecko was founded in 1993 by Meléndez, a UFC fighter and Manny Jordan Marc Ecko with investments from his Santiago, a professional skater. “The sneaker,” The B.o.B ad. twin sister, Marci, and friend, Seth Hispanic consumer is a huge support- said Chow. Osborne added that “the city Gerszberg. Iconix bought a 51 percent er of the brand,” he said. is known for the love of basketball, its stake in 2009 and the remaining inter- The ads will run in Complex, busy streets and for its landscape, which est last year. Gerszberg is no longer involved in the label and Ecko Nylon Guys, UFC 360 magazine, and digitally on complex.com, helped us bring our vision to life.” is concentrating on his upscale contemporary label, Cut & Sew. HypeBeast and others. PRICE POINTS: $160 for the NY23. “It’s going to be interesting to see how the new generation The video portion of the advertorial will debut on Tuesday on KEY TAKEAWAY FOR THE SEASON: aligns with the rhino brand,” Ling said. complex.com and its affiliate Web sites. Ling also said there will The designers plan to gift 50 pairs, To appeal to the young man of today, Ecko has turned to hip- be a heavy push on Facebook and Instagram with sponsored ads. labeled “PSNY” on the back of the sneakers, to the friends and family of the Public School brand, and Jordan The offering will grow to 15 models for brand will release the NY23 edition to Snyder to do Footwear With Cole Haan fall. The inaugural collection includes soft retailers next year. leather-soled shoes as well as a chukka TODD SNYDER is jumping into the foot- together to create custom Cole Haan boot, Snyder said. wear business. Chelsea boots during Snyder’s fall fashion Snyder worked on the design with Cole The men’s wear designer has teamed presentation, and the relationship grew Haan’s global creative director, Walker with Cole Haan in a multiyear deal to cre- from there. MacWilliam, friends since they’d worked ate a new co-branded collection of shoes together at Polo Ralph Lauren many A look from the called Cole Haan & Todd Snyder. The years ago. new collection. brand will launch for spring. The collection is expected to “bring “I’ve always wanted to do shoes and the Cole Haan brand to a new custom- my history with the brand goes back er and the independent shops that to when I started in this business at carry the Todd Snyder brand today. Badowers in Des Moines, Iowa, where Moreover, Todd’s following in the Cole Haan was the number-one selling Japanese market will, undoubtedly, shoe,” he said. “I’ve been a fan of Cole embrace the collaboration when we Haan for years and have always admired “After our initial partnership, launch it at Todd’s Townhouse flagship their high-quality craftsmanship and I knew that we could bring a unique col- in Shibuya and our new Ginza location in American style.” His personal collection lection to consumers,” he said. Snyder said Tokyo,” said Andrew Dubin, senior vice numbers more than 30 pairs. he pored through Cole Haan’s archives president of merchandising at Cole Haan. Public School’s sneaker. Snyder said the two brands worked and developed eight styles with his spin. — J.E.P.

