VALENTINO and GIAMMETTI, FIVE YEARS LATER Valentino at 50 a HALF-CENTURY of GRACE and GLAMOUR
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II II SECTION WWDMILESTONESSECTION ■ STEFANO SASSI BUILDS FOR THE FUTURE ■ CHIURI & PICCIOLI: CARRYING THE DESIGN MANTLE ■ VALENTINO AND GIAMMETTI, FIVE YEARS LATER Valentino at 50 A HALF-CENTURY OF GRACE AND GLAMOUR. Spring 2013 ready-to-wear. PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE 2 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 15, 2012 SECTION II WWD.COM WWD MILESTONES 1994 The designer creates costumes for “The Dream of Valentino,” an opera about silent-movie star Rudolph Valentino. Fabulous 50 1995 More than 30 years after his first show The fashion house’s storied history. Compiled by Fabiana Repaci at the Pitti Palace, Valentino returns to Florence and shows at the Stazione Leopolda. The city’s mayor awards him a 1932 fall couture collection at New York’s special prize for Art in Fashion. Valentino Clemente Ludovico Garavani is Metropolitan Museum of Art. Q The house licenses Warnaco for lingerie. born on May 11 in Voghera, in Northern Q Valentino shows in Tokyo for the first Italy, to Mauro Garavani, director of an time. 1996 electrical supply business, and Teresa de The designer receives the distinction of Biaggi. 1983 Cavaliere del Lavoro. Maria Grazia The Italian Olympic Committee selects Chiuri and 1959 Valentino to design uniforms for the 1984 1997 Pierpaolo Valentino’s first couture studio opens at 11 Summer Games in Los Angeles. Launch of Very Valentino fragrance; a Piccioli, 2012. Via Condotti in Rome. A second follows on men’s version follows in 1999. Via Sant’Andrea in 1965. 1985 Q Debut of the new sportswear line V Zone. Q In January, Valentino holds his last The fragrance Valentino di Valentino couture show at the Musée Rodin in Paris, 1960 launches. 1998 and retires from fashion. The Mayor of The designer meets Giancarlo Giammetti, Q Italian president Sandro Pertini honors Italian firm Holding di Partecipazioni Paris, Bertrand Delano, honors him with who would become his partner. the designer as Grande’Ufficiale dell’Ordine Industriali buys Valentino for an estimated the Grande Médaille de Vermeil de la Ville al Merito. $300 million. de Paris. 1962 Q Valentino signs a global eyewear license Q Facchinetti shows her first ready-to-wear Valentino shows at the Pitti Palace in 1986 with Safilo. collection in February. Florence. The collection is an instant hit. The designer earns Q Matteo Marzotto, president and Italy’s highest honor: 2000 chairman of Valentino SpA, resigns and is 1964 Cavaliere di Gran Croce. Valentino marks 40 years succeeded by Stefano Sassi. The house presents the collection at the in fashion showing 40 red Q Valentino launches Valentino Timeless Waldorf-Astoria in New York. Jacqueline 1989 dresses at Rome’s Piazza di watches in partnership with Timex Group. Kennedy becomes a client. Valentino haute couture Spagna. Q “Valentino: Themes and Variations,” a bows in Paris at the Q The Council of Fashion major retrospective, opens at the Musée 1967 Ecole des Beaux-Arts. Designers of America honors des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. Valentino is honored in Dallas with the Q A new line, Oliver the designer with its Lifetime Q “The Red Thread: The Inspiration Neiman Marcus Award for most original (named for the Achievement Award. and Passion of Valentino Garavani,” an dress designer. designer’s favorite pug), Q A new line, Valentino interactive exhibition, opens in New York shows for the first time Roma, takes the place of and London. in Milan. Miss V. Q “The Last Emperor,” a movie about The National Italian the life and work of Valentino Garavani Q Elizabeth American Foundation 2002 and Giancarlo Giammetti hits theaters Taylor and honors Valentino Italian textile giant Marzotto worldwide. Valentino, with its Lifetime Group acquires the Valentino In October, after two seasons, 1990. Q Achievement Award. fashion house from HdP for Facchinetti and Valentino part ways. Chiuri $210 million. and Piccioli are named creative directors. 1990 Q Valentino Gold fragrance launches. Valentino and Giammetti found AIDS- 2010 education organization L.I.F.E. (Lottare, 2003 The house licenses Puig for beauty, Informare, Formare, Educare: To Fight,To Accessories directors Maria Grazia Chiuri terminating its pact with P&G. Aristotle Onassis and Inform, To Form, To Educate”), with the and Pierpaolo Piccioli introduce the Q Dancers of the Vienna State Opera Ballet Caroline Kennedy flank support of Elizabeth Taylor. younger line Red Valentino. at Vienna’s annual New Year’s concert gala Jacqueline Kennedy in Q Marking his 30th year in fashion, the Q The house signs a beauty license with don costumes designed by Valentino. Valentino, 1968. Accademia Valentino center for the arts Procter & Gamble, terminating its Q “Valentino Retrospective: Past/Present/ opens in Rome. The first show is the “Art Unilever pact. Future,” chronicling his early works, of Cartier.” opens at the Gallery of Modern Art in 1968 The White Q The book 2005 Brisbane, Australia. The White Collection bows. Collection, “Valentino: P&G launches the V fragrance, followed by Q Jacqueline Kennedy 1968. Trent’Anni di Magia” the stronger V Absolu. 