HO ME D R ESSMA K NG A D E E A M SY.

MMA M HO O PE R E . ,

’ " One o f th e A s s o ciate E di to rs o f Th e Ladies H o m e fo um af.

Seco nd E i io n i d t R ev s ed and E nlar ed. , g

NE W YO R K

THE F E D E R A P I I L R NT NG CO .

1 903

A N INTR O DUCT ION.

One might style this an explanation or excuse for the book be be fo r ing in existence , but there seemed to a place it and the author is trying to fill that niche after an experience o f eighteen and years with dry goods , dressmaking the individual needs f F I o . women rom my large correspondence , know that it is of general interest to an immense number o f women w h o are obliged to do home dressmaking without any previous training . It has not been found advisable to illustrate current to o u fashions , as they change q ickly to become standard , but the o f main principles cutting, fitting and finishing, like the brook , go on forever, and these once learned make even the race with F n H o e. Dame ashion an easy ave patience , perseverance and n care a d you will accomplish wonders . Surely it is worth the trial if you only learn to gown yourself economically and be “ ” c o m in l l g y . Make haste s owly in dressmaking . In these days there are many conveniences offered to the

' wa o f no tio ns im l e home dressmaker in the y , materials , sewing p ments , etc . , but very few are able to try them all and are thus unable to judge which is really best of the many fo r sale ; for this reason I have given the names o f several articles through t f y his book , knowing them to be first in their line and satis actor in every respect , and though some may be unfamiliar to my read ers , when once tried they will prove indispensable . A desire to be well dressed is inborn with every woman , and man as well , and why not follow this desire unless it cause one to neglect home duties or induces one to spend more than can be afforded upon one ’ s wardrobe ? When neatly and becomingly attired a woman is happier and more at ease in her manner when o f o in the presence others , and remember that it costs no m re

' to dress becomingly than it does to do n th e wrong materials and no i s H colors . I f you do t know what becoming and suitable ome u Dressmaking w ill tell yo . E special attention is given in this little work to the dressing of very stout , extremely short and unduly slender figures . All if h o w do figures may be improved we only know to it , and I trust in a practical manner to make this possible for my read ers . Many terms used by dressmakers are of an unknown tongue m s o o f to an a ateur, I have added a list definitions that I hope s will a sist my readers and prove , like the rest of this work , a n ” frie d in need . CONTE NT S.

C HA PTER . I — H AT I EE E I N EWI N W s N G ” . D D S

— SE P P P II . To U A ER ATTERN S CORRECTLY

—Ho "v TO fEAR A COR SET III . “

—To CUT AN F IT A SK IRT IV . D

— IIA T Y I V . W O U SH O ULD K N O W O F B LAC K S L K S — VI . CU TTI N G AN D F ITTIN G WAISTS — VIL T II E A CCESSORIES O F A WAIST

—T H E SE F AIRC H . O H OT VIII . U L .

IX —T I—I E E . CORRECT US O F VELVET —F X . IN ISH I N G A WAIST

—H E A LT II XI . AND STYLE

- B M XII . ECO I N G COLORS AND F A B RIC S —M XIII . ATERN ITY GOWN S — M XIV . O RNA ENTAL H A N D SEWIN G —T R XV . O EN OVATE MATERIALS

XVI — C EAN E LACE F UR E T C To L S S , S ,

- T H E F S . XVII . CARE O GLOVES AND SH OE — XVIII . WHAT Is CORRECT MOURN IN G

IX —D F X . E IN ITI ON S NOT GEN ERALLY — XX . CORRECT GOWN I N G F O R A LL O CCASIO NS

O PYR IG H T B Y M A H PER C M . OO E M .

1 903 .

1 0 HO ME D R E SSMA K IN G .

CHAPTER I.

WHAT IS NE E DE D IN SE WIN G .

When commencing home dressmaking keep in View that this new is an art , and the artist making a , stylish , becoming gown is N o ne w orthy of the best of tools and plenty o f them . o person has the Opportunity of trying every new notion that makes its

y appearance , and yet man of them are great helps in a sewing

F o r room . this reason I have given the names of several articles in this book , knowing them to be first of their kind and perfectly satisfactory ; some may be unfamiliar , but after trying them I am a confident that they will be as tried and true help , necessary to th — n - e work basket and sewi g room .

The work - basket should have a cover to keep the dust out and contain the actual working to Ol s "with the supplies in a co v ” ered bo x or drawer . Among the must haves are a tracing wheel and white and colored crayons for marking paper patterns . S ff ovran pins of di erent sizes , an assortment of needles , small

y h piece of wax to draw thread through at times , an emer cus ion for needles that rust in perspiring hands , belting tape in white

n - interlin and gray in silk , cotto or mixed , the Paquin hair cloth G ing, the ranger hooks and eyes , invisible and otherwise ; flat and n rou d bodkins , for running in ribbon , drawing strings , etc and

e . a strong , flat linen tape m asure Use only the best of sewing silk and twist fo r hand and n H m in a d . e wa S machine stitching , that of M y ons in black and a large variety of colors is smooth , even and strong ; their crochet and embroidery floss are also necessary for a well - fur h n - n n ished sewi g basket , as so much is used in the or ame tal hand w n n A o . l ork now see gowns silver thimble costs but litt e now , n n o t n . and does stai the finger if kept clea Keep large , not heavy , n shears for cutti g, smaller scissors for general use , pointed H a S. . . b scissors for ripping , and h ve them sharp ; the M ias a velveteen skirt binding , plain or with braid top , is also among the good things prepared for the woman determined to have all the details of her gown up to date .

1 1 A reliable sewing - machine is the most imp ortant article in o ne to o i any dressmaking, and cannot be careful in select ng a

its machine , as up on action depends the result of the work ; it must be kept well oiled and cleaned ; it should be easy to under stand , light to run , speedy , doing fine and heavy work , and prov ’ an ing a saving in time d a preserver of the operator s health , all

S - of which is accomplished by the Singer ewing machine , which has sung its way into many a dressmaker ’ s heart for the help h a it s been . A supply o f black and white cotton and the strong luster A u thread are necessary . lapboard is a convenience , and sho ld o ne l s o have side hollowed out to fit the form ; cut on a low tab e , you can sit down to it , and to continue your comfort have a stool

o ne : for resting the feet , as steadily sitting in position is tiresome “ ” - fit a skirt form is convenient for hanging a skirt , but the real ting must be done on the wearer .

Patterns must be used , and the May Manton will be found per

e - fittin s o fe t g , stylish and of advanced ideas , and economical in th e price as to be within the reach of all . When sewing , hands — must be kept clean and smooth , so use a pure soap the Ivory f e ree from alkali , and on a warm day occasionally dust a littl ld . o talcum powder over the hands Keep trimmings , scraps , lin

. o ings , etc , in b xes for future use , as they may be worth reno ’ v atin — y g and using in the far famed seven ears time , when all things are supposed to have found their use . Among the necessary articles the Omo shield must be men tio ned , as there are many shields for protecting the waist , but o ne is only Omo , which light , durable , impervious to perspiration , an fin odorless d without rubber . In the chapter relating to the ish ing of waists the proper manner of sewing on shields is ex m a plained . The Clinton Safety pin is a convenience wherever it y is be , which explains its necessity in the workbasket . It not extravagance to have good tools and thus turn out better work .

- o If there is a regular sewing ro m it should be bright and airy , be carpetless , have a closet for hanging partly made articles and shelves and drawers for the store of conveniences and indisp en ew sables that a dressmaker may soon surround herself with . S l o w — o ne in a , armless rocking chair , and have a high at the machine ; better work is done with the worker comfortable than

n trv in otherwise , and I wa t each one g to make a gown to achieve s uccess .

1 2 CHAPTER II. Y T o USE PAPE R PATTE RNS CORRE CTL . That there is a right and wrong way of doing may be plainly shown in the manner of using paper patterns , which are of immense assistance when of the correct cut in fitting as well as H design . ave the right patterns , use them as they should be and

y home dressmaking becomes simple to understand , eas to aecom lis h p , economical to carry out and becoming in its results , alto gether a charming combination .

A fits as pattern perfectly if the figure is perfect , it is fitted

to and graded a model of exact measurements , but there are few such figures outside of models , as all of us have little peculiarities o f o ur o n t w which an average pa tern cannot give , but a pattern of perfect cut needs few alterations for any figure , and this exact perfection in fit i s one o f the characteristics of the May Manton in patterns , which are also of advanced styles , economical quan tities and reasonable in price .

fo r To measure a waist pattern , place the tape line over the fullest part o f the bust close up under the arms and draw it

F o r s ix snugly . a skirt , measure the hips inches below the waist line , remove the belt and measure the waistline straight around ; draw these measures tightly . Sleeves are measured around the upper part of the arms , and a pattern is also sold by the bust 32 22 . : measure The proportionate measures are Bust , ; waist , ; 3 n B 9 B 34 2 4 43 . hips , 5 inches . ust , ; waist , ; hips , i ches ust .

36 2 6 4 4- 0 30 57 5 . s ; waist , ; hips , inches Bu t , ; waist , ; hips , inches . But American figures are more slender in the waistline than other nations . Patterns for children are ordered by the breast measure and ff age , as those of an age so often di er in size ; after two years girls generally increase two inches to two years in breast 1 1 9 2 0 measure , from year, inches ; two years , inches ; four years , 2 2 2 4 30 inches ; six years , inches ; twelve years , inches ; fourteen 31 33 e’ n . h years , 5 inches ; sixtee years , 5 inches C ildr n s patterns ’ - are graded every two years after two year size , and women s are E even sizes only , every two inches bust or waist measure . very pattern has o n its envelope instructions for cutting and putting together, but the home dressmaker must not only follow these , s but exerci e care , neatness and precision in details , in order to r u obtain the best esf lts . These accurate patterns do no t allow

1 3 s but eams , the usual allowance is half an inch on all seams , except the is underarm and shoulders , where an inch left , the material proving the guide , as a raveling fabric requires a wider seam than a firm material .

All plaits , gathers , etc . , are plainly marked by crosses and X perforations . Plaits are formed by placing single cross ""on a single perforation "O", double crosses "XX"indicate where h the garment is gat ered , and triple crosses "XXX"denote that th e edge s o marked must be placed o n the fold of the goods .

Darts , tucks and wide plaits are marked by lines of perforations and are formed by these corresponding lines being brought H together and stitched to position . ems are indicated by lines of perforations , and lines of larger perforations Show where the pattern must be placed on the straight thread of the goods . This i oo s very important , as it prevents askew seams and cr ked parts of a gown that even finished modistes allow from careless placing of patterns on the goods . After securing a pattern to the goods

So n with the sharp , smooth vra pins trace it with a tracing wheel

c ut w and n if vou cannot ithout one . use large cutti g shears for ni n conve e ce .

H o ne y o ur s — ave some to take all of measure waistline , hips , t and leng h front , back sides for a skirt ; for sleeve , leng th inside and outside of the arm , from elbow to wrist and to Shoulder , around top of arm and wrist ; for the waist , the bust , waist and

~ collar around , leng th of front from lower edge of collar to waist t n n line , same in the back , leng h u der the arms , across back betwee th e armholes ; compare these measures with y o ur May Manton

nv n patterns and mark a needed alteratio s . Do not interfere with n n and n the outli e of a pattern , as the desig er cutter k ow better th e n y shape ecessary to give not only the correct fit , but the st le ,

- - be that ever to desired effect . Some garments are better s haped or built up o n th e intending w n earer . Trimmi g should be pinned on when garment is on the and n . owner , the idea thus had of the article whe finished As few figures are of model measurements , the patterns mav some times prove long for the breadth ; never cut away length at the to t o f a n d p or bo tom pattern , as that e tirely destroys the intende f . y r e fect Take awa from the middle of the pattern if a ski t . waist , sleeve , etc . , or , if necessary , add to at the same part . thus preserving the outline . Yo u can mark through perforations with F rench chalk or y no t an n crayons , as the do stain v material . More i formation

1 4 regarding these reliable patterns is given in the di fferent chapters o f devoted to cutting and fitting separate portions a gown , and I w ish to place the kno wledge before my readers just where and when they need it , after the general information given in this R chapter . ead the instructions given with each pattern and o examine the latter carefully before cutting the go ds , then con and w tinue with attention , success ill be yours , and the problem of dressmaking solved .

