Knit a Homer NEW YORK — As the Academic Year Ends, WWD Brings You Round Two of Our Coverage of Student Fashion Shows

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WYATT EXITS WARNACO/2 MUDD’S NEW BACKERS/2 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • May 25, 2004 • $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Knit a Homer NEW YORK — As the academic year ends, WWD brings you round two of our coverage of student fashion shows. The final grade? Another handful of bright hopefuls with the right training and enough creative mojo to make things interesting. Here, from Nan Kyoung Seo, an MFA student at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco, an intricately knitted angora and lambskin coat over a silk, cotton and Lycra spandex turtleneck. Winner of the CFDA Best Portfolio Scholarship in 2003, she says her collection was inspired by “a maze in winter with snow-covered branches.” For more student designers, see pages 6 and 7.

Burberry’s Bonanza: Luxe Brand Eyes Growth As Earnings Climb 75% By Samantha Conti LONDON — The turnaround is over at Burberry and now the brand’s in growth mode. Rose Marie Bravo, its chief executive officer who over the last six years has overseen the transformation of the British label from a dusty company known for trenchcoats to one of luxury’s major brands, said Monday that Burberry is entering its next phase. “In many ways, this is a new era for Burberry,” said Bravo, who joined Burberry in September 1997. “We’ve completed the turnaround, and now See Burberry’s, Page12 PHOTO BY RANDY BROOK RANDY PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 25, 2004 WWDTUESDAY Ready-to-Wear/Textiles New Asian Backers at Mudd GENERAL By Scott Malone more than 17,000 employees at its “We have the potential to grab factories in China and Cambodia. an older teenage girl,” she said. Led by strong women’s wear and fragrance sales and aggressive retail NEW YORK — A pair of Asian ap- As of Monday afternoon Eastern “We’re not going from black to 1 expansion, Burberry reported a 75.3 percent surge in profits. parel makers bought a majority Daylight Time, it had a market white. But we will update our A consortium of Asian apparel companies, represented by Conrad Lung, stake in junior jeans powerhouse capitalization of $126.4 million on image to speak to the 18- to 20- 2 bought a majority stake in junior jeans powerhouse Mudd. Mudd on Monday and, with the the Hong Kong stock exchange. It year-old customer….We believe new backing, the company has set also currently produces Mudd’s the customer we have aspires to EYE: Cannes goes out in style…Yann Samuell’s tale of obsessive itself the ambitious goal of hitting swimwear products. be like her sister or an older girl.” 4 love…Models dine with Alaïa…Plus a scoop. the $1 billion revenue mark. Gilbert said the new backers Lung also noted the company Barneys returned to the black for the first quarter, reporting earnings of The new investors are Tack will bring Mudd much-needed will be seeking acquisition candi- 5 $3.5 million. Fat Group International Ltd., a sourcing expertise. dates. “That is very much the publicly traded apparel maker “If we had a weakness in this strategy of the whole company,” George, the fashion and accessories brand created by Wal-Mart’s Asda subsidiary, based in Hong Kong, and Wind- company, it’s that nobody in the he said. “We’re going to be focus- 5 will establish George Global to centralize its design, sourcing and manufacturing. sor Garment, a Chinese apparel company was ever trained in ing on mergers and acquisitions READY-TO-WEAR: A group of top designers have headed back to the company. production,” he said. “We were and licensing.” 8 classroom this spring. Mudd founder Dick Gilbert all sales guys who got together In addition to getting new and shareholder Conrad Lung years ago.” owners, Mudd got a new home on BEAUTY BEAT: The beauty profession quickly figured out how to get lawmakers’ —who represented the new in- Gilbert said the risks inherent Monday. The executives were in- 13 attention on Capitol Hill: Offer free haircuts, manicures, facials and massages. vestors in their approach to in that lack of knowledge became terviewed at Gilbert’s still-bare- Classified Advertisements ...... 14-15 Mudd — disclosed the news in apparent to him last year when bones office in the firm’s new an exclusive interview Monday shipments started to come in late. headquarters and showroom, a To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is at the company’s Manhattan of- His suppliers blamed hang-ups in 8,500-square-foot 29th-floor space [email protected], using the individual’s name. fices. They did not detail finan- Customs, which Gilbert said he at 1407 Broadway in the Garment WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. cial terms of the transaction. was never able to understand. District. Pictures were propped VOLUME 187, NO. 109. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional Lung, who is also an owner of “We didn’t even know,” he said. against the wall, still waiting to issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three the New York importer Sunnex “That’s how stupid we were.” be hung. additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; and of the Go Silk bridge line, Lung said sourcing expertise The deal does not include Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, said the investors first ap- will become all the more impor- Paper Denim & Cloth, a high-end Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior proached Mudd in August be- tant over the next year as the jeans line that Mudd launched in Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- cause they believed the company 147 nations of the World Trade 2000. Gilbert said that line has President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration has “a lot of room to grow.” Organization drop their quotas passed to other private owners. No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. “Globalization has now creat- on textiles and apparel. He declined to provide further POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. ed very affluent consumer “The WTO change is looming, details. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is economies in Asia and there’s and that will affect all companies, Paper, Denim & Cloth’s for- required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new also room for growth in Europe,” not just Mudd,” he said. “You mer vice president, Scott Mor- subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production Lung said. Mudd’s sales — in- need to rethink your global sourc- rison, resigned his position in correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild cluding 16 categories of licensed ing and production strategies.” February and Gilbert named his magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully products — last year came in at He noted that Tack Fat also son, Chris Gilbert, to succeed screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive around $500 million, Gilbert said. operates a chain of retail stores him, with the new title of chief these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED Gilbert, 61, said he will re- in China, which will aid in operating officer. Morrison has MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND main on board as chief executive Mudd’s entry into that region. since launched the Earnest Sewn TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART officer and also retains an owner- “It’s notoriously tough to grow jeans line. WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ship stake in the firm, which he there, unless you have an on-the- Gilbert founded Mudd in 1995 ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. cofounded in late 1995. His for- ground partnership,” he said. after a previous business, Zena mer partners — Martin Weisfeld, Gilbert has experience with jeans — which also had been a Jo Ann Jacobsen and George the difficulty of expanding into moderate-priced junior line — Fontini — have sold their stakes Asia. In August 2002, Mudd hit the skids. Zena relaunched in and left the company, he added. signed a deal with a former sup- 2002, still owned by Gilbert, but In Brief Pam Prahl, 37, who in Febru- plier to help it expand into the made under license by W.E. ary was named executive assis- Asian market, initially through Stevens of Nashville. ● TWO OUT AT TOO: Tween girl retailer Too Inc. said Kent tant to the president, takes on the South Korea. That company During the hour-long inter- Kleeberger, executive vice president and chief financial officer, new role of chief operating offi- never produced the results view, Gilbert recalled that on an and James Petty, president and general manger of Limited Too, re- cer. Gilbert said Prahl was pro- Mudd expected, and the firm early sales call, “somebody at one signed effective June 23. According to the company, Kleeberger moted because “I needed to canceled the agreement last of the department stores said, and Petty are leaving to “pursue other career interests.” William bring some youth and energy into year, he said. ‘We’ll order it if you change the May, a 29-year veteran currently serving as the company’s chief op- this company.” The company also is looking to name. The Mudd name is stupid.’” erating officer, will take over Kleeberger’s responsibilities as cfo. Gilbert said he will focus on update its brand image, to make it He plugged on anyway, and by A search for Petty’s replacement is under way. long-term growth and acquisition more global and more appealing 1998, the company hit the $100 opportunities, while Prahl will to shoppers past their early teen million sales mark and signed its ● ON THE ROCKS: Poiray, the French jeweler, has filed for the oversee day-to-day operations. years, Prahl said. Mudd jeans first licensing deal. Today the equivalent of Chapter 11 debt protection. A hearing today at the Lung will work on global market- typically retail for $25 to $35 at company has licensed out the commercial court in Paris will determine if the firm will be liqui- ing plans for the firm. department stores and national rights to such categories of mer- dated or granted debt protection. A spokeswoman for the house, Tack Fat is a manufacturer of chains in the U.S. It also has some chandise as hats, shoes, eyewear which was founded in the mid-Seventies, confirmed it had lost swimwear, jeans and tops that has European distribution. and outerwear. $398,055, or 334,500 euros at current exchange, over the last three years. Sales last year were $7.1 million, or 6 million euros at current exchange, she said. Poiray, owned by the Swiss investment fund Lac Investment, employs 35 people and operates four bou- To m Wyatt Resigns at Warnaco tiques in France. ● MORPHING MARZOTTO: Changes are afoot at Marzotto. Just NEW YORK — Tom Wyatt re- Warnaco, following a 23-year International business has been one year into his tenure, Giovanni Gajo has stepped down as signed Monday as president of run at VF Corp., where he rose strong, and the Lejaby brand has chairman of the fashion and textile company. Marzotto was mum the Intimate Apparel Division of to president of the Vanity Fair been going in a nice direction.” In on the departure, saying only that Gajo left “for personal rea- The Warnaco Group Inc. Intimates division. addition to Lejaby, Lejaby Rose sons” and that deputy chairman and chief executive officer Wyatt rejoined Warnaco in Wyatt didn’t return several and JLo Lingerie, Wyatt was re- Antonio Favrin will soon call a board meeting to address the May 2002 after four years as phone calls Monday seeking sponsible for such brands as Olga, issue. No word yet on a successor, but an Italian press report president of the Parisian de- comment. However Joseph R. Warner’s and Body Nancy Ganz. named Andrea Donà dalle Rose, a Marzotto shareholder, as a partment store chain, based in Gromek, Warnaco’s president Gromek said Wyatt’s succes- contender for the job. At Marzotto, the chairman’s post is consid- Birmingham, Ala. Before that, and chief executive officer, told sor has not yet been named. ered to be a symbolic one as Favrin oversees daily operations at he did a nine-month stint at WWD: “Tom has been commut- At the company’s annual the company. As noted, there have been divisions between mem- ing from Birmingham, Ala., for meeting last week, Gromek noted bers of the Marzotto family. A year ago, the family formed a new the past two years. He made the the company’s business units shareholders’ pact that excluded patriarch Pietro Marzotto. decision and didn’t want to relo- represent two main groups: those cate his family up here.” ready for revenue growth and ● COURT TO HEAR AGRICULTURE CASE: The Supreme Court Prior to Gromek’s appoint- those where profitability needs said Monday it would consider the legality of a promotion pro- ment in April 2003, Wyatt had improvement. He said both the gram for beef, which had been struck down by the Eighth Circuit been considered a candidate for innerwear business and Calvin Court of Appeals. The system is funded by a mandatory fee paid the ceo post of Warnaco, the $1.37 Klein Jeans needed to improve by beef farmers, and finances the “Beef: It’s What’s for Dinner” billion diversified apparel firm. their profitability. In its most re- campaign, among other things. Importers questioned whether a Asked how the company’s inti- cent quarter, ended April 3, review of the beef organization could lead to a review of the cot- mate apparel businesses was far- Warnaco reported that revenues ton checkoff, which funds Cotton Incorporated. “As a practical ing, Gromek said, “New business in the intimate apparel group de- matter, as goes beef, so will go cotton and the many other com- ventures such as Lejaby Rose and clined 3.8 percent to $141.2 mil- modities subject to these programs,” Brenda Jacobs, counsel to JLo Lingerie by Jennifer Lopez lion from $146.8 million, hurt in the U.S. Association of Importers of Textiles and Apparel, wrote are moving nicely. But we are part by continued weakness in in a memo to organization members. somewhat disappointed with the the Warner and Olga lines. progress of our U.S. business. — Karyn Monget [Partners in Excellence 2004]

We congratulate Tommy Bahama and The Natori Company

With pride and gratitude, Nordstrom honors the 2004 recipients of our Partners in Excellence Award. Each year, this award is given to companies whose products and business practices best reflect our commitment to quality, value, service, partnership, innovation and business ethics.

