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Home , Arthur Elgort, Chandra North, Claudia Schiffer, Diffusion line, Freja Beha Erichsen, Frida Gustavsson

II II SECTION WWDMILESTONESSECTION

■ STEFANO SASSI BUILDS FOR THE FUTURE

■ CHIURI & PICCIOLI: CARRYING THE DESIGN

■ VALENTINO AND GIAMMETTI, FIVE YEARS LATER Valentino at 50 A HALF-CENTURY OF GRACE AND GLAMOUR.

Spring 2013 ready-to-wear. PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE 2 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 15, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES 1994 The designer creates for “The Dream of Valentino,” an opera about silent-movie star Rudolph Valentino.

Fabulous 50 1995 More than 30 years after his first show The house’s storied history. Compiled by Fabiana Repaci at the Pitti Palace, Valentino returns to Florence and shows at the Stazione Leopolda. The city’s mayor awards him a 1932 fall couture collection at New York’s special prize for Art in Fashion. Valentino Clemente Ludovico Garavani is Metropolitan Museum of Art. Q The house licenses Warnaco for . born on May 11 in Voghera, in Northern Q Valentino shows in Tokyo for the first Italy, to Mauro Garavani, director of an time. 1996 electrical supply business, and Teresa de The designer receives the distinction of Biaggi. 1983 Cavaliere del Lavoro. Maria Grazia The Italian Olympic Committee selects Chiuri and 1959 Valentino to design for the 1984 1997 Pierpaolo Valentino’s first couture studio opens at 11 Summer Games in Los Angeles. Launch of Very Valentino fragrance; a Piccioli, 2012. Via Condotti in Rome. A second follows on men’s version follows in 1999. Via Sant’Andrea in 1965. 1985 Q Debut of the new line V Zone. Q In January, Valentino holds his last The fragrance Valentino di Valentino couture show at the Musée Rodin in , 1960 launches. 1998 and retires from fashion. The Mayor of The designer meets Giancarlo Giammetti, Q Italian president Sandro Pertini honors Italian firm Holding di Partecipazioni Paris, Bertrand Delano, honors him with who would become his partner. the designer as Grande’Ufficiale dell’Ordine Industriali buys Valentino for an estimated the Grande Médaille de Vermeil de la Ville al Merito. $300 million. de Paris. 1962 Q Valentino signs a global eyewear license Q Facchinetti shows her first ready-to-wear Valentino shows at the Pitti Palace in 1986 with Safilo. collection in February. Florence. The collection is an instant hit. The designer earns Q Matteo Marzotto, president and Italy’s highest honor: 2000 chairman of Valentino SpA, resigns and is 1964 Cavaliere di Gran Croce. Valentino marks 40 years succeeded by Stefano Sassi. The house presents the collection at the in fashion showing 40 red Q Valentino launches Valentino Timeless Waldorf-Astoria in New York. Jacqueline 1989 at Rome’s Piazza di in partnership with Timex Group. Kennedy becomes a client. Valentino Spagna. Q “Valentino: Themes and Variations,” a bows in Paris at the Q The Council of Fashion major retrospective, opens at the Musée 1967 Ecole des Beaux-Arts. Designers of America honors des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. Valentino is honored in Dallas with the Q A new line, Oliver the designer with its Lifetime Q “The Red Thread: The Inspiration Neiman Marcus Award for most original (named for the Achievement Award. and Passion of Valentino Garavani,” an designer. designer’s favorite pug), Q A new line, Valentino interactive exhibition, opens in New York shows for the first time Roma, takes the place of and . in . Miss V. Q “The Last Emperor,” a movie about The National Italian the life and work of Valentino Garavani Q Elizabeth American Foundation 2002 and Giancarlo Giammetti hits theaters Taylor and honors Valentino Italian giant Marzotto worldwide. Valentino, with its Lifetime Group acquires the Valentino In October, after two seasons, 1990. Q Achievement Award. fashion house from HdP for Facchinetti and Valentino part ways. Chiuri $210 million. and Piccioli are named creative directors. 1990 Q Valentino Gold fragrance launches. Valentino and Giammetti found AIDS- 2010 education organization L.I.F.E. (Lottare, 2003 The house licenses Puig for beauty, Informare, Formare, Educare: To Fight,To Accessories directors Maria Grazia Chiuri terminating its pact with P&G. Aristotle Onassis and Inform, To Form, To Educate”), with the and Pierpaolo Piccioli introduce the Q Dancers of the Vienna State Opera Ballet Caroline Kennedy flank support of . younger line Red Valentino. at Vienna’s annual New Year’s concert gala Jacqueline Kennedy in Q Marking his 30th year in fashion, the Q The house signs a beauty license with don costumes designed by Valentino. Valentino, 1968. Accademia Valentino center for the arts Procter & Gamble, terminating its Q “Valentino Retrospective: Past/Present/ opens in Rome. The first show is the “Art Unilever pact. Future,” chronicling his early works, of .” opens at the Gallery of Modern Art in 1968 The White Q The book 2005 Brisbane, Australia. The White Collection bows. Collection, “Valentino: P&G launches the V fragrance, followed by Q Jacqueline Kennedy 1968. Trent’Anni di Magia” the stronger V Absolu. 2011 chooses a Valentino- (“Valentino: Thirty Q Valentino Fashion Marchon wins the company’s global designed dress for her Years of Magic”) is Group — valued at eyewear license.

marriage to Aristotle published. close to $1 billion Q Valentina fragrance is launched. DELBO Onassis. — is listed on Italy’s Q A men’s store opens in Hong The house’s first Paris 1991 stock exchange. Kong.

Q ANDREA

boutique opens at 42 The fragrance Q The designer Q The Valentino Garavani Virtual BY Avenue Montaigne. Vendetta launches, garners the Superstar Museum, the first 3-D fashion followed by Award from Fashion virtual archive, launches at PICCIOLI 1969 Vendetta Pour Group International. valentino-garavani-archives.org. Valentino Men’s launches Homme. Q The Council of the AND and the company’s first Q The city of 2006 Museum at the Fashion Institute shop in Milan opens. Rome celebrates Three fragrances of Technology honors Valentino CHIURI the house’s 30th launch: V été, V Pour with an award for artistry.

