embroidered Silk blouse, £7,700, Silk skirt, £1,550, and satin Shoes, £680, Giorgio Armani

Armanithe art of He’s one of fashion’s living legends: a designer, hotelier and restaurateur with a billion-pound business to his name. But who is the real Mr Armani? Ahead of his outstanding achievement award at the UK’s ‘fashion Oscars’ tomorrow, Jane McFarland is granted a rare audience at home with the fiercely private man the Milanese call King Giorgio – while his friend the model Eva Herzigova wears his latest Resort collection

Photographs Anton Corbijn Styling Margherita Moro

34 The Sunday Times Style The Sunday Times Style 35 This page Silk velvet Style Exclusive shirt, £860, matching jacket, £2,300, and trousers, £860, Giorgio Armani. Necklace, Eva’s own OPPOSITE woven cloak, poa, AND silk shantung trousers, £860, Giorgio Armani

It’s not wholly exaggerating to compare securing surfaces, from panthers to reptiles — perhaps unsurprising, an audience with Giorgio Armani (or Mr Armani as he is given his second home, an hour from Milan, has a zoo. known to his inner circle) to arranging a casual cuppa with Outside, there’s a parked Bentley, doormen and 24/7 the Queen. Or maybe the Duchess of Sussex. He rarely talks surveillance. Across the road are the Armani offices, and to journalists, even less so the British press, so when I’m nearby, his hotel, the Emporio Armani cafe and the Via finally granted a 15-minute conversation at home with the Manzoni concept store. Even the hangar at Milan Linate king of Italian fashion, solo owner of Giorgio Armani SpA, airport bears a giant Armani logo; make no mistake, Mr who Forbes estimates to have a personal fortune of £8.26bn, Armani wields the power in Milan. According to one Italian I’m excited to chat. Except, he doesn’t speak much English. editor I spoke to, a rare glimpse of the designer in the wild It’s more than a little odd to be at liberty in his sprawling provokes applause from locals. Despite only starting his Milan palazzo while he finishes breakfast, enjoying a tour label at the age of 40, he has more influence than any poli- with his translator, right-hand woman and all-round head tician or football star (incidentally, he also designed the honcho, Anoushka Borghesi. But any hopes of a glimpse national teams’ off-pitch uniforms) in Milan. A self-made into his fiercely private personal life are quickly quashed: man and a household name, “King Giorgio” is the local hero. first impressions are sparse but serene. Now 85, Mr Armani still epitomises the three Ts — trim, With few personal effects, it’s a lot like a luxury hotel — of tanned and toned. Despite a severe case of hepatitis which Mr Armani owns two. It smells utterly divine and the in 2009, he remains in good shape, with a permanent sofas are plumped to perfection. Housemen regularly sun-kissed glow (his eye-watering property portfolio appear from hidden corners. For a man who trades in includes houses in St Moritz, the Sicilian island of Pantell- understated, elegant clothing, he owns one hell of a flat- eria and Antigua — where he will spend Christmas — plus a screen television. There are animal figurines on some yacht) and a shock of white hair. He works out regularly and