Thank you for helping us provide our customers with the very best, every day. 4 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 25, 2004

X Ashley Judd in Giorgio EYE SCOOP Armani. BRIEF ENCOUNTERS: Scarlett Johansson seems to be going out French of her way to make it evident that her appearance in an upcoming Calvin Klein cosmetics campaign is not a full-on endorsement. Not only The Calvin Klein pajama party. did the actress turn up at the company’s racy underwear party on Friday night wearing another designer Toast on her back, she sprinted down the street afterward to avoid photographers waiting outside. Meanwhile, the stars of the Calvin Klein As the sun set on Cannes last weekend, Underwear campaigns — Hilary Swank and Freddie Ljungberg — gamely there was no shortage of fashion greeted a crowd now intimately familiar with their bodies at Milk Studios, moments to close out the festival. done up as an elaborate boudoir with one long hallway filled with a row of eye® At Thursday night’s AmFar male models standing behind a white curtain in the company’s latest benefit, the style undercurrent was styles, which vaguely resemble a thong worn in reverse. flowing as freely as the champagne, Ljungberg had flown into New York that morning from an appearance despite the admonitions in San Francisco, where he’d walked out of his hotel room into a Marion against chitchat Maggie Cheung similarly disturbing gauntlet — that day’s Examiner had been wrapped Cotillard emanating from emcee in Sonia Rykiel. with advertisements featuring his naked torso and placed before every in Giorgio Sharon Stone. Carine door in the hallway. Armani. Roitfeld played co-host to designers Hedi Emmanuelle “I’m looking at all this and it’s a bit embarrassing, really,” Ljungberg Slimane, Donatella Versace and Olivier Béart in said. “I keep telling myself, ‘Don’t kid yourself, I’m just a soccer Theyskens, while Harvey Weinstein shared Olivier player.’” Ljungberg also had a shocking confession: Calvin Klein did a his latest style discovery: “Tom Ford taught Theyskens. little enhancement on the campaign — the tattoo of a panther crawling me that if I button my top jacket button I lose up his abdomen in the ads is actually located on Ljungberg’s back. 20 pounds.” Women’s wear designer Francisco Costa had another set of briefs on Not quite satisfied with just making a night his mind, however, having just filed an application for a new co-op in out of AmFar, several guests rushed off to Murray Hill, which should provide for an interesting board meeting. Naomi Campbell’s “Rouge et Blanc” birthday Costa’s package included personal letters of reference from his former party at a beach club in St. Tropez, including employers — Tom Ford, Oscar de la Renta and Eliza Bolen Reed, who Laura Elena Harring and Adrien Brody. It was wrote that her only misgiving would be not to have the chance for Costa the usual self-promotion fest, with a pamphlet to buy a residence in her building. detailing sponsors and local hot spots that read more like a travelogue. The party favor? A white T-shirt sporting a color photo of Campbell’s face on the front, and the words “I was there” on the back. Meanwhile, Giorgio Armani bid on — and won — a one-of-a-kind Horst photograph that was on Alaïa’sAngels proud display in his cabin on board Mariù, where he hosted a no-shoes-required cocktail party the following evening. Ashley Judd showed up in jeans and running Though several of his more Stephanie shoes, her cocker spaniels Buttermilk and Shug in tow. “I try to take them everywhere, recent creations were as long as it’s not inappropriate,” Judd said. “But Buttermilk lifted his leg when we Seymour displayed on mannequins at were in the pharmacy today, and I thought I was going to die.” and the Guggenheim for 24 The pooches were better behaved chez Armani, though some guests — Azzedine hours or so, you only had including Marion Cotillard, Natalie Cole and Alanis Morissette — couldn’t resist Alaïa three hours or less to catch a feeding them bites of prosciutto-wrapped grisini and parmigiano reggiano that are glimpse of the supermodel staples on board. On the starboard side of the deck, Sheryl Crow drank beers and muses of Azzedine Alaïa — gabbed with her two “cycle wife” friends. The trio are living in Spain where their Stephanie Seymour, Karolina significant others have been training. (Crow’s beau is Lance Armstrong.) Kurkova and Natalia The next night, Crow, Cole and Morissette crooned Cole Porter tunes at the after Vodianova — posing, party for the “De-Lovely” party atop a stage constructed several hundred yards into drinking and eating lobster the Mediterranean, while Judd (who co-stars in the film with Kevin Kline), Tilda salad in their very own Swinton, Emmanuelle Béart and Maggie Cheung took it all in from a red tent on the painstakingly created gowns shore. At the end of the evening, Judd gave a graceful shrug and winked, “Now I Thursday night at a benefit think I’m going to go to bed for about 10 hours.” for the museum. Not to be outdone, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana hosted their own Vodianova, beaming in a disco-fest Friday night at V.I.P., Chopard’s temporary after-hours club at the Palm girlish print dress, said she Beach Hotel. The cavernous series of tents was drenched in silver fringe specially was wearing her first Alaïa. for the evening, and the party boys (and a few scantily clad girls) were out in full “But I’ve been a fan of his force in the mirrored, revolving dance floor. “This is just the case,” Gabbana yelled since I became interested Tilda over the earsplitting house music as to why he decided to throw the party. “We’re in fashion,” she explained, Swinton here to have fun.” earnestly. CANNES PHOTOS BY WIREIMAGE. CANNES PHOTOS BY “I’m one of the young members of the club,” everyone would know exactly what it would look quipped Kurkova, who made like,” Samuell says of the film’s fantastical a point of nuzzling the cinematography. designer’s head in her Direct Effect Casting the film had its own share of drama. “I breasts — which were at the LOS ANGELES — Passion, betrayal and two felt like I was giving my baby up for adoption, so I same height as the top of beautiful co-stars — would you expect anything had to have complete trust in my actors,” he says. his head. Kurkova added else from a smash hit from France? Whether He plucked Guillaume Canet (best known to that Alaïa knows how to Yann Samuell’s feature film debut, “Love Me If American audiences from the Leonardo DiCaprio make an outfit just for her You Dare,” a visually rich tale of flick “The Beach”) and French girl- — she doesn’t even need to obsessive love that opened here Yann of-the-moment Marion Cotillard to go to his studio. Friday, translates to this side of Samuell be his star-crossed lovers. Over the course of the the Atlantic is another question Samuell says he is considering evening, Seymour, in an entirely. relocating to the U.S., and his next Alaïa she has been seen out Nevertheless, Hollywood has project could warrant that move. in a few times before, grew already welcomed the 38-year-old He is planning to adapt and direct quite emotional. (She shared writer-director with open arms. “In an American novel dear to his a table with the designer; her America I’ve received 40 scripts,” heart which he refuses to name. husband, Peter Brant; Al says Samuell, who lives with his “The author says he’s gotten many Pacino, and Grace wife and four children in Chartres, requests to adapt the book, but I Hightower.) Her tears didn’t France, an hour west of Paris. am the first director he has said appear to be linked to the “Many are dreadful, but there have yes to in 25 years,” says Samuell. fact that she is once again been many beautiful offers.” Though the book’s title remains a pregnant. “I always cry when Ironically, he hasn’t received a mystery, it’s probably safe to assume I talk about Azzedine,” single offer in his native country. that it’s a tale with an upbeat Seymour said, wiping away That may be because Samuell ending. “I feel like I have a duty to her mascara. “I’ve known was determined to make “Love Me If You Dare” bring happiness or hope to an audience, because him since I was 14. He’s his way or not at all. After working for 10 years as movies cost so much money to make and there are made me three wedding an illustrator, he spent three years writing the people starving in the world,” he says. “Maybe in a dresses. I’m like his script and looking for financing. “I made story few years I’ll be corrupted, but not yet.” Natalia Karolina daughter — he gave me boards and paintings of the sets and costumes so — Marcy Medina Vodianova Kurkova away at my wedding.” CALVIN KLEIN AND ALAIA PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER KLEIN AND ALAIA PHOTOS BY CALVIN SAMUELL BY TYLER BOYE SAMUELL BY WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 25, 2004 5 Barneys Posts Profit George Centralizes Global Operations By Samantha Conti As Comps Rise 22% LONDON — George, the fashion and accessories brand created By Anamaria Wilson ongoing renovations and expan- by Wal-Mart’s Asda subsidiary, sions at its flagship stores on has taken another step toward NEW YORK — Double-digit com- Madison Avenue and in Beverly its goal of becoming the world’s parable-store sales gains helped Hills. Sales growth at its premier biggest mass clothing brand. Barneys New York Inc. find its New York, Beverly Hills and Asda said in a statement Mon- way back into the black for the Chicago locations, along with the day it plans to centralize first quarter. Co-op stores in New York and George’s design, sourcing and For the three months ended Miami, exceeded the company’s manufacturing operations to May 1, the high-end retailer re- overall gains. ensure the brand’s consistency, ported earnings of $3.5 million, Selling, general and adminis- design integrity and quality as it or 25 cents a diluted share, com- trative expenses rose to $42.2 rolls out to what could eventual- pared with a loss of $1.2 million, million from $37.7 million, a 500 ly be 5,000 Wal-Mart-owned or 9 cents a share, in the corre- basis-point increase to 46.3 per- stores worldwide. Asda will set George opened a second set of stand-alone trial stores last week. sponding period a year earlier. cent of sales compared with 41.3 up a nerve center for the brand manufacturing. With the estab- big part of that.” Sales jumped 23.5 percent to percent reported in the year-ago called George Global, which will lishment of George Global, the The brand currently has sales $112.8 million from $91.4 mil- quarter. be headed by Andy Bond, the brand will operate like many of about $1.79 billion, or 1 billion lion. Comparable-store sales in- Yet, Socol remains realistic company’s general merchandise other global fashion labels and pounds, worldwide, and contin- creased 22 percent, marking the about the second quarter. “I can’t trading director and the busi- offer unified, seasonal collec- ues to expand. Earlier this year, company’s fourth consecutive imagine it can continue at this ness strategist behind George. tions to its representatives in George launched a lingerie line quarter of positive comps. level,” he said in the interview. In coming months, Asda plans each market. and catwalk-driven fashion col- “Obviously, when you have a “I’ve been around more than five to name two senior directors of George Global also will over- lection to be sold alongside its 22 percent comp-store increase, or 10 years, and I’ve never expe- George Global. One will be see sourcing — and take full men’s and women’s clothing and it means most of the categories rienced a quarter where you responsible for product design advantage of the economies of accessories. Over the past few are doing exceptionally well,” have a 22 percent comp-store and development, and the other scale offered by Asda’s parent, years, it has gone into such cate- Howard Socol, chairman, presi- sales increase. This is really ex- will be in charge of sourcing and Wal-Mart. “Five years ago, gories as activewear, formalwear dent and chief executive officer, traordinary. So far, May has start- manufacturing. Over the next before Asda was bought by Wal- and tailored clothing. told WWD on Monday, citing pared off well and we continue to be two years, Asda foresees creat- Mart, a standard pair of jeans In the past week, George ticularly strong performances in cautiously optimistic. ing an additional 100 jobs at cost $26.80 [or 14.99 pounds at unveiled a second set of stand- the designer, Barneys New York “I think it really depends on George Global, which will be current exchange]. Today, we’re alone trial stores, in Northampton, collection and the Co-op divi- the consumers’ mental health,” based at George’s headquarters selling jeans for $7.16 [or 4 in the Midlands, and Preston, in sions that carry contemporary he continued. “The fashions are in Leicestershire, England. pounds] — and they’re a better northwest England. The first designers. right on and people feel good “We are taking control of the quality,” said the spokeswoman, George trial units opened in Leeds “To me, there are two really about them. Our inventory is the fashion and supply chain and adding the global sourcing will and Croydon in September. great businesses happening out freshest it’s ever been. I think shaping up George to turn it into extend to components such as The Northampton store is not there in retail land and they are with a presidential election hap- a global brand,” said a George zippers and buttons. near an Asda supermarket and the the luxury business and the con- pening that the current adminis- spokeswoman. “This new struc- George Global is expected to spokeswoman said the company temporary business,” continued tration is going to try to make ture will help accelerate the be fully operational in two years was curious to see how a stand- Socol. “We’re very happy that we the economy very buoyant.” growth.” and Asda expects the line to be alone George would fare in an are in both of them and that As part of its expansion plans, George is currently the U.K.’s eventually sold in as many as environment where the public is we’ve really expanded our Co-op a fourth Co-op store is slated to second-largest clothing retailer 5,000 Wal-Mart stores world- not necessarily aware of the businesses over the last three open on Manhattan’s Upper West by volume, after Marks & Spen- wide. The spokeswoman said the brand. The Preston unit is across years so we could take advantage Side in September 2004, and an- cer plc. Over the past few years, rollout of George will vary, the street from a Marks & Spencer. of that. Besides apparel, it’s also other, in Chicago, in February, as it has launched successful trials depending on the market. There are no plans for a full been a phenomenal shoe [sea- noted. Another two Co-ops are in Wal-Mart stores in Germany, The creation of George U.K. rollout of stand-alone stores, son] and it’s been the spring of slated to open within six weeks of the U.S., South Korea, Japan, Global comes as no surprise. the spokeswoman said, adding the handbag.” the Chicago store in yet-to-be-dis- Mexico and Canada. Last September, Bond told WWD Asda wants to wait one year to Socol, in a statement, said the closed locations. Under the current operation, that Wal-Mart’s goal is for assess how the trial is working. retailer continues to improve its —With contributions from representatives from each of George to become the world’s George’s latest announcement existing store productivity with Ross Tucker those markets receive a design biggest clothing brand. “It’s an comes just a week after M&S pack from George’s in-house audacious goal, and not one wooed Kate Bostock, who is cur- team of designers in the U.K. that’s easy to achieve,” he said, rently product director of George, YOUNG ROCKER: New York They adapt those designs to adding: “It’s clear that Wal-Mart away from the company. She will radio station Z100 held its their markets, source their own has big ambitions for apparel become director of women’s wear Fashion Scoops Zootopia concert at Madison materials and rely on their own generally, and George will be a at M&S later this year. Square Garden on Friday, sponsored by DKNY Jeans, and Donna Karan couldn’t help but take her 16-year-old granddaughter, McKenzie. They showed up at 9 p.m., just an hour before the three-hour concert ended and in time to see the closing act, Maroon 5. “I’m here as a grandmother,” Karan said. “The kids are so Vermont ‘Endangered’ by Wal-Mart Growth young. I can’t believe how young they all are, but it’s fantastic. There’s such a pulsating energy here. And the Black-Eyed Peas are so cool.” By Katherine Bowers believe it’s a terrific solution because scale is an important issue. We have a very healthy balance of BUNNY SHOP: Playboy’s designer links just keep growing. To further BOSTON — Fearful that new Wal-Mart super- national chains and locally owned businesses. It’s a celebrate the 50th anniversary of Playboy Enterprises, a group of designers centers would spoil Vermont’s bucolic character, the tricky balance to maintain, but an important one.” and fashion arbiters have nonprofit National Trust for Historic Preservation Wal-Mart spokeswoman Mia Masten would only contributed original has listed the Green Mountain State as one of confirm plans to build a store — not a supercenter clothing and accessories America’s top 11 “most endangered” historic places. — in St. Albans in a designated growth corridor. pieces featuring the Paul Bruhn, executive director of the The proposed 150,000-square-foot unit would cre- company’s bunny logo, Preservation Trust of Vermont, who nominated ate about 300 jobs and may open as soon as winter which will be auctioned the state for the national endangered list, said the 2005 if the required approvals proceed smoothly. off at an event tonight to world’s largest retailer is planning seven stores of Masten said the retailer “will consider” other benefit the Design 150,000 to 175,000 square feet each in St. Albans, stores in Vermont, but did not provide a time frame. Industries Foundation Morrisville, Newport/Derby, St. Johnsbury, Bruhn, citing conversations with local town plan- Fighting Aids, or DIFFA. Bennington, Rutland and Middlebury. ners and elected officials, added that some of the Diane von Furstenberg, Wal-Mart, based in Bentonville, Ark., already new Vermont stores would sell groceries, as well. who submitted a one-of-a- operates four stores in Vermont, which is its low- In 1993, Vermont was the last state to get a kind silk jersey wrap est representation in any U.S. state, and they are Wal-Mart, a move fought by opponents who cited

