PHOTO: COURTESY OF SCHWARTZ & BENJAMIN employee engagement. to licensing and acommitment to approach artful an with 90 years, last the over business footwear — changing navigated the challenging —and ever- Schwartz &Benjamin has successfully FN MILESTONEFN SCHWARTZ &BENJAMIN @

90

MAY 27, 2013|

| 17 FN MILESTONE SCHWARTZ & BENJAMIN @ 90 × Q&A DANNY’S Q&A For Schwartz & Benjamin’s CEO, the big anniversary serves as fuel for moving forward. DRIVE BY JACQUELYN LEWIS

anny Schwartz is enthusiastic about commemorating Schwartz & Benjamin’s 90th year, but D the company CEO and third- generation footwear executive is hardly nostalgic. “I want to celebrate all the milestones we’ve hit throughout the years, [but I also] want people to see that we are a modern, vibrant company,” he said. “Maybe we are looking back [for a moment], but it really is all about going forward.” Indeed, New York-based Schwartz & Ben- jamin has set its sights on the future with a sharpened focus. Its strategy centers on streamlining product offerings and working with its existing partners that already have an international presence or the potential to go global. To that end, the company recently inked a licensing deal with Derek Lam, which launched Danny Schwartz, with footwear for spring ’13 and will continue Barbara Schwartz with the introduction of the 10 and Steve Shapiro Crosby Derek Lam this fall. “We expect substantial growth for all our current brands,” said Barbara Schwartz, direc- team parted ways with one of its licensors, Steve Jobs, whose biography they’ve praised tor of product development and wife of Danny. Juicy Couture, and closed in-house label several times in previous interviews. “If you “Each one is poised for expansion in all catego- Daniblack. In 2013, it also ended its short- have fewer products, you can devote more time ries of footwear.” lived joint venture with contemporary label to engineering each one of those to be the best Other shoe labels under the company’s um- Matiko. All three moves were aimed at homing it can be. We think we can do a better job of brella include Diane von Furstenberg, Rebecca in on the company’s strongest assets. focusing on key patterns. We are working hard Minkoff and Seven for All Mankind’s women’s “Right now, less is more,” said Schwartz & at that and we’ve improved.” offerings, as well as Kate Spade New York, Benjamin President Steve Shapiro. The firm’s licensors and other partners say which also will add footwear under sister line “You have to make a conscious effort to the formula works. Kate Spade Saturday starting this fall. watch all the development that you make “Schwartz & Benjamin has been an essential But maintaining success doesn’t just hinge on and the products that you go into, and to not part of our company’s growth,” said designer current business — it’s also about the brands no spread yourself too thin,” Schwartz added, Rebecca Minkoff, who introduced footwear to longer on the books. reiterating that both he and Shapiro continue her eponymous label in 2010 and signed a pro-

Earlier this year, the Schwartz & Benjamin to take inspiration from the late Apple mogul duction deal with Schwartz & Benjamin in & BENJAMIN OF SCHWARTZ COURTESY PHOTO:

18 | | MAY 27, 2013 STAYING IN STEP WITH STYLE IS ALWAYS IN .

WE PROUDLY SALUTE SCHWARTZ & BENJAMIN FOR 90 YEARS OF BEING ON THE FASHION FOREFRONT. FN MILESTONE SCHWARTZ & BENJAMIN @ 90 × Q&A

2011. “They are great, collaborative business version of the company partners.” you see today — still In addition to its branded lines, Schwartz a great place to work & Benjamin also has a thriving, 4-year-old where our employees private-label business that creates footwear are productive, but con- for a handful of large clients. “It’s a nice way tinue to laugh a lot. In of diversifying the company [in a way that 10 years, I see a younger, ensures] we don’t compete with ourselves,” vibrant management Shapiro said. “It’s a different arena, and we are team — perhaps includ- meeting with great success [in that division].” ing the fourth genera- Here, Danny Schwartz sounds off on mea- tion — leading us to new suring success, the significance of 90 and what successes. the next decade might bring. Do you envision the What does the 90th anniversary of Schwartz & company remaining pri- Benjamin mean to you? vately held, or would you DS: We’ve had a very long history of manufac- consider an acquisition turing, importing, designing and delivering as you look toward the products that satisfy all the needs of our licen- future? sors, our wholesale clients and the consumers’ DS: We’ll probably make needs. There aren’t that many companies in our it to 100 [as a family- industry that hit 90 and are privately owned. owned firm]. We’ve spoken to companies To what do you attribute the company’s through the years that longevity? were interested in ac- DS: First and foremost, it is that we are very quiring us or merging us Arthur Schwartz serious about the jobs we take on. It comes into their organizations. mentors son down to the job that we do and the products We never say never, but Danny in 1985 we are delivering. Then, I would say [we’ve I don’t know if that will been successful because] we treat people the ever come to pass for us. the green light to sell Kate Spade in Europe, way they would like to be treated. We try to We like to believe we are very nimble because and the U.K. [will be] our first endeavor. We live by the golden rule. It’s not that difficult we’re private. We don’t have to have board sell to a lot of Kate Spade stores in Japan, too, to be nice to people, and we also don’t believe meetings, and we can put our heads together but we’re close to announcing a [plan] to open that nice guys finish last. We work hard and and make decisions pretty quickly. some [shop-in-shops] in department stores keep our heads down and keep focused on [there]. We have a pretty strong Diane von what we are trying to do. What plans are on the horizon for the more Furstenberg business in Europe and we are immediate future? looking to expand that as well. Where would you like to see Schwartz & DS: We’re ratcheting up the intensity and Benjamin at 100? expanding our international businesses with What is your personal definition of success? DS: In 2023, I see a bigger, more diversified each of [our existing] brands. We also just got DS: There can be different kinds of success. Personal success for me has been achieved by marrying Barbara and raising two wonderful children. Success in business is sometimes measured by who has more money at the end We’re ratcheting up the intensity and of the day. While we always want to be profit- able and we compete every day to achieve that expanding our international businesses goal, I believe we also are successful due to the way we work, how we deal with our em- with each of [our existing] brands.” ployees, our clients [and] our collaborators. That is measured by what others think about — Danny Schwartz you and your organization, [so] you’ll have to ask the industry if they think we are success- ful. We still have many goals that we would

