Give It Zip NEW YORK — His First H Hilfiger Collection Is Already Doing Well in Stores, and Tommy Hilfiger Has Gone with a More Dressed-Up Approach for Fall

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DONNA KARAN GETS SERIOUS ABOUT ACCESSORIES/6 A Donna Karan handbag. WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • February 23, 2004 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Give It Zip NEW YORK — His first H Hilfiger collection is already doing well in stores, and Tommy Hilfiger has gone with a more dressed-up approach for fall. Key to the collection are motorcycle looks with plenty of zipper details, but he also showed other sophisticated pieces, such as a taffeta party skirt and a chic trenchcoat. Here, a fall lineup. For more on H Hilfiger, see page 8.

Tom Ford’s Finale: Stores Brace for a Rush on Last Collection By Miles Socha Saint Laurent Rive Gauche Wednesday night in one of the most PARIS — “They’re gonna want to horde collections designed by Tom Ford, hotly anticipated runway shows of it. There’s just no doubt about it.” the first of which will be unveiled the year. That’s how retailer Jeffrey Most retailers agreed, saying the Kalinsky predicts customers will Giorgio Armani and Emaar Properties majority of luxury customers are Sign Letter of Intent. Page 2. react to the final Gucci and Yves See Retailers, Page 14 PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004 WWDMONDAY Armani Announces Hotel Partner Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear GENERAL By Luisa Zargani Giorgio Armani SpA and in real estate development and Emaar Properties P.J.S.C., an- resort management and their FASHION: The debut collection of H Hilfiger is blowing out of Federated stores MILAN — Giorgio Armani’s am- nounced on Sunday that compa- appreciation for the intrinsic 8 in the early going, and Tommy Hilfiger is already evolving his message. bitious plan to build a hotel em- ny executives had signed a let- value of the Armani name and Retailers are bracing for a rush on Tom Ford’s final collections for Gucci pire will come with a luxury- ter of intent to establish the aesthetic.” 1 and Yves Saint Laurent because of their collectible potential. sized bill at check out, as Armani luxury hotels and re- An Armani spokesman de- Armani announced on Sunday a sorts, confirming a WWD report scribed the deal as a “strategic Giorgio Armani and the Dubai-based Emaar Properties signed a letter of partnership with the Dubai- on Friday. collaboration, not a traditional 2 intent to open 14 hotel properties with a $1 billion bill. based Emaar Properties to in- Under the terms of the agree- licensing or joint venture EYE: A Cardin retrospective at Corso Como 10; Costuming “Madama vest more than $1 billion in de- ment, the two companies will agreement, and the actual fi- 4 Butterfly” in Los Angeles, plus some slithering parties. veloping 14 Armani-designed open 10 luxury hotels and four nancial structure has yet to be properties around the world. luxury vacation resorts over finalized, probably within the SECTION II: WWDMAGIC, Down Town, a special report, is included in this issue. Not only will the hotels and seven years in prime locations month of March.” resorts offer the opportunity to around the world, focusing on The exact nomenclature of SECTION III: WWDInnerwear Preview, Turning Pale, a look ahead at next week’s travel to Armani Casa-appoint- cities such as Dubai, Milan, the hotels has also yet to be fi- market, is included in this issue. ed rooms with Giorgio Armani- London, Paris, New York, Tokyo nalized, he said, although some Obituary ...... 17 attired staffs, but also, for true and Shanghai, while at least six early details of the deal have Classified Advertisements ...... 25-27 afficionados, a chance to live in of the hotels and two of the re- been hammered out. Armani-designed residential sorts are planned to be complet- Emaar Properties will be re- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is apartments as part of one of the ed and opened within five years. sponsible for real estate, con- [email protected], using the individual's name. first properties planned to open The companies expect that the struction and management of the WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 in Dubai in 2007. Presumably, total investment required to Armani hotels and resorts, while FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 187, NO. 37. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional there could even be mints on support the full program of the designer will manage all as- issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, March, April, September, October and December; and the pillows from Armani Dolce, openings will exceed $1 billion. pects of content, design and style, three additional issues in August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 the line of sweets the designer “We have been exploring the including architecture, interiors, West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice- launched last year. idea of bringing the Armani phi- furnishings and amenities — President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice- losophy of design and style to using items from the various President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice-President_General hotels for many years,” said Armani collections, as well as Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing Giorgio Armani, chairman and special items designed specifical- offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096- RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 1632, Station A, Windsor, ON N9A7C9. president of the Armani group, ly for hotel use. A management POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. in a statement. “We have been company for the new project will FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR approached by many legitimate be headquartered in Milan. DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new third parties with an interest in “The company being based in subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production such a possibility.” Milan will ensure that the correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, The designer, who first talked Armani group is fully committed please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully about the idea of opening a to the project with resources screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive hotel in 2000 — the same year and people and that it will bene- these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. he launched his home furnish- fit in terms of revenues,” said WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND ings line, Armani Casa — said the spokesman. TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART that he had selected Emaar One of the first hotels, slated WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED Properties because of “their ex- to open in 2007, will be in Emaar TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. pansive vision, their expertise Continued on page 20

MONDAY: WWDMagic, MAGICKIDS, The WWIN Show, THE edge and Fabric@MAGIC, Las Vegas (through Specify TAC on your Tech Packs Thursday). TUESDAY: Federated Department Stores Inc. reports & see the Savings! fourth-quarter earnings. WEDNESDAY: Cosmetic Toiletry & Fragrance Associa- tion annual meeting, Boca Raton, Fla. (through Saturday). Tiffany & Co. reports fourth-quarter earnings.

THURSDAY: American Apparel and Footwear Association annual meeting, Scottsdale, Ariz. (through Saturday). J.C. Penney Co. Inc., Gap Inc., American Eagle Outfitters Inc., Limited Brands Inc., Liz Claiborne Inc. and Kenneth Cole Productions Inc. report fourth-quarter earnings.

SATURDAY: Atelier, Pacific Designer Collections and Nouveau Collective Lifestyle Show, New York (through March 2).

COMING THISSUNDAY: WEEK Fashion Coterie, Sole Commerce, Intima America and Lingerie Americas, New York (through March 2). In Brief

● SIMON’S NEW BABY: Simon Property Group Inc. is set to ac- quire The Domain shopping center in Austin, Texas, with the site already set to house Neiman Marcus’ first full-line store in the Austin market. The real estate group said on Friday that it inked a deal to purchase The Domain in partnership with Endeavor Real Estate Group. It described the center as a “neighborhood meeting place offering an array of luxury and high-end fashion tenants, office space, restaurants, apartments and townhomes.” Neiman Marcus will occupy 80,000 square feet on two levels and could open as early as the fourth quarter of 2006.

● CROSS-CULTURAL: Pia Tonna, a longtime marketing executive who has worked for Harvey Nichols, Paul Smith and the Chanel Group, is turning her hand to accessories. This season, she is launching Piatonna, a line of day-to-evening bags in colors such as violet, bubblegum pink, grape and olive with Maltese cross details Production Locations: (Tonna’s family roots are on the Mediterranean island). Liberty has Bangladesh, Cambodia, Central America, China, already snapped up the collection, which features 11 styles ranging in price from $130 to $325 wholesale. “I wanted to create work bags Dubai, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Israel, Korea, Mexico, with glamour, bags that can go from day to evening,” said Tonna, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Turkey, Taiwan, Thailand, USA, Vietnam who recently opened a showroom at 35 Bruton Street in London.

4 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004 FEELING GROOVY Firestarters MILAN — When Carla Sozzani, owner of Milan’s boutique, Though Valentine’s Day had already passed, Ethan Hawke, Julie Corso Como 10, was a teenager, her father brought her to Bowen and Kristin Davis took to the dais at the New York Public Paris and introduced her to the surreal designs of Pierre Library for a Chanel-sponsored Young Lions event to read Cardin. She was immediately struck by the French design- eye® correspondence between some of history’s most famous lovers, er’s innovation and form. “At the time in Italy we were su- including Anaïs Nin and Henry Miller and Josephine and perbourgeois, wearing pearls and whatnot,” Sozzani re- Napoleon (whose letters brought out Hawke’s special Franco- calls, while sitting at the cafe adjacent to her store. German accent). Arie Kopelman read rhyming love-hate poetry, the “low-brow” “Cardin was so graphic, geometric and colorful. I was fasci- portion of the evening, as he called it, while Davis expressed her admiration nated then and still am today.” for the latest literary character she’s portraying on the small screen: the voice The impact was such that Sozzani has curated a com- of the children’s book heroine Miss Spider on Nickelodeon. “It’s the first time prehensive Cardin retrospective that opens Wednesday I’ve played an insect,” Davis admitted. night in her Milan exhibition space, Galleria Carla Sozzani. Speaking of creepy-crawlies, to celebrate the launch of their new line, adam “Pierre Cardin, The 60’s and 70’s” highlights Cardin’s in- + eve, at Saks Fifth Avenue, founders Adam Lippes and Electra Toub brought in ventiveness through his collarless jackets, origami-like a nest of snakes to accompany the underwear-clad models (eating apples, of minis and vinyl socks. course) in the window. But the store wouldn’t let the serpents anywhere near “He’s one of the very few designers that really changed the displays — or the guests — so, unbeknownst to Rena Sindi, Claudia Cohen, fashion,” Sozzani says. “His vision of women was complete- Moby and Jade Jagger, a crate full of snakes was hiding somewhere in the store. ly different — the silhouette, the hair, the watches, the The next evening, Sindi and Marjorie Raein ventured to Soho House for the clothes. It was a true turning point.” Grand Classics’ screening of “Memories of Underdevelopment,” hosted by Mexican-born Gael García Bernal, otherwise known as Natalie Portman’s boyfriend. “The film is a must,” said Bernal. “It’s about criticism and self- criticism. I started to see where I came from.” Uptown, Armani’s new world ambassador, Eugenia Silva, who is both a model and a law student, hosted three Marielle tables at the American Museum of Safra in Natural History’s Winter Dance, which Missoni at asked guests to come dressed as their the favorite element: Fire, Air, Earth or Eugenia Silva in Museum Water. “Which one am I?” teased Helen Giorgio Armani. of Natural Schifter, who successfully personified History. wind in her Chanel gown. While Silva’s duties will include various public appearances for the company, as well as photo shoots around

the world, she’s still not sure how it will SARDELLA DONATO COSTUME BY ANGELES OPERA; OF THE LOS PHOTO COURTESY affect her studies. “I carry my law books wherever I go,” Silva said. “They’re very heavy.” Despite the practical head on her shoulders, Silva still reacted anxiously when the gala’s program caught fire at her Pierre Cardin looks, circa 1967. table, which a friend put out with butter and water. “I guess it’s in keeping with the Get Sozzani talking about Cardin and she literally gig- theme of the evening,” cracked BJ Blum. gles with awe, though she’s quick to add that his marketing acumen was just as revolutionary. Before designers became brands in their own right, Cardin was stamping his name and imprint on everything from chocolates to cars. He was the first designer to sell in China and the first to open his own performance space. For the installation, Sozzani worked with Cardin, now 82, to select more than 60 looks, which range from colorful wool shift dresses with cutouts on the hip to slim pants with circular hems to tiered metal necklaces and plastic face shields. Electra Toub and Adam Lippes “What I find incredible is that if you look at fashion from the Fifties, it gives the effect of an older woman. But even today, Cardin and Courrèges still look young,” Sozzani says. “It’s without time and that’s really a rare thing because it’s not as though you can label it with a decade. It’s just Cardin.” In a telephone interview, Cardin called the exhibit an “important” vision of his work. “It just goes to show that what I was doing 35 years ago is still in fashion today,” he says, all modesty aside. “I was avant-garde and people are just realizing that now. What I did then works today. It was visionary.” But Cardin said he doesn’t want to rest on his laurels. He allocates time every day to designing clothes and put- Dayssi Olarte de ting the finishing touches on a line of “sleeveless” cre- Kanavos in J. Olivia Chantecaille ations for men. “I don’t think sleeves make much sense Rena Sindi Mendel at the inin VeraVera WangWang atat thethe today,” he explains. “I think they’re superfluous. You see, I’m still avant-garde.” Kristin Davis in Chanel with at the adam American Museum American Museum — Courtney Colavita and Robert Murphy Arie and Coco Kopelman. + eve party. of Natural History. of Natural History. OUNG LIONS BY STEVE EICHNER; ADAM + EVE BY JOHN CALABRESE; AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY BY LAUREN FLEISHMAN; PRODUCTION LAUREN HISTORY BY JOHN CALABRESE; AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL STEVE EICHNER; ADAM + EVE BY OUNG LIONS BY Y

LOS ANGELES — Who says opera has to be an ornate affair? Robert Wilson’s production of Puccini’s “Madama Butterfly,” which premieres this month at the Los Angeles Opera, is just the opposite, but no less of a costume drama. Butterfly Effects “Its always good to challenge an audience,” says artistic supervisor Robby Duiveman, in town from Amsterdam, where he runs the Netherlands Opera costume department, to oversee the creation of the 32 costumes. The production, which runs through March 14, is a study in silhouette and light, and the angular monochromatic costumes, designed by Frida Parmeggiani, resemble pieces of origami rather than the typical soft and colorful kimonos. “The costumes are more like sculptures,” says Duiveman, noting that Parmeggiani doesn’t even work with sketches, but prefers to create the costumes in 3-D. To hold their rigid shapes (there’s nary a rounded corner in the entire production, save character Kate Pinkerton’s Western-style petticoats) Duiveman used stiff, exotic fabrics like pineapple and banana leaf fiber and hona silk as well as sheer organza for layering and capturing light. Each costume is dyed its own subtle shade ranging from ivory to caramel. The insides of the seemingly columnar dresses are boned with flattening corsets to eliminate any signs of a bosom and make the fabrics stand out from the lines of the body. “The effect is as if these dresses are floating onstage. All you see is the line and shape of the gowns,” he says, noting that the performers wear only ballet slippers or simple A scene from Madama Butterfly, above, platform slippers to skim across the stage, feet unseen. “Inside, it’s not so easy to move, but and a costume from the production, at right. great costumes cannot always be comfortable.” — Marcy Medina

6 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004 A New Day for Donna Donna for Day A New WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004 7

By Marc Karimzadeh NEW YORK — With the LVMH accessories muscle behind her, Donna Karan is flexing her instincts on handbags, shoes, belts, scarves and jewelry. And that business could account for at least 45 percent of total net sales in five years, according to her executives. Karan, who is celebrating 20 years in business this year, is getting serious about a category she previously only dabbled in. Ironically, Karan has always been perceived by consumers as an accessories designer, and that’s mostly a result of her much-touted hosiery collection produced under license by Sara Lee Hosiery. There have always been a few bags, belts or pins in any Karan collection, but these were typically more for the runway than for retail, and were distributed very selectively. Now the designer has a newfound soft spot for supple, sensual leather handbags — and towering stilettos, wide crocodile belts, glass- blown disc necklaces, lightweight cashmere scarves and fur shrugs. In fact, within seconds of stepping into the accessories showroom at her company’s Seventh Avenue headquarters here, the designer couldn’t help but fall prey to their spell, trying on two or three handbags, pulling a shoe from the display or putting on a necklace she designed with Pilchuck, Wash.-based glassblower William Morris. “I get right with it,” Karan said, sporting a ruched handbag draped across her shoulder and a large traveler tote in her grasp. “This is how I’d like to get on a plane.” Since being bought by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton in December 2000, Donna Karan New York has restructured the ready-to-wear — and now it’s on to stage two: turning the spotlight on the hot accessories category. In her runway presentation for fall, the designer boosted the presence of accessories by showcasing several handbags, fur collars, jersey gloves, William Morris’ blown-glass dress fastenings and fur shrugs. Karan is not exactly new to accessories, but like many of her New York peers, she has never really been able to emulate the kind of splash some European fashion houses have made in the accessories category. Now she is joining the growing number of designers who are realizing the unexplored potential of accessories, among them Oscar de la Renta, whose in-house-produced shoes, handbags and belts are said to be one of his fastest-growing sectors, and Michael Kors, who last month signed Cipriani Accessories Inc. to develop certain categories of leather accessories like belts and small leather goods. It comes as little surprise that LVMH saw Karan’s potential for growth in the category and is now rushing to capitalize on it. After all, with Louis Vuitton, Fendi and Marc Jacobs in the group portfolio, LVMH executives know about the frenzy and bottom line that a must-have handbag or shoe can create. “When LVMH bought the company, we came up with a strategy that included accessories,” said Melissa Parker-Lilly, president of Donna Karan New York, who joined the company in 2002 and has since worked on reorganizing the structure of the brand. “We established the brand with rtw, then followed it with a strategy for accessories by hiring a design team, a product development team and a team in Italy to manage the production.” Jeffry M. Aronsson, chief executive officer, added: “Accessories are a major strategy for the company. This focus is not so much a renewed focus as it is a real focus. It’s not just doing accessories for the sake of accessories, it’s a product that makes sense. We now have a team in place to support Donna in the design and creation of accessories that are clearly iconic to Donna...the quality, and the feel of intimacy with leathers.” The accessories assortment is broad in nature and spans from handbags and jewelry to shoes, scarves and belts. “We looked at all the areas of accessories,” said Parker-Lilly. “When you set the strategy, it has to be comprehensive. We felt we have to make sure it’s not just about a bag, but it’s about the totality of the lifestyle and the integrity of the product. Every single item has to stand on its own, and that’s what we feel we achieved.” Karan is clearly her own best customer and her signature “woman-to- woman” philosophy is now becoming a key element in her accessories, too. “As long as I can wear it, I am fine,” she said of her new handbags. The accessories exude the same kind of femininity and sensuality common to Karan’s rtw, and the line is produced and sourced in some of the best factories available in Italy. There are seven new handbag shapes, including a traveler, shopper, ruched bag, shoulder bag, hobo and pouchette. Each is made with handrubbed soft leather, and features suede linings, yellow gold hardware and dangling strings, which, when pulled, alter the shape of the bag, crunching it or flattening it. There is also a more structured alligator and patent alligator group and pony skin totes and shoppers in Karan’s signature colors: chocolate brown, black and gold. In addition, the company is bringing back five signature belts, which were created early on in the life of the brand in a collaboration with Robert Lee Morris, including the conch, the slice, the lock and the circle belt. “I started with the bodysuit and whatever you add onto it gives you personality,” Karan said. “These accessories become the way that you personalize the clothes.” The distribution strategy remains exclusive for the first year. Parker- Lilly said the handbags will be distributed to 45 sales points, including the company’s four boutiques as well as upscale specialty stores such as Bergdorf Goodman. Aronsson declined to give sales projections, but said, “We plan to grow our accessories business to a point of at least 45 percent of our total net sales within the next five years, against the background of a growing global business. “This is not jumping on a bandwagon,” he added. “If it’s right, it should be done. For us, it’s a white page of opportunity. ” Is there an accessories category Karan still wishes to explore? “Luggage,” she said, perhaps with a nod to her owners. “I really believe these luggage bags aren’t long enough for woman’s gowns. I said to LV, give us long ones in black and gold. That would be a Donna Karan bag.” JOHN AQUINO THOMAS IANNACCONE; PHOTOS BY BY PORTRAIT 8 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004

Cool Characters HHilfiger: Now that the debut collection of H Hilfiger is blowing out of Federated stores in the early going, Tommy Hilfiger is already evolving his message. For fall, he’s taking a more dressed-up approach while retaining the collection’s appealing sporty mood. “We feel we have a jump on everyone else entering this area,” Hilfiger said Thursday, before a cocktail party to introduce the fall line. “We’ve heightened the luxury while keeping it versatile. It’s ladylike without being prissy.” The results look terrific, offering a complete wardrobe rooted in classicism while delivering as much edge as a woman chooses to incorporate. That’s possible because Hilfiger infused the collection with a soupçon of the rock ’n’ roll attitude he loves, but clearly knew when to say when. Thus, while his program notes maintain that “fall is all about motorcycle chic” — a claim supported by any number of racy leather jackets and moto pants — certain items, such as a full, frothy pink taffeta party skirt or a chic fitted trenchcoat, beg to differ. That dichotomy was just what Hilfiger intended. Citing as inspiration David Bowie and Iman, the stars of his current campaign, and his designing sister, Ginny Hilfiger, he identified the H Hilfiger customer as a woman whose lifestyle takes her “from formal parties to the playground.” This season, she can look great at both, and everywhere in between.

PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE

10 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004 Ozbek Signs On With Pollini Milan’s Early Birds By Luisa Zargani MILAN — After a two-year hiatus, Rifat Ozbek is back in business. Tapped by Aeffe owner Massimo Ferretti, Ozbek was named creative By Alessandra Ilari director of Pollini, owned, manufactured and distributed by Aeffe. The relationship between Ozbek and Ferretti goes back to 1981, when MILAN — People are still bundled in heavy coats, Aeffe started producing and distributing the designer’s signature line under and the fashion community is getting ready to his name. “When Mr. Ferretti called me with the Pollini offer, I was over view the fall 2004 collections, but in the fast-mov- the moon,” said Ozbek in the company’s showroom here a few days before ing world of fashion, where today is outdated and the launch of his first Pollini ready-to-wear collection, which bows today. last season is ancient history, designers are al- “When I left the fashion business, I was tired of all the creative madness, ready well into spring 2005. but now I’m ready and eager to get back, with lots of energy and ideas.” The need to bring the seasons earlier and ear- Aeffe, which also produces and distributes the Alberta Ferretti lines, lier to drive business and keep customers happy collections for Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez and Jean Paul Gaultier, took is more important than ever. It’s common these control of Pollini in 2001 and introduced a rtw collection for spring 2004. days to see spring 2005 sketches of bikinis and “Aeffe is strongly marked by the different creativity and personality of its skimpy dresses plastered on the walls of design designers and offers style and fashion products that complement each studios, at a time when the upcoming fall collec- other and express a strong individualism,” said Ferretti. “We felt the need tion hasn’t yet strutted down the runway. to impress on Pollini’s rtw collection a more precise and specific mark.” But, as Milan raises the cur- Under Ozbek, Pollini’s first collection will revolve around a Tibetan tain on its seven-day extravagan- theme. Ozbek pointed out this will not be a “costumy or ethnic” collec- za of ready-to-wear shows, most tion. “There is nothing ‘hippie’ about Pollini,” he said. fashion houses have already The line, according to the designer, is aimed at someone who likes to penned in at least 50 percent of mix patterns and experiment with fashion. His debut collection has late- pre-fall orders, which will be de- Fifties, early-Sixties classic shapes, rich embroideries, a luxurious palette livered in early July. that includes deep jewel hues and touches of brights, ivory and black. Most company executives, in There will also be a selection of tailored trenchcoats and outerwear. Retail fact, agreed that pre-collections prices range from $250 to $420 for skirts and pants, from $530 to $900 now account for approximately for jackets, and from $600 to $2,000 for leather items. There are also half of the season’s business, or, in some furs in the price range from $1,500 to $3,500. Pollini’s rtw collec- the case of Prada and Byblos, 70 tions are available in 109 points of sale globally and the company expects and 80 percent, respectively. to reach 200 with the fall offering, including 23 signature boutiques. Versace, instead, is looking to Pollini currently accounts for 16 percent of the group’s sales, which last boost its current 50-50 split to 60 year were $323.8 million, or 254.4 million euros. percent for pre-collections and 40 The Istanbul-born Ozbek has traveled extensively to India and the Far percent for the main one. Mos- East. From these areas, the designer drew inspiration for his own line, chino jumped on the pre-collection bandwagon two launched in 1981. His first collection caught the industry’s attention years ago and now those orders account for 40 per- with his mix of Fortuny and African prints on Madras cotton with silver cent of business. details. His Indian-American collection for spring 1992, when he intro- Overall, executives reported double-digit duced the first jacket with bone inserts, was also a milestone. Ozbek’s growth for pre-fall compared with a year ago, and last collection was for fall 2001. cited a number of looks as the best-selling themes: lady of the manor tartans, checks and tweeds in snug silhouettes, paired with tissue-thin printed silks; fur in all declinations, from floor- length coats to fluffy trimmings; flashes of Italian Diversions metallics, especially for outerwear; woodsy earth tones or deep gem hues, and boardroom stripes MILAN — All work and no play makes Giacomo a dull boy. The roller- served up in sexy shapes. coaster schedule of approximately 90 shows, and just as many “We have seen a strong uptick in our pre-fall presentations, doesn’t really leave much free time, but just in case, here sales,” said a spokesman for Armani. “This under- Clockwise from top: Left: Christian Lacroix’s wool and are some options to unwind. scores the generally positive trend that we have silk twin set and silk satin skirt for Pucci; Angela ● Prada will host a cocktail party tonight to inaugurate its boutique been seeing both in our stores and through our Missoni’s wool knit dress with fox stole. Left: Donetalla on Via Spiga, entirely dedicated to women’s leather goods, footwear and wholesale business in the last four to five months Versace’s belted cashmere coat, wool sweater and wool accessories. It replaces the existing venue located a couple of doors and certainly bodes well for the year ahead.” and spandex trousers; Byblos’ wool sweater, wool knit down. The store reflects the company’s desire to dedicate a whole area He noted that pre-fall looks amount for 50 per- skirt and wool coat. Gianfranco Ferré’s cotton, spandex to one of its most traditional and fruitful sectors and will be replenished cent of the season’s sales. with quirky styles, including some exclusive one-off items, as well as and denim riding jacket, wool turtleneck and wool tweed Pre-collections, ranging from 200 to 300 pieces, Prada’s made-to-order service. The boutique is painted in a feminine gained momentum as they enable hungry fashion trousers. Moschino’s silk satin floral print dress and color scheme and includes the installation of plasma video panels that hounds to gobble up new designer ensembles before skirt with wool fringes. Astrakaan fur jacket. project a sequence of images illustrating the various stages in the tie-dye anyone else. That puts pressure on the retailers to process, a highlight of the spring season. This idea is currently being keep unpacking fresh merchandise to keep the reg- the collection and someone else the last part,” developed for other Prada flagship stores around the world. isters ringing. Fashion houses, too, feel the need to said Burke. ● Tom Ford, who will take his last bow at Gucci Wednesday, will ILARI ALESSANDRA HUGHES; STYLED BY CHIARA ASSISTANT: GREEN APPLE; FASHION sprint ahead by producing and shipping sooner. Added Missoni: “We put some of the best pre- throw a post-show bash at the company’s Piazza Oberdan space to salute “Timing is always an issue and more and more fall looks on the runway.” the press and close friends. Details are still under cover. houses are listening to the ultimate consumer by Daniele Ballestrazzi, ceo at Versace, con- ● The new hot spot for aperitivi is the Park Hyatt hotel that opened in shipping earlier,” said Michael Burke, chief exec- curred: “Retailers want a taste of what goes down January during the men’s shows, and features high ceilings and a stark utive at Fendi. the runway, so it’s extremely important for consis- metropolitan atmosphere that stands out against Milan’s more traditional Many brands would like to further raise the de- tency’s sake that the pre-collection is the first neoclassic and Rococo interiors. livery bar to the end of November for spring, and message of the season, to be followed by what ● For those who want a full-immersion experience, try Noy, a new June for fall. comes down the runway.” multifunction venue on Via Angelo Mauro, on the corner of Via Soresina. “We’re making a big effort to revise our produc- Enrico Mambelli, Ferré’s ceo, stated that the Aside from a restaurant and a bar, you can buy flowers and candles and tion strategy to deliver as early as November and designer is set on guaranteeing continuity be- indulge in a steamy Turkish bath in the underground spa or check out June, since people today travel year-round and the tween the pre-collection and the main one. the latest Mini, the cool city car by BMW, and its apparel line. climate conditions have changed drastically,” said “It’s important to offer the consumer a single- ● For a cultural moment, head over to Galleria Sozzani at 10 Corso Vittorio Missoni, marketing director for his family- identity product, even though it’s spread out over Como, to check out the photographic tribute to the late Francesco owned company. “It’s a way to guarantee better time, because the collection has one mood and in- Scavullo, the Italian photographer whose lenses have captured the likes service and to meet the market’s needs.” spiration,” said Mambelli. of Madonna, Tatum and Ryan O’Neal, Anjelica Huston, Sophia Loren Missoni’s pre-fall sales were up 15 percent to The design direction of pre-collection culmi- and Bianca Jagger. The exhibition, which was inaugurated last Friday, $18 million at current exchange. nates on the runway, still universally considered runs through April 4. Gianpaolo Tarabini, the managing director at the best tool to flesh out the mood, message and ● At La Triennale art gallery, Gilles Bensimon, publication director Blufin SpA, manufacturer of Blumarine, Anna theme of the season. of Elle magazine, will display 30 years of his artistic career through Molinari and Blugirl, painted a similar picture. “The fashion show is still important to Prada as larger-than-life photos printed on aluminum foil, in color and black “Retailers insistently request earlier deliver- an instrument of communication. It’s when and white. They capture the essence of various worlds: fashion, ies, especially in the U.S. That’s why we present a Miuccia Prada can display all her work and the cinema, television, sports and music. The retrospective includes full-range collection that is updated by a flash for ideas behind it in a single context and in a relative- Audrey Hepburn, Claudia Schiffer, Christy Turlington, Uma Thurman, the runway,” said Tarabini. Blumarine was ly short period of time,” said a Prada spokesman. Madonna, Gwyneth Paltrow, Sharon Stone, Mariah Carey, Tina Turner, launched in 1981 and is designed by Anna Added Burke: “The show allows us to put togeth- Venus and Serena Williams and Alexander McQueen. It kicks off Feb. Molinari, who is also the creative mind for the er the undiluted essence of the season,” he said. 24 and runs through March 24. young, trendy Blugirl line, launched in 1995. That “During fashion week, Milan is packed with edi- ● On the fashion front, Gabriele Corto Moltedo, the 26-year-old son year, Blufin launched Anna Molinari, which is de- tors and retailers, many who come back here after of Laura Moltedo, the founder of Bottega Veneta, now part of the Gucci signed by Molinari’s daughter, Rossella Tarabini. they’ve bought the pre-collections,” said Mambelli. Group stable, is presenting his first namesake handbag collection. It Each line stages an independent fashion show. Armani, who shuns the notion that runway shows includes 17 styles in python, an exclusive distressed napa and suede Not that long ago, pre-collections were synony- are just for effect, said pre-collections don’t negate and adorned with brass hardware. The line is rounded out by a handful mous with saleable showroom basics, but today the importance of the main collection. Said a of leather looks and will be on display at Moltedo’s new showroom on 11 they are packed with the same design pizzazz that spokesman: “Fashion shows are the best way to pres- Via Vincenzo Bellini, through March 3. energizes the runways. ent the main collection, so the actual clothes and ac- — A.I. “Consistency is fundamental because it must cessories that will be available for retail are shown never look like one designer did the first part of in an accessible way to buyers and journalists alike.” REA/ FABIENNE HAIR AND MAKEUP BY NOBLESSE&BOUDOIR; MODELS: IRENA/MAJOR AND IVANA/FASHION; JOHNSON SARKISSIAN AT BY PHOTOGRAPHED WOLFGANG JOOP PRESENTS FALL/ WINTER 2004

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Legwear Report

After all these years, I“ stand for something that’s fun and sexy. — Betsey” Johnson PHOTOS BY DAVID TURNER DAVID PHOTOS BY From left: Corset-style thigh-highs; Johnson cut her favorite striped socks into — ta da! — armwarmers, and nylon socks from her debut collection. Betsey Thigh-High With New Line

By Emily Holt of hosiery she had amassed on visits to London. “I But the majority of John- would go and just load up with crazy stuff, great colors, son’s devoted fans (whom she NEW YORK — The only way Betsey Johnson’s new leg- great patterns. I thought, ‘Why can’t I ever get that kind insists get hooked when they’re young and come to her for wear line could be more her is if the tights could cart- of stuff here?’ So that’s the approach we’re taking, more Bat Mitzvah dresses) is already well-versed in her look. wheel on their own. of what isn’t out there.” Whether next fall they will be distracted by all the Truth be told, cartwheels on the runway are really Fern Pochtar, vice president and design director at prim and proper styles seen on the runways during New the only occasion for which Johnson favors tights. “I Solo Licensing, agreed there is a void in today’s legwear York Fashion Week, Johnson said: “In a way I vote for came from [wearing a] bikini to Arctic chill and then I market. “I’d been a fan of Betsey’s for a long time,” she that trend to happen, because my girl will maybe go for had to put my pantyhose on for my cartwheel in the said, “and we recognized the need for her to have this that, but she’ll also need an alternative. After all these show,” the designer, fresh from a four-day stay at her category. We also very dearly recognized the fact that years, I stand for something that’s fun and sexy.” home just south of Zihuatanejo, Mexico, explained. “I the hosiery departments in stores really needed some For now, the legwear will be sold in Johnson’s 43 bou- feel so trapped in pantyhose,” she added, squirming. perking up.” tiques and offered to department and specialty stores at If only thigh-highs provided the same coverage. “To If Johnson’s hot pink thigh-highs with black satin rib- market. Four seasonal groups will be produced per year me, they’re the most comfortable thing in life.” bons laced up the back don’t do the trick, another offer- and 2004 wholesale sales are expected to reach approxi- It’s no surprise, then, that she included plenty in her ing from the line surely will. Bright cotton pointelle mately $1 million. Johnson also recently inked licensing colorful debut collection for fall, which also contains socks with contrasting trim and sheer leggings trimmed deals for footwear and lingerie collections and said she striped knee-highs, polkadot socks and lace-up tights. in black stripes wholesale from $6 to $30. would like to venture into the home category as well. The line will be produced in a licensing deal with New Showing an eye for balance, Johnson is keen on After she gleefully destroyed sock samples at a photo York-based Solo Licensing and offered to retailers next adding “normal” colors to the group, knowing they’ll shoot to make a tube top of sorts for her dog, Lucy, it ap- month at the fall market. sell and also tone down some of her racier styles. peared Johnson had hit on her next big thing — dog ac- The idea was born of both a “desperate need” for leg- The legwear comes packaged with a pink label pic- cessories. She laughed at the thought. For the moment, wear in Johnson’s boutiques and her own intuition. “I turing a screaming Johnson clutching her chest. On the her new projects are enough to keep her busy and her just think with all the short skirts, it’s a Twiggy, Sixties reverse is a sketch of how the particular style should customer interested. “Once you get them with the Bat leg time again,” she said. be worn — slouch or no slouch? — for those needing Mitzvah dresses, they’re in your corner,” she said of her For inspiration, Johnson drew from the assortment guidance. loyal following. “Then they’re your friend.”