dress, said, “Playboy for WATTS/WIREIMAGE MYCHAL PHOTO BY among the retailer’s smallest domestic stores, at everything from sprawl-related environmental me is a wink from my Donna Karan with McKenzie and Fergie and 70,000 to 115,000 square feet. impact to loss of jobs and retail diversity that could childhood at what I Apple from The Black-Eyed Peas at Zootopia. The move comes as Wal-Mart is embroiled in threaten historic town centers. always considered legislative and legal battles over California super- There are signs some of the state’s communities American naughtiness and glamour.” Items on the block will also include a centers and also faces increased scrutiny in are again girding for battle. Bennington town plan- gold and pink sapphire locket by Jade Jagger for Garrard, a Dunhill watch Chicago, where the company is trying to open its ner Daniel Monks said a local select board in April with Vacheron Constantin movement and a couture gown embroidered with first stores — a vote by the Board of Alderman is approved an interim zoning bylaw that would pro- gold rabbit heads by Donatella Versace that will come complete with two scheduled for Wednesday. Opponents, including hibit new stores of more than 75,000 square feet tickets to the 50th anniversary party at the Playboy Mansion in Los those who succeeded in defeating a plan for a Wal- from opening for as long as two years. The plan- Angeles. A 1970s women’s clutch donated by Tiffany Dubin shows off a Mart in Inglewood, Calif., have argued that the ning commission is working on “making some cap vintage Playboy magazine cover beneath a see-through Lucite shell, but company pays low salaries and its big-box stores to permanently deal with big-box retail,” he said. Dubin won’t be revealing much on the night of the auction. “There will be hurt small local businesses, as well as having a “As much as people complain about Wal-Mart bunnies in the room. You can’t compete with that. It’s better to go the detrimental effect on the environment. being here, you would not know it by looking at opposite way and dress conservatively.” When asked what she planned to “Back in the Nineties, we worked very closely the parking lot,” said Lanea Tripp, 29, a stay-at- bid on, Dubin effused, “I want the bustier and kilt. I’m obsessed with with Wal-Mart to help build a 70,000-square-foot home mother who shops at the Wal-Mart in Vivienne Westwood. Anything she does is genius.” store in downtown Rutland,” Bruhn said. “We still Rutland. “It is always packed.” 6 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 25, 2004

NEW YORK — The country’s design and art school student fashion shows came to an end this past weekend much the same way as they began — with a bang and an exhilarating burst of talent. The ideas kept flowing, from whimsical takes on Barbie and looks smartly recycling such unlikely items as coffee filters to retail-ready swingy coats. As always, there was a new version of that fashion perennial, the cocktail dress, this time in black and white polkadots. Most impressive, however, was the deft tailoring and use of luxurious fabrics by many young hopefuls. Here, more from the Class of 2004.

HYUN-JUNG KO Academy of Art University,

San Francisco Honor Roll

ANNE RYAN Rhode Island School of Design

KANAKO MAEDA ▲ Academy of Art University PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN, KIEFFER, DAVID GEHOSKY AND RANDY BROOK AND RANDY GEHOSKY DAVID ERICKSEN, KIEFFER, KYLE PHOTOS BY WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 25, 2004 7

ELIZABETH OWENS R.I.S.D.

LARA GRANT Academy of Art University

KASSIE MCDONALD ANGELENE HAYES R.I.S.D. Heather Roberts’ Critic Award for Excellence, Moore College of Art and Design, Philadelphia

PAULA COLLINS Academy of Art University

ANNE NOVOTNY Cornelia Steckl Fashion Fellowship, School of the Art Institute of Chicago 8 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 25, 2004

