Enhancing the in-store experience
for female customers of Tommy Hilfiger
Achieving more together
Foreword
The ‘Anton Dreesmann Leerstoel voor Retailmarketing’Foundation - supported by a group of leading retailers in the Netherlands - has chosen Rabobank as its partner to host and co-organise its annual congress. The partnership started in 2011 and we have prolonged this successful collaboration until at least 2020. We appreciate the opportunity to share our knowledge and views on retail with key players and other stakeholders in the sector.
The January 2017 congress, ‘Retailing Beyond Borders – Working on Transition’took place in the Duisenberg Auditorium in Utrecht. During this congress the ‘Rabobank Anton Dreesmann Thesis Award´ was granted to Samira Darkaoui for her thesis entitled ‘Enhancing the in-store experience for female customers of Tommy Hilfiger´. Part of this award is the publication of the thesis as a book. The result of which is now in front of you.
Capturing and embedding knowledge is important, both for Rabobank as a knowledge-driven financial organisation and for retailers. We therefore support the initiatives of the Foundation to combine scholarly knowledge with retail practice. The ´Rabobank Anton Dreesmann Thesis Award´ is one of these initiatives.
The thesis of Samira Darkaoui, who graduated from the Delft University of Technology, discusses an actual and interesting case at Tommy Hilfiger, the well-known fashion player. The problem for Tommy Hilfiger is the lack of connection that women have with the brand. In order to address this issue, a systematic approach is followed. A wide number of topics is taken into account including brand identity, store interior and (female) consumer behaviour in order to understand the complete shopping experience. Based on the various studies, several recommendations are made, including: (i) introducing a specific womenswear label to improve brand identity, (ii) changing the store interior; this includes digital elements like the development of a Fashion Inspiration Wall; all changes are aimed at a better and more coherent (omnichannel) shopping experience, (iii) increasing customer loyalty and consumer engagement. An implementation plan was set up in order to turn the recommendations into actions. This approach can serve as an example for other (fashion) retailers to address the challenges in their companies.
I trust that the thesis will energise and inspire you to go out and grab the opportunities in the retail market. Kind regards,
Jos Voss
RaboResearch - Sector Specialist Retail March 2017
Foreword
3
Master thesis for Tommy Hilfiger Europe B.V. February 2015 - August 2015
GRADUATION PROJECT BY
Samira Darkaoui | 400805 BSc Architecture, Urbanism and Building Sciences MSc Design for Interaction Industrial Design Engineering Specialization: Retail Design
SUPERVISORY TEAM
Delft University of Technology
dr. H.H.C.M. Christiaans | Chair Applied Ergonomics & Design (AED) Industrial Design Engineering
ir. L.M.M. de Wit | Mentor The Architecture of the Interior Architecture and the Built Environment
Tommy Hilfiger Europe B.V.
ir. D.J.M van Ingen | Mentor Concept Architect, Store & Concept Design
ing. S.E.P. Lucas | Mentor Director Store & Concept Design
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Enhancing the in-store experience
Acknowledgements
These past six months have been a bumpy ride with the occasional highs and (mostly) stressed out lows. However, when I am writing this, I have almost made it and it would not be without the help of others. In this section I would like to thank the people that helped me come this far. Not only those who helped me in completing this thesis, but also those who have been there from the start.
Of course, I am also thankful for all the women, who have participated in my research and took the time to put the effort into contributing to my project. You ensured that I got constructive feedback, resulting in a concept that would really be appealing to the shopping women out there.
I would also like to take this opportunity to thank my best friend, who is extremely dear and special to me. I want to thank you for your constant and continuous support over the years that I have known you. You have always been there for me and helped me come out at the other end when I was getting too stressed. Your presence has kept me from going insane these past few months.
First of all, I want to thank my company mentors Jannelien van Ingen and Suzanne Lucas for giving me the opportunity to work within their team on my graduation project. They have helped me gain extensive retail knowledge and gave me new insights to work with. Jannelien has been great in helping me structuring my thoughts and letting me think out of the box, whereas Suzanne also helped me with maintaining a holistic view on the shopping experience.
Furthermore, I want to thank my parents and other loved ones, who were there for me and have supported me throughout my studies. It is their constant support and belief in me that has helped
- me come this far.
- Next to that, I want to give my gratitude to my two
university coaches, Henri Christiaans and Leontine de Wit. They were the ones that kept me on my toes and stimulated me to research and execute this graduation project to the best of my abilities. You were the ones to reassure me when I was being too much of a perfectionist yet again.