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Accessories/Legwear Retailers Race for Ford’s Collectibles Continued from page one well aware of Ford’s forthcoming exit from Gucci Group in April — and eager to stock up on clothes and accessories bound to have collectible and vintage appeal. “There is a real devoted Tom Ford client who is going to want to grab as much as she can,” said Kalinsky, who operates Jeffrey stores in New York and Atlanta. “When you know you can buy something forever and ever, you take it for granted, but when you know it’s not going to be there anymore, you’re more apt to horde it.” One of those devoted clients, Ford friend and fan Rita Wilson is coveting every last piece like a souvenir. Viewing a salon-style presentation of YSL’s spring 2004 collection at the Rodeo Drive boutique last month, she ticked nearly every item on the run of show. “I have to have every piece,” she repeated. When someone asked whether they might prove collectible, she quickly re- sponded, “Completely.” Many retailers echoed the sentiment, citing historical precedents of covetable last collections — from Isaac Mizrahi to Jil Sander to Gianni Versace. “We are definitely anticipating an uptick in demand — people will want a rush of what Tom Ford stood for,” said Anna Garner, head of fashion at Selfridges, which carries Gucci. Robert Burke, vice president and senior fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman, said he detected “heightened interest” in Gucci and YSL merchandise since November, when it was announced that Ford, Gucci Group creative director, and president and chief executive Domenico De Sole would exit the luxury group in April. “The consumer is very connected to [Ford’s] departure, much more than we had originally thought,” Burke said. Claudia Amati, owner of Leam, a multibrand store in Rome, said she estimates that about half of her customers know that Ford is Gucci’s designer and that most people who buy a Gucci bag are buying it more because of the brand name than because of anything to do with Ford. This contingent should keep the brand afloat even after Ford The Gucci snakeskin bag from spring ’04 is leaves, she reasoned. already a hot seller; Retailers say Tom Ford, At the same time, she said more above, offered a “greatest hits” collection fashion-aware shoppers should fuel a for his final Gucci men’s show last month. boom in accessories sales for Ford’s last collection. But Kalinsky hinted: “I Citing strong reaction to met an untimely demise. think I will be buying more. Ford’s recent collections for In 2000, when Prada Group announced that Sander Maybe I would be a fool not Gucci, Al-Sabah said he plans to was leaving her eponymous brand, Bergdorf ’s wit- to increase my budget, be- up his budgets for fall. What’s nessed an “immediate reaction” from customers who cause if the customer finds more, he’s planning new Gucci stocked up on her fall collection that year, believing it to a great pant, for example, boutiques in upcoming Villa be her last, Burke said. Sander returned to the creative she might want it in Moda outlets in Mumbai, helm at the house in May 2003. every color.” Qatar, Damascus and Oman. “When Isaac [Mizrahi] closed, the last collection sold Villa Moda owner “We are definitely going like hotcakes,” added Julie Gilhart, vice president and Majed Al-Sabah, who op- to buy more this season as fashion director at Barneys New York. “There was so erates Gucci and YSL opposed to last because we much publicity about that.” franchises in Kuwait, said are expecting a surge in Although Barneys does not carry Gucci or YSL he predicts “great de- sales,” said Garner. “I think women’s wear, Gilhart said Ford has a lot of fans, and mand” for both collec- the Gucci pieces will immedi- his departure would represent a selling point. “Women tions, not only for historic and ately become collectibles — es- have to connect to clothes, and buying something from collectible reasons. pecially the G-styled accessories. We’re already seeing Tom’s last collections has a personal appeal. It makes a “I think emotions are going to play a big role in the the resurgence of logo items in magazines.” purchase so much more enjoyable and meaningful.” demand,” Al-Sabah said. “I also think that we’ll be see- Retailers cited numerous examples where they saw At Selfridges, Garner said, “When Stella McCartney ing thousands of pages of editorials all around the world. a surge in demand after a designer left a brand, went left Chloé, we saw nearly 100 percent sell-through on her This will bring a load of traffic to the stores for sure.” out of business or — in the case of Gianni Versace — last collection, and we’re expecting the same for Gucci.” WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004 15

Sue Patneaude, vice president of women’s de- will look back and see that letting John go was one signer apparel at Nordstrom, said demand for of the biggest mistakes the house ever made.” And Gianni Versace’s last collection was unprecedented. it’s that kind of historical footnote that could up “The sell-throughs came to an all-time high that sea- the value of such investments. son after he died,” she said. “It was a phenomenon.” Whether consumers really buy for historical With some observers detecting a “greatest hits” sake or just for the season is up for debate, be- quality to the fall men’s collection Ford showed in lieves John Martens, president and general man- Milan last month, retailers said they would not be ager at Neiman Marcus Beverly Hills, “I don’t re- surprised to see some tried-and-true styles rein- ally know if people do that, but I do know people terpreted for Ford’s finale, especially at Gucci. buy if they like something. And they have re- Burke said he hoped to see some greatest hits, sponded very well to the Gucci fall collection and along with some “completely over-the-top” styles. what is coming for spring. They like the colors, “We’re all going in with the expectation that he’s and, of course, logos.” going to do a phenomenal show and he’s going to And while Martens conceded that his customers want to go out with a bang.” are likely aware of Ford’s departure, he doesn’t be- Al-Sabah agreed. “For both Gucci and YSL es- lieve it’s the deciding factor at the register. “They pecially, it is his challenge to prove to the world do have to still wear it, regardless of the name on and [Gucci Group majority owner Pinault- it. It’s ultimately more about the product.” Printemps-Redoute] that he is indeed a great de- Of course, retailers confessed to some anxiety signer,” he said. “With this collection, he’s looking about the future, since PPR has not yet an- to Xerox this into everyone’s brain forever, just as nounced Ford’s successors at Gucci or YSL, and he Xeroxed his hit 1995 collection, with the low- has vowed not to until Ford takes his final bow at waist velvet pants and big-G belts. This is going to YSL on March 7. be on the same pace.” Alexander McQueen, pegged as the front-run- Nordstrom, which has two YSL boutiques, ex- ner for the YSL post, declined the offer. It is be- pects Ford’s last collection for that brand to be lieved Stefano Pilati, women’s design director at coveted, especially items like velvet blazers, fur YSL, is assured of a high-profile post within the stoles, ruffle-front coats and leather pieces. group. The former Prada design wiz had been “Tom hasn’t been there long enough to have a widely cited as headed to Gucci, but he may be re- highly defined signature,” Patneaude noted, “but tained at YSL now that McQueen has removed those are the things people will want to snap up. himself from the running. Not all retailers are sizzling about the collec- “We’re very anxious about this transition, but tion, however. For one, vintage doyenne Rita we think we have to be positive,” Patneaude said. Watnik of Lily et Cie in Beverly Hills is taking a “A lot of it depends on who the designer is.” pass. “It’s not to say the clothes aren’t good, but in Amati in Rome also voiced optimism: “I am terms of collectible, that’s another matter. We sure that the Gucci brand won’t die.” make so much of everything now, it’s unlikely. If But it is hard to deny that curiosity, like the any piece does resonate a long time from now, it hoarding instinct, is reaching a new zenith. won’t be that hard to find.” Said Al-Sabah: “Now the only question I get There are modern exceptions, however, she from my clients is, ‘Who is coming next after continued. “When I saw that John Galliano was Tom?’” being released from Givenchy, we bought two of — With contributions from Samantha Conti, the most important pieces of haute couture for London; Luisa Zargani, Milan, and our collection. There will be a time when people Rose Apodaca Jones, Los Angeles Photo: Igor Perchuk

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Accessories/Legwear Knitting a New Future With Malo By Alessandra Ilari dile and satin, in white, baby blue, cyclamen pink, lacquer red and magnolia green. MILAN — Malo is no longer just about knits. On the footwear front, there are five-inch The Italian cashmere brand is expanding shearling boots, velvet braided sandals, round- further with a full accessories line it believes toe suede pumps and ballerinas. could account for 30 to 40 percent of its sales The shoes and the bags are complemented by 2007. Malo, which was founded in 1972 by by belts, reversible cashmere and cotton hats brothers Alfredo and Giacomo Canessa and and gloves in matching colors. sold to IT Holding in 1999, reported consoli- Wholesale prices are $246 for a napa Velvet dated sales of $115 million in 2003 at current bag and $240 for shearling boots. exchange rates. Malo is also upping its trendy quotient with Stefano Ferro, the chief executive officer such designs as tweeds, tartans and chevron who joined the company a year ago, has recruit- weaves reproduced on cashmere, buttonless ed a team of designers to create a line of bags, cardigans fastened with giant safety pins, dress- shoes, gloves, small leather goods, belts and es in sunset hues and shrunken, rainproof cot- hats. The team is guided by Alvaro Gonzales, ton windbreakers. who also consults for Jimmy Choo and Morris “We’re pushing on the accelerator by Clarke. Their first effort rolled out to Malo’s 30 focusing on quality-driven single pieces to stores worldwide for fall-winter 2003-2004. sprint ahead of our competitors,” said Ferro, Bags make up the lion’s share of the new line who has supplemented the apparel team with Looks from Malo’s ready-to-wear and come in 11 styles in sizes spanning from designers who hail from Yves Saint Laurent, and accessories collections. buckets and totes to drawstring bags. The best- Versace and Donna Karan. seller so far has been Velvet, a sausage-shaped At the same time, Ferro is driving Malo’s bag with whipstitching that Ferro has dubbed a retail expansion. After 12 store openings in “style symbol.” Velvet sold 1,500 units in two 2003, next on the company’s agenda for spring months and triggered a waiting list in Malo’s are openings in Dubai, Bahrain, Kuwait City, St. four U.S. stores in New York, Palm Beach, Bal Bart’s and Beirut. Malo is also broadening its Harbor and Aspen. U.S. network by scouting for locations on the For fall-winter 2004, the bags share a com- West Coast and Texas. Ferro would not disclose mon thread: colorful braided velvet handles Malo’s total retail investment. that recall the Andalusian techniques used to In addition to its own stores, Malo’s collec- make decorated harnesses. tions are carried in 450 doors worldwide. In the “I’m convinced that a certain type of con- U.S. they include Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth sumer is shunning iconic or ostentatious acces- Avenue, Louis Boston, Linda Dresner and sories for more individual pieces,” said Ferro, Wilkes Bashford. In the future, these wholesale who worked at Bally and at the Prada Group- accounts also will carry the accessories. owned Genny before joining Malo. “We’re investing in the U.S. because it’s the first For winter, Velvet, which takes a day-and-a- market to appreciate a quieter and more individ- half to stitch by hand, is available in napa, croco- ual type of luxury, based on good taste,” said Ferro. WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004 17 Hermès Promotes Leoni Obituary NEW YORK — Francesca The New York Madison Cyrus Mayer, 91, Mayer/Berkshire Leoni has been promoted Gallery, which opened in to executive director of 2000 at the flagship here, is NEW YORK — Cyrus Mayer, founder of hosiery public relations and cul- currently exhibiting photo- distributor Mayer/Berkshire Corp., died on Feb. 8 tural affairs at Hermès, a graphs from Bruce after a brief illness. He was 91. new post. Davidson’s iconic series of Mayer began his career in hosiery 70 years ago, She was director of public the New York subway. handing out promotional cards for the Valcort relations for Hermès in the Leoni will direct all ex- Hosiery Co. in New York. In 1944, Mayer, with his U.S. and will continue to di- hibition activities for the wife, Sylvia, founded The Mayer Co., which later rect all p.r. activities for the Madison gallery and spear- became Mayer/Berkshire. Its manufacturing affiliate, brand here, as well as devel- head shows for the Hermès Lemco Mills, is based in Burlington, N.C. op local initiatives for the galleries in Beverly Hills Mayer was active in daily business matters up Hermès galleries and pro- and Washington, D.C. until his death. mote Paris-based exhibitions Leoni was in her most “Every Tuesday, he and my mom would come out for the company in the U.S. recent post since 2001. She to New Jersey and sit in on meetings,” said his son, The Hermès galleries reports to Susan Anthony, Michael. The company has its headquarters in were established in an on- vice president of Hermès in Wayne, N.J. going effort to develop cul- the U.S., and will work In addition to Michael, Mayer is survived by his tural events and art-related closely with Hermès wife; another son, Chester; a daughter, Amy, and eight activities around the world. International in Paris. grandchildren. LEG BEAT

FUBU FOR FEET: Fubu The Collection is relaunching its socks and hosiery. The urban company, which previously had its legwear licensed to Iris Hosiery, has expanded its licensing agreement with Longstreet to include socks for men, women, Best In Show children, infants and toddlers, as well as girls’ tights and knee- highs. Longstreet already manufactures Fubu’s licensed children’s sportswear, outerwear, school uniforms and cold-weather accessories. The new legwear line is being manufactured by Silver Goose, a Longstreet affiliate. First samples are expected to hit specialty and department stores, along with Fubu’s 50 stores, this spring. Socks, available in three-packs, will be priced at $10 for children, $11 for women and $12 for men. Children’s hosiery will sell from $4 to $6. Sales projections were not available. “The children’s and accessories divisions are an important component to our consumer’s lifestyle,” said Daymond John-Aurum, chief executive officer of Fubu. “These categories are natural additions to the Fubu brand.”

SOCK IT TO ’EM: The U.S. Customs and Border Protection agency is scrutinizing sock imports to determine if they’re correctly identified by country of origin and fiber content. The focus on socks began Feb. 2 amid concerns from domestic hosiery producers and textile- state lawmakers that foreign producers are illegally circumventing quota restrictions. A key concern is imported socks being labeled as being mostly made of man- made fibers or wool when they are actually cotton blends, which would be subject to quota. Shipments from 22 When it comes to socks, showmanship counts. That’s why we create socks with countries, including China, are such winning personalities. Consumers love our unexpected colors and being targeted. Janet Labuda, director of Customs’ Textile stand-out design. Retailers appreciate our loyalty and support. Enforcement Operations Come see what's Doon in the winner’s circle. Division, said sock samples are being taken for fiber tests and the sock surveillance could last Sales Contact: Boonie Doon, 1359 Broadway, Suite 1000, New York, New York 10018 until April 30. A spokeswoman Kevin Boylan ([email protected]) 212.889.2220 for Sara Lee Knit Products, a large sock importer, said the increased inspections haven’t caused shipment delays. 18 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004 L’Oréal’s ’03 Net Rises 16.7% Esprit Names Porcelli ● PARIS — Despite currency fluc- Lindsay Garnier’s “brilliant year,” tuations, the war in Iraq and Owen- was described by Patrick Rabain, SARS, 2003 proved to be a good the Consumer Products Division’s Its Licensing Director Jones year for L’Oréal. president. Garnier’s sales grew 18 The French beauty giant post- percent to $2 billion, or 1.6 billion NEW YORK — Brand develop- managing director by Rich Nurik, ed net income of $1.88 billion at euros, in 2003 versus 2002, he ment veteran Carmine Porcelli who most recently had his own current exchange rates, or 1.5 said. This was in part due to the has jumped off the Bonjour bus to consulting company. Nurik has billion euros, for the period, up U.S. launch of Fructis shampoo, join Esprit as director of licensing. worked as general manager and 16.7 percent versus 2002. which has since grabbed 4.9 per- Porcelli, who has directed li- division head of numerous labels It marks the 19th consecutive cent of domestic market share. censing programs for Oscar de la since entering the industry in year the company has registered Rabain said the brand is now Renta and Halston during his 1980, including recent positions double-digit profit gains. known by 150 million American career, joined Esprit to manage as general manager for the Vanity L’Oréal chairman and chief consumers and its products are the company’s existing stable of Fair brand at VF Corp., general executive officer Lindsay Owen- in 20 million U.S. bathrooms. licenses, taking on some of the manager of the youth wear divi- Jones said at an analyst meeting Further, Garnier has lured the responsibilities previously held sion of Girbaud, senior vice presi- here Friday — held more than L’Oréal’s knowledge of the ethnic youth market, with 70 percent of by Melissa Farley, an Esprit vice dent of men’s and children’s for one month earlier than in past market the company will open a its consumers under 35 years old president who left the company Basic Elements, division head for years — that it is too early to give dedicated research center — in Latin America, for instance. in November. At Esprit, Porcelli men’s and young men’s at Jor- profit guidance for 2004. Yet he similar to its Chicago facility — Garnier executives are taking reports to Ursula Buck, execu- dache and national sales manag- did say organic sales growth in China this year. a regional approach with the tive director. er for Calvin Klein Jeans. should exceed last year’s, at plus global brand by introducing prod- In three years, Porcelli has “We are focusing our efforts 7.1 percent. ucts on a market-by-market basis. spearheaded the relaunch of the on the development of this Industry analysts expect to re- ● Despite a difficult luxury Seventies denim brand Bonjour brand and speaking to major receive guidance during the annu- BEAUTY BEAT market, L’Oréal’s Luxury Products as a moderate-priced lifestyle tailers to get their support for al general meeting on April 29. Division “recovered strongly” by label, largely focused on licens- our intentions,” Nurik said. For 2003, L’Oréal’s net opera- Indeed, emerging markets yearend, according to its presi- ing and marketing via a multi- Esprit is preparing to return tional profit — comprising an af- such as China, Russia and India dent, Gilles Weil. He highlighted million-dollar ad campaign that to retailing this spring in the U.S. tertax profit of the fully consoli- — where L’Oréal recently opened the firm’s taking a controlling in- stamped the Bonjour logo on with plans to open a store at 110 dated companies and including a factory able to produce 100 mil- terest in Shu Uemura last Novem- buses and taxicabs in major Fifth Avenue in the former the group share of the net profit lion units — are key strategically ber as a notable occurrence. “We cities. While the Bonjour brand Emporio Armani space and other of equity affiliates — was up 13.5 for L’Oréal these days. have big plans ahead for it,” Weil — owned by the Dayan family, locations in suburban malls percent to $2.07 billion, or 1.65 “This opening of new markets said. Owen-Jones added a goal is the producers of Faded Glory under consideration. The compa- billion euros, in the period. Its represents for our group a con- to have Shu Uemura generate 50 jeans for Wal-Mart and Route 66 ny has 13 divisions for different operating profit increased 2.3 siderable opportunity,” said percent of its sales outside of for Kmart — continues to devel- categories of merchandise, with percent to $2.28 billion, or 1.82 Owen-Jones. Japan in three years. op its retail rollout, Porcelli said total sales estimated at $3.5 bil- billion euros, year-on-year. Thierry Prevot, L’Oréal’s Within his division, Weil also he was lured by the opportunity lion, with roughly $1.9 billion The results were above con- managing director of the Asia listed some successful launches, to work at Esprit. coming from licensed products. sensus expectations. zone, discussed the burgeoning including Helena Rubinstein’s At Bonjour, he was replaced as — Eric Wilson As reported, L’Oréal’s consoli- prospects in China, where Color Clone foundation, Cacha- dated sales for 2003 were $17.54 L’ Oréal recently acquired the rel’s Amor Amor fragrance and billion, or 14 billion euros, down Mininurse and Yue-Sai brands. Lancôme’s Juicy Rouge — with 1.8 percent versus 2002. At constant He noted earning power is 2.5 million units of the lipstick Blair Delmonico Store Set group structure and exchange growing rapidly among the coun- sold last year. He added the rates, sales rose 7.1 percent. try’s denizens, that the number of Biotherm and Giorgio Armani At the meeting, Owen-Jones families earning more than $376, brands remain successful, as are For Time Warner Opening discussed wide-ranging issues, in- or 300 euros, a month there is ex- Kiehl’s new stores. cluding the impact unprecedent- pected to triple between 2000 ● Laurent Attal, managing di- NEW YORK — Blair Delmonico, store shop at Harrod’s. ed exchange-rate fluctuations had and 2005. He also said China’s rector of L’Oréal’s active cosmet- the Secaucus, N.J.-based costume “Our first account was Saks on last year’s business. As report- beauty distribution channels are ics division, lauded the launch of jewelry firm, is the latest retailer Fifth Avenue,” said David Salva- ed, currency variations for 2003 rapidly being modernized. Inneov Firmness beauty supple- headed to The Shops at Colum- tore, managing and creative di- amounted to minus 9 percent. For Last year, 70 percent of ments, Inneov’s first products that bus Circle in the Time Warner rector of Blair Delmonico. “Now, 2004, L’Oréal’s euro-dollar parity L’ Oréal’s sales in the country hit counters last March. Attal said Center here. 18 years later, we’re returning to hedging rate is 1.12 to 1.13. stemmed from luxury products, Europe’s beauty pills segment The company, which also sells our New York City roots with our Owen-Jones confirmed L’Oréal which generated 77 percent grew around 60 percent last year. watches, evening bags, knitwear, first stand-alone store here. It’s will maintain its stake in Sanofi- growth, said Prevot. Lancôme ● Beatrice Dautresme, execu- sunglasses and small leather ac- an exciting time for us, and we’re Synthelabo, the pharmaceutical was a strong seller, ranking num- tive vice president of strategic cessories, has leased 800 square looking forward to being a part of concern that has just launched a ber one in the 22 doors carrying business development, said feet to house its first store in New the grand retail buzz of Time hostile takeover of its rival, it in 12 Chinese towns. L’Oréal’s e-business registered a York City, scheduled to open in Warner Center.” Aventis. L’Oréal’s managers discussed 50 percent uptick to $36.5 million, early April. The firm uses Swarovski crys- As for upcoming acquisitions, some 2003 highlights by division. or 29.2 million euros, last year For this year, the company esti- tals and semiprecious stones in Owen-Jones said it is improbable ● For the Professional Prod- versus 2002. In the U.S., it gener- mates about $6 million in whole- its designs and targets 35- to 55- that L’Oréal will buy a Japanese ucts group, Jean-Jacques Lebel, ated sales of $21 million, or 16.8 sale volume, selling to such stores year-old women, with its earring, firm. However, he confirmed that its president, focused on the suc- million euros, up 38 percent year- as Bloomingdale’s, Marshall necklace and bracelet sets, which his company could be interested cess of Luocolor, a professional on-year. In the rest of the world, Field’s and Dillard’s, and a retail typically retail for $260. Blair in small-size concerns. colorant replete with light-reflect- L’Oréal e-business’ sales rose 70 volume of $4 million with its exist- Delmonico’s knitwear is priced “We have a very, very selective ing pigments and balsam en- percent to $15.5 million, or 12.4 ing stores in Dallas, McLean, Va., around $250. approach toward acquisitions,” riched with grape-seed oil, which million euros. Northbrook, Ill., and Las Vegas. In Alan Napack, a director in he said. “Acquisitions are done to colors individual hair strands. In L’Oréal stock closed Friday July, a second Chicago store, at Cushman & Wakefield Retail increase our future growth, not 2003, the product was launched in down 1.23 percent at a unit price 900 North Michigan Avenue, and a Services, represented Blair Del- just our present size.” five countries and is now carried of $85.22, or 68.10 euros. unit in Boston will open. The com- monico in the negotiations for a Owen-Jones added, “My pri- in 35,000 salons. Lebel also laud- — Jennifer Weil, pany plans a total of four openings 10-year lease. The owner, Related ority is internal growth.” ed the integration of L’Oréal with contributions from this year and another four next Cos., was represented in-house. He also said that to further Professional and Artec in the U.S. Brid Costello year. 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Continued from page 2 Armani because of the designer’s impact Properties’ new Burj Dubai development, on fashion and the aspirational nature of where there are plans for 250 suites, plus his brands. restaurants and a spa, covering more “Looking back, it’s difficult to match than 430,000 square feet. Alongside the what Mr. Armani has done in fashion,” hotel’s suites, the Burj Dubai will offer Ali Alabbar said, noting that Armani is 150 luxury residential apartments, all “associated with success and people who conceptualized by Armani and fully fur- want to be successful are happy to be as- nished with products from the Armani sociated with him. This is a brand un- Casa collection. The tower is the center- matched in recognition, and his commit- piece of a new 395 acre community adja- ment to innovation, within all his divi- cent to the Dubai Mall. sions, including furniture, is unrivaled.” “The Dubai location has already been Ali Alabbar similarly described the identified, but this doesn’t necessarily ambitions of the hotel concept in terms of mean it will be the first hotel to open,” innovative design and luxury qualities, said the Armani spokesman. “If we find adding that he plans to attend the design- Armani will manage all aspects of content, design and style, including architecture, interiors, furnishings and amenities — using items from Products from the the various Armani collections, as well as special Armani Casa line will be items designed specifically for hotel use. featured in the hotels. the right location in New York or Paris er’s show here today as he becomes accli- that is more durable. Each hotel will have Emaar Properties is the largest develop- and these are more readily available, we mated to the world of Giorgio Armani. its overall philosophy and concept, but Mr. er in the region with major commercial could be opening there first. Our criteria Meanwhile, Armani is learning about the Armani’s vision and imprint overall in and residential projects, including are finding the right city and the right nuts and bolts of the hotel trade, with spirit, type of service and amenities will Emirates Hills, Dubai Marina, Arabian street.” plans to develop special products under be consistent across the board.” Ranches — a combination of residences Armani is not limiting its search to new the Armani Casa brand for the properties. Ali Alabbar, who is also a Governor of and luxury apartments — and now the buildings, the spokesman said. “Ten percent of the investments will be the World Economic Forum, established Burj Dubai Master Plan community. Mohamed Ali Alabbar, chairman of attributable to interior furnishings from Emaar Properties in 1997 as a public Emaar is also a globally diversified con- Emaar Properties and Emaar Hotels & Armani,” the Armani spokesman said. “Mr. joint stock company with a share capital glomerate with the Dubai Bank and Resorts, said that the property develop- Armani will keep in mind that for hotels it of $1.4 billion, of which 30 percent is held Amlak Finance Company, Dubai’s largest ment company targeted a deal with is important to develop specific furniture by the government of Dubai. Today, mortgage provider, among its properties.