Ready-to-Wear Report CHIA CHIUNG CHONG; KARAN BY JERRY SPEIER BY CHIA CHIUNG CHONG; KARAN

MILLER PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER; VON FURSTENBERG MILLER PHOTO BY BY Nicole Miller with High School of Fashion Industries students, Diane von Furstenberg with Savannah College of Art president Paula Wallace, and Donna Karan with New School University president Bob Kerrey. Designers Turn Academic By Rosemary Feitelberg me,” Kamali said. “I want to truly make a difference in this world and At SCAD’s fashion show in Savannah on May 15, touch people,” added Karan, who took more than 20 NEW YORK — Several big-name designers have gone Posen said he told students “how important it is to fol- years to complete her bachelor’s degree. “I’d like to see back to school in recent weeks, if only for a spell. low your instinct and keep creating. You have to push myself getting involved in teaching and helping students, Diane von Furstenberg was the commencement the envelope, try new things and be persistent.” more so than I already do, and to accelerate that pace.” speaker Saturday at the Savannah College of Art and Posen alleviated a lot of the financial burden of Nicole Miller spent Wednesday night surrounded by Design, and Zac Posen was honored at the school’s an- being on his own by inking a deal with Sean “P. Diddy” admiring students at the High School of Fashion nual fashion show the week before. Donna Karan Combs, but he still relates to struggling designers. “I am Industries. After taking in their hour-long “Fashion’s picked up an honorary doctorate at Friday’s graduation not that far removed from the students at these schools. Four Seasons” show and taking home an honorary ceremonies for the New School University, as reported. I mean, four years ago, I was still in school, so I do feel judge award, Miller said, “I’m all for encouraging youth, Norma Kamali, who has participated in Principal for a that I can relate to them and offer them advice,” he but the thing is they need help all the time. These are Day for 10 consecutive years, is trying to help set up a said. “This one in particular was a great honor because high school students, but this to me was an eye opener. discovery school for freshman at the Walton High I received an award from André Leon Talley, who has This school is amazing. They have such positive atti- School, and Yeohlee stepped to the podium as guest lec- tudes. They have to do their regular curriculum, but turer at Harvard University’s Graduate School of they’re happy to be here and they love their teachers. I Design last month. I’d like to see myself getting remember everyone being cynical and hating everyone What they got and what they gave was as varied as “ in high school.” their collections. When the audience consists of thou- involved in teaching and helping Miller said her friend, Cyndi Lauper, called sands of students, there are bound to be some laughs. As Wednesday to invite her to an event that night. “I told SCAD’s 1,000 grads marched across the stage to get their students, more so than I her I was going to the High School of Fashion diplomas, “one very cute guy who was a graphic design- Industries, and she said, ‘I went there,’” Miller said. “I er” paused and told von Furstenberg, “I’m doing this for already do. guess her talents were elsewhere. I don’t think she grad- you,” and flashed his commencement gown to expose a ” — Donna Karan uated, but she did go here for a while.” bathrobe styled like one of the designer’s wrap dresses. In between signing a few autographs, Miller said hav- Von Furstenberg was equally spontaneous about her been a mentor and inspiration to me, as well.” ing student interns keeps her really stimulated. speech, opting not to have a scripted one. Instead she Aside from the honor, Posen said he was struck by “Hundreds” of students inquired about internships, focused on nine main points, including “frustration is Savannah’s beauty. “It has an air of mystery that is real- partially due to her cameo on “The Apprentice.” “I don’t an asset and a motivation,” “fear is not an option,” ly inspiring. I took pictures under the oldest oak tree in know what’s going on with this industry, but we have “work will become your identity” and “persevere even the city and stared at the hanging moss for hours,” had so many requests,” she said. though the word is boring.” Posen said. “And the food — I could eat all day there.” Asked if the interest might be due to designers being Beyond encouraging students to stay the course, de- Even before she marched in the New School’s cere- personalities in their own right, Miller said, “Probably, signers can help schools on a broader spectrum, Kamali mony, Karan said she was seriously considering dedi- a lot of designers are frustrated movie stars so they told WWD. “The beauty of our industry is the sense of cating more time to teaching, most likely at Parsons want the attention.” urgency. So many people need that kind of intelligence School of Design, a division of the New School. CFDA executive director Peter Arnold and president — not that we’re the smartest people in the world — but Teaching and inspiring people is what she loves about Stan Herman were in the crowd Wednesday and on we do know how to do things quickly and efficiently.” her job, she said during an interview earlier this month. their feet at the end of the RadiciSpandex-sponsored Kamali has helped her alma mater, Washington “I really do think, as I look to the future, that the pri- student fashion show. After the faux snow had fallen on Irving High School, develop a design room and class ority for me is to make a difference in other peoples’ the bridal finale, Herman said, “This is where it all that hopefully will be a prototype for other disciplines, lives,” Karan said. “I’m feeling like I am beginning starts. This is an industry school where kids learn their such as music. The designer, a board member of Public again. I have a new source of energy. trade to be sample hands and pattern makers. There Education Needs Civic Involvement in Learning, visited are very few schools that do that.” the new design room Thursday to judge students’ final The seemingly flammable, barely there outfits projects. At her suggestion, the room’s walls were paint- OUT ON THE weren’t quite department store material. “There are ed white, the hardwood floors were stripped, white lab TOWN: Tracy & things you don’t really want to wear, but it’s fantasy coats were given to students to wear in class and classi- MARKET BASKET Michael, the clothing. As president of the CFDA, this is our mission cal music was played. Houston-based daytime dress company, will introduce a 28- — to keep schools flourishing and this is where it Her next project is to have architects compete to de- piece holiday eveningwear line under a new label, Atelier Tracy starts,” said Herman. sign an innovative discovery school for Walton where & Michael. The firm will skip the fall season for its daytime As was the case years ago, when Herman hired a teachers will know every student and every parent. It dress collection and plans to pick it up again in the spring. young man from the Upper East Side’s High School of also would alleviate overcrowding at the main school, Michael Smith said he and his partner, Tracy Huffor, Art & Design as an intern. “It was Marc Jacobs. That’s Kamali said. “Joel Klein [commissioner of schools] and developed the higher-end eveningwear at the request of a perfect example of how these things happen,” Mayor Bloomberg are so progressive. This is the oppor- Neiman Marcus. “We really designed this almost like a red- Herman said. tunity for something like this,” she said. carpet collection, especially the satin pieces,” Smith said. Yeohlee, known for her architectural approach to She also has proven her weight with this city’s depart- Atelier Tracy & Michael wholesales from $275 to $550, fashion, used her book, “Yeohlee: Work — Material ment of education, recruiting her friend, Bette Midler, compared with its daytime dresses, which wholesale at Architecture,” as well as slides and photographs to lead who has “picked a lot of pockets” to help raise nearly $2 between $150 and $206. The eveningwear includes a silk, the discussion at Harvard. To show the parallels be- million for Washington Irving. “The idea is to bring in wool and viscose houndstooth suit with a pencil skirt and a tween architecture and fashion, Yeohlee showed images friends. There’s been a big push toward other very im- three-quarter sleeve jacket; a French duchess satin cocktail of an exhibition she worked on for the Netherlands portant charities. But I hear more people in the fashion dress with a full box-pleat skirt and a 6-yard petticoat, and a Architecture Institute. industry are recognizing the importance of education,” halter satin gown with a slim skirt and train. “I wanted them to be inspired to do things on their said Kamali. For spring 2005, Tracy & Michael plans to add a third own. I still believe if you have passion about things, any- But the reception isn’t always warm. Kamali recalled label of gowns retailing for between $1,000 and $1,500. thing is possible. I don’t think about fashion in too rigid a her first time speaking as a mentor to students in her Smith declined to project sales but said he expects to manner,” she said. “When you’re in college, expressing former Washington Irving homeroom. “I thought I was triple volume this year. The company sells to about 40 yourself is the important thing, before all the responsi- being so interesting, and the students were putting on boutiques, as well as Neiman’s and Saks Fifth Avenue. bilities of the industry land squarely on your shoulders.” makeup, talking to each other and staring away from — With contributions from Eric Wilson SAS, the leader in business intelligence software. Marketmax, a division of SAS, the leader in merchandise intelligence. So many shoppers. So little time. Predict emerging trends instead of chasing them.

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SAS and all other SAS Institute Inc. product or service names are registered trademarks or trademarks of SAS Institute Inc. in the USA and other countries. ® indicates USA registration. Other brand and product names are trademarks of their respective companies. © 2004 SAS Institute Inc. All rights reserved. 280183US.0504 10 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 25, 2004 New methods of Te xtile & Trade Report tracking the supply chain were on display Quota Talk at Material World at Material World.

By Georgia Lee ting first to the type and amount of fabric, then to the cut of the garments. MIAMI BEACH — While exhibitors and “It’s similar to the Zara model,” said attendees at last week’s Material World Brooks, referring to the Spanish fast- trade show here said they expect to see fashion chain. apparel manufacturing continue its shift The show ran May 18-20 at the Miami to Asia — particularly China — after quo- Beach Convention Center, with around 600 tas are lifted next year, they said they exhibiting companies. According to show don’t expect to see all manufacturing ac- organizers, 10,600 buyers attended Material tivity pile into one country. World. Past editions of the show — without The 147 nations of the World Trade the machinery component — typically drew Organization are set to drop their quotas about 3,500 buyers, organizers said. on textiles and apparel on Jan. 1. That This edition of the event also featured will mark the end of a system of restric- the SPESA Expo for the first time. tions that has played a key role in appar- Produced by the Sewn Products Equip- es within its brand coalition. “The mediocre ones closed, but they el sourcing decisions for more than three ment and Suppliers of the Americas, in “China is on track to becoming a dom- won’t all go away, because there’s a grow- decades. With quotas gone, apparel exec- Raleigh, N.C., SPESA Expo represented inant player, but it’s not a smooth road,” ing need for sophisticated factories,” utives said, efficiency, speed of delivery about one-third of total event exhibitors, he said, listing concerns such as banking, said Hernandez. “It’s been speculated and geographic balance — as well as the showing machinery from sewing ma- currency, freight costs and infrastruc- that around six or seven factories will key factor of cost — will be the primary chines to computer-aided design and ture. “For sourcing everywhere, we want emerge as dominant players, and we influence on their purchasing. manufacturing equipment. Future access to components and raw materials, want to be one.” Executives said they believe apparel SPESA shows will be held every three and we want simpler processes and a To stay competitive, Argus is working manufacturers in the Western years, in conjunction with the annual more efficient supply chain.” to boost its sales of full-package garment Hemisphere will continue to be a signifi- Material World. Executives from VF Corp. also said production programs, in which it handles cant source of goods because their geo- At the kickoff breakfast on May 18, ap- they’d be refocusing their sourcing deci- every step of the supply chain, from raw graphic proximity to the U.S. market pro- parel executives said that, as they head sions in 2005 on fewer vendors. They said materials purchasing to delivery. Last vides an inherent speed advantage. into 2005, they expect to reduce the overall two key concerns will be whether the U.S. year, full-package sales represented 15 Exhibitors also stressed that im- number of factories they buy from, focus- imposes temporary safeguard quotas on percent of business, but Hernandez said porters can improve the speed and effi- ing instead on a few large-scale suppliers. Chinese imports — a move allowed by the he wants it to be 85 percent of his compa- ciency of their supply chains through the Wes Card, chief financial officer and terms of China’s WTO-entry deal — as ny’s sales by the end of 2006. use of computer systems that allow exec- chief operating officer at Jones Apparel well as new trade pacts, such as the pro- Ed Emma, president and chief operat- utives in the U.S. to track each step in Group Inc., said his company will be con- posed Central American Free Trade ing officer of Jockey International, said the production of a garment. centrating its business on factories that Agreement. the company would continue sourcing in “The new term is ‘speed sourcing,’” said can handle more functions, including “Sourcing is a complex, strategic, tac- the Western Hemisphere. He said the re- Alan Brooks, president of Miami-based preproduction processes such as design tical decision,” said Tom Glaser, manag- gion’s future success depends on the de- New Generation Computing. He said this and product development. But the coming director of VF global sourcing. velopment of a stronger local fabric in- refers to a production system in which buy- pany will maintain sourcing in Turkey, “There will be a massive consolida- dustry and on the passage of CAFTA. He ers make decisions at each step of the man- Pakistan, India and the Western tion of vendors,” said Glaser. “We want to added that, over the next year, Jockey ufacturing process — for instance, commit- Hemisphere, especially for specific nich- narrow our vendor list, and work with will likely continue to grow its Asian pro- those where trust works duction, which now represents less than both ways.” 25 percent of its total. Manufacturers in Executives also addressed the ongo- Spring/Summer 2005 SOURCING Central and South Amer- ing issue of deflation. Apparel prices ica and the Caribbean have been in decline for about five years, Collection Preview! said that business al- though the Labor Department earlier ready had been lost to this month reported the Consumer Price INDIAN Asia, but asserted the Index for apparel ticked up 0.6 percent Dallas APPAREL competition motivated in April, after a 1.5 percent gain in June 4-5, 2004 the survivors to streng- March. Even with those gains, the index Dallas Market Center then their operations. remained 7.9 percent lower than it was Show times: Alfonso Hernandez, in April 1999. 8:30 am – 6:00 pm ceo of Argus Interna- “Deflation has gotten worse for three tional, a manufacturer years because of a highly promotional headquartered in El environment at retail and the casualiza- Salvador that also has tion cycle that brought lower prices,” New York factories in Nicaragua, said Card of Jones. June 9-10, 2004 New York - Penn Plaza estimated 475 factories Terry Lay, vice president and chair- Pavilion throughout Central man of the jeanswear coalition at VF, said Show times: America, Mexico and the deflation was also a by-product of con- 9:30 am – 6:00 pm Caribbean had closed in sumers’ love affair with technology — as the past two years, with consumers spend more of their income others absorbed as sub- on products such as digital music players contractors by bigger and cell phone service, less of their dis- Prepare for a New Sourcing companies. posable income is available for apparel. Relationship with India! The Fiber Price Sheet Sourcing Expo — Indian Apparel is your opportunity to learn how to source in a quota-free world and protect your supply chain by engaging directly with quality apparel suppliers in a On the last Tuesday of each month, WWD publishes the current, vertically integrated country. month-ago and year-ago fiber prices. Prices listed reflect the cost This trade mission will be combined with an educational component featuring speakers such as Rodney Birkins,Vice President of JC Penney Purchasing Corporation, Jerry Cook,Vice President of one pound of fiber. for International Trade, Sara Lee Branded Apparel, Wendy Wieland Martin, Director of Trade and Customs Services for Kellwood Company,Ted Sattler, Executive Vice President of Foreign Price on Price on Price on Operations for Philips-Van Heusen, and Thomas G.Travis, Managing Partner of Sandler,Travis & Fiber 5/25/04 4/26/04 5/23/03 Rosenberg, P.A. , discussing the post-quota environment and future sourcing strategies. Don’t miss the industry’s first comprehensive look at the impact these liberalizing trade measures Cotton 62.75 cents 68.40 cents 58.80 cents can have on your textile and apparel business. Register for this FREE,two-day event today! Wool $2.53 $2.59 $2.52 You could win the 2005 IBERC Diagnostic Program!* Polyester staple 60 cents 60 cents 52 cents Register today and you could win an assessment that includes an analysis of your products’ Polyester filament 58 cents 58 cents 65 cents Organizedsourcing matrix by: and strategic recommendations on crafting a forward-looking sourcing strategy April Synthetic PPI 105.7 105.2 106.4 tailored to your needs. *A $15,000 value. See our website for contest details. *The current cotton price is the April average on fiber being delivered to Southeastern region mills, according to Agricultural Marketing Services/USDA. The wool price is based Call 800-5TRADE-5,or visit on the average price for the week ended May 21 of 11 different thicknesses of fiber, www.IndianApparelExpo.com to register today! ranging from 15 to 30 microns, according to The Woolmark Co. Information on polyester pricing is provided by the consulting firm DeWitt & Co. The synthetic-fiber producer price Organized by: index, or PPI, is compiled by the Bureau of Labor Statistics and reflects the overall change in all synthetic-fiber prices. It is not a price in dollars but a measurement of how prices have changed since 1982, which had a PPI of 100. WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 25, 2004 11