CHAPTER III. A SE HOW T o WE AR COR T.

i i i s u Wear t as t should be fitted and t improves the figure , p ports the back and adds to the health ; but a corset loses these

N - fittin go od points if worn as a misfit . o one can have a perfect g gown unless it is fitted over the corsets especially adapted to that i s figure . It now conceded that five classes will describe the

: figures met with Tall and slender, short and slender, very large

ri - fi ured n in width and height , short and f ll g , the average woma

36 - 24 42 5 6 1 30 about inch bust , waist , hips , feet inches , weight to 1 40 pounds . To get the correct size fo r a corset measure the waistline snugly outside of the dress and take one three inches smaller . If

l s o o f necessary to bui d up the form , do without the appearance

A - using artificial means . light weight flexible corset fits itself f easily to the orm , but a full figure needs a firmer corset than a

and fo r - slender woman requires , that reason the popular priced corsets at $1 are not entirely advocated fo r women o f unusual

- figures , who will find the higher priced grades more serviceable “ ” fo r B them , while others will find wonderful value in the W . .

fo r 1 no w s o . corset $ , which gives the erect military bearing stylish “ ” A f r s o . B . a guide the W corsets to buy , the following table : 9 3 1 f r n No . 7 o e is given , at $ , is advocated a tall , sl der figure , f 92 6 i d o No . s with other corsets the same cut , at a apted 1 for a short , slender figure , in the popular $ class , with more 91 9 1 i 2 . No . s elaborate desig ns at and $ , at $ , especially fo r n recommended the very large , stout woma , who will find corsets of a similar cut and effect and better materials at to $5; and it pays a person with a full figure to buy corsets of a good

1 5 as price , this figure is hard on a corset and needs durable boning 98 9 — ur N o . fi ed and material . for a short , full g woman may be

No 92 4 is 1 f to 3. had for $ , with better grades rom $ . the 1 “ article for the average figure , who finds the $ corset all her ” 3 fancy painted , but higher grades are prepared at to $ .

The two illustrations in this chapter Show the popular No s . 92 “ 4 91 9 o f . y and the W B . corsets and the erect carriage the t give , and in order to obtain the best resul s with such a corset ,

first find the waistline and fit the corset to it ; use two flat laces , l n silk or linen , and lace both from the center of the waist i e , one

r up and the other down . F o the first few days a corset should not be laced tightly ; let it stretch a little and mold itself to the figure and then tighten the laces ; but a corset should not be worn s o tight that the wearer cannot feel her body move in it . When

the art . necessary , alter p over the hips by the lower lace only A Do not use a rubber lacing, as it stretches the dress seams . corset steel will not press into the wearer if the correct corset is

properly laced . Pull the strings on each side at the waistline after

obtaining the waist ; the straight - front adjusts itself nicely over a s f run n flat abdomen ; if posses ed of a ull one , a hand dow the front o f the corset from the to p and gently li ft it up into the

1 6 t f space created by the straigh ront at the waistline , and then tie the strings around the waist in front . Yo u cannot lace a corset and keep it there ; it must be untied every night , the laces loosened and the next morning the corset

f . G as care ully put on , waist and laces adjusted , as before ive few and a moments to this task do it properly , your improved r ’ form amply repaying for all trouble . It is a pa t of woman s mis sion to make herself as graceful and as healthful as possible , and the right corset , rightly put on , will do it . — N The medium high bust allows ature to act , but if the figure — must be filled out use a light weight shirt waist extender o r wear f the bust ru fles made of bobbinet , about three , sewed to the shield — shaped piece of lawn , with shoulder straps of white tape ; this

f bo x— can be washed and ironed , the ru fles being triple plaited and

- . S of single thickness , overlapping each other mall hip pads also o ut build the figure , and there are very few that a tiny bustle will

n - o f not improve , as many are flat at the ce ter back , even when a

full figure . Any figure can be improved with the corset espe i l c a ly adapted for the characteristics shown by that figure . A slender person can be “ improved ” with less trouble than a stout

figure may be reduced , but do not despair , as each may be gradu

ally remodeled with patience , the corset and time . f Keep two corsets and change for comfort and appearance . I

- f inclined to grow round shouldered , the erect e fect given by the “

B . Yo u W . cut will correct this . can secure a longer waist “ with a straight front . A properly fitted corset truly fits like a ” an glove , does not show across the top outside of the gown , d

feels perfectly comfortable . A corset hook sewn to the center front two inches below the waistline is co nvenient for keeping the lo w n skirts , cutting them dow as a dip , and thus apparently redue f n ing the size o the waist and increasing its le gth . The F oster hose supporters may be worn in the front o r over n the sides , but wor they should be for their comfort and hygienic unheath principles , as garters are passé from their discomfort and and a fulness , as the hose supporters are arr nged nowadays they

greatly assist in keeping women healthful . Those fastening in front assist in keeping the corset pulled down over a large abdo the men , but many do not like this , and wear them on

sides over the hips , individual fancy governing the choice .

The long- hipped corset is supposed to give a more slender a appe rance .

1 7 CHAPTER IV . K T o CUT A N D F IT A S IRT .

Six n measures should be take for a skirt , front , back , each and side , waistline around hips six inches below the waist and compare these with the Mav Manton paper pattern ; do not alter the outline of your pattern ; if the pattern is too long or to o Short kneeline insert a piece at the or take from at the same place , keeping the s hape as originally made by the designer top and

. t bottom Of course , what leng h you add to a gore is added to each and every one , and exactly at the same place .

In fitting a stout figure , make the hips the objective point in p the pattern around the hips , with the front gore dropped

s o until it hangs straight , raising the back and sides that the inverted plaits exactly meet at the center—back th en fit the seams to the waist and pin the belt on before trimming o ff the skirt .

o f S In dressmaking , it is convenient to have a lot ovran pins

a to loose in small sauce plate , as they are easy pick up and the F to o f plate does not soon become misplaced . inish the p a skirt before the lower edge .

To overcome the stretching of a circular - cut skirt or very

fo r few sleazy materials , hang the garment on a form or hook a a days until the m terial settles into shape , after stitching the seams and putting on the belt ; then shape the bottom if it is uneven and finish the skirt . If your material is to be s ponged do n it before cutting it by putti g a wet , not dripping, sheet over

w ro n er ectl dr the g side and ironing it until p f y y, rubbing the iron

u - - w in even p and do n strokes . The seams are pressed before binding a skirt .

F o r a slender person fit the skirt as before , though the front n does not eed the same drop , but the back edges are pinned together and the plaits laid to fall into straight lines , not to

. separate If the skirt has hip darts , they are pinned in place on and the wearer , stitched pressed flat . To get th e exact length

a a g , a o a of w lkin Skirt which should h ng even all ar und , t ilors

use a yardstick and measure from the floor up against the skirt . marking the proper height with chalk o r a pin every few inches ; in fo r around turn on this line basting , and try the skirt o n i aga n . n Many heavy skirts are left u lined , being worn over a drop — , petticoat and these skirts need half inch seams , which are

1 8 pressed open and each edge bound w ith a tiny bias strip o flim ng

- w stitched on th e machine . R aveling goods are safer ith a F —a n rench seam , also called bag ti y seam taken on the right s o side , turned to the wrong side and a second seam taken there , n H . there are no raw edges . a dsome silks , etc , have the edges w n n n bound ith silk bindi g , or a strip of the li i g ; wash goods are t overcas .

In cutting out the dress goods , keep the grain of the goods even with the guiding marks on the pattern . A skirt should be

- of a light weight , whether seamed in with the lining , or worn “ " over a drop : the tailors advocate the former , the dressmakers th e and latter , , personally , I agree with the tailors that a seamed in w lining is easier to make , makes the outside ear better and is n h In C as . more onve ient to wear , if the skirt to be held up front , a dressy skirt just escapes the floor and h as a dip at the back of 5 to 1 5 inches ; a walking skirt is 1 5 to 2 inches above the floor all around . The manner of applying haircloth , the curved

o r n fo r - in Paquin straight , is explai ed in Chapter VIII , seamed ” or drop skirts .

Another style has lining and outside made separate , seams pressed and then overcast , interlining sewed to the lining and the two caught together down each seam ; or the outside is seamed up , the interlining basted to it , and each piece of lining n“ basted dow the seams , one edge even , the other and the upper

n bl inds titc h d one turned dow and e neatly . Then the lower edge of the dress goods is turned under and the lining blinds titch ed G to it . When selecting a cotton lining see that the ilbert stamp is o n the selvage ; their fast - bl ac k lining s are thoroughly known and relied upon . Two Granger hooks and eyes can be sewed half- way down

o r the opening placket hole at the back , which should be fully 1 0 l inches long, faced narrowly and plaited in with the ining and outside , which prevents any gaping . A favorite way of finishing — the top o f a skirt fo r a stout o r Short waisted person is to simply o r t o f pipe cord the edge wi h a piece the goods , which allows it n to fall low er o the waistline .

F o r us e as a belt the lining cut bias or straight , the form needs , and this can only be ascertained by trying a band ; if a “ ” dip is wished in front , and a moderate one is very becoming,

1 1 as V s cut } inches a at the center front , loping it toward the

P o f t e o f sides slightly . ut a stitch white hr ad in the center the belt and hold the skirt toward you when basting . Allow a lap

1 9 h two G of inches at the back of the belt , fastening it wit ranger hooks and eyes o f a large size sewed at the lower edge of the

is u e belt . A belt sewed on the wrong side , t rned ov r and in and

I - stitched down on the right side , being Pf inch wide when done .

v A heavy silk belt , if used , coming with wo en edges , does not

o f t need turning in ; some tailors face the top a skirt wi h lining , to apply a silk belt flatly the right side and stitch it there , being o r o n o f single . Put a loop of tape lining each side the belt n ear the back to hang the skirt up by . f A skirt o many gores adds to the apparent height . The binding o f a skirt is sufficiently important to have a full explana fi h H . o f t e S . ts to tion same . The . M bias velveteen binding is o r to any skirt, and to be applied to the material itself the “ ” f to drop , if that is worn su ficiently long really protect the

o f to us e fo r th e skirt . The easiest way binding is the machine to s ew first sewing, though it is neater and more workmanlike a n L binding o by hand . av the right side of the binding next to

o f o n l the right side the goods and baste smoothly , a lowing a full inc h ~ o f th e dress goods and lining to turn up and a fourth o f h f S o n an inc o the binding . titch the machine and turn the bind

o n ing and dress goods over the wrong side , blindstitch the skirt down and baste the velveteen down near the edge , allowing the merest trifle o ft h e folded edge to project evenly below the skirt

o f h em itself . Then baste the raw edge the binding down and it s o o f i o n o r that none the stitches w ll show the right side , her

o f - o n ringbone it down ; run a row hand stitches the wrong side , f o f B 4 inch above the olded edge velveteen . The Velvet raid

th e o f s binding is applied flatly to wrong side the skirt , howing

A e o f the velvet }; inch b low the edge , and the upper edge braid ’ H em in a s hemmed down with w y silk twist . The same directions will apply likewise to the brush braid bindings . ’ The tailor s favorite manner o f binding is to fold the bia s velveteen binding in the middle and lay it against th e right side s — of the skirt , with the raw edge even and the lining not the n — i terlining left separate . After basting toge ther stitch and turn f f the edges up , leaving the olded edge o velveteen to project o f Th ' l inin i nearly a fourth an inch below the skirt . e g s then

w r th e a' basted do n ove raw edges , hemmed , and warm iron o f applied over a piece thin crinoline , which saves the goods from any accidental scorching . Wh ile this manner of binding has many advocates , I must confess a preference fo r the first s tyle h h described , in w ic the velveteen also answers fo r a narrow

2 0 w facing . Tailors also apply skirt braids in this manner , hile dressmakers use them flat against the skirt and the upper edge

s ee o r is hemmed down . In any case , that the velveteen braid really a protection by being fully one - eighth o f an inch below the dress edge .

No h o w matter carefully a skirt is cut , fitted and made , it must be worn over corsets fitting correctly over the hips and

i s abdomen , and over a properly made petticoat , which the

fo r to the B . e S reason drawing attention W . cors t and orosis “ ” - n n u ready made petticoat . If a drop lini g is wor , it m st be

' as th e are no w wide, skirts cut much wider and the extension flounce needs the haircloth interlining to keep the dress from at clinging about the feet . Many figures need a tiny bustle the

- to w center back give a rounding form just belo the waist , and

- the skirt should be fitted over it if worn . The long hipp ed l o f r corsets wi l decrease the size a full figu e , and the Skirt should “ ”

t . be easy there , not skin tigh “ “ ” f o n The ru fles drop skirts are accordion plaited , cut bias and hemmed o r bound narrowly with velveteen to keep them

f but i s o f flu fy . The plaiting cuts the material , pretty , course ; a bias ruffle needs once and a third more o f the material than the ' space to be co v ered ; accordion plaiting requires three tim es as R uf s much . fles are often finished with pinked ruches , and the e “ ” e o n o f S are specially attractive drops Pres de oie lining , which n a d e fo r e l us e. wears well , looks better fe ls best such a gen ra Sew o n S t skirt seams the inger machine , wi h a moderate ten

‘ s io n; bas te these seams from the to p do wn hold the gored to side next you .

at CHAPTE R V.