CHANNEL SURFING: What does luxury scion Bernard Arnault have thinking. Burberry is for everyone. That’s not white culture. in common with Alyssa Milano? Both have connections to There’s no culture attached to a raincoat. There’s culture French television station M6. Milano, of course, is star of attached to hip-hop and it runs deeper than just [vacationing Fashion Scoops “Charmed,” which is in heavy rotation, along with other in] St. Bart’s.” American prime-time fare and local reality shows, such as “The SOFIA’S WARDROBE: Sofia Coppola, who’s nominated for an Bachelor.” Arnault, meanwhile, just joined M6’s supervisory STEPHEN GAN, PSYCHIC: Don’t blame the editors of V for being a Academy Award for best director for “Lost in Translation,” was board, which is chaired by Albert Frere, who sits on the LVMH bunch of opportunists — they shot Janet Jackson for the spring spotted Friday riding up the elevator at 72 Spring Street to the board. It’s a small world, after all. cover just before Christmas, “when there was a rumor she Marc Jacobs showroom on the eighth floor. Could she be might perform at the Super Bowl,” editor Alix Browne said. looking for a dress to wear to the Oscars Sunday night? No, the SAY CHEESE: London stylist Katy England and fashion Jackson was on almost no one’s radar at the time, despite a visit wasn’t Oscar-related, said sources. She was getting some photographer Nick Knight have teamed up to create Liberty’s new album arriving soon and plans to play Lena Horne in a clothes to wear to events this week. windows for the spring season. Their idea is simple: Instead of biopic of the singer by ABC. But Visionaire co-mastermind pressing their noses to the glass, passersby are invited to join Stephen Gan was apparently so far behind the curve he ended IN THE BAG?: Nathalie Gervais, the former Nina Ricci designer, might the party. Earlier this week, the duo set up webcams in the up in front of it. “Stephen is a big fan of hers, and he’d worked be ready to jump back into the fashion fray. Word has it that store windows, attached to sensors that customers can use to with her before,” Browne said. “We’re always into doing big Gervais, who also designed at Valentino and Gucci, might soon join take a picture of themselves. The images are being printed out icons or total unknowns.” Sadly, Jackson offered no clues about Italy’s Salvatore Ferragamo as artistic director. Paris-based Gervais daily — about 1,000 photos have been taken so far — and the brouhaha that might have been prevented. “She’s kind of declined to comment and Ferragamo president Herve Martin was become part of an exhibition at the store. As an incentive — or quiet and sweet and polite and didn’t say a lot during the unavailable. It was not clear what a Gervais appointment would perhaps a deterrent — England will eventually decide whom shoot.” The Super Bowl fiasco “kind of came as a surprise to mean for Graeme Black, the former Giorgio Armani designer who she deems the most-“interesting dresser,” and the winner will us,” Browne said. joined the Florence-based Ferragamo less than two years ago. receive $570 in Liberty vouchers. The webcams will remain in place for the next two months. “People see fashion as such an HOUSE AND HOME: The broad team of artists responsible for the CHANEL-LING KARL: Amira Casar is not only a versatile actress, exclusive thing,” said a Liberty spokeswoman. “We wanted to Suburban House Kit currently on display at Deitch Projects on but a great impersonator. Presenting the award for costume make it more interactive.” Wooster Street left no details to chance in creating a full-scale design at the Cesars, a.k.a. the French Oscars, on Saturday home environment complete with a prefabricated steel house, night in Paris, Casar launched into an uncanny impression of EQUAL-OPPORTUNITY PLAID: Just because his Manhattan sports origami garden, backyard, driveway and car. Upon closer Karl Lagerfeld, mimicking his rapid-fire speech and lightning- bar, 40/40, serves more Cristal than Coors, it doesn’t mean inspection, there’s even a family’s worth of clothes in the fast opinions. At one point, she criticized the way some of the Jay-Z and his hip-hop ilk have sold out and gone luxe. In the closets, all provided by Cynthia Rowley, who staged her fashion presenters were dressed, nitpicking about sleeve length. Casar spring issue of Black Book — the “Bourgeois” issue — the show at the gallery a couple of seasons ago. Rowley donated didn’t mention Lagerfeld’s name, so much of her style coverboy, who discusses Burberry in the issue, defends his white evening gowns, dresses and sportswear for women, men’s dissertation was lost on the audience. But Jean Paul Gaultier, lifestyle by avowing that avarice is colorblind. “Hip-hop is black suits and pink and blue clothes for children, helping to who dressed best actress winner Sylvie Testud, was in stitches. culture,” he says. “This is somebody’s life and a way of give the house an air of authenticity.

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22 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004

Financial Weekly Stock Index 52-Week P/E Sales Amt High Low (000’s) Last Change Dollar Stores Gain Momentum Broadline Retailers 14.59 3.58 Bon-Ton Stores 16.2 927 11.92 0.37 By Vicki M. Young 18.16 12.32 Dillard’s 47.5 14833 17.16 0.16 51.18 23.96 Federated 16.6 52458 50.25 0.90 NEW YORK — It’s all about the 6.26 0.94 Gottschalks - 614 5.49 -0.06 dollar. 28.63 15.57 J.C. Penney 27.4 72475 28.41 0.16 As the retail landscape 36.17 17.81 May Dept. Stores 17.1 78469 35.60 0.80 evolves, one of the hottest desti- nations for consumers is the dol- 6.30 1.48 Retail Ventures - 2052 5.88 -0.02 lar store. 17.46 6.66 Saks 35.0 25435 16.90 -0.14 Among the stocks-and-frocks 56.06 18.25 Sears 3.8 93590 46.01 0.02 crowd, analysts in general are 43.70 25.60 Target 20.7 233528 42.64 1.47 expecting the dollar store sector 60.20 46.50 Wal-Mart 28.8 531156 59.43 3.11 to grab market share away from the likes of Kmart and even Softline Retailers Wal-Mart and Target. 45.60 17.05 Ann Taylor 22.8 21405 44.65 0.73 Still yearning for a high-end 5.97 0.70 Bluefly - 28981 3.89 -0.11 designer look? Don’t fret. 22.50 15.40 Burlington Coat 16.8 5118 18.82 -0.13 There’s always the new LVMH 6.85 2.70 Charming Shoppes 19.7 23923 6.11 -0.07 Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton 43.64 16.75 Chico’s FAS 39.7 41100 42.27 1.31 store here at 1 East 57th Street. 16.05 12.20 Dress Barn 62.1 2256 15.60 0.15 However, if a pair of socks or Discount stores like Dollar General are growing. 26.23 9.28 Foot Locker 20.4 36179 25.87 0.61 some accessory item tickles 23.47 12.01 Gap 19.6 164133 20.48 0.28 someone’s fancy, the buy is bet- 65.44 40.81 Kohl’s 27.3 143962 49.90 1.25 ter at the nearest 99 cent store. ing retail formats in the next in higher income brackets. 19.75 10.88 Limited Brands 18.3 75838 19.75 0.79 And who can resist a bargain? decade, is expected to “double “While the cash-strapped 59.33 25.90 Neiman Marcus Group 20.0 7440 57.71 -0.04 The value retail sector has in size over the next five years, segment is the most deeply 41.25 15.00 Nordstrom 27.1 77693 39.07 -0.40 four main operators: Dollar reaching over $26 billion in penetrated, the middle- and General, Dollar Tree, Family sales by 2007.” upper-income segment is the 25.78 11.26 Pacific Sunwear 26.3 62785 23.94 -0.62 Dollar and 99¢ Only Stores. The targeted household has an fastest growing for the dollar 31.70 16.29 Ross Stores 21.9 39791 30.67 0.57 Those nameplates, of course, are average annual income of $30,000. stores,” the analyst noted. She 8.40 6.20 Syms - 1341 7.84 -0.04 the ones that get on the radar It’s a demographic that spends pointed to improved product 38.65 22.00 Talbots 17.6 15124 34.08 0.65 screens of analysts. Others in- $95 billion each year on basic con- quality, a lessening of the stig- 24.46 15.54 TJX 21.4 67824 23.65 0.57 clude Big Lots, as well as neigh- sumables, which is almost one- ma surrounding the discount borhood mom-and-pop opera- third of the total U.S. spending on channel and the entertainment Vendors tions that are reminiscent of these items, according to the ana- factor for wealthier shoppers 65.32 47.08 Alberto Culver 21.7 7756 62.17 -0.44 “five-and-dime” stores. lyst. She expects the dollar store who “treasure hunt” as the 71.71 50.56 Avon 25.1 60525 71.19 3.58 The different dollar stores industry to take share from higher closeouts and seasonal buys 23.05 14.75 Cherokee 12.1 891 20.42 -0.59 comprise only 0.5 percent of price-point formats such as con- keep the changing merchan- 40.84 15.80 Coach 37.0 54514 39.36 1.01 total retail sales, excluding auto- venience and drug stores, and dise mix fresh. 59.39 33.21 Columbia Sportswear 17.3 8999 51.20 -2.10 mobiles and gas. So far, none of even supermarkets. According to her report, Dol- 32.40 16.29 Del Laboratories 16.4 573 32.09 -0.01 the key industry participants However, Schwartzman- lar General and Family Dollar 42.33 27.00 Estée Lauder 29.4 25996 40.85 -0.57 are yet national chains. But they Eberts also noted in her report operate as variety stores, whose 30.50 15.95 Fossil 20.9 5572 28.81 0.51 are growing. that “increased competition from product mixes include apparel. 12.00 4.62 G-III 10.5 137 10.20 -0.54 Shari Schwartzman-Eberts, the rapid growth of supercenters Consumables, representing 99.80 83.91 Gucci 30.8 2317 85.62 0.04 broadlines retail analyst at J.P. and Wal-Mart’s Neighborhood more than 50 percent of sales, 16.30 3.30 Guess - 8433 15.90 1.42 Morgan, in a recent research Market format could also limit are the main traffic drivers. 37.75 25.61 Jones Apparel 14.7 36699 35.76 -0.59 note wrote that she expects new store opportunities for the Most items are priced under $10. growth in the industry to stay [dollar store] industry, keeping Dollar Tree and 99¢ Only Stores 43.54 23.93 Kellwood 31.9 5326 40.53 -1.37 strong as the retailers “continue growth rates below our estimated are single-price stores, with 35.80 18.55 Kenneth Cole 22.0 2333 34.05 0.05 to target underserved low-in- 15 percent to 20 percent levels.” items at $1 and 99¢, respectively. 38.90 27.25 Liz Claiborne 14.9 19467 37.01 -0.04 come customers.” Store satura- Yet the potential for addition- Fredrick Fuest, chief operat- 6.90 3.40 Mossimo 7.3 879 4.48 0.01 tion is at least six years away, al growth is definitely there as ing officer at Active International, 32.50 17.72 Movado 17.0 1554 30.71 1.95 the analyst said. The group, con- dollar stores become an attrac- a corporate trading firm, resells 44.69 11.47 Oxford 25.9 3204 43.23 2.00 sidered one of the fastest-grow- tive format even for consumers inventory to retailers who oper- 18.82 11.60 Phillips-Van Heusen 17.3 3653 18.80 0.89 ate in the dollar store segment. 32.36 19.67 Polo Ralph Lauren 17.2 16058 31.03 0.34 “It is the fastest-growing seg- 19.55 12.42 Quiksilver 17.3 24910 18.92 -0.16 WWDStock Market Index for the Week Ending February 20 ment behind the supercenters. 3.92 2.05 Revlon - 32443 3.30 0.20 For us, the segment accounts for 20 percent of our sales, and we 21.15 15.43 Russell Corp. 13.2 6959 17.58 0.10 Composite: 122.80 Broadline Stores: 121.63 Softline Stores: 129.79 4.76 2.00 Tarrant Apparel - 11799 2.55 -0.15 expect that to grow within the 16.60 5.61 Tommy Hilfiger - 21421 15.05 0.05 next year or two to 30 percent of 8.59 1.41 Tropical Sportswear - 3379 1.50 -0.04 our volume. We resell food, bev- erage, confection, toys, beauty 45.18 32.62 VF Corp. 12.1 20437 44.82 0.16 4.06 5.46 2.48 18.25 8.80 Warnaco - 9111 16.59 -0.81 goods and socks and accessories. The biggest change, we’ve no- Vendors: 120.49 Textiles: 103.67 ticed, is that they used to take Textiles Index base of 100 is 3.99 1.35 Delta Woodside - 425 2.76 0.56 seconds, or irregular goods, back keyed to closing prices in 1998, but now want first-rate 0.05 0.01 Galey & Lord - 5016 0.01 0.00 of Dec. 31, 2002. inventory,” he said. 25.00 2.25 Guilford Mills - 142 22.75 0.25 1.00 -1.17 So far, the biggest operator is 7.37 4.25 Unifi - 4051 4.54 -0.17 Dollar General. David Perdue, chairman and Biggest Percentage Changes For chief executive officer of Dollar Week Ending February 20 General, said in December’s Gainers Close Change third-quarter earnings confer- Finally...Stability In A Factor! Delta Woodside 2.76 25.45 ence call: “As of the end of Guess 15.90 9.81 November, we had opened 667 Custom Tailored, Creative Financing Movado 30.71 6.78 new Dollar General stores, in- We can help turn your receivables into cash, faster. We provide financing from $1 million to Revlon 3.30 6.45 cluding two Dollar General $10 million in as little as one week. You need a lender who knows your business. Wal-Mart 59.43 5.52 Market stores, exceeding our Losers Close Change 2003 annual goal of opening 650 Sterling provides: Factoring, Asset Based Lending, Letters of Credit, Trade Finance, Bank Relationships Tarrant Apparel 2.55 -5.56 new stores.” The company oper- and Common Sense. G-III 10.20 -5.03 ates more than 6,000 stores and Take advantage of our experience. Speak directly with a decision maker. Warnaco 16.59 -4.66 the Market stores are more like traditional supermarkets. Contact: Columbia Sptswr 51.20 -3.94 Unifi 4.54 -3.61 One of the priorities for this For Factoring call Stanley Officina, For Asset-Based Lending call Robert Schnitzer, year, Perdue said, is a plan to President Vice President increase focus primarily on Sterling Factors Corporation at 212-575-4413 Sterling National Bank, at 212-575-4446 stores serving Hispanic and African-American customers. STERLING FACTORS CORPORATION FDIC Another 675 new conventional STERLING NATIONAL BANK NYSE: STL Dollar General stores are 500 Seventh Avenue • New York, NY 10018 • www.sterlingbancorp.com planned for the current fiscal year ending January 2005, OUR DOORS ARE OPEN ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP along with 20 Market stores. WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004 23 Election Year Economic ‘Boom’ Predicted By Vicki M. Young that to slow down any time soon. the next three months.” But while the outlook ap- tions are around $520 billion, “Tax refunds are running re- In addition, he wrote in a note pears bright for 2004, down the Steidtmann expects it will NEW YORK — Carl Steidtmann, ally strong this year,” the econo- on “Election Year Economics” road we might still have to pay more likely hit the $380 billion chief economist at Deloitte to $400 billion range. “It will be Research, and one of the top The cash that’s put back into consumers’ pockets will severe, but not nearly as severe economists in the country, has as it has been made out to be,” no worries this year. show up in retail cash registers over the course of “the he noted. The economist offered his Dealing with the deficits is views on election-year politics next three months. not a problem we need to face and how he thinks 2004 will ” now, but will be later on shape up during a Deloitte- “when the Baby Boomers re- sponsored conference call — Carl Steidtmann, Deloitte Research tire and [concern centers on] Thursday. The economy will mist noted, adding that the cash that the “surge in gift cards dur- the piper. unfunded Social Security pay- “boom” in 2004, and any sur- that’s put back into consumers’ ing this past holiday season will The headache we all should ments and Medicare pay- prises are likely to be on the pockets “will show up in retail add to beginning-of-the-year pur- be concerned about? Govern- ments that have to be made,” “upside.” cash registers over the course of chasing power for consumers.” ment deficits. While projec- he concluded. Weak economies can contribute to the electoral defeat of the incumbent party — think 1952, 1960 and 1980 — but a good economy is not a guarantee of electoral success, according to the economist. He noted that strong economies in 1968, 1976 and up Inc. 2000 did not help the incumbents stay in power. Who knows what will happen in this year’s election, but one thing is certain: Incumbents have become more effective in helping the economy and making sure it is not a liability for re-election. For 2004, Steidtmann expects the type of economic e see what you see” and the CIT logo are trademarks of Gro boom that happens maybe just once or twice in a generation. The last boom was in 1984, following a combination of tax cuts, military spending increases, falling interest rates and falling gas prices. “The business transformation is in many ways quite unprecedented,” Steidtmann said, adding that so far there’s 2003 CIT Group Inc. is a registered trademark and “c it”, “W been a soft pickup in capital © investment and exports. There’s also a labor market that is poised to improve, which would “make the economy self-reinforcing.” The transformation of businesses is driven by several factors, he said. “The improvement is in the inventory-to-sales ratio,” he added. The improved ratio reflects supply-chain efficiencies. Next up in terms of business transformation is radio frequency iden- tification tags, which Steidt- mann said will contribute to a further decline in the inventory- to-sales ratio. Corporate profit growth so far has resulted in a rise in capital investments, mostly for computers and software. And the growth in exports reflects economic improvement for our trading partners, the economist said. Japan, he noted, is showing signs of a “real recovery.” What all this points to is A decade ago, Skechers started out with a bold new vision of footwear good news on the employment front. A tighter labor market and a brilliant first step: choosing CIT as their lender. It was a relationship points to faster wage growth, which in turn is a positive for that grew as Skechers grew. Their size today: extra large. The fit with consumer spending. Wages fall CIT: still perfect. See how we can help you with financing, factoring in a traditional recession. Since wages are an underpin- and more at CIT.com or call (800) 248-3240. We see what you see. ning for consumer finances, consumer spending usually is affected. The good news this time, Steidtmann pointed out, is that real wages continue to rise, a factor that has fueled consumer spending. As for the 2004 outlook on consumer spending, don’t expect 24 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004

YOUNG MISERY: Gruner + Jahr USA won’t have Christina Kelly to kick Radice to Lead M&S Home Store Tests MEMO PAD around anymore. Kelly, editor in chief of the teen LONDON — Vittorio Radice is The M&S store trial will begin his marquee project — Marks & title YM, resigned Friday staying put at Marks & Spencer — with the redesign of the high street Spencer Lifestore in Gateshead, morning after what witnesses described as a humiliating staff for the moment, at least. store in Basingstoke, Hampshire, near Newcastle. He will take the meeting with G+J’s interim chief executive Axel Ganz. Dropping in The store has announced that and will roll out to an additional 10 press on a tour of the new 70,000- on a regularly scheduled editorial meeting, Ganz offered a Radice, director of M&S Home, high street stores, the company square-foot store, which has been scathing critique of Kelly’s magazine, a source close to YM said, will spearhead the trial of new said in a statement. Work will begin built around a central arena and is describing its as “not funny” and “not glossy.” store formats at 11 M&S stores shortly, and the stores will continue capped by an atrium. In the center “And he had never told Christina his feelings beforehand,” the across England. to trade during the redevelopment of that arena, there will be a fully source said. “She left that meeting saying ‘I can’t do this anymore.’” Radice is widely tipped to be a period, the company said. furnished model home designed by Reached in her office, Kelly confirmed she had quit of her candidate for Domenico De Sole’s M&S said leading U.K. archi- architect John Pawson. The store own accord after Ganz had ripped into her magazine. An interim president and chief executive post tects would be appointed to work will open to the public this month. editor has not yet been named, she said. A G+J spokeswoman at Gucci Group. Sources have in- on the new stores, and their names Two other pilot home stores will said a search for Kelly’s replacement is under way. dicated that he is not happy at would be announced shortly. If the open this summer. Those stores will Ganz cleaned house last week, sweeping away several key M&S, and could make a move, trial is successful, the stores will be located in West Thurrock, outside appointments made by former ceo Dan Brewster, who left the perhaps by fall. be rolled out nationwide. London, and in Kingston-upon- company under a cloud last month. Chief marketing officer Cindy A spokeswoman for Radice, Radice is overseeing the project Thames, in Surrey. The first will Spengler was let go Tuesday when her position was eliminated, however, has repeatedly denied as part of his extended role of look- span 62,500 square feet, while the and a new circulation chief, Cindy Still, was named the same day. that he is leaving M&S and that he ing at the M&S retail environment. second will cover 32,300 square feet. YM has been the subject of great debate lately among G+J is headed for Gucci. On Monday Radice will unveil — Samantha Conti executives who have realized the magazine has become untenable in its current incarnation, sources close to the magazine said. Ad pages have fallen 41 percent through the March issue, according to Mediaweek, as the advertising community continues to punish G+J for inflated newsstand Versace Denies Del Vecchio Report numbers in 2001 and 2002, first reported by WWD a year ago. G+J executives continue to debate whether the magazine MILAN — The clock is ticking for available for comment, but in the At the same time, the house’s fu- should skew younger or older, and how much lower the magazine’s Versace to repay $127.1 million, or past the company has denied that ture depends almost entirely on rate base should be. Newsstand sales fell 5.6 percent in the 100 million euros at current ex- Del Vecchio is interested in buying the wishes of Allegra Beck, Gianni second half of 2003, to an average of 385,000 copies an issue. change, in bonds due this July, a stake in Versace or investing in Versace’s niece, who turns 18 next Kelly had largely been kept in the dark about potential and various theories about the the fashion house. June and, under Italian law, will changes, the sources said, just as she was kept unaware of the method of payment are making newsstand inflations that were first blamed on then-publisher the rounds. The company is on schedule with its Laura McEwen before being traced to senior G+J execs during One press report had Luxottica the Rosie O’Donnell trial. chief Leonardo Del Vecchio buy- “plan to refinance the bond at maturity. Ironically, Kelly was handed the top job in fall 2001 after her ing up Versace bonds from in- boss, editor in chief Annemarie Iverson, was poached by Primedia to vestors, and another scenario in- — Versace spokesman” run Seventeen and Teen. The newsstand sales that so impressed volved using bank loans. Primedia execs to hire her were later to be the ones that G+J had “The company is on schedule One source close to Versace obtain the right to control her 50 overstated. Iverson was ultimately fired after less than a year on the with its plan to refinance the bond said he was confident the banks percent stake in the firm. Dona- job. Kelly was executive editor at the time, having arrived from a at maturity,” a spokesman said, will help, since the family has con- tella Versace, Gianni’s sister and similar role at Jane (which, like WWD, is published by Fairchild adamantly denying that Versace is siderable real estate assets, in- Allegra’s mother, holds 20 percent, Publications.) working with Del Vecchio to buy cluding Milan’s Via Gesú Palazzo, while Santo Versace, Gianni’s back the bonds. Luxottica was not to use as collateral. brother, holds 30 percent. 1466 BROADWAY AT 6 TIMES SQUARE

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Madison Ave - 3,000 SF Built Out & Furnished MUST RELOCATE. BELT Sales Person Excellent Price. Call JLO-Ellen Tracy-Steve Howard @ 212-689-9630 Madden-Fina Firenze Looking for an experienced BELT Accessories Sales person with a min. of 3 yrs. dept W 40th, 1430 Broadway store background. OFFICE SPACES, 175 SQ. FT. & 225 Merchandiser/Designer Please fax resume to 212-643-7524 or SQ. FT. Carpeted, Windows, A/C building, email to [email protected] Open 365 days 24 hrs. Call 212-398-0112 A leading fashion Italian and accessories company seeks a dynamic and experienced merchandiser/designer to join our handbag and small leather goods division. Candidate will know development. SLS - BRANDED HANDBAGS OPEN $ Maj co seeks SLS PRO for BRANDED The successful candidate should have extensive leather handbags line for Department Stores specialties. sourcing experience, as well as finely-tuned organizational A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. skills and fluency in CAD, Illustrator and Photoshop or com- 450 7TH AVE (AGCY) 268-6123 patible design softwear packages. Designer for Music Video Seeking Fashion Designer with a dozen Ability to manage entire process from concept to production new Hot & Sexy (but Classy) spring look a must. Extensive European and Asian travel required. Mini- outfits. Great opportunity for exposure! Tel: 512-453-4591 / Fax: 512-453-8302 mum of 5 years exp only!

We offer a generous salary + benefits package along with growth potential for the right candidate. Baby Jersey - Baby Rib French Terry - Lycra+reg Jersey + Rib Lycra + reg Please fax resume to: 646-452-5503 718-389-8902 CAD/FASHION DESIGN EMPIRE TECHNOLOGY CENTER Employers & Job Seekers improve your skills doing what you love! Learn b.r.b. CAD, Photoshop, and Illustrator. Create trend boards, fabric boards, be right back flats and more! Accepting all levels. Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. Call today: 212-661-9122 BRB, a major junior active wear company in L.A. seeks: No Lot Too Big or Too Small. Ask for Design Division Call CLOTHES-OUT: Senior Sales Executive (937) 898-2975 DENIM DESIGN & Highly experienced sales manager. Will direct & lead field DEVELOPMENT GROUP sales force, plan & strategize business growth. Must have Seeks to expand through Joint Venture experience with specialty chain stores and department stores. with Young (2-3 yrs) or Established Jean Company. E-mail:[email protected] Salary 100K-500K; extra benefit packages. Merchandiser Must have experience as merchandise manager at specialty Pattern - Production - Samples chain stores/department stores (also merchandiser at a brand Full - Fast - Quality name co.) Graphic Designer 212-575-1001 DESIGNER Please email resume to [email protected] For Space in Garment Center Exciting opportunity for a highly We need highly motivated team players that thrive in a fast paced Helmsley-Spear, Inc. motivated, creative individual! Well Associate Designer Design 212-880-0414 PATTERN/SAMPLES est’d. Accessory Co. seeks exp’d. environment. This job requires a Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast strong graphic artist who can Major apparel company seeks Accessory Designer HandbagDesigner.Thoroughknowl- Designer with 3-5 years experience. Spec designer for accessories & gift work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 enhance girl specific character Lease Dept. Available edge of Orient & piece goods a Must have experience with Infant/ boxes. Great fashion sense. Able to licenses. Illustrator and Photoshop Toddler Boys. Must be proficient work independently. Knowledge of Il- in Prime Location must. graphic design exp. a plus! experience a must. Experience with in Photoshop and/or Illustrator. lustrator & Photoshop. Graphic design Patterns, Samples, Prod’n Fax resume to 212-239-2766 A+. Friendly atmosphere. Medical ben- JILDOR SHOES Working knowledge of Illustrator, bags/ backpacks a plus. 30 Jobs Lane Southampton, NY Fast, Reliable, Full Service Shop. PhotoShop and Quark/InDesign. efits. Please fax resume 212-947-7601 600 Sq Ft. Direct Inquiries to: High Quality Work. Email: [email protected] Associate Production Mgr. 516-569-4880 Ext 5 212-840-6360 Some overseas travel req’d. Fax FRC [Foreign Resources Corp.] seeks an Design resume to Steve at: 212-704-0204 or fax Maria at 212 594-1029 exp’d person to assume responsibility for Showroom / Office / Retail coordination of all phases of import prod’n. Assistant Swim Designer We find you space-best deal-no fee PATTERNS, SAMPLES, from conception to delivery for branded Design degree/Swim exp. a plus. Comput- Garment Center Real Estate customer. Must have at least 5 yrs. exp. er sketching necessary. Lectra Systems/ Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 PRODUCTIONS ACCOUNT MANAGER ADMINISTRATIVE ASST Duties include spec issues, access & lab Help coordinating in production, fol- U4ia/ProStyle. Oversee sample dept.; All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. LINEA PELLE, INC. dip follow-up & tracking shipments from source trims. Team player in fast envi- Call Sherry 212-719-0622. low up with contractors, trim purchas- overseas. Must have strong prod’n. back- A leading belt co. seeks a highly motivated es. Light clerical. Computer knowl- ronment. E-mail: [email protected] Showrooms & Lofts individual to work in their private label ground & strong follow up skills. Please BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS edge. E.D.I. preferred. Fax resume & Fax resume & salary requirements to: division coordinating production and req salary a must. Joseph: 212 971-9236 Great ’New’ Office Space Avail product development in their LA office. 212-302-4347 Design ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS Requires experience in production CAD Designer $50-60K Associate Designer coordination with overseas factories, Tech spec packages & flat sketches Samples and patterns full servcie shop client management and product development. ANNA SUI Recognized Missy/Jr. Cut & Sew, Woven to the trade. Fine fast work. Jennifer*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 &Sweaters Co. seeks a talented person Experience in leather accessories a plus. ASSISTANT DESIGNER [email protected] 212-869-2699. Competitive salary and benefits package. 2-3 yrs exp. women’s sportswear. w/2-3 yrs. min. exp. Knowledge of Adobe Please fax or email resume: Strong creative, conceptual, practical Illustrator, PhotoShop, & Color Matter Fax: {310} 231-9949 design skills. Tech knowledge of gar- CAD DESIGNER, is a must. Fax/E-mail resume to Qaiser: PTTNS/SMPLS/BEADING Email: [email protected] ment construction a must. Illustrator, 212-354-5934 DAYWEAR [email protected] 1384 BROADWAY 257 W. 38th St. 10th Fl. Photoshop. Fax res. and sal. reqmnts Leading Junior, Daywear Company seeks Sublet Furnished Showroom/Office Service & Custom Tailor ACCOUNTS PAYABLE to (212) 768-2358. CAD Designer w/ 2-3 years experience. Call Johnny at 646-441-0950 Space. 3200 Sq. Ft. Bathroom/Kitchen. NYC manufacturing company. Part Fax Resume to 212-481-5787 Design Director Merchandiser to $150K. Cur- ARTIST-Graphic-3+ yrs doing Boys rent exp. in bridge cut & sewn tops/bottoms Available April. Please call Time. Minimum 5 yrs experience. Celeste or Erica (212) 869-4489. licensed character artwork-Spiderman/ CONTROLLER $60K+ sportswear. Must have fashion vision of INC, PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD Knowledge of computers. YuGiOh/MAC photo/illus nec. $45-55K Knowledge Plants Mgmt Andrea Jovine etc. Strong in Product devel. High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- Fax Resume to: 772-619-7994 Les Richards Agcy Call (212) 221-0870 AP, AR Payroll. MIS exp. High taste level. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy. 1411 Broadway - 2,500 SF [email protected] sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 ADMIN $80K+ Assistant Product Office & Showroom Retail Planners Design Dir/Merchandiser $120-150K. Current Mass Market Manager Customer Service Rep exp. in product devel. of JR denim bottoms, Beautifully Built Out [email protected] CHF Industries, Inc., a leader in textile Astra Golfwear, located at our New York twills, cords etc. Private label & branded. Su- home furnishings, has an immediate Office, seeks a Customer Service Rep pervise 6. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy & Furnished. Call opening for an Assistant Product who has excellent data entry skills, Admin. Assistant Manager in its New York Office. Must superior phone skills, is detailed and Howard @ 212-689-9630 Leading global packaging Accessories Designer $80-$100K. Current exp. in wo- be well organized, detail oriented, and accurate, and can multi-task. men’s moderate missy sweaters and cut & &Design Co. seeks Executive Assistant possess excellent PC skills (advanced Individual will be involved in all phases to join a fast-paced environment. Candi- sewn tops required. 1411 Broadway. Call RESUMES THAT WORK! SINCE 1970 skills in Excel and Word). College of administration and sales support, 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy. Updating/Phone Interviews date should be very organized with a degree in Textile or Business , with 1 including order processing, customer PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC. professional phone manner & strong to 3 years similar experience in a follow-up, returns, and responding to 60 E 42nd Street, NYC 10165 written & verbal communication skills. Merchandising or Production Depart- customer inquiries. Designer Associate to $52K. Current (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 Individual will be involved in all phases ment. Textile industry is a plus. exp. in men’s or women’s better to www.resumesforfashion.com of client and administrative support, Position requires 2 years minimum of bridge cut & sewn tops. Famous including order processing, customer Customer Service experience within designer label. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy 30th St. / 6th & 7th Ave. Responsibilities include: the fashion industry. follow-up, and administrative/clerical •Assist Product Manger in all aspects SHOWROOM 2 SHARE responsibilities. This full-time position of product development. For confidential consideration, please 2,000+ sq. ft. / Unique Loft Space requires the individual to manage •Communicate on product standards Fax or E-mail resumes to: Designer - Intimates Seperate Office / Showroom Area phone calls for an executive, prepare and specifications with vendors. 201-229-5083 Ideal Company in Accessory Market correspondences, liaison between client Intimates co specializing in bras and •Enter and maintain product informa- [email protected] underwear seeks freelance designer. Call 212-643-9750 and executive. Individual must have tion in the operating system. organizational skills with attention to Customer Service to $40KK Minimum 5 years experience. •Develop reports and spreadsheets for EDI, order allocation, inventory control. Fax resume to 718-858-7497 details. Position requires Excel & Word. weekly product status meetings. Knowledge of garment/fashion industry Allen*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 [email protected] is preferred. E-mail confidential resume We offer a salary commensurate with and salary requirements to: experience and excellent benefits. DESIGNER [email protected] For consideration fax or email resume DATA ENTRY JUNIOR LINGERIE FT/PT with salary requirements to: College grad. preferred. Computer Growing company needs Designer/ 8th Ave #555 24/7 Attendant Accountant $37K Admin. Asst. /Part Time FAX: (704) 522-4704 knowledge Excel, Word, Outlook, Merchandiser for new panty dept. Best Deals On The Avenue GREAT FIRM M-F (12-5pm), must be experienced with Email: [email protected] Photoshop & Illustrator. Experienced, organized, ability to 1675-3108 sq ft Beautifully Renovated GROWTH Word, Excel, Purchase Orders, Samples Please put "Prod Mgr" in the subject line. Fax resume & req. salary a must sketch, do presentation boards a must. Owner 212-695-0005 Or 718-387-0500 [email protected] etc. Various Duties. Fax: (212) 279-8950 EOE to Joseph: (212) 971-9236 Please fax resume to: (212) 532-8707 26 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004