1970 anniversary with Homme and Rock STREIBER; Valentino launches a ready- the exhibition ’n’ Rose. Valentino’s 2012 first fragrance ART to-wear collection. “Valentino: Thirty Q French president Jacques Chiuri and Piccioli present their first men’s BY Years of Magic,” Chirac honors Valentino with launched in wear show as special guests at Pitti Uomo 1978. 1971 held at the the distinction of Chevalier in Florence. TAYLOR A men’s shop opens in Capitole Museum; de la Légion d’Honneur. Q The revamped Via Montenapoleone Rome. the Accademia store in Milan, designed by David Valentino presents 2007 Chipperfield, opens. 1975 a retrospective of In June, London-based private equity firm Q In July, Valentino SpA is sold to Mayhoola MACHALABA;

Valentino ready-to-wear his work. Permira acquires Valentino Fashion Group for Investments SPC, an investment firm NICK makes its Paris debut. for an estimated $3.5 billion. controlled by the royal family of Qatar, for BY 1992 Q In July, celebrations for Valentino’s $858 million. 1976 “Valentino: Thirty 45th anniversary include a couture show Q Valentino Garavani designs 30 costumes Valentino opens a store in Years of Magic” in Rome and the exhibition “Valentino for the Ballet to be worn at a Tokyo. moves to New York. in Rome: 45 Years of Style” at the Ara special gala in September. More than 70,000 visitors attend the Pacis Museum, followed by a dinner at the Q In October, Valentino Garavani is 1978 exhibition within two weeks. Temple of Venus and an aerial ballet. honored by French Minister of Culture with Valentino launches its first namesake Q Valentino says he will retire in January. the distinction of Commandeur des Arts et BETTMANN/CORBIS; WHITE BY fragrance. 1993 Q Alessandra Facchinetti, former de Lettres. Valentino makes its debut in China at designer, is named creative director. “Valentino: Master of Couture,” Q PHOTO 1982 CHIC ’93, the country’s first government- celebrating the house founder’s life and Valentino, invited by sponsored fashion event, at Beijing’s ancient 2008 work, will run at Somerset House in

and The Costume Institute, shows his Temple of Heaven. Valentino is delisted. London from Nov. 29 to March 3. WEDDING ONASSIS

4 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 15, 2012

SECTION II TheWWD MILESTONES Glider Stefano Sassi has rebuilt the brand in terms of product, image and modernity and are focused on exporting a storied house and it globally, through the renovation of ex- overseen the smooth isting stores or new units. The new concept also has a layout transfer of ownership and that supports the expansion of the acces- The renovated design. By Luisa Zargani sories category, which now accounts for flagship on Via between 30 and 35 percent of sales. Montenapoleone STEFANO SASSI has high ambitions for Sassi underscored that, since the be- in Milan. the house of Valentino. ginning of the year, sales at the Milan As chief executive officer of flagship jumped 70 percent compared Valentino Fashion Group SpA, Sassi has with two years ago, before the renovation. is to strengthen and intensify our pres- concerned about the increasing number over the past six years steered the brand The New York flagship is currently ence around the world, either directly of foreign groups taking control of Italian back into the black, forged a successful being refurbished and is expected to or through franchises, taking control of companies, Sassi said people tend to for- team, streamlined the open at the end of March, and the Paris markets that are now handled by others get Permira is an English private equity company’s structure and operations, venue on Avenue Montaigne is also slat- or entering in partnerships with opera- fund, “so Valentino had already left Italy, helped restore the label’s global profile ed to be unveiled in early 2013. tors that manage our business. This is our as far as ownership goes.” In any case, he and, most recently, succeeded in the In July, the new concept made its goal, to increasingly control the Valentino underscored that “this is an Italian proj- transition from its previous owners, pri- debut at the Hong Kong Landmark store, store network.” ect, the style, the management, the sup- vate equity fund Permira, to new ones, and on Oct. 5, a boutique in São Paulo The brand is already present in the pliers, the know-how and the essence of Mayhoola for Investments. opened via a partnership with developer Middle East and is expected to further this brand are all Italian. These are fun- The executive remains his usual un- JHSF at the Cidade Jardim mall. develop the region, but Sassi was quick to damental values that create employment, derstated and reserved self, looking for- “Our goal is to have redone 70 percent point out that this is independent from the and they all remain Italian. ward to Valentino’s new chapter and rel- of our stores in three years,” said Sassi. fact that the new owners are from Qatar. “Of course, we all agree that we ishing the challenges ahead. As of the end of September, there “The Middle East is an important would like to see a more active role Sitting in his sleek office at Valentino’s were 129 Valentino stores and 89 Red market, one where Valentino is very well- of Italy at home, but we can’t dismiss headquarters, a large photo of a glider Valentino boutiques globally. Retail sales known,” said the executive, pointing to foreign capital [investors] that support stands out as a rare glimpse into Sassi’s were up 27 percent year-to-date. an agreement signed recently with the typical Italian companies and gener- personal life. Declining to take credit for Sassi said business has grown in all Dubai-based retailer Chalhoub Group. ate employment in Italy, emphasizing any bravery in flying with no engines, he geographic markets and that China is an The sale to Mayhoola, an invest- Italian know-how. Foreign investors laughs, and says helming a fashion com- obvious focus going forward. As per the ment vehicle backed by a private group are more than welcome. I believe the pany and facing this economy are infi- plan defined before the sale to Mayhoola, from Qatar that’s understood to be con- current government also views foreign nitely more daring. the company was looking to open be- trolled by the royal family of that Middle capital supporting Italian businesses “And now, onto the next phase. The tween 40 and 50 stores over the next Eastern nation, took place quickly, after in a positive way. If a foreign investor company has grown more than 60 percent three years with investments of between recurring speculation that the previous respects the past of a brand, maintain- over the past three years, with annual 30 million and 40 million euros, or $38.6 owners, Red & Black Lux Sarl, a com- ing its Italian essence, and is willing to gains of 20 percent. I believe Valentino is million and $51.6 million, yearly. pany indirectly controlled by Permira support its future, I think that for Italy, surely a brand that can set an ambitious “We may now even accelerate this Funds in partnership with the Marzotto it’s only good news.” target and aim to double revenues in five development,” he said. “Our intention family, was looking to cash out. Sassi said he likes that the new owners years,” said Sassi, who was previously ceo “It all happened very quickly, follow- are “important shareholders that have a of Marzotto SpA and started working at ing a heightened interest in the brand presence in many other businesses, often Valentino in 2006. from several potential buyers,” said Sassi. with dimensions surely bigger that ours, Sales in 2012 are expected to total (Sources in Milan say chief with well-defined industrial plans.” about 370 million euros, or $476 million Renzo Rosso and the Ermenegildo Zegna While Permira as a private equity at current exchange, compared with 322 group were also eyeing the label.) fund by nature had a medium-term vi- million euros ($414.2 million) last year. Sassi praised the Mayhoola investors: sion, Sassi said it helped grow Valentino, Earnings before interest, taxes, depre- ANDREA DELBO PHOTO BY “From our point of view, it’s surely very despite “particular conditions,” such as ciation and amortization in 2011 reached positive because we are dealing with a the exit of the founder and a “devastat- 22.1 million euros, ($28.4 million), com- buyer with a long-term vision, and one ing [economic] crisis.” Permira’s “un- pared with 7.5 million euros ($9.6 million) that has great ambitions for the brand.” derstanding and strategies were always in 2010 and a loss of 9 million euros ($11.6 The executive showed no concern medium-to-long-term and it’s paid back.” million)in 2009. Sassi said he expected about his own future within Valentino, He said the long-term strategy of the EBITDA to reach about 30 million euros, claiming a “calm, happy and serene” dis- new investors was a positive for a busi- or $38.6 million, in 2012. position throughout the transition. ness that is being revitalized and ex- “Our priority now is to bridge the gap “I believe, actually, that one of the panded. The start of the journey was the with our competitors, in terms of visibil- reasons the investors bought Valentino brand, “unbelievably clean and credible ity and quality of distribution globally, is that they found a situation that con- in terms of the dreams it refers to, the through our new retail and store vinced them, in terms of both creativity messages it sends. This is a fundamen- concept,” said Sassi. and management, one that has carved a tal starting point, and the credit goes to In February, Valentino unveiled its path for the future in a time considered those who created it.” latest store concept, based on a Roman quick enough. This is a value.” The company had lost ground to its palazzo, on Milan’s Via Montenapoleone, Sassi has always been a staunch sup- competitors, he said, because “more the first flagship to reflect the design porter of Chiuri and Piccioli’s evolution radical decisions” in terms of design, aesthetics of creative directors Maria of the Valentino product, as they opened organization and distribution needed to Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, the brand to a new category of consumers be made. “What we and I take credit for, who worked with architect David and developed the accessories, just a little, is that we stayed on track, be- Chipperfield. Sassi and the designers be- Stefano Sassi and divisions. cause such a change cannot be done in lieve the store mirrors the new course of in his office. Asked to respond to media reports one or two years.”

