Top U.S.The Travel DestinationsInside: Pg. 16 STORES LAUD TAX-CUT PLAN/3 JUICY’S NEW PAD/10 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’THURSDAY Daily Newspaper • January 18, 2007 • $2.00 List Sportswear Sitting Pretty Primping ain’t easy, but designers are doing their part this season with an assortment of frothy numbers with a retro feel. Here, Faviana’s polyester charmeuse dress, worn with a 1928 Jewelry necklace and Steve Madden shoes, photographed at Rita Hazan Salon in New York. For more prom looks, see pages 6 and 7.

Next Step for Jones: Group Is Said Mulling Possibility of Breakup By Vicki M. Young NEW YORK — ION ASSISTANT: JULIA COLLIER; SYLED BY DAVID YASSKY DAVID JULIA COLLIER; SYLED BY ION ASSISTANT: After an aborted auction of the entire company last year, Jones Apparel Group may be contemplating plan B: a breakup. Financial and industry sources said tentative “feelers” have been extended to various parties regarding their interest in the Nine West group and the upscale specialty chain Barneys New York. Jones’ chief financial officer Efthimio Sotos declined comment Wednesday. No bank appears to have been appointed to advise the company on any possible breakup. Should Jones be successful in breaking See Jones, Page 15 PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; MODEL: CARLY/NEW YORK; HAIR BY NELSON VERCHER AND MAKEUP BY RAMY GAFNI, BOTH AT RITA HAZAN SALON; FASH HAZAN SALON; RITA GAFNI, BOTH AT RAMY AND MAKEUP BY NELSON VERCHER HAIR BY YORK; GEORGE CHINSEE; MODEL: CARLY/NEW PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION ™ Getting ready in style will be easy this prom season because designers 6 have created looks that are short, colorful and frilly. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL After a failed auction of the whole company last year, Jones Apparel 1 Group has moved on to Plan B: split up the various parts of the fi rm. THE NEW BUSINESS CASUAL The Mills Corp., the beleaguered real estate investment trust, agreed to Women Establish a Balance between Relaxed and Professional 3 be acquired by Brookfi eld Asset Management for $7.5 billion. “It’s simple, it’s classic; it says ‘I’ve arrived’,” DENIM: Perry White has returned to the fabric that helped him start his in Boston, MA. The prevailing new world order in 8 career in fashion with the launch of his fi rst full denim collection. coos actress Melanie Griffith as Working Girl Tess workplace fashion might best be described as one of blended rules and exceptions. “Everything is more BEAT: Juicy Couture is looking to squeeze out a bigger share of the New McGill, hoping to convince a dubious Joan Cusack York market with its third city store opening Friday on Bleecker Street. as to a garment’s worthiness in a famous scene from relaxed,” Enright completes. 10 the classic 1988 film. One huge exception to yesterday’s rules is denim The Bush administration began collecting data on Vietnamese imports, As the beloved protagonist in in the office. What was once 12 kicking off a controversial program that could lead to imposing duties. the movie learns, workplace considered a working fabric for A rift between House and Senate Democrats has arisen over tying a wardrobes reflect the prevailing cleaning the house or fixing up 12 minimum wage increase to tax breaks for small businesses. popular culture and business the car is now a highly acceptable December wholesale prices on U.S.-made women’s and girls’ apparel environment. Going with the garment for the workplace. 12 fell 0.4 percent for the month and 0.7 percent from a year earlier. pervasive flow is one way of Denim has earned its place in the charting a course to professional workplace, particularly when it’s a EYE success. Evidence the power- clean and dark wash version, says From the sea to the shore, some shows, shops and eateries to hit during driven, dress-for-success 1980’s, Paige Adams-Geller, founder of 4 the Paris haute couture shows taking place next week. the near 180-degree turn a decade the popular Paige Premium later in the dot-com, dress- Denim line. “When you have a Classifi ed Advertisements...... 18-19 downed 1990’s, and now, the clean and sophisticated jean, it To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. blended balance found in fashion can be a staple of your wardrobe [email protected], using the individual’s name. in today’s fully accessible and for work or any place else.” WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT global world. Current fashions And when it comes to jeans ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 193, NO. 13. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one meld soft knits, like cotton and the workplace, denim is back additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three sweaters, with crisp classics, like in black. “Darker gray and over- additional issues in February, April, September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance “Women are certainly finding their Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by khakis, denim, woven tops and dyed black washes are coming in Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive comfort levels with dressing pencil skirts for a relaxed yet to play again and that only helps Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human casually for work by adhering to Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail polished appearance. add to denim’s place in the Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return maintaining a safe balance between undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: “Women today are able to strike corporate environment,” tells SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA their individual style and their 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE an even chord between the power Adams-Geller. “Darker washes, INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit suit of yesteryear and the anything- company’s culture.” particularly in a trouser cut, can www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new — Jeannine McShane, subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production goes slouchy separates of more go a long way as a pant and that correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, human resources consultant please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other recent years,” offers Linda has a role in a corporate world.” Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. DeFranco, Senior Product Trend Denim is clearly a favorite pick for If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA women for personal or professional pursuits; 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, Forecaster with Cotton Incorporated. “They are OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, taking advantage of the wide variety of options in according to the Monitor, on average, female BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR skirts, trousers, sweaters, blouses, dresses, jeans and respondents wore jeans 3.94 days a week. CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY jackets, and they are mixing and matching and Keep it simple and it’s very easy to master casual A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. layering them for a modern look that is stylish as dressing at work, explains Gretchen Petrone, Product well as office appropriate.” Line Manager at L.L. Bean, the national retailer. “Women are certainly finding their comfort levels “Find a classic garment, like a chino, a cable sweater, with dressing casually for work by adhering to a woven top, a good jean, a corduroy bottom and In Brief maintaining a safe balance between educate yourself in finding the right fit; that is so important. “ ● TJX Cos. said Wednesday that an unknown their individual style and their Is Casual Day Appropriate TJX DATA THEFT: company’s culture,” says Jeannine Fit is certainly important, amount of data relating to debit, check and credit card transac- McShane a Central Florida based for the Workplace? confirms McShane, the consultant, tions had been stolen from its internal databases, and could human resources consultant. particularly when garments that affect T.J. Maxx, Marshalls, HomeGoods, A.J. Wright and pos- 06 Q2 05 Q2 cling or fit snuggly can send the sibly Bob’s Stores customers. Shoppers in Canada, Puerto Rico “Basically, you want to fit in, but to and the U.K., where the company operates stores under several YES 84.1% 81.9% also stand apart in your own way, wrong message. “You do not want different banners, might also be affected. The Framingham, and not look like a cookie cutter NO 11.3% 15.0% to call attention to yourself for Mass.-based retailer said it retained investigators to determine version of every one else on a regular anything other than your work the extent of the theft and added security measures to prevent weekday or a casual Friday.” performance,” she entails. “It’s also further break-ins. It released no further details. Customers When asked by the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle important to remember that aside from style, making should “carefully review their credit card and debit card state- Monitor™ if their offices had a casual day, a sure that garments fit properly and are free from ments and account information for unauthorized use,” said Ben resounding 60.5% of female respondents affirmed stains and snags is very important. Sounds simple, Cammarata, chairman and acting chief executive offi cer. that theirs did. On average, female respondents but a clean and neat ensemble is key.” This is posing ● WAL-MART HEALTH RULING: A U.S. appeals court ruled 2-1 stated that they dressed casually 1.58 days a week at a challenge for many, since ironing has become an on Wednesday that Maryland violated federal law by requiring work. As the experts attest, employees seem to be increasingly undesirable chore. According to the Wal-Mart to boost spending on health insurance for employ- on their way to getting it right when dressing Monitor, 76% of respondents still iron garments at ees. The state legislature last year passed a measure to compel casually; 57.9% of female respondents in the home, when necessary. However, this figure has major employers to spend the equivalent of 8 percent of their second quarter of 2006 indicated that they did not declined 5% over last year, elevating the percentage payrolls on health care, targeting the bill at one company — Wal- think that people had begun dressing too casually of those who say they would simply wear the garment Mart — and triggering similar moves in other states. In uphold- ing a lower court decision, the appeals court panel concluded on casual day, up slightly from the 55.9% making wrinkled to 11%. that Maryland violated a law intended to permit an employer to the same claim in the same period in 2005. When Mastering the new business casual actually boils create a uniform system of health benefits nationwide. asked if casual day was appropriate, 84.1% of down to an old-fashioned practice. “If you have a females said yes, up 2.2 points from the 81.9% in doubt, don’t wear it, simple as that,” DeFranco from ● WILLIAMS EXITS WARNACO: Roger Williams has resigned 2005. In fact, women seem to have embraced the Cotton Incorporated encourages. “Trust your gut as group president of swimwear for Warnaco Group Inc., cit- new business casual so much, an astounding 98.1% and you will look absolutely right.” ing personal reasons. Williams, who held the post since May of female respondents believed casual dressing This story is one in a series of articles based on find- 2002, could not be reached for comment on his plans. Warnaco has initiated a search to fi ll the job, but in the interim, Speedo ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ should be practiced all year long and not just in president Sherry Waterson and Paula Schneider, president of certain seasons; that number is up considerably tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these designer swimwear, will share responsibilities and report to from the 89.8% affirming that belief a year earlier. pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it Joe Gromek, Warnaco’s president and chief executive offi cer. “There is a definite softening in dressing today; relates to the American consumer and her attitudes blazers are giving way to long knit cardigans and and behavior regarding clothing, ● STORMY WEATHER: A sleet and ice storm Wednesday morn- other soft sweater offerings,” offers Tess Enright, a appearance, fashion, fiber selection and ing delayed or prevented the opening of some retailers in Dallas. co-owner of Tess and Carlos, a duo of tony boutiques many other timely, relevant subjects. Stores at NorthPark Center, Galleria Dallas and Highland Park Village shopping center were among those affected. However, roads had thawed by afternoon and most businesses were open. WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 18, 2007 3 WWD.COM Bloomberg Seeks to Eliminate NYC Apparel Tax