A Multinational Manufacturing Conglomerate with over 20 plants and US$$1/2 Billion turnover in sales is seeking competent and enthusiastic candidates for the following position-

Licensed Knit & Woven Tops Immediate opportunities available: Sales Director (Based in Hong Kong) by MEN’S PRODUCTION (Ref.: EEL-SDA) Reporting to Deputy Managing Director, the incumbent will MANAGER play a pivotal role in driving and managing garment sales Knowledgeable in costing; experienced in working with teams for world renown buyers. A creative business person Italian & Asian factories. Minimum 5 years experience in that displays the competencies and experience below will high-end men’s apparel. Fluent in Italian a plus. qualify for this challenging position. WOMEN’S TECHNICAL •Bachelor degree DESIGNER •Minimum 10 years apparel sales and merchandising Strong understanding of garment construction, grading & fab- experience with at least 5 years at managerial level rications. Minimum 5 years exp. in women’s high-end appa- •Good knowledge in garment manufacturing rel. Excellent communication & organizational skills required. •Solid experience in dealing with international buyers with Jerry Leigh, a Southern California based leader in licensed / branded Please fax resume to: (212) 632-4322. EOE M/F extensive retail industry knowledge and good customer sportswear seeks enthusiastic individuals, who are looking for an contacts in the apparel markets exciting opportunity, to join our Levi’s® Brand Team. We have •Excellent written and spoken English required; Mandarin positions available for talented: Production Design Asst and Cantonese preferred but not essential Highly motivated prod’n design asst. Account Executives, Designers Good computer knowl. a must. Produc- •Excellent communication and presentation skills and Graphic Artists tion exp. necessary. Fax resume w/ sal- •Good leadership and team building skills with ability to ary req to 212-302-6141 attn: Margaret. work with people at all levels Account Executives should have mid-tier/spec/dept. store retail sales BUYER - Resortwear Relocate to Beautiful Catalina! •Energetic, committed, proactive and flexible experience. Designers and Graphic Artists will preferably have apparel 3ofthe finest Specialty Stores on Catalina industry exp, knowledge of Photoshop / Illustrator and be self starters. Island are seeking an experienced Buyer Remuneration commensurate with qualifications and experi- with a background in Specialty Please submit resume and salary requirements to: Resortwear. Excellent salary &benefits... ence. Interested candidates should first read the book Human Resources Dept. / Anna Fair including housing! Fax/E-mail resume to: "Good to Great" by Jim Collins, and if your management E-mail: [email protected] 310-510-2357 style is a fit, send detailed resume and salary expected [email protected] Phone: 818-909-6200 Fax: 818-909-7855 Production / Graphic Artist to [email protected]. Please mark the Ref. Code to 7860 Nelson Rd. Van Nuys, CA 91402 Production / Graphic Artist needed for the subject column on your Email. Visit our website creating complete production pack- http://www.esquel.com for brief profile. ages. Experience with prints, repeats, DESIGNER color separations, embroidery as well Leading Hosiery Mfg with key Urban Jewelry Designer as packaging & Ads. Mastery of We are an Equal Opportunity Employer and strive to place and Junior Brands in the country Midtown jr. fashion jewelry mfgr. Photoshop & Illustrator a must. Must Seeks Highly Motivated & Organized seeks a creative and innovative sr. de- be fast, accurate & detail oriented & qualified applicants where suitable positions exist. Designer. Knowledge of Photoshop & signer. Must have 3-5 years of experi- ready to work in a fast-paced environ- Illustrator a must! E-mail resume to: ence creating a costume jewelry line. ment. Great opportunity with fast [email protected] Must be able to interpret trends and be growing baby company. Do you think a trendsetter. Pls state salary require- you are the best at what you do, come ment in response, to be considered. show us... DESIGNER [email protected] Email: [email protected] Fax: 212-695-0203 Attn: Grace TIME FOR A CHANGE "Magic Jeans" Merchandiser Asst $70-80k. Current exp Fast growing jeans mfr seeks designer in prod devel of bras. Maintain line ca- Come join us! We are a to create new lines, prepare pkg for fac- lendar, color flow charts, trend devel, PRODUCTION MANAGER diverse, successful private label tory prod’n, sample/size spec approval, stat analysis etc. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy Adobe Illustrator/Photoshop skills a Fine Jewelry company doing business for over 50 must. Fax resume to: 212-827-0011 or Openings in Apparel Thru Growing luxury fine jewelry co. seeks years. We offer a pleasant work E-mail: [email protected] production mgr. Must possess strong environment with offices in both the APPAREL STAFFING, LTD. organizational skills plus min 5 yrs ex- DESIGNERS - Freelance; We Need U! Asstnt. Operations Mgr - Accessory Mfr. perience in gold jewelry production U.S. and Asia. We are searching for Major metro kids’ wear textile studio Designer-Career Wear - Westchester Loc. (domestic and overseas), inventory a dynamic sales professional who seeks exp’d. print, applique, collage & Designer-School Supplies+Stationery Xlnt Oppty. management & shipping. Excellent can hit the ground running. Must screen designers. Top sales 4 U. Please Designer- Cut N Sew Knits Sptswr.- Juniors salary plus benefits. Email resume: Fax resume or call: 973-237-0078 Costing Dept. Mgr -Designer Label Mfr. [email protected] have strong sales ability, proven Designers IMMED Production Coordin.- Bi-Lingual Required track record and current relation- Childrens $45K Techn Dsgnr. -C.W.R. Cut N Sew Knits Production Manager ships with catalogues and stores for CAD Artists $36K Techn Dsgnr. - C.W.R. Woven + Knits Bkgrnd. private label. We will consider only [email protected] Other [email protected] Growing, LA based, denim lifestyle or Fax Resume to (212) 302-1161 brand seeks prod. mgr. to oversee all candidates with min 10 yrs experi- Designer categories. Must have 4+ yrs exp, tech ence selling women’s apparel. Hard knowl, and overseas travel exp. Excell. TECHNICAL DESIGNER Patternmaker $70-$90K. Current exp. comp + bene pkg w/ career growth work and results will be handsomely Childrenswear Company seeks experi- in womens tailored constructed better- oppty. E-mail res: [email protected] rewarded with a generous compensa- enced Technical Designer with kids to- bridge suits. Growing midtown co. background. Must have knowledge of Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy. tion plan. Please send resume: flat sketching, grading, and garment Production Managers Fax: 212-594-3009 construction. Must be detail oriented PATTERNMAKER 2bilingual positions avail. for private and have good communication skills. Children’s Apparel Co label mfr.; 1 in US (English/Chinese) and Good salary and benefits. (2 Position’s Available) 1inElSalvador (English/Spanish). Both Fax resume to: 212-239-2766 Production Patternmaker. Must have require import exp., and ability to multi- Designer to $65K. Current exp. in kids or jr inti- Lectra exp. Ability to work on all size task & work independently. Please E-mail mate apparel. Panties. Bras. Tanks. Crops. ranges. Min 5 yrs experience. resumes to: [email protected] Color concepts. Creative & tech. Silouettes & FIRST PATTERNMAKER GLOBE-TEX APPAREL graphics. Must hang w/ Limited Too, Nick & Table patternmaker. Responsibilities Account Executive Nora, etc. Call 973-564-9236 Agency incl working w/Designers. Ability to PRODUCTION MANAGER Major established company seeks work in all size ranges. Min 5 yrs exp. Wanted for thriving, high end men’s sales professional with department DESIGNER Sportswear Company based in Soho New store background in kids. Must have Please fax resume to: York. Minimum 5 years experience in account relationship, be results Top better dress and eveningwear co oriented and have excellent communi- seeking highly motivated, organized 212-643-9130 Attn: Brenda Small patternmaking by hand and computer (Gerber Software), textiles, marking, grad- cation and organizational skills. Three indiv. Ability to flat sketch/spec & years minimum experience required. communicate overseas a must. 5 yrs Patternmaker ing and sourcing; must be resourceful and equipped with contacts; must be able to Excellent salary and benefits. exp req’d in same mkt. Email resume: Experienced Tailored Jacket Fax resume to 212-239-2766. [email protected] source domestic & international produc- Patternmaker tion, patternmakers, fabrics, trims, etc. Ap- DESIGN Mgr-5+ yrs exp styling/des- Labeled Ladies’ Career Separates mfr. plicant must be extremely knowledgeable igning Juvenile bedding/blankets/com- seeks Chinese speaking individual with of fashion industry in NYC. EMMELLE forters/lite tvl/give directn. $75-85K solid tailored clothing patternmaking Please fax resume to (212) 274-8997 Les Richards Agcy Call (212) 221-0870 exp. in lined jackets for bridge/better SALESPERSON markets. Strong drapping, knowledge of Madison Avenue Designer Boutique tailored jacket sewing constructions, Receptionist/Office Asst. seeks sales associate with a minimum Domestic Manager LONG ISLAND LOCATION Apparel company seeks individual fits and grading are a must. Knowledge of 3 years experience. Must be highly of Geber is helpful but not necessary. MAXX NEW YORK, a leading mfr. of motivated and professional. Part time. with min 3 years experience. designer handbags seeks responsible, Responsibilites include scheduling Salary commensurate with experience. Tel: 212-570-6559 Fax: 212-249-1427 Please Fax resume to: 212-871-0782 organized individual to manage front shipment from public warehouse, nego- desk and administrative duties in busy tiate warehouse rates, inventory Jericho office. Computer background a conrol, processing orders to ensure Patternmaker Head $70-$80K. Current exp. in Outerwear Sales 1st and production patterns in jr. bottoms re- plus. Please fax resume attn. Andrea: Foreign Resources Corp. (FRC) seeks a timely delievry. (516) 933-0278 Please fax resume to: (212) 244-0358 quired. Gerber proficiency. Supervise 2 sample Salesperson exp’d. selling Men’s & Ladies’ hands. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy. Outerwear. Must know L/C business & TECH DESIGNER have an est’d. account base. Fax resume GRAPHIC ARTIST & salary requirements to: 212-302-4347 For growing company with an eye for Sleepwear manufacturer seeks F/T Product Developer/Bags Technical Designer with min. 3 yrs. junior trends. Must know how to use Well established Promo. Bag Co.w/ 5th Adobe Illustrator, Photoshop and exp. Must have strong patternmaking Ave showroom seeks someone ready to skills. Knowledge of garment construc- Sales Acct. Exec. Autocad. Starting salary $38K. take charge. Unique opportunity for Fast paced sleepwear and daywear Please fax resume to: (212) 268-5489 tion and graded specs. Computer skills creative, detail oriented, self starter amust. Excel, Word, Daywear experi- company seeking a highly motivated with strong sketching, Adobe and Illus- ence a plus. Must be able to follow sales person with solid Department Graphic Artist trator skills. Work directly with China through from design sketch from and Specialty store contacts for New Large childrenswear company seeks factories. Great growth potential. Prev. sampleroom to final production with York Showroom position. Competitive graphic artist with experience for girls exp. in bags. Fax – 212-683-1238. overseas factories. Fax resume: compensation package will be offered. 4-16. Must have experience with t- 212-685-4341 Att: Keith Interviews will be conducted on Friday, shirt graphics and embroideries. Must PRODUCTION $50K March 5th. Please fax resume to: be proficient with Illustrator and/or NAME FIRMS (212) 689-6508 Photoshop. GROWTH Technical Design Asst Fax resume to 212-239-2766. STABILITY High-end women’s clothing co. in [email protected] SALES/ADMINISTRATIVE midtown Manhattan seeks an exp’d Tech- High-end accessory company seeks Import Manager nical Design Asst. Candidate should sales oriented individual w/ 3-5 years Production Assistant $30-$35K. Min 1 have an Assoc. Degree in Patternmaking Dress Co. seeks exp’d. Import Mgr. Duties year exp. in production scheduling, wholesale experience. Established include spec, sourcing, L/C’s., schedules, and min. 2 yrs Tech Design exp. Should account following a plus & desire to follow-up. EXCEL proficient. 1411 be organized & detail-oriented w/strong and monitoring import shipments. Fax Broadway. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy. dvp new accounts. Must be willing to resume to: 212-768-1301 computer & communication skills. Pls. travel. Diversified responsibilities & fax resume (212)683-6761. able to mutli-task. Import Manger Production Assistant Please fax resume w/ cover letter and Better accessory manufacturer seeks Technical Designer $90-100K Current salary requirements to: 212-245-2038 Major apparel company seeks individu- exp. in better to bridge suits and al with minimum 3 years experience. person w/ min 5 yr experience. Email resume in confidence to: jackets. Tech packages to Far East. Responsibilities include scheduling Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy and monitoring overseas shipments [email protected] SALES!! and processing documents to ensure Ben-Amun hot fashion jewelry/belts co. timely delivery. Knowledge of AS 400 is looking for an energetic, enthusiastic Production Coordinator Technical Designer +hard working team player. High end required. LC experience is a must. Assistant technical designer to 50 K. Fax resume to 212-239-2766. Fast growing accy. firm seeks highly accessories sales and relationships with organized indiv. for all phases of prod’n. Full time/great benefits. Email resume: retailers a+. Responsibilities include: Min. 2-3 yrs. exp. w/ L/C’s, importing, [email protected] trade shows, merchandising and thor- Imports $45K Wal-Mart & JC Penney prod’n process, Technical Designer to $70K. Current ough follow up. GREAT work environ- GREAT FIRM overseas factories, freight, customs. exp in bras required. Fit, tech ment + benefits. Please contact: GROWTH Excel & computer exp. a MUST. Pls. fax packages. Midtown well known co. Tel (212) 944-6480, Fax (212) 944-9625. [email protected] resume & salary req’s to: (212) 243-7867 Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy Email: [email protected] WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004 27 Textile Groups: Safety in Numbers

By Kristi Ellis new ways to survive and one is to pool re- want to consolidate our resources and do sources and find common ground. things together and work together. Part of WASHINGTON — Mirroring the consoli- Textile and fiber companies and asso- what the industry is trying to do is speak dation that has swept through the do- ciations fought back last year, setting dif- with a common voice and remove du- mestic textile industry, the leadership of ferences aside and formed an ad-hoc plicative efforts.” two long-standing associations have cre- coalition to save what is left of their ail- Hubbard also declined to say whether ated a new group, the National Council ing industry. AYSA, which has 90 active and associate of Textile Organizations, which may take their place. The leaders of the American Textile The merger talks were completely abandoned Manufacturers Institute and American “ Ya rn Spinners Association had in recent because we couldn’t make that work. We decided months been discussing a merger. After talks bogged down, they opted to create it would be best to attack it in a different way and the lobbying-focused NCTO. It has been incorporated in Washington, and already form a new group focused primarily on lobbying. has started quietly soliciting members. ” It is unclear whether the ATMI, found- — Jim Chesnutt, ATMI ed in 1949, or the AYSA, founded in 1967, will continue to operate or dissolve. They rallied around the looming threat members, would dissolve. Since the NCTO is still in the planning of China and successfully pressured the “A lot of companies have membership phase, things could change overnight, but Bush administration to impose safeguard in a number of organizations,” Hubbard textile and fiber executives are dedicat- quotas on three textile and apparel im- said. “So this may not impact us at all.” ed to a new entity. port categories. They continue to find Hubbard said AYSA’s members will The organizers have sent out 250 let- common ground on pushing for a compre- have to vote on the future of the existing ters soliciting new members, according hensive quota agreement with China. association: “Until our membership knows to Jim Chesnutt, the ATMI’s current pres- “The new organization still needs to the new organization and how it operates ident, who is also president and chief ex- 99,400 jobs in 2003. be ironed out,” said Mike Hubbard, exec- and fully understands the structure, I don’t ecutive officer of Washington, N.C.-based Unity in the U.S. textile industry has utive vice president at the AYSA. “We expect to call a vote or dissolve the AYSA.” National Spinning Co. been lacking for more than a decade as “The merger talks were completely subgroups ranging from weavers to yarn abandoned because we couldn’t make that spinners tried to secure provisions in work,” Chesnutt said in a phone inter- trade legislation to benefit their particu- view. “We decided it would be best to at- lar sectors. ATMI has lost members in the tack it in a different way and form a new past couple of years due to differences group focused primarily on lobbying.” over trade legislation, most prominently Retail Apparel Prices Drop in January Allen Gant, president of Glen Raven Roger Milliken’s Milliken & Co., which WASHINGTON — Retail prices for women’s ap- over the past three months and over the past Inc., also has been instrumental in estab- split with the organization in September parel fell a seasonally adjusted 0.6 percent in year,” said Charles McMillion, president of lishing the NCTO and is expected to play 2000 and worked to form a new trade January from December, reversing a slight gain MBG Information Services. “This reflects the a big role in the association, according to group, the American Manufacturing that month and following the category’s long- particularly severe glut of cutthroat priced ap- Chesnutt. Trade Action Coalition. term deflationary pattern, the Labor Depart- parel imports, particularly from China, and the Chesnutt refused to speculate on Many textile and fiber associations ment’s Consumer Price Index revealed Friday. loss of pricing power for industry producers.” whether ATMI would be dissolved. plan to continue their operations and Compared with January 2003, women’s ap- Overall, retail prices rose 0.5 percent in “We are working on a plan and our maintain their membership. AMTAC will parel prices fell sharply by 4.7 percent, a re- January, driven primarily by a sharp rise in en- members will have to make the deci- remain a separate lobbying entity as will flection of the price pressure plaguing the in- ergy costs. The CPI is a closely watched gauge sion,” he said. the National Textile Association. dustry for many months. of inflation. However, without a merger or dissolu- “I’m sure there will be areas where For all apparel, retail prices fell 0.3 percent Stripping out the volatile food and energy tion, the textile companies belonging to we will diverge and that is a good reason for the month on a seasonally adjusted basis, prices, the CPI inched up 0.2 percent. the existing associations would end up to have a separate, more targeted associ- following a 0.4 percent decline in December. In women’s apparel, retail prices for outer- paying additional dues to join any new ation,” said Karl Spilhaus, president at of Compared with January 2003, retail prices for wear plunged by 7.2 percent in January and association, which some say would de- NTA, which represents makers of woolen all apparel fell 1.9 percent. Consumer prices fell sharply by 7.3 percent against a year ago, feat the whole concept of consolidation. fabric and yarn, elastic fabric, flock and for girls’ apparel fell 1.4 percent last month while prices for dresses fell 2.2 percent last In the meantime, ATMI continues to knit fabric makers. “It would not help us after showing some signs of strength and fell month and 1.8 percent against January 2003. struggle and operate with a skeletal staff. to join with them because we would risk 4.2 percent against a year ago, while prices for Consumer prices for suits and separates rose The association downsized in 2002 and our message being diluted.” men’s apparel fell 0.6 percent in January and 0.9 percent in January but fell 1 percent year 2003 and operated on a $2 million budget The NTA was formed by the merger of 1.5 percent year over year. over year, while prices for underwear, nightwear, that had been slashed by about one third the Northern Textile Association and the “Apparel prices continue to be the only sportswear and accessories rose 0.1 percent in 2002, as was previously reported. Knitted Textile Association in August 2002. major component of the [Bureau of Labor last month and were flat against a year ago. Last year was a grim year for the be- But, as the industry continues to Statistics] price index to suffer falling prices leaguered textile industry, which lost shrink, trade associations are creating — K.E.

ACCESSORIES REP SALES Leather Mfr. seeks aggressive rep for Major branded multi divisional hi-end accessories for the Virginia’s & importer seeks salespeople. We are a Carolina’s areas. Previous exp. selling SALES EXECUTIVE well-established firm with a proven clothing/accessories a must. Must have Jr sportswr co seeks talented sales exec track record. Must be able to thrive in acar. Commission based position. Start in NY w/ strong contacts with better a fast-paced, dynamic organization. Independent Sales Rep immediately. Please call: 212-517-8188. SALES REPS specialty & dept stores. Salary+Comm. We seek two salespeople with a Aggressive Independent Sales Rep Seeking driven reps for new men’s and Fax resume & acct list to 323.846.0300. minimum 6 years experience selling wanted for our fashion forward Jr. DOMESTIC KNITS women’s upscale denim / sportswear 7-16 girls denim to specialty stores and contemporary line. Must have own Missy domestic knits, related separates and existing streetwear line. Dept department stores. showroom with existing contacts. -looking for Reps ALL territories with & Better Specialty store contacts Wealso seek two more salespeople with Please fax resume to: (213) 748-1511 and without showrooms. Must have required. Email or fax resume to: amin 6 years selling children’s and in- accounts. Call Eric 212-382-2272 [email protected] Sales Executive (LA & NY) fants apparel and swimwear/sleepwear F 248-546-4549 Ph 866-329-7070 Est’d silk importer & mfr seeks exp’d lines to the mass market. Hat Mfr. from China Booth# Magic ST30707 candidates in textiles. Energetic, moti- Attractive salary and benefits package Weare based in the USA & UK. Seeking vated individuals to work in our L.A. & available. Fax resume, which must Agent/Reps that have contacts with N.Y. showrooms. No relocation availa- include salary history and require- clothing lines and brands to sell our ble. We offer salary + commission. ments, to: Director of personnel: SPORTSWEAR & BODYWEAR REPS production from our Shanghai facto- EASTERN SILK MILLS, INC. 212-967-6004 Wanted for Italian Ladies ry. We produce the BEST hat known to Fax: 908-351-9433 Sales $ open. Current exp. in women’s man. Monthly productions of 500K + E-mail: [email protected] outerwear/coats recqu’d. Popular or seamless sportswear & units. E-mail resume in confidence to: moderate or better priced market OK. bodywear collections. Must [email protected] This is a large growing established have following & refs. Many mdtwn co. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy territories still available. Independent Reps Territories Available!! Sales IMMED SHOWROOM SALES HIGH COMMISSIONS! Ladies Better Sportswear and Contemporary women’s dresses STABILITY NY Junior Bottoms mfr. seeks an exp’d Swimwear designer collection. and separates has territories MENS LOUNGE salesperson with Dept. & Specialty Fax resumes: 718-851-7038 Resort/Hotel/Cruise clients a major available for pro-representatives. $OPEN$ stores to bring in new business. Email: [email protected] plus. All territories. Fax resume to: Interview at WWD Magic, 51678 or [email protected] Please fax resume to (212) 921-7817 Human Resources 949-248-3353 Email: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Cotton Incorporated, 2002. © k of Cotton Incorporated. Registered Service Mark/Trademar ® TERS.

® tailored AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPOR PRODUCERS AMERICA’S COTTON

Tailored separates by Chanpaul. Fabric by cotton. Cotton. The fabric of our lives®. www.cottoninc.com PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO; MODEL: CAROLINE MASCHIO/SUPREME; HAIR BY DENNIS GOTSOULUS AND MAKEUP BY ROANNA, BOTH FOR WARREN TRICOMI MANAGEMENT; STYLED BY ANTONIA SARDONE WWD WWDMAGIC down-filled jackets andcoatsmake keeping cozycool.Here,fromthecontemporary NEW YORK —Don’t letalittlefrostybreezegetinyourway. Thelatestpuffy, category, afauxfur-trimmed polyesterjacket from ReactionbyKennethCole. down MAGIC town Section II Section II 2 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004

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WWDMAGIC INSIDE vp, editor in chief Edward Nardoza editor 12 James Fallon managing editor Dianne M. Pogoda associate editors, special sections Libby Estell Jennifer Hirshlag fashion features editor Nandini D’Souza contributing editors Robert Barr, Carrie Bell, Evan Clark, Kavita Daswani, Matthew Evans, Julee Greenberg, Holly Haber, Sarah Jenks, Melanie Kletter, Georgia Lee, Nola Sarkisian Miller, Wayne Niemi, Rusty Williamson, Kristin Young stylist Antonia Sardone art department Art Director, Andrew Flynn Associate Art Director, Antonio Aguiar Assistant Art Director, Kim Svitic Designers: Kara Hasson, Amy LoMacchio, Emilio Marin special sections copy editors 20 Deborah Boylan Doug Hennemeyer Lisa Kelly Maureen Morrison president, wwd mediaworldwide Edward J. Menicheschi senior vp, group publisher Ralph Erardy fashion manager Gus Floris associate publisher, sportswear Vanessa Mahlab associate publisher, designer 24 Melissa Post associate publisher, 4 calendar: The who, what, when and where of WWDMAGIC. innerwear/legwear/textiles 12 scene: Joel Fertel Cut loose in Sin City with our top picks for downtime disruptions. associate publisher, accessories 13 market news: The Otis College of Art and Design displays some young talent, Alix Michel and Chanel invites attendees to drink up the offerings at its new beauty bar. associate publisher, technology Tia Potter 14 vendor spotlight: Exhibitor traffic is up at WWDMAGIC, with fresh and seasoned clothing companies lining the aisles. fashion director Dale Reich 16 accessories: Designers have fun with their wares, but get serious mass beauty director with business. Randy Segal 18 foot wear: Shoes step into the spotlight at this week’s show. european advertising director 20 junior accessories: At the end of the day, business is just a fad for Elizabeth Haynes junior accessories vendors. west coast account executive Kara Levy 22 junior/young contemporary: It’s a name game for companies appealing to the teen set. production manager Michelle Leung 24 in·dex: A preview of those to watch in the contemporary category. production coordinator 25 the edge at magic: Designers who walk the walk thrive in this Leigh Roderick competitive sector. fashion photographers John Aquino 26 retailer roundup: Retailers give us the inside scoop on what’s topping their Thomas Iannaccone shopping lists. models 28 contemporary: Vendors look to continue the business upswing by wooing Caroline Maschio/Supreme customers with updated looks. Patricia Ribeiro/Supreme 30 sportswear and dresses: hair The category as a whole searches for a value Kelly Gola/WarrenTricomi Management proposition, while vendors in thegallery look to enhance their visibility. Dennis Gotsoulus/WarrenTricomi Management 32 casual lifestyle: Vendors celebrate a looser attitude, but not when it comes to meeting the bottom line. makeup 33 resort: Roanna/WarrenTricomi Management Expanded space at retail is providing new opportunities for this fashion assistants hot sector. Nicole Keating 38 outerwear: Basics are taking a backseat as vendors expand their range Leah Francis of offerings.

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magic moments GREG PROBST/CORBIS PHOTO BY A comprehensive guide to making the most of your time at WWDMAGIC.