Valentino SpA and the M Missoni li- took control of Harrods for a reported mental.” Sassi remains at the helm censed business. The MCS Marlboro $2.22 billion in 2010; it has a 1.03 per- of the company, along with creative The New Owners Classics is being carved out from VFG cent stake in LVMH Moët directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and IN JULY, Mayhoola for Investments, an and will remain under the ownership of and a 5.2 percent share Pierpaolo Piccioli. investment vehicle backed by a private Red & Black, which will also continue in Tiffany & Co. It also bought 26 At the time of the acquisition, investor group from Qatar, agreed to its majority ownership of . percent of British supermarket J. which will be finalized before yearend, acquire Valentino Fashion Group SpA. It is understood Mayhoola is con- Sainsbury in 2010. Last year, Qatar be- Mayhoola issued a statement saying it Terms of the deal were not disclosed, trolled by Qatar’s royal family. The came the largest shareholder in French was “impressed” by the work of Chiuri, but Milan-based sources peg the price new owners are keeping a low profile media group Lagardère SCA, with a Piccioli and Sassi. tag at around 700 million euros, or $907 and declined to be interviewed for 12.8 percent stake. “Their ability to blend the aes- million at current exchange. this article. Valentino chief executive officer thetic values of the founder, Valentino The agreement was signed between Various investment vehicles from Stefano Sassi said this is just a first Garavani, with a contemporary and so- Mayhoola and Red & Black Lux Sarl, the Arab state have been on a luxury step. “There could be more ahead and phisticated vision, has been instrumen- a company indirectly controlled by and retail spending spree in the past surely they are entering the luxury tal in enhancing the brand’s relevance Permira Funds in partnership with the few years. Qatar Holding LLC, which world from the front door, taking con- and establishing a platform with sig- Marzotto family. was established in 2006 and invests trol of a brand with such fame. They, nificant potential. Our vision is to back Through the acquisition of VFG, on behalf of the State of Qatar as it is and we, will work together for this management for the long term.” Mayhoola acquires 100 percent of linked to the Gulf nation’s royal family, brand to be successful. This is funda- — L.Z. Etoile Group, the indisputable leader of luxury fashion in the Middle East would like to congratulate Valentino on shaping contemporary elegance for 50 years.

As the chosen partner in the region for more than 15 years, Etoile Group feels proud to be part of their success story.

50 years

www.etoilegroup.com 6 WWD monday, october 15 , 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES Carrying the Torch The design team brings the heritage of the house forward with a modern spirit. By Luisa Zargani

DESPITE THEIR strong connection a principal. It’s the same as in fashion,

with the city of Rome, it was only fitting which needs a consignor.” elbo d

that WWD’s interview with Valentino’s Chiuri and Piccioli know about A creative directors took place during working for a commissioner. After 10

the Venice Film Festival and the city’s years at , where the pair met Andre Architecture Biennale exhibition. and were credited with the invention While more press shy and re- of the Baguette bag, Garavani person- served than house founder Valentino ally wooed them to develop accessories photo by Garavani, Maria Grazia Chiuri and based on his briefings for each sea- Pierpaolo Piccioli continue to dress son. They were named creative direc- Hollywood A-listers — many of whom tors of accessories when Alessandra walk the red carpet at the Venice Facchinetti was assigned the same title Lido — and count the Architecture for ready-to-wear after Garavani re- Biennale’s president, David tired in 2008, and then succeeded her Chipperfield, among their friends. in rtw in October that year. Their conversation is peppered with The company is now in transition references to Chipperfield, who de- again, under a new owner — Qatar-based signed their new — and first — store Mayhoola for Investments — but they ap- concept. In particular, they often cite pear unfazed and forward-looking. the title the architect chose for the “We are used to changes and they stim- Biennale: “Common Ground.” ulate us,” said Chiuri. “We put ourselves “Different worlds are our inspi- on the line, and this is a very positive evo- ration, not only fashion, but art and lution. There is no stress. We are pleased cinema, the spirit of the times,” said that the company was sold because of the Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Chiuri, looking comfortable and at work that had been done. One of the goals Grazia Chiuri in the gardens of , relaxing poolside at the Hotel [of former owner Permira] was to revamp the Hotel Cipriani during the Cipriani. “Common ground makes the brand so that it would be appealing Venice Film Festival. us think about the foundations of the [to a new buyer].” Made in Italy [movement].” “The goal now is to grow the com- “Our collections have a cinemato- pany with a precise vision and busi- overturning or uprooting it, drawing in to that,” he said. graphic aspect, a vision of a tale, and ness model, with an eye on the market. new customers with feminine and ro- Piccioli noted, “It’s about memory, in Venice, we see the meeting of sev- Valentino, as an Italian brand, can be mantic, yet also contemporary, designs. not nostalgia, so it’s already selec- eral different arts. We ourselves don’t like in ,” added Piccioli. Keeping elements of the past while tive — and a foundation for the future, work on a single project, but on an in- The designing duo — whose unity of maintaining and integrating them with a source of inspiration. Everyone is tegration of different elements,” added intent, friendship and ease with each more personal ones is also common aware of the past and chooses one par- Piccioli. “We are well disposed toward other is palpable — has been credited ground with Chipperfield, according ticular memory.” this role of an architect at the service of with rejuvenating the brand without to Chiuri. Chiuri and Piccioli are family Chipperfield said that when he start- friends as well as colleagues. Each is ed talking with the designers about married — Piccioli has three children Franco Rubartelli’s 1967 shot the store project three years ago, they and Chiuri has two. of Verushka inspired the 50th “took heritage into account but were The designers have elected to high- anniversary capsule collection. thinking forward.” light Valentino’s couture, which, they “It’s difficult to do something new claim was “not so visible” in its influ- in retail. Everything has been tried,” ence on the ready-to-wear and other the architect said. “We wanted to make categories in the past. a house, escape the feeling of a show- They describe couture as “mul- room, design a palazzo in the spirit tifaceted,” expressing knowledge, of Valentino and bring architecture quality, execution, and service, and forward. We wanted to give a sense of extend its superior elements to other permanence, which is counterintuitive product categories, and even to the and different because it responds more store, meaning “care, and intimacy to architectural solidity rather than and personalization of timeless luxu- the ease of construction and notion of r y,” said Piccioli. change” usually associated with fash- “Couture is synonymous with unique- ion and retail. ness,” he said. “Those who know the Chipperfield added he was inspired product well appreciate it the most.” by Italy’s “great design period” from Chiuri said they were like “pioneers” the Fifties and Sixties, and architects when they started talking about couture, such as Gio Ponti and Franco Albini. while “people would talk about a logo, “The use of carbon fiber is an homage {Continued on page 8}

Looks from the 50th anniversary group.