By Rosemary Feitelberg and Sharon Edelson Mayor Bloomberg’s proposal would save shoppers about $110 million a year. NEW YORK — Mayor Michael Bloomberg’s proposal to eliminate the city’s 4 percent sales tax on clothing was welcome news Wednesday to retail executives. The mayor put forward a total of $1 billion in tax cuts during his sixth annual State of the City address, delivered at the New York City College of Technology in Brooklyn. That fi gure includes $750 million of property tax cuts. Early in his speech, Bloomberg said that, last year, the city’s unemployment was at an all-time low and its bond rating was at an all-time high. While the plan to do away with the apparel tax was met with general support from retail executives, it will require approval from the state Legislature and Gov. Eliot Spitzer. However, purchased items would still be subject to the state and MTA tax, totaling 4.375 percent. Even so, retailers said that would be an improvement compared with the current 8.375 percent city, state and MTA tax. If the 4 percent tax cut is approved, it would save taxpayers an estimated $110 million annually. The mayor said, “To make sure that shoppers and visitors continue to fl ock to great stores in all fi ve boroughs, we will totally elimi- nate the city sales tax for all clothing and footwear.” The only states that have no sales tax at all are Alaska, Delaware, Ore- Mayor gon, New Hampshire and Montana, Michael although in Whitefi sh, Mont., there Bloomberg is a city sales tax. However, neigh- boring New Jersey exempts clothing Gould said when tax is waived on more people and commerce and revenue, it sounds like from sales tax, a move made years ago clothes and shoes costing less than a win-win situation.” to boost the state’s retail sector. The $110, which is currently the case, there’s Retailers at the high end of the spectrum were not clothing sales tax in other big cities var- no appreciable difference. “Will people the only ones who were enthusiastic about the prospect. ies, from 9 percent in Chicago, 8.5 percent spend more because they don’t have a Marsha Wilson, ceo of Daffy’s, said, “We think it would be in San Francisco and 8.25 percent in Los tax?” Gould said. “I don’t know. I can’t quan- good for the consumer, good for the economy and good Angeles to 5.75 percent in Washington, D.C. tify it.” for New York. It will make a measurable difference in Michael Celestino, executive vice president of Should the tax cut come to fruition, that could be our business. It will make New York more competitive.” stores for Barneys New York, said of Bloomberg’s plan, an added incentive for visitors to shop in the city, es- Robert Chavez, president and ceo of Hermès USA, said, “In the long term, it will be benefi cial, but it’s still not a pecially Europeans who have been making the most of “Any time you eliminate an additional tax on retail sales, situation where there’s no tax like New Jersey. There’s the weak dollar by shopping here. Last year, a record 44 it’s going to help. Between state and local taxes, New York still that 4 percent tax. There’s no ceiling, which could million people visited the city, the mayor said. He also has one of the highest sales taxes in the country.” clearly benefi t us because in the past when they’ve done announced the launch of NYC Clean Streets, a $1.6 bil- Elimination of the city tax would be a step forward. tax-free weeks on apparel and footwear under $110, it’s lion initiative geared toward cleaning up the commer- “I was pretty excited to hear about it. It [would] no lon- had little effect on us because of our price points. It will cial corridors in all fi ve boroughs. ger apply just to items priced at $110 and below. It can be an advantage, but it’s not going to be sweeping like Another retailer, Jeffrey Kalinsky, founder of Jeffrey be signifi cant, even at the luxury level. If you’re talking gangbusters.” New York, said of the sales tax-cut plan, “That would about a $10,000 handbag and eliminate 3 percent, it’s Michael Gould, chairman and chief executive offi cer be a tremendous deal. That would give the person who still a nice amount of money,” Chavez said. of Bloomingdale’s, said it remains to be seen whether lives in New York State an added incentive. The more The sales tax break would be meaningful to Hermès permanently eliminating the city sales tax will have a expensive the item that’s not being taxed, the more sig- customers who shop for gifts once or twice a year, he profound effect on consumer spending. He noted that nifi cant the savings and the more meaningful it is to the said. “It will help make New York more competitive. the occasional no-tax week for merchandise priced for customer. It will benefi t everybody at all price points, Right now, it’s a no-brainer to go to New Jersey. This as much as $500 results in “an appreciable difference but I actually think it will be really good for the luxury may make people think twice. It may be the fi rst step and an increase in the business.” market. Everyone loves a savings. If it’s going to bring toward eliminating the state tax.” Dana Buchman Names Wilson Creative Head Mills Corp. to Be Acquired for $7.5B By Amy S. Choi and $25.50 per share and gave Chaim Katzman, oving into its third decade in business, Dana chairman of Gazit-Globe, a controlling position in MBuchman is turning a page. he Mills Corp. may finally be at the end of its the company. Next fall’s collection will be the fi rst designed with Ttroubles. The beleaguered real estate invest- The acquisition by Brookfi eld, however, might Max X. Wilson as creative director. Wilson may be best ment trust, which last week conceded that it was not mean the end of such proposals. “We cannot known in industry circles for his 11-year stint at Polo considering bankruptcy, agreed Wednesday to be rule out the possibility that Gazit and other large Ralph Lauren. He is expected to bring a more modern acquired by Brookfield Asset Management for $7.5 holders could exert enough influence to force edge to the bridge brand, which has lost some luster in billion, including debt and preferred stock. Brookfi eld to raise its offer,” wrote Ross Nussbaum, recent years and faced challenges at retail. Mills common stockholders will receive $21 per senior equity analyst for Bank of America. Still, “Now that we are a lifestyle brand, I wanted some- share, an 18 percent premium over Tuesday’s clos- “we don’t expect Farallon or Gazit to submit offers one to bring this fresh perspective,” said Buchman, who ing price of $17.77 a share. Shares rose 26.4 percent for the whole company.” serves as vice president of design. “We share the same to close at $22.46 at end of trading on Wednesday. Mills announced last week that it was consider- philosophy and sensibility for designer clothing.” Brookfi eld, a global asset manager with more than ing bankruptcy if it could not pay down its Goldman Before joining Dana Buchman last November, Wilson $50 billion in property in the U.S., will merge The loan, which matures on March 31 of this year. The held a variety of senior design posts on Seventh Avenue. Mills into a newly formed subsidiary and provide debt company has been courting bidders for nearly a He joined Sean John as vice president of design for wom- fi nancing to the REIT until the merger is complete, year, but while other prominent retail REITs, in- en’s apparel in August 2004 and left in April 2005. Before assuming Mills’ remaining $1 billion senior term loan cluding Simon Property Group and General Growth that, he worked at Polo, where he began as associate de- from Goldman Sachs. Brookfi eld, though the major- Properties, expressed interest in a one-off purchase signer in 1993, and then succeeded Maggie Norris as vice ity of its real estate portfolio is in high-quality offi ce of certain key properties, a wholesale acquisition president of women’s design in 1998. Previously, Wilson buildings, maintains a $1 billion portfolio of underper- of the company seemed unlikely. In the second half had worked on Calvin Klein’s women’s collection. forming properties that includes retail real estate. of 2006, the REIT shed many of its controversial, Most recently, there was speculation that Wilson The deal comes just days after hedge fund large-scale development projects — including the would take a top design role at John Varvatos. In his new Farallon Capital Management and Israeli real es- massive Meadowlands Xanadu in New Jersey and job at Dana Buchman, Wilson will work directly with tate company Gazit-Globe Ltd., both major Mills a major development stake in 108 N. State Street, the namesake founder and report to company president shareholders, offered separate plans to infuse the better known as Block 37, in downtown Chicago Laura Dubin-Wander. REIT with cash. Farallon, which owns 11 percent — in order to make a purchase more attractive. The “He will be concentrating mostly on Collection, mak- of the stock, offered a $499 million recapitalization REIT’s cloudy fi nancial situation (it hasn’t reported ing sure that it’s modern, updated and luxurious, while plan. Gazit-Globe, which owns 9.7 percent of the earnings in more than a year) has also dissuaded at the same time watching over the Casual and DB Life stock, proposed a $1.8 billion cash infusion to pay most investors from buying the company. collections so that they all share the same aesthetic and off the Goldman Sachs debt. This is the Israeli com- The merger was approved unanimously by Mills’ address the same lifestyle,” Buchman said. pany’s third offer to Mills. Two earlier proposals in board and is subject to shareholder vote. The deal — Marc Karimzadeh the fourth quarter of 2006 offered between $24.50 is expected to close in the second half of 2007. BLOOMBERG PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY BLOOMBERG 4 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 18, 2007 WWD.COM

John F. Kennedy and Jackie VUITTON ON THE WAVES Kennedy, spectators at the You could be forgiven if you mistook America’s Cup, 1962. some of the sailing images on display Paris Scene at the Espace Louis Vuitton gallery From the sea to the shore, here are some shows, here for fashion layouts. Consider a grainy, black-and-white Frank Beken shops and eateries to hit during the couture. photo of skipper Charles Nicholson, circa 1934, racing the America’s The interior Cup in rough waters at more than of 15 cent 15. 25 knots, natty and unruffl ed in a blazer, tie and cuffed linen trousers. Then there’s an Edwin Levick shot of a young crew from the same era relaxing below deck after a race, all dressed in white tank tops and pants, groomed and handsome as Bruce Weber models. For its fourth exhibition at the sprawling, permanent gallery atop its fl agship boutique on the Champs-Elysées here, Vuitton chose to tell the 156-year history of the America’s Cup and Louis Vuitton Cup through artistic images that provoke a variety of emotions, whether awe (at artfully billowed sails), puzzlement (at an CHEERS abstract close-up of a 24-ton keel) A shot of Louis French designer Olivier Gagnère just overhauled the 15 cent or bemusement (at the sight of billowing Vuitton 15, the lounge bar at the Hôtel Marignan Champs-Elysées, with a British boat decked out with a sails by Act 7. striped velvet, large chandeliers and subdued lighting. The fi replace, hunting trophies, Persian Morris lounge is like an extension of the adjoining Ducasse Spoon carpets and animal skins). Bruno Rosenfeld. and Wine restaurant and is headed by young chef Stephane Troublé, curator of the exhibition, Colé, while bartender Jérôme Bréard serves cocktails until 1 noted that the latter boat, owing to a.m. Colé’s lunch menu offers options like a tandoori chicken its lavish interior, was so heavy that club sandwich or a simple endive salad with nuts as well as it didn’t stand a chance in the race. light desserts. Tapas reign at night. Troublé, who is also the 15 cent 15: 12 Rue de Marignan, 75008; 331-40-76-34-56 spokesman for the Louis Vuitton

PHOTO BY PHILIPPE SCHAFF PHOTO BY Cup, uncovered many never- before-seen photos, including a stash of Levick treasures that RESURRECTING FATH were only recently uncovered, and Eric Tibusch, who cut his teeth with Jean Paul Gaultier, hopes added some arresting, waterlogged there’s still gas left in the house of Jacques Fath. The house video works by artists Ange Leccia has had moderate fortunes since the death of its founder in and Jean-François Julian. ACT 7 PHOTO BY CARLO BORLENGHI; KENNEDYS COURTESY OF LOUIS VUITTON OF LOUIS COURTESY BORLENGHI; KENNEDYS CARLO ACT 7 PHOTO BY the Fifties but, last year, Decitex — a French manufacturer Fashion folk will surely make that makes clothes under license for Azzaro, Adam Jones and a beeline for a series of color-drenched 1962 images of Jackie and John F. Kennedy watching Carven — purchased the Fath license for 10 years. Tibusch, 35, a regatta or relaxing on deck, with a teenage John Kerry in view in some. Troublé chose to debuted his own couture collection last July and was tapped broadcast excerpts of a Kennedy speech about the sea and sailing that he considers among the by Decitex in September. Tibusch’s fi rst designs for the house most poignant ever voiced. “All of us have, in our veins, the exact percentage of salt that exists in will be unveiled to buyers in a showroom presentation during the ocean, and therefore, we have salt in our blood, in our sweat, in our tears,” the late American the couture. The designer said the president said. A Fath fi rst pieces concentrate on daywear Exertion is plain in many of the older racing images, one showing 42 crew members straining look. and that more evening items would to hoist a sail weighing some 1,800 pounds. The exhibition certainly glorifi es the sea and sailing, be shown to buyers in March. “I was in fury and calm, the water resembling molten lead in some photos; synthetic sails as forbidding very inspired by Fath himself,” said as swords in another. Titled “Wind and Sails,” the show runs through April 16, the date the Louis Tibusch. “He had a remarkable Vuitton Cup races kick off in Valencia, Spain, with the America’s Cup following from June 23. way of cutting. The feeling is very French overall and very PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTO BY upscale with a lot of details in The Five Hotel. the pieces.” SMALL STUFF Tibusch said he planned to With its 24 rooms show his Fath collection in a runway located on a quiet presentation in July. Meanwhile, he street in the 5th is developing his own label and will arrondissement, show his fi rst ready-to-wear collection the Five Hotel alongside his own couture line, which is the smallest he plans to present Jan. 23. designer hotel to recently open in Paris. The petite rooms VINTAGE VETERAN have a sensual Delphine Sztarkman, a French stylist, is bringing a bit of pizzazz atmosphere with to the Paris vintage retailing scene with her new boutique fi beroptic, color-change lighting integrated into the bedroom Sztark.Vintage. The store features an eclectic mix from the likes ceilings and bathroom tiles and Dyptique essential oils on of Paul Poiret to Thierry Mugler, with a bit of archival Jean display. Meanwhile, Isabelle Emmerique’s enamel artwork Paul Gaultier and Lanvin thrown in for good measure. “I’ve contributes to the refi ned design ambiance. A standard room been collecting clothes since I was 14,” said Sztarkman, who goes for 150 euros, or $194, while the suite with private Jacuzzi has a vintage lace and button “bar” where customers can fi nd and patio costs 270 euros, or $349. the wares to spice up their old confections. “If I feel a dress is a Combat by Tom Sachs. Five Hotel: 3 Rue Flatters, 75005; 331-43-31-74-21

little bland, I’ll add a bit of trimming or change the buttons.” CHRISTOPHE BIELSA PHOTO BY Sztark.Vintage, 4 bis rue d’Uzès, 75002; 331-42-36-87-97 PEEPING TOM One of the hottest art exhibits this month is DOLL FACE American artist Tom Sachs’ Known for her articulated doll show at Paris’ Thaddaeus pendants, jewelry designer Ropac gallery, in the Servane Gaxotte recently Marais. Sachs, who has opened her fi rst boutique in explored fashion in some Saint Germain. The 200-square- of his work, is taking an foot space features baroque equally prickly subject by wall fi xtures from which dangle The new Sztark. the horns this time: His new Gaxotte’s artisanal creations. Vintage shop in Paris. sculptures and drawings The store also offers fl ea-market explore the relationship bric-a-brac and complementary between survival and art installations. One quirky destruction. The show runs decoration by French artist until Feb. 24. Kalou, for example, depicts a Galerie Thaddaeus giant dolly made from nails. Ropac, 7 rue Debelleyme, Servane Gaxotte, 55 rue des St 75003; 331-42-72-99-00 Servane Gaxotte’s doll pendants. Peres, 75006; 331-42-84-39-93 MORE BRILLIANT WOMEN’S BRANDS THAN EVER BEFORE!

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WINTERS NEWLIFE BY LOTTA STENSSON SHARED FOR A COMPLETE LIST OF ALL 1300+ BRANDS INCLUDING WOMEN’S, MEN’S, KID’S AND ACCESSORIES AND FOR REGISTRATION INFORMATION, CHECK OUT WWW.PROJECTSHOW.COM P ROJ E CT LV F E B 14 15 16 SA ND S E X P O 6 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 18, 2007

Betsey Johnson’s polyester and nylon dress. Candies sandals.

All Dolled Getting ready in style is easy this prom season, and the message is clear: Short, colorful and Up frilly is the way to go. WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 18, 2007 7 WWD.COM

Jessica McClintock’s polyester and nylon dress. Bracelet from Isaac Manevitz for Ben-Amun; Stuart Weitzman shoes.