REGISTRATION HOURS Sands Expo & Convention Center SHOW AMENITIES Las Vegas Convention Center ● Room 201 International Business Center Feb. 23-25: 7:30 a.m.-6 p.m. This center provides international guests an opportu- Feb. 26: 7:30 a.m.-4 p.m. FOOD SERVICES nity to register, network and speak with representa- Sands Expo & Convention Center Complimentary Continental Breakfast tives from the U.S. Department of Commerce. Feb. 23-25: 8:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Served daily at the LVCC and the Sands. LVCC Translation services are also available to assist with Feb. 26: 8:30 a.m-4 p.m. breakfast sponsored by Kenpo. Sands breakfast registration. sponsored by PJ Salvage. ● LVCC, Room N258 EXHIBIT HOURS Las Vegas Convention Center Special Lunch Program Press Club Feb. 23-25: 8 a.m.-6 p.m. $5 lunches will be available to exhibitors and retailers at MAGIC International offers members of the media a pri- Feb. 26: 8 a.m.-4 p.m. designated locations at the LVCC and the Sands. vate lounge in which to register for the show, file stories, (THE edge opens at 9 a.m. daily) gather exhibitor information and dine. Sands Expo & Convention Center TRANSPORTATION ● LVCC, North Hall, Room N255 Feb. 23-25: 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Service Between Venues ● Sands, Room 202 Feb. 26: 9 a.m.- 4 p.m. MAGIC’s complimentary limousine provides service between the LVCC and the Sands. Service times: President’s Club Lounge VENUES Feb. 23-25: 8 a.m.-6:30 p.m. Sponsored by Walters Golf MAGIC (men’s apparel and accessories): Feb. 26: 8 a.m.-4 p.m. The MAGIC President’s Club caters to key retailers and Las Vegas Convention Center executive decision-makers in the apparel business. WWDMAGIC (women’s apparel and Hotel Shuttle Service Members can relax or conduct meetings in the lounge accessories): Sands Expo & Convention Center Available between MAGIC selected hotels and the while enjoying complimentary amenities such as a MAGIC Kids (children’s apparel LVCC and the Sands. Service times: buffet and business services. and accessories): Las Vegas Convention Center Feb. 23-25: 7:30 a.m.-6:30 p.m.* ● LVCC, Room N250 THE edge (alternative trends and lifestyle): Feb. 26: 7:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m.* ● Sands, Room 204 Las Vegas Convention Center * Hotel shuttle service ceases 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Prayer Room SHOW OFFICES Airport Shuttle Service A quiet place for spiritual relaxation, reflection and Las Vegas Convention Center Service is available on Feb. 26 only, from 9 a.m.-5 p.m. meditation. ● North Hall, Mezzanine Level, N251 Transportation is provided from the LVCC to McCarran Feb. 23-26: 6:30 a.m.-6 p.m. ● South Hall, Concourse, Room MS229 Airport. Shuttles are located in front of the LVCC and run ● LVCC, North Hall, Mezzanine Level, Room N264 every hour. Continued on page 6

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cocktails at the cash bar while infusing your senses with groove-laden beats. ● LVCC, Central Hall, Designer & Contemporary Category, Booth DE 4129

THE edge Lounge Hosted by Jointz Magazine This lounge sits at the heart of THE edge and provides an energetic spot to eat, drink or just chill and watch DJs spin. Come visit THE edge cocktail reception, Wed., Feb. 25, 3 p.m.-5 p.m. ● LVCC, South Hall, Lower Level

Disney Lounges Located in the Grand Lobby of the LVCC, this lounge will feature a style expert for Generation Y and a champion for the design-deficient. Also, in the North Hall of the LVCC, see the display of the best of Disney’s unique vintage and classic apparel from around the world and discover why it’s catching the attention of trendsetters who want their lifestyles to show a little character. Lastly, at WWDMAGIC at the Sands, come see Disney Cuties, characters you grew up with in a style you’ve grown into. ● LVCC, Grand Lobby and North Hall; Sands, Upper Lobby

Boost Lounge Enjoy complimentary cocktails at the Boost Lounge. Boost Mobile, a lifestyle-based brand that specializes in wireless communications products for the youth market, invites MAGIC exhibitors and attendees to come lounge and experience fresh beats provided by eclectic spun tracks, graffiti art and action sports filmography. Complimentary drinks will be served Feb. 23-25, 4 p.m.-6 p.m. ● LVCC, South Hall, Upper Level FASHION SHOWS MAGIC Presents StyleFile Fall 2004 Feb. 23-25: 12 p.m., 2 p.m., 4 p.m. Feb. 26: 12 p.m. ● LVCC, Grand Lobby

WWDMAGIC Presents the Fall 2004 Fashion Shows StyleFile

PHOTO BY BETTMANN/CORBIS PHOTO BY Feb. 23-25: 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. Feb. 26: 11 a.m. The WWDMAGIC Accessory Design Series ● Sands, Upper Level magic moments An innovative exhibit of fall 2004’s key accessory trends. ● Sands, Upper Level Concept Continued from page 4 Feb. 23-25: 1 p.m. Vert Ramp Demo and Challenge ● Sands, Upper Level EVENTS OTB Jeanswear and Anywhere Sports Productions Sunday, Feb. 22: MAGIC International return for the third year as MAGIC’s Vert Ramp sponsors SEMINARS President’s Club Golf Invitational with top skateboarding athletes Matt Moffett (top 10 fin- Monday, Feb. 23 MAGIC International and Walters Golf present the ishes at the Mervyn’s Beach and Kona Summer 8 a.m.: The Business of Fashion: Establishing Your President’s Club Golf Invitational. This invite-only event Nationals in 2003), Danny Mayer (ranked in top 10 at the Business and Protecting Your Designs will be held at Bali Hai with a 9 a.m. shotgun start. World Cup of Skateboarding), Marc Englehart (currently Presented by Wasserman, Comden, Casselman & Pearson Sponsored by The Sector Group: P Zero Tempo Watches ranked as the top In Line Vert Skater in America) and LLP. Hosted by Thomas J. Speiss III, Olga A. Karasik and and Sector Sport Watches, and Where Las Vegas magazine. Gary Laurent (currently featured at the Riviera Hotel in Michael G. Homeier. Las Vegas, performing in “Splash” and riding his motor- A seminar focusing on business and legal matters within Monday, Feb. 23, 7:30 p.m.-11:30 p.m.: cycle in the Ball of Death). the fashion industry. Opening-Night Event Feb. 23-25: 12 p.m., 2 p.m., 4 p.m. ● LVCC, Room N243 MAGIC International presents Love’s Divine with spe- Feb. 26: 12 p.m. cial guest Seal at CMX Las Vegas Studios (located behind ● LVCC, South Hall, Lower Level, Young Men’s Category 10 a.m.: The Business of Fashion: Establishing Your the Palms Casino Hotel). Tickets can be purchased for Business and Protecting Your Designs $60. All proceeds go to Children’s Hospital Los Angeles. The HP Experience Encore presentation. For further information or to purchase tickets, call 218- The HP (Hewlett-Packard) Experience is an interactive ● Sands, Room 102 723-9792 or visit MAGIConline.com. showcase that demonstrates the impact digital technology products have on people’s lives. 10 a.m.: Make eBay Your Runway: Tuesday, Feb. 24, 9 p.m.-3 a.m.: ● LVCC, South Hall, Upper Level Learn to Sell on eBay COMMUNITY at Rain Presented by eBay. Inside the Palms Casino Hotel eBay Information Kiosks Taught by an eBay expert, this seminar will provide an MAGIC International presents COMMUNITY with spe- Visit eBay’s Information Kiosks at MAGIC and WWD- overview of how eBay works and walk you through the cial guest Busta Rhymes. Sponsored by URB Magazine, MAGIC to learn how your business can benefit from selling process, with helpful hints on how to attract cus- Levi Strauss & Co., Madsoul, Red Bull, Boost Mobile, eBay’s community of 75 million registered users, and tomers, maximize your returns and set up your own epassporte, John Deere and the Palms Casino Hotel. to get a guided tour of eBay’s apparel categories. “retail shop” on eBay. Early arrival is strongly suggested as admission is limited. ● LVCC, Grand Lobby; Sands, Upper Lobby ● LVCC, Room N262; Sands, Room 106 For more information, visit MAGIConline.com. SHOW LOUNGES 11 a.m.: Hug Your Customer: The Proven Way to SPECIAL FEATURES URB Magazine Lounge Personalize Sales and Achieve Astounding Results Otis Design Vignettes Designed to bring the magazine’s urban alternative cul- Hosted by Jack Mitchell, ceo of Mitchell’s of Westport and Otis College will show creations designed by junior- and ture to life, the URB Magazine Lounge includes nonstop Richard’s of Greenwich. senior-year fashion students. Companies and designers live DJs, live runway fashion shows, art installations, The only way to stay in business is with customers, and who’ve served as this year’s class mentors include Op, daily happy hours and industry mixers. Jack Mitchell knows how to attract and keep them. Jack’s Nike, Cosabella, Rod Beattie, Henry Duarte, Tanya ● LVCC, South Hall, Upper Level business philosophy is based on “hugs” — personal Sarne of Ghost, Rozae Nichols and Michelle Mason. The touches that impress and satisfy the customer. Otis Design Installation is held in conjunction with a MAGIC Cyber Station ● LVCC, Room N245 $25,000 grant that MAGIC will be donating to Otis to MAGIC International and Hewlett-Packard present a directly benefit the fashion design students. cyber station where visitors may access the Internet to 12 p.m.: Survival of the Fittest: When Buyer and Supplier ● Sands check messages, news and other information via HP’s Think Alike featured technology products. Presented by Enhanced Retail Solutions. The WWDMAGIC Mannequin Trend Exhibit ● LVCC, North Hall Lobby and South Hall, Upper Level Hosted by James Lewis. A collection of fall 2004’s most directional silhouettes This discussion will cover the collection and analysis of and fabrications. in•dex Lounge Sponsored by Zink Magazine weekly retail sales data with special attention paid to ● Sands, Upper Level Enjoy a contemporary lounge environment and sip Continued on page 8 Civilization doesn't demand you climb to the top, though it does expect you to have a decent suit for the attempt.

THE FORUMSHOPS AT CAESARS

FOR LEASING INFORMATION CONTACT GARY LEWIS 317 263 7926 8 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004

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10 a.m.: How Much Should I Buy? Presented by OTB Retail Systems. Hosted by Mort Haaz. magic moments Retailers will learn how to set up a buying plan to ensure leaner, better-balanced, faster-turning inventory with fewer markdowns and a positive cash flow. ● LVCC, Room N243 Continued from page 6 forecasting, replenishment, demographic profiling, 4 p.m.: Fall/Winter 2004/05 Color & 10 a.m.: Spring/Summer 2004/05 Trend Right Issues sales curves and vendor-managed inventories. Trend Forecast for Women’s Wear ● LVCC, Room N243 Encore presentation. Presented by Color Portfolio Inc. Hosted by Carol Meek. ● LVCC, Room N243 A focused report on key issues for color, trend, fabric, 12 p.m.: Fall/Winter 2004/05 Color & print direction and silhouettes. Tr end Forecast 4 p.m.: How to Stay Motivated: Where Do You See Your ● Sands, Room 102 Presented by the American Trend & Color Committee. Business and Career in Five Years? This seminar will introduce six palettes of 48 colors Presented by Fashion Business Inc. and the Scott–Thaler 10 a.m.: Make eBay Your Runway: specifically targeted to the American market for men’s, Associates Agency. Learn to Sell on eBay women’s, children’s and active apparel, including home Brian Thaler will present a fun and informative seminar Encore presentation. furnishings and novelty goods. to give you the tools to stay motivated and focused, while ● LVCC, Room N262; Sands, Room 106 ● Sands, Room 102 at the same time advancing your career. ● Sands, Room 102 12 p.m.: Brand Cohesion 2 p.m.: How to Beat the Odds and Grow Your Retail Presented by the Gale Group. Hosted by Mindy Gale, Jacky Business in a Bad Economy Tuesday, Feb. 24 Clyman, Eddie Ash, Kelly Rae and Jorge Ramon. Presented by Global Purchasing Group Inc. 8 a.m.: RPA’s 2nd Annual Fashion Industry Study Mindy Gale will present branding and image building in Mercedes Gonzales will lead this workshop for estab- Presented by RPA. Hosted by Michael Bills. a competitive marketplace. Jacky Clyman will elaborate lished retailers who require inside information on the Using case studies, retail experts will explore how to upon branding for young men’s apparel. Eddie Ash will needs of today’s market. create fully articulated brand latitude plans — from focus on cohesive licensee branding, managing ● LVCC, Room N243 position to promotion — to identify trends and maxi- licensees and the brand message. Jorge Ramon and mize opportunities. The explosive tween market will Kelly Rae will jointly discuss branding/marketing for 2 p.m.: Fall 2004 and Forward serve as a specialized study group. the consumer, style trends, market impact and what Presented by Doneger Design Group. ● LVCC, Room N243 makes a brand hot. Hosted by David Wolfe. ● LVCC, Room N243 A look at the forces driving fashion forward. Lifestyle 8 a.m.: Survival of the Fittest: When Buyer and Supplier patterns, consumer profiles, marketing directions, Think Alike 12 p.m.: How to Open and Run a Successful Retail Store colors, fabrics and design trends will be examined. Encore presentation. Presented by Global Purchasing Group Inc. ● Sands, Room 102 ● Sands, Room 102 Mercedes Gonzales will mediate a workshop geared toward helping the prospective or veteran shop owner 3 p.m.: Make eBay Your Runway: 8 a.m.: The Pros and Cons of Retail Exclusives avoid problems that consistently foil small retailers. A Learn to Sell on eBay Presented by LIMA. Hosted by Marty Brochstein. discussion on what to expect in this competitive market Encore presentation. This panel will examine this trend from a retail, licensor is also included. ● LVCC, Room N262; Sands, Room 106 and manufacturer perspective. ● Sands, Room 102 Continued on page 10 Featuring: JULISSA

Stock your store for ‘04! To see the new line of footwear call 800.792.5552

WWDMAGIC February 23-25, 2004 The Beach 10 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004

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Continued from page 8 2 p.m.: Global Sales, Marketing and Licensing Opportunities and Off-Shore Sourcing Presented by Fashion Business Inc. and the U.S. Department of Commerce. Hosted by Frances Harder, Greg Weisman and Richard Swanson. This seminar will demystify sourcing, exporting and licensing as well as examine the resources available to assist growing companies. ● Sands, Room 102

3 p.m.: Make eBay Your Runway: Learn to Sell on eBay Encore presentation. ● LVCC, Room N262; Sands, Room 106

4 p.m.: Youth Predictive — Autumn/Winter 2004 Presented by Doneger Design Group. Hosted by David Wolfe. Color, fabric, print and pattern direction, in addition to key silhouettes, will be highlighted within each trend. ● LVCC, Room N235-7

4 p.m.: Apparel Sourcing: How to Grab Your Share of the U.S. Market Presented by the Sycamore Marketing Group. Hosted by Barbara Ende. This seminar is geared toward the apparel contractor interested in working in the U.S. market. This is a must- PHOTO BY OWAKI-KULLA/CORBIS PHOTO BY attend event for any firm hoping to manufacture product either for U.S. retailers of private label merchandise, for U.S. brands or for other major industries such as corporate apparel or uniforms. ● LVCC, Room N243

4 p.m.: Building Context and Community for Young Adults to Drive Merchandise Sales: Differentiating Your Brand Amid a Multitude of Youth Retailers Presented by Alloy. Hosted by Samantha Skey. Gain insight into the composition and power of the youth demographic as well as how best to communicate brand messages to them. Benefit from shared case studies and lessons learned. ● Sands, Room 102

Wednesday, Feb. 25 10 a.m.: How Much Should I Buy? Encore presentation. ● LVCC, Room N243

10 a.m.: Fashion Retail Sales: Marketing and Merchandising in the Digital Age Presented by Stylesmart Inc. Hosted by Jennifer Phillips. This presentation will cover topics such as how fashion trends affect the industry, what professionals need to know and the steps to leveraging technology in business. ● Sands, Room 102

10 a.m.: Make eBay Your Runway: Learn to Sell on eBay Encore presentation. ● LVCC, Room N262; Sands, Room 106

12 p.m.: How to Stay Motivated: Where Do You See Your Business and Career in Five Years? Encore presentation. ● Sands, Room 102

2 p.m.: RPA’s 2nd Annual Fashion Industry Study Encore presentation. ● Sands, Room 102

3 p.m.: Make eBay Your Runway: Learn to Sell on eBay Encore presentation. ● LVCC, Room N262; Sands, Room 106

4 p.m.: Global Perspective on Fashion Industry Presented by Cherish International. This seminar will discuss the way to improve supply- chain management domestically and globally and the impact and challenge before and after the quota-free era in 2005. This seminar will also cover the world opportunity for U.S. brand manufacturers as well as retailers. ● Sands, Room 102

4 p.m.: Apparel Sourcing: How to Grab Your Share of the U.S. Market Encore presentation. ●

LVCC, Room N243 CORBIS PHOTOS BY Until you can beam your threads across the Internet, there’s FedEx.

Even short lead times are long enough with FedEx Ground and the complete FedEx® transportation portfolio. Your shipments are always on the go every step of the way, from design and development to production. And with product shipment visibility during the delivery process via FedEx InSight,® you know exactly the status of your shipments. Finally, you can offer quick turns, and provide them too. For answers to all your shipping needs give us a call at 1.800.GoFedEx.

Relax, it’s FedEx. SM apparel.fedex.com/04

SECTION II

WWDMAGIC SCENE & MARKET NEWS viva las vegas Our guide to living the life in this city of high stakes.

By Carrie Bell After long days at the convention center, treat yourself to some good old-fashioned Las Vegas-style fun. The city is full of options for eating, drinking and making merry, with the following selections ranking among the city’s top stops.

The white tigers are big attractions at Siegfried & Roy’s Secret Garden and Dolphin Habitat. The strip mall exterior belies the real treats on tap at Cool Place Cuba Café.

ETHNIC EATERIES There may not be a Little Havana neighborhood in Sin City, but that doesn’t mean tasty and authentic Cuban food can’t be found. Don’t let the strip mall exterior and extremely reasonable prices fool you, Cool Place Cuba Café is the real deal. Toe-tapping salsa fills the air, fresh tropical flowers and colorful posters add to the atmosphere, cold Hatuey beer quenches your thirst and the meandering trail of wine corks on the ceiling (actually left by previous occupant, the Jazzed Café) add to the character. But it’s the food that’s the main reason to wander off the Strip. Ropa vieja ($9.95) is a meat stew that gets its name because the shred- ded beef steeping in stock looks like dirty clothes in the wash. Lechon asado ($9.95) is pork roast slow-braised in lime mojo, and bistec de palomilla ($9.95) is a thinly sliced Cuban fried steak. Black beans and rice are served with most entrées, and there’s bread to be had. But save room for the twice-fried green plan- tains ($2.25), flan de coco ($3.95) — a coconut-flecked caramel custard dripping in caramelized sugar — and a cup of café con leche. Cool Place Cuba Café, 2055 East Tropicana Avenue, 702-795- 7070. Open daily, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Thanks to the Crown & Anchor, you don’t need to cross the Pond to find an authentic British pub, hear a sexy accent or, more ANIMAL ATTRACTION important, get a taste of the mother country’s cuisine like Long a Vegas staple, the Siegfried & Roy show has been canceled indefinitely while magician/ bangers and mash ($7.50), Cornish pastie ($7.25), steak and kid- animal trainer Roy Hom recovers from an attack by a white tiger during the show last year. In ney pie ($7.95) or Lancashire hot pot ($7.50), a hearty stew made the meantime, visitors can still enjoy the exotic animals Siegfried & Roy call their co-workers with Guinness stout. Their beer-battered fish and chips ($7.95) at the Secret Garden and Dolphin Habitat. The Garden, a lush, tropical sanctuary modeled are hailed as the best in town and are even better washed down after the animals’ natural environments, houses snow white and striped white tigers, white with one of the 28 draft beers (Bass Ale, Beamish Stout, lions and an Asian elephant. A family of Atlantic bottle-nosed dolphins calls the 2.5-million- Caffrey’s, Cider Jack, John Courage and Warsteiner to name a gallon waterworld — complete with four connected pools, artificial coral reef and sandy few) served by the Crown. Try your hand at Thursday’s Quiz bottom — their home. Admission is $12, but after 3:30 p.m., a ticket to see the playful marine Night in hopes of winning a prepaid tab or swing by for soccer life costs only $6. Siegfried & Roy’s Secret Garden and Dolphin Habitat, The Mirage Hotel and on the telly and live music on weekends. The Crown & Anchor, Casino, 3400 Las Vegas Boulevard South, 702-791-7111. The Garden is open on weekdays, 11 a.m. 1350 East Tropicana Avenue, 702-739-8676. Open 24/7. to 3:30 p.m., and weekends, 10 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. The habitat is open weekdays, 11 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., and weekends, 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Get a taste of Britain while visiting Las Vegas at the Crown & Anchor pub and restaurant.

SPORTY SPICE TO YOUR TRIP Have a ball — literally — at the ESPN Zone, a sports-themed dining and entertainment complex complete with 10,000 square feet of interactive and competitive attractions and games. There’s also live events like the weekly taping of the University of Nevada, Las Vegas, basketball coach’s radio show, a SWEET SOMETHINGS sports memorabilia- After swigging soda at the Coca-Cola Museum next door, get an stocked studio added sugar fix at M&M’s World, a four-story, 26,000-square-foot store and more facility dedicated to the colorful confection. It contains all sorts than 165 TVs airing of M&M paraphernalia, taste stations, the M&M Academy the day’s games (where you can participate in the making of a short film) and and sports news. A the candy in every container style and color imaginable. There’s handful of TVs are Interactive and competitive attractions and games are part of the fun at ESPN Zone. also a 3-D film called “I Lost My M in Vegas,” in which the walking, even in the bathrooms, guaranteeing that not one minute of the action will be missed. Even if talking treats don’t do well at the craps tables. And who says this you don’t got game, come for the greasy, fried, salty, sweet American goodness of signature dishes candyland isn’t also a hotbed of haute couture? They are such as chili cheese fries ($8.99); broiled seasoned steak salad ($12.99); an ESPN burger smoth- currently offering a limited-edition bling-bling bag by Kathrine ered in cheddar cheese, smoked bacon and balsamic onions ($10.99), or the rum carrot cake Baumann in the shape of the sassy green M&M. M&M’s World, ($6.49). ESPN Zone, New York-New York Hotel & Casino, 3570 Las Vegas Boulevard South, 702- 3785 Las Vegas Boulevard South, 702-736-7611. Open Sunday 933-ESPN. Open Sunday, 11 a.m. to 12:30 a.m.; Monday through Thursday., 11:30 a.m. to 12:30 through Thursday, 9 a.m. to 11 p.m., and Friday through a.m.; Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 a.m., and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 1:30 a.m. Saturday, 9 a.m. to midnight. WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004 13

Elemis Spa blends healing Soothe yourself with the exotic techniques and decor from Hawaiian Wave Four Hand Massage. too cool faraway lands like Morocco. for school WWDMAGIC rolls out the red carpet for a few young guns from the class of 2005. It’s never too early to get famous in Los Angeles — just ask the Olsen twins. Following that logic, Otis College of Art and Design is partnering for the first time this year with the MAGIC trade show in Las Vegas to show designs by some 26 students in the junior class who work in the fashion department’s famous mentoring program. Shown on mannequins, 25 to 30 pieces from swimsuits to gowns will be presented in “fashion vignettes” located throughout the event. “We wanted to revisit our relationship with Otis,” said Ernae Mothershed, MAGIC spokeswoman, “and support emerging designers and Otis itself. “We also wanted to give real-life AROUND-THE-WORLD RELAXATION exposure [to the students] in front of Blending healing techniques from Bali, Tibet, Polynesia, Japan, Morocco, Thailand and the United States, and decorated in the bright colors, earthy textiles and furnishings of a faraway port, the 32,000-square-foot Elemis Spa has created a soothing exotic oasis for decompressing and detoxing. A variety of massages, facials, peels and waxing services, as well as nail, makeup and hair care, are available. While they offer the basic reflexology ($99) and seaweed face therapy ($25), the more exotic treatments like the Hawaiian Wave Four Hand Massage ($199), Balinese Boreh Hot Spice Ritual and Well-Being Massage ($200) and Marrakech Ceremony of Sun ($100) are its sensory specialties. If exercising is on the agenda, Elemis offers Pilates, personal trainers and body composition analysis. Elemis Spa, Aladdin Casino & Resort, 3667 Las Vegas Boulevard South, 702-785- 5SPA. Open Sunday through Thursday, 6 a.m. to 7 p.m., and Friday through Saturday, 6 a.m. to 9 p.m.

WET YOUR WHISTLE Midday tea, 20 varieties of champagne and seafood Step under the sea to get under the appetizers are all offered at the Seahorse Lounge. influence at the newest bar Caesars has appetizers are all offered at the Seahorse Lounge. to offer, the Seahorse Lounge. Several design elements, including a 70-foot curved blue mosaic tile bar, a 1,700-gallon aquarium filled with rare Australian potbelly seahorses, a 12-foot mermaid sculpture, a shell-covered alcove and a cascading waterfall, vie for visual attention. While the martinis are strong, it’s the more than 20 varieties of champagne served in half bottles and individual “pops” and a contemporary spin on the midday tea tradition that will keep this watering hole afloat. Be prepared for the slightly bizarre experience of Sketches by a student in the Otis College nibbling on fresh seafood appetizers of Art and Design’s mentoring program. while watching their less edible cousins swim around peacefully. 80,000 industry insiders, many of Seahorse Lounge, Caesars Palace, 3790 whom came out of Otis themselves,” Las Vegas Boulevard South, 702-731- Mothershed added. 7110. Open 24/7. “We are so thrilled to be hooked up with MAGIC again,” said Rosemary Brantley, the head of Otis’ fashion department. Although MAGIC and In addition to complimentary services and information, Otis have enjoyed a relationship hey,good-looking! attendees can buy beauty products at the booth. The space reaching back 20 years, this is the first is tied in with the Chanel counter at Macy’s West at the time that MAGIC’s fashion director Chanel Fragrance & Beauté bows at WWDMAGIC. adjacent Fashion Show Mall, where attendees wanting fur- Denise Scher will choose what she ther pampering or more in-depth consultations can visit. considers to be the most interesting Not all the color is on the fabric at WWDMAGIC this Plans call for beauty products ordered at Chanel’s booth and promising new looks from the stu- year. Armed with a few hues of its own, Chanel to be delivered from stock in the store and readied for dent couturiers. Fragrance & Beauté will strive to highlight the faces of pickup by purchasers. Otis and MAGIC, both based in as many attendees as it can during the week. Some items that Chanel is featuring include Satin de Southern California, have been wait- The brand is hosting a beauty studio at WWDMAGIC, Chanel, a limited-edition cheek highlighting compact, for ing for the right moment to launch this marking the first time a major beauty company has $50; Rectifiance Intense antiage re-texturizing collaboration. “This was a great time,” been represented in such a way at the event — and the cream, 1.7 oz. for $57.50; Anti-Taches dark spot said Mothershed. “This was a great only dedicated space of its kind this year. The 900- corrector, 1 oz. for $75, and Chanel’s Chance fra- time for the school — they have a square-foot Chanel studio, located near the main grance, 3.4 oz. for $75. Lipsticks range in price great group of students — and a great entrance, offers attendees free makeup, skin from $23 to $24.50. time for the industry, which is turning care and fragrance consultations — and Chanel Fragrance & Beauté is no around right now.” makeovers, of course. stranger to beautifying attendees of MAGIC has underwritten deserving “Ready-to-wear and cosmetics go hand in such events. Last September, makeup members of the junior class with a hand,” said Jennifer Larson, retail manager for artists from the brand’s Macy’s Herald $25,000 grant to help pay for fabric Chanel, who oversees the brand’s doors in the Square counter in New York went to and completion of the garments. Las Vegas area. “It’s going to be the perfect oppor- the Industry (212) apparel and acces- Students, working with mentors as tunity to show that marriage.” sories trade show at Manhattan’s diverse as Nike, Ocean Pacific, Several of Chanel’s top Las Vegas-area makeup Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, Cosabella, Ghost, Henry Duarte, artists are scheduled to man the space, which is offering express makeovers at the front Michelle Mason, Rozae Nichols and designed for quick turnover. Eight makeup stations of the hall. “To us, it’s about fun and La Blanca are creating looks that will are intended for one-on-one sessions, and visitors have making you feel better when you leave not only be shown in Las Vegas, but the chance to experiment with products — than you did when you came,” also included in the school’s annual every item, in fact, that Chanel Fragrance & Some of the products on tap at Chanel’s said Larson. fashion show this spring. Beauté markets today — at play stations. Fragrance & Beauté studio at WWDMAGIC. — Matthew W. Evans — Robert Barr 14 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004

SECTION II inWWDMAGIC thVENDORemix SPOTLIGHT Exhibitor numbers are on the rise at WWDMAGIC, with a host of new attendees looking to wow retailers with their varied wares.

By Nola Sarkisian-Miller its high-end Japanese fabrics, clean washes and heavy detailing, said sales representative Gene Las Vegas is no longer the province of casino gam- Zuckerman, who expects the line to pull in $3 million blers alone. in its first year. Placing their bets on the power and draw of one For Gasp owner and private label production the matriarchs of trade shows, WWDMAGIC, new and house Edmund Kim International in Rancho Domin- established clothing vendors are taking their chances guez, Calif., the chance to exhibit its year-old branded at getting a piece of the dream — by winning over label of denim jeans, garment-dyed miniskirts and attending buyers. knit tops in a controlled space such as in•dex levels As the onetime wan apparel market Newcomers such as Citrine hope the playing field at a show known for its ABL Couture hopes to do well at WWDMAGIC with its continues to show signs of vigor, MAGIC vendor grandiosity. promotional materials will denim-driven line. officials report growth in their show increase buyer traffic. “It’s a little intimidating to go categories as well as in first-time atten- against big names — those booths get coats and cotton sateen dresses in flattering tube and dees, with overall exhibitors up 3 per- so impressive, the product gets lost — sheath shapes for spring and silks and brocades for cent compared with August 2003 and 23 but the in•dex venue space really fall will resonate with West Coast buyers. The line percent over last February’s run. allows you to rely on product and helps wholesales from $140 to $240. In step with its rising prominence in the merchandise stand out,” said Steve “We have a complete void in California except for the apparel industry, the contemporary Hagstrom, executive vice president of Nordstrom, so we’d like to build up our specialty busi- group continues to expand at WWD- sales and merchandising for Pacific ness out there,” he said, noting he doesn’t have stars in MAGIC, in both general sections as well Continental Apparel, a subsidiary of his eyes. “I’m not unrealistic — I don’t expect $1 mil- as in the year-old in•dex, drawing EKI, who scouted the show last year. lion in orders — but by being there, people see you higher profile names. To date, the Not content to simply feed the trade and may not order from you the first time, but when show’s contemporary exhibitors are show machine, pull the handle and they see you there the next time, they’ll believe you’re tracking 57 percent over the August run wait for results, these newcomers are a real company. You’re legitimate.” and 67 percent above last February, promoting themselves via postcards to Another growth engine is in the white-hot acces- according to organizers. potential buyers, giveaways and show sories market, which is also benefiting WWDMAGIC. This go-round, the 20 vendors par- discounts. But most vendors know that The accessories category has seen a 20 percent ticipating in in•dex, a cluster of juried preparation and execution still don’t increase since August and a 41 percent upturn in new contemporary vendors all housed in T-shirts are part guarantee show success. vendors since February. similar white booths, include Laundry At New York-based Understood Long Beach, Calif.-based Artex Creative Inter- of Understood by Shelli Segal, Joey and T, Gasp and Clothing, a new line of young contem- national is hoping to ride the craze with its year-old ABL Couture. Clothing’s porary graphics- and message-laced designer-inspired handbags at mass retail pricing. Showcasing its fall collections of offerings. T-shirts, tank tops and work shirts for The polyurethane clutches and totes all borrow sportswear and day and evening dresses, men and women, it’s still hard to shake touches from Louis Vuitton and Chanel — sans the which wholesale from $30 to $170, Los off the shivers. logos — and wholesale from $4 to $14. Now that Artex, Angeles-based Laundry returns to the “We’re doing our homework, but known for private label sourcing of leather and vinyl show after a multiyear absence in hopes we’re still nervous,” said Jane Fan- accessories, including electronics carriers, has tested of building its West Coast and interna- tuzzo, who, with husband and partner the sales waters for its line of bags, it’s ready for the tional business, said Charles Pegram, John Battistini, runs the line, which trade show plunge, seeking out primarily private director of international sales. wholesales from $10 to $15. label retail needs. “We opened our showroom on the Also generating interest is the “We sell handbags, and the one show we have to West Coast two years ago to incredible women’s sportswear and dresses cate- be at is WWDMAGIC. Period. End of story,” said success, and our goal is to build on that, gory, formerly separated into moderate Artex vice president Roger Himmel. “It’s a place to especially with specialty stores, as well and better categories until last August. reach more buyers and get as much exposure as as capitalize on the opportunities abroad, which are Though it’s too early to gauge growth in the sector, possible.” vast,” he said. Laundry already plans to roll out its said officials, the section will host another juried With help from the show, he hopes to double the first international stores in Kuwait and Dubai, United area called thegallery, housing eight vendors at press line’s sales from the high six figures last year. Arab Emirates, in February and March, with plans for time with room for up to 10. On the higher end is handbag exhibitor Donald J a bigger push next year. One vendor in thegallery is New York-based Pliner, showcasing the Italian-made Donald J ABL Couture and Gasp think the trade show arena Citrine, a two-year-old line of updated sportswear Pliner Couture line and the lower-priced, Asian- is a perfect theater for their debuts. Denim-driven and dresses. Citrine is making its first appearance at made Donald J Pliner line. Rosemarie Gallant- ABL, whose parent company, Los Angeles-based Love WWDMAGIC instead of attending L.A. market weeks, Brown, sales manager for the Western region, said Amour, is a longtime exhibitor in the show’s contem- which didn’t meet president Robert Maslin’s traffic the New York-based company took back its license porary section, is a line targeting specialty stores with expectations. Maslin said he thinks Citrine’s stretch last year and has doubled its overall handbag sales in just one year. On display at WWDMAGIC for the couture collection — along with the Friends of Artex bows at Baby Doll Pliner line of dog accessories — will be WWDMAGIC with a leather and satin clutches and totes for spring, as line of bags inspired well as suede in shades of mauve and tomato with by runway favorites. jeweled handles for fall. Wholesale price points for these items will range from $95 to $250. Baguettes and tubular shapes with contrast stitching are among the looks for the secondary line, which wholesales from $46 to $20. “It’s all about getting the exposure and reconnecting with retailers,” said Gallant-Brown. Other growing categories are footwear, which will include BCBG Girls, and outerwear and casual lifestyle, which is drawing Gaiam, Overwear Inc. and Oxygen Fitness Wear. Brazilian-based Oxygen, known for its breathable Supplex-based athletic wear, opened its North American headquarters in Orlando, Fla., six months ago and said its focus is on the trade show circuit to grow its U.S. business. Jean Auge, a partner and vice president of sales and marketing for the firm, said he’s focusing distribution for the line, which wholesales from $15 to $38, on sports stores, gyms and dance studios. “I’ve signed up for over 15 shows this year because we’re looking for the right retailers to carry our niche-oriented product,” Auge said. “It’s a numbers game and if a few of those leads pan out, it will be worth it.” B L A C K

MAGIC Booth YC51227 16 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004

SECTION II

WWDMAGIC ACCESSORIES extra efforts Fun and funky they may be, but accessories firms are growing sales by getting down to business.