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WWD MILESTONES

We like multifaceted women.” Spring 2013 ready-to-wear. To mark the store opening and Valentino’s 50th anniversary this year, the designers created a capsule collection of , foulards and totes that resurrect historic prints from the house. “These are simply prints that we liked but that others don’t really know,” said Chiuri, adding that they were less inspired by specific archival frocks and more by the iconic images taken, for ex- ample, by Franco Rubartelli of Veruschka wearing a Sixties-era creation. “There was a certain subversive nonchalance for the times that seems effortless today,” said Piccioli. Piccioli said Garavani in the Sixties was “a great innovator,” and the women he dressed in those years, such as Jackie Kennedy — “more individual and three- dimensional” — are closer to him and Chiuri, rather than the “more bourgeois nnoni A i

g Valentino women” from the Eighties.

nni Chiuri and Piccioli have only words A of praise for Garavani, whose story they iov g clearly enjoy and appreciate, and who also has always supported them.

2012 by “I always admired his rigor and firm- ll

A ness,” said Chiuri. “He never had a doubt, and that is his strength.” Piccioli pointed to Garavani’s “ability to dream and make others dream, what- ne feugere; f

A ever happens. He’s remained untouch- able and unfazed through any phase.” steph Piccioli underscored that neither he nor Chiuri “ever wanted to superimpose [their] face onto his.” Their ambition was to tell their stories, he said. Fall 2012 “Designs are simply born from the couture. instinct of individuals. Our biggest suc- spring 2013 photo by cesses were not expected. If there were a cocktail or a formula, everyone could {Continued from page 6} to the Roman quality of the brand: “The women that don’t represent one single be successful.” which is a synthesis and does not have Roman historical atelier makes it unique; beauty model, but one that is multifac- Chiuri said they would like for “each those cultural layers, the workmanship cinema, history, beauty and art — again, eted and more personal, no longer one single piece to be more visible and iconic, and the intrinsic quality [of couture]. common ground,” said Piccioli. single aesthetic look.” evocative of a reference world. The same For the past 10 years, fashion seemed However, as part of the rejuvenation The designer pointed to actresses as with Tiffany’s signature blue shopping contained in a logo. A logo can be luxu- process, “it was important to understand and Kasia Smutniak, who bag or the [Apple] icon on the desktop. r y, but luxury has been abused as a term that women have changed. The brand hosted the Venice Film Festival and wore We would like to maintain the connection for the past 10 years. It’s a relative con- referred to a classic and validated beau- Valentino on several occasions in the city. [Garavani] had and increase it. Valentino cept. Couture is more than luxury.” ty, according to an aesthetic scheme,” “They are so different, but have strong evokes a dream, and fashion must be a The designers also frequently refer Chiuri explained. “We started talking to personalities, and they are independent. dream. That’s its motor.”

The Red Valentino pop-up The Dreamy Side greenhouse in Milan.

IN 2003, WHEN Maria Grazia Chiuri The lion’s share of international and Pierpaolo Piccioli, then acces- sales comes from Europe, but the line sories directors, launched a younger is well distributed worldwide. In 2011, diffusion line, they paid tribute to the the company opened a 2,475-square- house’s signature color and called the foot flagship in Tokyo’s trendy Aoyama collection Red Valentino. neighborhood. A boutique is located on Despite the red theme obviously the ground floor, while the second level connecting the lower-priced line with holds a showroom and event space the designer range — they are both that’s connected to a rooftop terrace. well anchored in an idea of elegant, so- Red Valentino also counts flagships phisticated femininity — Red Valentino in Cannes, France, and in Rome, and is features a specific and defined individ- available at department stores includ- ual identity. ing Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Chiuri and Piccioli imbue the Red Harrods, Isetan and La Rinascente. The Valentino collections with a dreamy company is also set to open two more atmosphere, designing girly clothes Red Valentino freestanding stores, in embellished with frills, ruffles and ro- Milan and in São Paulo, . mantic patterns. “Red Valentino is performing well,” “Red reflects the most playful part of said Tiziana Cardini, fashion director the Valentino world,” Chiuri said. “It’s the at La Rinascente. “Maria Grazia and part linked to a fairy-inspired imaginary Pierpaolo succeeded in translating the [place]…mixing fantasy and reality.” image of the Valentino brand into a Previously licensed to Sinv SpA, young, contemporary line.” Valentino brought the line’s production In 2011, Valentino also promoted its a fairy-inspired, botanical scenario, the its fall 2011 ad campaign, shot in the in-house in 2009 to boost the expansion diffusion label, opening a series of pop-up label showcased and sold an exclusive dramatic setting of Copped Hall, a of the brand, which Valentino chief ex- stores in several cities, such as Florence fall collection designed just for the occa- Georgian mansion in Southern England. ecutive officer Stefano Sassi defined an and Taormina in Italy, Saint-Tropez in sion, comprising princesslike tulle , The London-based photographer, “important driver of profitability and France and Knokke in Belgium. During velvet and frocks embellished with who is currently on his third campaign growth over the years.” spring 2012 , the company flowers and butterflies. for the brand, injected a fantastical, Red Valentino, which is available in opened a temporary store in Milan’s At the same time, to give a spin dreamy mood into the pictures, which 89 point of sales worldwide, accounts 20 Piazza San Babila, which for six days to Red Valentino image, Chiuri and embody the its fresh, romantic spirit. percent of the company’s overall volume. hosted the Red Valentino greenhouse. In Piccioli tapped Tim Walker to shoot — AlessAndrA TurrA

w15b006(8)a;14.indd 8 10/12/12 5:38 PM 10122012174146 FIFTY YEARS OF FABULOUS.

WE CELEBRATE THE IMPERIAL HOUSE OF VALENTINO. 10 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 15, 2012 SECTION II

WWD MILESTONES The Glam Team

Style, elegance, chic — and more than a few frills — have been hallmarks of Valentino for a half-century.