Love Tease’s Silk and nylon and rayon cotton dress dress. Sportmax from ECI New headband; York. Alexis Betsey Johnson Bittar ring. ring; Stuart Weitzman shoes. GAFNI, BOTH AT RITA HAZAN SALON; FASHION ASSISTANT: JULIA COLLIER; SYLED BY DAVID YASSKY DAVID JULIA COLLIER; SYLED BY ASSISTANT: FASHION HAZAN SALON; RITA GAFNI, BOTH AT PHOTOGRAPHED BY GEORGE CHINSEE AT RITA HAZAN SALON, NEW YORK; MODEL: CARLY/NEW YORK; HAIR BY NELSON VERCHER AND MAKEUP BY RAMY RAMY AND MAKEUP BY NELSON VERCHER HAIR BY YORK; MODEL: CARLY/NEW NEW YORK; HAZAN SALON, RITA GEORGE CHINSEE AT BY PHOTOGRAPHED 8 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 18, 2007 WWD.COM Denim Dish Full Circle for Perry White Perry White has returned to the fabric that helped him start his career in fashion with the launch of his The new Royalcheese Deluxe store. fi rst full denim collection. Noah Tyler Denim, named after White’s 13-year- old son, Noah, and 17-year-old daughter, Tyler, bowed last fall as a response to the extreme styles and em- bellishments he saw permeating the denim market. “Everything seemed to be so contrived and so over- processed or over the top,” said White, an apparel veteran who has served design stints with Looks from brands such as Guess, Bebe and Noah Tyler. Arden B. “I felt there was a need for something much cleaner and in her wardrobe and they will endure,” a little easier to wear. I wanted said White of his target customer. to bring sensibility to denim.” Styles draw on his background in White’s connection to fash- the suiting business. The collection’s ion and denim stretches back fi ts include boot-cut, trouser-fi t, wide- to his childhood. leg and cropped trousers, knee-length “The reason I’m in this busi- shorts and short shorts. White is also Seconds of Royalcheese ness is because that’s the way one of the few denim players that has our mom supported our fam- committed to sourcing and manufactur- Paris denim gurus Catherine Leung and Nordine ily,” said White. “I grew up ing domestically, a strategy most in the Yousfi are sticking with a food theme when it comes watching her construct wed- industry shun as being too costly. The to retail expansion. ding dresses, prom dresses and line uses fabric from Cone Denim and The husband-and-wife team launched their fi rst bridesmaids dresses.” is manufactured in Los Angeles. boutique, Royalcheese, eight years ago, and recent- By the time he reached his “It was important to me because ly opened their second, Royalcheese Deluxe. The teenage years, White was exper- it became such a fad to say I’m using store, located at 3 Rue Mandar in Paris’ cobbled imenting with his own creations Turkish or Japanese fabric, when we Montorgueil district, is in the heart of the city’s using denim he purchased by have beautiful denim that is available streetwear and skatewear hub. the bale in Los Angeles. to us that is American-made,” said “The name was kind of a joke,” said Leung, who “I’d make patched denim White, who added that he felt the shift christened her Royalcheese shops after the French bags, purses, skirts and, at 14, toward sourcing and manufacturing name for a McDonald’s hamburger. “We didn’t want I’d go to swap meets and sell overseas simply took money out of the to take ourselves too seriously. Deluxe was funny as it,” said White. “I’m 45 now, but U.S. and put it elsewhere. the store is far from luxurious.” at 14 I didn’t know what a fashion designer was.” The line sells for $144 to $160 at retail and is avail- The store, with its psychedelic dressing room For Noah Tyler, White is focused on producing able in about 30 boutiques. White believes that num- curtains and stacks and racks of clothing crammed clean looks and designs for a fashion-savvy consumer ber could triple next season and has already garnered together, is more disheveled than deluxe. However, who isn’t looking to buy the style of the moment. interest from Nordstrom. the Royalcheeses have become the local denim “She’s ultimately looking for things that she can put — Ross Tucker dives of choice for trendy teens and twentysome- things. While listening to their iPods, they scour the area for the city’s hottest denim fi nds and trendy streetwear. “That’s our customer prototype,” Leung said. Here and Leung and Yousfi opened their fi rst location at 24 American Chi Lights Up left: LEDs Rue Tiquetonne almost eight years ago before the are used area became a major denim thoroughfare. Today, Contemporary clothing label American Chi is introducing the to create they stock brands such as April 77, Cheap Monday, next evolution in back-pocket styling. animated Edwin and Lee. While other brands spent the last several years embroi- back-pocket “Streetwear styles in France have a specifi c dering and studding their back pockets with diamonds and designs. Parisian edge,” Leung said. “Girls will pair their Swarovski crystals, American Chi has used technology to cre- denim with the little scarf knotted at the neck, a ate pocket designs that light up and even move. pretty jacket and a cool bag.” Dalia MacPhee, designer and one of the line’s owners, said Popular streetwear brands from Japan, the the Canadian company has been able to animate back pocket U.K. and the U.S. include Stussy, 2K T-shirts and designs by weaving light-emitting diodes — or LEDs — into Backhand, as well as home-grown street and skate the fabric. talents like Sessun or Sixpack. “One minute the jeans are normal, the next minute you see “We are increasing our streetwear offering of pink lips appear, blow a kiss at you and then disappear back brands from Australia,” added Leung, noting labels into the pocket,” MacPhee said. such as Inside and Pam are being added for their Other designs include a skull and crossbones with teeth that colorful range and trendy lifestyle vibe. chatter, a wagging fi nger and a happy face that winks. Select If denim tastes are still not satisfi ed by the offer Macy’s stores or- at hand, Leung and Yousfi in March will open their dered the line for third location next door to the original Tiquetonne fall, selecting de- store. This one, called Blue Cheese, focuses on ex- signs that played to clusive denim labels such as Cheap Monday’s new the tastes of differ- vintage line and Sunday Sun, as well as select vin- ent target audienc- tage pieces. But for Leung, the shop’s key feature is es. For example, not on the selling fl oor. the back pocket for “A cellar, we fi nally have storage,” she said. Macy’s stores in — Emilie Marsh Texas has a horse that rears, and a portion of the pro- ceeds are donated to a horse rescue organization. MacPhee said it took several years to develop a viable system that was in keeping with the line’s premium focus. The fi rst challenge was to weave the LEDs into the fabric while keeping it smooth. A battery had to be developed that was powerful enough to supply energy for the light to run for six days, be recharged and fi t into the front coin pocket. A wire connecting the battery in the front to the lights on the back pocket also had to be woven into the garment in such a way that it wouldn’t be noticed. “It’s replacing crystal and embroidery,” MacPhee said. “The beauty with this is you have a choice. You can press a button and turn it on or turn it off.” Once turned on, the image usually appears for several seconds before kicking into an animated mode for several more seconds and then fading away. The whole process repeats continuously and attracts a lot of attention at bars, MacPhee said. The line uses a mix of Italian and Japanese denim and is manufac- tured in the U.S. Retail prices range from $169 to $230 and the com- Catherine Leung, co-owner of pany expects to expand to between 800 and 1,000 doors this season. the Royalcheese shop in Paris. — R.T. PHOTOS BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTOS BY

10 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 18, 2007 WWD.COM The Beat Dresses Top Sellers At ENK’s Intermezzo NEW YORK — Summer was in the air at the three-day Intermezzo trade show here. ENK International’s January edition at the Show Piers was busy with buyers who were on the hunt for fresh looks to complete their summer selling season. While retailers said they were able to fi nd things, reviews on the show were mixed. “It was very interesting to see the new collections, a bit of everything soft and feminine,” said Juan Justicia, a buyer for Lounge, a contemporary- and denim-based specialty store here. “There was a lot of rock ’n’ roll and bohemian with both bright and muted colors.” Justicia said that, overall, he felt that everyone seemed excited about the summer season. Other buyers felt differently. “I wish the market would move away from the baby-doll look, which is rather limiting in that it appeals to a narrow segment of the market,” said Rick Weinstein, director of sales and marketing at Searle, which operates eight stores. “Fashion-conscious customers The customer is greeted on will always be comfortable and interested in being right on fashion. the lower level with a large Those on the fringes, especially if they’ve worn it before and are a assortment of women’s apparel. little older, tend to be gun-shy to repeat looks like this.”

PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTOS BY That said, Weinstein added he did like that some dresses, a best-selling category at his stores, are evolving into newer looks like shifts and minidresses in more structured fabrics. Erin Crandall, head buyer for contemporary retailer Shopbop. com, agreed the fashion was disappointing. Juicy’s New Village Hangout “I didn’t think the show looked that great,” she said. “The best things I’ve seen are from Diane von Furstenberg — their pre-fall By Julee Greenberg looks are amazing, and it’s a true fall-transition delivery — and Alice + Olivia’s summer [line] also looks great.” NEW YORK — Juicy Couture just keeps thinking big- Crandall said she also liked the “great wardrobe staples” from Vince. ger when it comes to Manhattan. “The dresses are great, and there are cotton cashmere pieces that The fashion brand, owned by Liz Claiborne Inc., are perfect for transition,” she said. will open a store on Friday here at 368 Bleecker On the exhibitor side, vendors seemed happy with their orders. Street, which will be its third, and biggest, New At Lilla P., a New York-based better York location. The store, with 3,500 square feet of sportswear fi rm known best for its selling space, houses the entire Juicy assortment, pima cotton T-shirts, owner Pauline from women’s apparel and accessories, the Couture Nakios was doing well with knit Couture high-end collection, men’s wear and chil- dresses in neutral tones. dren’s wear to pet apparel and accessories. “I’m booking a lot of color in the The new fl agship will be the fi rst to house the new tank tops, but everything else is pretty baby line, Juicy Baby, when it debuts for spring as well neutral,” she said. “Our dresses are as the Couture Couture jewelry line when it launches doing very well, people are really this summer. The fl agship also stands as only the sec- loving the fi t.” ond location to carry the brand’s men’s wear. The San The Lilla P. collection wholesales Francisco store was the fi rst location to have it. from $16 to $54. The space, in a former club, is 7,500 square feet At the Ranahan Jeans booth, the in total and is spread out over two levels, with the Los Angeles-based company did well street level showing off accessories and Couture with its slim-fi t and trouser jeans styles. Couture. There is a winding staircase that takes cus- “People are loving the signature tomers to the larger lower level, where the “world lipstick pocket,” said Ashley Boer, of Juicy” is truly displayed. a sales representative for the brand, “We love the location of our Bleecker pointing out a small, slim interior shop. It’s on two levels, so our custom- pocket near the leg opening. “It’s er can wander through the world of great since it’s hidden and you don’t A best-selling wrap dress Juicy with each room having its own get the bulge in your pocket.” from Lilla P.’s summer line. intimate feeling,” said co-founder Ranahan, which has been in Pamela Skaist-Levy. “It’s right business for a year, was started by the sister team of Amy and in the heart of the West Village, Allison Gammon. Their father is James Gammon, a Western movie [which is] so charming. We love The accessories area is located on star. Having lived a lot of their young lives on the sets of Western all of our neighbors: Marc Jacobs, the upper level. Inset: Kitschy fi nds fl icks, the girls wanted to launch a line of jeans to refl ect their decorate the Juicy store. father’s work. The Ranahan line (which means “ranch hand” in cowboy-speak) antique shops, the Magnolia Bakery wholesales from $79 to $84. — we just love those cupcakes.” At the Malibu, Calif.-based contemporary fi rm Grassroots, sales The lower level is broken down representative Denise Hopkins said a viscose raglan sleeve tunic into three rooms, each with its own was booking well, as were the basket-weave tops and cotton V-neck cash register and set of dressing rooms. crochet dresses. She said that colors like peach, blue and white The idea, according to Skaist-Levy and her were selling well. The Grassroots line wholesales from $17 to $52. partner, Gela Nash-Taylor, is to have each room Helen Wang, which is housed at the Jeffrey Schwager showroom feel like a boutique on its own. The women’s apparel here, was also at the show with a huge selection of summer dresses. room is the largest area and houses the entire sports- “We have been doing very well with a variety of styles,” said wear assortment, with plenty of kitschy decorations Mandi Dorbin, sales representative at Jeffrey Schwager. “Baby dolls throughout, such as candy jars and a jumbo birdcage, are doing well as are the striped halters.” which can also be seen in the company’s Madison Dorbin pointed out a cotton shear silver leaf tunic, silk deep-V- Avenue location. In the men’s area, there is a billiard neck baby-doll dress and an embroidered linen dress as some of table stacked with piles of clothes. The children’s the best-booking pieces from Helen Wang. The line wholesales from room has tiny furniture for easy lounging and lower $120 to $180. racks and shelves for easy tot access. Dorbin was also showing off Chace, a new contemporary line The partners declined to reveal fi rst-year sales based here. There were linen laser-cut-out jackets and dresses, expectations. metallic linen coats and woven striped men’s wear-inspired The new location, which brings Juicy’s freestand- shirtdresses. The Chace line was also booking well with pointelle ing store count to 20, is the brand’s fi rst opening in sweaters and silk charmeuse and lace cocktail dresses. 2007, with about 15 more stores expected to open “I really feel strongly about the high-waisted pants and skirts,” in the U.S. this year. The company next will open a said Marianne Chace Weber, owner and designer of the collection, store in Milan on Feb. 15. In September, the 5,000- pointing to a black silk skirt. “I think it’s something that’s going to square-foot Juicy Couture world fl agship will open catch on after all of these low-waisted styles.” on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. The Chace collection wholesales from $110 to $210. The Juicy Kids area is made “Each of our Juicy customers has their own At press time, ENK could not confi rm the number of exhibitors to be kid friendly with small sense of style,” Nash-Taylor said. “Uptown, down- or retailers who attended the show, which closed Jan. 11. furniture and low shelves. town, Milan, Malibu, Tokyo — it’s about personal — J.G. style and having fun.”