like to accomplish. & BENJAMIN OF SCHWARTZ COURTESY PHOTO:

20 | | MAY 27, 2013 Congratulations to Schwartz & Benjamin in honor of your 90th Anniversary.

WE CAN’T WAIT TO SEE WHAT’S NEXT, AMAZON FASHION AND SHOPBOP. 22 22 SCHWARTZ &BENJAMIN @ FN MILESTONEFN | more whimsical. Kate Spadecollection,butalittle dressier, trying toinfusemorecasualsintothe[overall] seems tobeworking.Inadditionthat,weare Kate SpadeandKeds haveacollaborationthat our brandsanopportunitytojumpinthere. adjunct.Itgives continue andwillbeagood casuals [with]somedressed-upversionswill rated? Whatwillbenext? Ithinkthatdesigner tobesatu-question, going isthatcategory ers inthemarketplace, soyouhavetoaskthe attacks thatcategory. Therearealot ofsneak- how eachofourbrands so [wearedeciding] don’t giveallyourfocustothereallyhot brand think isabouttoascendorbecomestronger. break ourown rulessometimes forabrandwe layer onthewholesale clients. But,asIsaid, we company-owned retail stores, andthenyoucan from thestart. You havethatinstant mixof ity ofhavinganinitialbusinesspretty much own stores, becausethenyouhavethepossibil- ready-to-wear company has30-plusoftheir One thingwewilllookat,forexample,isifa that aredoingwellnow inourstores.” tell you,“We havetroublefundingthelines need another lineofshoes. Oftentimesthey’ll they don’t getsoexcited becausetheydon’t you cameoutwithanewlicense,buttoday Ten or20yearsago, buyerswouldlineupwhen to expandby getting intohandbagsandshoes. companies thatmeet withsomesuccesslove number oflinestheyproduce.Ready-to-wear been intheshoebusinesshaveexpanded label for]shoes. Thecompaniesthathave practically every[retailer] has[anin-house walk down amajoravenueincityand thateverybodyisdoingshoes.is solarge You Jimmy Choo—isthattheprofileoffootwear Manolo Blahnik,Christian Louboutinand ofbrandslike andtheemergence & theCity” with theprofileoffootwear —reallysince“Sex break ourown rules. What’s happenedtoday, some criteriaweliketouse,butsometimes we when you addanewlabel? ing partners, butwhatattributes doyou look for DS: designer labels? What’s thehardest partofjuggling multiple DS: now thatyou’re emphasizing? Is there acertain category thatlooks strong right DS: [Because ofthat],weareveryparticular. Your growth strategy iscentered onyour exist- |MAY 27, 2013 One of [the challenges] ismakingsureyou Oneof[thechallenges] over Ithaschanged theyears. We have The market rightnow isreactingtocasuals,

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Q&A They alllikedthename.Butlisten, itwasa asking meaboutit:“How’s Daniblackdoing?” DS: of disbandingthatlabel? black line. Whathasbeenthemostdifficult part Fall will ’13 beyour firstseason without theDani- — Danny Schwartz attacks thatcategory.” so [wearedeciding]howeachofourbrands tocasuals, marketrightnowisreacting The Thehardest thingformeismy friends should and get tothe[right]volumelevel. should andget so youcanhelpeachoneattain thegrowth it have togiveequalattention toallyourbrands and not tothebrandthat’s struggling. You Danny Schwartz Barbara and it hasbecomemore[complex]. America tosellingourshoesallover theworld, from basicallywholesaling ourshoesinNorth rightnow.lenge Aswe’ve takenourbusiness uct. Theworldwideeconomy isalsoachal- it moreexpensiveforustobuyBrazilianprod- which haselevatedtheircurrency, soitmakes DS: in Are you feeling optimisticaboutthemarket