Fall 2011 Fall couture Fall 2008 1988

Spring 2004

Spring 1967

Fall couture 2011

Fall couture 1995 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 15, 2012 11 WWD.COM

Spring Spring Spring couture couture 2013 2004 2009

Fall 2009 Fall couture 2004 SARDELLA, ARCHIVE WWD AND WEINBERGER ALEXANDRE DONATO MAITRE, DOMINIQUE GIANNONI, GIOVANNI DUMOULIN, FREDERIQUE BY PHOTOS

Fall couture Fall 1988 2010

Fall couture Spring 1989 2009 12 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 15, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES

Valentino the designer and Valentino The Stars Are Out the house have long been celebrity favorites. By Luisa Zargani

VALENTINO GARAVANI’S childhood sociated with a Valentino design. been associated with is exceptional very criticism gives me the validity of role as an chaperone might be ac- Julia Roberts accepted her Oscar — Elizabeth Taylor, Audrey Hepburn, being called a chic designer. I prefer countable for one the most enduring for “Erin Brockovich” in a dra- Anjelica Huston, , to remain in this domain.” love stories between a designer and matic vintage 1992 velvet-and-satin Nicole Kidman, Susan Sarandon, Hollywood’s fascination with the Hollywood and La Dolce Vita. in 2001. Four years later, Cate , Kate Hudson, Gwyneth Valentino brand has not waned as “When I was a kid, I had to chaper- Blanchett wore a yellow number ac- Paltrow, Naomi Watts, Sarah Jessica current creative directors Maria one my sister when she went out with cented with burgundy as she took Parker, and Kate Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli her fiancé,” the designer reflected in home the Academy Award for her Winslet, among others. continue to forge strong relation- the Nineties. “I used to go to the cin- supporting actress role as Katharine “I have learned so much about ships with Tinseltown. Cases in ema with them to see those beautiful Hepburn in “The Aviator.” Hollywood working with actresses,” point: Keira Knightley, Jessica Alba, stars, and this made me start to think Last month, Anne Hathaway mar- the designer has said. “They don’t Diane Kruger, Olivia Palermo, Elettra about design and fashion. Later on, of ried Adam Shulman in an ivory silk have a normal woman’s expectations Wiedemann, Jessica Chastain and course, I met these people, but they tulle off-the-shoulder style with a walking into a party. All they think Jennifer Garner have all been photo- were not as they were on the screen.” hand-painted shaded train embroi- about is a grand entrance.” graphed wearing Valentino. No matter. The designer has over dered with satin flowers designed by With his feminine , Garavani “We are the first to want to dream, the years continued to fuel this dream the couturier. surely succeeded in helping them and also the movies are a means to as countless A-listers posed for the From stately homes to artistic achieve this. In the Seventies, he dream,” said Chiuri. cameras wearing his creations. masterpieces, Valentino has always said: “I will continue to be Added Piccioli: “There is a connec-

In some cases, unique, special surrounded himself with beauty and criticized for making overly tion between fashion and the movies, OF VALENTINO IMAGES; ALL OTHERS COURTESY STEPHEN LOVEKIN/GETTY moments have become indelibly as- the list of beautiful actresses he’s glamorous fashion. This and women that make us dream.”

Gwyneth Jane Fonda, Paltrow, 1982. 2001. BY HATHAWAY STEVE GRANITZ/WIREIMAGE;

Diane Kruger, 2012. BENETT/GETTY IMAGES; ANISTON BY

Cate Blanchett, 2005. M. DAVE

Brooke Shields, 1992. BY DANES ANGELI; JACOVIDES-BORDE-MOREAU/AGENCE

Sarah Jessica Parker, 2012.

Lady Gaga, 2011. Jennifer Julia Aniston, Roberts 2009. wears vintage 1992 in TERRY SCHMITT/BETTMANN/CORBIS;BY CRUZ 2001.

Penélope Cruz, 2005. GEORGE PIMENTEL/GETTY IMAGES; FONDA BY DIMITRIOS KAMBOURIS/WIREIMAGE; KRUGER BY Anne Hathaway, 2010. Claire Danes, 2007. PHOTO BY PARKER Celebrating of wow! 50Years

During half a century of dressing

cultural icons, Valentino became one itself.

Today, this house that defined couture

fashion continues, with characteristic

verve, to “make women beautiful.” VCongratulations, Valentino! 14 WWD monday, october 15, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES The Founding Fathers

Keeping busy is not a problem for the house founders. By Marc Karimzadeh

DON’T MENTION the “R” word. “Branding a name is good,” “Definitely, we’re not re- he said, noting his products tired people,” said Giancarlo bearing the “V” became status Giammetti, sitting in his beau- symbols. “But design has to be tiful, art-filled penthouse with at the basis of branding.” striking views of Manhattan Both Valentino and and beyond. “We never Giammetti still keep a close thought we’d be retired and eye on the fashion house. go bird-watching in the park. “We very much support the We never said, ‘Oh, now we’re house of Valentino, not just going to smoke cigars and go because it carries his name on vacation.’ ” but we love what they [de- Four years after Giammetti signers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Valentino Garavani de- and Pierpaolo Piccioli] do,” parted from the house they Giammetti said. “We think founded half a century ago they are great designers. They after a chance encounter have been able to bring the at Rome’s Café de Paris in Valentino style up to today, in Rome in 1960, the duo’s vis- a very modern way but respect- ibility is as high as ever. They ful of the past of the house.” go to fashion parties; sit in the Giammetti is equally con- front row of shows, by friends fident about the house’s new like Diane von Furstenberg Qatari owners.

and , or, “I feel great,” he said. “I as was the case in Paris this think that the company was in month, take in the spring 2013 a very difficult situation with Valentino collection. They are the shareholders of the time. clearly not fashion wallflow- Permira didn’t understand ers, and have several high- the vision behind the fashion

profile projects in the works. house. Yo u cannot manage or In fact, almost immediately run a company without under- after leaving the house that standing the vision or having a

bears their name, the duo itzen Crawford vision yourself, and when you r

i

embarked on creating the M look at just the bottom line Valentino Garavani Virtual and you don’t have any per- Museum, which launched last Giancarlo’’ Giammetti sonal or private ambition, it’s December. It offers a digital and Valentino at the a disaster. This was the situa- archive of the designer’s life New York City Ballet tion. They were closing shops, and work, rendered in a way in September. and they were doing every-

so an online visit resembles a of Mi Photo Courtesy thing in a modest way. museum tour. The download- “I don’t consid- able desktop application, the year and six months. Every who cares? It’s not even on er what the Qatar first of its kind for a designer project we have now is a bit amazing china or a plate with people have done of this caliber, was an instant more relaxed, I would say.” a special design. It’s all just for Valentino, but hit, receiving more than 30,000 Still, the two seem perpetu- for the followers, and getting also for what they downloads in just the first ally in motion, more recently more followers than they al- do in Europe with two weeks. “It was great,” spending more time than ready have. I read something the hotels, the res- Valentino said. “To work with usual in New York, because of very interesting the other day: taurants,” he added. people so far from fashion was their association with the bal- Followers don’t mean you are “Everything they refreshing and relaxing.” let (Valentino keeps a home in special, because Hitler had do has some qual- Then, in mid-Sep- millions of followers and ity that can compete tember, the New York Jesus had just 12.” with a European City Ballet celebrated Ye t their star rose luxury conglomer- the designer with a gala, I am proud to have significantly after Matt ate. I think it’s in- and he created cos- Tyrnauer’s 2008 hit docu- teresting and that’s tumes for three works been myself my entire mentary “Valentino: The what I judge. I don’t of the ballet master in Last Emperor” — and not judge religion, I chief Peter Martins. career, never listening always in ways agreeable don’t judge ethnicity. It was not his only re- to Giammetti. They are investors cent foray into design Case in point: a re- who know luxury. — he also created the to all the input, cent night at the the- Plus, he added gown Anne Hathaway ater when Giammetti with a touch of non- wore when she walked suggestions, critics. was approached for a chalance, “Sheikha down the aisle to marry photo. “So I say, ‘Did Mozah is our cli- Adam Shulman in late —Valentino you see the movie?’ ” ent for a long time. September. he recalled. “And she Valentino personally Valentino and says, ‘What movie, Mr. did two weddings for hive Giammetti are also busy pre- New York). Lauren?’ Imagine if people C the family.” paring for “Valentino: Master While Valentino still designs come and say, ‘I love you in ar Meanwhile,