12 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 18, 2007 WWD.COM U.S. Begins Monitoring Vietnam Imports Tax Breaks Divide Dems means the department will be By Evan Clark David Spooner drilling down to specifi c prod- WASHINGTON — The Bush ad- ucts, such as knit cotton trousers On Minimum Wage Bill ministration began collecting data for women’s and girls’ tracksuits, on Vietnamese imports of trou- rather than all trousers. By Kristi Ellis sers, shirts, underwear, swimwear The information will be re- and sweaters last week, kicking ported to the public on a monthly WASHINGTON — A rift between House and Senate Democrats off a controversial program that basis. The health of the U.S. in- has arisen over tying a minimum wage increase to tax breaks eventually could restrain trade by dustry, based on production, em- for small businesses. imposing antidumping duties. ployment and other statistics, will Sen. Max Baucus (D., Mont.), chairman of the Senate Finance The monitoring took effect be considered in the six-month Committee, and Rep. Charles Rangel (D., N.Y.), chairman of the Thursday, when Vietnam freed it- review process. The products House Ways & Means Committee, are at loggerheads over the self from import-restraining quo- being monitored might change as issue, marking one of the fi rst fi ssures in the Democratic Party tas by joining the World Trade the program develops. since it took control of Congress this year. Organization. The administration “At this point, I don’t know Baucus, whose panel passed a comprehensive tax incentive will consider self-initiating anti- if we can tell how much it package for small businesses Wednesday, said after the meet- dumping cases every six months SAMPERTON KYLE PHOTO BY will change month to month,” ing that he had discussed the differences over linking the tax based on the collected informa- a bill establishing permanent nor- Spooner said. “I’d like to get it breaks to a minimum wage increase with Rangel and concluded tion. The cases are intended to mal trade relations with Vietnam. right enough quickly enough that Democratic leaders will have to hammer out a compromise. combat unfairly priced imports The bill eventually passed. we provide certainty.” “At this point, it’s up to House Speaker [Nancy] Pelosi, and and, if successful, impose fi ve The program and any resulting If there are changes to which Sen. [Harry] Reid [Senate Majority Leader] as to how they want years’ worth of duties. anti-dumping cases, however, will products are being examined, to work that out,” said Baucus. “It’s their call right now.” Importers are concerned the have only an indirect impact on importers will be able to gauge The differences between Rangel and Baucus boil down to effort could be renewed and ex- domestic textile companies, since month by month where there is strategy and politics. The House passed a bill for a minimum panded to include other coun- they don’t generally compete di- some risk of an anti-dumping wage increase last week that did not provide tax breaks for tries, such as China. But textile rectly with imports from Vietnam. case being initiated. small businesses, which will bear the brunt of a $2.10 increase companies view the monitoring Textile fi rms are instead trying to “When we do our semi-annu- in the federal minimum wage rate. as an important precedent for shore up their export business, al review of the data, certainly The House bill would raise the federal wage to $7.25 from taking action against China. mostly to Central America. we’ll not self-initiate a case on $5.15 over two years. House Democrats argue the increase, the Vietnam made up 4.3 percent “If the allegation is of dump- something we haven’t been mon- fi rst in the minimum wage in 10 years, should be enacted with- of the U.S. apparel import market ing apparel or T-shirts, then we itoring,” Spooner said. out any concessions to employers. for the year ended Nov. 30, with can’t look at, by law, damage to The program creates no new However, there is bipartisan support in the Senate for a min- shipments of 956.4 million-square- textile [fi rms] or yarn spinners,” paperwork for fi rms, and Com- imum wage increase tied to tax breaks for small businesses. In meter equivalents, valued at $3.3 said Spooner, who set up the pro- merce will set up an e-mail noti- addition, President Bush has made his support of a wage in- billion. Freed of quotas, the coun- gram. “By law, we have to look at fi cation system to update the in- crease contingent upon such tax breaks. try is poised to expand quickly, the state of the domestic apparel dustry on developments. People “Senators have made it clear…there are not 60 senators who but the monitoring program and industry.” interested in receiving notifi ca- will vote for the minimum wage [increase] unless it includes any resulting anti-dumping cases However, antidumping laws tions can e-mail their addresses small business provisions,” said Baucus, referring to the “su- might moderate that growth. can be used to protect any U.S. to Vietnam-texapp-monitor-hot- permajority” needed to derail a fi libuster. “I very much hope to “This is limited to Vietnam, producers. “For better or worse, [email protected]. The same e- get the minimum wage passed, but the Senate is just a different and the Vietnam monitoring pro- the law doesn’t require that the mail address can be used to com- body than the House, and for the House and Senate to agree, gram will end at the end of the industry be of a certain size,” ment on the program. especially on a conference report, we have to have the small administration,” David Spooner, Spooner said. Public hearings on the moni- business provisions.” assistant secretary for import Products that are not made toring program will be held in Sen. Chuck Grassley (R., Iowa), sent out a warning administration at the Commerce in the U.S. at all should not be Washington within three months. Wednesday to Democrats who oppose Baucus’ efforts. Department, said in an interview. affected. Although the initiative came The “reality is a minimum wage hike would likely not pass The initiative fulfi lls a pledge Information on the imports, in- as a surprise to importers when the Senate without small business tax relief,” said Grassley. made by the Bush administration cluding the volume, value and av- it fi rst came to light, Spooner “So, to those on his side who have been critical of chairman in September to Sens. Lindsey erage unit value, is being collect- stressed that he is now consult- Baucus for being practical, I’d ask them how they would pro- Graham (R., S.C.) and Elizabeth ed under the 10-digit Harmonized ing with importers and will con- pose to get a minimum wage increase across the goal line.” Dole (R., N.C.), who were blocking Tariff System number. That tinue to do so. In the House, which is where all revenue bills must origi- nate, Rangel has reportedly said he would use a procedural maneuver to vote on whether to reject the Senate bill if it contains the tax breaks. The National Retail Federation said Wednesday it supports the legislation proposed by Baucus and Wholesale Apparel Prices Fall in December Grassley because it would provide a change in depreciation rules for retailers and other tax relief for small businesses. WASHINGTON — December Beauchemin, U.S. economist at goods sold at retail, including im- wholesale prices on U.S.-made Global Insight, in a report. “With ports that account for more than women and girls’ apparel fell 0.4 oil prices currently on the wane, 90 percent of the merchandise. percent compared with Novem- [Wednesday’s] report is benign at Within women’s and girls’, do- ber and were down 0.7 percent worst and will do precious little mestically made dress prices last from a year earlier. to disturb the current monetary month fell 4 percent from a year Warmth in 3 Regions The U.S. Labor Department re- policy outlook.” earlier, as underwear prices slid ported Wednesday that the overall Economists and the Federal 2.6 percent. Bucking the trend Producer Price Index — whole- Reserve Board closely watch for were knit shirts, with a 0.6 per- sale prices for all U.S.-made goods signs of price infl ation. If price cent price rise, and woven shirts, Slows Apparel Sales — rose a seasonally adjusted 0.9 increases are too steep or too sus- which were up 1.9 percent. percent last month after gaining 2 tained, the Fed could boost inter- On the textile front, prices on WASHINGTON — Warm weather offset by fairly strong spending percent in November. Excluding est rates, which generally cools synthetic fi bers rose 1.2 percent led to soft holiday apparel sales in most other categories, particu- food and energy, so-called core consumer spending and economic compared with December 2005, in the New York, Philadelphia larly consumer electronics and wholesale prices advanced 0.2 growth in the short run. processed yarns and threads and Richmond, Va., areas, accord- clothing accessories,” the report percent after increasing 1.3 per- Another Labor Department were up 2.3 percent, greige fab- ing to the Beige Book, the Federal said of the New York district. cent in November. measure of the pricing land- rics were ahead 1.3 percent and Reserve Board’s anecdotal read- The correlation between sales “The trend in core producer scape, this time at the retail level, fi nished fabric prices increased ing of the U.S. economy. and weather was much the same price inflation is encouraging is set to come out today with the 1.5 percent. Industry executives Stronger apparel sales were in the Philadelphia district. and mirrors the recent subsiding release of the Consumer Price generally pin these price hikes recorded in the Chicago and St. “Discounting was widespread of infl ation pressures observed in Index. In apparel, the CPI is on increased energy costs. Louis regions, said the report, during December, although most consumer prices,” said Kenneth more telling since it includes all — E.C. which drew on information from store executives said the price the Fed’s 12 districts for the peri- reductions made before the holi- od from Nov. 20 to Jan. 8. Overall days had been planned in ad- economic activity expanded at a vance,” said the report. “Further U.S. to Amend Trade Pact Provisions modest pace across the country. price reductions, primarily for “Nearly all districts reported apparel, have been taken since WASHINGTON — Bowing to pres- clear that some adjustments to Bush’s trade promotion authority a continued softening in housing the holidays.” sure from Democrats on Capitol that chapter will be made before at the end of June, Veroneau said. markets and high inventories of In San Francisco, consumers Hill, the Bush administration said Congress takes those up.” The authority helps the President new homes have generally led seem to be developing a taste for Wednesday that it would revise Veroneau would not discuss negotiate trade deals by guaran- to a slowing in residential build- higher-end goods. labor rights provisions in trade whether the U.S. would have to teeing there will be no amend- ing,” said the report. “Sales growth was especially deals with Peru, Colombia and make concessions to Peru, Colom- ments to the pacts as they move Sales were said to have been strong at department stores and Panama before the measures are bia or Panama in return for the through the legislative process. “particularly strong in New York establishments specializing in brought to a vote in Congress. changes. Congress included templates City,” though results upstate as luxury products, with full-price “We are open to dialogue with The three trade pacts, which for the labor and environmen- well as in northern New Jersey items reportedly selling sub- Congress regarding the labor lower barriers to commerce tal provisions of free trade were “more sluggish.” stantially better than last holi- chapter of those agreements,” between each of the countries agreements when it granted the “Somewhat soft sales of winter day season,” said the report of Deputy U.S. Trade Represen- and the U.S., will be ready for President the negotiating au- clothing and home furnishings the San Francisco region. tative John Veroneau told a Congressional consideration be- thority in 2002. and equipment were reportedly — E.C. roundtable of reporters. “It is fore the expiration of President — E.C. WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 18, 2007 13 WWD.COM Exhibit Celebrates Union SPI Sues PacSun Over Samples By David Moin Sunwear didn’t sour until mid- requested by Pacifi c Sunwear. 2005, after the retailer’s man- “Ultimately, there was no way Of Callas and Swarovski t’s a case of a little guy agement changed, according to for SPI to deliver the orders in By Sophia Chabbott Ibattling the big guy over sam- SPI. The sportswear company the way they wanted, so they can- ples. also claims that in May 2005 celed the orders,” said Jeffrey S. emanding, superstitious and full-on glamorous: These are SPI Manufacturing LLC, a Pacifi c Sunwear executives met Wruble, attorney for SPI. Dwords often used to describe divas of the opera, especially small supplier of private label with SPI in Hong Kong, told SPI Before the lawsuit, all SPI Maria Callas. sportswear, is suing Pacific that they liked their designs, re- wanted was for the samples to be The New York-born legend who died in 1977 at the age of 54 fa- Sunwear of California over al- quested more samples and gave returned and some costs to be cov- mously sang operas such as “Tosca” and “Fidelio.” But it was her leged misappropriated samples the impression they would work ered, SPI said. But on a business debut in “Verona” at New York’s Metropolitan Opera, in which she and a resulting loss of business, with SPI. trip to Cambodia about a year ago, wore a crown made by the in a $3.5 million lawsuit that in- SPI accuses Pacifi c Sunwear an SPI official discovered that Milanese atelier Marangoni cludes punitive damages. of never returning about 140 to Pacifi c Sunwear was manufactur- and set with Swarovski crys- Maria Callas The original complaint was 150 samples that cost roughly ing garments that looked suspi- tals, that had her especially filed about a year ago in the $200,000 to produce, deceptively ciously like SPI samples. nervous. Superior Court of the State of holding out the possibility of or- According to Wruble, the judge However, after audience California, Orange County. The ders that potentially could have will ask each side to produce evi- acclaim, Callas believed the $1.4 billion Pacific Sunwear generated $10 million in retail dence to support their positions, crown was lucky and from tried to get the case thrown out, sales and $1.8 million in profi ts take depositions and set a trial then on wore only Marangoni but a judge ruled last month that for SPI and preventing SPI from date. It’s possible the case will get jewels at the Met, according SPI stated its claims as required potentially providing the sam- settled to avoid a trial, but there to Austrian crystal manufac- by law and that there is suffi - ples to other retailers. have been no serious discussions turer Swarovski, which will cient reason to move forward SPI also claims that Pacifi c about settling, Wruble said. unveil its “Maria Callas and with the discovery phase. Sunwear went ahead on its own Gar Jackson, director of inves- Swarovski: Jewels on Stage” SPI is an eight-year-old Los to produce garments from the tor relations for Pacifi c Sunwear, exhibit at the Met on Friday, Angeles-based fi rm that is still samples, after misleading SPI said his company does not com- after a fete tonight. open for business but not cur- into thinking it would produce ment on pending litigation. Swarovski acquired rently producing for retail- the garments. Some purchase Disputes over samples be- Marangoni in 1999. ers. In the past, it has worked orders were issued but, accord- tween retailers and manufac- The exhibit originally pre- with specialty chains and mass ing to SPI, were impossible to fi ll turers are not unusual in the miered in 2005 in Verona, merchants, including Pacific due to a series of changes in the garment business, but it’s rare Italy, and has since traveled Sunwear for about four years. orders involving styles, amounts when a small manufacturer to opera houses around the The relationship with Pacifi c and delivery dates, that had been takes a big retailer to court. world, including those in Vienna, Florence, London and Prague. It will be on display in New York until March 3 and will travel to Tokyo and Barcelona later this year. The New York exhibition will offer some additional pieces, in- cluding an impressive crystal tiara and a blue and white crystal bib Stephen Burrows Doing Daytime at a Lower Price necklace. “She was a very superstitious person,” Markus Langes-Swarovski, By Marc Karimzadeh them up, or wear them with a member of Swarovski’s executive board, said of Callas. “She felt leggings or a pair of jeans.” much more secure and safe with her talisman.” STEPHEN BURROWS IS SEE- The collection will be made Nadja Swarovski, the company’s vice president of international ing the light of day. in a partnership with manu- communications, said, “This is an effort of Swarovski to recollect The designer, who has facturer Due per Due, which its heritage. We want to celebrate the ownership and preciousness been rebuilding his business also is the maker of the S. of the collection.” mostly with evening dresses by Burrows line, which will Peter Gelb, general manager of the Met, said New York opera- fi t for a disco diva for the last launch next month on the goers have long wanted more of Callas, whose recordings continue four years, is expanding his Home Shopping Europe net- to outsell living opera stars. Stephen Burrows World label work in Munich. “If there’s any one artist who approaches immortality, it’s her,” with a line of 25 matte jersey “A lot of people like said Gelb. “Callas’ career at the Met was a somewhat stormy one. daytime dresses at lower price Burrows, but always thought She did not sing as often at the Met as other opera houses. In a way, points than his regular line. that Stephen’s merchandise was it’s great that the Met is putting up this exhibit because they still “It’s for a broader audience very expensive,” Miller said of can’t get enough of her.” at a more comfortable price A sketch the daytime dresses. “This will level, especially for daytime,” from Stephen open us up to major department Pieces on exhibit Burrows said. “We came up Burrows’ new and specialty stores.” at “Maria Callas with the daytime concept be- dress line. The dresses will feature and Swarovski: cause we feel it would fi ll a Burrows’ signature details, like Jewels on Stage.” niche. I am trying to address color blocking, lettuce edging the customer the whole day.” details and cowl necks. Colors Burrows cited Anna will include a deep burgundy, Cleveland, the daughter of his a slate gray, brown, black, and longtime muse Pat Cleveland, cobalt blue. It will open to the as well as New York women market on Feb. 7 for fall distri- as sources of inspiration. The bution. Miller declined to dis- new dresses wholesale from close volume projections. $125 to $195, compared with $225 to $880 for the Currently, Burrows has just one U.S. wholesale evening line. At the lower price points, the new account, Shop at 2210 in La Jolla, Calif. Worldwide, pieces are likely to sit with Nanette Lepore, Tracy the line is sold at stores such as Boutique Jeannette Reese and Diane von Furstenberg at department in Paris, Beatrice Dreter in Zurich, Evenings in and specialty stores. Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, and Bugatti in Dubai. “It’s younger and fresher,” managing director “[The dress line] opens up new areas of the John Robert Miller said. “It evolved from seeing business that we would like to be in,” Miller said. Anna Cleveland, what she wears and what she “Because of the price difference, I am sure the likes. They are for everyday girls. You can dress day line will be more attractive to people.” Gen Art Names New Fashion Director NEW YORK — Gen Art has tapped its own Lee Trimble to take over Goody’s Said Eyeing Turlinski as fashion director, handling all fashion events and programming. For the past four years, Trimble has worked with Gen Art’s fashion program on both coasts. She succeeds Mary Gehlhar, who huck Turlinski has emerged as a top candidate brands such as Dockers, Levi’s, Nike and Reebok. remains with Gen Art in the newly created post of vice president Cto become the next chief executive of Goody’s The chain reported nearly $1.3 billion in 2005 sales. of brand strategy. She will focus on the company’s direction and Family Clothing, the Knoxville, Tenn.-based ap- The 54-year-old chain was taken private in a overall growth. parel, accessories and gift chain. $327 million buyout by GMM Capital and Prentice Gehlhar’s new role will allow her to spend more time with her Turlinski last week resigned as ceo of the Capital Management in January 2006 and has since year-old son, a Gen Art spokeswoman said. Limited Stores division of Limited Brands. been revamping management. Isaac Dabah is act- During her time at Gen Art, Trimble has helped introduce up- Limited said Turlinski decided to pursue other ing ceo and ceo of GMM Capital. Before the buy- and-comers like “Project Runway” winner Jeffrey Sebelia and opportunities, but didn’t specify. out, Goody’s was closely associated with Robert Louis Verdad, who was fi rst seen by Madonna’s stylist Arianne A source said an employment deal could be Goodfriend, the former chairman and ceo. Recently, Phillips at a Gen Art show. Prior to joining Gen Art, Trimble was ironed out this week. Goody’s offi cials could not Mary P. Kwan became president of the chain, after executive director of the Coalition of Los Angeles Designers, or be reached for comment. heading up the merchandising and design efforts CLaD, and helped create a cohesive L.A. Fashion Week by initiat- Goody’s operates some 385 small department for the Roxy apparel line at Quiksilver. She pre- ing discussions with IMG to produce it, the spokeswoman said. stores in 21 states, mainly in strip malls in the viously held executive positions at Levi Strauss, Southeast and Midwest. The chain sticks to smaller Lane Bryant, Sears Roebuck and Mervyns. towns and caters to budget-minded shoppers seeking — D.M. 14 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 18, 2007 WWD.COM Going Global, Valuation Top 10 Firms Sustain Worldwide Growth By Sharon Edelson retailers were: Wal-Mart, Carrefour, by building stores with wide aisles Home Depot, Metro, Tesco, Kroger, to accommodate shopping carts, Focus of Retail Parleys NEW YORK — The biggest retailers Target, Costco, Sears Holdings and Kalish said. are getting bigger. Schwartz. The new customer will have com- By Vicki M. Young “The State of Global Retailing: Of the big fi ve economies, Japan plete information about any product Planting Seeds of Sustainable remains the most insular. Among that he or she wishes to buy. “Google has NEW YORK — How to build a global brand and create Growth” seminar at the National country’s leading 250 retailers, two- leveled the playing fi eld by greatly shareholder value were two main themes at fi nancial Retail Federation convention here thirds operate only in Japan. The increasing the transparency of the seminars held earlier this week. drove home that point with a list of Deloitte study concluded that Japan’s marketplace,” Kalish said. “The fear Investment banking fi rm Financo Inc. held its the top 10 retailers. Wal-Mart has economic recovery has begun and is that the Internet will turn branded 17th annual Merchandising Industry Seminar on held the number-one spot since that the country is poised to “experi- products into commodities.” “Building the Global Brand Experience” here at the 1996, Carrefour has been second ence consumer-driven growth rather Richard Fenker, founder of Harmonie Club on Monday evening. Earlier in the since 2000, and Home Depot began than relying on exports. Japan’s eco- Prediction Analytics, addressed day, at the National Retail Federation convention, occupying third place in 2002. nomic evolution will be a critical these concerns during “Multi- panelists discussed fi nancial perspectives during the “The 10 largest retailers contin- component in easing the global im- Chan nel Retailing: Synergy or Can- “Wall Street Watches Retail” seminar. ue to capture market share,” said balance.” nibalization?” Cultivating Internet The Financo event was moderated by chairman Ira Kalish, global director of De- The major emerging markets of shoppers is worth the trouble for tra- Gilbert Harrison, and the participants included: Bernd loitte, which presented its “Global China, India and Russia continued ditional stores or catalogues, Fenker Beetz, chief executive officer, Coty Inc.; Giovanna Powers of Retailing Study” at the to see rapid growth, the study said. said. Multichannel shoppers — those Furlanetto, president and managing director, Furla convention. In China, consumer spending rose who shop in brick-and-mortar stores, SpA; George Jones, chief executive offi cer and presi- Although “globalization” has been at a frenzied pace, making it the through catalogues and online — dent, Borders Group Inc.; Matthew Rubel, ceo and pres- a buzzword for a decade, most retail- third-largest retail market in the spend almost 30 percent more than ident, Payless ShoeSource Inc.; Steve Sadove, ceo, Saks ers still operate on their home soil. world. India attracted attention, but single-channel shoppers, he noted. Inc., and Trudy Sullivan, president, Liz Claiborne Inc. However, stores with higher levels government restrictions stood in the Customers who order online and Harrison opened the discussion by explaining that of globalization experienced greater way of global retailers getting a foot- pick up the items in a store increase “not all brands are easily transferred from one coun- sales growth, Kalish said. And while hold in the burgeoning market. their purchases by 58 percent, try to another.” The participants discussed what their international sales are important to A new customer is emerging, Fenker said. To get optimum results strategies are in building a global brand. the growth strategies of many large Kalish said, who is price- and quali- from all three channels, stores must For Beetz, where Coty has 50 percent of its sales retailers, foreign operations account ty-conscious, lacks loyalty to brands be deployed judiciously. Catalogue from the U.S. in the prestige and mass markets, the for only 14.4 percent of retail sales of and stores and does not consider fi rms considering opening a store key is “having a strong program where the focus is Deloitte’s top 250 companies. shopping to be fun. “They seek out should be aware that “some shop- on the DNA of the brand. If the brand is iconic-like, Most U.S. retailers are not major the best price rather than the best ping experiences don’t enhance where the DNA is so clearly entrenched, if you devel- global players, but American fi rms shopping experience,” he said. the catalogue,’’ Fenker said. “The op a strong program, it will hold steady in different still dominate the top 250 list with 93 Kohl’s, one of the 50 fastest-grow- Williams-Sonoma store experience parts of the world.” The company also follows through entries, or 37.2 percent of the total. ing retailers from 2000 to 2005, re- enhances the catalogue and Internet, on an innovating product development pipeline so that Total sales for the top 250 retail- sponded to these issues by selling but a dollar store doesn’t enhance the brand continuously “bonds with the consumer.” ers reached $3.01 trillion in 2005, up sought-after brands, differentiating the experience. Overall sales are not 6 percent from the previous year’s its product assortments and improv- growing much. Most of the growth is DNA and soul must be $2.84 trillion. The 10 largest global ing the department store experience coming from the Internet.” “the same all over the world wherever you bring the brand.” Lepore Hopes Shoppers Say ‘Mirror, Mirror’ — Trudy Sullivan, Liz Claiborne Inc. By Cate T. Corcoran Sullivan said there’s really no magic formula for bringing a brand to the global front but emphasized NEW YORK — Inspired by young people and their use that what matters is ensuring that the “DNA and soul of technology, interactive services firm IconNicholson must be the same all over the world wherever you and designer Nanette Lepore have created a shop- bring the brand.” She also noted that the company is ping experience that merges the digital and the real committed to fostering talent and allowing interns to worlds. work at meaningful assignments, knowing that mis- Shoppers stand in front of a “magic mirror” and can takes will be made as part of the learning process. send a photo or video of themselves to their MySpace “When we bring in the brand to a new market, we page or to friends via e-mail or cell phone. The friends study the new market to understand the local cus- vote “yes” or “no” on the outfi t and can text message tomer, but we don’t differentiate our markets. It is back. The mirror displays the vote tally and messages. the same worldwide,” Furlanetto said. She said the The mirror could also be set up to display ratings fi rst store in a new country is “carefully selected,” al- and popularity of items sent from a Web site. though the same advertising fi rm is used all over the IconNicholson demonstrated the technology, world to keep the brand message consistent. which it calls Social Retailing, at the National Retail For Saks, Sadove said the key isn’t just about ex- Federation conference here this week. Nanette panding into new territories but about the Saks ex- Lepore said it hopes to install a more feminine ver- perience. “At our core are the luxury brands that the sion of the technology in a department store such as customer has to recognize as [a part of] Saks. We will Bloomingdale’s or Saks Fifth Avenue in the next three augment them with local brands that represent luxury to six months. and the brands that consumers want, but it really is “If that is not viable, then we will seriously consider about building an awareness of what Saks is, the Saks putting one of these in one of our stores, perhaps in experience and the brands that represent the Saks Las Vegas or maybe Tokyo; we haven’t decided,” said global experience,” he said. Robert Savage, president of the fi rm and husband But Sadove also cautioned that the country must of designer Nanette Lepore. Savage said he plans to be a locale where the brands are willing to have a speak to department stores about the concept next presence. “Where is there an opportunity for anoth- week. The technology is ready to go, although the con- er luxury retailer if one is there already? It is about cept needs to be tested fi rst to see how many people the distribution of core luxury brands. Can we get the would use it, as well as other practical details, he A model demonstrates brands there? If we can’t get the brands to go [to a new added. The company also plans to tweak the design to the “magic mirror.” locale] and represent Saks there, then maybe we don’t fi t the Nanette Lepore style. The mirror, for example, go there,” Sadove said. could be oval, he said. nology and understand how our customers think and it Rubel said his fi rm fi rst tries to understand the “We believe in the future of social retailing,” he just makes sense to keep up with it,” Savage said. “But marketplace and consumer behavior in a new locale, said, citing how shoppers in Tokyo text message each the beauty of this is that it’s a gimmick but it’s not a even if it means Payless merchants move to live in the other and how his eight-year-old daughter plays with gimmick. You can really sell things through this.” market for awhile. Rubel said a company has to make friends over the Internet. “I know Nanette likes to shop The IconNicholson demonstration used 10 liquid sure that the organization understands the opportu- with her mother and sister. Her sister lives in Ohio; crystal display screens mounted behind mirrors. The nities at a new location and that it not be a distrac- she can tell her sister to get online while she’s in the mirror automatically recognized a garment via RFID, tion, otherwise the expansion can’t be leveraged in store and ask her what she thinks of this and that.” Or and recommended items to match. Show attendees the proper way. Lepore could use the technology to demonstrate how voted at six kiosks, which were wired to the displays Rubel and Harrison also spoke during the NRF to wear her line to customers, he said. through an Ethernet cable. Similar kiosks could be seminar, which was sponsored by Oracle and includ- The style-obsessed are already sharing photos set up in a store, so teens could shop at them together, ed Robert Buchanan, analyst for the consumer dis- of themselves in various outfi ts though fashion so- see what others had purchased, or order items not in cretionary, consumer staples sector at A.G. Edwards. cial networking sites such as MyStyleDiary and the store. An actual retailer might use a secure wire- He told attendees that “demand forecasting” is a new ShareYourLook, as well as sending photos of them- less or infrared network to reach the outside world trend to watch, particularly because it helps retail- selves to each other via cell phone and seeing what instead, said IconNicholson’s chief technology offi cer ers better tailor their assortments based on certain other people are wearing on Flickr and various Christopher Enright. IconNicholson was involved in demographic traits. And he said retailers who can le- streetwear blogs from around the world. This is one of the design and implementation of the technology at verage technology would likely see their stock prices the fi rst concepts to bring a retailer and a brand into Prada’s SoHo store here, which at the time of its open- benefi t. the phenomenon. ing was one of the most technologically advanced de- “We want to show we’re on the cutting edge of tech- signer stores in the world. WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 18, 2007 15 WWD.COM Jones Said to Look at Breakup Fila Sold to Fila Korea ess than four years after buying Fila, Continued from page one ering the possibility of an initial public offering for Neiman Lprivate equity firm Cerberus Capital up the fi rm, the sum of its parts could put a valuation on its Marcus, perhaps in the next year or so, which would have Management has sold the Italian active share price around $40 or higher. That, in part, would vindi- been a quicker exit strategy than expected. A purchase of apparel company. cate what Peter Boneparth, chief executive offi cer of Jones, Barneys might delay that by a short period, those sources Fila Korea Ltd. bought Fila Luxembourg and the Jones board have said all along: The company has in- said, but could actually enhance the “investment story” as — which holds the rights to the worldwide trinsic value that hadn’t yet been realized. The $5 billion com- growth could come from multiple fronts instead of just the use of the Fila brands and trademarks pany had been looking for a purchase price of at least $36 a expansion of the Neiman Marcus name. — from Sports Brand International Ltd., share. Bain Capital, the only remaining bidder, which walked “Splitting up the company certainly is an alternative that a company within Cerberus that will re- away from the deal last August, was eyeing $28 a share. Jones should be looking at,” said Richard Kestenbaum, part- tain Cloudveil Mountain Works Inc. and Jones shares closed Wednesday at $33.51 on the New York ner at investment banking fi rm Triangle Capital. Motionwear Inc. Terms of the deal were not Stock Exchange, compared with $33.80 the day before. The banker said a breakup would give shareholders the disclosed, but the estimated purchase price Jones’ properties include Nine West Group Inc., which it potential opportunity to increase the value of their holdings if was around $350 million, with Samsung bought for $1.4 billion in June 1999 when the apparel vendor separate shares were to be issued in Barneys or Nine West. It helping with the fi nancing of the transac- was under the leadership of Sidney Kimmel, who remains also would allow the remaining entity to grow by doing small- tion, sources said. Fila is still regarded as a as chairman. Nine West’s stable of brands includes Nine er acquisitions. Boneparth has in the past said that in order to high-end apparel fi rm, particularly in South West, Enzo Angiolini, Bandolino, Easy Spirit and Pappagallo. “move the needle,” Jones has to do deals of signifi cant size. Korea, said apparel sources, who noted Fila Financial sources pegged the value of Nine West at $1.8 “Jones is so big that it is hard to make an impression on does more in apparel than in footwear. billion to $1.9 billion. Likely suitors, the market, and organic growth has not According to sources, SBI put Fila on said several industry chief executives panned out,” Kestenbaum said. the auction block about six weeks ago. and fi nancial sources, include Brown It is still unclear, however, whether There had been several interested parties, Shoe Co. Inc. and Vince Camuto of the Jones would keep the core moderate including Iconix, but Fila Korea preemp- Camuto Group, who co-founded the business intact and maintain the pub- tively bought the company by acquiring all footwear fi rm in 1977. lic company as a smaller fi rm or pos- capital stock of Fila Luxembourg. The Nine West group does about $1 sibly also sell off some of its moderate Yoon-Soo (Gene) Yoon, chairman of Fila billion in annual wholesale volume and brands. Korea, has acted as the South Korean licens- $900 million in retail sales. In addition The ceo of a sportswear fi rm said on ee for the brand for decades and completed to footwear, it has a sizable accessories Wednesday that Gloria Vanderbilt and a management buyout of Fila Korea in 2005. component. In 1999, Nine West was a hot the core Jones New York are the brands “We are very excited to acquire the brand, generating $1.92 billion in reve- that competitors would probably be in- worldwide Fila business,” Yoon said in a nues and $40.4 million in profi ts. terested in since they are the ones that statement. “Fila is widely recognized as Barneys New York, which Jones are doing well. Whether Anne Klein, a one of the premier global sports brands and bought in December 2004 for $400 mil- higher-end contemporary line currently we believe it has tremendous untapped po- lion, is estimated to be worth around being relaunched with a designer line tential. We look forward to working closely $800 million to $900 million, fi nancial created by Ruben and Isabel Toledo, with Fila’s talented management team and sources said. Both fi nancial sources and might be put up for sale would depend regard the existing employees as a valuable chief executives at industry fi rms told on “what Jones wants to be in the fu- asset of the business.” WWD that several private equity fi rms ture,” said this ceo. Steve Wynne, president and chief ex- are eyeing Barneys, including Texas Wholesale better apparel brands ecutive offi cer of SBI, said SBI started Pacifi c Group. A private equity source owned by Jones, in addition to the core considering putting Fila up for sale at the on Wednesday confi rmed there has been Peter Boneparth Jones label and Anne Klein, include end of the year. “The issue for Fila was interest by TPG since last year, when Albert Nipon, Evan-Picone Dress and could it bring the kind of price that would Jones put the entire company up for sale, and that the inter- Le Suit. Wholesale moderate apparel collections include benefit investors,” Wynne said. “We’ve est continues to this day. certain Jones-branded lines: Norton McNaughton, Gloria spent a lot of time over the last three years TPG is no stranger to retail and apparel. It owns J. Crew Vanderbilt, Evan-Picone, Energie, Erika, l.e.i., Jeanstar, cleaning up various areas of the business. and Bally and in 2005 teamed with Warburg Pincus to buy Pappagallo and Rena Rowan. We’ve done a lot of work in bringing new Neiman Marcus Group. TPG last year also was involved in If Jones chooses to sell a brand such as Jones New York partners to the brand, and we feel we have one of the most successful retail initial public offerings in or Gloria Vanderbilt, some apparel executives expect brand turned Fila into a strong global brand.” history with the stock market fl otation of J. Crew, and last management fi rms such as Iconix and NexCen Brands to When Cerberus bought Fila from Holding week the company revealed plans to cut its stake in the spe- jump into the fray. di Partecipazioni Industriali SpA in 2003, cialty store further to 24 percent from 36 percent by selling “Those two are brands that have tremendous licensing the company had been up for sale for almost 7.5 million shares. opportunities and fi t the model of Iconix and NexCen,” said two years and was burdened with more than Boneparth was the force behind the acquisition of Barneys one industry executive. $300 million in debt. SBI holds on to the New York, predicting at the time of the deal that the retailer NexCen said in December that it was buying design house smaller brands Cloudveil and Motionwear, could become a $1 billion company. He joined Jones in June Bill Blass, in part because it expects to leverage off the in- but Wynne said the fi rm will look for oppor- 2001 following the acquisition of McNaughton Apparel Group, frastructure of Blass for future apparel acquisitions. NexCen tunities to sell them in the future. where he was ceo. He later became ceo of Jones. already owns The Athlete’s Foot and is currently looking at a Paul, Hastings, Janofsky & Walker LLP Industry executives noted that Barneys New York would be food franchise to complete its goal of a three-pronged vertical represented Fila Korea in the deal. “It’s a strategic fi t for Neiman Marcus Group. The two don’t com- business model, according to a source close to the company. a signifi cant transaction for the Korean pete for the same clientele and having Howard Socol, ceo of Iconix also has been busy, late last year snapping up apparel industry, as it’s one of the fi rst Barneys, on board would give TPG a natural successor to Burt Ocean Pacifi c from Warnaco and London Fog, which had internationally renowned brands to be Tansky, ceo of NMG, whenever he chooses to step down. been in bankruptcy proceedings. Earlier in 2006, Iconix owned directly by a Korean company,” Currently, Barneys is considered the crown jewel of the completed deals for Mossimo and Mudd Jeans. An invest- said Charles H. Baker, corporate partner assets under the Jones umbrella. The luxury market is still ment banker said Iconix had been in negotiations for Fila, at Paul, Hastings. doing well, and there is the potential for expansion in both but a deal for the company closed on Friday, with the South — Whitney Beckett, with the Barneys fl agships and its contemporary Co-op concept. Korean licensee, Yoon-Soo (Gene) Yoon, beating out Iconix contributions from Vicki M. Young Financial sources said late last year that TPG was consid- (see related story, this page).