AT Y r B A IL WH O U SHOULD KN OW o L CK S KS.

The beauty of silk attire has never been doubted , and the woman has vet to be found who does no t admire and wish fo r a

y et h o w silk gown , few realize what silk is in texture or know n to select it whe buying . It used to be said that black silk had to be bought on faith , and , in a measure , it has , but they Show faith nowadays only when the material has been tried and o to pr ved worthy , and the wise woman looks for some proof n convi ce her that Sh e is buying the best . S n B C. ilk was known of by the Chi ese many centuries . , and was then as no w spun bv the silk worm in lo ng silken threads or fi E n laments . ac h cocoo averages yards of this delicate

400 o f filament , and about are needed for a strand sewing silk x and yet some e pect wear like leather o f this dainty web . Silks o f used to wear and be treasured as heirlooms , but in these days cheaper goods , loading , etc . , silk cannot endure such treat

s no t to ment unles it is purely silk , gum and chemicals , and get pure silk one must be prepared to pay for it $1 up for the 1 9 inch width and from for the 36 - inch width and get a piece “ bearing the stamp of Mo neybak on the narrow ribbon s el vage .

N o f no t piece bears this name , ta feta or satin finish , that has passed a strict examination and been pronounced flawless ; the best of raw silk is procured , the finest weavers , best of dyers , no one can do more to turn out a perfectly satisfactory black m silk for a gown , waist , petticoat , tri ming , long coat , short D F wraps , etc . , for the use now ordered by ame ashion of black silk has extended with time . Being of such perfect material this as brand of silk is proof against rain and dust , the former does n n o t o ff o t . spot , the latter easily shakes and it does fade it In buying silk try to crumple it in the hand , then smooth

w i s n . out , and if it rinkles it not goi g to prove very serviceable Another test is to scrape diagonally across the silk with the

- no thumb nail . If all that it should be the threads will t slip ; otherwise the nail will make a great space o f l o ose threads . u Pure silk has a clear , bright luster and a soft , firm text re or ” s a feel , as buyers often y ; it is also strong and should not tear If easily , and , as a last resort , silk is sometimes tested by fire . i pure silk and dye it takes fire slowly and goes o ut very qu ckly .

2 2 n to s et o ff adm ire fo r eed it , for a handsome silk is d its own advantages .

E t c ' Tailors make stylish suits of a skirt and on ja ket , long — - fi tin o r t . coat half long , close g jacket The genuine E ng lish suit

- is strictly tailor made , only bands or stitching as trimming and

o f blouse the same or one of thinner goods , as a tucked crepe de

Chine , black , white or colored . As this often se ems to o severe trim m ed l aited to our American ladies many of the suits are jp , ff . r t etc , but the tailo e ect is not lost and the cos ume is suitable

- for street wear , church , etc . Tailors also make shirt waist o f f f dresses ta feta for traveling , as a pure abric easily shakes the dust .

’ - is o f The dressmaker s shirt waist gown another desig n , and

h as - o n fal o tin in these days ornamental hand sewing it , as g g , “ — f to feather stitching , etc . ; linings all of white ta feta take as

f flo un . o c es the manner born Waist and skirt yokes , head and

f o r fo r cu fs have the above trimming in black white , and a slender young girl -a very c hic frock o f this kind is accordion plaited all . over with yokes and cuffs of the openwork in white . Dressmakers also trim these simple suits with a little tucking

fo r . only , studying the wearer and designing her individually The convenience o f an o dd skirt o f peau de soie o r taffeta a m l c nnot be overesti ated , for it is a ways ready , if made in a

- e . standard s ven gore style , and can be worn with any waist This convenience will not fail to keep separate skirts and waists

fo r in vogue , but buy a good piece of silk for the purpose , it will f be expected to wear for all times and places . A waist o this kind should be rather simple in e ffect to escape the fleeting f o s ff o m ashi n ; moderate e ects , merely tucking and stitching , c " bine to form a s tandard g arm ent that can be p acked away for _

- e o ut and . thre months , shaken worn with satisfaction ” The t - f more elaborate gowns of rich , s and alone ta feta for

f s o r s . day unctions , as wedding or luncheons dinners , theater , etc , are beautiful with black or white garniture , but the handsome “ ” o ff o f Mo ne bak background sets it . One for a matron is the y

ff - e ta eta for a demi train , full sle ves and graceful blouse with

o o f short yoke and fr nt panel white lace , edged with a tiny

o f s l f ff vine jet ; to e collar yoke in the same e fects and deep cu s , a girdle belt with jet buckle ; the lower part of the skirt , blouse a m and sleeves were in tiny tucks . Another gown shows the s e b idea , but Cluny lace is used and dotted here and there with lack

2 4 F ilk rench knots , no jet , thus costing less money , but more of ’ the wearer s time . "uite a conservative matron o f 60has a Mo neybak peau de

bo x - o f o - soie with yoke and plaited panel the go ds , demi train skirt with a circular flo unc e to the panel and a black silk galloon around yoke , down panel sides and as a heading to the flounce ; blouse wi th deep yoke and high cuffs of the silk galloon over white silk and handsome cord pendants on each side o f the front . A younger woman wears a p eau de cygne with drop o f f yoke cream lace , lined only with chi fon , for evening , and

- h vine like trails of w ite lace over the skirt , running higher in front . F o r regular evening gowns so me F renchy costumes have

o r transparent yoke and sleeves of jetted net black lace , as the pure - black costume is ver y becoming to a golden o r rosy ’ - blonde . A girl s evening dress for a stand by i s sen s ibly made

f o r —fi ni s h ed - of black ta feta a thin satin fabric , with demi train

‘ to o l o w d skirt , no sleeves menti n and a , round bodice and gir le

to that can be trimmed , according circumstances , with a wreath

f o f o r o f of flowers , bertha ru fle lace a shaped bertha allover lace

f is n o . or the classic drapery tulle , held by flowers One ever to ff t at a loss with such a gown invent some new e ec with it , “ ” and when the best days have been passed it be c omes a lining

- for a black lace or net and gallantly makes a second record . E xquisite frocks are made for evening by girls able to em broider , using their skill for flower pictures worked as a front panel o r scattered trail around the skirt ; ornament the waist and sleeves to correspond with lovely natural - colored blossoms and

o leaves . A black separate waist embr idered in black wheatears t o f is very rich in ap pearance , and , if the ma erial is durable taf f r o . feta , pays the work in good service Black is always refined in effect and a silken sheen 1 5 not only n u f e erall . o attractive , but g v becoming If it is not , add the to ch E n no w lace o r color lacking and all will be well . very o e wears n e to s atis fac black silk , and the importa t obj cts are procure a

to s . tory brand and fa hion it in a stylish , becoming manner “ ” B o f e n oth thes objects are possible , and he who ru s may read ,

st to as no t but first and la remember treat silk silk , serge , and a

o f reliable weave made pure material will repay your confidence , but look for the ribbon selvage and name woven o n it and I am

' c o nfident th at time and appreciation will confirm the above — n f , opi ion O the queen o f dress fab rics silk .

2 5 CHAPTER VI.

CUTTIN A ND F ITTIN A I G G W ST s .

’ F o ne and th e irst get your pattern , of May Manton s , read in l inin ' which structions on it ; lay the pattern on the g , may be of ’ t f G w n . s a feta silk , ilbert s percaline , la , etc , as best suits the dres

o f goods , and keep the waistline exactly on the grain the lining . the n t as every pattern has straight line plainly marked . Do o

cut out the darts until the waist is tried on , only mark them .

- F 1 The two piece waist pattern shown in ig . is a wonderful

n n n - fittin convenience for li i gs and outsides as well , si ce tight g bo dices have become passé ; the slightly rounded front edge can n easily be i creased if the figure needs extra room over the bust . On this pattern allow inch seams on the shoulders and at th e underarm seams . Us e a running stitch for the basting and a long needle ; hold the back toward you in basting the shoulders “ ” and ease this in the front a trifle ; meet the notches in basting and begin at the top of a seam to sew it . H few n n ere are a hi ts regardi g fitting, given by a tailor for “ : th e jackets , but the ideas are also of advantage in waists I f garment fits poorly take the correct measures of the entire gar ment , and recut according to these measures . When the fronts u in wrinkle across the chest near the armholes . take p a small V , the lining only . running down from the armhole . Wrinkles under the arm prove that the armhole must be cut out more . I f the back l r s h o u de bl ades . over the is too wide , cut out the armholes Do

n o n . not fit in a hurry . Keep your mi d your work Do not talk t f d o any one while you are fitting . Do not use a stu fed or a har o m n f rm for fitting , or the corsage will be too large , as the hu a

figure gives , and a made figure does not . S Use small , strong pins , like the ovran , and pin a seam to gether before basting it ; baste evenly , so that the line may prove

- a guide in the machine stitching , for which the easy running

Singer machine will be found competent for any material . Do not cut o ff the front edges until after the fitting and pin them up on the figure by putting the selvages together and the pins back .

Commence at the waistline to pin , hook or button a dress and work up , smoothing all imperfections up toward the shoulders , F i . S t as the rench do down , stand up and bend over in a waist , as the fit may change with every position , and you want it to be

2 6 right in each . In fitting shoulders do not take more o ff of the u n y w . back than the front , less the figure is ver hollo in front

Baste all seams straight , and remember that as a basque is basted so it will be stitched , and upon this depends the beauty of the u c rving seams . Keep the waistline as long as it is naturally , not

to longer , and make the darts near together at waistline , give t hem a slender look . F ace the front edges of a waist that is rounded out with a 1 a piece of lining } inches wide cut the same shape s the edge . If the front edges are left straight an allowance can be made for hems there . A very full figure may like the wrinkled effect

F I G . 2 .

in F i 2 n illustrated g . , where the li ing is cut two inches longer than the pattern and the extra laid in the wrinkles at the waist n line . If you do not like the idea of these wrinkles , the do not allow any extra length fo r them . The illustration shows a lining

- for a full busted person , basted and the wrinkles laid in the n lining , half an i ch above , the same distance below and at the w aistline , in order to take the strain from the outside material and to keep it smooth . The front edge is rounded over the bust and a small , crosswise dart taken halfway between the neck and waist . Another dart is taken in diagonally at the armhole , and u is this one is often used with advantage , even tho gh the person

f . not ull busted These two darts appear only in the lining, the n t o r outs ide being smooth over them . Do o be fitted in an old

- fit in t ill t g corset and then expect the gown to s e correctly .

2 7 After having fitted the lining and pinned it for necessary r m l alte ations , re ove the bastings , mark where the stitching wil be, cut out the two bust darts on each side and baste the lining

- to the outside . Put your first basting thread exactly through

o f o f the center the waistline , keeping the grain each material No w straight . baste in the tiny wrinkles at the waistline , not putting them in plaits , but in wrinkles between each basting no t stitch . Do not cut the neck low in front , or the collar will

D o fit . not cut the armholes out in a lavish manner until the last

as . thing , they are apt to stretch If thin around the neck place a — — layer of wadding the sheet variety between the lining and dress . e tacking it here and there to the lining . I f two lay rs of wadding

are used , the second one must be tapered down near the edges , and after stitching in the s leeves pull the wadding o ut o f the seam , lest it be too clumsy .

F IG . 3.

c"

F i . 3 g represents half of a flat paper pattern , necessary for

y only a very large figure , needing an extra side gore where man

seams decrease the width ; the wrinkles in the lining , tiny darts

and extra piece combined will fit the largest of figures . Some forms require fine haircloth "the Princess F eatherweight"sewed f to s on each side rom the shoulder seam the underarm eam , rounding it to fit in the armhole o n the outer edge and allo wing o n it to almost reach the collar the inner side , then narrowing it s o down that it is about nothing when it reaches the under seam . This takes in the hollow around the front o f the arm and part of ” e is o r “br the collarbon , where the dress very apt to wrinkle eak, " 2 8 as it is styled by dressmakers , when the wearer moves . The hair

ff o n cloth is sti enough to prevent this , and should be stitched the lining between it and the outside fabric .