MW4 WWD THURSDAY, JULY 17, 2014 Men’s Week Surface to Air Teams Suitsupply Opens in South Africa With Band Chromeo by BAMBINA WISE for the brand’s campaigns — said that the South African duties at up to 45 percent FRENCH LABEL Surface to Air has teamed malls, particularly the nearby Hyde Park for imported clothing, keeping prices in with Canadian electro-funk band Chromeo on JOHANNESBURG — Suitsupply rarely Corner shopping center, are already satu- line with international retail prices was a a four-piece collection that will be available does things conventionally. rated with luxury brands. “While we felt challenge, but also a necessity. Suits start for fall. To launch its presence in South Africa, that something was definitely going on at around 4,000 South African rands, or Since 2007, the Parisian brand has influ- the Dutch tailored clothing retailer took in this market because of all the luxury just less than $400. enced the band’s artworks and music videos over a sprawling, colonial-style villa in the brands coming into the country, we didn’t When asked about a possible Cape with its biker-funk aesthetic. posh Johannesburg suburb of Hyde Park, want to compete for the same customers in Town presence, De Jong said: “African ex- Surface to Air’s founder Jérémie Rozan setting up a pop-up shop with a full range the same location.” pansion for us is nice, but it’s an experi- and Chromeo’s David Macklovitch and Patrick of merchandise on the main floor, from But being in Johannesburg first before ment. Strategically, our main growth is still Gemayel have been in talks for some time suits and shoes to accessories, and a tailor- Cape Town was important. “It’s the finan- in China and the U.S. And Europe is pretty about doing a fashion collaboration. “We’ve ing atelier upstairs, for the next six months. cial capital of South Africa. It’s possible to strong for us.” made their music videos, their records covers There’s very little by way of street-lev- have a very successful store in this city.” He said that when entering any new — it’s more than time that they start making el signage to indicate that a shop awaits He said that prior to entering the South market, the strategy is “to establish a some of our clothes in return,” said Rozan. behind the heavy iron gates, so anyone African market, Suitsupply already had an beachhead into a market and build the The collection reflects the personalities who ends up at Suitsupply does not do so existing online customer base in the coun- business at such a pace that it allows us of David Macklovitch (Dave 1) and Patrick by mistake. tr y. “We had some high-profile customers to secure quality of execution. In the U.S., Gemayel (P-Thugg) and includes a panther print “We chose a very destination kind ordering from us regularly, so a physical we have grown the business to 12 stores in in both a reversible bomber and silk shirt and of format,” explained Fokke de Jong, store was the logical next step.” three years, and we are planning to open leather perfecto jacket and pants. Prices range Suitsupply’s globe-trotting chief executive Open a little more than two weeks, another eight to 10 stores in markets like from $509 for the bomber to $953 for the leather officer, who was in town for the store’s for- the store has drawn customers who know L.A., San Francisco and Dallas in the next pants. The line will be available the first week mal opening earlier this month 12 months. This as a very of September at Surface to Air stores. before jetting off the next day Inside the South Africa store. manageable growth path in “Jérémie Rozan helmed the design of for Cape Town to shoot the relation to the existing stores. our ‘Fancy Footwork,’ ‘Business Casual’ and brand’s fall campaign. “We do [the same thing ‘White Women’ album covers,” Macklovitch “ Yo u really have to go out on] different continents. In told WWD. “He’s also the one who suggested and find us,” he added. “But Asia, we started a year ago to us that our keyboard stands should be once you do, you’ll discover with a successful store in women’s legs: the most iconic visual element an international and charming Shanghai and we’re open- of Chromeo. And he directed the videos for setup, in a nice, relaxing envi- ing a second and bigger ‘Night by Night,’ ‘Hot Mess’ as well as the ronment.” Indeed, it is a wel- store there this year, as well ‘White Women’ album trailer. coming space; when not a pop- as new stores in Singapore, “The dichotomy between my style and P’s up shop, the villa is an elegant Hong Kong and Chengdu, were pushed to the extreme with two match- and luxurious guesthouse. China. Parallel to that, our ing pieces on each side. For me, it was the total “We hope to move to a per- management structure in leather look: leather pants and superdetailed manent location after the six that region is growing, so it leather perfecto pieces. Yo u can wear them months are up,” said Tania can facilitate further growth together and feel like the signer from Judas Habimana, Suitsupply’s gen- there. In Europe, the econ- Priest, but they’re also really practical essen- eral manager for South Africa, omy is picking up and we tials when worn separately. Not enough men who also heads up the brand’s are expanding our existing wear leather jeans but they’re the easiest thing African expansion department. 40 stores there with several to pull off: just match them with a white T. ” “This place — with 120 square meters the brand from other locations or its new locations, among them are Moscow, — FREDERICK MARFIL [1,292 square feet] of retail area — has its online presence as well as new custom- Zurich, Madrid. In that context, our pres- charm; it gives that exclusive feel to our ers, according to Habimana. Among the ence in Africa is still in the earliest phase. customers, but it’s temporary. We don’t early bestsellers are the three-piece, With our opening in Johannesburg, we es- usually go into malls, just because you Blue Check Havana, a 130 winter-weight tablished our first beachhead, which could can’t give that level of service in a mall, Barberis wool fabric. “It’s a sharply tai- lead to further expansion, but there is no but this is an open adventure. We’re at the lored suit with a slim fit and a dandyish rollout plan for Africa yet.” start of it, so we’ll see how it goes.” feel,” Habimana said. Habimana added: “Africa is a dynamic De Jong, himself a frequent traveler Suitsupply is manufactured in China, and exciting market but a set roll-out plan Surface to Air and Chromeo to Africa — for the last couple of seasons but the fabrics, Habimana said, come is not our strategy. Instead, we’re staring will collaborate on a four- he has chosen Cape Town as the location mostly from Italy, in the Biella region. With small and adapting as we go.” piece collection for fall.