But lots of ad dollars emanate from Paris, and Cona NOT-SO-EXTREME MAKEOVER: If imitation is the sincerest form will clearly court the big spenders. “For David to do a party of fl attery, In Style certainly has had a lot of admirers since in Paris is a little odd,” said one insider. When previous it arrived on the scene. The question is, will the same trend MEMO PAD publisher David Carey (now at Portfolio) was there, Remnick occur now that the magazine has fi nished freshening up attended lunches or dinners with Prada or Armani, but its pages? The February issue, with cover girl Hilary Swank, FASHION BATTLE: The fashion houses doing couture never hosted an event. Moreover, Remnick already held a represents what is the latest chapter in the magazine’s may be dwindling fast, but the party circuit certainly party during New York Fashion Week at his home in the changing look. “The front of the book was last in the isn’t — thanks to Condé Nast Publications. Two of fall, reportedly at Cona’s request. “If David can get there, plan,” said Charla Lawhon, In Style’s managing editor. She its magazines will duke it out in Paris next week with it’s all Lou’s doing,” said the source. added new sections, including Sneak Peek, which provides separate bashes to introduce their fashion editors. The That said, Remnick seemed excited about the trip. pictures and captions for fi ve of the magazine’s favorite New Yorker editor in chief David Remnick appears to “It’s a meet-and-greet, and I think a lot of those people stories. Another is Style Diary, formerly called Fashion suddenly have found a love of fashion and, with vice don’t know me at all or the magazine as much as I’d like. Flashback. Style Diary features large photos of a celebrity, president and publisher Lou Cona, will host a party It’s something I’ve never done before. I thought it would documenting their fashion changes on a monthly basis, Monday to introduce new fashion editor Susan Morrison. be a fun and interesting trip to make.” He’s also going to whereas Fashion Flashback went further back in time and Not to be outdone, a day later, Vanity Fair’s editor in check out a “bunch of shows” during his Sunday-through- contained smaller pictures “that couldn’t show the fun and chief Graydon Carter will throw a dinner to celebrate Wednesday jaunt. excitement of the clothes,” Lawhon said. “At this point, designer Diane von Furstenberg and fashion and style When Remnick returns, he’ll most likely prep for The looks change faster and it needs to feel more recent.” director Michael Roberts, who was previously fashion New Yorker Conference/2012: Stories From the Near Future, The changes clearly are an attempt by In Style to editor at The New Yorker for nine years. a two-night gathering of innovators, thinkers, designers and reverse its newsstand slide. While women’s magazines The parties aren’t the only overlap between the two other needle-movers to be held May 6-7. The idea is to overall have suffered, In Style saw single-copy sales fall magazines — Cona spent fi ve years at Vanity Fair before break out of the mold of traditional business conferences 9.4 percent in the fi rst half of 2006, according to the joining The New Yorker. But besides the uncanny timing and call to action ideas in tech, business and beyond that Audit Bureau of Circulations. And clearly more changes of the Paris fetes, Remnick has never been known as a can be implemented in the near future. “I’m interested in lie ahead: Just as Lawhon put the fi nishing touches on fashionista. For one, instead of replacing Roberts when originality of ideas and not conventional credentialism,” said the last section of In Style, Time Inc. editor at large Ariel he left in the spring, Remnick added fashion duties to Remnick. “It’s not an opportunity for ceo X to talk about the Foxman has entered the picture to “keep evolving” the Morrison’s responsibilities, which already included being ceo’s company and give an annual report of their company. magazine. “Ariel understands the DNA of the magazine the magazine’s articles editor. Prior to The New Yorker, Bo-ring!” But isn’t that also what Portfolio has promised it and he’s like a member of the staff,” Lawhon said. “We’ll she’d done a two-year stint at Vogue. will do with its conferences? — Stephanie D. Smith keep fi nding new ways to do things.” — Amy Wicks 16 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 18, 2007 WWD.COM