By Holly Haber maker based in Gloversville, N.Y. “We have repositioned all of our marketing to one message that is all about the Grandoe logo. Coming off exceptional shows in January, accessories People seem to be responding well. With the return of luxury companies are confident that 2004 is going to be a very and the influence of a younger demographic who has money good year. The abundance of color has sparked sales, and is willing to spend, that combines to give us a good busi- aided by plenty of play in the media. ness outlook.” But growing a business by double-digit leaps takes Grandoe’s line wholesales from $15 to $60. more than styling a pretty product. Taking a cue from fashion industry heavyweights, accessories firms are pushing to ● LONGER LINES: Making retailers happy by producing cus- build brand recognition, extend their product lines and tom products or tweaking design is the name of the game. capitalize on trends. Here, a look at what’s working. Judy Jansen, who creates J. Jansen Design’s bold, artistic semiprecious jewelry, has styled smaller and medium-size ● MAKING THE BRAND: Revamping logos, advertising pieces in response to demand. and marketing materials is emerging as an effective “I want to cover every avenue possible so I can work way to bolster brand image and, ultimately, sales. with the stores, not against them,” Jansen said. Lauren G Adams of Hollywood, Fla., has over- At WWDMAGIC, the artist will introduce belts hauled its entire presentation — from the logo made with blowtorched metals accented with to the packaging, labels, banners and a custom semiprecious stones. They wholesale from $80 to booth for shows. Armed with the new color- $165, while jewelry runs from $20 to $135. blocked logo, the firm is placing bigger ads. Timmy Woods, a Beverly Hills, Calif., designer “Our [graphics] designer is Italian, and he known for novelty handbags, has developed a gives us the twist we need,” said Orly Ovadia, new category of licensed college-logo bags. “The designer and partner in the company, which makes universities asked me to do this,” said Woods, noting fashion jewelry and watches that resemble that the bags wholesale for $125. “It’s interesting that fine jewelry. Betman’s wool felt hat their alumni are requesting better products.” The tactic is paying off. Lauren G Adams with rhinestone beading. Miss Mara’s silk satin clutch Elissa Bloom has added a travel collection did $3 million in sales last year, up $750,000 with black cotton velvet bow. of totes, luggage tags and passport holders for over 2002. “With the brand labeling, we hope to fall in response to feedback from stores. “It is double our sales this year,” Ovadia noted. much more sophisticated, not beaded but appliquéd and She’s also scouting for the location of her embroidered,” said the New York designer, first store and hopes to open it late this year in whose signature bags are beaded Santa Monica, Calif. “We’re talking about a Silk and with girlie faces. Wholesale retail chain,” she said. “The whole concept is feather bag prices range from $8 to $59. geared to younger customers.” The line by Mother ● wholesales from $5 to $85. Plucker TREND TRACKERS: Seasonal Another way to get attention is through the Feather Co. Whispers, a fashion jewelry firm media. Mary Frances, a Lafayette, Calif., com- based in New York, exploits pany known for whimsical beaded and trends by offering hundreds of embroidered handbags, hired publicist styles. Its current big push is long Loving & Co. to get exposure. So far the crystal earrings in fanciful color bags have landed in the hands of combinations, such as orange, fuchsia Jessica Simpson and in goodie bags and green, or bright red, hot pink and for the American Music light pink. Awards last November. “Whatever is hot, we do,” said “The p.r. firm will be designer Yafit Goldfarb. “If hair is really doing a lot to push TV and hot, we will come up with a whole hair pro- movie stars carrying the gram. Now you have earrings, and I tell the bags,” said Margo Bryan, stores to buy a lot of earrings.” of Margo’s Collectibles, Driven by color and novelty, Mary Frances’ Dallas business has been so strong that sales representative. Goldfarb thinks the company this “These bags are year may match the 30 unique — each one has a percent revenue in- personality — and people crease it logged in collect them,” Bryan said. J. Renee’s plastic mule. 2003. Wholesale prices Carolyn Miller, general manager span from $12 to $120 and of Mary Frances, said sales for average $30. the line nearly doubled last year. The bags wholesale from $50 to $145. “I think we are seeing fashion come alive Shannon Diego, which specializes in sterling and semiprecious again and [be] more individualistic instead of having to look to your jewelry wholesaling from $15 to $400, hopes to make itself more neighbor for acceptance,” reflected Woods. One of her more fanciful Latico memorable and recognizable through its symbol, a dove. creations is a pale gold satin bag with dangling pearls. “The dove is on everything, either stamped or as a charm, so Leathers’ “When you walk, they move with you,” she said. “It’s more fun, that when retailers and consumers see it, they can say, ‘That is leather like, let’s dance.” Shannon Diego,’ ” said Tami Mabry, sales manager of the perforated Lauren G Hansen has jumped on the new jean jewelry trend Southlake, Tex., company. “We also did a bit of retail advertising bag. with a collection geared to young customers. Base metal chains in December with Marshall Field’s in In Style maga- dangle colorful pavé crystal charms, such as a lady- zine, which was great.” bug or a dragonfly with abalone and pavé wings. The company, which is also participating in more They can be attached to belt loops or handbags. trade shows, expects sales to grow at least 30 to 40 “Our collection is getting younger and percent this year, Mabry said. younger,” Ovadia said. “The jean jewelry has big, Fashion handbag firm Hobo International in glamorous charms with big [cubic zirconias] and Annapolis, Md., last fall began handing out promo- beautiful pieces that you might not see [else- tional postcards and fortune cookies related to its where].” The pieces wholesale from $7 to $15. bags that retailers can give to shoppers. The firm also “Like everybody else, we are doing color, color, printed its first color buyers’ catalogue and launched color, and it’s been unbelievably successful,” said a Web site for its leather bags, which wholesale from Ray of Hobo International. “It has set my business $39 to $89. on fire. My January show business was up 65 per- “We are working on our image,” said owner Toni Ray. cent, and now we are looking for good things at “Our catalogue is quite glorious, and it’s designed to work MAGIC. Accessories are more fun than they have well for the retailer. We are also working with the stores ever been and are more diversified. And since they to be sure they are thinking collection and display.” are in more colors, you need them more often than Grandoe sees “a lot of opportunity for 2004,” said that classic old black bag. That has really helped Mark Hogan, vice president of the century-old glove increase market share.”

18 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004

SECTION II

WWDMAGIC FOOTWEAR best foot forward At WWDMAGIC, shoemakers hope to get their foot in the door with boutiques.

By Wayne Niemi At this season’s WWDMAGIC, buyers are looking down. According to research data provided by MAGIC International, which organizes WWDMAGIC, more than 25,000 registered attendees have indicated they will be shopping specifically for shoes this week at the show. “More and more [merchants] are looking to pick up footwear because they see it as something new to try for their stores,” said Sandy Hayakawa, vice president of sales for Woodland Hills, Calif.-based MAGIC International. “They are seeing success in having it, and it helps to create a point of differ- Leather slide, left, and entiation from their competitors.” patent leather slide, Not surprisingly, footwear wholesalers are also flocking to WWDMAGIC in both for Dr. Scholl’s. hopes of tapping the fashion boutique channel. Hayakawa said more than 110 shoe vendors representing 200 brands are exhibiting this week, up 50 percent compared with a year ago. One vendor returning for a second season, Claire Lindsay, president of Colorado Springs, Colo.-based Tsonga, said she scored significant new accounts during the August marketplace. “We’ve really found that boutiques are catching on because of the colors that we use and our different designs,” she said. “Last August was our first time there, and we opened about 25 new accounts.” This season, Lindsay said she will be showing a variety of fleece-lined sheepskin boots in different colors and adorned with embroidery. Additionally, she said, “We’re focusing on doing some multicolored product so that you can wear it with three or four different outfits.” The sheepskin styles are expected to retail for $60 to $120. Steve Ash, president of Carson, Calif.-based Volatile, said boutiques represent a greater opportunity for sales since their businesses appear to be growing faster than traditional shoe stores. “There has been a shift in the marketplace, so it makes sense to grow one’s business with boutiques and clothing stores that carry footwear as an accessory,” he said. Ash will also be showing sheepskin boots, as well as shoes with bright colors and textured leather finishes. For Farmingdale, N.Y.-based comfort vendor Naot/Yaleet Footwear, WWDMAGIC is an opportunity to sell two seasons at once, according to president Steven Lax. “The smaller boutiques will buy very close to season, so we’ll be showing our spring shoes, too,” he said. “Then we’ll be getting our preseason buys and our pre- JP Original’s leather ballet shoe with satin sash. views for the coming fall.” Lax said his fall line includes shoes in soft pastel colors as well as eclectic patterns based on African and American Indian motifs. The shoes are expected to retail from $80 to $200. Young fashion brand Skechers, Manhattan Beach, Calif., plans for the first time to show both shoes and apparel under its Somethin’ Else line, according to John Ruggeri, national sales manager. Ruggeri said the footwear line consists of different interpretations of dressier, sexier looks, as well as a variety of heel heights. “The primary goal right now is to create a Somethin’ Else head-to-toe message,” he said. “I think that having footwear, jeans and tops will do that, so we’re very optimistic.” Products in the footwear line will retail from $29 to $49, Ruggeri said, although he added dressier styles and boots for fall may retail at higher price points. Leather flats For Seychelles’ BC Footwear business, which is by Seychelles. skewed toward younger consumers, Danny Silvera, who handles marketing for the Gardena, Calif.-based company, said it is introducing Undefeated, a sneaker line that features unconstructed athletic styling with an urban flair, which will retail for $30 to $50. Seychelles will also be showing dressier, more sophisticated styles with higher heels for fall, according to Silvera. “Fashion continues to go more toward a feminine direction,” he said. “The line between casual and dressy is becoming more blurred, and you see a lot of girls mixing the two trends together.” The line will be priced at $60 to $140, retail. Cotton sneaker by BC Footwear. SAS, the leader in business intelligence software, and Marketmax, the leader in merchandise planning, announce…

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SECTION II

WWDMAGIC JUNIOR ACCESSORIES

Metal and plastic bracelets by Cellular Bracelet. keeping up with business Tuning into trends is just the initial step in establishing a healthy junior accessories business in this fickle market.

Fad Treasures’ plastic By Kavita Daswani pearl necklace and After a couple of years spent languishing in the doldrums, the plastic bangles. junior accessories market seems to be on a long-awaited upswing. As the U.S. economy regains its foothold, people are out shopping again, retailers are replenishing their stock and vendors are feeling upbeat. Even so, most junior accessories makers still consider this market a tough one to crack. After all, it’s the teen consumer they are seeking to tickle. And she is a fickle shopper that knows what she wants, and moves on to the next big trend before the last one is over. So how are junior accessories makers keeping up in this catch-me-if-you-can, cat-and-mouse game? While some stress the importance of coming out with new collections at breakneck speed, others focus their energies on finding that one important trend and quickly latching onto it — even if it’s old news midway into the season. Still other companies focus on the potentially lucrative arena of licensing — everything from Disney figures to pop-culture icons. Here, a look at what’s working in the junior accessories sector.

● STYLE WARS: In the junior accessories category, the appearance of exclusivity is what it’s all about — and the key to that is to bring out the trendiest merchandise possible and get it into the hands of consumers before the imitators do. “Attractive styling alone no longer cuts it, as retailers can jump on a trend faster than the originating company can place a second order,” said Stephen Holt, founder and president of New York-based Yak Pak, a maker of bags and accessories, which saw a jump in business of about 20 percent in 2003, and anticipates slightly higher than that for 2004. “A company first and foremost needs an offering with a great brand name,” explained Holt, “and then better be able to support that offering with strong styling, attractive pricing and the ability to deliver quickly and at very high quality so that the retailer is not plagued with after-sale returns.” Matthew Katzenson, co-owner of Los Angeles-based Fine Lines Co., which represents bag maker Loop NYC, said the allure of the new is integral to his company. “We do 12 to 15 releases a year, so there is always something new to buy.” Katzenson described the line as “groovy and funky.” Upcoming deliveries will include bags with such quirky touches as plastic appliquéd butterflies and prints of the Last Supper with the tag line “The Original Boy Band” underneath. Music is also a major trend for spring and summer, which will be translated into guitar-motif bags and lip (think Mick Jagger) coin purses. “These are products that are designed to make an impact,” he said. And the strategy seems to be working. “Our business has tripled in the last year,” said Katzenson. Loop NYC is a division of New York-based TriCoastal, which manufactures and distributes everything from stationery to gifts and accessories. But Katzenson said the “junior accessories market is the fastest- growing portion of our business.” For 2003, Loop NYC registered a 132 percent growth over 2002 for the Southwest market, which includes California, Arizona, New Mexico, Hawaii and Nevada. Wholesale prices range from $4.50 for a little coin purse to $75 for an embroidered suede bag, but Katzenson said the majority of items are “priced really aggressively.” “The consumer is price-conscious and she likes value,” he explained. “She likes the fact that she can buy a great bag and not spend a lot of money.”

● FEELING THE HEAT: Staying ahead of the trends is not always the top priority for every company. For some, capitalizing on a flash-in-the-pan trend is not all bad — especially if it captures the fascination of a huge number of people, if only for a while. WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004 21

Western Fashion’s bronze belt.

Dinah Beveridge, marketing manager at beauty company the distribution of those products,” Jerome Russell in Los Angeles, remembers when every said Holt, adding that wholesale teenage girl had to have a pot of glitter in her makeup case. prices for the range will run from “We were selling two million pots every two weeks,” she said, adding $3.50 to $12. that the trend died when everybody started doing it. Although Yak Pak has been Her prediction for the next hot thing: fabulous eyelashes speckled with making bags for MTV for the rhinestones or made from miniature feathers or that glow in the dark, past two years, the newest with wholesale prices at around $5. offerings will reflect a much “These are not regular false lashes,” she said. “We are putting out 12 more fashion-forward sensibility. new styles, and we think that’s what’s really hot right now. We’ve been sell- The MTV logo is used subtly on ing lashes for 15 years, but this is the year that they are really fashionable.” the accessories, colors are The figures are backing up this statement. In the first three months of bright and fun and, said Holt, the year, business was up 20 percent, and Beveridge expects wearers “look as though they the growth to continue. could have gotten it at the MTV “Things are looking up and major retailers are Beach House, at a party or on a putting in bigger orders,” she said. “It’s a big set. Part of the fun of the bags is change from 2001 and 2002.” they look like they may have been Beveridge anticipates that lashes will received as an insider at some MTV remain a core part of the business, function.” although the embellished version “is Other companies involved in licensing probably a trend that will come and go, say that putting a well-known figure on a product like all trends.” OK Originals’ silver hoop can often result in drawing in a whole new earrings with plastic beads. client base. ● LICENSED OPERATORS: Licensing “The great thing with licensed products is will continue to be a major area of that it can appeal to an older girl and a very young one, too,” said Vali growth, especially as marginal or Glytsis, marketing manager of High IntenCity Corp., a Wyckoff, N.J., developing brands face a maker of jewelry and charms. Her company has just launched Hello tough sell-in period in Kitty charms that, in addition to the Disney ones they already pro- 2004, predicted Yak duce, are proving very attractive to trendy young girls. Pak’s Holt. “This is more than just a fleeting trend,” she said. “Big licensing “The reaction to brands are always on the lookout to get their products out there.” this is going to be a The charms, which sell for between $1 and $2 at wholesale, can be scramble on the part of hooked onto necklaces, bracelets and backpacks. The new Hello Kitty accessories companies to line will feature the world-famous feline doing everything from playing find major brands to license soccer to dressing as a princess and showering with a rubber ducky. And, that appeal to the distribution given that the Hello Kitty phenomenon has been holding sway for a few years they are targeting,” he said. already, Glytsis said she is not worried that this will be yet another passing fancy. For Yak Pak, growth is expected “Adding these new characters helps keep our customers loyal,” she said. “We from a new line of MTV bags that the get approached for licenses all the time, but we believe in depth and not breadth. We company is just about to debut; the range want to be selective about it.” includes young, fashionable bags for high tech gizmos like iPods, MP3 players and Even so, Glytsis agreed that timeliness is of the essence. Her company manufac- video game equipment. tured charms to coincide with the release last year of “Finding Nemo,” and she said “These will relate well to the MTV name and the demographic most important to Mickey and Minnie Mouse and the princesses never seem to go out of style. 22 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004

SECTION II

WWDMAGIC JUNIOR/YOUNG CONTEMPORARY

Polyester jacket by hype,hype,hurray ! Nubile for Solo Girl. The teen sector may be going strong, but getting a brand on the lips of young trendsetters remains crucial to business success.

By Sarah Jenks Cotton print In late 2003, junior and young contemporary vendors had reason to worry. Tech top by gadgets were as hot as Justin Timberlake, and, according to Trendwatch pane- top by lists in Teenage Research Unlimited’s December newsletter, the iPod was the Topsy most coveted gift for the holiday season. Vendors’ fears: that teens were Turvy through spending their disposable bucks on their even more disposable USA. wardrobes. But with more recent news that the economy is on the mend, most junior and young contemporary vendors are no longer worried about the ability of the apparel market to woo the littlest of big spenders. Chris Griffon, president of Los Angeles-based apparel maker Chica, said, “We are not seeing kids rushing out to stores and spending $300 on iPods and giving up on clothing. Not in the malls or in the focus groups.” But go on any search engine and type in teen fashion and you will find more than one million hits, which begins to get at the heart of why this market remains a tricky gamble. With so many vendors looking to target a specific group — and one with rapidly evolving tastes, no less — how do they break into the scene, hold an edge and even make a pronounced splash? For most junior and young contemporary vendors at WWDMAGIC, the answer to that question lies in becoming the talk of the teen world and then rolling out the product to back up the hype.

● HIGH VISIBILITY: Getting your name out there is huge. To attract a teen and get her to plunk her money down faster than she can earn it, the teen needs to have seen the company’s name, heard of it or borrowed something with the name on it. So companies are trying to make sure they are vis- ible in all the media available, from films to TV shows, magazines and online sites. Chica has stumbled onto this in a big way. In 2003, the company saw a surge of celebrities wearing its clothes, which translated PJ Salvage’s to free publicity. Beyoncé cotton top Knowles wears Chica pieces and bottoms. on a regular basis, as does George Lopez’s daughter on TV’s “George Lopez.” Another freebie promo occurred in the recent hit “Freaky Friday,” when the daughter (Lindsay budget in hopes of getting the company’s name into even more Lohan) was costumed in a publications, said James Garvey, national sales representative. Chica shirt. “These kinds of people wearing our ● THE GREAT GIVEAWAY: Free! This four-letter word is music to clothes really gets our name a teen’s ears. A lot of companies are trying out this marketing out there,” said Chica’s Griffon. strategy, giving products away so teens will see the company’s Chica clothing is also on view at name and get a feel for what it has to offer. the beginning of an ad featuring Chica gives away T-shirts and stickers at concerts and street fairs. Patricia Lopez, a popular VJ for LATV, a “If there is a concert, we will go right up in the front and give away our young, edgy Latin American music video chan- stuff and give out surveys to the teens. It really makes a difference, and they go nel. “This is broadcast into six million homes a home saying, ‘Look, I got this cool, free shirt and I like it,’” said Griffon. day,” explained Griffon, “and she is wearing our Chica also contributed tank tops in gift bags this year at the Latin Grammys and stuff. It has been wonderfully successful.” the MTV Video Music Awards. Licensing is another way to get your name Surf specialist Miken, another Los Angeles-based company, also takes this out there, and Chica has hit on this as well. approach when concerts come to town. “There is an upcoming Britney Spears “Our licensees have had strong responses concert, and we will park our company van out front and give away T-shirts and in their first showings so far, and this is stickers,” said Mike Bobbitt, owner and president. fueling our business,” said Griffon. Chica For stores that have just started carrying their line, Miken will give out gift bags Fifi Sport’s embroidered acrylic sweatsuit. started with Ts and has since licensed out with purchases or duffel bags and backpacks with the company’s logo on it. Miken socks and underwear to complement the wholesales for $7.50 to $40. tops. Griffon expects spring bookings to be up about 10 percent over the same period last year, and added, “Our back-to-school should also be strong as we will ride our ● GETTING FOCUSED: Even with all this glitz and glam, in the end it’s all about momentum from spring.” the product and the cost. Good quality backed by low prices will also sell a name Chica’s biggest b-t-s item will be bottoms, which are new to the line. Denim and to a teen whose budget stretches only as far as her allowance. cargo bottoms are being designed to go with their tops, socks and underwear. By Miken has really grabbed hold of this idea. “We have narrowed our focus to doing this, Chica will become a company offering a complete selection of product. what works — casual knit tops and bottoms,” said Bobbitt. “We know our customer Wholesale prices for the company’s products are from $7 to $18. and what they want. We know what we are selling. We have good quality that is not Another hot way to show off your name is through magazines or on the Internet. too expensive. We are able to produce faster because we buy a lot of our fabrics Teen subscriptions accounted for nearly one-third of all magazine subscriptions in domestically. Therefore, our prices stay low.” 2003, according to a recent consumer survey. And with nearly every teen being In 2003, Miken doubled its business, making $40 million, and expects to see con- cyber-literate, the Internet is also a choice area. New York-based Blue Plate has tinued growth in 2004. been able to take advantage of both these mediums. “Teen People, Cosmopolitan New to the scene, New York-based Hi Gorgeous has created a fabric it hopes will and Lucky are constantly borrowing our clothes for their models,” said designer dazzle the teen market. Steven Zellman, owner and creator, spent three years per- Seema Anand. In response, Blue Plate created a Web site for its wares. “The teens fecting this fabric — leather or suede bonded with lycra. “People get so excited are seeing this stuff in the magazines and then hopping onto our Web site,” about its stretch when they see it,” Zellman said. “We tried it out on QVC a couple explained Anand. “We are getting tons of hits.” months back and it was huge. We sold 45,000 units in 13 hours.” Zellman is projecting Hot Sauce, an L.A. company that focuses on contemporary tops and bottoms, has $15 million to $18 million in sales figures for 2004 for this product alone. Wholesale also managed to get some outfits in Lucky. This year, the company will expand its p.r. prices are $49 to $129.

24 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004

SECTION II

WWDMAGIC IND. EX the new crew The contemporary category at WWDMAGIC welcomes a handful of up-and-coming vendors to in•dex.

By Julee Greenberg Creme Royall’s Leather jacket and Thanks to an economy on the mend and the constant cotton denim skirt by Joey and T. need for new resources, in•dex vendors at this sea- jacket. son’s show have a lot to look forward to. They may not have the budget for an aggressive ad campaign or the manpower to churn out line exten- sions, but these contemporary sportswear companies are on the right track to becoming front-runners in the category.

● KICKING BACK: Take Major De*lema, a Los Angeles- based line that prides itself on providing retailers with clothes based on California’s leisurely image. “This line is inspired by a laid-back lifestyle,” said Cu Tran, owner and designer of the five-year-old brand. “But our emphasis on the details is what makes this line special in the market.” Tran said that although this label has only been in business since 1999, he has been in the private label business since the early Nineties. Although he declined to discuss the sales volume for Major De*lema, Tran said he believes the line is doing well because of the appeal of leisurewear and his take on it. “I think that since Sept. 11 there has been that whole nesting trend happening, where people would rather be at home a lot of the time,” he said. “With clothes like these, a woman can wear them and look good in or out of the house.”

Femme Arsenal’s polyester and cotton jacket and cotton and spandex tank.

While the Major De*lema collection consists heavily skirt. The line wholesales between $18 and $98. of tops, the line is sectioned into themes, such as Cohen said her target customer is a woman between Geisha, which has Japanese-inspired prints designed the ages of 20 and 40 who wants the look of by Tran. activewear with a contemporary fit. “At MAGIC, we will have Tomboy and Addict “Women in L.A., especially, are in their cars all themes,” he said. “Being in the private label business day; they are traveling regularly,” she said. “These for so long, I really wanted to create something that clothes travel well and they have the feeling of reflected me and my visions as an artist.” sweats, but look put together.” The Major De*lema collection wholesales from $22 for a tank top to $89 for a sweater. Tran said ● NOVEL OFFERINGS: Also fairly new to the market although he’s concentrating on building his specialty is Bellum, a New York-based contemporary firm that store business, he does have plans to extend the has been in business for about two years. brand to include accessories, denim and outerwear. According to Natan Teklemarima, sales manager As far as marketing goes, Tran said his first step in of the brand, although the label is contemporary, it is marketing the product is the company’s move into its not a line driven by trends, but by the company’s own showroom, which it just made late last month. signature prints and embroideries placed on silk chiffon skirts, sweaters, jackets and tops. ● IN SHAPE: Another leisurewear line is the Los While the company is still new, Teklemarima said Angeles-based 7 Slade. This line was developed he is already planning on some marketing strategies about two years ago with the active woman in mind, to begin the fall and holiday season. said Deborah Cohen, co-owner. “We are now negotiating with a couple of public “These clothes fit really well and are made with relations firms,” he said. “That should get us started some of the softest fabrics, like silk and rayon,” she with marketing the brand, something we haven’t explained. “They are made so a woman can go to done yet.” work and to the gym, and easily just throw these Other than that, Teklemarima said he has been clothes on afterward and still look great and put lucky with business, thus far. together.” “As long as we stay consistent with our fit and Cohen said the line first started with the basics — quality, the stores will come back to order,” he said. T-shirts and tanks — but now includes pants and “At least that’s what is happening already.” skirts in kitschy prints such as the sushi-printed The Bellum line wholesales between $40 to $120. WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004 25

SECTION II

WWDMAGIC THE EDGE

Splitfire’s plastic fringe benefits sunglasses. Vendors with insider know-how continue to be at an Wildthings’ leather bag with advantage in this increasingly competitive sector. beading and silver metal chain.

By Kavita Daswani and people are excited again. It’s not nearly as dreary as it seemed this time last year.” Makers of edgy streetwear continue to proliferate, seeking out their share of a market It helps that her company’s repertoire — Eighties-style fishnets in bright colors, that can’t seem to get enough of avant-garde and even somewhat subversive fashion. neon athletic meshes and prints that include “skulls and chaos” — are all the rage But the difference between a company that thinks it knows its market and one among a specific category of shoppers. that really knows it lies in the experience of the person running the show. For “I was into Southern rock, and my husband [and partner, Magnus Walker], who many, that experience is not just about being able to run a business; instead, it’s is English, has always been into the metal music scene. So we make the things that about living the lifestyle, wearing the clothes, playing the music and going to the we would like to buy, for a culture that we can identify with. Our customer is not clubs. And for those who have a vested interest in really understanding their cus- buying from some big garment guy, but from someone who goes out and sees the tomers, the results are clear in the bottom line. rock shows, and is still part of that scene.”

● THE INSIDE TRACK: “I’m covered all over with tattoos and I’ve always been into hot rods,” said Jon Nelson, owner of Studio City, Calif.-based Merch Monster Inc. For years, he promoted small bands with cult followings. So when he decided to do his own line of T-shirts, it caught on almost instantly. “We’re all trying to bring back something,” said Nelson of the funky Ts, which wholesale from $8 to $9. “But you have to know what you’re selling.” The collection of printed T-shirts with motifs like hot rods and tattoo art is selling well; in the first month of this ALLIANCE DESIGNERS year, the company racked up some $12,000 in sales, which is significantly up from the $7,000 it did this time last year. Overall, by the end of 2004, Nelson expects a 200 percent increase in turnover.

● BAND AIDS: Knowing the bands involved in the culture has proved especially lucrative to some businesses. Serious Inc., based in Los Angeles, is being approached by musi- cians to create either entire clothing lines or wardrobes for tours. Co-owner Karen Caid, who professes a life- long interest in “dirty Southern rock,” said she has designed wardrobes for the likes of Alice Cooper and Sheryl Crowe and their band members, and is now in discussion with punk group AFI to create a signature clothing line. “We’re doing more business right now than in 2003,” she said. “Boutiques are back on an upswing,

Uzi’s cotton T-shirt and polyester jumper.jumper. 26 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004

SECTION II

Retailers all cite colorful, retro-inspired WWDMAGIC RETAIL REVIEW Ts as one of the big items they shopping for saleswill be looking for. Retailers are coming to WWDMAGIC with healthy open-to-buys, but what they are looking for continues to revolve around the good ol’ basics.