Also, a special thanks to all the employees of the Tommy Hilfiger HQ office, the Tommy Hilfiger stores in Amsterdam, The Hague and Oostende. They enabled me to perform my customer research and user studies and really gave me the idea that I was part of a team, even if it was only for a couple of days.
Acknowledgements
5
Executive Summary
Tommy Hilfiger is one of the world’s leading lifestyle brands. Its style is recognised as classic American cool with a preppy twist. It delivers premium styling, quality and value to its worldwide customers. The brand has a wide variety of collections and products. One of those collections is women’s sportswear (WSW): Womenswear. not find what she was looking for, e.g. the Womenswear area. They often do not know if the store sells female clothes, because is not made clear. They feel that the focus could be more on women.
•
The overall female customer knows the brand Tommy Hilfiger, but does not shop at their stores or even online. It does not fit with their style or it is too expensive. They also have the impression that the brand is more focused on men than on women. They are of the opinion that if Tommy Hilfiger wants to attract more women to their stores, that Womenswear should get a much stronger identity.
The problem definition lies in the lack of connection that women have with the brand. There is a stronger focus on the men’s division, which results in a more prominent location instore, namely the front. This causes many female customers to think that that specific store does not sell Womenswear. All of this results in a lower conversion rate for women.
Even though there are three types of customers, all customers can enter the store with a different mind state: locating, exploring or dreaming. However, it can be concluded that customers, who enter a Tommy Hilfiger store with a locating mind state, will in most cases always return to the store. This has to do with the fact, that a large part of the loyal customers enter the store with a locating mind state. They know beforehand which brand they want to visit that day. However, to attract other customers, the exploring and dreaming mind state should be addressed better.
To approach this problem, several studies were conducted. They can be roughly subdivided into three categories: brand identity, interior specific and overall shopping experience. A brand identity study was carried out to see how both employees and customers perceive the brand. The brand is known to have a high brand awareness, but the image and identity is not properly conveyed. Employees have an inconsistent opinion about both the product and target group, whereas customers are rather neutral or have negative things to say about the brand.
To address the exploring and dreaming mind state, a holistic, overall shopping experience should be created. This will make the brand more appealing to women and will ensure them to stay longer instore, which will again result in a higher conversion rate. This means that the interaction between the customer and the brand should be inspiring, exploring, involving, effortless and intuitive.
Based on the customer journey in The Hague, three types of customers could be defined:
•
The loyal Tommy customer is satisfied with the brand and its products. In most cases they come for the product (and brand) and will buy it if they like it.
•
Bouncers are customers who enter the store and leave within 10 seconds. In most cases the bouncer left quickly, because she could
To achieve this holistic shopping experience, the whole customer journey should be taken into account.
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Enhancing the in-store experience
Therefore, five steps in the customer journey are defined to be part of the holistic vision: 01. Entering the store 02. Browsing 03. Fitting 04. Checkout
Subsequently, with such a holistic vision it is difficult to see what and when everything can be incorporated. Therefore, an implementation plan is set up to give the company insights into the best possible approach. The implementation is split into three phases:
- 05. Leaving the store
- 01. Brand identity - Introducing Hilfiger Woman
and (re)connecting with both loyal and new customers.
02. Customer experience - Implementing the proposals to address the exploring and dreaming mind state.
Before even implementing a holistic vision in-store, women should first feel connected to the brand. Therefore a recommendation has been made to create an own Womenswear label, named Hilfiger Woman. This will be a positive adjustment to the female customer as she will feel a more personal bond with the brand.
03. Customer loyalty - Maintaining connection with customers and staying up-to-date.
The customer journey starts with an attractive, interesting shop window and inviting entrance, where other products of Tommy Hilfiger are also shown. Next, the customer will walk towards the women’s area to browse. When they are browsing, it is the ultimate chance to inspire them more and let them explore other options of which they maybe never thought about. Therefore, a focus moment is created to where the customer is drawn, named the Fashion Inspiration Wall. This Wall consists of a fixture with clothing items and large digital screens, behind it showing dynamic content and the latest fashion looks. When the customer grabs an item, a complete outfit will be shown on a model on-screen. She can flip through fashion combinations and pick a look she likes best. After she has collected all the items she wants to try on, a pleasant and comfortable fitting room experience is waiting for her. Having a smart mirror in the fitting room allows her to change the lighting, view suggestions, etc. After she has paid for her items, she can enjoy a drink at the bar, where she can share her latest looks in the Tommy Hilfiger app.