With winter upon us, it only makes sense to dream of getting away. But where in the U.S. are people interested in spending their time this year? TheWWDList Minnetonka, Minn.-based Carlson Wagonlit Travel has released its 2007 Travel Trends Survey, which tracked more than 500 Carlson travel experts on their clients’ bookings. Of those agents responding, 82 percent said total bookings for the year are equal to or higher than the same period in 2006. Key trends: Vacations are getting longer and clients are spending more money per trip. The top three favorite vacation types are all-inclusive resorts, cruises and trips to sunny and warm destinations. Here, a closer look at the Get Outta Town year’s favorite U.S. destinations. — Cecily Hall The top 10 most booked domestic travel destinations for 2007.

LAS VEGAS Percentage of agents ranking this as a top destination for their clients in 2007: 77.9 “The city was conceived, designed and built for good times,” according to the Las Vegas Convention and Visitors Authority. Travelers, not surprisingly, include gamblers, bachelors, bachelorettes and couples looking to tie the knot, as well as families and shoppers. Las Vegas Boulevard, known simply as “The Strip,” houses plenty of hotel casinos, including the Bellagio, the Wynn Las Vegas and The Venetian. Their luxury shopping counterparts include: 1 the Via Bellagio (Dior, Fendi, Gucci, Hermès), the Wynn Esplanade (Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Oscar de la Renta) and the Grand Canal Shoppes at The Venetian (Burberry, Dooney & Burke, bebe). Visitors can also opt for outdoor adventures, including climbing or hiking in Red Rock National Park. Golf resorts such as MonteLago Village Resort and the Ritz-Carlton, both of which span Lake Las Vegas, are located just outside the city.

ORLANDO Percentage: 75.5 Orlando and Disney seem to be synonymous, but the city has other attractions as well, including Universal Studios and Sea World. Disney World’s 23 resort hotels range in price categories from value (Pop Century Resort) to moderate (Caribbean Beach Resort) to deluxe accommodations 2 (Animal Kingdom Lodge), while Universal Studios boasts everything from a Hard Rock Hotel to the Portofi no Bay Hotel. The region has more than 52 million square feet of existing retail space, with nine malls located throughout Orlando, along with major retailers such as Nordstrom and Macy’s. Talbot’s, Nicole Miller and Banana Republic are located along tree-lined Park Avenue.

HONOLULU Percentage: 55.6 One of the better-known shopping areas in Hawaii is found right in Honolulu. The Ala Moana Shopping Center is one of the country’s largest open air malls with more than 200 shops, including Guess, DKNY, Tiffany & Co., Juicy Couture and Escada. After shopping, tourists can enjoy one of the area’s beaches, such as the Halona Beach Cove, Sandy Beach or Waikiki Beach (seen left) — which comprises a series of continuous beaches 3 stretching for more than 2 miles.

KAHULUI (MAUI), HAWAII Percentage: 44.2 The island of Maui attracts visitors not only for its weather and accommodations, but also for its beauty. The island’s 15 golf courses help draw travelers to this region. Gohawaii.com states, “Nowhere else is the Pacifi c quite so blue, the fairways so green, and the sunlight so perfectly golden.” Accommodations include the Grand Wailea Resort Hotel & Spa (seen left). In the heart of the resort is The Shops at Wailea, home to 4 retailers from Louis Vuitton to Billabong. The resort is located on Wailea Beach — voted one of the best beaches in America.

NEW YORK Percentage: 38.3 “Let’s face it, we’re talking about the Big Apple — everyone wants to see something here,” said Kathy Gerhardt, a Carlson Wagonlit Travel spokeswoman. She also noted, “Whether it’s a business meeting or a church group on tour to see Broadway shows, this city has the facilities to accommodate large groups.” Surrounding some of the world’s best-known landmarks is some of the best-known shopping. Located a stone’s throw 5 from Central Park, for example, is The Shops at Columbus Circle, which houses stores such as Sephora, J. Crew and Sisley. Fifth Avenue covers Saks Fifth Avenue, Lord & Taylor, Bergdorf Goodman, Henri Bendel and a slew of specialty chains — from Louis Vuitton to Zara, while Madison Avenue includes Barneys New York and designer boutiques such as Polo Ralph Lauren, Carolina Herrera, Giorgio Armani, Hermès and Valentino.