Bridal Ulla-Maija MoriLee Grand Entrances NEW YORK — Slim silhouettes may have ruled the bridal runways for the past two years, but they aren’t the only game in town. Designers have also acquired a new appreciation for full-skirted shapes, which they’re expressing in slightly sexier looks in unexpected combinations of fabric with fresh details. Bodices are tight and narrow, often with spaghetti straps or dropped waists, while skirts come in such materials as tulle paired with lace. Imaginative combinations of pleating, draping and tucking enliven many of the gowns, too. Vera Wang

Olga D’Gallegos

Angel Sanchez

SPOSAITALIA COLLEZIONI 25/28 JUNE 2004 - COLLECTIONS 2005 Fiera Milano Porta Carlo Magno International Presentation of Bridal and Formal Wear

Organized by Expo cts - INFO: +39 02 33103420 [email protected]

in cooperation with: PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER AND THOMAS IANNACCONE JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY 12 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 25, 2004 Burberry’s Annual Earnings Soar 75.3% Continued from page one leased this summer. Dancy will ing customer demand. “As the fig- Women’s wear was the leader light of the year was the launch of we’re hopefully in growth mode. also feature in Burberry’s fall ures get bigger, so does the com- with a 14 percent rise in sales to Burberry Brit fragrance. There is a new energy, and new 2004 ready-to-wear campaign. petition,” said Bravo. “You con- 225.7 million pounds, or $382.5 By region, Europe accounted blood in the company, and I think Brand-wise, the fragrance is stantly have to reinvent yourself, million, from 197.9 million for the largest chunk of sales. that will provide good stimula- already off to a golden start: and that takes a lot of creativity.” pounds, or $305.9 million. The There, sales grew 14.6 percent to tion for the team.” Burberry Brit for women, which With regard to the fiscal year category now accounts for 33.4 346.8 million pounds, or $587.8 As noted, Brian Blake, a Gucci launched in September, has al- just ended, profits would have percent of overall revenue. million, from 302.7 million veteran, will join Burberry on ready sold more than 100 million risen 31.7 percent to 91.5 million Men’s wear and accessories pounds, or $468 million. Europe’s June 1, in the post of worldwide euros, or $122 million, at retail. pounds, or $155.1 million, from are neck-in-neck in terms of sales performance varied by market, president and chief operating of- The current fiscal year is Burberry volume, each generating about 28 the company said, with continen- ficer. Stacey Cartwright joined in shaping up to be one of consoli- Brit for men percent of revenue. tal Europe performing better March as chief financial officer. dation. In the statement, the com- Men’s wear sales rose 16.8 than the U.K. launcheslaunches Blake and Cartwright will be pany said operating margins percent to 190.1 million pounds, As reported, the U.K., which is today. members of the Burberry execu- would be “broadly consistent” today. or $322.2 million, from 162.8 mil- suffering from a drop in tourist tive committee along with Bravo. with the 2003-’04 fiscal year, and lion pounds, or $251.7 million. traffic due to threats of terrorism, Bravo made her comments as licensing revenue growth will be Accessories sales rose 11.5 per- began to pick up in March. In Burberry reported profits surged “more moderate” compared with cent to 189 million pounds, or Spain, sales growth resumed, re- 75.3 percent for the fiscal year last year. $320.3 million, from 169.5 million flecting Burberry’s repositioning ended March 31 on the back of Sales, however, are expected pounds, or $262.1 million. efforts in the region. strong women’s wear sales, ag- to grow thanks to an 8 percent in- Wholesale sales rose 14.5 per- In North America, sales grew gressive retail expansion, and crease in retail space in the form cent to 351.4 million pounds, or 15.6 percent to 162.4 million the launch of the Burberry Brit of seven new stores and conces- $595.6 million, from 306.9 million pounds, $275.3 million, while in fragrance last fall. sions. Wholesale sales are ex- pounds, or $474.5 million, thanks Asia Pacific, they grew 10.6 per- For the year-end period, Bur- pected to grow in the high single- in part to an aggressive push in cent to 162.6 million pounds, or berry posted net income that digits due to increased sales to emerging markets. $275.6 million. jumped to 91.5 million pounds, or existing customers. The financial report said in In Asia Pacific, Burberry said $155.1 million, from 52.2 million “The fall order book is very China, Burberry worked with regional growth was boosted by a pounds, or $80.7 million, in the strong, and the highlight is the local partners to open six points “rapid rebound” in the Hong prior year. Sales climbed 13.8 women’s coat category,” said of sale during the year. There are Kong market following the exter- percent to 675.8 million pounds, Bravo. “We see that as a big op- 28 stores and concessions in 17 nal shocks earlier in the year and or $1.15 billion, from 593.6 mil- portunity. We just had two trunk cities. Burberry also opened its an increase in visitors from lion pounds, or $917.8 million. shows in New York and they first Russian unit, in Moscow China. Korea, on the other hand, Dollar figures have been convert- were very successful. The num- 69.5 million pounds, or $107.5 mil- with a partner, during the period. was adversely affected by a diffi- ed at the average exchange rate. bers coming through are very lion, not including the exception- Retail sales increased 12.7 cult economic consumer and And, with the launch of Bur- good,” Bravo said. al IPO charges from the previous percent to 257.4 million pounds, credit environment. berry Brit for men today, it’s clear While growth is expected in year. Operating profit rose 54.7 or $436.3 million, from 228.4 mil- Overall, the firm opened nine the luxury goods firm isn’t taking most major markets, the compa- percent to 136.6 million pounds, lion pounds, or $353.1 million. stores during the year, and in- a breather. ny said its expectations for the or $231.5 million, from 88.3 mil- Licensing revenue gained 14.9 creased selling space by 12 per- The new face of the fragrance Spanish market are cautious be- lion pounds, or $136.5 million. percent to 67 million pounds, cent. Three stores opened in the is British heartthrob Hugh cause of the March 11 bombings. Sales across all regions, chan- $113.6 million, from 58.3 million U.S.; one in Europe, and four in Dancy, who stars in the film Going forward, Bravo said the nels and product categories pow- pounds, or $90.1 million. The Asia. Also, Burberry opened an “King Arthur,” which will be re- big challenges include stimulat- ered that growth. company said the licensing high- outlet store and four concessions.

MAY 2004

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THEIR PIECE OF THE PIE: As if Maxim and Stuff don’t already have the juvie market cornered, Dennis Publishing is said to be eyeing the Beauty Joins Political Foray MEMO PAD launch of a lad mag for teens. GENTLEMAN’S HOURLY: GQ editor Sources close to the company said By Joanna Ramey in chief Jim Nelson continues his an internal announcement was slow dance with young Hollywood. made last week. However, a WASHINGTON — The beauty Last Thursday, Nelson hosted a spokesman for Dennis denied that profession may be new to lobby- party for Jake Gyllenhaal, who Monday, saying, “The only internal ing Capitol Hill, but it has quick- graces the June cover, in the memos being distributed these ly figured out how to get lawmak- penthouse of L.A.’s Chateau days are regarding pizza toppings ers’ attention: free haircuts, Marmont. Mark Ruffalo, Jimmy for our NBA playoff party. manicures, facials and massages. Fallon, Chloë Sevigny and Kirsten Pepperoni, anchovies or An ornate Congressional hear- Dunst mingled to the sounds of DJ mushrooms? Looks like the ing room last Wednesday was Aristocrat. When asked about his pepperoni is going to win!” transformed into a massive — criteria for choosing cover — Jeff Bercovici and S.J. and free — afternoon of beauty subjects — which in the past few for members of Congress or their months have included such males HELTER SHELTER: Deborah staff. About 700 people sent in as Viggo Mortensen, Ashton Needleman is two steps closer to R.S.V.P.s and another 200 walk-ins Kutcher and Orlando Bloom — having a prototype of the new showed up to take advantage of Nelson said, “We have to believe Condé Nast shelter shopping the offer. Forty-one manicure, 21 in the person, that their success magazine in hand. The editor in hair, three facial, five massage is meaningful, or that it says chief has tapped the firm and two makeup stations were something about the state of the Helicopter to design the launch kept busy for five and a half American man. Jake, in issue, while Julie Mihaly has come hours, creating an atmosphere of