Man of MIKE TROUT: B- The Sociable Mr. Edelstein THE WEEK MATTHEW EDELSTEIN called in a lot of chips to Love the buzz cut; it launch Mr.Matthew. The Los Angeles Angels works well with his The stylist and fashion outfielder and Most hairline. And, at 22 editor, whose résumé in- years old, it enhances cludes Details and W maga- Valuable Player at his sex appeal. zines, introduced his men’s color-blocked T-shirt collec- Tuesday’s Major League tion in an unusual way on Baseball All-Star Game Although the shirt fits Tuesday — on Instagram. him well, the oversize He set up shop at a stu- plaid is reminiscent of a ERICKSEN KYLE needs to learn a few dio in East Williamsburg, tablecloth for a summer Models in looks from Mr.Matthew. Brooklyn, and, with the of the basic rules of picnic in the park. If help of casting director PHOTO BY men’s wear, including he wants to play with John Tan, put out a casting pattern, a smaller check call to emerging and in-demand mod- retailers who had seen some of the posts. matching the right or a vertical stripe would els. They arrived at the space in force, The T-shirts are clean, colorful be more appropriate. drawn by the relationship as well as the and sporty. “I’m superinspired by the pattern with the right lure of free pizza and beer. Edelstein clothes I wear to the gym,” he said. outfitted them in the T-shirts, photo- They retail for $88 to $98 and are avail- body type. graphed them and immediately posted able in six styles — two long sleeve and the images on Instagram. four short sleeve — in five colors per It’s an unfortunate spot for the buttons on the pocket. Nipple “Models love Instagram and style. They’re being sold through mr- Let’s hope it’s a promotional accessory tassels would add some pizazz. Instagram loves models,” he said. matthew.com. “I’m doing everything that comes with the bottle, otherwise He encouraged the men, includ- myself,” Edelstein said. “It’s supertight, leave the black and orange bracelets at ing Brodie Scott of Wilhelmina; Trevor but I think it has potential.” home until Halloween. Feehan, Richard Detwiler, Ilir Shanja Although the men’s line is new, and Luke Gernert of Citizen, and Edelstein is not a novice at being entre- Michael Bailey-Gates of Major, to “re- preneurial. He had designed a women’s gram” their photos and Tweet about the collection called Friends & Associates The Creative Recreation line as well. that was shuttered this year, and is also sneakers are a good The raw blue denim jeans They were shot by Sophie Elgort, credited with launching the online mag- choice for the look and are the ideal wash, however daughter of Vogue lensman Arthur azine Contributing Editor in 2008. his age bracket. And a narrower cut would help Elgort and sister of actor Ansel Elgort, “The business wasn’t sustainable,” he the oversize white welt slenderize him. styled by David Vandewal and groomed said of Friends & Associates, “but it was makes a real statement. by David von Cannon. a great learning experience. Now I’m By Wednesday morning, Edelstein applying the lessons I learned there to LTD./CORBIS HARRY PLUVIOSE./RETNA had 167 followers on Instagram and had this new venture.” — JEAN E. PALMIERI even gotten a call from a couple of large PHOTO BY