ANCHORAGE, ALASKA Percentage: 20.7 It may seem like an odd destination, but Alaska is full of nature thrill-seekers, mixed in with those looking for some relaxation. For the adventure enthusiasts, Denali National Park is six million acres of land full of wildlife, such as grizzlies, wolves and moose. Visitors can hike Mount McKinley — North America’s highest peak, also known as Denali — climb and backpack, or simply enjoy the breathtaking views. Situated just 40 miles south 6 of Anchorage is the Alyeska Prince Hotel (seen left), where guests can indulge in spa accommodations and enjoy fi ne dining, skiing, golfi ng, even VISIONS OF AMERICA, MIAMI BY LLC/ALAMY JOSE FUSTE RAGA/CORBIS; K BY shopping. The resort boasts several shops selling art, souvenirs and gifts and apparel.

MIAMI/MIAMI BEACH Percentage: 14.8 In addition to the sun, beaches and luxurious hotels, Miami has pockets of spectacular shopping options. The Greater Miami Convention & Visitors Bureau’s Web site states: “Greater Miami shopping offers everything from designer creations to everyday great deals. From elegant outdoor malls to hip neighborhood Miami shopping districts, this is a city made for shopping.” Bal Harbour Shops offers plenty of upscale options, 7 including designer boutiques like Celine, Emilio Pucci, Luca Luca and Marc Jacobs. And Coral Gables is home to Miracle Mile (seen left), where art galleries, restaurants, bridal boutiques and unique specialty stores for women’s apparel — such as Alejandro Crocker boutique and Rene Ruiz Couture — can all be found.

PHOENIX/SCOTTSDALE, ARIZ. Percentage: 14.6 With average temps of 85.1 degrees Fahrenheit, average rainfall of only 7.7 inches and no hurricanes, tornadoes or earthquakes to speak of, this is a destination worth checking out. “There is so much to do in this area of the country,” said Gerhardt. “World-class golf courses, spas, plenty 8 of shopping and outdoor activities — it’s a wide variety that accommodates all kinds of different tourists.” For shoppers, Kierland Commons is an “urban village” concept that encompasses upscale retail, entertainment and restaurants and is home to Anthropologie, Coach and BCBG Max Azria. Then again, perhaps tourists are tailing Britney Spears, who recently checked into Sanctuary on Camelback Mountain, a luxurious destination spa (seen left), for a little R&R.

FORT MYERS, FLA. Percentage: 13.8 Located on the Gulf Coast of Florida north of Naples, Fort Myers is the third region in Florida to make the top 10. “It’s interesting to us that Florida is so well-represented,” said Gerhardt. “From what we can gather, this state did a great job in recovering from the hurricanes in 2005, and 9 because 2006 was such a quiet season for weather, people are heading to this state with renewed confi dence.” Fort Myers Beach, Captiva Island and Sanibel Island are all popular beaches in the area, while luxury hotels, such as the Sanibel Harbour Resort & Spa (seen left) accommodate travelers. Shoppers looking for a bargain can visit the Sanibel Tanger Outlets, where Etienne Aigner, Liz Claiborne, Fossil and Bass all house outlet shops.

SAN FRANCISCO Percentage: 12.8 With the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz, Napa Valley and Yosemite all within easy distance, what more could lure visitors to this area of the country? Food and shopping, of course. San Francisco boasts some of the country’s best-known restaurants, including Thomas Keller’s French Laundry; Alice Waters’ Chez Panisse, and Fleur de Lys, a French restaurant run by acclaimed chef Hubert Keller. Located in Union Square, 10 diners can enjoy a meal here and take in some shopping to work off the cuisine. Hundreds of shops are here, including Christian Dior, Prada, Yves Saint Laurent and Bottega Veneta. In September, the highly anticipated Westfi eld San Francisco Centre — a 1.5-million-square-foot urban shopping mall, opened (seen left), anchored by a brand new Bloomingdale’s and a Nordstrom. LAS VEGAS PHOTO BY RICHARD CUMMINS/CORBIS; ORLANDO BY ATLANTIDE PHOTOTRAVEL/CORBIS; HONOLULU BY DOUGLAS PEEBLES/CORBIS; NEW YOR BY HONOLULU PHOTOTRAVEL/CORBIS; ATLANTIDE RICHARD CUMMINS/CORBIS; ORLANDOLAS BY VEGAS PHOTO BY SOURCE: CARLSON WAGONLIT TRAVEL ASSOCIATES, A DIVISION OF MINNEAPOLIS-BASED CARLSON SPECIAL ISSUE WWDProject Preview Retail Jackpot PHOTO BY BRIAN TO PHOTO

With over 500 exhibitors vying for the same buying dollars, the Retailers’ Daily Newspaper will put your brand front and center. Bonus distribution: Daily to show attendees Section II: February 8 Space Close: January 23

For more information, contact Gus Floris, associate publisher (New York), at 212.630.4636, WWD Style Starts Here™ or Deborah Levy, senior account manager (West Coast), at 323.965.7283, or your WWD sales representative. 18 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 18, 2007 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

Production Director A leading high-end contemporary womens’ designer company is seeking GREAT GROWTH OPPORTUNITY! a seasoned, highly motivated Production Manager to handle all facets of Production. Candidate will possess a minimum of 10 yrs. experience, If you are a fledging business with a lot of potential for expan- with extensive knitwear experience required. Madison Avenue Flagship Boutique sion but are finding yourself struggling with financing sourcing Responsibilities will include a strong background & relationship with and logistics, we may have your solution. We are looking to Sales Executive - overseas suppliers. Candidate must possess a good technical become strategic partners with fashion companies/brands that 3 years plus experience in women’s wear luxury retail. have an existing established or promising product and market. understanding of fabric and manufacturing. Extensive experience and travel will be required working with our production bases in Asia and Europe. Jr. Sales Associate / Administrative Assistant - We provide expertise in developing a sample line, sourcing of all fabrics and components, production, quality control, ship- We offer an exciting opportunity with competitive salaries & comprehensive Great opportunity for growth. ping, & distribution including the financing of these functions. benefits. Please email resume with salary history and subject header; Stock Associate Production Manager and your name to: Utilize your resources designing, selling & marketing in order Full benefits, please send resume with salary requirements to: to grow your business. [email protected] We will only contact those candidates for further consideration. Email: [email protected] or Fax: (212)230-1110 (EOE) PLEASE EMAIL A BRIEF OUTLINE OF YOUR BUSINESS INCLUDING CONTACT PERSON AND PHONE NUMBER TO: Equal Opportunity Employer [email protected] ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Reserve Now Northeast Territory Global producer/marketer of apparel seeks account executive for women’s branded collection.

Full Service Design Studio REQUIREMENTS: Fall sampling in couture embroidery also 7th Ave. - Opportunity!!! 5+years related sales experience; Proven ability to develop offering design, patternmaking & sewing Great space available for rent in one of and retain customers and maximize sales in assigned of individual samples or complete private the most prestigious bldgs. on 7th Ave. territory; Excellent interpersonal skills; Effective verbal and label packages. Call Geri (212)840-7070 Approx. 500-600 s.f. Doorman; Kitchen; Window view; Bright light. Must see...! written communication and mathematical skills; Facility with Call: 201-410-1616/ 646-710-0915 Excel spreadsheets for analysis and reporting; Must be Reserve a booth now at the premier hiring event PATTERNS, SAMPLES, authorized to work in USA. Search For Space In Garment Center for the fashion, retail and beauty industries. Meet PRODUCTIONS Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee Competitive salary and comprehensive All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. www.midcomre.com Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 benefit package. hundreds of prescreened candidates in one day! Oxford Industries, Inc. (NYSE: OXM) Equal Opportunity Employer. FEBRUARY 9 10 AM - 3 PM GOTHAM HALL, NYC PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Showrooms & Lofts Résumé and salary history/required via e-mail: PRODUCTIONS BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS [email protected] Full service shop to the trade. Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Design Asst./Jr. Fit Model Contact Seth Berk for reservations: PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD Leading importer of knits and sweaters High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- looking for full time Junior Model/Design 212-655-4505, ext. 244 sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 Assistant at NYC showroom. Height 5’7" - Bust 35" - Bra Size 34B [email protected] Waist 27" - Low Hip 37" Designer Buyer Great salary & benefits with opportunity Planning Analyst for growth. Must be computer literate. www.FashionCareerExpo.com Acct Mgr & Jr Mktg Pro Please fax resume to VP of Design at: Allocator The Wedding Salon. Min 2 yrs exp for 212-221-8569 a Luxury Bridal Show. E-mail resume: To apply, please log on to: PRODUCTION AVAILABLE [email protected] Established MFG of shirts, blouses & Visit us: www.WeddingSalon.com www.intermixonline.com Click on the Career Page PATTERN DIRECTOR...... TO 135K polos in D.R. Long term production EXEC ASST. $30K Intimates/Sleepwear Exp Only available. Call Steve at: 860 -677-7207 ADMIN. ASST. $$ E/O/E College Grad wanted Supervise 10, Gerber College grad wanted DESIGNER ASST JR’S Some Experience Req’d. Strong Mgmt/ Tech Skills [email protected] Must be good with #’s Jr Sweater co seeks Tech Designer Design Please send Resume to: & computer savvy with min 3 years exp to join fast paced [email protected] Send Resume to: import team. Able to generate sketch- [email protected] es and initial spec packages. Must Fabric Sourcing PATTERNMAKER know Excel and have good organiza- Jonden Knit Sportwear Co. seeks exp. tion and follow-up skills with overseas Assistant person, Bklyn warehouse. Gerber skills a plus. Fax: (718) 369-4927. Bi-Lingual Chinese factories. Fax resume: 212-382-2549 Fast Growing Luxury Menswear Company Experienced person must have fabric Designer-Freelance based in South Norwalk CT looking knowledge, and be detail oriented 10+ yrs exp in Women’s & Children’s. Prod’n Coord $55K to fill 2 positions in the design dept. with good follow-up skills. Strong in Specialize in sweaters/knits. Seeking Sourcing, Time’n Action, Calendar Excel, email and all basic computer Part Time Freelance work @ home or [email protected] 212-947-3400 DESIGNER programs. Job requires someone who Energetic, organized designer w/min 5 works on building charts and collect- P/G PURCHASER in house. Flats, Specs, Trends, Designs, DESIGNER Looking for an experienced piece good Illustrator, I-Graphics, Web PDM. yrs experience in similar high-end ing info as well as being able to Bridge Sptwr Co in NYC seeks crea- market. Extensive knowledge of all problem solve and follow instructions purchasor for multi-divisional "After 5" Call Allison 516-802-2360 CHILDREN’S tive designer w/ luxury taste & excel- Dress company. In addition to being [email protected] aspects of men’s design including den- in detail. Person must be good at COMPUTER lent color sense. We are known for ele- im, bottoms and jackets. Photoshop / multi tasking and prioritizing. computer literate, candidate must gant coordinated separates and suits Illustrator and PDM required. Please fax resume with salary have excellent follow up skills and be ARTIST catering for the modern sophisticated requirements, Attn - Rasha to : able to work well under pressure. women. Right candidate must have 10 TECHNICAL DESIGNER (212) 685-4341 Email resume and salary Major Childrenswear Company seeks a plus yrs experience in woven & knit- Must have experience in fit, sample re- requirements in confidence to talented & experienced Girls Artist to ted garments. Willing to work with view, communicating with factories, Factory Mgr $60-80K. Exp in mens or [email protected] work in Illustrator. Must be able to merchandiser according to our market highly organized. Must know how to womens woven shirts. Supervise 250 draw flats and have great color sense. needs. Efficient, organized, and can measure garments, knowledge of grad- sewers. Tech knowledge of construction PLANNER/ ANALYST Sourcing Tour to China Please email resumes to: handle pressure plus sound knowledge ing. 2-4 yrs experience in technical of better shirts. Will relo to North East. Planning/Forecasting/Inventory American Co. offers a 4 nights/5 days [email protected] of embellishments is essential. design, PDM and Aria PDM required. 973-564-9236 or [email protected] Retail Link Req’d China Sourcing Tour @ $350.00 + Air Contact Linda Richman at: Pls send your resume w/salary req. Email resume as a Word attachment [email protected] (new luxury 4 star hotel; rate based upon 212-244-6023 ext. 255 Fax: 212-947-4609; to: [email protected] GRAPHIC ARTIST double occupancy; single occupancy avail.) Email: [email protected] Boys and Girls. Creative. •Transportation to & from airport Resume and Samples to Design [email protected] Product Development Mgr. •English speaking guide/every 2 people Design •Breakfast & dinner (no lunch) Assistant Designer DEREK LAM Call: 212-564-4943 or 646-939-3121 Bridge/Contemporary Suit & related HAWKE & CO GRAPHIC DESIGNER Individual will be exposed to all aspects separates house seeks individual w/ good Midtown mfgr of hip & trendy furniture, of the design process from concept, to organization and sketching abilities. DESIGNER OUTFITTER bedding, lighting & room décor for the selection of fabric to the fit of the Fax resume: 212-869-5393 Est’d. Special Occasion Dress Co. seeks Come join the most exciting Outerwear kids, tweens & teens seeks designers garments. They will follow & develop innovative & creative Designer/Stylist Company in the Country. We are looking with at least 2 years experience. Must garments from idea conception to the with knowledge of current trends, colors, for forward thinkers to work in a have strong Illustrator skills, sample-making stage. They’ll also ensure Design and fabrics. Must have Missy or Jr. Special creative and fun environment. color sense & patternmaking ability. a smooth transition from sampling to Occasion experience and be willing to Must have background in gifts, toys or production. Candidate must be extremely ASSISTANT DESIGNER travel. Please E-mail resumes in confi- DESIGNER ASSISTANT organized & detail oriented. They must Work with the Design Staff creative & home décor. Experience with mass dence to: [email protected] retailers, encaps & planagrams a plus. have an understanding of the quality and WONDERFUL OPPORTUNITY executing line development. Position taste level that is Derek Lam. Knowledge require Illustrator & Photoshop, good skill Send resume & salary reqs to: FOR THE RIGHT PERSON! [email protected]. of garment construction & patternmaking of sketching & good sense of embroidery. a major plus. Fax resumes: 212-929-1581 NY based luxury sweater Co. seeks self Excellent salary & opportunity for growth. motivated and detail oriented individual Please fax Attn Design: 212-643-0414 to work directly with design on specs DESIGNER LAWYER Girls 4/16 Jr. driven import sprtswr co Product Devel/Prod Coord and layouts, trim research and related A boutique NYC law practice in the Novelty-driven womens casual sports- product development tasks. The ideal seeks talented designer with min 5 DESIGN fashion/ creative industries is seeking yrs exp. Proficient in Illust req’d to wear co. seeks individual w/ capabili- candidate will have a strong design MAGASHONI APPAREL GROUP an ASSOCIATE ATTORNEY. 4+ years ties to multi-task. Ability to handle & sensibility and great computer skills. design knit/woven line for mass mkt Private label design studio seeks transactional experience in trademark, accts. Responsible from concept thru grow accounts from start to finish. Sweater experience a plus. candidates for the following positions: corporate, employment, some litigation, Duties include: production. Great environment. Email Accessories Designer - to design hdbgs , FAX RESUME TO : 212-302-6527 immigration a plus. Top credentials req’d. •Working w/ buyers in the showroom resume to: [email protected] contemporary taste level with good Contact: [email protected] communication skills for buyers & HK. to discuss product requirements. DESIGN ASSISTANT Associate Sweater Tech Designer - •Coordinating product development Fast paced NYC apparel co seeks high to assist in knitwear division with strong with overseas offices. energy, creative individual. Must have sweater construction knowledge & a Merchandise Allocator •Maintaining & overseeing the Est’d apparel company seeking for an production cycle from start to finish. minimum 1-2 yrs experience w/ a de- DESIGNERS WANTED team player. Minimum 2 yrs. experience. exp’d allocator. Must have experience gree in fashion design. Must have the Lg Accessory co Seeks Graphic Artist Dress Designer – Contemporary taste in allocation and customer service. Candidate must be highly organized, following program knowledge: Illustra- & a Creative Better Leather Designer level to handle private label account. Strong communication skills and team meticulous & have the ability to main- tor CS2 or 9.0, Photoshop, Microsoft for 2 New Licenses. Proficient Minimum 5 years experience. work required. Please send resume to: tain relationships w/ key accounts. Outlook & Excel. Pls fax resume & Photoshop + Illustrator a MUST. Great incentive-based opportunity. Send resume to Fax: (212) 869-3179 E-mail: [email protected] salary req’s to: [email protected] [email protected] or E-mail: [email protected] Email: [email protected] WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 18, 2007 19 WWD.COM Hamburg Sells $1.6B Stake in Beiersdorf BERLIN — The city of Hamburg has sold its 10 percent Co. last year. Sally said it distributes to more than stake in Beiersdorf. Sally Beauty Appoints CFO 3,100 stores and has revenues of more than $2 billion Deutsche Bank AG on Wednesday started selling the NEW YORK — Sally Beauty Holdings Inc. has named annually. city’s shares in the German cosmetics giant, a holding David Rea senior vice president, — Michelle Edgar that’s worth as much as 1.26 bil- chief financial David lion euros, or $1.6 billion at cur- offi cer and trea- Rea rent exchange rates. surer. According to Deutsche Bank, Rea, who re- Number Six at Sundance up to 25.2 million shares were of- BEAUTY BEAT ports to Gary NEW YORK — Lucky Number Six fered to institutional investors for Winterhalter, Fragrances, along with Cointreau, between 48 euros and 50 euros, or $62.01 and $64.60, a president and chief executive offi - Krug Champagne and Electrolux, share. The City of Hamburg took over the shares from cer, oversees accounting, treasury, have partnered with Bon Appétit to Allianz AG in 2004. finance, tax, investor relations, create a pop-up Supper Club Jan. Media reports suggest Beiersdorf may join risk management and loss preven- 20 to 23, during the Sundance Film Frankfurt’s DAX or the German share index after the tion. Rea was most recently with La Festival in Park City, Utah. sale, which, if complete, would boost Beiersdorf ’s free- Quinta Corp., where he was presi- The event will feature Bon Appétit fl oat to about 32 percent, a company spokeswoman dent and chief operating offi cer from executive chef Cat Cora and celebrity noted. However, she added, other factors aside from 2005 through early 2006. He’s also chefs Giada De Laurentiis, host of the the increase in free-fl oating shares would determine worked at Debartolo Realty Corp. Food Network’s “Everyday Italian”; the timing of Beiersdorf ’s DAX entry. “David brings to Sally Beauty Michael Schulson, chef of Buddakan By late Wednesday, the fi nance senator for the City Holdings signifi cant fi nancial and in New York, and David Walzog, chef of Hamburg, Michael Freytag, reported that the trans- operational leadership based on his of SW Steakhouse at the Wynn Las action had been successful and that all the shares had extensive experience in multiunit Vegas. been sold. According to Freytag, the shares were sold businesses and public companies,” The space will host a number of for 48 euros, or $62.01. Beiersdorf shares closed down Winterhalter said in a statement. Sundance celebratory events, such as 4.09 percent at 47.81 euros, or $61.88, in Frankfurt on Sally Beauty, a retailer and distribu- New Line Cinema’s 40th anniversary Wednesday. tor of professional beauty supplies, and cast parties for several fi lms. — Melissa Drier was spun off from Alberto-Culver — Stephanie D. Smith