general? Iam.think2013year. willbeagood been strong forquitesometime, you haveaneconomy thathas the cost ofproductthere.InBrazil, labor problemsinChinaescalating is still over thedollar. You’ve got oninEuropetoday,going theeuro Even withalltheturmoilthatis more expensivethanitcouldbe. ish andyourItalianproducttobe in EuropethatcausesyourSpan- caused by price.You’ve aeuro got country, andmost ofthemare differentproblemsineverygot all oureggsinonebasket. You’ve countries. We don’t liketohave industry. We’re inseveraldifferent todayinour challenge biggest DS: at large? as well asthefootwear industry facing your company today, What are someofthebiggest issues Sourcingisprobablythe sion tomake. our timeto. Itwastherightdeci- brands thatweshouldbedevoting too muchofourtimeawayfrom expectations anditwastaking It wasnot performing uptoour realistic decisionwehadtomake.

PHOTO: COURTESY OF SCHWARTZ & BENJAMIN Congratulations Schwartz & Benjamin (No one can replace you but, for 90 years, people have wanted to fill your shoes!)

Schwartz & Benjamin’s first box circa 1923, reproduced by JCEdward Corporation.

Your partners at JCEdward Corporation, the footwear industry’s leading packaging supplier 24 24 PARTNERS FN MILESTONEFN SCHWARTZ &BENJAMIN @ | collaborative spirit collaborative spirit room. We love their us tovisittheirshow- make itapleasurefor friendly atmosphere Their gracioushospitalityand array ofdifferentdesigners. those openingpricesfroman us compellingfashionwithin Schwartz &Benjaminoffers is extremely important,and price pointsonourshoefloor ladies shoes. Havingabalanceof enjoyed many yearsofpartnershipandbusinessin “Schwartz &BenjaminandNeimanMarcushave VP &DMMofladiesshoes,NeimanMarcus JULEE BUTLER understands theneedsofbusiness.” toworkwithand team iswonderful based onastrongrelationship.The brands. Itisastrongpartnership go-to destinationforcontemporary asthe market in thecontemporary Avenue customer. have aniche They of brandsthatappealtotheSaksFifth &Benjaminoffersarange “Schwartz VP ofwomen’s shoes,Saks Fifth Avenue DAYNA ZIEGLER |MAY 27, 2013 makes the Schwartz &Benjamin roster sopowerful Some of the nation’s top retailers weigh in onwhat PRAISING PRAISING 90 ×

Sound Off BY

GERALD

an incredible job of surrounding themselves an incrediblejobofsurroundingthemselves ittakenget careof. Andthefamilyhasdone and up thephoneandcallDanny Schwartz business. Ifyouhave anissue,youcanpick is thatitstillafamily-ownedand-operated &Benjamin most uniquequalitiesofSchwartz produce totheway treatpeople.Oneofthe they they do,fromtheproduct they in everything comes tomind:integrity. isintegrity There David’s Shoesoverthelast25years,oneword for & Benjaminhasbeenanamazingpartner IthinkaboutthemajorreasonSchwartz “When President, David’s Shoes DAVID JASSEM FLORES exclusive opportunities.” alwaysopentoexploringnewideasand — they’re . the greatestlicensesaroundbecauseofthat.” hadsomeof honor andtruthtoit,they’ve thathasaringof & Benjamininourindustry years. There’s aboutsaying Schwartz something company todobusinesswithoverthepast40 They’re alovelyfamilyand[have been]alovely family, Ithinkofintegrity, honorandrespect. WhenIthinkoftheSchwartz Schwartz. Arthur with specialpeople.Itstarted very “They’re Co-owner, ShoeInn BILLY LAWSON relationship sospecial.” at market iswhatmakesour incredible dinnerwhileweare the sales, butenjoying an together. It’s certainlyabout is thatweenjoy spendingtime why wehaveastrong partnership ness partners. I’d say abigpartof to havethemasfriendsandbusi- many yearsandweareverylucky They havesupportedZapposfor and hasalwaystreateduslikefamily. “Schwartz &Benjaminisafamilybusiness Couture buyer, Zappos.com JENNIFER SIDARY carry several ofthefirm’s several carry brands,includingKate WeMost creategreatproduct. they important, to ourinputandtheneedsofcustomers. is afantasticpartner. [Itsteamis]responsive “As awholesalecompany, &Benjamin Schwartz EVP &GMMoftheshoedivision,Nordstrom SCOTT MEDEN relationship foralongtime.” stores inNewJersey, andwehopetocontinuethe season. Schwartz &Benjaminisarealasset toour shoes aresellingandhow theycan improve next very interested inourfeedbacktosee how the us survive,especiallyintoday’s climate.They’re and theyreallydoeverythingcantohelp “They arealwaysconcernedabouttheretailer President, Footnotes Inc. BRUCE HAUSMAN sales and support staff.”sales andsupport Footer Shapirototheirdesignersand andSteve with impressivepeopleovertheyears.From Eli Spade, DianevonFurstenberg and RebeccaMinkoff. Itis — andexcelsatauthenti- and has the unique ability and hastheuniqueability one ofthepremierfoot- wear licensing companies wear licensingcompanies cally infusingabrand’s aesthetic and DNA into andDNAaesthetic into a licensed footwear a licensedfootwear that.” wellto respond very line. Ourcustomers