Executive Summary
7
Table of contents
- Foreword
- 3
- 5
- Acknowledgements
Executive Summary Introduction
6
10
- Part I - Analysis
- 14
15 44 56 77 80
01. About Tommy Hilfiger 02. Competitors of Tommy Hilfiger 03. Customers of Tommy Hilfiger 04. Retail context 05. Overall conclusions
Part II - Ideation & vision
06. Design goal
83
84 86 91
07. Idea generation 08. Vision & requirements
- Part III - Final Design
- 116
117 122 125 130 133
09. Concept ‘Fashion Inspiration Wall’ 10. First user study 11. Adjustments 12. Final user study 13. Recommendations ‘Fashion Inspiration Wall’
Part IV - implementation
14. Applications in store design 15. Implementation plan
136
137 144
Part V - Reflection
16. Project reflection
150
151
References Glossary
155 160 162 163
Colophon Disclaimer
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Enhancing the in-store experience
Table of contents
9
Introduction
10 Enhancing the in-store experience
Tommy Hilfiger is one of the world’s leading lifestyle brands. Its style is recognised as classic American cool with a preppy twist. It delivers premium styling, quality and value to its worldwide customers. The brand has a wide variety of collections as well as a range of products. One of those collections is women’s sportswear (WSW): Womenswear.
New sportswear concept explanation
As was mentioned above, a new Sportswear concept was developed. The main objectives of the concept were as follows (Tommy Hilfiger, 2014b):
•••
Light, airy and fresh look More femininity in the women’s area Customer service and retail experience.
The brand has built a wide-ranging distribution network in over 90 countries. Currently the brand has more than 1,400 retail stores in North America, Latin America, Europe and the Asia Pacific area (“Company overview,”n.d.). This resulted in global retail sales of $6.7 million in 2014 (PVH, 2015).
Figure 01 on page 12 shows the general store layout of the new SPW concept. The store is divided into four areas: windows, Menswear, the Bridge and Womenswear. Having the Bridge as the center element makes it possible to divide the store into different areas with each having its own atmosphere (Tommy Hilfiger, 2014a). The Bridge is where all service-based options take place. Customers can try their items on, pay for them and enjoy a cup of coffee. They also have access to the Tommy world due to the presence of an iPad (Tommy Hilfiger, 2014a).
Problem definition
Although Tommy Hilfiger is a lifestyle family brand, women do not really have a strong connection with the brand. A lack of connection that normally draws the female customer in-store and the fact that in most cases women do not know that Womenswear is sold as there is a stronger focus on the Men’s division (which is often placed in front of the store), result in a lower conversion rate for Womenswear. The Tommy Hilfiger stores are currently more masculine than feminine. The company has already been working on responding to this problem by developing a new Sportswear concept and making it more feminine by using lighter colours, lighter fixtures, different materials, etc.
In Figure 02 on page 12 a few renders of the store are shown to give an impression as to how the standard store would look.
Introduction 11
SPW B/C Zoning
General store layout
MENSWEAR
fashion collecꢀon
core products accessories
BRIDGE
service desk
coffee
WOMENSWEAR
fashion collecꢀon
core products
- payment
- accessories
Tommy.com dressing rooms accessories
Figure 01.
General store layout of the new SPW concept (Tommy
Hilfiger, 2014f).
Figure 02.
Renders of the new SPW concept. From left to right and from top to bottom: the façade, the Bridge, WSW accessories and WSW area (Tommy Hilfiger, 2014f)
12 Enhancing the in-store experience
Assignment & design goal
The assignment of this graduation project consists of two parts. The first part is about a study into the factors why female customers do not feel connected to the Tommy Hilfiger brand. The second part consists of addressing this problem by coming up with solutions and designs, which will enable female customers to feel more connected to the brand. Therefore, the design goal is to enhance the in-store experience for female customers in order to keep them longer in-store, resulting in a higher conversion rate. The designs should fit within the newly developed vision for Sportswear, so it can be rolled out as a part of the concept.
Report outline
This report will start with a thorough analysis of the company, its competitors and context and last, but not least, of its female customers. After the analysis, the report shall delve into the conceptualisation part, where conclusions of the analysis phase are translated into ideas. Here a holistic vision will be presented as well as one concept, which is further developed. To follow up on the conceptualisation phase, an implementation plan will be presented to give recommendations as to how and when the parts of the holistic vision should be implemented. Finally, the report will end with a project reflection, which will give the reader insight into the thesis trajectory and its up and downs.