MW6 WWD THURSDAY, JULY 17, 2014 Men’s Week

Looks from the new Hickey Freeman collection. SULLIVAN STEPHEN BY PHOTOS NEW OWNERS UPDATE HICKEY LABEL {Continued from page MW1} months were an education. Then we started been refinished by a metal artist to look new worth of product out of the market to clean working on the new product in January. I again. “It’s like what we’re doing to Hickey,” up the distribution, he said; improved the looked at it as a blank canvas.” Silverstone said. “We’re restoring its luster.” product offering, and took margins down in He said Grano hosted focus groups of The showroom is intended to “illus- the double-digits. customers aged 45 and over as well as those trate that the Hickey man is a more rel- Hickey now is using high-end Italian or under 45 and found that “virtually everybody evant man,” Darsses said. “He’s urban, he’s English fabrics, hand-turned collars, a higher knew Hickey Freeman even if they didn’t plugged in and culturally savvy.” arm hole, working cuffs, horn buttons and wear it. So it was a great base to work with.” He’s also younger. In the past, Hickey’s scallop facing. Iridescent Bemberg linings “There’s a real warm and fuzzy feeling about primary customer was over 50 years old, but and softer shoulder pads are also part of Hickey,” said Darsses, “but the perception the target, while “still a gentleman,” is now the new collection. Two of the company’s fits was that it was boxy, heavy and not relevant.” 10 years younger, he said. were tweaked and carried forward, but the Enter Mike Toth of Toth + Co. The new ad campaign for spring will fea- rest of the collection is new as Grano works The Boston-based lifestyle branding firm ture black-and-white images with a shot of to create “a global luxury brand,” Silverstone has worked with such industry heavyweights the new signature gold color. said. “We believe we have the recipe,” he as Brooks Brothers, Tommy Hilfiger, Nautica But this is not the first time Hickey’s been said, adding that there’s “an opening in the and J. Crew, among others, and has a deep down this road. After Hartmarx went bankrupt market for an alternative to the Italians.” appreciation for American heritage. “He’s in 2009, Mumbai-based S. Kumars Nationwide Pricing will also be a distinguishing fac- so passionate about great American brands,” Ltd., or SKNL, emerged as a white knight to tor. While a Zegna suit traditionally retails Darsses said, adding that the company visited rescue the brands, forming HMX Group, ac- for close to $3,000, a full-canvas Hickey suit the Hickey Freeman archives, pulled up its quiring a 90 percent stake. It brought Doug will sell for $1,700. Sport coats will retail for old iconography and illustrations, pored over Williams in to run the company, hired Joseph $1,000 to $1,500. the fonts and lettering that had been used over Abboud to head design, shifted its headquar- “We’ll never outspend Zegna in terms of the years and “developed a visual landscape.” ters to New York City from Chicago and re- marketing,” he said, “but we can win in this Working closely with the Hickey team, vamped the product offering. But, despite its space by giving the absolute best value, pair- Toth created an updated label, replacing grand plans for the brand, SKNL ran into its ing full-canvas craftsmanship and a century the former burgundy background with a gold own financial bumps due to market conditions of tailoring heritage and knowledge with the color scheme, inspired by a tailor’s tape. The in India and couldn’t provide the level of invest- most special, innovative, unique and luxurious logo has also been tweaked to make it more ment it initially planned for HMX. of fabrics, interior ingredients and details.” contemporary without abandoning Hickey’s The first rumbling of liquidity issues at The collection is now segmented into six HICKEY IS THE long-standing history. The brand was estab- HMX began in spring 2012 and by that October, “chapters,” starting with the Traveler, which lished in 1899 and that date is used on some HMX was in bankruptcy proceedings. In will sell for $1,495 and offer wrinkle-free fab- AUTHENTIC AMERICAN of the marketing materials. Hickey Freeman December of that year, Authentic Brands rics and a “weightless construction.” Next is “ New York is also used in some instances, Group acquired the intellectual property as- the Tasmanian, a super 150s offering, fol- LUXURY PRODUCT. touting its Empire State roots. sets of HMX. So what makes Silverstone think lowed by the Super Merino, Silk Dreams and “Hickey is the authentic American luxury he can succeed when others have tried and Summer Blends. The top of the line is the THEY DRESSED product,” Silverstone said. “They dressed failed? “Previous management hadn’t done hand-tailored Bespoke collection, which will presidents and the Rat Pack. So it’s still fa- this [a turnaround] before,” he bristled, not- open with super 180s and retail for $2,500.” PRESIDENTS AND miliar, but fresher.” ing that his family has been in the apparel Silverstone said that although the brand That translated into the new showroom trade in Canada for three generations. “At has undergone “a total redo,” it wasn’t with- THE RAT PACK. SO IT’S as well, which is designed to look like a Samuelsohn, we doubled the size of the com- out a lot of forethought. “We didn’t go in and luxury men’s library where customers and pany in three years. We have the formula and change anything until we did our homework STILL FAMILIAR, retailers will be welcome to read a book, sip we know how to take a North American luxury and studied the customer, the target mar- an artisanal gin and relax. Every season, a company, dust it off and improve it.” ket and the competition,” he said. “We did BUT FRESHER.” new artist, author or liquor will be show- Looking ahead, Silverstone hinted that the same thing with Samuelsohn.” So, from — ARNOLD BRANT SILVERSTONE, cased. The furniture and fixtures are wood Grano is preparing to get more involved with October through February, he merely “ob- and metal and were made in America. its furnishings and sportswear offerings. In served” the business to “study what was HICKEY FREEMAN The centerpiece of the new space is a large addition, he’s planning to offer a younger- working and what wasn’t. The first eight TAILORED CLOTHING copper crest from the Hickey factory that has skewed collection for next year.

MW8 WWD THURSDAY, JULY 17, 2014 Men’s Week

Vince’s cotton and linen cardigan, Matiere’s Modal tank top and Crooks & Castles’ nylon pants. Ben Minko bracelet.

HOODED PARKAS CORDWELL KAYANA : T AN ST I SS HION A TEXTURED KNITS S FA ; RGANIC O HER T ARKWEA T S

ING STS US I T R A LVA T A HER Market Movers T ARKWEA

Summer luxe suedes, elevated loungewear and sleek ST

anoraks are among the key trends that will be featured ANDY at the New York trade shows next week. — ALEX BADIA Seven For All Mankind’s nylon and polyester coat, GROOMING BY

Gant Rugger’s ST; cotton jacket, E QU RE Todd Snyder’s T A Seven For All Mankind’s cotton T-shirt and suede jacket and Onia’s Avelon’s linen nylon trunks. Cutler pants. Cutler and DRIVER and Gross sunglasses. Gross sunglasses;

Woolrich belt. MCLAIN MODEL:

Vince’s suede jacket and cotton T-shirt with Todd Snyder’s cotton pants.