PHOTOS: COURTESY OF RETAILERS

FN MILESTONE SCHWARTZ & BENJAMIN @ 90 × Business Strategy GLOBALFOOTPRINT  The firm’s future success hinges on carefully plotted growth in Europe and Asia. BY JACQUELYN LEWIS

chwartz & Benjamin has its sights that today’s increased competition can put support to each of our [existing] businesses so set on international expansion, and pressure on a company to snap up a hot brand they can each win.” its licensing approach reflects that without allowing adequate time to mull the In fact, Schwartz & Benjamin is not actively goal. pros and cons of the deal. looking for new licensors at the moment. S The firm is working to create a However, according to Shapiro, the keys to While Shapiro said the firm is always open streamlined stable of brands, join- successfully navigating those hurdles are re- to opportunities, he added that “right now, less ing forces with labels that already straint and deliberately paced expansion. is more. Our house is about right as far as the have a global presence — such as “We don’t rush,” he said. “If we lose an number of brands [under the Schwartz & Ben- Diane von Furstenberg or Kate Spade New opportunity [to grab a sought-after license] jamin umbrella, which includes four licenses York — and the emergent lines poised for because we don’t want to be rushed, that’s OK. and a production partnership with Rebecca global growth. We’d rather make sure we have the resources to Minkoff]. We are trying to maximize what we Schwartz & Benjamin President Steve Sha- [successfully execute] the brand and satisfy the are doing in each of our collections before we piro puts the firm’s newest license with Derek licensor. We’ve passed on opportunities because decide to expand further.” Lam — including the diffusion line 10 Crosby [the other party] wanted to move too fast.” After all, what ultimately makes these Derek Lam, set to hit retail this fall — in the Knowing when to drop labels that are no partnerships work is impeccable execution, latter category. longer a good fit for the firm also calls for according to the executives. “We think [that company] is going to get to ongoing evaluations. Schwartz & Benjamin re- “We need to give our licensors what they the next level,” Shapiro said. “Derek Lam and 10 Crosby don’t have a lot of [worldwide] retail [right now], but we see a terrific growth pat- tern there.” Derek Lam CEO Jan-Hendrik Schlottmann We don’t rush. If we lose noted that the label is looking forward to build- ing its footwear category through the partner- an opportunity [to grab a ship, which kicked off last summer. “When Derek and I started our business, we sought-after license] because decided we only wanted to work with people who are very talented, very smart and very nice,” Schlottmann said. “Danny and Barbara we don’t want to be rushed, Schwartz, as well as Steve Shapiro and their — Steve Shapiro great team, are exactly all that. ... We are happy that’s OK.” to be in what we hope will be a very long-term relationship with Schwartz & Benjamin.” Kate Spade New York, for which Schwartz & Benjamin has held the footwear license since cently closed its in-house brand Daniblack and need to accessorize [their other categories],” 2001, also is set to cover new ground. The label parted ways with licensor Juicy Couture in an Schwartz said, “but we also need a product that has long had a presence overseas, but in the effort to pare down and adapt to the changing fits their DNA and can sell [as a standalone next few seasons it will push the shoe division fashion landscape. product] in a department store. We get into the even further, adding wholesale in Europe and “[We rely on] market feedback and our own heads of our brands. We listen to their design increasing its footprint in Asia, with prelimi- research and knowledge of how the brand is directors and take on whatever themes they nary plans to roll out shop-in-shops in Japa- doing as an overall category or in our specific are doing for the upcoming season. Each has a nese department stores. category of footwear,” Shapiro said. strategy for the segment they want to attack, Diane von Furstenberg footwear also is ripe CEO Danny Schwartz noted that staying and we listen to that. We like the fact that for more international growth, with Europe open to change is a big part of the strategy. when the merchants come through our office, near the top of the list, according to Shapiro. “Flexible is a good word to describe our com- they see that each one of our brands has its But even when the brand choices are solid, pany,” he said. “We have to be careful about own distinct look.” the licensing process itself can be challenging. how many brands we have. We need to make “If you look at what we have today, they all Finding the right product mix and negotiating sure we are not spreading ourselves too thin, serve different purposes in the market,” Shap-

terms are complex endeavors, not to mention and that we are giving the proper amount of iro added. “Danny calls it ‘licensing 101.’” & BENJAMIN OF SCHWARTZ COURTESY PHOTO:

26 | | MAY 27, 2013 CONGRATULATIONS! In recognition of Schwartz & Benjamin Celebrating 90 Years in Business