- F i . 4 In g , half an ordinary four piece pattern is shown with darts and back especially shaped to give a slender appearance , all parts carefully worked and perforations to point where the ' o f grain the cloth is to be kept perfectly straight . Do not cut into cloth without a thought of economy ; extravagant cutters are no t the best dressmakers . After the waist is fitted , with the outside

o f basted on , the seams can be stitched barely onside the basting , H em in using M . way Sons ’ sewing silk for both

strength and neatness , as the inside of the waist must look well and the

seams must hold . Stitch on the Singer machine with a tight tension and small stitch for waists and

a long stitch for skirts . Overcast seams before pressing them "methods

4 . F I G . for this work are ex

plained in the tenth chapter". Use a small , slender iron for to pressing seams . Turn the side form , shoulder seams the front , and open the darts , the back , side and underarm seams . Do not o r press plush , velvet cloth seams , but stand the iron on a table and — run the seams quickly over the rounded end . With a tailor made suit the pressing is half the success of the gown ; it is done with very heavy irons and by a man who nearly shapes the dress with

his is manipulations . It said that tailors press or sponge cloths by laying a wet "not dripping"cloth on the wrong side of the

g oods and pressing it with a heavy hot iron until perfectly dry . S leeves , collars , etc . , are described in the chapter entitled The H Accessories of a Waist . ave your corset fitted before the w aist is . o r The chief alterations in a waist , tight blouse fit , are made in the shoulder or underarm seams ; keep the latter Straight “ ” n o f dow the line the shoulder , a long seam there giving the drop

f fo r ef ect . If striped goods are used they must be matched each l ex tl Em atched . P ac front , sleeves , etc laid goods have the b ocks y

“ o n are o cut i t" or may be cut the bias . Striped goods als form

2 9 a s o f d n k f o f i it eries Vs own the ce ter bac and ront a wa st , requ ing careful cutting and fitting as w el l as an abun dance of the material .

I as do not advise making up plaid ginghams on the bias , they are apt to be pulled askew in the ironing . Waists and sleeves of such fabrics are made with the bag or F rench seams , which have the raw edges put together on the right side and a very narrow seam taken ; then they are turned to the wrong or inner side and another tiny seam taken . Wash

o f waists are best lined , if at all , with a piece the same goods or with white lawn . I f one perspires freely there can be a deep yoke at least of the goods on the wrong side ; with others a re enforcement around the armholes and down the side seams is f su ficient . The round waists worn under the skirt should extend fully three inches below the waistline . The finishing of a waist f requires a separate chapter , being a di ferent class of work to the cutting, fitting and stitching .

CHAPTER VII. E F A T H ACCE SSORIE S O WAIST .

The most important of these is a sleeve , and this is so varied

In style that all cannot be described , but the flat paper pattern here illustrated gives the exact shape of the standard design in coat Sleeves . Pin the paper pattern to the armhole before cut it ting into the goods , observing where the inner seam comes , as i should be on a straight line with the thumb with the arm hanging down straight ; get the elbow in the right place and then pin to the o f S armhole ; always keep a cushion ovran pins handy , for there is much of pinning in successful dressmaking .

As a general rule to follow , remember to have a cross thread w of your goods halfway between the elbo and shoulder , making the lower part bias . Very thin arms were improved by a layer of wadding between the elbow and shoulders when close - fitting

ff s . sleeves were worn . Cu s and epaulette trimming horten arms A . narrow tape may be stitched around the armholes with the

f o f . sleeve , which prevents any splitting across the ront the basque The armholes are closely but loosely overcast ; the sleeve seams are clipped several times to prevent any drawing , overcast separately and pressed open if desired . Keep the pattern straight on the goods o r the lower part will

30 h as to be made larger . Some persons are noted fo r wearing out fo r their sleeves , and these should buy enough the second pair, Th e as contrasting sleeves are no longer in vogue . full bishop sleeve should be regulated in size according to the wearer , and the trimming selected with a V iew o f its ultimate effect o n the

figure , pinning it on the one who is to wear it . The greater number of waists are now finished with an inch

o r o to band of silk or the material cut bias , straight sl ped the f ff neck , as orms and fancies di er ; this may be interlined with very thin crinoline , faced with silk and fastened in front with the G s o ranger hook and eye , that the edges just meet or the band is left soft for coolness . H ff n igh , sti collars are entirely out of style after rui ing many 2 2 a pretty throat ; to 4 inches forms the popular height and fancy , separate collars are now the choice and they are usually made over

o f . a foundation bobbinet , featherbone , etc , to keep them light , as f all sizes and several styles come ready made , astening in the back t with the tiny invisible hooks and eyes before referred o . If a collar is sewed to the dress neck , hold the latter toward you . but the general opinion is that a collar made entirely separate sets better . F ancy collars are a legion and change with the seasons , but at present the tab idea is the ruling o ne in this important

- a tinv accessory . When a plain stock collar is worn , it requires “ — “ ” r . turn over o protective collar of lace , embroidery , etc , for

bec o m in nes s is . neatness and g u as a plain collar line very severe A collection of different collars enables one to make many changes with a plain , colored or black gown , and collar and belt

fo r . sets thus sprung in vogue , especially summer frocks o f Velvet is always becoming in accessories , on account its I ff . f rich , flattering e ect all seams and edges are properly basted the machine stitching will run j ust outside of the basting thread ,

fo r o ne and never begrudge using a good silk stitching , that does

o r as not knot rough , matching the goods exactly , can always be done with the H em inw ay range of colors in silk . Perfectly transparent collars and cuffs of lace are very dressy to on silk or thin wool frocks and are lightly caught a tiny , bias o f band , finishing the wrist , being themselves allover lace , with

. a bias piping on all edges of velvet , silk , mousseline , etc , coral stitched with crochet silk , stiffened with two short , diagonal

o f pieces featherbone , back and front , and securely fastened with those dainty little invisible hooks and eyes .

32 ‘ Although not worn much now , except on jackets , revers are a

h o llo w ~ ches ted as boon to persons , they fill up the space , and they

f - are also becoming to ull busted women , as they detract from

any oversize if pointed long and slender below the fullest part . a n a a e a They are of the dress goods or co tr sting m t rial , nd are o f n finished with an edge beading , braided , stitched in two rows o e R the machine , a delicate vine of lace appliqu d on , etc . evers can — be made in so many shapes square , pointed , continue over the eta — m shoulders to form epaulettes , that it is i possible to describe them all , but their making follows the same general lines . They should be interlined with haircloth . The outside material must ff n be turned over the sti e ing, caught down with a few long S an stitches and the ilk or dress goods lining hemmed over this , o f eighth an inch from the edge . Cut all such accessories out o f paper first and pin them o n before a l o o king- glass until the

S . proper position is found , using ovran pins S ome revers are cut in one piece with the jacket fronts . If they start from the shoulder seam and taper to the waistline they S e are properly termed bretelles . hawl revers have a roll d collar o ne below a standing that ends in short , wide revers over the bust ” ’ without the notch or step that distinguishes a man s coat collar .

This latter style has the revers part pointed to the turnover collar . which is sewed to the dress neck with the seam toward the inside , leaving the dress goods free to be hemmed down over the seam . The revers are seamed in at the end of the collar and sewed in the

o f w y front edge the jacket , ith the same seaming or made entirel separate , finished up and then slightly lapped over the collar ends .

- two No . A inch ribbon belt is becoming to nearly any figure , 9 — f . inches is ashionable this season A slender , narrow buckle makes the waist smaller . There are many contrivances for n holding skirts and waists together under a belt , but a Clinto

- safety pin is always h andy fo r this purpose . Keep your belt

as s well pushed down in front , it is one of the first sign of middle age for a belt to ride up at that part . The lighter colored E is the belt the larger the waist . The mpire belt fitted around and i s f above the waist , three to seven inches wide , and in soft olds or

is o r flat . If the latter , it covered with embroidery beading and i s fo r f only suitable a slender figure , and is of the bodice orm and requires the fine boning in front only o r at the sides and back P m f s ix if very wide . The o peian belt of ancy ribbon , to eight as inches wide , is boned a pointed girdle at the back , brought low in front in soft folds and fastened there with an o dd brooch

33 There is ano ther pretty belt for the flowered ribbons which

f is crosses the front above the waistline in soft olds , brought f lower to the back , crossed there , carried to the ront again low as “ ” S a dip belt and knotted there with long ends hanging . oft ribbon sashes in folds around the waist have two short loops — pointing up at the back and two longer ones down , with half long ends or down to the floor nearly , ending with a short loop knotted 1 5 S n inches above the end . ashes and fancy belts are tied o

request at the large city stores , if the ribbon is bought there , and o f the variety made belts was never surpassed , for a belt means a

f - good deal on a gown o to day .

Y . okes of lace , the goods in tucks , rows of trimming , etc , are

small or deep and low over the shoulders as a drop . On a slender ff figure , something of Shaped bertha e ect is becoming , as is a large F collar garniture . lat vests have been put aside for collars , yokes

and applied trimmings ; a narrow or V- shaped vest is occasionall y

seen and may be necessary for remodeling a waist , but the pre vailing idea now in a waist is to have it gracefully loose and the trimming applied directly to the garment rather than as a separate

accessory .

CHAPTE R VIII.

F T HE USE O HAIRCLOTH. When the correct haircloth is obtained and then used properly

- in the skirts of to day the wearer walks lightly and at ease , for

there is no dragging about her heels of yards of goods , but from ’ the interlining s effect the lower part of the skirt i s held o ut and enables o ne to step freely in a grace ful manner envied by many " No w and "formerly"obtained by few . , with the use of the Paquin interlining all is changed and the making o f a skirt is

easily accomplished .

F a , a irstly , h ircloth has a niche of its own nothing else will t ke f its place . When the pro essional or amateur works with it as a

friend the best o f results are obtained , and in order to make this task an easy one the Paquin is woven in c urved strips with a piece 7 a 4 , h of linen between , the h ircloth strip being inches deep w ich

can be turned under , top and bottom , to finish the interlining and

ff . no long , sti hairs poke out as they used to do

Such haircloth is made of the best horsehair , is lig ht in

weight , elastic and resilient ; it may bend , but it does not break and w h and ill keep its s ape in damp dry weather , and , like Truth , H will ever ris e again no matter how crushed . ealth and comfort are aided by this dressmaker ’ s accessory and style added to many a skirt that otherwise would lack just the right hang ” that means so much to a woman desiring to look w ell and have the appearance of a perfectly gowned person . In using the Paquin to interline a skirt you can use the depth

y an of the haircloth strip onl , with inch of the linen left on each

th e w Ta - n n side or have dep th of linen as ell . but a g i ch interli ing m has is an excellent size ; cut the material out as it co es , it the an w proper curve to fit y skirt , lap the ends of each idth and stitch down over each side of them a narrow bias strip of lining n or on one side o ly , using this for the outer side . ‘ Nhen sufficient is joined for the skirt turn down th e tin y edge at the top and baste the interlining to the Skirt lining if it “ is a gored Skirt seamed line e the lining being all seamed first : then stitch the upper edge of interlining to the inner part of the

n . lining across the top . leavi g the lower part basted only Put th e h as dress skirt , which the seams stitched . to the lining so that the raw edges of both come together and arrange the seam s as A ll described in the chapter devoted to the cutting of skirts . i s kirts s h o uld t th e be left at first fully an inch too long , then urn up lower edge to the proper wearing length , the lining , interlining and outer material and finish with the usual binding , etc . " F o r a Skirt made with a drop lining the proper place for the “ n h o r i terlining is on t e drop . Many ladies have two three “ d ” n rops made as full petticoats to use u der all skirts , others pre

- n fer the seamed together li ing , and this interlining is appropriate f f e for either . Although su ficientl y sti f to keep its place the curv d and straight hairclo th "known as the Princess F eatherweight" can be sewed o n any sewing machine . “ ” F o r a drop Skirt apply the interlining o n th e inner side o f the n n flo unce m a gores or the circular exte sio as it y be fashioned . “ ” t n applying as before , and cover it wi h a faci g of the drop ma t ri o e al th e w . which will come next to earer This one little, additi n will entirel y transform the skirt and by holding it away from the i wearer g ve it apparent lightness . As Skirts are certainly grow ing fuller it behooves one to look well into such little helps to p ersonal comfort . F The straight haircloth , Princess eatherweight , is a friend f in need for cu fs , revers , as a staying band on the lower edge of

- fittin a close g basque , in some collarettes , bodice belts and numer

35 is ous accessories where a pliable interlining needed . Cuffs es ecial l o n p y are growing conspicuous coats and waists , and per fectly soft cuffs have neither s tyle nor comfort- they need the o ne touch given by haircloth — R iding habit bodices are inte rlined through the postilion o r skirt part of the back , across the shoulders and chest , to give them th e most exact fit without a wrinkle . All basques having box plaited backs need this interlining to keep them in shape , so tailors appreciate its many goo d qualities and some forms have a far better appearance if haircloth i s used in front of the armholes to “ ” p revent the breaking that a figure hollow there indulges in . The straight haircloth "Princess F eatherweight"is also bought by the yard and cut crosswise to fit any gores , bound with a strip of lining where flatly joined on each end , and also bound top and bottom , using a lightweight lining , with narrow bias l re d strip , while the Paquin comes a a v curved .