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fastidiously follows a strict, chef-prepared diet, which he ‘I made ease and sophisticated likes to consume alone. Despite his somewhat diminutive stature, it’s clear Mr simplicity a powerful style tool, Armani, who slowly descends a staircase to join us, is the alpha male in the room. There are few designers who are as liberating men and women from entwined with their brands as he is, meaning he can run his many constrictions. That’s my independent business as he wishes. With no shareholders to answer to, earlier this year he added the title of general achievement. That’s where I want manager to his existing chairman and chief executive to stand in fashion history’ officer roles. It’s 9am and he is already issuing his instruc- tions with alarming intensity. His dedicated team, which grows in number by the minute, spring into action — dark floors, is devoid of personal photographs, bar one: an regardless of the request, it appears “no” isn’t a word often old picture of him, his two siblings, Sergio and Rosanna, heard at Armani HQ. and their mother, Maria. “She was stylish,” he sighs. “She He may have been talked into a shoot at home, but it’s had little money, but look how modern we are dressed.” clear he isn’t staying — he has a press conference to attend, Next is a Matisse drawing, given to him by Eric Clapton. then he will prepare for the brand’s first pre-fall show this “I love him. Moltissimo. He is the greatest. Because he is evening. He loves to work and insists it keeps him healthy. modern, but he is not annoying.” (One senses Mr Armani “My happy place, where I feel best, is my office. It’s where gets annoyed easily.) He takes me to his cinema room, I achieve my visions, where what’s in my head becomes complete with plush recliners, and an extensive library, real and tangible,” he says. “It’s the most incredible feeling. which is organised by theme. Decorative artefacts,­ picked It fills me with energy and adrenaline every single time.” up from his travels to the Far East, are ­scattered throughout. His office uniform is pristine white trainers, navy trousers Mr Armani certainly doesn’t do warm and fuzzy, but it and a navy cashmere jumper. Today he is wearing a does feel more personal through his eyes. He shares the fluid navy cashmere jacket in the style of deconstructed elegant space with his true loves — two cats, Angel and tailoring that first put him on the map, after designing Mari, and his talking blackbird, Merlino. There is also a Richard Gere’s wardrobe for American Gigolo in 1980. larger-than-life­ gorilla in his living room, a discarded model Dubbed the “master tailor” by The New York Times in the from the Cinecitta film studio in Rome. I ask about the TV. 1980s, Mr Armani has had an undeniable influence on “At the end of the day I take time for myself, just to think. fashion — he dressed men and women in soft, rounded I usually have a simple dinner at home, after which I like suiting, defining the new working wardrobe of the late 20th to relax in front of the television watching a good film or a century. If you wanted elegant yet relaxed suiting, you went TV series. I’ve watched all of them with the royals — I’m to Armani. “I made ease and sophisticated simplicity a obsessed. I’ve just finished Catherine the Great with Helen powerful style tool, liberating men and women from many Mirren.” Warming to the topic, we discuss the hit series The constrictions,” he says of his work. “That’s my achievement. Crown. “The Queen is an institution and everyone knows That’s where I want to stand in fashion history.” The same her, but you can’t get close to her. The series is the only way rings true today: the impeccably dressed Borghesi, who to have an imagination of how her life could be. People are previously worked for Saint Laurent, is a walking ambas- looking for a myth.” Did he dress Princess Diana over the sador for his tailoring. years? “Yes,” he nods discreetly. “She liked our jackets.” He dutifully shows me around, pointing out some of his Mr Armani’s female devotees are numerous — he became favourite things. The minimal space, with low lighting and the go-to designer for Kate Winslet, Julia Roberts, Cate Blanchett and more, harnessing the power of celebrity long before multimillion-pound ambassador contracts were the norm. “He was one of the first people to use actors in their campaigns, and I was lucky enough to be one of them,” recalls Kristin Scott Thomas, who first met the designer in 2003. “I have collected some pieces from various collec- tions and wear them 17 or 18 years later.” Winslet has a similar history. “I hate the idea of wearing a dress once, but Armani’s elegance doesn’t go out of style. My daughter has her eye on a few of my gowns, so she’ll wear them one day,” she tells Style. “Stepping out on the red carpet is exciting, but it’s still a bit daunting, even after all these years. I know if I am dressed in Armani, I’m ready for anything — his gorgeous gowns give me stealth power.” He also counts the Beckhams as fans: they starred in This page Silk crepe an Emporio Armani campaign more than a decade ago. satin shirt, £1,300, “His creative flair and eye for detail are legendary,” David trousers with braces, tells Style. “He is a great person and a good friend £1,750, and shoes, who deserves all the love and admiration he gets from his £680, Giorgio Armani industry, and anyone lucky enough to wear his clothes.” opposite mr Armani