It’s our privilege to serve such a legendary name and an honor to know the people behind it. FN MILESTONE SCHWARTZ & BENJAMIN @ 90 × Timeline SAVVY STEPS

For nine decades, Schwartz & Benjamin has led the industry with its licensing model and reaped the rewards. BY WAYNE NIEMI

1923 — Company is founded by Benjamin Schwartz and a 35-year manufacturing relationship on a handshake. product development studio on 57th Street in Benjamin Benjamin and the partners open a shoe facto- New York. ry in Brooklyn, N.Y., selling shoes under the Customcraft 1974 — Ben Schwartz passes away. — License agreement signed with Kate Spade label. Eventually, the factory moves to . — Massachusetts shoe factory closes, and the business New York. shifts to a predominantly licensing model as all manu- 1934 — Ben Schwartz creates and directs The Shoe facturing moves to Italy. 2002 — Arthur Schwartz retires. Club of New York, a charitable group for shoe people — Firm inks deal for license, beginning a in need. 33-year relationship. 2003 — Danny Schwartz is named chairman of FFANY. — Eli Footer retires. 1946 — Ben’s son, Arthur Schwartz, joins the company. 1975 — Danny Schwartz, at 22 years old, joins his father in the business. 2005 — Firm signs licensing deal 1951 — The Shoe Club merges with Two Ten Footwear with Juicy Couture. Foundation. Ben Schwartz is named regional chairman 1976 — Barbara Rienzo (Schwartz) joins the company — License for Kors by of New York. as a showroom model and receptionist. line begins.

1955 — Eli Footer joins the company as a salesman and 1978 — Porsche Design men’s and women’s driving 2006 — Phyllis Footer is in- eventually becomes co- shoes are introduced. ducted into the FN Hall of Fame. chairman in 1995. — Company launches the Daniblack 1982 — Givenchy license ends. label. 1958 — Construc- tion begins on factory in 1986 — Loran Wurdeman joins firm as controller, 2007 — Danny Schwartz succeeds Arthur as CEO. Lynn, Mass. based in Massachusetts. — Steve Shapiro is named president. — Barbara Schwartz is named director of product Early-1960s — The firm 1990 — Firm adds and begins marketing the Anne development. introduces ground- Klein II brand in addition to Anne Klein. — Firm signs Diane von Furstenberg worldwide foot- breaking Cloud 7 style. wear license. 1992 — Arthur Schwartz is inducted into — Licensing agreement with Anne Klein ends. 1962 — Company enters into design collaboration with Footwear News’ Hall of Fame. — Phyllis Footer retires. Charles Jourdan for Customcraft. — The A Line Anne Klein brand is added. 2009 — Company ends nine-year licensing partner- 1968 — Arthur Schwartz is named president. 1993 — Danny Schwartz ship with Michael Kors. becomes president. — Seven for All Mankind inks licensing deal. 1969 — Phyllis Footer joins — Loran Wurdeman is named CFO the firm on a part-time basis based in Massachusetts. 2011 — Danny Schwartz receives A.A. Bloom Award and is eventually made a VP of from Two Ten. product, where she works with Late-1990s — Company begins importing shoes from — Danny again becomes chairman of FFANY. such designers as Brazil. — Firm enters into a production agreement with and Andrea Pfister (at right). Rebecca Minkoff. — Company signs Yves Saint Lau- 1999 — Eli Footer is inducted into the FN Hall rent license for the U.S. and Canada, beginning a 31-year of Fame. 2012 — Global licensing deal begins collaboration. for the Derek Lam and 10 Crosby Derek 2000 — Steve Shapiro joins the firm as VP Lam lines. 1970 — Givenchy taps the and division head of all Anne Klein collections. — Company receives the Footwear company as a licensee, kick- — Licensing deal inked with Michael Kors. Company of the Year ing off a 12-year partnership. — Gucci purchases Yves Saint Laurent and Award at the American brings the YSL footwear business in-house. Image Awards. 1972 — Arthur Schwartz and Luigino Rossi establish PHOTOS: COURTESY OF SCHWARTZ & BENJAMIN OF SCHWARTZ COURTESY PHOTOS: 2001 — Company opens new sales showroom and 2013 — Firm celebrates 90th anniversary.

28 | | MAY 27, 2013 COVER WORTHY

Through the years, Schwartz & Benjamin’s history has played out in the pages of Footwear News. Here, the firm grabs some headlines.

Clockwise from top left: Looks from Anne Klein take the cover on Oct. 2, 1978; Yves Saint Laurent grabs headlines on June 14, 1982, with a spectator slingback pump for spring ’83; Anne Klein again receives attention on Nov. 18, 1984, with a pair of black pumps with mesh vamps; on Aug. 11, 1986, Anne Klein is back in the spotlight with Asian-inspired looks, including a black satin flat and black-and-white dotted silk wedge; a velvet pump from Yves Saint Laurent graces the cover on April 23, 1990; Yves Saint Laurent draws eyes on Oct. 14, 1996, with a woven espadrille wedge; with a slingback, peep-toe bootie, Juicy Couture locks in the cover on Jan. 12, 2009; Kate Spade is featured on the Feb. 11, 2013, issue with a red patent pump on a mid-heel.