LUXE SUEDES

CHIC LOUNGEWEAR SPRING ANORAKS J.Lindeberg’s cotton and polyester sweatshirt, Todd Snyder’s cotton shirt and Scotch & Soda’s cotton sweatpants. Ben Minko bracelet.

w17b008(9)a;6.indd 8 7/16/14 5:28 PM 07162014172954 Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, JULY 17, 2014 MW9

Victorinox’s cotton, nylon and polyester jacket with Mark McNairy New Amsterdam’s cotton tank top and shorts. Ben Minko bracelet.

CORDWELL GRAPHIC STRIPES KAYANA : T AN ST I SS HION A S FA ; RGANIC O HER T ARKWEA T S

ING STS US I T R A LVA T A HER T ARKWEA ST

ANDY GROOMING BY ST; E QU RE

T A DRIVER MCLAIN MODEL:

PHOTOS BY RODOLFO MARTINEZ

w17b008(9)a.indd 9 7/16/14 5:20 PM 07162014172436 MW10 WWD THURSDAY, JULY 17, 2014 Men’s Week

IRON AND RESIN into a camouflage print. The entire collec- Katie Eary Surfwear meets motorcycle culture. That’s tion is composed of shirts, shorts, outerwear, the mantra Jackson Chandler of Iron and blazers and footwear, including chukka boots Resin followed when starting his company in collaboration with Generic Surplus. The three years ago. The California-based brand inspiration for the new season, he said, was caters to the man who is attuned to both surf rooted in his fascination with war culture. and motorcycle cultures on the West Coast, “I used British prisoners-of-war uni- a bridge between two worlds that Chandler forms, even adding a British broad arrow thought was missing in the market. print,” he said. There are elements of hippie, “We didn’t think there was one brand that frat boy and World War II culture as well. understood both the surf industry and mo- “I like poking fun at this frat boy Ivy torcycle culture,” he said. “We wanted some- League thing,” he said. That can be seen thing that wasn’t too com- in a whimsical varsity mercial or mass brand.” Iron and Resin jacket which is cut in The result is a line half, with one side in that mixes classic Western camouflage, its sleeve