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Must have strong tion, organization and pc skills. organized: private label knowledge a existing relationship w/ specialty chains Hanover Dire ct, Inc. has created an exciting new position, a Account Executive and experience in the jeans market. Send resumes & salary reqs to: plus. Please send resume & salary req Well est’d. NYC Men’s, Ladies, and Boys Designer/Product Developer for Apparel of the growing Company [email protected] or fax 718-422-0780. to: [email protected] Excellent package offered! Kids brand. The ideal candidate will play a key role in product Sleepwear/Robe Co. seeks a motivated Email resume to [email protected] TECHNICAL DESIGNERS $HI and qualified Account Executive for our development of new children’s and women’s apparel from 1) Childrens 2) C/S Knits or Wovens JCPenney account. Must have thorough concept to finalization for our catalog and internet site. This Sales Assistant knowledge of JCPenney’s systems and SALES PROFESSIONAL Leading Women’s Apparel Co seeks 3) Sweaters 4) Assistants or Associates Well known missy contemporary Call (212)643-8090 Fax (212)643-8127 AGCY processes. Excellent Opportunity. Salary candidate must be entrepreneurial & understand fabrications, detail oriented candidate with min 2 commensurate with experience. Benefits knitwear Co. seeks highly motivated threads and textiles. Clearly communicating product specifications years exp to assist in EDI, process and 401K. Fax resume to: 646-304-8489 sales exec. w /min 5 yrs exp’d. & strong and sketches to our China office is essential. Strong product orders, run various reports, work with Technical Designer well est’d contacts w/Major, Nat’l. Chain. small stores and other various admin- Please email resume to: knowledge necessary as well as experience in manufacturing istrative duties. Must have high energy YOUNIQUE CLOTHING Ladies’ Outerwear [email protected] level. Oppty to grow in fast paced envi- DENIM/KNITS/WOVENS Seeking Salesperson w/ est’d contacts at the lowest cost. In addition, successful candidates will with buyers in major chain stores, have the following knowledge, skills and abilities: ronment. Great package. Fax to HR Mgr. 212-354-3051 Due to expansion, we are seeking self private label and branded. Customer motivated, well organized, team player following a must. Please email resume: • 5-10 years of design/product development experience technical designers. Must be proficient [email protected] • Experience working with overseas manufacturers in technical flat sketching of all styles • Merchandise planning and analysis in Illustrator, have knowledge of gar- Men’s Apparel ment construction and build detailed Leading men’s apparel importer seeks • Computer literate SAMPLE CUTTER tech packs using Microsoft Excel, as aggressive salespersons in the discount • Worldwide travel Fashion Designer seeks exp’d Sample well as basic knowledge of Photoshop. and bargain market with current ac- Cutter with knowledge in grading PLEASE FAX RESUME : 212-764-9185 counts. Fax resume (212) 564-2993. • Bachelor’s degree and custom couture eveningwear. • Keen awareness of trends and fashion Call Vickie @ 212-596-4125 SALES REP • Catalog or direct marketing experience a plus but not necessary Seeking an energetic, self motivated Sales Assistant sales representative to maintain and Located in Weehawken, New Jersey, we are 8 minutes away TEXTILE DESIGNER ECI New York expand customer base for junior’s from Manhattan via ferry, offer a competitive compensation denim collection. A minimum of 3 SHOWROOM ASSISTANT Home Furnishings A better manufacturer of Women’s years experience with dept & chain package, as well as a unique opportunity to benefit from the Agent Italian Apparel Companies seeks Vera Wang Design House is starting Branded & Private Label Sportswear stores a must! success of this catalog. a computer exp’d., fashion conscious indi- a home furnishings division. We are seeks highly energetic sales assistant Please email or fax resumes to: vidual for registering orders, invoices, looking for a textile designer with 3-4 to work with management on key ac- [email protected] or If you are interested in this excellent opportunity, please email and answering phones. Must have strong years of experience. CAD print counts. Min 2 yrs exp. Must be highly 212-997-8431 your resume to Toni Radcliffe at [email protected] Excel skills and be able to multi task. and/or woven design abilities a must. organized & have good computer skills. Fax or E-mail resumes to: Home furnishings background is a Email: [email protected] 212-765-4929 / [email protected] plus, but not required. Fax: 212-382-0237 Production Assistant Production Coordinator Please send resume and cover letter Intimate Apparel Company seeks to: [email protected] with highly motivated & detail oriented Internationally acclaimed Interior Design the Subject Header: HOME collection (fabric, furniture, carpets) Sales Executive indiv. for major follow up with facto- Trim Buyer $55-60k. Min 1 year exp ries in fast paced environment. Will seeks a highly motivated PC with great TECH. ASSISTANT NEW YORK BASED organization, communication, computer buying domestic/import for designer Children’s Sales oversee all aspects of production to Leading manufacturer private label Div. Better Knitwear Co. seeks a motivated Upscale Children’s Shop seeks Assistant skills, and experience in all production co. Must hang w/ Tahari, Vera Wang, professional to maintain existing account ensure on-time delivery thru daily seeking Tech Asst. Must be computer R. Lauren, Michael Kohrs, Marc Managers for its Upper East Side loca- communication between design/sales aspects. Responsible for production structure, as well as develop new busi- coordination w/overseas vendors from literate, with excellent verbal & written Jacobs, etc. Email: [email protected] tions. Applicants should possess strong & overseas vendors. Must have work- ness. Must be an organized team player, selling/communication skills. Friendly, ing knowledge of Microsoft Outlook, pre-production to delivery, QC and communication skills. Individual must willing to travel, and possess strong sales staff support. F/T position in LIC, energetic, customer service oriented, Word & Excel. FAX resume, attn.: E. be efficient & fast paced but extremely presentation skills. Candidate must have with the ability to interact with custom- Williams (212) 842-4031. EOE. by subway minutes from GCT – bene- 7 - 10 years experience working w/major fits + salary commensurate with expe- detail oriented. Knits knowledge is a ers, as well as colleagues is a must. Prior plus. Please e-mail your resume to: Dept. Stores & discounters. Salary ne- Retail Sales experience a plus. Competi- rience. Fax/E-mail resume/salary req’s: gotiable, based upon experience. E-mail Production Assistant 718-228-9484 / [email protected] [email protected] tive hourly salary with bonus potential. Midtown home product and lighting resumes to: [email protected] Medical benefits. Applicants should Fax mfgr seeks organized and detail- their resume to: 914-697-7679 oriented individual for fast-paced Production Coordinator production dept. 2 years exp needed Private Label importer seeks organized with strong communication and pc individual who is detail oriented. Need TECH DESIGNER Exclusive Boutique skills; exp with mass retailers a plus. 3 years exp. min. Email your resume to: F/T or P/T Salesperson w/own following. [email protected] Jr.knit&woven importer is seeking an Accessories Salesperson SALES MANAGER Send resumes & salary reqs to individual with 2 +years experience in POLGAT TEXTILES LTD. High commission. For more info, contact [email protected] or fax 718-422-0780. Large accessory co. seeks highly moti- Ann; Mon.-Sat., 11AM-6PM: 212-265-4778 CAD/Adobe/Photoshop and be able to vated salesperson for growing jewelry World leading worsted wool fabric mill make full Tech-Packs. Fax or E-mail to: PRODUCTION ASSISTANTS- 30k QA MANAGER div. Must have 2 years exp to sell seeks a sales manager for our Manhat- Follow up, tracking, w.i.p. Lab mgmt. SPC, Testing, 212-302-7732 / [email protected] specialty stores, chains & mid tier and tan office. 5 years of proven experience [email protected] Compliance, Stds., Manuals mass. Fax resume: 212-302-2753 in textile business. A great opportunity 800-544-5878 [email protected] for a self-motivated person. Tech Designers Account Exec (NY) Pls. E-mail CV to: [email protected] Exciting opportunity for Woven’s Missy/contemp., L.A. based import Technical Designers! Must have 3-5 company considered leader in trend- SALES PERSON years woven’s experience, and knowl- oriented, moderate sportswear category, Children’s Wear Key Private Label edge of specs, garment construction is seeking an aggressive and enthusi- Importer seeks salesperson with and sample approval process. Excel- astic person for their N.Y. showroom. experience in Private Label field ~3yrs lent compensation package! Please Est’d contacts w/ major dept stores, experience a must, with strong retail Jonden by Linda Leal send resume/salary requirements to: excellent comm. skills and comp. lit. relationships. Email your resume to Updated Missy Sportswear Line [email protected] are a must. 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