MAY 27, 2013 | | 29 FN MILESTONE SCHWARTZ & BENJAMIN @ 90 × Q&A

shoe to walk in. [They] were beautiful [and] exciting. She [briefly] designed for Schwartz & Benjamin when we KING ARTHUR were doing a special line for Nei- man Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue called The American Collection. After decades in the industry, Arthur Schwartz still feels most A young At that time in the 1960s, low-heel at home inside a shoe factory. BY BARBARA SCHNEIDER-LEVY Arthur in shoes were awful looking. She single- 1937 handedly [turned the look] around. or Arthur Schwartz, nothing compares It was great fun. [Another] exciting to the art of making a pair of shoes. period was [our] association with After nearly 70 years at the com- Charles Jourdan. I went to France on pany his father founded, Schwartz’s a regular basis to work with Roland F favorite moments have been inside a Jourdan to develop our collections. factory, solving the unique problems that come with evolving designs and Among the ready-to-wear design- aesthetics. ers who collaborated with Schwartz “I love the challenge of manufacturing,” the While & Benjamin, who had the biggest Schwartz & Benjamin chairman said about his in the impact? early days in the business. Navy AS: We worked for a long time with in 1944 Today, Schwartz describes his role as that of Donna Karan and Louis Dell’Olio. pinch hitter, watching from the sidelines as his son Donna was passionate about shoes. If Danny Schwartz, CEO, and daughter-in-law Bar- Louis had put his mind to it, he could bara Schwartz, director of product development, have been a shoe designer. lead the company. And it’s a vantage point he en- joys, particularly because the game has changed. Which industry insider made the “It’s so fast-paced [now]. I couldn’t imagine be- greatest impression on you? ing involved [day-to-day],” he said. AS: Burt Tansky of Neiman Marcus However, according to Barbara, Arthur set the With was very influential. A number of pace when it came to attracting design talent. “My Eli Footer years ago, Danny and Barbara came father-in-law has always been forward-thinking,” in 1972 up with the idea of [doing] a collabo- she said. “He reached out to established, talented ration with Kate Spade. At the time, footwear designers to collaborate on our own Neiman Marcus owned a good stake in its [exist- brand, Customcraft, for many years. Some no- ing] business. Burt had confidence in us and asked table names are Arsho Baghsarian, Beth Levine, if we would take [it] over [in order] to rebuild it, Evelyn Lipare, Mabel Julianelli, Margaret Clark which we did. Jerrold, Roland Jourdan and Sylvia Baldi. We continued footwear design collabora- Q&A Arthur Schwartz What tops your list of memorable events? tions for Anne Klein and Anne Klein II AS: The 50th anniversary of Neiman Marcus. in the early years with Andrea Pfister, We were invited to come down [to Texas]. A few and then Manolo Blahnik, Patrick Cox, Franco decided to leave the company and go into business of us flew down on the plane with Coco Chanel. Fieramosca and Reed Evins. Additionally, Bernard for himself, my father made samples for him. They Being fêted by Neiman for their anniversary was Figueroa was employed to collaborate on the Mi- loved each other. great fun. chael Kors collection.” Despite the changing nature of the industry — What do you see as the company’s most innova- Schwartz & Benjamin pioneered so many looks. and the trend toward consolidation — Schwartz tive move in the industry? Which has had the largest fashion impact? said he is proud of his firm’s accomplishments and AS: We were the first to tap into the fashion intel- AS: [The development] of the first stretch pump that it has managed to remain privately owned and ligence of the world’s best ready-to-wear designers, called the Cloud 7. We made tons of them. We did family-run. getting them involved in the shoe business in a it on two heel heights. Outwardly, it looked like a “The best part of being a family business is you serious way. We started with Givenchy, Yves Saint nicely cut, plain pump. It had a quality of fit that call your own shots,” said the patriarch. Laurent, Anne Klein. The idea of collaborations couldn’t be challenged. Here, Schwartz recalls the best business advice with ready-to-wear houses started with us. his father gave him and favorite moments in fash- How has buying changed over the years? ion over a long and profitable career. Who have been the most influential shoe AS: Early on, [retailers] would buy the same shoe designers you’ve worked with? season after season, changing [only] the colors. What’s the most valuable lesson you learned from AS: Margaret Clark Jerrold, who was married to Every once in a while, they’d introduce a new style. your father Benjamin Schwartz? Jerry Miller of the I. Miller family. She was a rev- [In the 1960s], the business became more [about] AS: Treat people decently. [For example], when elation, designing from a sociological point of view. fashion. [Today], we have a much more fashionable

[my father’s former partner], Benjamin Benjamin, She was the first to make a low-heel, comfortable [consumer]. She’s younger and more sophisticated. & BENJAMIN OF SCHWARTZ COURTESY PHOTOS:

30 | | MAY 27, 2013 Congratulations to Schwartz and Benjamin 90 years of success and dedication to the footwear industry

“A membership in Two Ten is a rendevous with dignity” - Benjamin D. Schwartz First Two Ten Regional Chairman, 1951 FN MILESTONE SCHWARTZ & BENJAMIN @ 90 × The Team

ELI FOOTER Best part of your job: “The challenges in my par- Former title: Co-chairman (retired) ticular position and knowing that this company will Years at the company: 47 be there for you when you need it.” Biggest change at the firm: “I started as a salesman on the road, then I became sales manager and, ulti- ANNIE MARINO mately, Arthur Schwartz named me co-chairman of Current title: VP of sales, Derek Lam and 10 the company.” Crosby Derek Lam Fondest memory: “Schwartz & Benjamin encour- Years at the company: 8 aged territorial salesman to become very proac- Biggest change at the firm: “Seeing all the tive in the industry [associations and organiza- amazing designer and hip contemporary brands tions]. And they were very generous in donating to that we have made shoes for in both the past and Angela Forlini and FFANY Shoes on Sale. That was part of the culture Melissa Wilson present.” there.” Fondest memory: “Working with the wonder- Best part of your job: “Working with Arthur. ful owners ... and feeling like I’m a key part of the He had a vision of manufacturing shoes under company.” the names of clothing designers. The company’s Best part of your job: “Having the opportunity to growth was really due to Arthur. He saw an oppor- work with designers, owners and their teams, as tunity that nobody else saw.” well as working with high-end stores and their buy- ing teams.” ANGELA FORLINI FAMILY Current title: Line builder JENNIFER MASELLA Years at the company: 14 Current title: President, Diane von Furstenberg Biggest change at the firm: “The company growth, Footwear changing offices and moving into a much larger Years at the company: 5 location as we have taken on new, amazing brands.” Biggest change at the firm: “The growth of the Fondest memory: “I have grown up in Schwartz TIES e-commerce business and the balancing act done & Benjamin and learned so much from the best in between customers that have both online and the footwear business. Barbara Schwartz took me brick-and-mortar businesses.” under her wing and mentored me. It has been and The talented staff Fondest memory: “When I brought my 3-year-old continues to be a very rewarding experience.” of Schwartz & Benjamin son Jack to work for the day and Barbara Schwartz Best part of your job: “I love how family-oriented reveal what it means to went to shake his hand and he grabbed her by both the company is and who I work with. I seem to work in a family business. cheeks and kissed her on the lips. Both of their learn something new every day.” smiles are imprinted in my mind forever.” JENNIE BELL BY Best part of your job: “The everyday ins and outs NICOLE GINNETTI here at Schwartz & Benjamin are great. We are all Current title: International sales so hands-on that every day brings a new challenge.” Years at the company: 18 Biggest change at the firm: “Growth in all areas: KELLY MITCHELL brands, staff, manufacturing, etc. We had to relo- Current title: Order processing supervisor cate both our showroom and design studio in New Years at the company: 31 York, as well as our corporate office in Massachu- Biggest change at the firm: “The length of time it setts, to allow for the expansion.” takes for the orders to get to the factory from the Fondest memory: “That’s easy: Bob Schwartz, customer. When I started here, the seller would [Danny Schwartz’s late cousin and our former di- take the orders from the customer and mail it to the rector of international sales]. He took me under his office. They would then be keyed into the computer, wing and mentored me. He was tough and it wasn’t printed off, checked and then mailed to the factory. easy, but I was so lucky to have learned from him.” It could take up to two weeks from the customer Best part of your job: “Working with some won- to the factory. Now, it could be hours from the derful people who I consider family.” customer to the factory.” Fondest memory: “The Christmas parties.” BARBARA HANNIFY Best part of your job: “The atmosphere.” Current title: Credit analyst Years at the company: 30 MICHELE PRANDI Biggest change at the firm: “The newer Current title: VP of sales, Kate Spade Footwear technology that allows us to reference data Years at the company: 3 Clockwise from top: quicker and that is more time-efficient.” Michele Prandi, Sarah Biggest change at the firm: “Our ability to imple- Fondest memory: “I have always enjoyed the Smith and Annie Marino ment new technology to keep up with the growing

people I have worked with.” e-commerce channel.” EICHNER STEVE PHOTOS:

32 | | MAY 27, 2013 Fondest memory: “When I began working on the 90th anniversary party and learned about the rich and diverse history that Schwartz & Benjamin embodies. I had a unique opportunity to view the archives and see some of the original shoes Schwartz & Benjamin manufactured.” Best part of your job: “Coming to work each day in our beautiful show- room space and working with such creative and motivated individuals.”

ROBERT SABELLI Current title: Controller Years at the company: 29 Biggest change at the firm: “The transition of company leadership from Arthur to Danny. It’s extraordinary that the core family values and culture of the business have remained the same while the company structure and direction have changed considerably as the footwear industry has changed.” Fondest memory: “1984 — the first time I was sent to meet the New York team, which was my first time in New York and also my first time on an airplane, at age 24. Another fond memory was our 70th anniversary celebration.” Best part of your job: “I never get tired of it. Having the opportunity to contribute is energizing and having full access to all employees, includ- ing Arthur and Danny, is a special quality that preserves the family atmosphere, which is unique in today’s business environment.”