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“I first met Giorgio in Paris during the 1960s,” says the have been recognised as somebody who changed fashion actress Sophia Loren. “It was the start of a great friendship, for a certain moment.” one that we still enjoy today. I was taken by his charm Mr Armani admits he fell into fashion almost by and pure elegance, and since then I have always known I accident, working as a window dresser, then a menswear am in good hands. He is a brilliant designer, a tireless buyer, after studying medicine. “I ended up in this world worker and, above all, he is my dear, dear friend, who I love because I wanted to dress real people and meet their needs, very much.” but I don’t come from this environment,” he says. Encour- Mr Armani first met the supermodel Eva Herzigova “a aged by his partner in life and work, Sergio Galeotti (who very long time ago, in St Tropez”, when he was struck by her died in 1985), he founded his brand in 1975. In 1981, he unique beauty. “She’s a beautiful woman, but it’s not launched the diffusion label Emporio Armani, followed by obvious,” he says. fragrances in 1984. (A bottle of Acqua di Gio is still sold “They would fly me over every season and I never did every minute.) In 2000, he brought the celebrity haunt the show,” Herzigova laughs. “They always wanted to use Nobu to Italy, with business partner Robert De Niro. From me, but I wasn’t the Armani girl at that time — I wasn’t haute couture to hospitality, the Armani empire now androgynous enough. It feels like I’ve known him for ever includes hotels, nightclubs, cosmetics and fine jewellery, because I have seen him so much over the years.” In 2016 but it’s fashion that remains his true love. Herzigova — who shot to fame in 1994, thanks to the “The main focus is still fashion. It’s stimulating and Wonderbra campaign — officially became an Armani face, every six months you have to do something new, so you cast alongside fellow 1990s supermodels Stella Tennant, have to create. It keeps you alive,” he says. “The fashion Nadja Auermann and Yasmin Le Bon for a campaign. system has changed so much, I inhabit a completely On set, Herzigova and Mr Armani reunite like old different environment compared to when I started. The friends. “It’s amazing to see how he has dominated the pace has become faster and faster, and as designers we are market for so long — in each sector, he makes beautiful forced to dish out products at an alarming rate, something things. The furniture! He is modern, in his way,” she says. I do not like that much. On my end, I never forget that we “Look at him now, he’s still so immaculate and elegant.” are here to dress people with something authentic, useful Tomorrow, Mr Armani will receive the Outstanding and beautiful.” Achievement award from the British Fashion Council at The Giorgio Armani Group currently employs 8,000 the Fashion Awards, celebrating his long-standing con­tri- people worldwide and has more than 12,000 points of bution to the industry. It’s the starriest night of the year for sale — the scale of his one-man brand is vast. The elephant British fashion, attracting Hollywood stars and even in the room remains the question of Mr Armani’s members of the royal family (the Duchess of Sussex successor: there have been mutterings of a legacy plan. presented an award last year). Previous recipients include With no children or named other half (his private life has Miuccia Prada and Karl Lagerfeld, neither of whom Mr never been up for discussion), Mr Armani’s closest family Armani counts as a close friend; a reclusive figure, he is his sister, Rosanna, and her son, Andrea Camerana, admits gatherings of this kind are outside his comfort zone. plus his two nieces, Roberta and Silvana, daughters of “I don’t go out in the evenings. When there are events like his late brother, Sergio. His closest friend is the sixty­ this, I’m a good actor, so I’m going to participate,” he says, something Pantaleo Dell’Orco, known as Leo, who has with more than a hint of irony, “but if I could, I wouldn’t do been a menswear collaborator and confidant for more it. I would like to stay at home with my drawings and with than 20 years. my seamstresses — that’s my life.” Several hours later I find Mr Armani backstage ahead of Over the years the brand has had an on/off relationship the catwalk show. Ever the perfectionist, he examines each with the British press. Critics — always in search of trends model and makes necessary tweaks. He never raises his — have said his collections are not modern enough. His voice, but his exacting eyes flicker cold when he sees some- refusal to use a stylist or invite outside expertise means thing he doesn’t like. Nearby, Dell’Orco is watching a he is often accused of repetition, so to be finally acknowl- basketball game on his laptop. Later, they sit together at edged by the UK feels particularly poignant. “It’s impor- dinner, where Mr Armani will nibble on a crispbread (even Embroidered velvet jacket, £2,650, silk tant, because British fashion is known for being quite he isn’t immune to the odd carbohydrate), before shaking chiffon trousers, different or particular. For me, it’s even more important to hands with well-wishers and excusing himself. The collec- £5,000, shoes, £680, tion is a masterclass in Armani signatures: elegant evening- and belt, £540, wear with a twist. An ode to the pantsuit, there are inky- Giorgio armanI Paris couture, black velvet trousers and cropped tuxedo jackets. An AW18. Right embellished capelet would look divine slung over Blan- Giorgio Armani Hair Davide Diodovich chett’s shoulders this awards season. Herzigova, fresh from in the 1970s at W-M Management our shoot, sits front row wearing a sequined blazer. Make-up Karin As Mr Armani takes his finale bow to a standing ovation, Borromeo at W-M he gives his first real smile of the day. His face, usually Management Nails Carlotta solemn and stern, betrays a softer side — this truly is his Saettone at W-M happy place. Fans on the front row queue for a photograph; Management he happily obliges. “Maybe it’s a bit presumptuous to say,” Model Eva Herzigova he shrugs, when asked if he considers himself the godfather

at D Management getty of Italian fashion, “but yes, maybe I am.” ▪ @armani

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