of Couture,” a major retro- for such special occasions, the movie’ — but that was wwd Valentino is quite spective opening at London’s Giammetti is embracing new very depressing. It was even Giammetti and Valentino in 1967. aware of the legacy Somerset House on Nov. 29. technology like Twitter, though more depressing another he wants his name to embody. “So no retirement,” he is somewhat reticent about time when someone said, myself my entire career, never “Precision, personality, cour- Giammetti said, though admit- it, and, perhaps deliberately, ‘Can I have a picture with listening to all the input, sug- age,” he declared. ting that life now is far less underplays the fabulousness of you?’ And I said of course, gestions, critics,” the designer And while many would ex- nerve-racking than it once the jet-set existence. and the wife comes over and reflected. “It’s not true that pect him to cite the red dress was. “Any project that he and “I don’t have a life that is said, ‘Thank you, Mr. Cavalli.’ you cannot just evolve and not a women should select could I have now is at a different so tweetable,” he said. “I don’t That was really insulting.” revolutionize all the time.” she choose just one Valentino pace. It’s not under the stress really tweet. I don’t know what As for Valentino, there’s The business of fashion may look, he proves that after all of ‘collection after collection to say. Sometimes I see what no mistaking him. He has al- have changed, but Valentino these years, he is still full of after collection,’ and not with my friends do. They’’ tweet, but ways remained true to him- insists he takes no issue with surprises. As he puts it, she a calendar where you know it is so shameful. They put a self, tan and all. how the industry is increas- should go for something totally exactly where you are in one plate on Instagram. I mean, “I am proud to have been ingly tuned in to branding. different: “A white lace .”

w15b014a;5.indd 14 10/12/12 3:42 PM 10122012154251 VALENTINO.COM NEIMAN MARCUS BERGDORFGOODMANSAKS FIFTHAVENUE 116 WWD monday, october 15, 2012

SECTION II

WWD milestones

Men’s wear gets a new, youthful spirit. Man Up By Alessandra Turra AS HE HAS frankly admitted, new, fresh image of the Valentino ers with rubber studs from the Valentino Garavani was never man — who is definitely younger spring 2013 range. hooked on men’s wear. and trendier. Piccioli said that at the base But that doesn’t mean he Chiuri and Piccioli put a of Valentino men’s collections ignored the men’s business, new spin on Italian sartorial there is “an iconographic and which he started in 1969. tradition with a combination of sartorial vision, which shapes Valentino, never sketched a voluminous and fitted shapes the contours of contemporary male outfit, but over the years and crisp fabrics featuring a masculinity without making developed the image of an el- high-tech finish. To underline them formulaic.” egant retro gentleman, who the youthful attitude, they also “Couture-inspired techniques sometimes indulged in an ultra- designed a range of men’s ac- and volumes are combined with glamorous lifestyle. cessories, which included hy- those from sportswear for a con- It’s no accident that the per-cool, studded leather iPad temporary, modular ,” designer chose actor Rupert clutches. Chiuri added, noting that aes- Everett to appear in his fall 1985 Last June’s show at thetics follow from technique, ad campaign, or that he decided Florence’s la Limonaia del cut and constructions. “The to put a black sequined dinner Giardino di Boboli confirmed goal is to reinvent men’s staples in the holiday window that the new course paved for the through the codes of an authen- Saks Fifth Avenue dedicated to Valentino man. tic and natural elegance.” him in 2006. “Our goal is to revisit men’s Even if the men’s division rep- When Maria Grazia Chiuri staples, to turn them into icons,” resents a relatively small portion and Pierpaolo Piccioli took Piccioli said during a preview a of Valentino’s overall business, it the reins of the men’s division few hours before the show. has been registering significant in 2009, succeeding Ferruccio “Maria Grazia and Pierpaolo growth. In the first half of 2011 Pozzoni, who designed only two refreshed the Valentino men’s (the most recent figures made collections for the house, they style while keeping its clas- available), sales rose 33 percent, started a revolution that cul- sic attitude,” said Tiziana representing about 6 percent of minated in a runway presenta- Cardini, fashion director at La the company’s total revenues. tion staged at Pitti Uomo last Rinascente. “Now the collec- In September 2011, January. It was the first time tions are more essential, modern Valentino also opened its first Valentino men’s was presented and cool.” men’s flagship in Asia. Located at Pitti, and the designers were Cases in point: an eye-catch- in The Landmark mall in Hong special guests of the fair. ing bomber jacket, crafted from Kong, the 2,166-square-foot Staged in the Baroque rooms panels of cotton, leather and space is exclusively dedicated of Florence’s Palazzo Corsini, nylon with khaki gabardine in- to men’s ready-to-wear and ac- that fall 2012 show revealed a serts, and camouflage sneak- cessories collections.

Spring 2013

Fall 2012

Fall 1997 iannoni g iovanni g by S photo 2012 tri; Fall S Mae e D Davi by S

Spring Fall Spring 1992 Spring 2013 2013 2012 Spring 2013 photo

w15b016a;6.indd 1 10/12/12 1:13 PM 10122012131409 V105S 18 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 15, 2012 SECTION II

WWD MILESTONES

Fall 2012 by Deborah Turbeville.

▲ Turbeville’s shoot for fall 1977.

OLIVIERO TOSCANI Best known as the envelope-pushing pho- tographer behind a series of politically sensitive Benetton campaigns, Toscani also worked for Valentino. A shot for the brand’s spring 1986 ready-to-wear collec- tion showed a playful young woman with cropped blonde hair jumping toward a young man with his lips puckered in a kiss, with the International Herald Tribune in one hand and his sweetheart’s in the other. Toscani also produced a tongue-in- cheek picture of the same young woman with a polka-dotted Valentino blow- ing up behind her, where a quintet of young men stood politely smiling.

HERB RITTS Ritts’ contributions to Valentino in the Sophisticated Ladies mid-Nineties featured a statuesque , occasionally sur- Campaigns that ooze chic. By Cynthia Martens rounded by a throng of naked male ad- mirers. The images’ clean lines in black- VALENTINO GARAVANI’S gregarious and-white — a hallmark of Ritts’ no nature and personal extravagance were frills style — put the emphasis squarely initially the brand’s greatest advertise- on the power of female beauty. ment. With a permanent tan evocative of yachting in the Mediterranean or ski SATOSHI SAIKUSA trips to Gstaad, the designer was often Japanese photographer Saikusa shot seen with his troupe of tail-wagging Laura Ponte and for pugs, or entertaining beautiful friends Valentino’s fall 1996 campaign, which at his Château de Wideville outside depicted sexually confident career Paris. His fondness for a particular women. Also in 1996, he shot a sultry shade of red, which he splashed across Astrid Muñoz — her hair piled high and cocktail dresses and evening gowns, was interwoven with metallic leaves — in a also well-known. sleek haute couture black dress with thin Since creative directors Maria Grazia straps and delicate floral embroidery. Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli took the reins at the house in 2008, they have carefully channeled the Italian mai- In the late Eighties, throughout the son’s original glamour into collections Nineties and onward, Meisel presented with a modern sophistication, and the a colorful, decadent vision of Valentino, corresponding ad campaigns mirror this with models like , evolution. Absent is the heavy makeup , and favored in previous years; theirs is an Gisele Bündchen in cinematic campaigns. understated beauty though still empha- In 2000, the photographer shot a pack sizing luxury. of models including Malgosia Bela and “We reject the concept that there is a poolside at Stahl House separation between the images and our overlooking the Los Angeles skyline. products: what is in the stores is in the ▲ Fall 1995 by . ▲ Oliviero Toscani’s spring 1986 campaign. ads,” Chiuri said. Decades after Marisa Berenson gazed doe-eyed at Vogue readers in a white dress with floral appliqués, Valentino remains a recognizable brand, thanks partly to the many celebrated photographers who have crafted its campaigns. Here’s a look at some of the names behind the lens.