particular, is an actor who is on board as photo director. Still part factory, party and politicking. SAMPERTON KYLE PHOTOS BY forging his own way. He’s picked no word on a title, though. — S.J. “Some salon owners shut Members of Congress and staff took advantage of free haircuts and massages. roles that mean something to down their businesses to be him, and begun what we think is MEET THE FROCKERS: Elle is having here,” said Jill Kohler, managing plier from Hollywood, keeping an joyed the one-on-one. a very interesting career.” a branding moment it didn’t director of The Salon Associa- eye on the door for House or After Democratic Rep. Grace Nelson’s own instincts exactly expect. When Barbara tion, one of several beauty indus- Senate members and with statis- Napolitano of California got a certainly seem to be paying off. Friedmann, the magazine’s vice try entities — including cosmetics at the ready. “The profession- clear-polish manicure, she lec- Newsstand sales of GQ (which, president of marketing, hired news tology schools, nail polish ven- al nail industry accounts for $7 tured beauty officials on how to like WWD, is owned by Advance producer Tim Braun to film a short dors and J.C. Penney — that have billion in services and goods. It’s press Congress for what they Publications Inc.) are estimated sales video for advertisers, she joined forces under the Profes- as big as movie box office sales.” want. “I don’t have any idea the to be up more than 40 percent in didn’t think he would deliver a sional Beauty Federation um- last time I heard from salons,” the first quarter of 2004, virtual minidocumentary that brella in their lobbying effort. said Napolitano, a Small Busi- according to the publisher’s would attempt to display Elle’s Kohler said the event, in its fifth ness Committee member. estimate. But ad sales remain a impact on the industry and make year, was staffed by 125 salons. BEAUTY BEAT Napolitano brought five fe- challenge — pages were down stars of its fashion department. Aside from reminding law- male staffers, including an inter- almost 13 percent in the first Braun, who’s worked on news makers that the U.S. salon indus- Christine Gordon, president of national relations college intern half of 2004 to 585. programs at several of the major try employs some 1.5 million the Graham Webb Academy, a from Denmark, Najat El Ouargui, Meanwhile, a June story on networks, said, “I was in the people, generating around $70 beauty school in nearby Arling- who marveled at the mass dis- Colin Powell’s frustration with the presence of these important billion in sales of goods and serv- ton, Va., was poised to tell law- play of beautifying. She estimat- Bush administration was broken by fashion figures. I had to earn their ices, the beauty delegation had a makers about the shortage of ed the Danish would pay about GQ writer Wil Hylton. “You will see confidence, but when I did, they specific Congressional wish list. hairstylists. She said a change in $70 for the same French-tip man- many more stories like this from gave me the sort of access that At the top is passage of the pend- federal education loan rules for icure she had just received. “It’s us,” said Nelson. “We have an enabled me to tell the story ing Cosmetology Tax Fairness beauty school students would re- expensive, so not a lot of people absolute commitment to this type through their voices.” Friedman and Compliance Act. The meas- verse matters. “There are now do this,” she said. of piece, and can devote all our has decided to give the DVD a ure, pending in the House Ways six jobs for every graduate. The Andre Chreky, whose salon is energies, resources and intellect to wider release and is distributing and Means Committee, would biggest issue is human re- near the White House and who making them succeed. We’re your copies to major news outlets in the spare salon owners the cost of sources,” Gordon said. reportedly counts First Lady 24-hour men’s magazine.” hopes of securing more television paying Social Security and The door had only been open Laura Bush as a client, brought — Sara James spots for editors. — S.J. Medicare taxes on tips earned by a half hour when every beauty 10 stylists to the event. He was their employees, a standard en- station was filled as a line to celebrating the salon industry’s joyed by restaurants. enter began stretching down the political awakening. “We need a To highlight the bill’s necessi- hall. Even with the room’s tower- bigger place. It’s amazing,” said ty, hair care product producer ing ceilings, hair spray mist and Chreky, who usually charges $90 Kenra made 5,000 special bottles the smell of fragrances hung in for a haircut. Warshow Downsizes, Restructures of “Tax Credit Shampoo” with the air. Congressional staff ap- Hair couldn’t be washed, un- By Evan Clark tive officer Henry Warshow in the motto “Removes Buildup of peared to be in the majority, but derstandable for the 1908 Beaux an interview. The major cuts Taxes.” The bottles lined the top lawmakers straggled in, too. Arts-style Caucus Room, which NEW YORK — Stretch-fabric were made in the administra- tier of the hearing room’s dais One interesting juxtaposition created an elegant backdrop be- weaver H. Warshow and Sons tive or back office portions of usually reserved for House mem- was that of conservative Repub- fitting a top salon. The room is Inc. is reducing its workforce, the business. bers. The second row of seats was lican Rep. Joe Pitts, from a rural typically used by Democrats and reorganizing its management While there are no plans to taken over by a well-stocked bar. district in Pennsylvania, who Republicans to huddle with their structure and focusing on larg- add back administrative posi- Three buffet tables nearby were came in for a haircut and was party members. But, as a sign of er accounts. tions, a recent uptick in sales constantly replenished. chatted up for 20 minutes by a the beauty industry’s growing po- Warshow is one of a dwin- has the firm increasing its “The problem is the industry cosmetology student with a bur- litical savvy, the room can be re- dling number of domestic workforce in areas such as doesn’t have enough visibility in gundy-striped mohawk. “We were served for public use, free of weavers that have been forced to knitting and dyeing. Warshow Washington,” said Eric Schwartz, just talking politics,” said Todd charge, with permission from operate more efficiently to sur- said the firm has moved to a chief operating officer of OPI Hurley, of the Paul Mitchell Speaker of the House Dennis vive as the textile market be- six-day work week at its plants. Products Inc., a nail polish sup- Academy in Baltimore, who en- Hastert (R., Ill.). comes increasingly global. Founded in 1911 by Warsh- According to the National ow’s grandfather out of a push- Council of Textile Organizations, cart on Manhattan’s Lower East an industry lobbying group, the Side, there are only two U.S. has lost 257 textile mills Warshows left in the company, Spiegel in Deal to Sell Catalogue since 1997, with 20 closing so far Henry and his wife, Miriam, ex- this year. At the end of February, ecutive vice president. NEW YORK — As part of its re- important step” as the company Two weeks ago, Spiegel said according to Department of In the restructuring, the ceo, structuring, Spiegel Inc. inked an continues “to make progress to- in its quarterly report that it nar- Labor data, the industry em- who retains his title but will agreement Monday to sell Spiegel ward developing a plan of reor- rowed its loss in the first quarter ployed 412,800 people, down now focus on sales, has handed Catalog to Pangea Holdings Ltd. ganization, while focusing on to $100.5 million, or 76 cents a 51,600 from a year earlier. day-to-day operational control for $31 million plus liabilities. maximizing the value of the es- share, from $114.2 million, or 87 The privately held firm, of the firm to David Beebe, who Pangea Holdings is the firm tate for our creditors.” cents, in the year-ago quarter. which employs fewer than 500, was promoted to executive vice that’s buying the bankrupt retail- Geralynn Madonna, president Sales fell 25.9 percent to $264.4 declined to quantify the work- president and chief operating er’s Newport News business for and ceo of Spiegel Catalog, said million from $356.7 million. force reductions. Cuts were officer. Beebe had been senior $25 million, a deal that is expect- in a statement that she was The firm said retail sales at made at Warshow’s Manhattan vice president of operations. ed to close next week, the com- pleased with the deal. She Eddie Bauer fell 21 percent, offices, its knitting and weaving Completing the troika that pany said. thanked employees for their which was due to the closure of facility in Tappahannock, Va., steers the firm is Ivor Kisberg, Spiegel’s management said work in repositioning the brand. 100 Bauer stores. Same-store and in its dyeing and finishing who has been promoted to sen- the bankruptcy court is expected “In January of this year, we sales declined 2.3 percent. plant in Milton, Pa. The firm, ior vice president of sales ad- to approve bidding on the cata- introduced a redesigned Spiegel Management said the compa- which focuses on stretch wo- ministration. Kisberg, who had logue business, and that a hearing Catalog — providing today’s busy rable-store sales were dragged vens for swimwear and intimate been vice president of corpo- is scheduled for June 15. An auc- woman the ultimate ‘idea re- down by a poor performance in apparel, also has a growing rate planning reporting to tion will be held, “if necessary.” source’ and a one-stop shopping its home goods and men’s wear business supplying fabrics used Warshow, now reports to Bill Kosturos, interim chief destination,” Madonna said. “We business. But the company by the military and athletes. Beebe and is responsible for executive officer and chief re- will work diligently during the quickly added that results were “We were fat and lazy in the reorganizing and coordinating structuring officer of Spiegel sale process to execute a smooth partially offset by demand for back offices,” said chief execu- the company’s sales. Group, said in a statement that transition and fulfill the needs of its women’s apparel mix. the agreement with Pangea “is an our customers.” — Arthur Zaczkiewicz 14 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 25, 2004

BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY SALES & DESIGNERS Hong-Kong Leather and Woven APPAREL CLOSEOUTS Our client is a NY based well-established and well-known garments maker with established We buy men’s, women’s & children’s wholesaler of apparel having an annual volume in excess of apparel. Large quantities wanted. New York office seeks: Bobby 212-997-7465 [email protected] $100 million. It has an excellent track record spanning over 20 years and a sound financial and operational infrastruc- • More Sales Reps with established ture managed by a group of professionals. Client’s strengths relationship with buyers and include own state of the art manufacturing facilities located accounts in NY. Experience in in South East Asia and fully computerized compliant distribu- related field a must. tion center. To diversify and supplement its growth our client Jersey + Rib Lycra • Freelance Designers for trends Fleece + Velour is planning to establish a merger or a joint venture with exist- research & design of product line. Drake Fabrics ing companies/group in missy, junior & kids (knits & bottoms) 718-389-8902 and sleepwear fashion. The interested entity/group must Please forward CV to: have at least $10 million of annual sales and skilled and ex- [email protected] perienced team in sales, designing & merchandising. Willing- ness to grow with the company is a must. VP GENERAL Serious parties only please contact us in writing at the follow- MERCHANDISE MANAGER Assistant Designer DESIGN CLOSEOUT - PANTS ing address: 50M Apparel Mfr. seeks an exp’d High end beading & embroidery Co. Assistant Designer 15,000 pcs - navy blue pants - men’s & seeks indiv. to work directly with clients. Uptown Manhattan based doll Mfr. has women’s - all sizes. 214-275-0596 Retail Men’s Divisional or General Need to be creative, have working immediate opening. Must have fashion [email protected] Russell Bedford Stefanou Mirchandani, LLP Merchandise Mgr for key account knowledge of patterns & good color background with experience in pattern 20 West 37th Street 8th Floor management. Must be passionate sense. Must have excellent follow-up making and sketching. New York, New York 10018 & able to communicate with factories Fax: Design 917-645-1026 or about the Retail Market and have overseas regarding deliveries & costings. E-mail: [email protected] Attn: Kewal Yadav long standing relationships and Needs to be detail oriented & highly Fax#: 212-868-3498 contacts. Relocation not required. organized & able to work in a fast paced environment. Please fax resume & salary $200K to 250K + Strong requirements to: (212) 719-1847 DESIGN ASST Bridal Gowns For Sale Incentives. Confidentiality Assured. 100 sample gowns available. Fax 732-280-6190 Assistant Designer ALL POINTS Will accept best offer! Strong, very organized and detail-oriented Call 973-256-0366 (8-10AM) [email protected] Leading junior import co. specializing in wovens. Candidates must possess a design assistant needed for missy sweater minimum of 2 years experience. Have and knit importer. Thorough knowledge of worked with Illustrator 10, Photoshop 6. executing heavily embellished; labor inten- FASHION INDUSTRY SPECIALISTS sive tech packages for overseas sample WHOLESALE AND RETAIL Excellent technical & sketching skills, multi-task oriented & extensive com- making. Computer skills necessary. SALES ASSISTANT munication with overseas. Primavision, Photoshop, Illustrator. Fast -RESUMES- Please fax resume, attn. AR (212) 840-3078 paced environment. Please have at least Free Evaluation - Lifetime Updates Immediate entry-level position 2-3 years experience. Please fax resume: GILBERT CAREER RESUMES available to work with senior ASSISTANT DESIGNER Attn: Susan, Fax: 212-921-0097 (800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa account executive for large social fashionresumes.com Major children’s wear company is look- fashioncareercenter.com occasion dress manufacturer. ing for a Newborn Assistant Designer. Must be detailed oriented, ability Candidate should have 3-4 years expe- DESIGNERS rience especially in graphic art. Must Sr. Designer Sweaters $100K to learn quickly, and have good be Mac proficient. Full time only. Sr. Designer Jr Knits $80K communication skills. Excellent Fax resume to 212-564-5201 attn: Juna Asst Designer Contemp Pvt Label $40-55K computer skills necessary. Asst Designer Mod Wovens Missy $45-65K Bookkeeper/Credit Manager [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 Please fax resume in confidence Young Designer Co. seeks Office Admin. to Jerry @ 212-869-3639. for busy office. Must know QuickBooks &beabletomulti-task. Garment exp. Design/ Mgr to $135K preferred. Duties include bookkeep- Girls/ womens intimates. Manage Dept. ing, collections, and ordering supplies. Jennifer *Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 DESIGN ASSISTANT Possible to work out 4 day schedule. [email protected] Fast-paced contemp. co. seeks E-mail resume & salary requirements 37th St. Full Floor 7500 ft. exp’d, self-motivated indiv. with (mandatory): [email protected] Beautifully Built Move In Condition FABRIC R&D $80-85K Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 2-3 years exp. Must be creative, Bookkeeper Full Charge Search-www.manhattanoffices.com organized & have a strong color & Dynamic growing designer fur & FABRIC R&D $40-65K fashion sense. Fax resume to sportswear Co seeks exp’d pro to handle 488 7th Ave (36th Street) all phases including A/R mgmt & FABRIC COORD $45K CPW @ 212-840-5047 or E-mail: collection. Must be computer literate. Sr. Mgr. Womens, Vertical Retailer LIVE/WORK [email protected] Knowledge of Mas 90 a +. Excellent [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 Spacious Loft-Like Showroom opportunity. Fax resume: 212-239-0514 2 baths, 2 entries ...... $2,950 1BR Showroom Apts...... From $1495 ADMIN ASSISTANT Wood floors, Hi Ceils. Immed Occup Detail oriented to assist key account BOOKKEEPER FASHION CAREERS 212-629-8694 M-F 10a-6pm No Fee exec. with follow-up as it pertains to In Design, Tech Design & Production orders in process, etc. Strong FULL CHARGE See listings @ www.apparelstaffing.com Patterns/Samples/Beading Growing ladies clothing company on For Space in Garment Center computer skills a must. Pleasant Or Fax Resume To: (212) 302-1161 Duplicates Cut & Sew phone manner very important. 39th St seeks FT Bookkeeper. AP, AR, Helmsley-Spear, Inc. Full Service - Small Production Call 212-840-0182 or fax 212-840-1098 Reconciling, Reporting, Journal en- 212-880-0414 Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 Attn: Ivan tries. Please be organized, computer lit- LOGISTICS erate and motivated. Showroom / Office / Retail Please e-mail resume to: PATTERNS, SAMPLES, [email protected] GRAPHIC ARTIST - KIDS We find you space-best deal-no fee PRODUCTIONS MANAGER ADMIN. ASSISTANT Growing team at Calvin Klein Girls Sublet 525 7th/ready Co. seeks a candidate that Textile Co. looking for detail oriented seeks Graphic Artist. Experience Garment Center Real Estate All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. individual. Computer and communica- Call Sherry 212-719-0622. CHRISTOS designing tops a must & ability Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 has logistic exp. with specialty tion skills a must. Textile exp. helpful. to create original artwork. stores. Will need to liaison Chinese language preferred. Please fax BRIDAL DESIGNER’S ASSISTANT PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Seeking experienced and creative ASSISTANT DESIGNER Showrooms & Lofts between customer, log dept. resume with sal. req. to: 212-564-0119 Flat sketching/detailed tech packages. BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS designer’s assistant. Know all phases PRODUCTIONS & buying agent. Must have of design. Proven skills could lead to Ability to multi-task and work with Head Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Samples and patterns full servcie shop Designer. Both positions require Illustrator ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 5 yrs. exp. in specialty store designing oppty. Drape from sketch to the trade. Fine fast work. Admin Exec Assist To $70K through first pattern. Lace knowledge /Photoshop proficiency. Must be team 212-869-2699. logistics for all aspects of Top Designer, Fantastic Oppty! preferred. Must be highly motivated, players & very detail oriented. inbound freight to delivery FASHION NETWORK 201-503-1060/Fax 1070 organized and have an eye for detail. Excellent opportunities with great Warehouse Space/Service Fax resume to 212-921-0127 benefits. Please fax resumes to: of merchandise to customer. (212) 967-9292 attn: Donna DOMINICAN REPUBLIC Need to have high sense of Need warehouse space with delivery, Administrative & logistics & customer follow-up? urgency, computer literate, Computer Paternmakers Merchandising Asst. * Gerber/PDS. Jeans...... $75K WE NEED SHOWROOM TO SHARE Santiago Free Zone / 10,000 Sq Ft excellent communication Graphic Artist/Men’s Denim Call: 1-809-383-7323 skills. Please send resume Major multi-national apparel sourcing *Lectra.Better Dress Sportswear..$80K In 1407 Broadway or vicinity E-mail: [email protected] company’s liaison office seeks a Mer- [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 Freelance Call Bobbie 212-997-7465 to: (646) 366-0164 chandising and Admin. Asst. for front Growing men’s sportswear co seeks a office management and liaison with top fresh creative talent to package new apparel customers. Requires a fashion Couture Sewing line of men’s denim. Fax resume: background to work with product develop- NYC custom couture house seeks an 212-967-0643 ment / designers, preparing / delivering experienced Seamstress/Tailor who or presenting design packages, an eye has worked w/ high quality fabrics/ for detail, basic computer skills to assist garments. Emphasis on eveningwear Trade Show Booth Avail. Manager, communications with HQ in and gowns. Tel: (212) 869-2296 or Graphic Design ( 3) to $80K 10 x 10, professionally made booth. India. Multi-tasking a key requirement. Fax: (212) 869-2236 N/I/T or womens/ jr. sleepwear 1407 Building - Office Space 4 Rent Hand-painted with Bay of St Tropez Experience will be an asset. Allen*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 Excellent location w/very good floor plan background. Has its own custom-made Please fax resume to: (212) 967-2097 [email protected] in larger than normal space. 3 offices shipping cartons. Pictures can be within. Take over lease; write new lease E-mailed - best offer. Contact Lee Bow- (possible sublease available). Immediate man, Reading, PA: 610-404-1050. occupancy. Call Ron: 310-537-6100 COME JOIN OUR TEAM! Admin Since 1967 GRAPHIC DESIGNER Concept One is the fastest growing acces- W-I-N-S-T-O-N Young men’s jeanswear co. seeking a sories company in the country. W/ licens- DATA ENTRY / CLERICAL talented graphic artist to join our es from mjr national brands including APPAREL STAFFING DESIGN*SALES*MERCH Fast paced Outerwear company in team. Create cutting edge lifestyle Akademiks, Blue Marlin, Mecca, Union Midtown, seeking detail-oriented graphics for our young men’s urban & Bay, US Polo Assn, etc, we have quickly ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 person with strong computer skills skate brands. Excellent Adobe Illustra- become the"go to"resource forbranded and ability to multi-task. tor & Photoshop skills required for FASHION RESUMES and private label fashion accessory pro- Please email resumes to: this position. Fax resume to: Design grams. We offer benefits and a competitive SINCE 1970 APPAREL JOBS [email protected] Director 212-575-1109. pay package. We currently have openings or fax 212-719-2051 For Fashion and Retailing for the following position based in NY: 1)Artists: Girls-Boys-Juniors 2)Specs/Kids 3)Designers-assoc-assists boy or girl or YG men Professional Resumes Inc. DESIGNERS Call (212) 643-8090 or fax: 643-8127 (agcy) Men’s and women’s headwear, cold weather, HANDPAINTER Lifetime Updating/ handbags and backpacks. Min 3 yrs exp. DATA PROCESSING Telephone Interviews Major children’s wear company is look- Acquisition Oppt’y Good knowl. of tech, and piece goods. Strong ANALYST ing for a Handpainter to paint licensed Successful, diversified, NYC based Rush Service Available Illust skills a must. Overseas exp a plus. Assistant Designer Leading sptswr mftr seeks well- characters on fabric for showroom apparel firm seeking LDP apparel im- 60 East 42nd Street Suite 839 Email res and sal req to: [email protected] Fast paced energetic detail-oriented organized individual with strong samples. Candidate should be detail- porter with minimum volume of $8-10 New York, NY 10165 person. Must have sweater knowledge computer skills & knowledge of order oriented, neat, responsible and enthusi- million. You supply product and sales, ACCOUNTS Payable Asst-2+ yrs expr from design to production and demon- entry, allocation, and inventory astic. Must have experience in children’s weprovide total financing, sourcing, 212-697-1282 / 800-221-4425 w/an apparel or accessories mfr coding strate ability to flat sketch with meas- control. 3 yrs experience in garment apparel. Licensed experience a plus. showroom and infra-structure support. www.resumesforfashion.com checks/printing out accts, etc. $34-37K urements. Must be computer literate. center is a MUST. Please fax your resume to Please fax inquiries to 516 569-5860 Les Richards Agcy - Call (212) 221-0870 Fax 212-840-1098 or call 212-840-0182 Fax resumes to 212-268-4920 212-967-8108 Attn: Elissa WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 25, 2004 15