CHAPTER IX .

E E T HE CORRE CT USE O F V LV T . Some modistes and many home dressmakers claim to find velvet difficult to handle and therefore cannot use it to the fullest advantage ; all of this is easily obviated with a little knowledge and No w y a modicum of common sense . that velvet is remarkabl f stylish for coats , costumes and waists and is universally so ten ing and flattering to the complexion no one can afford to slight it . n a As a trimmi g it enriches ny fabric that it may be put with , “ ” as a separate waist the new B oulevard velvets are charming in dot and small figured patterns that promise great vogue this season and a great advantage in this brand is that it is now o f fast colors . There is a close pile to this material and a large range of colors ; it cannot prove a risk to buy a velvet waist fo r it e la m o de is ev r , but there are a few things to consider in manipulating velvet and I am going to tell you of them . Velvet garments have the pile running down and the pieces should be cut the same way of the goods o r each part will cast a ff H di erent shade . ave your thoughts on your work when cutting s out a velvet garment , and in basting it use a fine needle and ilk . as coarse cotton leaves an impression o n the soft velvet pile o r

36 surface . When ripping out basting threads cut them every inch , as s so to have only a hort piece to pull through . Us e fo r the small , Sharp pins fitting, and do not allow yourself the habit that even professional dressmakers sometimes have o f Let putting in pins and taking them out , apparently at haphazard . each pin go into the waist , etc . , with a purpose , and do not use any more than are absolutely necessary in velvet . Carefully stitch m o ne the sea s , for altered means a line in any velvet , even

b w ay Boulevard , which , y the , is stamped on the back of every

so o u s ee is yard , y can for yourself if you receive what asked for . To press the seams of a velvet garment stand a warm—not — ho t iron o n the large end and run the open or closed seams over

o f the small , round end , after the slightest dampening possible

. as each seam This prevents flattening the pile , ironing would

. is do The material an excellent wearing fabric , but give it care

- o f be and it will repay you three fold . If any part the velvet it comes creased , then steam according to the directions given in “ R the chapter on enovating Materials . In hemming a bias piece of velvet turn the hem down but once and blindstitch it along with stitches that catch on the under o n f side only , never showing the right side , rom a half to an inch N apart . ever work a buttonhole in velvet . When dusty , wipe an velvet with old silk handkerchief or brush with a soft whisk , If called a velvet broom . wet shake it well and hang in a cool n roo m . I f a grease spot gets o velvet rub it lightly with a little gasoline , remembering it is explosive .

Velveteen gets hard wear , but that it will wash is news to many ; make a lather of Ivory soap and hot water , souse the velveteen up and down In this several times and then put it in two fresh , hot lathers and finally rinse through clear , warm water : f do not wring, hang on the line and about hal dry , then have some one hold an end of the velveteen , you hold the other with the left hand and with the right hand take a hot iron and run over f the wrong side of the goods , the steam raising the pile like a resh piece . In the water when washing and rinsing put a teaspoonful of common salt to each quart o f water . i s nOt A velvet waist an expensive article to buy , as it can be worn with a silk or woolen Skirt and does not require any trim i s ming, or only a small quantity , and nowadays it usually the elaborate garniture put on a garment that sends the price beyond — ‘ o r medium sized purses , not the actual material . White black

37 dots on a colored ground among the new B oulevard designs are stylishly fashioned in the tailored style , with stitched edges and handsome buttons , or more elaborate designs obtain for a more dressy blouse .

CHAPTER X.

F N I ISHING A WAIST. The manner of sewing on hooks and eyes adds much to the fit and general appearance o f a waist and the articles to be used are many , but only one hook has the restraining curve in the o f bill , enabling the dressmaker to cover the greater part the hoo k with the facing and not wear it when passing it over the eye . The Granger hook and eye is proving all that a dress

it s tay s maker wishes to be , as it where sewed and from the shape of the hook does not wear the facing and is smooth and n n n stro g . The i visible eyes made by the same firm are most c o v enient any y for portion Of a garment to be lapped over , as the are concealed and can be used with any h ook or with the Key stone spring hook with the regular s afety s p ring at the under part to keep it fastened . The lining of a bodice usually h as a stay up each front edge to the height of the dart ; the hooks and eyes on the front edges

bo o ks are half an inch apart , on the right side , and edges j ust meeting when hooks are fastened . On the left under side of this w . Se place the eyes , so that they barely project beyond the edge with five stitch es in each loop and four o n the right side of the th e large part of eye , halfway to the top , and then pass on to the

F o r next one , without breaking the twist . a neat finish cover the

n a blinds titch ed eves with an i ch f cing of silk , cut bias and , the turned edge coming nearly to the top of the eye , the latter being left free to catch the hook easil y . On the right side the hooks are put back a trifle from the t edge and are sewed with fine sti ches in each small loop , taking

O f them straight back , and at the top the bill five more stitches are taken crosswise . The facing can then be put entirely over the hook to the top , as it cannot interfere with the safety curve at t o . the p in this patent hook , and hemmed down

The invisible eyes and small hooks are preferred for a collar . c ff n t t u s . etc as faste ing a bel , a ber ha or yoke Opening on the

38 buttonholes with the same H eminw ay twist ; if a tailored button hole , a strand of twist is carried around the edge while working if the hole , and crossbars are worked on the end , an ordinary buttonhole omit bars and strengthening thread .

Us e o f the best dress shields to protect a waist , and when sewing them in put the needle through the extreme edge only o f the Shield ; the Omo shield contains no rubber , is noted for its hygienic qualities and perfectly odorless ; it is narrow fo r Shirt O f waists , is nainsook or silk covering , is large , with a short flap , a curved to suit full figures , detachable , absorbent , etc . , being p r n l p a e t y designed to suit every fancy and an excellent article . F asten a shield in a waist at the ends to the armhole and twice n t in n to the lini g below , pu ting the shield to i cline more to the

no t . front , to set straight down under the arm In the chapters on renovating articles th e cleansing of worn shields is referred to . The waist worn outside of the skirt requires a lining or belting belt which should be set so that its lower edge is quarter of an inch above the waistline , to keep the bodice down at the back .

This is featherstitched with silk twist at the center back , side form n and Side gore seams , and in front should be a trifle tighter tha n the bodice , from which it takes the strain at the waistli e , fasten o f f ing with two hooks and eyes . This kind a waist requentl y n has an outside belt of the goods lined with Sleazy ca vas , slip stitched to the lower part of the bodice so that it projects quarter of an inch below and finished with lapped , pointed ends in front . fastened with the p atent invisible eyes and hooks before de

b to . scri ed , which are warranted not rust Tapes with which to hang a waist are sewed on in a Ioop to the armholes toward the lower back part . Cut out the armholes sufficiently to prevent any binding . A snug fit is never a tight

A s t one , especially in any one part , but even all over . the corse “ ” fits so the waist will , and a corset fit is not a golden apple , but

O f . within the reach the greater number of women , as before said

40 CHAPTER XI. E A T TY E H L H A ND S L .

It seems to be the fad O f many writers and talkers to prate

n as of all fashionable gowning as bei g unhealthy , though health and homeliness grew like twin cherries upon the same stalk . F e ortunately, many women do not dress in a manner calculat d

e s o to injure their h alth , but some always did , and probably will e i continue in the same path , but in the m ant me the race is and e improving, , as a rule , wom n dress in a more healthful manner now than since the days of the classically garbed Grecian maiden . H ealth is the greatest blessing Providence can bestow upon e is f r a woman , yet ther su ficient o iginal sin in human nature

' to im p l ant th e desire within the heart of every wom an to loo k

to as stylish and dress becomingly well as health fully . The essence of style i s a birthright and cannot be imparted but proper materials and designs and becoming colors will give a o o f gown a certain am unt style , especially if combined with a

. r a modicum of originality As a general ule , do not nticipate fashions ; neither be too modest and fail to grasp an opportunity i f to have a pretty , stylish gown , which g ves the wearer a feeling o universal good - fellowship with her sisters and adds to her co nfi h dence and appiness . B egin at the foundation and improve yourself with physical

t m a o the exercises hat y add to or take fr m form , diet if necessary, o Ne F a R have daily sp nge baths and use the Plus Ultra ce estorer ,

m i s and be as young and strong as possible . Now adays a wo an as s h e young as looks , and I believe in her keeping far behind

F o f o ather Time, with the aid a good face loti n , pure air, becoming and healthful dress . I do not advocate extravagance or the ’ neglect of one s duties , but I also claim that it is a duty woman

as owes to herself to look well and to keep as young as she can ,

s o and take care of your complexion , and dress to suit after get it ting in a good condition .

- fittin is th - Well g underwear necessary , and e all wool of a light w eight is less bulky than other makes , and for this reason , the various union suits are popular . The proper corset has been dis in ff cussed another chapter , and out of the variety o ered by the “ ” W . B . make every figure will find its fit . On the corset wear F — i the oster hose supporter , which is made on hygienic princ ples ,

fo r o r and may be had the front sides , keeping the hose in perfect

41 is s . o position , ditto the corset The garter injurious in stopping f n f the ci rculation o the blood , if wor su ficiently tight to keep the n f o o t s a o . stocking smo th , that I need y anything its disadvantage The shoes should be selected according to the shape of the

no t e feet , and as the wearer wish s her feet to be ; if not born with

’ arch to o f a Spanish the instep , wearing a Shoe this Shape will n L not cultivate o e. ace shoes firmly

over the instep , keeping the front n from pushi g forward . In the matter o f muslin under wear there are many minds regard ing Chemises v ers us underp ettico ats

and corset Covers . The two latter take the place of the former and

show less fulness at the waistline . Stout figures may have drawers and petticoat fitted to a deep yoke

with a drawing- string from the

side . Do not put buttons on a piece

of underwear, except corset covers , unless you wish them to Show

through the dress at the waistline . As some dress skirts are made um in lined order to secure lightness ,

numbers O f women use a well - flared Sorosis petticoat for both a drop — lining and petticoat . A ready made petticoat of this make is sure to be

well made , carefully fitted , of the

newest shape and material , and thus secures the correct hang to the

- fi in dress skirt which it could not have over an ill tt g petticoat .

There is nothing especially reforming about this style of dress ,

is but it light , warm , comfortable and can be suited to the indi vidual needs and to p resent styles ; the latter are not to be held responsible fo r some of the queer designs seen ; these are the fan cies of extreme taste , or rather of a lack of taste . Do not wear and heavy skirts , use an interfacing of Paquin , do not have a

- N walking skirt dragging on the ground . ever despair of having a style about your gowns and comfort as well ; many styles must

to be changed suit the wearer which develops the individuality ,

42 o f F n and that is the greatest secret of the success re ch modistes , who make fashion yield to the needs of the wearer . The figures illustrated in this article show the result of cor rect and exaggerated dressing for a full figure , one being attired in a shirred waist and skirt , with unduly large sleeves , flared

‘ flo unce fi ur . o th er e , badly arranged hair , etc The g of the same n i ff weight wears a skirt of lo g lines , wa st of same e ect , well

— and lowered in front , medium sleeves , a straight front corset the e n f n hair arranged in a clos r style , prese ting an entirel y di fere t appearance to the one de term ined to wear shirring h because it is fas ionable , irrespective of’ her peculiar

needs . A stylish tailor gown cannot be accomplished at

home for any figure , as the finishing and make are not a dressmaker ’ s but a tailor ’ s

o f work , but some the

ready- made fill every de

sire , and can be found in a

large variety of colors , ma

terial s as and styles , the

Wo o ltex i v m i make , g g un versal satisfaction and solv ing the question of stylish

street gowns , for which the tailored suits are p reemi

nent . Keep the extremities warm and the dress light and do not follow the ex

to . tremes of fashion , for they cannot fail interfere with health n In the meantime , keep up with the reigning fashio s , but adapt

them to your especial needs . Just how to do this is one of the

-k aims of this little boo , as I claim that every woman should be

garbed becomingly and healthfully ; it costs no more , will prove a rational manner of dressing and render the world more refined

and artistic . Well - fitting gloves round o ut a stylish toilette fo r any o cca f r o r e adv i s . o sion If traveling , Shopping outing , a piqué glov is

43 as o f a — i s able , it is a he vier kid and has a tailor like finish that

F o r especially suitable for such costumes . visiting and dre s sy i s tan wear a fine glacé kid recommended in , brown , gray , mode , F r . o white , etc evening , white glacé or suede kid reign ever

above all rivals , but sometimes very stylish black toilettes are e finished by black su de gloves . While separate skirts and waists are not considered as stylish as entire costumes o f one

material , they are retained for

their convenience and comfort , " to which style is also added by the materials selected and th e

o make , as is sh wn in the half

length illustration , made of n striped Viyella fla nel , which can be worn during any season

with satisfaction , as it neither shrinks nor fades if treat ed in H telligently when washed . ere is a formula fo r washing it : Make a suds o f Ivory soap and hot o water , wash the fabric in the hands without rubbing s ap on it , rinse in clear water of the same degree of heat , doing it all quickly to avoid soaking in water ; squeeze nearly dry in the wringer , hang it in the shade , and when almost dry iron with a

O ld thin protection , like muslin , between the flannel and iron “ ” us e This soap is convenient to in such hurry tasks , as it floats and remains in sight when needed . More of correct gowning is written of from a fabric point o f

V s m y iew in another chapter , but I wish to impre s here upon e readers the fact that health and styl are a possible combination , no t a do prove expensive , may be m de becoming , and add to the comfort and satisfaction of every woman attempting home dress making, which can be made an interesting study or a tiresome task .