2011 chooses a Valentino- (“Valentino: Thirty Q Valentino Fashion Marchon wins the company’s global designed dress for her Years of Magic”) is Group — valued at eyewear license. marriage to Aristotle published. close to $1 billion Q Valentina fragrance is launched. DELBO Onassis. — is listed on Italy’s Q A men’s store opens in Hong The house’s first Paris 1991 stock exchange. Kong. Q ANDREA boutique opens at 42 The fragrance Q The designer Q The Valentino Garavani Virtual BY Avenue Montaigne. Vendetta launches, garners the Superstar Museum, the first 3-D fashion followed by Award from Fashion virtual archive, launches at PICCIOLI 1969 Vendetta Pour Group International. valentino-garavani-archives.org. Valentino Men’s launches Homme. Q The Costume Council of the AND and the company’s first Q The city of 2006 Museum at the Fashion Institute shop in Milan opens. Rome celebrates Three fragrances of Technology honors Valentino CHIURI the house’s 30th launch: V été, V Pour with an award for artistry. 1970 anniversary with Homme and Rock STREIBER; Valentino launches a ready- the exhibition ’n’ Rose. Valentino’s 2012 first fragrance ART to-wear collection. “Valentino: Thirty Q French president Jacques Chiuri and Piccioli present their first men’s BY Years of Magic,” Chirac honors Valentino with launched in wear show as special guests at Pitti Uomo 1978. 1971 held at the the distinction of Chevalier in Florence. TAYLOR A men’s shop opens in Capitole Museum; de la Légion d’Honneur. Q The revamped Via Montenapoleone Rome. the Accademia store in Milan, designed by David Valentino presents 2007 Chipperfield, opens. 1975 a retrospective of In June, London-based private equity firm Q In July, Valentino SpA is sold to Mayhoola MACHALABA; Valentino ready-to-wear his work. Permira acquires Valentino Fashion Group for Investments SPC, an investment firm NICK makes its Paris debut. for an estimated $3.5 billion. controlled by the royal family of Qatar, for BY 1992 Q In July, celebrations for Valentino’s $858 million. 1976 “Valentino: Thirty 45th anniversary include a couture show Q Valentino Garavani designs 30 costumes WHITE Valentino opens a store in Years of Magic” in Rome and the exhibition “Valentino for the New York City Ballet to be worn at a Tokyo. moves to New York. in Rome: 45 Years of Style” at the Ara special gala in September. More than 70,000 visitors attend the Pacis Museum, followed by a dinner at the Q In October, Valentino Garavani is 1978 exhibition within two weeks. Temple of Venus and an aerial ballet. honored by French Minister of Culture with Valentino launches its first namesake Q Valentino says he will retire in January. the distinction of Commandeur des Arts et BETTMANN/CORBIS; BY fragrance. 1993 Q Alessandra Facchinetti, former Gucci de Lettres. Valentino makes its debut in China at designer, is named creative director. “Valentino: Master of Couture,” Q PHOTO 1982 CHIC ’93, the country’s first government- celebrating the house founder’s life and Valentino, invited by Diana Vreeland sponsored fashion event, at Beijing’s ancient 2008 work, will run at Somerset House in and The Costume Institute, shows his Temple of Heaven. Valentino is delisted. London from Nov. 29 to March 3. WEDDING ONASSIS 4 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 15, 2012 SECTION II TheWWD MILESTONES Glider Stefano Sassi has rebuilt the brand in terms of product, image and modernity and are focused on exporting a storied house and it globally, through the renovation of ex- overseen the smooth isting stores or new units. The new concept also has a layout transfer of ownership and that supports the expansion of the acces- The renovated design. By Luisa Zargani sories category, which now accounts for flagship on Via between 30 and 35 percent of sales. Montenapoleone STEFANO SASSI has high ambitions for Sassi underscored that, since the be- in Milan. the house of Valentino. ginning of the year, sales at the Milan As chief executive officer of flagship jumped 70 percent compared Valentino Fashion Group SpA, Sassi has with two years ago, before the renovation. is to strengthen and intensify our pres- concerned about the increasing number over the past six years steered the brand The New York flagship is currently ence around the world, either directly of foreign groups taking control of Italian back into the black, forged a successful being refurbished and is expected to or through franchises, taking control of companies, Sassi said people tend to for- fashion design team, streamlined the open at the end of March, and the Paris markets that are now handled by others get Permira is an English private equity company’s structure and operations, venue on Avenue Montaigne is also slat- or entering in partnerships with opera- fund, “so Valentino had already left Italy, helped restore the label’s global profile ed to be unveiled in early 2013.