SARAH SMITH Current title: Sales manager Years at the company: 5 Biggest change at the firm: “The exciting growth of the Kate Spade New York division that I am currently working in. There is so much buzz and demand for the brand, and footwear plays an integral part of making Kate Spade the lifestyle brand it has become.” Fondest memory: “I’ve had the opportunity to work on three different brands (Juicy Couture, Seven for All Mankind and Kate Spade) dur- ing my time here at Schwartz & Benjamin and have learned so much through the process. Each brand has a different personality and cus- tomer who is drawn to the product, creating many fond memories and exposing me to so many different facets of the industry.” Best part of your job: “Working with all the different global stores and online accounts. It’s incredible to think that many of the stores we work Congratulations to with have been in business longer than Schwartz & Benjamin. There is such satisfaction in getting great product into the hands and onto the Schwartz & Benjamin feet of millions of customers around the world.” on 90 years of innovation and collaboration in the footwear industry. MELISSA WILSON Current title: Product development From Monica Richman and all of your friends Years at the company: 7 at Dentons. Biggest change at the firm: “Technology. I am now able to correspond face to face with our international partners by using Wifi and Skype. Meet Dentons. This is a great advantage when projects are time-sensitive and decisions need to be made quickly.” The new global law firm created by Fondest memory: “The opportunity to meet and work with amazing Salans, FMC and SNR Denton. people and brands. In a single day, we could have Derek Lam and Diane von Furstenberg in our offices. It is exciting to be a part of so many brands with well-known designers.” Know the way. Best part of your job: “The people I work with in the office on a daily basis. I am able to learn and grow by being exposed to all aspects of the footwear industry, from sales and merchandising to design. The family dentons.com atmosphere helps to create an enjoyable workplace.” © 2013 Dentons. Dentons is an international legal practice providing client services worldwide through its member firms and affiliates. PleaseKnow see dentons.com the way. for Legal Notices. 34 FN MILESTONEFN SCHWARTZ &BENJAMIN @ | sold thousands andthousands ofthose.Andit flat withalittle heelandataperedtoe.We ing forachicflat.Shereallyinvented thechic Danny. “Donnaisatallgalandshewaslook- “That wasdesignedwithDonnaKaran,” said introduced inthelate1970s ANNE KLEINCARAMIA a nicelooktoitoncewasonthefoot.” feet tofitequallywell[ineachshoe].Italsohad ferent thananother. Thistoplineallowed your to thefoot, and thatwasthekey. Onefoot isdif- The elasticized toplinereallymadeitfitsnug toe shapes, inany materialyoucouldthinkof. did onalldifferentheelheights, inalldifferent was thatitfitquitewell.Itapumpwe Danny Schwartz. “Thesignificanceofthatshoe “That wasanelasticized top-line pump,” said introduced intheearly 1960s CUSTOMCRAFT CLOUD 7 Une |MAY 27, 2013 STANDOUT that made the biggest difference over the company’s Danny and Barbara Schwartz reveal the five styles SELLERS

90 90-year history. ×

Top Styles was right.” signature item.Theyshowed theconsumerit grew, reallyembracedthisintheirstores asa “It’s timeless. TheKate Spadecompany, asthey treatment wegaveit,” said BarbaraSchwartz. looked greatineveryfabrication,heeland it stood foranidentity, becameaclassicand because“The Karolina wasagamechanger introduced in2005 KATE SPADE KAROLINA was astyle thatlasted severalyears.” “Everybody wasbuyingitfromus. It whipsnake [leather],” Danny said. “It waskindofaclassicmoccasinin introduced intheearly 1980s ANNE KLEINSNAKEMOC BY

WAYNE a fashionstatement.” wasn’t just tallgalswearingit.Shemadeitinto fashionable init.” awomancouldlookvery a substantialheel,yet fitting qualities.Itwasbroadinthetoeandhad 1972]. Itwasatwo-banded sandal.Ithadgreat sold15,000us aplaquewhenthey pairs[in at Neiman gave Marcus atthattime,andthey “It wasasandal.Itourbest-sellingshoe introduced intheearly 1970s CUSTOMCRAFT UNE

NIEMI — Danny Schwartz

Karolina Cloud 7 Caramia Snake Moc

PHOTOS: COURTESY OF SCHWARTZ & BENJAMIN JUNE 5–7 WEDNESDAY–FRIDAY New York Hilton Midtown & Member Showrooms

CONGRATULATIONS ON 90 YEARS!

Download FFANY’s iPad App to view the show directory 2013 SAVE THE DATES: Opening Night Industry Party Wednesday, June 5th: China Grill August 5–7, Monday–Wednesday December 4–6, Wednesday–Friday

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