Introduction 13
Part I
Analysis
01. About Tommy Hilfiger 02. Competitors of Tommy Hilfiger 03. Customers of Tommy Hilfiger 04. Retail context 05. Overall conclusions
14 Enhancing the in-store experience
01. About Tommy Hilfiger
Before delving further into the scope of this thesis, it is vital to go back to the basics. This chapter entails the company’s heritage and identity, and ends with a critical analysis about the brand and elements in retail.
Company
This paragraph will give the reader insights into the founding of Tommy Hilfiger and how it has grown from a two-person to a global, corporate company.
History
The company is named after its founder, Tommy Hilfiger. At age 17 (1968) he bought 20 pairs of old jeans from the backstreets of New York City. He did this together with his friend Larry Stegerman and sold these old jeans from the trunk of their car. In 1969 they opened their first store, called People’s Place (Rosee, 2011). He wanted to bring “cool big city styles”from New York to his friends in Upstate New York (“Biography,”n.d.). It became rather successful, which resulted in several People’s Place stores on college campuses over New York state (Hilfiger, 2013). Their clients were young people in love with music and fashion. They also dressed
Figure 03.
Tommy Hilfiger working in people’s place (Hilfiger, 2013)
famous people, like Bruce Springsteen. Bands from over the world came to People’s Place, which
- offered the latest trends (Rosee, 2011).
- Hilfiger started his own label in 1985: Tommy
- Hilfiger (“Biography,”n.d.).
- There were ten People’s Place stores before it was
declared bankrupt. It turned out to be the best lesson for Tommy Hilfiger. He got back on his feet and wanted to create his own brand, where he wanted to do something with preppy clothes. Subsequently the idea of “preppy with a twist” followed, which was actually a more colourful, more casual and comfortable look (Hilfiger, 2013). Together with the support of Mohan Murjani, who wanted to launch a men’s clothing line, Tommy
The elements of his first designs, namely the relaxed and youthful attitude, are still characteristic for every design collection that followed. For almost 30 years, Tommy Hilfiger brought classic, cool American garments to customers all over the world. It is the foundation that lies within this global brand (“Biography,”n.d.). After starting as a menswear label, Tommy Hilfiger launched its women’s line in 1996 at over 400
Analysis 15
major department stores (“Tommy Hilfiger”, n.d.; “Tommy Hilfiger Corporation”, 2003). The women’s line was derived from the men’s line, as it was mostly sportswear: the casual style to wear to work (“Tommy Hilfiger Corporation”, 2003). At that moment it made Hilfiger one of the few menswear designers to incorporate a women’s line into the mix. Over the years it has become clear, that even though there is a women’s line (hereinafter referred to as Womenswear), the men’s line is still the main selling point of Tommy Hilfiger: it was more stable. Besides that, customers were complaining that Womenswear was becoming too trendy and did not fit well into the style of Tommy Hilfiger. After these complaints, Tommy Hilfiger changed the line and went back to the basic preppy, though modern, look (“Tommy Hilfiger,”n.d.). portfolio of “iconic lifestyle apparel brands,”but Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger still represent most of the company’s profit with 85% (“Our Company”, n.d.). An overview of all brands can be found in Appendix A. PVH uses its infrastructures around the world, enabling brands to grow in established markets as well as letting them expand into underdeveloped markets and enter new markets. PVH is about harnessing the brand’s identity and producing products, which fit into the brand’s portfolio as well as connecting with its customers by developing deep relationships (“Our Strategy”, n.d.).
Profile
In 2010 Tommy Hilfiger was acquired by the Philips – Van Heusen Corporation (PVH). PVH is one of the largest global apparel brands, focused on global growth and brand building and at the same time staying true to their own core values, seen in Figure 04 (“Our Company”, n.d.). Over the years PVH has acquired several companies, with the big acquisitions of Calvin Klein in 2003 and Tommy Hilfiger in 2010 among others. These acquisitions have led to a diverse
individuality
partnership
passion
integrity
accountability
Figure 04.
PVH’s logo and its core values.
16 Enhancing the in-store experience
CEO
chief executive officer
ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE
- CSO
- CBO
- CFO
- COO
- chief operating officer
- chief strategy officer
- chief brand officer
- chief financial officer
PRESIDENT BRAND PRESIDENT COUNTRY
- CFO
- COO
- chief operating officer
- chief financial officer
- ANAGEMENT
- MANAGEMENT
- DEPARTMENTS
- DIVISIONS
- COUNTRIES