HOME FASHIONS RELO TO FLA SALES EXECUTIVE ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Spec Tech...... $35-45K Industry leader in home textile manu- Tech Designer...... $55-65K facturing and importing headquartered Sr. Tech...... $75-85K Multi-branded contemp. show- in NYC with overseas factories looking [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 room seeks dynamic & motivated SALES MANAGER for an experienced account executive. salesperson to join our team. 3-5 Emerging Luxury Outerwear brand seeks Experience in Sales and Mgmt. a plus. SALES ASSISTANT years exp. a MUST. Fax resume to experienced, energetic Sales Professional Weare an innovative company looking to manage its wholesale sales from NYC Independent Sales Representative for a key player. Candidate will coordi- GOTTEX CPW @ 212-840-5047 or E-mail: showroom. Established relationships with nate communication between overseas Track weekly sales reports; Follow up on [email protected] stores, knowledge of fur, and the ability South West USA factories and home office as well as deliveries; Multi-task detailed projects; to travel are required. Candidates must with customers. Job will entail produc- Work by deadline in fast-paced environ- possess strong presentational, analytical, tion as well as product development. ment; Troubleshooting; Send out samples. and communication skills. Please Fax Olsen; Europe’s renowned woman’s knit and sportswear The ideal candidate must be able to Retail math and advance proficiency in resume/salary history to: 516-338-0215 leader; is branded in North America as Olsen europe. Distributed work independently on projects, be Excel req’d. E-mail resume/salary require- Account Executive detail oriented and organized. Out- ments to: [email protected] Junior Activewear Company seeks in 42 countries worldwide, Olsen europe represents elegant, standing analytical and communica- salesperson to manage department contemporary high quality fashion. Under new management tion skills a must. Fax resume to: Samplehand stores; Kohl’s and Target accounts. Fax (212) 252-0810 Very exp’d. only. Blouses in satin, resume to (212) 354-1740, attn Robert. SALESPERSON and, due to a substantial increase in consumer demand, Olsen Georgettes. Cut, sew first fit samples. A fast growing NYC Apparel Company europe is focusing on further expansion in the U.S. There now English a must. Call 212-768-7322. needs an individual to promote junior / missy private label business. Candi- exists an excellent opportunity for a gifted sales professional, Samplemaker DRESS SALES date must have leadership qualities to be part of this growth. U.S. territory includes: For Couture Evening Co. Needs very Great Oppty! Well established dress with outstanding presentation skills. experienced worker. Excellent salary. mfr. has opening for a well organized, Sales exp. is essential & must have Texas, Oklahoma, Mississippi, Louisiana and Arkansas. Call 212-944-7144 strong aggressive sales person. 2 yrs. contacts with buyers and major stores. experience required. Please fax resume, E-mail resume: [email protected] The qualified candidate will: Sewing Machine Operators Attention. Mark (212) 730-7581 • Use the experience gained from a proven track record Leather Accessory Mfr. - Melville. as a strong "Better" Independent Woman’s specialty store Junior Jeanswear/ Experience Required. Benefits. Sales Representative to develop new and existing business 631-249-9600 James Jeans SALESPERSON WANTED! Graphic Designer Sales and Asst Sales positions available Diversified, successful NYC based apparel to increase market share. Creative, organized, experienced. If for N.Y. showroom. Candidates should company seeks salesperson for it’s junior • Establish and develop a sales strategy, which will build this is you, fax resume to: be highly motivated and extremely girls division. 10 years experience selling sales and profits. Carl (212) 719-4074 organized. Specialty store knowledge a major dept. and specialty stores a must! plus. Please e-mail resume to: Fax resume to 212 944-0323 • Be entrepreneurial and highly motivated. Merchandiser/Sales $150K+ Summer Intern [email protected] We offer a very competitive commission and commitment to Wall-Mart. Intimates or Sportswear FASHION NETWORK 201-503-1060/Fax 1070 Apparel Design Asst. a long-term partnership. This position is available immediately. Leading childrenswear company is Please e-mail resume to: [email protected] Office Help Needed seeking a highly motivated Summer Retail Store Manager or Fax: (905) 290-4647, Intern - Designer Assistant with experi- Upscale retail packaging store seeks Showroom Sales 525 AMERICA, Sweater Co. seeks reliable, ence in the children’s apparel industry. Store Manager to be responsible for Attention: Human Resources S. Decooman organized individual w/charge- back & achievement of sales and profit plans Mfr./Importer of Branded Jr. Knit Tops This candidate will assist the Senior &Sleepwear seeks exp’d. Sales Pro for collection experience. Heavy phones & Designer/Merchandiser and will be re- as well as maintaining strong custom- some filing. Strong computer skills er service standards through leading its NY Showroom. Must be energetic, sponsible for executing designs for cus- willing to travel, and have existing con- req’d. Fax resume to Lisa: 212-221-2519 tomer presentations and packages for by example with a positive energy. Sales Managers assure their areas are tacts in Chain, Specialty & Major Dept. garment production. This individual Stores. Minimum 2 years showroom sales OFFICE MANAGER should have an understanding of color, merchandised to maximize sales through utilizing their own merchandising exp. req’d. Fax or E-mail resumes to: Upscale, rapidly growing company fabric and trim details. The candidate 212-719-9328 / [email protected] seeks hands-on and detailed individual must be organized, detail oriented and abilities along with some company to assume Office Management and familiar with line development guidelines. They will maintain superior assist in Operations of a small and timelines. Must be CAD literate. customer service as well as managing successful Wholesale/Retail Business. Please email your resume to: staff. Medical and profit sharing plans Qualified Candidates must possess [email protected] or fax to (212)643- are offered. Bonus based on volume of SLS GRLSW’R 4-16 HI$$ strong communication, organizational, 2826. Please no telephone calls. EOE sales. Annual Salary is 40 to 50K Est’d co. seeks exp’d sales pro to sell DIRECTOR OF IMPORTS/LOGISTICS analytical and leadership skills, as well depending on qualifications and exp. department stores/specialties. Seeking F/T position. Exp’d, knowl- as being able to balance the broad scope This position requires some prior retail edgeable professional w/ over 10 yrs management experience preferably in A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. of the job including but not limited to T.D. T.D. T.D. T.D. 450 7TH AVE (AGCY) 268-6123 exp - major companies, Donna Karan, tracking merchandise receipts, deliver- SPEC TECHS SPEC TECHS SPEC TECHS either a Department Store or Specialty Calvin Klein - major accts, J.Crew, Lim- ies and overseas shipments, customer I NEED YOU ALL! store setting. Email resume and Salary ited, Express, etc. Call 212-696-1127. service initiatives, and manage the [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 requirements to: [email protected] daily responsibilities within a fast SWIMWEAR Salesperson paced environment. Must be computer TECH DESIGNERS/SPECS Est’d CA Missy & Jr. swimwear co. seeks literate. Company Benefits include •TD Pvt Label. Jacket Bottoms $80K exp’d acct. exec. for NY area. Must be comprehensive medical and profit •TD Work in Westchester, NY $75-805K SALES ASSOCIATE energetic, self motivated w/ contacts. sharing plans. Position is entitled to •TD Wovens Jr Sportswear $60-85K Major textile company seeking young, E-mail resume: [email protected] bonus if goals are met. This position •Assoc TD Wovens Sportswear $55K energetic, and experienced person for reports directly to the President and •Spec Techs Womens Wovens $45-55K textile sales in junior, missy, and Operations Manager. Annual salary is [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 special occasions market. 40-50K, depending on qualifications Please call 212 398-0011 X231 and experience. Please email resume and salary requirements to: TECHNICAL CAD [email protected] DESIGNER Fast paced branded & private label PAID RELO TO CT $75-80K ym’s & boy’s jeanswear co seeking TD Sweater Cut & Sew Knits experienced tech cad designer. Create Sales Associate$$ BOUTIQUE SALES production pkges for overseas office Rapidly growing Home Goods Division PAID RELO TO FLA $80-100K and presentation sketches for custom- Busy W. Village shops need manage- Int’l Prod’n Mgr. Bras, Intimates of established apparel co. seeks sales- ment / sales pros. Min. 3 yrs. retail exp. ers. Adobe Illustrator/Photoshop skills person to help strengthen its sales 806/7, HK, Taiwan, Bi-Ling Spanish A+ a must for this position. Fax Alida: 212-675-6360 [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 team. Must have exp. with mass mar- Fax Resume To: 646-674-1246 ket merchants & specialty stores. Ex- cellent opportunity! PROD. ASSIST Call Cindi 212-947-3399 X16 The fastest growing ladies suit and Technical Designer Ladies mfr. seeks exp’d tech w/ strong or e-mail: [email protected] sportswear manufacturer and importer KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS in the industry is currently searching knowledge of garment construction for a Production Assistant. Successful fit, grading from development thru candidates must have a minimum of 3 production. Must be hardworking, yrs production experience, strong data detail oriented & focused on getting entry skills, delivery tracking, and the the job done! Must have min of 5-10 ability to communicate daily with over- yrs exp. w/ excell. Pls fax resume to : SALES EXECUTIVE seas factories. We offer a competitive (212) 358-9287 Better sportswear company seeks dynamic salary and benefits package. This posi- and motivated Private Label AE w/min 5 tion is located in our mid-town Manhat- yrs exp. Able to develop existing biz tan office. Please fax your resume with TEXTILES and bring in new accounts. Must be salary requirements to the attention of Int’l. Textile Co. specializing in Novelty computer savvy. Children’s Sleepwear Mr. Evans at 973 258 0978. and Printed fabrics is looking for Sales Fax resume/sal req. to (212) 768-7651 Generous commission rate offered for Representation in the New York, Dallas Key Account Sales Rep. Our product Prod. Patternmaker/ Tech. Designer: and California markets. We are looking or yours. Major account connections Women’s high end apparel company for associates who are calling on both req’d. E-mail: [email protected] seeks tech. Patternmaker/tech. Design- domestic & offshore mfs. With our unique er. Req’d: 4 yrs. exp. in custom tailor- &strongfashion collections, the potential SALES EXECUTIVE ing as well as eveningwear. Fax for success is certain. Please contact: Est’d importer of novelty sweaters/ Designer Swimwear resumes to Alvin Valley 212.253.1946. Mr. Allan Rabinovitch @ knits seeks exp’d pro w/ strong High end Designer Swimwear Repre- [email protected] dept/specialty chain contacts to culti- sentatives wanted for ALL territories. vate new and maintain existing ac- Above market commission and literally PRODUCT counts. Positive energy and strong beautiful products. follow-up a must. Please Fax resume to: 949-248-3353 or DEVELOPMENT MGR Call or fax resume to Lisa Cheung at E-mail to: [email protected] BlissWorld, LLC, is seeking an experi- Tel: 212-302-3744/Fax:212-302-8589 enced Manager, Product Development email:[email protected] to take the Bliss and Remede product line from conception to fruition. Must European Young Women’s have experience working with labs to CONTEMPORARY COLLECTION develop product formulations. Must be Seeking Independent Sales Reps with very detailed and able to manage dead- SALES - Jeans est’d. customer base to build business lines and budgets. Prior experience in in Southwest, Southeast, Midwest. aproduct development role required Seeking experienced sales person to sell junior bottoms. Established Fax/E-mail information to: from a beauty/cosmetics company. If 514-341-1444 / [email protected] these qualities fit your profile, then we Ladies’ and Men’s relationships with major discounters, have opportunities to discuss with you. specialty chains and department Only those who love "feel good" prod- Knitwear stores a must. Fax resume to: Sales Representative ucts need apply!!! For immediate con- 212-869-5047 or email "By the Sea" is seeking experienced, sideration, please email your resume A Major Far East Vertical [email protected] commission based Road Reps for well- to: [email protected] known moderate to better designer Manufacturer of sweaters swimwear. Available Territories: and cut and sewn knitwear California, Florida, Texas Production Coordinator, Textiles (Manh) seeks a Key Sales Individual Email: [email protected] Dev. specs for prod’n of textiles per Sales Manager Fax: 212-695-2341 customer orders. Reqs: Bach-Textile with extensive selling exp. Chereskin Studio Sci or rel’d; 2 yrs rel’d exp; fluent with importers and major Women’s and Men’s Better Korean/English; & exp sourcing weav- Sportswear Collection ing, knitting, dying, printing mills in retailers, brand and product Our company is growing! Seeking 2 ag- East Asia. FAX res. to Jun Trading development accounts. Must gressive sales managers for Women’s & Corp: 212-354-5281 have solid contacts. Excel- Men’s division. Ideal candidates have department store background, relationships lent opportunity for right w/retailers, and a major understanding of Sales Representative Production Patmakers individual. better sportswear collection. Exp w/ mer- Sophisticated Environmental Clothing Better Pvt Label Dresses/Suits $80-90K chandising, sales projections, budgeting & Mfr. seeking exp/prof reps for key terri- Junior Sportswear $70-75K Please fax resume to: customer service a must. We offer a very tories. Must have strong specialty & 1st/Prod’n Patternmaker $60-65K (212) 947-1450 Attn: HS competitive salary and benefits program. Boutique accts. [email protected] [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 Fax resumes to 212-575-0755 Attn: Howard T: 718-797-6898 F: 718-797-6896 The mills who have the edge.

AMERICAS Greenwood Mills KOREA Inman Mills Choongnam Spinning Co., Ltd. CANADA Johnston Industries Kahee Co., Ltd. Atlantic Yarns Kendall Company Kuk IL Spinning Co., Ltd. Cavalier Textiles Milliken and Company Gildan Activewear PHILIPPINES National Textiles, LLC Glendale Yarns Oakdale Cotton Mills Indo Phil Textile Mills Litton Mills MEXICO Parkdale Solid Development Corporation Avante Textil, S.A. de C.V. R.L. Stowe Mills Campeche Spinning Mills Ramtex THAILAND Manufacturas Kaltex, S.A. de C.V. Southwest Textiles Far East Knitting Telas Parras, S.A. de C.V. Springs Industries K. Cotton & Gauze Co., Ltd. Textiles Electronicas, S.A. de C.V. Swift Spinning Saha-Union Public Co., Ltd. UNITED STATES UCO Spinning, LP Wade Manufacturing American Fiber & Finishing EUROPE/TURKEY Ameritex Yarn, LLC Wellstone Mills Avondale Mills WestPoint Stevens UNITED KINGDOM Charles Craft Fruit of the Loom – Ireland Cheraw Yarn Mills ASIA ITALY Cone Mills Dan River BANGLADESH Manifattura di Legnano Delta Apparel Monno Group of Industries PORTUGAL Delta Mills Marketing JMA FIACAO, S.A. Frontier Spinning Mills, LLC INDONESIA Fruit of the Loom Argo Manunggal Group Int’l. TURKEY Galey & Lord P.T. Sinar Central Sandang Sanko Holding

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