44 CHAPTE R XII. B E COMIN CO O S A ND MATE IA G L R R LS.

What to wear and how to wear it , if known , transforms many o ne a plain woman into at least pretty enough to attract attention . It is no idle vanity to study individual needs and to bring out all goo d points unless the seeker after good loo ks does so to the detriment of her health and neglects important duties o r cultivates F extravagance and becomes a monument to selfishness . ind out a a wh t is becoming, and then cling to those sh des , be they three ix or s . In these days of combinations of colors and materials m any changes may be rung with even three colors for the ground It work . costs no more to dress becomingly than to make a “ be guy of yourself, and in the former case you will happier , ff and thus di use mo re happiness around you . S ome women never look loud , others jar in any bright color ; if you have not th e taste to tell if an article suits you ask your

- dear friend to criticise it for you . Neatness does not mean prim ness , but it does mean some order about the dress the picturesque ,

unkempt style looks well only in a picture and few of us are. F models . rills and fancies suit a young or small woman while

is absurd on a Juno . It easier to put on than to take away the plumpness , therefore stout woman must exercise more care f r as s e o s h e cannot be hid . A woman growing p owes it to herself to soften the touches of time and s h e must consult her complexion in order to do this . A sallow skin there hardly seems any excuse for when Ne Plus

Ultra lotion , outdoor exercise and cold rubs will give a better com

plexion , but such things must be continued , not taken up as a pass G b h ing fancy . ray hair is not un ecoming to a yout ful face or soft ,

o a pink cheeks , otherwise it gives a duller t ne to the general p

earan e O l d to p c . An test discover what is becoming to the skin

is to put the ungloved hand by the color , and if it looks well the

face will . This loses force when we remember that many have

whiter hands than complexions , and vice versa . Another plan is re to dress in a Shade that exactly matches the eyes , but this o ne stricts the wardrobe to color , and such gowns lack the spice

of variety said to be necessary for our well being .

A short , stout figure must not wear bright colors , a plaid . s N wide stripe or large design . arrow stripes , tiny patterns or

very small checks will , however , cause such a person to look more

45 i s R slender than a plain material , unless it black . ough materials m ust not be even loo ked at by such a fig ure fo r fear that the p ossessor might be tempted to buy them , and then regret it as

. S o o long as the dress lasted uch a figure l ks best in dark colors ,

- long lines , demi train skirts and if inclined to flush , white should a be about the neck s a finish . A stout woman that is tall h as an easier task in dressing her N figure , as it only requires condensing in width . arrow and medium stripes "ditto figures", checks and plain goods may be

. o f used in dark and light shades Avoid a mass white , and if a i s white gown worn during the summer , white being appropriate o r B for all ages , select a ribbed piqué a corded dimity . oth of these types need the narrow belt and elongated bodice point and

- fittin well g garments , but their hair , eyes and complexions are also to be considered when buying a new gown . A bizarre style some “ ” ih times goes the house as a quaint conceit , but never in the street . S s hort , lender women can wear any color , but their lack of

height prevents immense plaids , wide stripes and very large de

signs from being just what they want . The happy medium is

better in every respect here in styles and designs . One thing to be remembered is that to o broad effects cannot be successfully o ff 5 4 no carried by a woman under feet inches , matter what the

reigning fashions may be . — Th e - to o o f 5 7 tall , not slender woman about feet inches , and 1 40 1 50 o ne weighing to pounds , is the that it is a delight to dress ,

if o especially she has a go d walk , round waistline and long waist ; 30 no t of course , before I would wish her such a weight , and in any case moderately Slender women look younger than th o se with

large waists and broad hips . The very slender woman can wear anything for she can make ” up and adopt the loose styles of dress to her own especial wants .

A few general rules can be followed by every one , but many No w correspondents ask what colors suit their hair . , unless the

hair be red , I do not notice it , only the Skin and eyes . The skin with a color can wear what the same degree of fairness if pale any cannot touch . What I call a good day skin looks well at

time , others light up only at night and are really dull in the glare

s un o f the . f f Navy blue has an old e fect upon any skin , except a resh ,

rosy blonde , and brings out lines hitherto invisible to any eyes , i but if a touch o f p ink or red is put with it th e whole effect s 4? shades called écru , and all types are safe in avoiding the dull ashen o tone thus wr ngfully named . A sallow brunette needs warm tones to supply the rosy flush Le . t denied by nature her avoid all blues , gray , violet , green and Y white . ellow , orange , deep and rose pink , bright and dark red , golden and reddish browns and reddish purple are the shades

B i s for such a skin . lack also becoming when combined with

r h e - pink o gold . S may wear pinkish gray with the one touch of pink that transforms many a complexion ; the creams worn should be almost yellowish in effect ; even ivory would require pink flowers if worn in the evening and it Should not be attempted during the day .

B o -r lack and white is not becoming to a pale dull face . Warm G colors seem to increase the size . enuinely elderly women dress to o f no t match the age the face , the gray of the hair . It does no t mean more money to dress in a harmonious style , the artistic

is need not be eccentric or startling, but it , rightfully applied , a vast improvement to us poor mortals .

CHAPTE R XIII. NS MATE RN ITY GO W .

There is a constant complaint amo ng ladies that magazines do f o f t not pay su ficient attention to this style cos ume , which must be t worn , nevertheless . A gown for his purpose must be perfectly

o — comfortable , lo k well as I have said before, I believe in women — dressing as well as their circum s tances will allow and also co n ceal the figure in a measure . It need not be out of fashion if only f a few rules are ollowed , as finishing the fronts of the lining with lacings to allow for expansion , the loose outside not requiring them , and cutting the skirt with a wider and longer front gore and putting in a drawing string in place of a belt . In the cata logue of May Manton patterns will be found quite a variety of n desig s for such needs . Dress s o as to combine light weight and comfort ; wear an “ ” - fit in — F s u t . B . easy g , soft boned W corset and the oster hose p porter , and keep the figure without inj uring the health ; the under clothes should be fitted to yokes , as they take up less room than “ ” S gathers , and a drop petticoat , like the orosis , worn under a

48 h t - light skirt , securing a smoot ly fitted o p and well flared lower to o part this imp rtant garment . Keep free from many bands and undue weight . Keep up the appearance with the Ne Plus Ultra F R as ace estorer, the complexion is apt to fare badly, and there is fo r f r no reason why it should not be cared , and be cheerful , o i s cheerfulness a wonderful retainer and restorer of youth . A s for the dress itself , there is usually provision made for a

fo r o ne home gown , one the street and for nicer wear . The street suit should be of an inconspicuous color and either of a plain o r mixed material . The indistinctly striped cheviots , mixed tweeds and Priestley cravenettes are excellent fo r this with braid trim

. r Of ming The Ski t should be a fashionable style , interlined with t “ ” Paquin . Be careful o allow fo r any h iking o r uplifting at the

to o f h center front . The p t e front width should be curved up - O i to instead down and sewed the belt , with a few gathers in to R un order have an easy fit over the abdomen . a drawing string in the to p of the Skirt at the back o r allow a large lap - over o n to fo r the band , provide its enlargement . If a tailored street gown is considered the make known as

Wo o ltex f t fi ni s h in s O fers suitable ma erials , colors and careful g in ff Th di erent grades of fabrics . e coat styles will prove becoming

o with their long lines , and the least conspicu us trimming will be

r - t o ff . braid , stitched edges a silk collar , cu s , etc A full leng h coat , “ ” a f- fittin o f Mo ne bak ff o r h l g , can be y black ta eta navy , Oxford n n or Olive cravenette , and will be found convenie t for walki g , driving or traveling . Dark colors and black are recommended as having the effect o f apparently decreasing the size . F o r flannelette morning wear a dressing sacque of Viyella , ,

o l d cotton goods , cashmere , etc ., with an skirt or a loose wrapper , F r f i s o r may be donned . o the a ternoon nothing neater more f r tea o wn is o f com o table than a g , which one the most convenient fashions that o ur E nglish cousins ever sent over to us ; it may be flannelette o f plain or figured woolen goods , Japanese silk , , lawn , e etc . , according to the season and the purse . With som lace and

i s r is ribbons such a gown easily t immed , and usually of the loose

- E mpire style , half princess fitting, with a Watteau back , etc . , large “ ” sleeves and a dip back to secure the long lines now in vogue .

F ancy négligée sacques are of challie , remnants of albatross or the light striped Viyella that does not require a lining, and may be simply trimmed with featherstitched edges done with ’ Heminway s crochet silk in a similar or contrasting shade . Always keep a round waist and back of a skirt closely co n

49 y - nected with the Clinton safet pin , as a drooping skirt and lifted waist possess neither style nor comfort , and should never be divorced . Dressy costumes are O f some material that will pay to make

o r o n over afterward , as a black wool silk and wool , a black M ey ”

ff . bak silk , a net lined with ta eta of this brand of silk , etc A — m simple style is best , demi train , rich flat tri ming , as lace or o passementerie in lengthwise effects . A t uch of trimming in the “ ” form of B oulevard velvet i s always in good taste for a woolen gown .

All O f this style o f dress i s no t o f the s o - called dress reform

co mbines l i ht school , but it g weight , comfort , warmth , utility and a decent appearance , which traits many reform ideas do not as and include . I believe in reforming dress , inasmuch health

s ee comfort demand the above essentials , but I cannot the need of “ ”

o . making oneself lo k like a guy , under any circumstances At i this try ng time every woman wants comfort , and at the same time her natural good sense and modesty demand a gown that will render her less conspicuous , and these points are kept in view when describing costumes , making them conservative in fabrics , ‘ styles and color ; fo r this reason black i s popular with a to uch o f color , as it never seems prominent among costumes , and yet always presents a woman as well dressed .

50 CHAPTER XIV.

O AME TA HA N D - E IN RN N L S W G. Of late the use of ornamental stitching in dressmaking has and become a pronounced fad , enables the modiste and amateur f alike to accomplish beautiful e fects at a small expense . These o f stitches are easily learned , which cannot be said elaborate

f fi fo r o ne to embroidery , and are illustrated su ciently any be self taught . The proper working materials will add greatly to the n . ca work , and for the fagoting , coral stitch , knot , etc , nothing o f Hem in a surpass the crochet and twisted silks the M . w y S S ons ilk Company , noted for their luster , evenness and rich

no w i coloring . They are also made n the fashionable dress n shades , enabli g one to ornament her gown with an exact match

in the way of decorative work . E dges are buttonholed or finished with the various feather 1 NO . o f o f stitches shown in illustration this article , which are

. 1 the narrow designs The irregular stitch of No . o f this collection n 2 i is know as the cat for some unknown reason . No . s a herring n o n o r bo e , which may be used an edge answer to connect edges , f o . O S 3 6 as it is really a species the fagot stitch N . and are decid edly coral stitches o f the

feather family , and are among the prettiest decorations fo r

finishing bands and edges . 4 7 o f No s . and are the f fagot order o stitches , now especially used for connect m ing sea s , bands , tiny bias c strips , etc . , in ne kwear and dressmaking ; properly speak

ing, these two illustrations are the plain and twisted R ussian

stitches , and , though shown caught in rows of butto nho l u r ing, they are us ally car ied back and forth from the edge

- 5 No . of the dress material .