GIAN PAOLO BARBIERI In the Sixties, Barbieri shot a series of photos of model Mirella Petteni in vo- luminous dresses, vibrant and sparkly against a startling des- ert studio backdrop. With her charcoal- smudged eyes and perfectly coiffed hair, Petteni was faithful to Valentino’s ideals. In a 1965 interview with WWD, Garavani said, “Women of today have a duty to be soignée. They should be well made up, absolutely wear lipstick — I detest women without lipstick — and be well coiffured, not running around with [hair] dangling straight as if they just finished a home shampoo.” ▲ David Sims for spring 2011. ▲ Fall 2000 by Steven Meisel. WWD.COM

Turbeville’s shoot for fall 1977. s satoshi saikusa for fall 1996 couture.

The women were draped in jewel-toned and Piccioli said they wanted to convey a gowns, their hair styled for Hollywood’s more delicate, individual beauty. golden era, while a bevy of bare-chested guys sprawled across lounge chairs bran- DeBoraH TurBeville dishing cocktails and cigars. In 1977, Turbeville shot a Valentino cam- paign in which a group of young women posed languidly by an old palazzo in long In 2005, Testino shot Gisele in a golden evening gowns. standing beside a baby Called back for the 2012 campaigns, the zebra in the company of a chiseled Will American photographer’s recent work for Chalker. The image was one of a series the brand offers the same dreamy atmo- that radiated sexiness and high living. sphere, with contemporary models includ- ing Caroline Brasch Nielsen, Fei Fei Sun, DaviD siMs Ruby Aldridge and . They Valentino’s fall 2010 campaign juxtaposed appear lost in thought, draped across the naked and clothed shots of models Freja tiled floor of Villa Parisi outside Rome; Beha Erichsen, Tati Cotliar and Monika standing by a shadowy wall in Pozos, “Jac” Jagaciak. Sims’ quiet, candid black- Mexico, or lounging at the baroque Palazzo and-white images marked a departure Valguarnera-Gangi in Palermo, Sicily. from the brand’s usually outspoken lux- Chiuri and Piccioli have praised ury. When he shot the fall rtw collection Turbeville’s photography for its romance the following season, Sims emphasized and “dark modern edge.” soft pastels and subdued lighting; Chiuri Said Piccioli: “We sell through emotions.”

Congratulations, Valentino on 50 years of impeccable style.

BAL HARBOUR SHOPS ® www.balharbourshops.com

w15b018(19)a;8.indd 19 10/12/12 1:22 PM 10122012132325 20 WWD monday, october 15, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD Milestones Valentino “Accessories are Garavani bag, sule collection, our passion and 2000. which includes calf, easily translate python, ponyskin into [key] pieces,” and patent leather V Is for Versatile Piccioli said. bags and fea- “They allow us to turing black ru- “ACCESSORIES ARE impor- bags with the gold- tell a story with thenium studs. tant, but we are not an acces- en V logo produced one object, so The duo’s sig- sories company, and the rule by Italian manu- that they become nature studded should be that you do what you facturer Coppola [signature], they decorations also know how to do at your best,” and Toppolo, was Valentino are small pieces embellished some Giancarlo Giammetti told the appointment of from that encompass of the frames WWD in 2007. Maria Grazia Chiuri and the current collection. dreams.” from the brand’s Five years later, it can be said Pierpaolo Piccioli as accesso- Immediately spring 2012 eye- that while Valentino remains ries designers in 1999. Formerly accessories recognizable wear, the first to primarily an apparel label, it That year, Holding di designers at Fendi, Chiuri are the ele- be produced by has also shown it can deliver Partecipazioni Industriali, and Piccioli offered a new ments of the Marchon, which successful, high-end accesso- which owned Valentino at the Valentino collection filled Rockstud range, inked a five-year ries, which, according to chief time, brought accessories pro- with colorful beading, deli- which was intro- agreement with executive officer Stefano Sassi, duction in-house, discontinu- cate embroideries, animal duced for spring Valentino in 2011. currently account for 30 to 35 ing the license with Gru.P.Italia. prints and sequins. 2011. It was a se- Last month, dur- percent of sales. The exception was eyewear, “We came to Valentino with ries of bags and ing the Venice Film The turning point in the which had been produced by a purpose: to create acces- shoes decorated Festival, Valentino evolution of the accessories Safilo since 1998 and yielded sories that are as interesting with studs. launched a special division, created in 1967 when the best-selling aviator style em- as the designer’s clothes, but “Rockstud has eyewear collection Valentino Garavani launched bellished with metal butterflies. that are not mere accessories made every woman a called Venice Limited to his clothes,” Chiuri said in rock star on her own fash- Edition. The range, con- Valentino Garavani Rockstud shoes, 2011. 1999. “They should have a sep- ion stage,” said Ken Downing, sisting of 300 pieces, fea- arate identity and make sense senior vice president and tures rounded, oversize gold on their own.” fashion director for Neiman metal and acetate frames Chiuri and Piccioli created Marcus. “All day and all night, embellished with Swarovski signature pieces and “It” bags, decorating her feet and held Elements and matched with such as the Shopping Couture in her hand, women are ob- fuchsia, apple green and pow- totes, launched in 2008, fea- sessed with the femininity of der pink lenses. turing 10 variations, including Rockstuds’ polished chic, hit Valentino also licensed a black leather style showing hard with an urban edge.” Timex Group in 2008 for numerous circular layers as- For fall 2012, Chiuri the production of watches, sembled to form a rose, or one and Piccioli revisited the which were formerly made by completely covered with pea- “Rockstud” theme, launch- Sector Group. cock feathers. ing Noir, an all-black -  —AlessAndrATurrA