By Kristin Young raw edges, O-rings on halter tops and the color yellow in shades from butter to bright lemon are shaping up to be Retailers heading to WWDMAGIC have three things on the newest looks at the show. “I’m seeing trends still in their shopping lists: T-shirts, denim and color. So said the Sixties, Seventies and Eighties,” she said of many, who were dusting off their walking shoes and pack- exhibitors, adding that silk blouson tops and denim are ing their pens for the biannual trade show to be held this still driving the junior, young contemporary and contem- week at the Sands Expo & Convention Center in Las Vegas. porary markets. Trish Moreno, owner of the Trendsyndicate Market Though a majority of buyers interviewed character- Report based in Los Angeles, said Bermuda shorts with ized the economy as strong and plan to come to the show

with healthy open-to-buys, most weren’t about to pin their hopes on trends not yet established as this year’s cargo pants or peasant blouse. As a result, they plan to fall back on the casual styles women appear to be wearing every day, even to work. “We’re still focusing on good T-shirts, good denim and colorful, sexy tops,” said Lisa Kline, owner of her namesake contemporary boutique in Los Angeles, commenting that men’s wear vendors are showing more fashion newness than their female-oriented counterparts. Still, she plans to spend several days at WWDMAGIC scouting for new labels. “You never know what you’re going to find,” she said. “If I find one new line, then I’m into it.” Kline has had the wind at her back, notching a 90 percent Aurora Coat increase in sales over last year due to her boutique’s expansion. “We’re still doing minis and tons of color, like turquoise, fuchsia, yellow and green,” she said. “But is there anything I’m dying over? No.” In October, Kline started commissioning vendors to produce styles she believed would be good money- makers. “I’ll go and make my own at this point,” she said. Fraser Ross, owner of West Hollywood, Calif.-based Kitson, said he is equally frustrated with the lack of fashion trends, even more so because he has an increased open-to-buy buoyed by double-digit sales gains year over year. He said he will pick up inexpensive T-shirts to mix NATURAL. AUTHENTIC. WOOLRICH. with his higher-priced designer duds, hip-hop fashions and accessories. “Fashion is dead,” he said. “Women live in sweats, skirts and tops, yes, but there’s a lot of room for vendors to come up with something really creative.” The show also unwittingly provides Ross with a tutorial on what not to buy, he added. “It’s the best place to see what collection is being knocked off and what is saturating the market.” Kathy Shawver, a buyer at Belle Gray in Sherman Oaks, Calif., said she’s heading to WWDMAGIC to pick up trendy T-shirts and knickknacks that will mesh well with the store’s basic items like denim. “We sell a tremendous amount of T-shirts and tank tops,” she said, noting her contemporary customers favor brightly colored T-shirts layered on top of one another. “It’s all Visit us at the MAGIC Show at Booth #CA7206 to review the entire Fall 2004 line. about color, graphics or words.” The store has been racking up double-digit gains in sales WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004 27

Denim continues to be on retailers’ wish lists. thanks to appearances by owner-actress Lisa Rinna on “Oprah” Snow Country Clothing in Billings, Mont., said her misses’ customer and studio services pulling fashion for movies and TV shows. has been responding well to cropped pants, skirts and jackets in Still, Shawver said the pressure is on to find the hot new thing. mango and kiwi. But the majority are still asking for comfortable “We’re all racing to find it,” she said. “You want to see what’s clothing they can wear to the office. “They want to look sharp but going on at THE edge and urban areas. It’s a great overview for feel like they have their pajamas on,” she said, noting a black matte what’s happening in fashion.” jersey dress with simple lines that can be paired with a bouclé Marty Bebout, owner of three Blue Bee stores in Santa Barbara, sweater is an example of what customers want. Moreover, the pieces Calif., said it’s difficult to find contemporary lines that aren’t over- have to be washable. distributed. But it’s possible, he said. “We don’t always find a lot,” he Though her sales have increased 20 percent this year, Johnson conceded, “but we will find one or two lines that make it all worth it.” said she will remain cautious with her buys. “When we opened in Armed with a healthy open-to-buy from a business that’s been 1996, I had more freedom to experiment,” she said. “My customers doubling sales every year since the stores opened more than three are much more relaxed than they were two years ago, but if the years ago, Bebout said he will pick up corduroy jeans, denim jeans, market goes down, we experience a dip in our sales, and if it goes long-sleeved T-shirts and jackets for fall. He plans to stick with up, our sales will go up.” “really intense bright colors” even beyond the summer months, but Johnson said she has to work harder at clinching the deal with will incorporate jewel tones as well. “It’s all about comfort and customers. “They want something that they will wear for 10 years,” being very casual,” he said. she said. “Even though they’ll be back next year, we have to make Jason Solomon, owner of young contemporary Need Supply them feel good about what they’ve purchased. We do a lot of talking Company in Richmond, Va., plans to snap up skirts, scout a new direc- on how things mix and match.” tion in the women’s pants business and search for blouses with perhaps a wider neckline or band at the midriff. “We’re trying to find those items with a little more sub- stance,” he said. “It seems the shorter skirts are in with lots of layers, ruffles, bright colors and printing details — very feminine. And the pants category has not been a strong class for us lately, so we’ll probably bring in something new, like cropped pants.” Elements of style Although two malls entered the Richmond market this year, causing the store’s sales to - remain relatively flat — increasing between 5 and 10 percent — Solomon is coming to the show with his confidence high. “We’re Wl very excited with the con- From the marriage of science and style sumer’s response to spring and W ool we’re going to match it with a lot of enthusiasm to chase new come exciting innovations from the makers brands and new looks,” he said. Rachel Strules, owner of jun- of GORE-TEX® fabric— Wool, Cotton, ior and contemporary boutique Sweet Lady Jane in Burlington, Vt., said she generally ends up Denim and Liners. finding enough new vendors at the show to keep her store filled Ct These elements give designers and for several years. “I need a new Cotton jean line and I’m looking for colorful handbags and shoes,” manufacturers new options for creating she said, noting consumers are demanding more washes in fashions that stand up to the demanding denim and asking for baby blue, turquoise and pink bags. “I have tastes of today’s fashion-focused a whole shelf of black bags and no one is even looking at them.” Strules said business is better Dn customers—as well as the demanding now than it has been in years. Over the holidays, sales jumped Denim elements of wind, rain, and cold. 30 percent compared with last year. “It seems that people are doing pretty well,” she said. “In years past, they would be wearing big down coats and Part chemistry, part alchemy, part mystery, boots, but this year they’re wearing Von Dutch baseball hats and Gucci purses. No one seems to use these building blocks in your formula for question the prices. That’s a really good sign.” success this season and beyond. Other retailers are still sounding a cautious note. Sharon Sanford, owner of Sha Boutique in Sherman Oaks, Calif., said she’ll remain careful For more information please call: with her buys, though the contemporary and young contempo- 1-800-431-GORE x62618 rary store is already turning a profit since opening two months Ln ago. She is scouting for anything forest green, orange or fuchsia Liners in the form of tube tops, off-the- shoulder tops and layered T-shirts. “Consumers are still a little bit cautious,” she explained. “I will try to keep my price points as low as possible but still keep the quality up. I find that a T-shirt has to have tons of embellishment or prints. You’ve got to give them something for their money.” Denice Johnson, owner of GORE, GORE-TEX, Guaranteed To Keep You Dry and designs are registered trademarks of W. L. Gore & Associates, Inc ©2004 W. L. Gore & Associates, Inc., 1-800-431-GORE, gore-tex.com 28 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004

SECTION II WWDMAGICridingCONTEMPORARY the rave The contemporary sector looks to capitalize on recent retail momentum by staying current.

By Georgia Lee led the way into a bustling January. Multicolored Loulou’s white While retailers aren’t throwing caution polyester chiffon rayon and With signs of the economy picking up, to the wind, early fall bookings show that blouse by Love spandex top contemporary manufacturers at WWD- they may be loosening up from seasons Amour. with grommet MAGIC will hit the ground running. past. Buoyed by recent indications, man- and crystal Coming off a strong holiday season ufacturers project bigger sales increases detail. and start to the new year, companies are for 2004. in expansion mode. They are set to Jodi International Ltd., based in launch new product to tap into new mar- Toronto, projects 40 percent growth kets. The usual emphasis on novelty con- in 2004, after a 15 percent sales increase tinues, with fall offerings abandoning in 2003 brought annual sales to around the over-the-top embellishment of recent $1.8 million. Lowering prices 20 percent years for a more subtle emphasis on last year and instituting cost-cutting fabric and detail. Spring- and summer- measures, such as attending fewer trade related merchandise remains on tap as events, have paid off. With a new show- retailers continue to buy close to season room in New York, the company has also and place reorders. Smaller companies added employees. Growth plans include that produce domestically are especially increased Internet sales and expansion relying on their strengths to react in select European markets. quickly to trends, giving their specialty French Connection, a London-based store customers the unique styling they contemporary sportswear collection, had increasingly demand. a 2003 sales increase of 25 to 35 percent. Below, a look at how WWDMAGIC Sales should grow more in 2004, with the contemporary exhibitors are taking care expansion of the recently launched of business. men’s division. Dina McCaffrey, vice president of sales for the U.S. division, ● HAPPY NEW YEAR: Much of the uncer- said a better U.S. business climate, along tainty of the first half of 2003 has faded with a more consistent presentation into memory, as strong holiday business by the company’s design team, now

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centralized in London, is also helping sales. new products now account for one-fourth of total prints. “With lots of competition from many channels, The company will continue its strategy of iden- sales, and this sector of the business is growing. including high-end consignment shops, we have to tifying key items, such as sweaters, that are “The new groups allow us entrance into a higher- offer special pieces, as well as good value,” explained offered in a variety of colors and coordinate end market,” said spokeswoman Ruby Clifford. Rasmussen. The line starts at $24 for shirts and runs up with the lines’ denim and print groups. Jodi International Ltd., which offers Jodi to $350 for eveningwear, wholesale. Troo, a three-year-old Atlanta-based Collections, a specialty suitings line priced whole- At Troo, novelty is up to the individual. Having rid- sportswear line with a focus on novelty sale at $395 to $550, will introduce J by Jodi, a lower- den the personalized initials trend for spring and sum- T-shirts, tripled sales in 2003 to $2 million, priced line. With 72 pieces, silhouettes include suits, mer, the line is producing more “statement” T-shirts, with projections of $5 million for 2004. sweaters, dresses, scarves and yoga-wear, priced with personalized expressions such as “Never Stop Expanding product and targeting more wholesale from $29 to $149. Dreaming” or “Put Friends First.” Novelty details also majors should fuel increases, said owner “The line is offered as a supplement to our exist- show up in asymmetrical skirts with brooches and tank Stephanie Heflin. ing customers’ wardrobes,” said president/designer tops with feminine sashes. Owner Heflin estimates that Jodi Weisleder. “Rather than dictate the total novelty product is 85 percent of her collection. ● LAUNCH PAD: Looking for ways to look, we’re encouraging customers to mix and Wholesale prices for the line range from $10 to $44. reach a broader audience, contempo- match creatively, such as pairing a yoga pant with rary lines are launching new divisions at a fur-collared sweater.” ● QUICK RESPONSE: Despite the challenges of rising WWDMAGIC. employee health care costs and higher wages, many Two companies are taking a less-is-more ● GETTING UNIQUE: Novelty has driven busi- manufacturers, particularly smaller companies, find approach, with new lingerie and swimwear ness for several seasons. Specialty stores, that domestic production offers more positives than lines. Petit Pois, a Hialeah, Fla., contempo- always on the lookout for unique product that negatives. rary sportswear line, will launch Flesh, a lin- distinguishes them from increasing competi- Petit Pois’ Gabeiras said that manufacturing domes- gerie collection with 50 pieces, priced $9 to tion, demand it. Leaving basics to big manu- tically allows “absolute control” over design, produc- $30 wholesale. Rafael Gabeiras, president facturers, contemporary resources know tion and shipping. “We can stay on top of trends, and of the four-year-old company, said lin- that novelty is their bread and butter. bring things out three to six months ahead of what’s in gerie, in a sheer mesh fabric, is a natural Some, such as J by Jodi, continue with stores,” he said. extension for the company, which uses decorative embellishment, using every- French Connection breaks trends early, allowing mesh liberally in its sportswear line. thing from oversized patent leather but- retailers to place tighter orders up front, test trends Sofia Perrey, a Los Angeles-based tons to safety pins to accent all kinds of and then reorder. “With retailers ordering so close to collection of dresses, clubwear and garments. Others take a more subtle season, our reorder business doubled the past sportswear, takes a similar tack. A approach, letting fabrics and silhou- year,” said McCaffrey. “Stores know that new swimwear line, with 12 styles ettes do the talking. customers are fickle and they have to wholesaling on average for Novelty fabrics create interest be different and react quickly to $50, employs the same hand- and texture at Tailored Elegance, trends.” crocheted and machine-knit a Scottsdale, Ariz., manufac- designs found in the original turer and retailer. “With all the line. jewelry, belts and handbags out Bebe’s white leather and Kitchen Orange, a Montreal sports- there, the market is ready for simpli- grommet slingback. wear line, is going in the other direction, city,” said Susan Rasmussen, owner and expanding an outerwear and knit collection. Tan, pink and gray president. The new groups feature parkas and leisure polyester satin floral Fall textiles for the 50-piece sportswear suits, in expanded colors and styles, at $20 to dress by Sugarmoods. line include metallic wool tweeds, embroi- $115 wholesale. Introduced last year, the dered silks and stretch fabrics in geometric SOHK™, Hard Knocks™, School of Hard Knocks™ are registered trademarks of SOHK Sportswear, Inc.

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SECTION II

WWDMAGIC SPORTSWEAR/DRESSES & THEGALLERY

Leather jacket setting the course and cotton stretch skirt by Sportswear and dress vendors look toward growth, Live A Little. but keep the bottom line in mind.

By Rusty Williamson and Evan Clark After a few years of discouragement marked by recession and war, sportswear and dress firms are starting to see things turn around and are looking again toward expansion. At the same time, vendors are also feeling the universal squeeze of value in the apparel industry, spurred on by the rise of the discounter and the increasing significance of China on the importing scene — trends that show no sign of reversing course anytime soon. Here, a look at how some of the sportswear and dress vendors at WWDMAGIC are shoring up operations and moving ahead in a dynamic world.

● VALUE DAYS: Something new is always needed to keep business moving forward, and it doesn’t hurt if that something new is easy on consumers’ purses, said Isabel Sokisryansky, chief executive officer and designer of Isabel in Garland, Tex., which is expanding its selection of tops. Tops, she explained, are less expensive than whole outfits and, accordingly, make for easier sales. The firm, which is known for its leather sportswear and coordinated separates with leather trim, produces the Isabel and Bella Pelle lines. Wholesale prices range from $42 to $199. Needle & Threads, a New York-based women’s sportswear brand, is courting specialty store business by lowering prices and absorbing the balance on its bottom line, said Eli Cameo, president. “This year, we’re new looks, new fabrics and lower prices,” said Cameo. “So many stores are facing difficulties because of the economy. We’re lowering our margins and selling more merchandise, which is equating to good gains for us. I think business will be ahead by more than 10 percent in 2004.” Needle & Threads wholesale prices range from $15 to $30.

● GETTING ASSORTED OUT: It doesn’t always pay to be a specialist. Sportswear and dress vendors are finding a broader assortment of products is a good way to keep growth up. Montreal-based Tribal Sportswear Inc., which is primarily known as a pants firm, is widening its distribution. “Our distribution is expanding; it has been expanding over the last two years,” said Pat Brown, national sales manager. Brown credits the firm’s expansion to pants that fit well and new products. “We’ve broadened our product assortment,” she said. “We have more outerwear pieces than we’ve ever had before.” Variety helps the firm not only appeal to more retailers but also grow existing accounts — for instance, producing jackets that go back to pants. Tribal sells to 2,000 specialty stores in the United States and Canada and produces private label goods for firms such as Nordstrom, J.C. Penney and Saks Inc. Tribal’s wholesale prices range from $24.50 to $99. Indian Tropical Fashions, based in Miami, is planning to grow by at least 20 percent in 2004, thanks to aggressive outreach to retailers through trade shows, explained Sangita Sant, office manager. “We attend trade shows across the U.S. It’s where we meet our customers and show off our new lines and items,” said Sant. “We show a mix of classics and newness — whatever it takes to meet the needs of retailers.” Wholesale prices start at $5 and go to $30. Gautam Mamik, operations manager at New York-based Florissant Fashions Inc., noted, “In this economy, you can’t make your design focus too narrow. We’re a misses’ sportswear line but we’re making the line more contemporary with stretch fibers and different washes. “We believe this will appeal to our core demographic as well as younger women,” said Mamik. “Catering to a broader market is a way to expand the business even though the economy has been bad. We’re planning to increase volume this year by 15 to 20 percent.” Florissant’s wholesale prices range from $30 to $95.

● MAKING INTRODUCTIONS: Of course, there are also those taking their first stab at the market. Ryan Michael, a new women’s and men’s better sportswear label that emphasizes silk shirts, is launching in February for fall. “We’re building a lifestyle brand, focusing on fashion-driven outdoor lifestyle In Gauge’s apparel, including lots of silk jacquard tops,” said Mike Ryan, president of the rayon and Kennesaw, Ga.-based company. To spread the word, the company has kicked off a direct-mail campaign to 20,000 retailers, among other tactics. Wholesale prices nylon dress. are $29 to $175.

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Cotton a look at thegallery stretch stretch corduroy This season is the first time out for thegallery, a specially designed pavilion within the sportswear and pantsuit dress area that showcases a sampling of about 10 juried sportswear and dress firms new to WWDMAGIC. and silk, Vendors featured in thegallery each attack their businesses in a different way. There is one com- cotton, monality, however. Each of the firms is looking to expand its customer base at the show. cotton, Colin Brockman, national sales manager for Yoakum, Texas-based Double D nylon and Ranch, noted, “We would like to increase our distribution and are going to be spandex doing that through the WWDMAGIC show, hopefully.” top by The firm, which sells a range of goods, including suede, leather and fur jackets Danielle M at wholesale prices from $49 to $499, does most of its business west of the for & Mississippi River and is looking to build its Northeast distribution. Trousers. Doing more trade shows might be one way to tap into the region for Double D. “We’re starting with WWDMAGIC and if that’s successful, we’ll branch out further [to other shows],” said Brockman. The firm is looking to increase its Wool, nylon sales by 10 percent this year. and polyamide Double D is also roping in customers in cyber- top by Sulu by space. “Now we’re trying to grow our Internet B.K. Hamburg. business,” he said, adding, “Yes, it’s the wave of the future, but a lot of specialty stores just are not at that point.” For those stores not yet plugged in, Brockman said a video presentation of the line has been a good selling tool. While the Web and videos are ways to spur growth, Brockman admitted they worked better with existing accounts than with new customers. Retailers, he noted, “are all creatures of touch and feel.” Jerrie Butler, U.S. sales manager of London-based N. Peal, which has two cashmere lines, N. Peal Collection and Npealworks, said business has been tough, but is improving. “It’s not quite back to what it was before, but we’re getting there,” said Butler, referring to the boom years that were cut off by stock market declines, a recession and war. The tough economy after the terrorist attacks in 2001 forced N. Peal to close stores in Chicago, Seattle and San Francisco. The firm, which last year had wholesale volume of about $750,000 and still has stores in New York, Colorado and England, is re- bounding, however, and actively looking to expand with more franchise stores. N. Peal’s lines, which walk the divide between trendy and classic looks, wholesale for $50 to $450. Polyester —E.C. satin skirt by Double Citrine’s wool D Ranch. Success Comes in Stages tweed dress. Wells Fargo CenturySM For more than 50 years, Century Business Credit Corporation built a reputation for innovative, flexible financing to help growing businesses seize today’s opportunities and achieve tomorrow’s goals. In 1999, we expanded our growth by becoming part of the Wells Fargo family of companies.

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SECTION II

WWDMAGIC CASUAL LIFESTYLE get ting at the good life Casual vendors might cater to the leisurely spirit, but their strategies for pursuing big business are anything but laid-back.

By Evan Clark and Rusty Williamson including coordinating hats, gloves, mittens and scarves. The firm’s goods wholesale for $10 to $99. Despite their laid-back products, casual vendors have to be proactive when it “We’re always looking for ways to build our collection and comes to keeping their businesses on track. So, proactive they’re being. Some are expand on the success of our sweaters,” said Kristin Quigley, switching up their designs to appeal to new customers or to become more relevant executive vice president and daughter of company founder to existing customers. Others are shifting their assortments, offering more lifestyle Gerbur Krisjansdottir. solutions with more products or focusing on niches with more selective wares. Duran Salaz-Dean, sales representative for New York- One thing is for sure, however, the trend toward casual is not going away, based India Bali Imports, said the company just moved into despite the recent strengthening in the career classification. higher-end linens for next spring with its Freestyle label. Increasingly, causal defines shoppers’ lives, leaving a wide The firm’s misses’ looks, which often include embroi- field for vendors to cover and a diverse selection of niches dery, wholesale for anywhere from $18 to $80. for firms to delve into. “We wanted to start a line that catered to the bet- Below, a glance at how some casual lifestyle ven- ter boutiques,” said Salaz-Dean. “Everybody in dors showing at WWDMAGIC are reacting to this department stores is so price-conscious now.” broad market. India Bali’s business has been somewhat slow, but seems to be turning. “I think it’s going to get ● PRICE CUTS: Lowering prices to drive volume is a a lot better,” said Salaz-Dean. “We’ve had a lot standard play from the apparel vendor’s handbook. more buyers stop by. Before it Prices across the industry, though, have been drop- was really slow.” ping and are expected to continue to do so. And it’s more than just a rush to reach a broader consumer. ● STYLE UPDATE: The competi- One of the most immediate threats to pricing sta- tive nature of fashion makes it a bility across the industry is the business of reinvention. To casual planned drop of quotas on textiles vendors, tweaks made to a line and apparel in 2005 by the World Lubas’ purple, red and white can help keep the looks fresh or Trade Organization. This leaves polyester and cotton embroidered they can set a new direction to China in a position to increase its patch and rhinestone blouse. drive sales. already significant market New York-based Angela L., a share of apparel production. women’s casual sportswear But how much are prices and fashion item expected to drop? label with wholesale Last month, at a financial prices from $15 to seminar in New York spon- $55, is taking a new sored by Financo Inc., design direction with a TSonga’s embroidered blue Mackey McDonald, chairman Unindo’s wooden beaded mule. younger look that will and chief executive officer of suede boot. appeal to a broader VF Corp., one of the world’s largest apparel companies, range of women, explained Angela Leung, president. noted, “The assumption we’re making is about 15 percent.” “Misses’ customers want to look younger and Based on this assumption, Kaktus Inc., New York, a they love the novelty and trends found in the con- women’s casual sportswear label that’s been in business 20 temporary market,” she said. “To grow sales and years, is already making its pricing competitive by lower- expand our retail base, we’re giving our line a more ing prices as much as 15 percent. In addition to this, novel appeal and adding more trends. It’s contem- Kaktus has narrowed its design focus to include more porary styling for the misses’ shopper.” classics and proven bestsellers, said Martin Klein, exec- Likewise, Alps Sportswear, based in Lawrence, utive vice president of sales. “We’re trying to go narrow Mass., and in business 70 years, is updating its design and deep with our assortments and offer items that have focus and adding a more feminine feel to the label, a history. We believe this approach will help build our said David Lane, vice president of merchandising. volume in 2004.” The firm’s wholesale prices range “We’re trying to refine the presentation and make it from $7.50 to $30. a little livelier, updated and soft,” said Lane. “That’s where the casual sportswear market is going, and we ● THE EXPANSION FRONT: While some are looking for believe our change is right on target with what women growth with narrower assortments, others are run- want. We’re no longer just going with a straight out- ning the other way and expanding. doorsy woolen fashion approach. Witness Icelandic Designs, a casual knitwear label “It’s going to be a welcome change and really build in Longmont, Colo., which is building sales by com- our volume; we easily see a 20 percent gain based on plementing its extensive sweater collection with bot- the younger and updated look. We’ve also been able toms such as classic A-line skirts and accessories to change our focus without raising prices,” he said. Papillon’s black rayon dress The firm’s looks wholesale for $17 to $50. Indira’s black, pink, ivory and green rayon dress. with pink lining. WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004 33

SECTION II

WWDMAGIC RESORT

Peppermint have fashion,will travel Bay’s sequined cotton As 2004 gets into full swing, resortwear companies are launching new lines tunic. and expecting strong growth ahead.

By Melanie Kletter ● NEW ADDITIONS: A number of resortwear makers are branching out with new lines and divisions this season. Carol Wior Slimsuit has just Resortwear makers are approaching this year with renewed optimism. launched a new division called Niki Wior Slimsuit, which is named Following two difficult years of challenging business conditions, after Carol Wior’s daughter. The line is aimed at a younger customer vendors are expecting strong growth in 2004 due in part to the continued and includes tankinis and two-piece styles, while the original line is all interest in casual clothes and more space for the category at retail. one-piece suits. The travel business has picked up, especially domestically, “It has the control of the original line, with a younger feel,” said Erich leading to increased sales of bathing suits and related cover-ups. Ehrlich, national sales manager for Carol Wior. Swimwear makers say the business is now year-round. Aimed at consumers aged 25 to 35, the Niki Wior collection carries A number of firms said they were adjusting to changes in buying wholesale prices in the range of about $25 to $38. Similar to the Carol Wior patterns since many store buyers have altered the way they purchase line, the Niki Wior offerings have a Lycra spandex lining designed to add seasonal merchandise. For example, many buyers are now waiting until shape and control. The colors for Niki Wior include lime green and coral, Polyester, spring to purchase merchandise for that same season, executives said. and some styles have Hawaiian print motifs. The popularity of pajamas is also on the rise. “People are Among those looking to break into the resort market is a new swim cotton and wearing pajama pants to the mall and to the movies, and kids are and resortwear company by the controversial name of Beauty Natzi. spandex wearing them to school,” said Jeff Gray, president of Creative Owner and designer Linda Palmer said the name is meant as something jacket, tank Apparel. “People want to lounge. That’s what it’s all about now.” of a joke since her sisters used to tease her with that moniker, and she and pants Vendors, however, don’t want to be caught napping, and many are hopes people will not find it offensive. by Line-Up using a range of strategies to grow their businesses this year. Here, a She describes her line as “fun and flashy.” The swim pieces come in for Sport. recap of what they say is working best. bright colors such as lime green and blue as well as black, lilac and coral, she noted, and some have embellishments such as beads and even fur ● PRICE CUT: Some companies are trimming prices as a way to that can get wet. In addition to swimwear, the line also includes items generate higher volume and entice buyers. First Fashion Boutique, such as yoga pants and cover-ups and a small selection of accessories. a line of clothing produced in India, is cutting its prices by 20 “I am a huge swimwear connoisseur,” Palmer said. “And for years, I had percent, said Dolly Batra, president of the Elmhurst, N.Y.-based not found anything that really caught my attention, so I decided to start my company. own line. This is for women who are confident and want to stand out more.” “We are bringing the price down due to the way the economy is The Salt Lake City-based line is produced overseas, and wholesale now,” noted Batra. “We feel this is the right thing to do.” price points average about $30 to $40. Palmer said she is targeting The line includes ethnic-inspired offerings aimed at fashion- upscale boutiques. forward women of all ages, Batra said. Styles include skirt sets and “Even though the economy is struggling, there are still people going separates, as well as dresses. traveling and on cruises,” she noted. Wholesale prices range from about $10 for tops to $38 for some of its priciest skirt sets. “We have been in business for about seven years, and I think the price cut will help us attract new customers,” she noted.

● FABRIC FIX: Some makers are giving their offerings a dose of energy by using different fabrics. “We are making a big commitment to linen and moving into more higher-end fabrics,” said Ruth Ann Katzen, co-owner of Wareham, Mass.-based resort company Soft As Grape. Wholesale prices range from about $6 for T-shirts to $25 for some of the linen offerings. Peppermint Bay, a resortwear line owned by Sonali Corp., is stepping up its offerings in cotton and cotton gauze as part of its new Palm Court line, said Diane Citrin, merchandise manager and sales manager. The prices are slightly higher than its Peppermint Bay line, ranging from about $10 to $18. “It’s a more contemporary look, and we are appealing to boutiques and higher-end stores,” Citrin noted. The line includes dresses and long-sleeved shirts, as well as drawstring pants, many of which are made in bright colors such as pink, turquoise, lime and lavender. FACTORING BY DESIGN prints • stretch • shine • slick • surface • sheer • satin • sparkle • smoother • shimmer • prints • stretch40 • shine • slick • surface • sheer • satin • sparkle • smootheryears • shimmer • prints • stretch • shine • slick • surface • sheer • satin • sparkle • smoother • shimmer • prints • stretch • shine • slick • surface • sheer • satin • sparkle • smoother • shimmer • prints • stretch • shine • slick • surface • sheer • satin • sparkle • smoother • shimmer • prints • stretch • shine • slick • surface • sheer • satin • sparkle • smoother • shimmer • prints • stretch • shine • NY - 212-869-8255 1400 Broadway • LA - 213-622-4439 slick • surface • sheer • satin • sparkle • smoother • shi A DIVISION OF IDBBANK Call Saul Langer, SVP and Division Head or Michael Bell, VP at 212-273-2960 IDBFactors Empire State Building 350 Fifth Avenue, NY 10118 TIGER BUTTON CO., INC. TIGER TRIMMING, INC. 307 West 38th Street New York, NY 10018 IDBBank is a registered service mark of Israel Discount Bank of New York. (212)594-0570 800-223-2754 FAX (212)695-0265 Total assets exceed $7.5 billion. MEMBER FDIC email: [email protected] www.TIGERBUTTON.com 34 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004

SECTION II

WWDMAGIC OUTERWEAR coming in from the cold As outerwear moves beyond the basics, vendors look toward expansion to add more heat to this growing market.

By Rusty Williamson Krio’s white fox vest No matter the weather, outerwear is hot. A growing cadre of retailers are now by Natural Furs. merchandising coats year-round as a chic accessory in high demand from younger shoppers on a budget as well as wealthy women who change coats as often as they change outfits. And that’s good news for outerwear vendors, who are reporting healthy sales gains as they move beyond basics and infuse more fashion into their collections, including shearling, fur trim, leather and novelty touches such as beading and embroidery. To maintain this momentum and attract new business, coat makers are talking expansion: launching new lines, branching out into new wholesale territories and increasing advertising and marketing. Below, a glance at the tactics being put to the test in the outerwear sector.