i s a genuine feather stitch , 8 is c and No . alled a brier

StitCh is , though one perfectly

rm . 1 , 51 4 7 h . correct to style NO S. and fagot and the ot ers feather stitches B eautiful effects are obtained with the twisted silk fo r feather e f stitches on silk , cr pe de Chine and woolen gowns , and agoting

t Hem inwa . with croche silk , both of the y brand The illustrations plainly Show h o w the work is

done ; the stitches are to be firmly made , but not f drawn , and , according to present ashions , the r o c silk must be Of an a tistic match , white , or ,

c as io nal l . y, black The 9th figure shows a small piece o f hem

o r as m a stitching which may be wide narrow , it y be fo r a band o f openwork or merely to fasten

down a hem , indicating, in any case , the necessity f o pulling threads from the material . This stitch — F m . 2 . n r appears on fa cy linen a ticles centerpieces , f o o n f . o sideb ard covers , etc . , tucking , ru fles , etc , ornamental dress — making and to o tightly a pulled stitch must be guarded against . A combination of stitches often can be used with excellent 2 ffe as F i . e ct , in g , w h e r e t h e feather s t i t c h and F rench knot are arranged as a s tripe to divide clus ters o f tucks on the f o f i F o r ront and sleeves a s lk waist . the k n o t b r i n g up the needle threaded with crochet silk j ust where the kno t is wished ; hold the strand in the left hand and twist it t as around the needle one to four imes , the is ur size of the knot to b e , a n d ret n the

‘ n e e d l e through the I I G. 3 . foundati on near where

' it comes up , keeping the twists in o i der until the knot is thus f ormed and secured . The knot alone is a most use ful decoration for dotting a plain a surface, filling out laces and p li u i és . s to p q , etc It really easier s ay what not to use such orna mentation on than to decide a lim ited a us e ev mount of for it . S eral lace stitches are used in the openwork medallions that form entire yokes o r inlays o n a bodice or ski rt as lace motifs are ap

4 . a F IG . plied . These pieces show web

52 to as center , done with silk , according the fabric , crochet , twisted o r G silk Japan etching silk , and a reek cross or rosette center , fi h nished with a tiny bias band t at is fagoted to another band , and these , in turn , often have knots or feather stitching over them . i F i 3 . is The mot f Shown in g is used as medallions are , and made in a half feather stitch , with the outer edge Spread to keep the circular outline , u s i n g crochet silk which spreads a trifle i F . when worked . g 4 gives a method of sc alloping edges with the ordinary button hole stitch , padding with a few short un ders titches if ~ meces ~ a sary . Such finish can be used on dress ing sacques , flannel f petticoats , silk ru fles on silk petticoats , infants o f wear , fancy work and a host articles for the wardrobe , table, etc . ’ i s A useful motif the crow s foot , used by tailors to finish seams , pockets , buttonholes ,

i s h co y etc . It triangular in s ape and solidly B ered with stitches . ring the needle up at the lower left corner , carry it to the upper point , bring it up again at this latter point , and carry to the right corner , bring it up at the same and cross to the left corner , always keep ing up the same rotation with the stitches .

F I G . 5. The stars used fo r filling spaces are of fine stitches , all crossing at the center . D O not rough up your silk ; use moderately long strands , wash embroidery with Ivory soap and cultivate even work in all fancv stitches and both evenness and artistic shading in regular embro id

“ ” ‘ u ery or needle pict res . The last figure shows the oxhorn stitch , i 1 as s as F i . and divided into steps , the g are the horns first made ; 2 fo r 3 , manner of inserting needle the tie ; shows the needle mak 4 as ing the chain , and the finished stitch , which can be used any feather stitch would be . Care and experience will bring forth attractive results with

53 the fancy stitches , which are within the reach of all workers , while

. S skilled embroidery is a gift , cultivated though it may be ilk ,

e . cashmere , cr pe de Chine , Viyella flannel , albatross , etc , in white and colors , are decorated with outline and solid stitches and the ' two combined ; embroidery in one color of silk ; the best silks for H em inw a S all materials are those of y ons , as Japan floss for silk S e n fabrics , panish floss esp cially for fine work , and Japan etchi g

Silk and Turkish floss for the woolen materials before named.

In the regular embroidery entire evening gowns , waists , parts f o ff . dresses , as bands , cu s , bertha , etc , are thus decorated , and if the home worker is proficient in this art exquisite results are obtained for a moderate sum . Artistic designs are now found among stamping patterns , and many of the stores also have designs made to order of any shape or idea , and the only wonder is h o w we have done s o long without using more extensively the art of embroidery in home and professional dressmaking ; no w

o f all seem awake to its possibilities , and the air is full the work of the skilful needlewoman once more .

54

’ o ut F a bowl of naphtha and hang in the air to dry . A rench dyer says : Sponge both sides of black silk with spirits of wine and ” o n iron the wrong side .

IS l When the Silk soiled from wear , dusty and imp , souse it in a

in c l ear suds of Ivory soap and warm water , rinse / water , hang o ut to dry and while still damp iron with a moderately warm iron on the wrong side . There are several fluids for sponging

: E a black silk , and all are excellent qual parts of warm w ter and ff alcohol ; cold co ee , made strong and well strained ; stale beer ;

O l d o water in which an black glacé kid glove has been b iled , using a pint o f water to a glove and boiling it down to half o f that a quantity ; strain this pulpy mass , adding a little clear w ter if

‘ to o thick ; sponge with this ; resp o ng e with clear water ; partly dry w et and iron . One can also dry without ironing by pinning the pieces t o clean sheets Spread on a carpet in an unused room . B f orax and water is a ancied sponging fluid with some , using

B h as a teaspoonful to a pint o f water . lack satin that worn shiny m ay be dipped in naphtha and hung out ; the material should not

as f . be sponged , it destroys the surface of this abric An excellent

o f o n authority speaks sponging dirty , greasy looking silk both

O ff sides with a warm Ivory soap suds , wip ing the suds with a

f o f . resh wad silk , shaking and drying without ironing A strong f decoction o ivy leaves cleans black silk . The simplest plan is

s o w . often the best , try soap and ater first R emove any grease spots before commencing with the spong

' o f o i ing either black or colored silks , using a lump magnesia , . and rubbing it on well if the color will endure water ; or tear a

- a visiting card ap rt , and with the soft inside part rub and the F o grease will disappear . rench chalk removes grease and d es

no t . S injure colored silks crape a little on the spot , rub it in ,

- R f o ff. e and let it remain twenty our hours , and then brush it ii peat the process , necessary ; some grease Spots are hard to remove .

B is lack ribbons are cleaned j ust as black silk , and may be

- ironed or rolled smo othly over a broom handle until dry . I f

i s f o r the ribbon really soiled , brush it so tly sponge it with a f tablespoonful each of alcohol , so t soap and molasses ; mix well , and after using as a cleanser rinse the ribbon in cold water ; roll

o up in an old piece of cloth , and ir n when partly dry with a moderately hot iron . Black ribbons may be renovated by spong ing

- — them with a mixture of one third alcohol to two thirds water .

When partly dry iron them under a piece of black crinoline .

6 6 R ibbons are steamed by passing over a wet cloth thrown over a hot iron . To insure the steam going thoroughly through the o creases hold a wad of dry cloth over the ribb n , with it smoothing Us e o u . . t the creases This works much better than a brush clean , S f white cotton cloths . ome ta feta ribbons will not come out well ff a . by nything but pressing , with a wet cloth over I f sti , pull out th n e . on bias . Treat silks the same way Dip colored ribbo s into a bowl of naphtha to clean quickly ; also silk throws or scarfs and neckties are renewed in the sam e manner . Also try them in the warm soapsuds previously described . ' h t If h andker A very o iron Often discolors silk . a white silk chief was ironed with a medium iron and with a linen handkerchief

n . between the iro and silk , the latter would not yellow Clean colored Silk with water in which a kid glove the color of the silk has been boiled , using a new tin pan to boil it in ; strain and add a little hot water and ammo nia . Wash in this and put half a tea spoonful each o f borax and spirits of campho-r to a quart of the rinsing water and hang each piece up until it dries , but do not

f to iron . Colored silks are the most di ficult attempt improving , F but grease spots are removed with rench chalk , or rub over the ff E let o . stain a piece of wet magnesia ; it dry , and dust ther is also used on c olored silk . N ever rub silk vigorously . Japanese , China , India and pongee silks are freshened by washing in warm Ivory soapsuds , rinsing quickly and drying in the shade , rolled in a sheet for several hours n and then ironed o the wrong side . Keep white silk wrapped up in o e us e blue tissue paper , and it is not likely to yellow , but if it d s ,

- A m as . it cream colored , trying to bleach it is simply ruinous monia restores the color destroyed by fruit stains , but in turn often leaves a ring stain which m ay be removed with naphtha or 5 is chalk , though the writer personal experience not encouraging when meddling with colored silks . It is one of the things in life that the more experience you have with it the less you think yo u f know o it . If velvet is badly marred and will not steam up in a s atis fac

m iro ir w a tory manner , transform it into velvet by ironing it the y of the nap , moving the iron constantly . Velveteen and plush can be treated in the same manner and naturally a good velvet , as ” n Boulevard , comes out better after such a process tha a poorer material . All of the above fabrics are steamed in the same man

- and ner , using a whisk broom , a pan of boiling water , an obliging friend wh o will brush up the nap as you hold the goods taut over

57 t ri the steam the wrong side to the wa er . These mate als will look like new . This process removes wrinkles , brightens the color and makes the crushed nap stay up when brushed against the e grain , and will answer for black or colored pil fabrics . I f the velvet has a grease spot on it remove it with F rench chalk before steaming . A sticky spot may be lightly touched with clean , cold water before the steaming process is resorted to . B C lack woolen goods , as serge , heviot , cashmere , henrietta , F etc . , are easily cleaned . irst remove the grease spots with naphtha , remembering that this fluid is very explosive when ex posed to either a lamp or fire . Clean mud and ordinar y spots from a black dress with a rag of the same wet with warm water and

’ N soap . ever rub on the washboard a silk o r woolen fabric th at is being renovated , nor wring it tightly by twisting in the hands ; either put it through a wringer or pat it nearly dry between the T . o hands clean black goods make a lather of warm soapsuds , using a good soap without free alkali , like the Ivory , as a strong o f soap will ruin the goods , and a teaspoonful borax to every two quarts of water . Into this dip the goods up and down and wash between the hands ; then wring gently and pat partly dry ; hang in the shade , and when nearly dry iron on the wrong side with a e w . moderately arm iron Always rinse once in luk warm water , o and ir n until the material is perfectly dry . Wash alpaca in the

as — same manner above , adding a little gum arabic to the rinsing water .

is Paint removed with benzine , and if the latter leaves a stain u F like water s e rench chalk o n it . Water stains are frequently removed if the spo t is rubbed perfectly dry at once . o s ee Ammonia often turns black go ds gray , yet we repeatedly

t r e . i ecommended for cleaning spots , diluting it with warm wat r When black goods simply look rusty sponge them on the right side with a wad o f the fabric dipped in equal parts o f alcohol and warm water , and when nearly dry iron on the wrong side until If perfectly dry . mud leaves a stain after it has dried and been brushed o ff rub it with a wad of black goo ds dipped in Ivory soap A suds . fter ironing black woolens fold a full width down the

as o center in new go ds . A good w ashing fluid fo r black woolens consists o f soapsuds with a teaspoonful of borax to every two quarts . Souse the goods in this warm suds and rinse in very blue water ; then dry and

as . iron , directed above to If silk warp woolen goods begin shine , part of it may be

58 t h e o f removed with sponging alcohol and water , but the shine is soon returns and only entirely removed with redying the fabric , as the shine comes from the wool wearing away , exposing the silk in the warp . R emove grease from colored cashmere with F rench chalk . R ub O Ver it on the spot , then let it remain night , and in the O ff morning brush ; if necessary repeat the treatment . Wash a as o r colored woolen fabric , cashmere serge , in warm water , put ’ ting a teaspoonful each of beef s gall and ammonia to a pail of H . o f water ave the rinsing water ready , with a small portion ’ beef s gall in that , and wash and rinse quickly ; dry in the shade — — and iron on the wrong side with a warm not hot iron . The F water can be softened with borax . rench chalk can be used on o l G any col r and materia . rease is also removed by rub bing the spot with a lump o f wet magnesia and after it is dry o ff If f brushing the powder . a ast color the material can alway s ’ be washed in the suds made of a pure soap without the beef s gall its to keep color . Grass stains are removed from white woolens with cream o f r tartar and water o alcohol . White flannel gowns require care no t to shrink or become yellow unless a Viyella flannel is selected which does no t shrink when properly washed in a suds of warm no o n no r is water and Ivory soap , soap rubbed it the washboard e o f in necessary ; rins in clear water the same warmth , wrap a clo th until nearly dry after being pressed through a wringer and

' h m . t en iron on the wrong Side with a war , not hot , iron All white woolen dress goods may be cleaned in the same manner , using a cloth between the iron and the goods .