JASON LLOYD EVANS JASON LLOYD heritage influences with in red, and the other in BY vintage fabrics to create navy, its sleeve in yellow. a modern nostalgic look. McNairy’s collection is PHOTO For shirts, the brand takes sold at retailers including inspiration from vintage Opening Ceremony, Odin, Aloha prints. American Rag, Harvey “We take fabrications Nichols and United from the past and bring Arrows, and it retails Ones to Watch them back,” he said. from $70 for accessories Brands to check out at the New York trade shows. “We’re taking what they to $595 for outerwear. did in the Fifties and “It’s nice to see that KATIE EARY “I have three brothers, each brother is a Sixties with flight satins people are enjoying [the What does a fashion student do after gradu- muse of mine — they are all completely dif- on surf boardshorts and clothes] but I don’t think ating from the Royal College of Art? E-mail ferent,” she said. “The only thing they have in bringing them to men about who’s wearing it or Nicola Formichetti. Such was the case for common is that they dress for themselves and who surf now. But the what demographic,” he British designer Katie Eary, who was given no one else. I love that. They all skateboard boardshorts they made said. “When I’m making her shot after reaching out to the then-Lady together. One’s in a band, one is at university in the past weren’t per- the clothes, I’m making Gaga stylist and current creative director at and one is a psychiatric nurse. If they like the formance stretch fabrics things for myself. To me, Diesel. Since that time, the designer has not collection, I know I’ve done a good job.” like we see today.” Miller’s it’s a hobby that happens only collaborated with Formichetti, but also For spring, Eary was inspired by a Dallas In addition to board- Oath to be a business. But I’m with retailers such as French Connection, rodeo. The Western-themed collection is a shorts, the brand offers lucky I get to make a living River Island, Topman, Grenson and Donda, mix of cowboy shirts and psychedelia with pants, shorts, knitwear, with my hobby.” — D.Y. Kanye West’s fashion label. bold vivid tops complete with bones, fish and wovens, fleece, outer- “I created my own company [after school] cacti prints in pink, purple and orange. wear and leather acces- MILLER’S OATH and it just organically grew,” she said of her The brand has dressed celebrities, includ- sories, including wallets, It was 1906 when the six brand, which was launched in 2010 and will ing West and Frank Ocean, and is sold at Mr key fobs and hats. For Miller brothers opened a be shown at Capsule. Porter, Harvey Nichols and Antonia, among next season, the brand’s trading post in the bur- The collection, Eary explained, is a mix others. Retail prices range from $60 to $368 inspiration wasn’t too far geoning town of Groton, of luxurious fabrics in an array of prints de- for a printed T-shirt, to $600 to $943 for shorts. from its core: mountains, S.D. Success soon fol- signed for the 17-year-old skater. — DAVID YI deserts and oceans. lowed and the Millers “We wanted to get expanded into a haber- dirty hues from the wash,” dashery/custom clothier Chandler said. “It was a where men could buy a heritage Southern kind of cashmere suit for $5. The dr y, airy feel.” store was in business for The collection, which 20 years, but then im- will be shown at Agenda, migration to the region will be expanded for spring with denim slowed and it was shuttered. [email protected] jackets, hybrid boardshorts, a corduroy Although it took a couple of generations, 011 44 20 7843 9460 jam-style short and lightweight jack- that love for the apparel industry resur- ets. The collection will also introduce a faced in 2010 when Derrick and Kirk Miller, Mexican-inspired Serape stripe blanket great-grandsons of those pioneers, launched Men’s Market Week 20–23 July 2014 that will also be sewn into denim. Miller’s Oath, a bespoke men’s clothing In terms of prices, jackets retail for brand. The brothers came to the business $195, boardshorts from $70 to $88, wo- with a strong pedigree: Derrick had worked Agenda Swear London Mrket Tateossian vens from $85 to $125, and accessories in design at Ralph Lauren and English shoe 21–22 July Tourne de Transmission 20–22 July The British Belt Company TSPTR Thompson from $35 to $325. Iron and Resin is sold at brand Barker Black, while Kirk cut his teeth Javits Centre North Javits Centre Hall 3A WD London Nordstrom, Aloha Sunday Supply Co., and at Paul Stuart and Thom Browne. 655 W 34th St 655 W 34th St Liberty Without Prejudice more than 50 stores internationally, includ- Previously available only at the Miller’s 20–22 July ing its own unit in Ventura, Calif. — D.Y. Oath store in New York’s TriBeCa neigh- Criminal Damage Alan Paine Knitwear Project & Project JustHype Pier 94, Augustus Hare borhood, the brand will introduce its first King Apparel 55th St @ 12th Avenue Barbour Sole NYC MARK McNAIRY off-the-rack collection at the MRket Mi-Pac Codis Maya 20–22 July NEW AMSTERDAM show’s Vanguard Gallery for spring. Anthony Miles Corgi “I think that somehow I got pinned “This is our first foray into ready- Art Comes First Javits Centre Capsule Daines & Hathaway 11th Ave @ 36th St as preppy Ivy League but really I’m to-wear,” Derrick Miller said. The Ben Sherman 21–22 July Dents Heritage Collection the furthest thing from it,” said Mark initial offering will include suits, jack- Blood Brother Basketball City, Derek Rose Frank Wright McNairy, of the commonly held ets, shirts, accessories and swim Christys’ Pier 36 South St/ Drake’s French Connection notion of his aesthetic. “My trunks. The collection is all made Endrime Montgomery St Edward Green Gola Classics clothes speak rebellion.” in America and the “aesthetic is Flying Horse Jeans Elizabeth Parker England Linda Farrow H by Hudson The designer, who’s been masculine,” he explained. Baartmans & Siegel Fer Sanders Northern Cobbler busy working on his own Mark The design harkens back to Fred Perry Fox Umbrellas Ted Baker London OHW? McNairy New Amsterdam col- those haberdashery days with Frescobol Carioca Lambton London Realm & Empire lection while simultaneously their one-button silhouette with Garbstore London Badge & Gloverall Supreme Being Button Company juggling duties as a creative a cutaway front, slanted pockets Grenson Weekend Offender Mackintosh UKFTorg on facebook director at Woolrich Woolen and nipped-in waist. The pants Hancock Mills and collaborator at are higher rise with a button fly Mark/Giusti #britsaroundtheworld Katie Eary MAN Olney Headwear Adidas, said that his design ap- and a single right-rear pocket. Lavenham 21–23 July Pantherella @UKFTorg proach has had a punk attitude. Fabrics tend to be on the heavi- Lazy Oaf Industria Superstudio Penrose London “With it, there are elements er side, with tweed and beefier Maharishi 775 Washington Street Richard James Hosiery of all sorts of Americana,” he wools one of the hallmarks, along MöStudior Scott & Charters said of the line that will be shown with the brand’s pickaxe logo. Mulo Lot 78 Scott-Nichol at Capsule. Suits will retail for $1,495 to YMC Native Youth Seaward & Stearn Though he’s become best known $2,295, sport coats for $1,295, trou- Neuba London for his footwear, it’s his signature sers for $395 to $495, ties for $165, Pointer Footwear Simon Carter camouflage prints (with the occasion- pocket squares for $110 and swim- al yellow ducks swimming on them) in suits for $225, Kirk Miller said. This various colors on shoes, coats and out- is about half the cost of the Miller’s erwear that put him on the sartorial Oath bespoke product. map. McNairy said his use of the print The brothers are hoping to dates back to his first — and now de- attract both big and small re- funct — women’s collection years ago. tailers with the new collection. The love affair still exists today in his They’re already working with latest men’s collection. Bloomingdale’s and are targeting For spring, McNairy has infused Mark McNairy smaller specialty stores as well. a rainbow tie-dye with indigo mixed New Amsterdam But for whomever signs on, Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, JULY 17, 2014 MW11