Valentino for Men in 1997. A TV ad fea- Valentino customer.” and white, in a nod to the house’s turing South African model Georgina He reported sevenfold growth for fashion collections. The Liquid Link Grenville, who used the tag line “I’m the brand’s fragrance business over The Valentina campaign features WHEN VALENTINO revealed a fra- feeling very Valentino,” complemented four years. , a frequent pick grance licensing agreement with a print campaign shot by Steven Meisel. Rock ’n’ Rose Couture arrived in for Valentino’s fashion ads, as a young Barcelona-based Puig in 2010, the fash- In 2002, Valentino Gold hit the time for Valentino’s 45th anniversary aristocrat skipping her parents’ party at ion house was in transition. Creative market. Gabriele Pungerscheg, then that year. P&G remained the house’s a palazzo in favor of a night on the town directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and president of Unilever Cosmetics licensee when Valentino retired and with friends. Rome — the birthplace of Pierpaolo Piccioli had arrived less than International’s European designer Chiuri and Piccioli became creative di- the Valentino label, Chiuri and Piccioli two years prior, and they were develop- fragrances division, told WWD the fra- rectors in 2008. — was its inspiration. Also at the fore ing the brand’s identity for a new gen- grance was aimed at “women who are With Valentino rapidly evolving, how- was today’s trendsetting, young genera- eration of customers. It was essential to looking for a little luxury, who are buy- ever, ceo Stefano Sassi — who joined tion of jet-setters, such as Sofia Coppola match the fragrances with the fashion. ing into the Valentino world.” the company in 2006 — Chiuri and and Bianca Brandolini d’Adda. But Valentino’s first foray into the A year later, Valentino transferred its Piccioli felt it was time to find a new The Valentina line has recently been beauty business dates back to the late fragrance license to Procter & Gamble, partner. Industry sources also suggested extended with Valentina Assoluto, a Seventies — just after Yves Saint Laurent which promptly revealed plans to ex- that Valentino was a smaller company chypre scent that will hit U.S. counters launched its spicy Opium . pand and bring beauty sales from 10 to than P&G’s other licensees, and as such by April 2013. “I will always be criticized for 15 percent of the house’s total volume to it needed more one-on-one attention. “It’s more haute couture,” explained my extremely glamorous fashion,” 30 or 40 percent. Michele Norsa, chief In January 2010, Valentino agreed to Albesa. Valentino Garavani said in a 1978 WWD executive officer of the fashion company a long-term license with Puig that went The new fragrance’s advertise- interview. That year, he and Giancarlo at the time, spoke of the need to seduce into effect in February 2011. ment was shot in Rome, too, and shows Giammetti invited hundreds of guests a new generation of customers. “Although we’re talking about a Erichsen preparing for an evening out. — including Lauren Bacall, Hubert P&G’s first Valentino fragrance, V, large-scale product, we feel Puig is Today, Valentino has managed to at- de , , Serge was aimed at women who “want to have strongly committed toward the develop- tract the young consumers the company Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin — to it all,” said Markus Strobel, then- ment of the product, favoring intuition had been courting for years without los- the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées general manager of prestige and creativity over marketing,” Sassi ing the glamour its founder made famous. for a performance by Roland products and fine fragrances. To told WWD at the time. Puig executives would not divulge Petit’s ballet starring Mikhail keep the brand’s positioning high, From the outset, the idea was to numbers, but industry sources estimate Baryshnikov, and gave away about V was priced 15 percent above align Valentino’s scent business with its Valentino’s fragrance business will gen- 1,000 bottles of the brand’s other scents. fashion activity, explained José Manuel erate more than 100 million euros, or that first name- The Valentina In 2005 came V Absolu, a Albesa, chief brand officer at Puig. He $129.3 million at current exchange, in sake fragrance to fragrance more concentrated version of said it was important to work closely retail sales worldwide this year. the crowd. launched in V, and in 2006 V Pour Homme with Chiuri and Piccioli and “to extract Its main markets are the U.S., Italy, Over the next 2011. made its debut with a sexy ad the DNA” of the brand to project it in the Middle East, Spain, the Asia-Pacific four months, the campaign featuring Eric the world of fragrance. region and Russia, according to Albesa. eau de toilette hit stores Balfour shot by Steven Adjectives he used to describe Elsewhere in Europe, key countries in- throughout Europe and Klein. In 2007, Rock Valentino included “contemporary,” clude France, the U.K. and . reached New York in ’n’ Rose targeted “unconventional,” “feminine,” “elegant” “We are performing extremely well spring 1979. women discovering and “sophisticated.” in all of them and see a lot of potential,” Throughout the Valentino label Puig opted to discontinue he said. “This is just the first chapter of the Eighties and for the first time. Valentino’s older fragrances, and a long-term adventure.” Nineties, the “The last cou- September 2011 marked the arrival Next up for the Valentina franchise brand worked ple of years have of Valentina, the first Valentino scent is an offer slated for a 2013 launch. A with Unilever, signaled a lot developed under Chiuri and Piccioli’s men’s fragrance will also be explored. relaunching the of change and creative direction. Conceived by “It is interesting what Pierpaolo original scent in growth for the Firmenich’s Olivier Cresp and Alberto and Maria Grazia are injecting into the 1985 and introduc- brand,” Strobel Morillas, the eau de parfum contains men’s fashion arena,” said Albesa, “so ing others such said at the time. Calabrian bergamot, white Alba truf- for sure, our fragrances will follow their as Ver y Vendetta “We’ve rejuve- fles, jasmine and Amalfi orange blos- vision [for men] in the years to come.” and Vendetta Pour nated the portfolio som, among other ingredients, and  —CynThiAMArTens, Homme in 1993, and with Rock ’n’ Rose comes in a gently rounded bottle em-  MilAn,wiThConTribuTions Ver y Valentino and Ver y to try to reach a new bellished with roses in ivory, nude  froMJenniferweil,PAris

w15b020a;7.indd 20 10/12/12 6:20 PM 10122012182151 VALENTINO

Congratulations. Here’s to another 50 years of impeccable taste, incredible style and stunning fashion. 22 WWD monday, october 15, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES

Inspiration comes in many forms and from myriad sources.

FOR THEIR SPRING ready-to-wear col- Agnelli to the actresses of Cinecittà to lection, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo women on the street. His signature was Piccioli looked for design cues in the casting celebrities and civilians in the Eternal City — their own hometown and same glamorous light. headquarters of Valentino. The designers were struck by the no- In the “We take a lot of inspiration from tion of a woman’s identity and the concept Rome,” said Chiuri during a preview of of personal beauty. the collection this month. “In some ways, A recent Cindy Sherman show also our idea of it is not so beautiful. But for had some influence — not her strange im- us, the city and fashion are about dreams.” personations, but Sherman’s mastery of The pair also saw an exhibition of self-representation. A woman can choose work by Roman photographer Arturo whom she wants to be. Ghergo, known for his portraits in the Here, the mood boards that inspired Mood Forties, his subjects ranging from Marella the season. rroyo a ablo p Valentino/photo by of Courtesy The mood board for the spring ready-to-wear season.

w15b022a;6.indd 1 10/12/12 1:19 PM 10122012132039 South Coast plaza Celebrates

Congratulations on 50 years of legendary fashion, beauty and style. Visit Valentino along with 250 boutiques, 30 restaurants and the Segerstrom Center for the arts at South Coast plaza.

San Diego Fwy (405) at BriStol St., CoSta MeSa, Ca 800.782.8888 SouthCoaStplaza.CoM

Walter N. Marks Realty

CONGRATULATES VALENTINO on its 50th Anniversary

and Flagship Store on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills VOGUE celebrates valentino For 50 years oF glamour, drama, and showstopping Fashion. Happy anniversary

photographed by arthur elgort, VOGUE, october 2009.