● GETTING IN LINE: While coat makers aren’t reproducing like bunnies, the business is seeing an upswing in new lines, the by-product of makers’ efforts to appeal to a wider customer base. Mitchie’s Matchings, a Montreal-based line, is going after the younger value- minded shopper with its new Mitchie’s Collection, launched in February. “Retailers and customers wanted a little fashion spice at a price more women could afford,” said Mitch Fazekas, president of Mitchie’s Matchings. The new line, which includes fur and suede-trimmed vests and cropped rabbit jackets, will wholesale between $45 and $250. Natural Furs International, also based in Montreal, recently launched a mink and shearling collection called Krio. The fashion-conscious collection features novelty touches such as bias cuts and men’s wear references, as evidenced by men’s vintage neckties used as trim, said Christina Nacos, vice president. Wholesale prices are between $500 and $2,000 and beyond, depending on the detailing. “Krio is targeted for smaller fashion boutiques where women can appreciate the fashion edge and the price points,” explained Nacos. “It’s something different that they won’t find at the department stores.” Society Canada, a fur and leather coat firm in Toronto, this month launched a new classic-styled shearling coat label called Aquill Amiq that wholesales between $400 and $1,000, said Karl Matar, vice president of sales. “Aquill Amiq complements our fashion-intensive label called High Society Canada, which often features younger and funkier styles, including printed and patterned skins. It’s very edgy,” explained Matar.

● SHOWING OFF: In a bid to expand into new markets, Mitchie’s Matchings plans to increase its attendance at trade shows in America and Scandinavia, said Fazekas. “Trade shows remain a perfect venue to show your collections and meet new stores.” Natural Furs International’s game plan is to increase its presence at trade shows and in regional marketplaces, said Nacos. “We’re definitely stepping up our attendance at industry trade shows. It’s part of our strategy to reach smaller boutiques and nontraditional retail outlets. The next step is to get multiline sales rep- resentation in different wholesale markets throughout North America — someone who represents the line full-time in a given territory.” Society Canada is angling to increase its U.S. business, said Matar. “We’ve been a dominant presence in the Canadian market for over 30 years, and with a new generation of our family helping to run the business, we’re expanding our vision.” Musi Furs of Montreal is charting sharp increases in its U.S. sales, noted Joey Barnes, president of marketing. “Our attendance at American trade shows is certainly helping us build sales. We’re selling to many more fashion boutiques instead of traditional fur stores.” Wholesale prices are between $400 and $1,500, a range that includes suede and shearling jackets with a boxy silhouette, and richly hued Black nylon jacket Tan wool coat furs that take cues from fashion trends. with fur lining by with fur trim by H+S Outerwear. Rendezvous N.Y. ● MARKETING MANEUVERS: Direct mail campaigns, in-store signage and magazine ads are a few ways coat vendors market collections. “In the past, we haven’t done much advertising, but that’s really going to change this year,” said Jeff Adler, president of Adler Leathers in Sylmar, Calif. “There’s a younger generation of women who are buying furs that we’re going after. We’re taking our advertising forward.” Wholesale prices are between $50 and $500 for Adler’s three women’s labels, which include Adler Collections, Juliette Michelle and Alegre Donna. “There’s a strong trend for younger women, especially those in their 20s, to purchase a fur, so we’re making sure they’re aware of the Society Canada brands,” said Matar. “We work with stores to prominently position our coats and we make sure there’s plenty of marketing collateral in the stores, such as posters, to fully push the branding of our products.”

● FASHION EDGE: Coat designers are paying close attention to fashion runways for inspiration. “For the last 10 years, our business was basically black lamb jackets. It was a sea of black,” said Adler of Adler Leathers. “Now we’re becoming much more diversified with fashion styling such as fringe and braiding and using much more suede and fur.” Mitchie’s Matchings is using fashion, including textured furs and unusual surface treatments on leather and suede, as a tactic to build sales, said Fazekas. “It’s visually interesting and draws interest at retail. Stores have been asking us to give them some spice to heat up their coat businesses.” Young, sexy and edgy styling is helping Society Canada score with U.S. customers, said Matar. “We’re showing printed skins with patterns and lots of shearlings.” Musi Furs is also focusing on edgier styles, which includes incorporating hip- hop references, said Barnes. “Our styles are much more fashion-driven than weather-driven. It’s part of the outreach to younger women. They’re buying fur coats as an accessory, something to wear with their new Jimmy Choo shoes.” Instant Message from Today’s Teens jUiCyNiKki: wanna go to the mall on sat? ReCklEsS aBanDon 373: im gonna go to the vans warped tour jUiCyNiKki: thats on sun…we can still go on sat ReCklEsS aBanDon 373: dont have any money. just got a new ipod case sk8r grrl: sup? fAsHiOnAbLe1: buying some jeans online…here sk8r grrl: oohhh cool. where’d you see them? fAsHiOnAbLe1: mischa was wearing them on The OC

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Our program will include: Speakers from: Ocean Pacific, Vans, Active Ride Shop, Hot Kiss, Ecko Unlimited, Yak Pak, Quiksilver Entertainment, Drunknmunky. Workshops on: Talking to Your Tribe, Getting Press, Grassroots Marketing and Licensing, plus a live Teen Focus Group. Be there April 1st.

WWD DNR DIFFERENTIATING Call 212-630-4777, e-mail [email protected] TEEN APPAREL: or log onto www.wwd.com/teens/ to register. AND CONNECTING APRIL 1, 2004 — PACIFIC DESIGN CENTER, LOS ANGELES

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WWW.TRIBAL-INC.COM PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA; MODEL: JUSTINE CUELENAERE; HAIR BY MATEO AND MAKEUP BY ROANNA, BOTH FOR WARREN TRICOMI WWDInnerwear Preview Innerwear Preview Innerwear turnin turnin Johnson necklace. cotton andmicrofiberbra.Nancy and pajamapantswithChantelle’s cashmere, merinoandrayonrobe chic fordiningout.Here,Hanro’s cozy forloungingathomeasitis wrap overfluidpants,thelookisas cashmere? Andifit’s ashort,easy luxurious thantherichfeelof NEW YORK —Whatcouldbemore Johnson necklace. cotton andmicrofiberbra.Nancy and pajamapantswithChantelle’s cashmere, merinoandrayonrobe chic fordiningout.Here,Hanro’s cozy forloungingathomeasitis wrap overfluidpants,thelookisas cashmere? Andifit’s ashort,easy luxurious thantherichfeelof NEW YORK —Whatcouldbemore g g pale pale Section lll 2 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004

SECTION III theINNERWEAR eresPREVIEW touch

By Karyn Monget The Eres Darjeeling has 82 lingerie boutiques in boutique on the PARIS — Irene Leroux is no ordinary designer of lingerie and France and plans to operate 100 by 2005. chic Avenue swimwear. In the 36 years since she founded the high-profile Eres brand, Montaigne. her innovative ideas have positioned the Eres name as a household name in France and it has gained such a loyal following of Darjeeling’s upscale customers that Chanel bought Eres in June 1997. Eres was known primarily for its swimwear, but in fall 1998, with the guidance and financial muscle of Chanel, Leroux introduced upscale lingerie bearing the Eres name. Leroux called it Exotic Brew a “natural extension” of her swimwear designs featuring sleek and elegant silhouettes. PARIS — Chantelle is aspiring to make The lingerie collection bowed in the U.S. at Bergdorf Darjeeling more than just a cup of tea to Goodman, where Eres swimwear already was a bestseller. Now, French consumers. Leroux’s lingerie and swimwear is sold in 700 department store The 55-year-old foundations special- doors worldwide, 10 in-store shops at major department store in ist, with estimated wholesale sales of Japan and eight freestanding Eres bou- more than $45 million worldwide for its tiques: four in Paris, one in Saint- upscale Chantelle brand, opened its Tropez and three in the U.S. — two in first branded Darjeeling lingerie shop in New York and one in Palm Beach, Fla. Toulouse, France, in 1985. Today, the Leroux, whose combined wholesale secondary brand has grown dramatically and retail business generates annual and is sold in 82 units throughout revenues over $75 million according to France, and generates retail revenues industry estimates, said she has no close to $50 million, according to immediate plans to open additional industry sources. freestanding Eres shops, unless “an Martine Barrachina, director of the opportunity presented itself. Then we Darjeeling chain, said comparable-store would not let that go.” sales have “consistently increased 10 She noted that a creative partner- percent annually and we’ve had an over- ship called Le Club with “20 of the all turnover of 25 percent each year.” best-selling doors in France, Germany, Part of that winning formula is the Italy and Belgium has been a big suc- diversified location of boutiques in resi- cess, and Le Club is taking up a great dential and commercial areas such as deal of our time.” shopping malls. The idea of Le Club, implemented “There are no franchises. We own all six months ago, involves dedicated of the stores,” said Barrachina, noting space and point-of-sale materials. that the company keeps a watchful eye “We have built specialized furnish- on all of its retail operations and has ings and displays with a back-lit Eres opened an average of 12 units per year logo,” said Leroux. “We provide posters over the past several years. and work very closely with these retail The company plans to expand the partners. Turnover of merchandise is number of doors to 100 by 2005, and over 30 percent from a year ago.” will add 50 units within the next sever- Always in the midst of conceptualiz- al years. All bras, panties and related ing, developing and merchandising, as undergarments sold at the specialty

well as overseeing marketing, advertis- DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTOS BY chain are manufactured by Chantelle ing and the aesthetics of the retail business, Leroux is not based the Salon International de la Lingerie, where gaining entry into and bear the Darjeeling label. About 30 in a grandiose office in the chic 7th arrondissement here, where the Eres stand is as easy as breaking into a gendarmerie. The percent is produced in China. scores of fashion houses line Avenue Montaigne. Rather, there reason for the high security is the growing number of copyists “The expansion will continue to be is an ambience of serenity and simplicity at her modernistic who not only look for new silhouettes and styling techniques, in France. I want to get a very secure design studio and workrooms in the 20th arrondissement, a but fabric innovation. Case in point: Two years ago, Leroux position before considering opening locale famed for its Pere Lachaise cemetery where rocker Jim introduced a man-made semisheer fabric with a pliable, crisp stores outside of France,” said Morrison of The Doors is buried. hand the industry dubbed “paper fabric.” Barrachina. “We’ve been here in the east of Paris for 12 years. I love it. It’s But Leroux was willing to share some highlights of her new While the Chantelle label is aimed at like going to the meat market,” said Leroux. collection; a “new, feminine, sexy direction” in classic soft-cup the high-end customer, Darjeeling’s tar- But Leroux, who lives 20 minutes away in Montmartre, said and underwire bras and a variety of coordinating panties of a get customer is more mainstream. The she does her “best thinking” driving to and from work, saying, “I microfiber blend of viscose, Lycra spandex and polyester fin- average age group is 25 to 40 with the love to drive. I’m not interrupted by a radio or telephones. ished in a stretch Calais lace and Le Puy lace trim. Key colors median age of 30. During the work day, it all becomes somewhat hopeless, but at are soft mauve and pink, as well as black. A top look is an all-in- “The look of Darjeeling is certainly night my ideas all work out.” one bodysuit with garters that can be worn as an a undergar- not junior,” she said. “This customer The newest ideas for fall-winter 2004-2005 were unveiled at ment or over jeans, she said. knows what her body looks like and is at ease with herself and wants to enhance her femininity. She wants comfort but wants to look great, seductive.” Suggested retail prices for bras are Vannina Vesperini Wins Award about $30 to $48, while panties are $10 to $25. PARIS — Up-and-coming lingerie designer Vannina Vesperini was the recipient Meanwhile, Sonja Winther, managing of the Createur 2004 Award from the Salon International de la Lingerie. The director of the Chantelle operation in the award-winning design was a seductive black allover lace sleepgown that can dou- U.S., said the fall collection continues its ble as an evening gown. universal marketing campaign of “Paris The Corsica-born designer, who started her business here in 1996, received the Dresses The Women Of The World.” award at a gala presentation and exhibition at the city hall of Paris, which was “We presented the fall collection at hosted by Mayor Bertrand Delanoe. Vesperini is known for her seductive yet con- the November market in New York. temporary bras and coordinating panties, sleepwear and daywear pieces that are There was good reaction, and now its all luxe and sophisticated. being firmed up,” said Winther. Vesperini’s next plans include opening a second boutique bearing her name in Chantelle’s biggest news for the the South of France by 2005. She opened her first specialty shop here on the Right European market was a fashion basic in Bank this year. She also noted that she will be part of a “group of European the U.S.: seamless microfiber. “Matte designers who will be featured under their brand names at Victoria’s Secret” in molded styles are still a big novelty in the near future. Vannina Vesperini poses next to her Europe,” she said. award-winning black lace gown. — K.M.

— K.M. DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTO BY WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004 3

the intimate apparel industry. He was national accounts spring-summer 2004 collection of intimates, and a musical manager at VF Intimates from 1982 to 2000 and served as segment with members of the cast of the Broadway hit, national sales manager at Wacoal America from 2000 to 2002. “Wonderful Town.” Maidenform, Macy’s and “Wonderful Town” INTIMATE NOTES His most recent post was national sales manager at Flora offered complimentary tickets for two to any customer who Nikrooz Inc., which was acquired by Age Group in 2003. purchased $75 or more of Maidenform products. FERNANDO’S NEW DIGS: The fall-holiday 2004 collection of MacKenzie, who has been an intimate apparel executive Retail sales on Feb. 12 increased 20 percent over the same sleepwear and at-homewear by Fernando Sanchez will be since 1976, was president and a partner of Hong Kong-based year-ago period, according to industry sources. shown at the Yalla Inc. showrooms at 1370 Broadway. The Keys USA, a maker of private label apparel for the past two La Petite Coquette joined forces with French bra specialist collection had formerly been ensconced in a showroom at 10 years. Earlier, he served as vice president of sales at Lady Ester Chantelle for a media event that featured pink champagne by East 33rd Street, but was closed in late 2003. Corp. from 2000 to 2002. Moët & Chandon, petits fours, and a reading of “My Lurid Neill Mossberg, president of the Yalla company, which Past” by up-and-coming British novelist Lauren Henderson. acquired the Sanchez name last year, said the firm is “actively INTIMATE V-DAY: Two retailers teamed up with two bra brands in The book describes the sexual exploits of a young career looking” for a new permanent location in Manhattan to house a creative way to promote lingerie for Valentine’s Day gift- woman in London “who is a little edgier than Bridget Jones, is the Sanchez collection. giving: Macy’s Herald Square and La Petite Coquette, a a bona fide man-eater, hungry for love, and sleeps with men “When we took a temporary space for Fernando on 33rd specialty boutique in Manhattan. who are always totally inappropriate.” Street, we were closing on a new property, a building. But at the Maidenform Inc. paired with Macy’s Feb. 12 at a cocktail Guests left the event with a copy of Lauren’s novel, a ruby closing, we thought we didn’t have to do this in a rush,” said event in the intimate apparel department featuring chocolate red embroidered thong by Chantelle and love advice from Mossberg, noting that the time frame for a new location is by covered strawberries, informal modeling of Maidenform’s Henderson: “Enjoy it.” early 2005. Since Yalla’s takeover, Mossberg said sales are 12 to 15 percent above plan for the first full year.

WACOAL NAMES WIDELL: Gwendolyn M. Widell has been named vice president of merchandising and design for Wacoal USA. Widell will report to Richard Murray, president of Wacoal. She succeeds Alan Fisher, an 18-year veteran of Wacoal who will retire March 5. Widell brings to Wacoal 15 years of merchandising and design experience at The Warnaco Group, where she was senior vice president of product development for several core foundations brands including Warner’s, Olga and Bodyslimmers. During her tenure at Warnaco, she also worked directly with designers Emanuel Ungaro, Valentino and Arnold Scaasi developing product for licensees. Earlier, Widell was an intimate apparel buyer at Macy’s, Rich’s and I. Magnin.

LIPTON JOINS LIZ: Liz Claiborne Inc. has appointed Barbara Lipton vice president and general merchandise manager of Liz Claiborne Modern Accessories. Lipton will oversee accessories bearing the Juicy Couture, Ellen Tracy and Sigrid Olsen labels. She will report to Ed Bucciarelli, group president of Liz Claiborne Accessories. Claiborne officials declined to comment. Lipton had been vice president of merchandising and design for the licensed Donna Karan Intimates and DKNY Underwear licenses at Wacoal America since June 2002. Before that, she spent 20 years at Saks Fifth Avenue, where she served as divisional merchandise manager of intimate apparel and hosiery and vice president and dmm of fashion jewelry. “It really was a hard decision to make but this is an amazing offer,” said Lipton, who begins at Claiborne March 1. Richard Murray, president of Wacoal America, said, “We’re disappointed to see her leave. She’s made a great contribution to the Donna Karan [intimates] businesses.” A successor at Wacoal has not been named.

NAP TAPS EXECS: NAP Inc. has named two executives to newly created posts. Harvey Perlowitz has been appointed divisional president of the Anne Lewin and the licensed Bill Blass sleepwear, robe and loungewear operations, and Scott A. MacKenzie has been tapped as divisional president of the private label divisions. Perlowitz and MacKenzie will report to NAP’s board. Perlowitz is a 22-year veteran of 4 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004

SECTION III

INNERWEAR PREVIEW natori’s lesson plan: sex doesn’ t always sel l

PHILADELPHIA — Josie Natori came to speak to 85 students here at Drexel make the cash registers sing. After all, she has now broadened her collections to University’s fashion program about the business of designing and selling clothes. include an accessories line of belts, shawls, wraps and handbags. Her designs are “The hours you spend at your job are more than in your other life, so you had bet- regulars on “Sex and the City,” “The Sopranos” and “Friends.” ter love it,” the investment banker-turned-fashion mogul offered as her number-one After two hours with the students, Natori was the guest of honor at a cocktail piece of advice. reception for close to 250 benefactors and supporters of the fashion program, spon- Lesson two from Natori, who built a $50 million empire selling silky numbers often not sored by the Friends of the College of Media Arts and Design, which was the benefi- for public consumption: Sex — or at least its more ciary of ticket sales. The event featured an overt representations — doesn’t always sell. Josie Natori, informal showing of her spring collection and Natori, who critiqued senior students’ lin- seated front row, helped raise money for student fashion schol- gerie collections inspired by the film “Moulin center, critiqued arships. Rouge” and swimsuits by juniors that had Pop Fashion Students’ “It is important [for us] in the industry to con- Art twists, questioned the creators when things designs at Drexel nect with you, because you are the future,” she got a little too racy. University. told the students. “So you are stuck with me.” “This is very sexy,” she said more than once. As the first model came out, she told the well- “Would you wear this?” she asked the room of heeled crowd, “Here is a glimpse of spring. I hope students. Natori then eased the designers who to make all of you Natori customers some day.” were put on the spot by offering, “You know, if There were charmeuse ombré slips, kimono we think we have gone a little overboard in our robes with embroidered obis and leaf print designs, we pull back. If it is too sexy, it is not pajamas. Ever the consummate salesperson, salable,” she conceded. Natori said, “I want you all to go to Neiman She paused at one student’s work — a white Marcus tomorrow. These are not expensive and swimsuit and matching robe with an embroi- you can throw them in the washing machine,” dered face on both pieces, inspired by actress assuring the laughing crowd that this was one of Joan Crawford. Natori, whose business is cen- their selling points. “You really can.”

tered on the craftsmanship of her native PHOTO BY MARJORIE BECKER When two V-neck tunic T-shirts with colorful Philippines, was taken by the elaborate needlework, a signature of her company. ocean prints came out she said, “I know most of you go to bed wearing T-shirts. These “The students were in awe of her,” said Emil DeJohn, director of career develop- are more glamorous versions. Or throw this on with a pair of jeans and you can go ment for Drexel’s fashion department. “I met Josie at a career day in New York and out.” A black-and- white polkadot duo had already been reordered by Neiman I thought she was so inspirational to the students. I knew I had to have her come.” Marcus, Natori said. “I always say you don’t have to wait for a man to go and buy you While Natori said she rarely meets the student who wants to design lingerie, that lingerie. Women should dress for women, and not for men.” doesn’t stop her from giving the designers-in-training advice on what will in the end — Kathleen Nicholson Webber WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004 5 changes ahead at saks

By Karyn Monget Joseph Boitano, senior vice president of designer, ready-to-wear, home accessories and chil- NEW YORK — Saks Fifth Avenue’s new chief exec- dren’s wear. Also on hand was Georgia Frasch, utive officer Fred Wilson let one of his plans for the wife of Ron Frasch, who joined the retailer ear- retailer slip during the pre-Valentine’s Day launch lier this month to develop its international of the Natori Black Label collection of foundations opportunities and private brands. at the store’s Fifth Avenue Club on Feb. 12. John Bowman, president of Dana-Co Apparel Wilson, who attended the event on the sixth- Group, the company licensed to manufacture floor men’s department with his wife, Debbie, and distribute foundations and panties bearing said lingerie was such an “important business” the Natori name, said of the event, “Sales of that he planned to make major changes regard- about $7,500 were generated by week’s end, and ing real estate and placement of intimate we didn’t have major inventory. It was so suc- apparel at the Saks flagship. cessful that we are replenishing with fillers so “It’s what brings the customers in to shop. I they won’t lose any sales.” plan to relocate lingerie to a ready-to-wear floor,” The top-selling bra styles were a signature red said Wilson, who once served as a sponsor of lin- embroidered Asian floral number on a black gerie at Associated Dry Goods Corp. in the early satin-like background called Natorious, and a Seventies. Wilson said the move will most likely seamless full-figure style of microfiber called Zen. be completed within the next 12 to 18 months. In the meantime, a new showroom and offices “Did you hear that? That’s wonderful. I can’t at 102 Madison Avenue have been opened for wait,” said Josie Natori, ceo of the Natori Co., foundations bearing the Natori Black Label and who hosted the event with her husband, Kenneth, Natori White Label names, as well as a new line and Jessica Mitchell, Natori’s senior vice presi- of panties called Underneath by Natori. dent of sales, marketing and merchandising. Suggested retail is $55 to $85 for Black Label More than 100 guests from the worlds of bras, $35 to $45 for White Label bras and $15 to finance and manufacturing turned out to sip $23 for panties. champagne, eat sushi and chicken satay and “All of our advertising is now geared toward oogle the signature embroidered bras and the shock value of repositioning Natori founda- panties on models who walked informally tions,” continued Bowman. “It had become a through the wood-paneled private club area. basic product at VF and was never treated as a

Other Saks executives included Steve Sadove, designer line.” The pact with Dana-Co began ERICKSEN BLACK KYLE LABEL SHOWROOM PHOTO BY KEITH SMITH; NATORI PHOTOS BY SAKS PARTY vice chairman of Saks Inc., Anne Caetano, divi- Jan. 1 after a previous 13-year licensing agree- Clockwise from top left: Josie Natori and Fred Wilson; Steve Sadove; Corky sional merchandising manager of intimate ment with VF Corp. expired. First-year whole- Tyler and Joseph Boitano; John Bowman and Dana-Co’s chief executive officer apparel and hosiery, Corky Tyler, vice president sale sales are projected to exceed $12 million Zvi Ertel at the new Natori Black Label foundations showroom; Georgia Frasch, and creative director for home accessories, and for the combined lines, he said. and models show off Natori Black Label foundations at the Saks party. 6 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004

SECTION IIl

INNERWEAR PREVIEW glamour girl s Glamour comes in all shapes and sizes — little teddies, long sweeping gowns and sexy slips.

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INNERWEAR PREVIEW

Bill Blass’ gray Anne Lewin’s cotton robe and blue and white pajama pink Modal and polkadot cotton Lycra spandex pajamas. Ying Li’s red pants with floral silk shirt Millesia’s floral- and pajamas. embroidered black- and-pink nylon bra. PHOTOS BY ROBERT MITRA; MODEL: JUSTINE CUELENAERE/SUPREME; HAIR BY MATEO AND MAKEUP MATEO MODEL: JUSTINE CUELENAERE/SUPREME; HAIR BY MITRA; ROBERT PHOTOS BY NICOLE KEATING ASSISTANT: TRICOMI; FASHION WARREN BOTH AT ROANNA FOR MAKEUP FOREVER,

Unlike many of the season’s lingerie looks that play both the staying-in or going-out game, the purpose of these classic pajamas is to stay cozy indoors. And for fall, polkadots and floral part y prints are favorites. WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004 9 lingerie americas enters fourth edition

By Karyn Monget dex area at its stand with an eight-minute video high- by four speakers: David and Susan Nethero, owners of lighting how its new Body Care promotion merges the Intimacy Lingerie in Atlanta; Sarah Metzger of NEW YORK — “The market is not really easy right now technologies of beauty and the well-being benefits of Mixona, a lingerie boutique in SoHo, and Dan Koch, and companies are worrying a lot, but despite that, we Lycra. The program will outline three themes: “Keep Me owner of the long-established Town Shop, a lingerie will have 15 percent more space for 206 brands from four Fresh,” “Keep My Skin Soft” and “Keep Me Energized.” shop on New York’s Upper West Side. continents and 14 countries,” said Patrice Argain, chief There also will be an ongoing video presentation in The Netheros will discuss how to maximize orders executive officer of the Lingerie Americas trade fair. the restaurant area entitled “Shop Scouting and promote lingerie sales, specifically for breast cancer Argain oversees the French-operated show, which Worldwide,” produced by the Intimagroup unit of The awareness. Metzger will describe merchandising strate- will be in its fourth edition at the landmark Altman Best of Intima magazine. The video will showcase in- gies with a visual presentation, and Koch will stress the Building and Metropolitan Pavilion here. He said 24 novative merchandising and display concepts from importance of professional fittings to increase sales. “new brands will be crossing over” from other trade specialty shops in the international marketplace. Argain said the three-day show will feature such shows for the fall 2004 season. A seminar program on March 1 at 11 a.m. will fea- buyer amenities as Continental breakfasts and gour- Argain said 193 brands showed at the most recent in- ture Marshal Cohen, co-president of NPD met snacks in the afternoon, as well as a complimenta- stallment of the fair, held here in August. Additionally, Fashionworld, who will speak about the latest con- ry lunch on a first-come, first-served basis. The lunch that edition drew 2,175 buyers. Regarding expected re- sumer trends in the U.S. intimate apparel market. On will be extended to exhibitors during the show’s open- tailer turnout for next week’s fair, Argain declined to March 2, a merchandising seminar will be presented ing day on Sunday, he said. give a preregistration figure, saying only, “We’re doing better than last year.” Laurence Teinturier, director of sales for the intimates fair, noted the Cos Cob, Conn.-based show producer has enhanced its marketing and promotional strategies. “We send out 8,000 e- mails and call 2,000 specialty stores seasonally to preregister them,” he said. “Our best adver- tisement is simply to send retailers a list of exhibitors.” Sizing up the mood of retailers, Teinturier observed, “I think they are more optimistic, but we don’t know yet if they will buy more. We are seeing a lot more specialty stores coming in from all over the U.S., not just the East Coast.” A main focus of the Feb. 29- March 2 intimate apparel show will be designer and upscale fashion brands of foundations, daywear, sleepwear, robes and at-homewear from such names as Dolce & Gabbana; Roberto Cavalli; Nicole Miller; JLo, which is produced under license by The Warnaco Group, and two licensees from Carole Hochman Designs — Betsey Johnson and Oscar de la Renta. The thrust of the designer collections will be lifestyle concepts. Other high-end brands showing include Aubade, Chantelle, Cosabella, Eberjey, Eres, Grenier, Hanna & Elita, Lady Marlene, Leigh Bantivoglio, Manuel Canovas, NK Attitude, On Gossamer, Parisa, Simone Perele and Verde Veronica. Up-and-coming labels include Bas Bleu, Cristina Iaia, Khurana, Lilly, Lilo, Love Tanjane, Myla, Pfiff, Pia Hallstrom, Ritamare, Underglam, Chiarugi, Cagi and Zoe San Francisco. Argain said transfers from other trade venues include Alba, Amourette, Belabumbum, Calida, Cocoon by Randi Kristofferson, Cotton Club, Dana, Frances Smily, Kiff Kiff, Levante, Najerika, P.Jamas, Pain de Sucre, Platino, Profili, Puella, Viamode, Wendy Glez, Weston Wear, Yemee and Zazi. Argain further noted that assortments of sleepwear brands will be expanded. “People have told us we are a foundations show. So we have focused much more on sleepwear to satisfy that demand.” The show will again be supported by several of its initial partners: NPD Fashionworld; Best of Intima, an Italian trade publication, and Invista Inc., formerly known as DuPont Textiles and Interiors. Invista will feature a Body Care by Lycra span- 10 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004

SECTION IIl

INNERWEAR PREVIEW

Left: Amourette’s pink nylon baby-doll cami and briefs with tulle ruffles. Here: Cosabella’s lavender, ivory and pink polyester and elastin shorts and camisole.

Sexy little bustiers or camis with matching briefs have become as classic a team as bras and panties. And the newest looks show up in fabrics that range from romantic lace to men’s wear-inspired pinstripes. split decisions and boyshorts. pinstriped nyloncami Hanna’s black-and-blue Lo la C.’ssheerpink-and-browncotton and nyloncamiboyshorts.

PHOTOS BY ROBERT MITRA; MODELS: JUSTINE CUELENAERE/SUPREME, EMILY CAILLON AND ANNA O., BOTH AT NEXT; HAIR BY SEAN JAMES DECUERS AND MATEO AND MAKEUP BY ROANNA, ALL AT WARREN TRICOMI; FASHION ASSISTANT: NICOLE KEATING

Swimwear by Christina ACTIVEWEAR SWIMWEAR INTIMATES HOSIERY CASUAL (508) 674.3585x1386 125 HARTWELLSTREET FALL RIVER,MA.02721 www.radicispandex.com 12 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2004 SECTION IIl

INNERWEAR PREVIEW

No matter how sleek Left: Hanky Panky’s and modern the shape, black-and-white nylon a little bit of lace adds and Lycra spandex instant romance. shorts and lace-edged top. Here: Daniella Simon’s black lace and blue nylon satin cami and briefs. t lace VER AT WARREN TRICOMI; FASHION ASSISTANT: NICOLE PYTEL ASSISTANT: TRICOMI; FASHION WARREN VER AT the grea the

intima-america.com

International Trade Show for the Intimate Apparel Industry

Mark Your Calendar ROANNA FOR MAKEUP FORE MAKEUP BY MATEO; HAIR BY CAILLON/NEXT; MODELS: JUSTINE CUELENAERE/SUPREME, EMILY MITRA; ROBERT PHOTOS BY

INTIMA America, now the largest and most attended intimate apparel It trade show in the United States, returns for Lingerie Market Week STRETCHES February 29 - March 2, 2004. Be sure to mark your calendar for all the INTIMA America 2004 show dates:

• February 29 - March 2, 2004 •August 1-3, 2004

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