Underground there’s one thing for certain: the Millers vow blend but models are also available in nylon won’t be shocking but will com- Visionaries paign to take over the ma- to maintain a certain integrity in their col- stretch and Spanish seersucker, for example. plement what we’re doing then chines and get the busi- lection. “Our name is a promise between us The shorts offer a soft textured mesh on the as we are today.” ness started, the brand and our customers for a certain quality and inside and antique nickel hardware details The offering is composed launched a year ago and is aesthetic,” Derrick Miller said. embossed with the brand name that have of ankle-grazing caftans, sold at retailers including His brother added: “And a promise to our been specially built for water submersion. Henley shirts and scarfed Brooklyn Denim Co., Lone family that we’re upholding the tradition.” Onia’s signature style is the Calder trunk, hoodies made from light cot- Flag in California, Wheat — JEAN E. PALMIERI which looks like a chino but can also be ton oxfords or a tri-blend & Co. in Nashville and worn in a pool. It’s available in a variety of of poly-cotton-rayon. All of Kinfolk in New York City. MOKUYOBI THREADS lengths. While solids remain a hallmark of the fabrics are sourced from “We imagine our Is Thursday the new Friday? Ask Julie the brand, Onia has branched into patterns Japan. The aesthetic, Mimou products for the young Pinzur of the bag line Mokuyobi Threads, as well, joining with Liberty of London to said, is loose and comfortable, Williamsburg dad,” said and she’ll try to convince you that it is. rework some of its historic prints into inno- but still durable and versatile. Livingston, whose back- “Thursdays are all about being excited vative swimwear looks. Polos, Henleys and “I think that design is just a ground included the now- for the weekend,” she said. “It’s all about T-shirts round out of the offering. translation of what I see and defunct apparel brand that anticipation. We wanted that excite- In recent seasons, Onia has started to incor- what comes up,” he said. Ferris. “We don’t want to ment in our products too, which is why we porate more “active-inspired swimwear” into Mimou is self-taught when be too trendy. Our whole took the Japanese word for Thursday and its offering, Roman said, and its new bonded it comes to fashion, having thing is longevity and created our brand.” short has made the biggest splash at retail this learned most of his techniques — pattern- shelf life. We want to be the go-to brand for a Pinzur’s Brooklyn-based line of bags summer. The stretch-solid fabric is laser-cut making, stitching and digitizing sketches — guy’s favorite shirt.” takes inspiration from the mélange of bright and fused together with a special machine that from the factory workers who produce his The Knickerbocker collection includes colors in Japan, she said, and includes hats, uses no stitches and is virtually tear-proof. line. To jump-start his business, he secured shirts, sweaters, shorts, leather goods and accessories such as wallets, backpacks, mes- For spring, Onia will be introducing a private investors, partnered with a business- hats, with retail prices that range from $65 senger and tote bags in a whimsical array half-elastic chino short and pant and will man and also hired a full-time employee — for T-shirts to $500 for outerwear. Everything of bright, color-blocked hues. Her signature expand its assortment with Liberty. Tie- without the help of his parents. is made in New York City. “Our tag line is best-selling, three-in-one Bedford bag trans- dyed stripe prints and a new Montrose For spring, Mimou said he was inspired ‘Made by us in New York,’ and that’s really forms into a backpack/messenger/tote bag. shoe built out of swim fabric with eye- by the urban settings of Europe and important to us,” he said. “There are a lot of Pinzur began her design career at lets and drawcords will also be offered. Los Angeles and the way people cultural influences that we get from the city, Parsons and, while studying illustration, The swimwear retails for $120 to $195, dress in metropolitan cities. though it is heritage-based.” launched the brand after studying abroad T-shirts for $65 to $85, and the col- The collection includes a That’s especially true of the hats. in Tokyo in 2006. It wasn’t until 2011, how- lection is found at department Windbreaker for $700, a “They’re actually made by our master hatter, ever, that she started working on it full-time. and specialty stores includ- raw brim hat for $300 Felix [Pantaleon], who’s been making hats And after a Kickstarter campaign, Pinzur ing Barneys New York, and a poncho for $500. for more than 30 years,” Livingston said. “He received funds to begin her business. Since Saks Fifth Avenue, For fall, he plans to add was the same guy who was at the original then, the brand has been sold in Urban Rothmans and Onia trousers starting at $300 factory and came along with us.” Outfitters and other smaller boutiques. others. Onia and a blazer starting at $700. For spring, Knickerbocker will move into The customer Pinzur designs for is a “cre- has also dab- With its wholesale launch coming bottoms, including selvage chinos. The brand ative, urban individual” between 18 and 32 bled in third- at Liberty Fairs, the teenager is hoping to will also introduce a preshrunk basic T-shirt years old, who “likes to have fun,” she said. party collabora- open doors in an adult world. But some- line made of heavyweight cotton and expand In the past, Pinzur has used various tions, working with Theory and Steven times his youth still shows. its offering in wovens. There will also be a themes as inspirations. Alan on their swimwear offerings. The collec- “There’s a quote — my favorite quote shirt-jacket inspired by a vintage lapel-less “I’ve done an Australian theme and tion will be in the Tents at Project. — J.E.P. actually — from [rapper] Theophilus suit he spotted in a vintage photograph. thought what would come out of there if I London,” he said. “Clothes don’t make “The design made us really want went,” she said. “And then I did a ‘Moonrise UNDERGROUND VISIONARIES the man. The man makes the clothes.” to get focused on outerwear,” he said, Kingdom’ theme that was more like an out- Ask the creative director of Underground — D.Y. noting that denim jackets, wax canvas doorsy one full of camping, bears, raincoats, Visionaries who his target customer is and Knickerbocker vests and other pieces KNICKERBOCKER maps and a compass.” he’ll reply that he is a “creative, urban man in Manufacturing Co. will also be offered. For spring, Pinzur will follow an interga- his 20s or 30s who’s a businessperson seeking MANUFACTURING CO. Along with outer- lactic theme focusing on unique silhouettes something great in life.” This, coming from What used to be a 60-year-old wear, headwear will be a prime in galaxy-inspired prints. It will include wal- 18-year-old Ibrahim Mimou from Walnut, headwear factory at the intersec- focus as well. “We run a lot lets, laptop cases and a graphic backpack Calif., who just started his freshman year in tion between Queens and Brooklyn of basic men’s hats from Ivy with a large front pocket. The bags will come college and launched his firm one year ago. is now home to the Knickerbocker League, newsboys and oth- in two prints in purple and coral. The color “I don’t think about my age much, these Manufacturing Co., a young heritage ers in wool herringbone and palette focuses on pastels in purple, mint, are things that I like and I definitely always brand that focuses on heritage-in- lamb’s wool,” he said. navy and corals. wanted to get into fashion as soon as pos- spired apparel and leather goods. Which goes full circle Retail prices for the brand, which will be sible,” he said of the line that will be shown “A 60-year-old guy, Mr. Watman, with the history of the shown at Agenda, includes backpacks from $85 at Liberty Fairs. had no one to pass the factory down brand and its very name. to $120, hats from $45, and wallets from $32. The sportswear collection is all about to and I became close to him so “The Knickerbockers — D.Y. “timeless elegance for everyday wear,” he said. he passed it to me,” said Andrew were the first baseball Mokuyobi “That’s the overall aesthetic and philosophy. Livingston, co-owner of the brand. team to wear a baseball Threads I want pieces that a few years down the line After launching a Kickstarter cam- cap,” he said. — D.Y.

ONIA Onia was founded out of frustration. Carl Cunow was working at Steven Alan and had a hard time finding a swimsuit that fit his style, so he teamed with Nathan Romano to launch Onia, a brand that strad- dles the line between swim trunks and summer shorts. “It all started with the concept of hybrid suits,” said Romano, who also serves as director of sales for Onia, which means “ship” in Hebrew. “They look like normal

walk shorts from the outside, but, JESSUP DEANE internally, they’re a swimsuit.” Since launching at Barneys New York in 2010, Onia has made a name for itself with guys “lost in beachwear purgatory,” according to its Web site. The brand’s signa-

ture cloth is a soft cotton-nylon KNICKERBOCKER PHOTO BY