w - White oolens are dry cleaned with hot , dry flour or corn meal , o ff re rubbing the article in a large bowl of this , shaking it and in o n p eat g if necessary ; then iron the wrong side if creased , but

w . hanging in the evening air removes ordinary rinkles White , ’ knit shawls , babies sacques , etc . , are thus cleaned in flour or — h cornmeal , burying them in it for twenty four hours . W ite

flannel waists that are not much soiled are thus dry cleaned . White cloth revers , etc . , can be covered with salt for a night and then this rubbed o ff with a slice of stale bread , using the crumb . Pipe clay is used by military men fo r cleaning white materials . White woolens yellow from age may be whitened by washing in pure un Y soapsuds and drying in a warm s . ellow linen requires a

o ne . boiling in milk and soap , pound of soap to a gallon of milk Navy - blue flannel dresses are washed in bran and water with

59 cu th R a p of salt to settle e color . emove grass stains with o alcohol , which seldom sp ts even the most delicate color . They can be removed from muslin with molasses . In each case keep r covering the stain until it fades out . Silk vests o hose should be

- dipped in luke warm Ivory suds , patted between the hands , s rin ed , partly dried and then pulled into shape and ironed on the wrong side with a moderate iron . Knit sweaters will soon lose their color and shape if not an properly cleansed in hot soapsuds , but not rubbed , until cle , ut S when the water is pressed rather than wrung o . pread in an

o ut s un o n airy room of the a sheet , and pin down in the shape a that they should be when dry . Mildew stains dis ppear if rubbed a with a diluted solution of chloride of lime and then in clear w ter. If ’ white goods get any spots of sewing machine oil upon them , the stains may be removed by immersing them at once in clear . B cold water . lood stains may often be removed by washing them , no t using no soap , out in cold water, but if , saturate them in o il kerosene and then wash in warm water . e is o fo r w Ther a waterpro f crape wearing in damp eather , but is if the ordinary crape worn and gets rusty and slimsy, as it will f in time , it can be renovated at home after a ormula that I have R i o ut o f personally tested many times . p the hems veils , brush o ld r away all dust with an silk handkerchief , and wind the c ape o smoothly , catching it with pins , around a br omstick or clothes F h il r f . w as bo e f o stick ill the half ull water , and when it boils lay n o . the stick across it , the ends resting the edge lengthwise Keep the water boiling hard and steam the crape all day , turning the stick s o that every part o f the crape may be reached . Then put

as the stick away for twenty hours , the crape must be perfectly o l c dry before unpinning it . This gives it a go d b ack and it is risp to the touch . A cleansing fluid that has been very highly reco mmended to

as : G o ne me by a practical pharmacist is made follows asoline , o am gallon ; ether , one teaspoonful ; chloroform , one teaspo nful ; monia , two teaspoonfuls ; alcohol , one gill . Mix well , and do not us e f use near a fire or in a closed room . Do not the last hal cup if ful cleaning delicate colors , as the ammonia settles and will B u discolor light fabrics . y the last four drugs in quantities of an us e ounce , as it will be cheaper in the end , and keep for future is what not needed at once . This fluid cleanses silk and woolen materials and does not c an shrink the fabric, leaves a new finish , does not yellow white ,

6 0 be used on the most delicate colors and fabrics , and is very cheap . f Pour out su ficient of the fluid to cover the article to be cleaned , u o sing a china washb wl or new tin pan . Put the article in and

as wash you would in water , rubbing the soiled spots especially o o u with an old s ft to thbrush on a flat surface . Wring o t from this and rinse in a second portion of the fluid ; wring o ut again and hang in a draught until the fluid evaporates . Save the remain as ing fluid , it can be used a second time on dark materials , ’

e etc . like men s clothes , black dresses , carp ts , I f the article is too large to put into the fluid use a sponge or cloth similar in color t o the soiled fabric . This cleanser will not remove stains made

o r . by syrup sweets , which must first be washed in water

When color on a fabric has been destroyed by acid , ammonia f will neutralize the same , and after this using chloro orm restores S the original color . trong borax water will remove oil stains

- from cotton and linen . Tar and axle grease stains are the most O il discouraging known , but if taken at once , soap , of turpentine and water applied in turn will remove them from white cotton n and line . Colored cottons and woolens are smeared with lard , r anh o ur then ubbed with soap and water and left standing for , and finally washed with oil o f turpentine and water alternately . F o r fo r us e silks continue the same treatment as woolens , only benzine instead of turpentine ; dro p the water from a height on the under side o n the stain and do not rub the material . Try the o f o r mixture on a small piece the goods , upon a hidden portion of f the skirt acing .

' 6 1 CHAPTER XVI. T O C EA N SE ACE S FUR S E T L L , , C. F The best cleaners are the rench peo le , and they do not p — advise ironing lace , but if it is done have the ironing board well padded and put a cloth between the lace and iron . Do not dry o r black lace by the fire it will turn rusty . Wash black lace in a pint o f warm water with a teaspoonful of borax dissolved in it , us e Old and an black kid glove for a wad to sponge it with . B ff orax , diluted alcohol , beer , strained co ee and water in which a black kid glove has been boiled , are all excellent renovators for black laces , as is also cold strained tea .

o f art1 cle When drying lace the shape an , edge , etc . , must be retained and professionals us e for this smoo th boards padded with an old blanket and covered with clean white muslin , pinning down every purl of the edge , each scallop , etc . , until perfectly dry ; avoid n an iro on lace if possible , especially a very warm one . A simple

is O Ver method for freshening black lace to soak it in milk night , in rinse cold water and press lightly when nearly dry , using an old silk handkerchief under the iron . Another plan is to souse the lace in water containing a few drops , ten to a quart , of alkali volatile . When black lace is really dirty wash it first in a suds of cold ff water and Ivory soap and then use the cold tea , strained co ee or whatever may be preferred . Many prefer , after sponging the w lace , to ind it around a bottle filled with warm water and allow L f ing it to remain until quite dry . ace that has grown rusty rom dust should be well shaken and rinsed in a cup of water with a o f tablespoonful each alcohol and powdered borax ; pat nearly dry ,

o ut . pull the edges and iron , or dry over a bottle When sponging lace , rub from the selvage down so as not to pull it out of shape .

Gold and silver laces require their own special treatment . An E nglish method for silver lace is ammonia applied with an O ld

F o r s u nail brush , drying in the air . gold lace the following is g

: 1 . . . gested oz stale bread finely crumbled , oz magnesia , oz cream o f tartar made into a paste with spirits o f wine and applied o ff with a nail brush . When dry brush the crumbs and rub gently G with chamois leather . old and silver laces are also cleaned with grated breadcrumbs mixed with powdered blue . Sprinkle this

- fo r well mixed preparation over the lace a few hours , then brush o ff the crumbs with a piece of flannel and rub the metal gently o f o f with a piece red velvet , the color which is as important as

6 2 over the table , saving the sawdust that thus falls . Then lay the o f o r hair Side the fur down on two more pillows , according to the o f size the garment and beat well with a switch . Shake pillows occasionally and continue beating until all of the sawdust has been f removed . White urs are cleaned in a similar manner with white cornmeal . G rease is removed from fur with gasoline , remembering that it o f is very explosive , applied on a piece batting ; constant rubbing o f If and several renewals the gasoline are often necessary . this fails , do not become discouraged , for there remain Spirits of ether , T . o c oil of turpentine and benzine to be tried dye feathers bla k , first wash th em in a pint of boiling water in which h alf a teaspoon ful o f soda has been dissolved ; then rinse and put in the dissolved

b o f package dye as prepared for silk , holding y the tips the stems R and moving in the boiling water . inse in cold water , dry between soft cloth s and over a stove where they may be waved w r th e t in the a m air . If feathers come out o o light a black add more dye . f White wings are rubbed with any white ace powder . White f ostrich eathers are cleaned with flour or naphtha, and all are easily dyed black . They are curled by first heating them slightly , and then curl each flare over a dull knife ; but i f near a feather

as curler I would advise patronizing her , the professionals do it an far better than any amateur c . When feathers are worn in the rain or damp they should be dried at once over the stove , which G generally restores the curl . ray wings are to be gently rubbed o f through cornm eal and shaken . Aigrettes are washed in suds the purest so ap "Ivory"and shaken dry by the fire or in the s un. Let a Cube magnesia is used o n white felt hats . it st nd all

L - night and then brush o ff with a soft brush . ight colored felt hats may be rubbed over with a piece of white crinoline , the starch o f which cleanses the surface ; another plan is to us e white Us e cornmeal and then brush it o ff lightly . a soft brush at any B o ff as r . time to dust a felt nap , it oughens easily lack straw hats f may be given a new lease o f li e by revarnishing them , which

o f - really takes the place dyeing, using some black sealing wax d pounded into small pieces , and over which enough methylate o spirits to dissolve it h as been poured ; then mix th roughly, and apply with a soft brush to the hat , covering every crevice of the

’ B f straw . lue straw hats may be reshened in the same manner ,

- using blue sealing wax . When no t in use steel ornaments may be kept in a bo x o f

6 4 powdered starch . If they should become slightly rusty rub with spirits of wine and brown paper, polishing afterward with a

. uf chamois skin If decidedly rusty no gentle treatment will s fice .

S O il fo r - oak them in sweet well rubbed in forty eight hours , and rub then with a chamois and finely powdered , unslaked lime until the rust disapp ears . When jet passementerie looks dusty and rusty wip e it O ff with a wad o f black silk or cashmere dipped in diluted alcohol , and finally wipe dry with a clean rag . Silver n buttons are cleaned with ammonia and fla nel . All metal passe menterie sho uld be covered with tissue paper when not in use .

- Do the same with a patent leather belt . Tulle rosettes and folds which decorate summer stocks may be made to appear fresh and crisp by ripping them apart and passing the tulle thro ugh the steam of a pan of bo iling water . ff Chi on and silk mousseline may be renovated in the same way , fine but must afterward be pressed under a damp cloth . All white materials , white satin slippers and white laces , when not in use , — should be laid away in blue tissue paper to prevent their yellow ~ e o f ing . Delicate silk embroidery may be bright ned by sp irits ’ - a - to wine , using camel s hair brush , and being careful not stain

‘ the surrounding fabric . The odorless and good Omo dress shields can be washed in warm suds made with Ivory soap ,

is which pure , pulled into shape , and dried by pinning them up S in a window . oak genuine whalebones , when bent , in warm water, and then at the end of thirty minutes iron them out with G a hot iron . ilt braid can be kept a long time untarnished if in an airtig ht tin case .

6 5 A E CH PT R XVII .

T HE CA E OF O E S A ND S O R GL V H E S. Kid gloves must be in Oiled paper and a tin case in a tropical

- climate , ditto shoes . White and light colored kid gloves are cleaned on the hands with naphtha—remember its explosive qual — o ne ities until the gloves are perfectly dry . Put on glove and rub it with a clean piece of white flannel dipped into naphtha ; wet it all over , and then rub nearly dry with a second piece of flannel .

Do the second glove in the same manner , and let them remain on the hands until dry , in order to retain the shape ; dust on a little talcum powder , then hang in a window until the odor has left .

A sachet bag of white rose and orris ~ root powder in your glove box will keep gloves delightfully perfumed . White or yellow chamois or castor gloves worn in the sum

o n mer may be washed the hands , in a lather of Ivory soap and warm water , first rubbing the most soiled spots with magnesia . R inse in warm and then in cold water , keeping them on the hands u r o ff ntil nea ly dry , then pulling them in their proper shape and pinning them up in the air to dry . I have been told that powdered pipe clay will clean white glacé kid . Another way is to use ’ fullers earth and powdered alum in equal parts , rubbing it on the

o ff g loves with a clean paint brush then wipe the powder , sprinkle the gloves with bran and shake both powder and bran off . Mend kid gloves with a glove needle and cotton of the shade

used in the seaming ; follow the style of sewing , which may be and buttonhole stitches , the edges lapped , stitched or sewed “ d through and through in a prick seam . Always men gloves on

the right side . I f a hole is worn or pulled apart do not pull the

edges together and spoil the shape , but work all around the edge f with one or more rows o buttonholing which will fill the Space ,

joining the last rows by a line of over and over stitches . B lack gloves which have grown white at the seams and finger tips may be lightly brushed with the tip of a feather dipped in a teaspoonful of salad oil in which a few drops of black ink have

been dissolved . This is only for glacé kid , which may also be renovated with ink alone and each spot rubbed afterward with e flannel dipped in sweet oil . The ink may be used on su de gloves ,

E - but not the oil . An nglish authority claims that light colored suedes may be washed and dried on the hands or a pair of box

wood forms , using soap boiled in milk as a suds , and rubbing

6 6 n them with flan el . then with warm water , and finally a dry n fla nel . I have never tried this plan , but have cleaned Slightly e o o r soiled su de gl ves with cornmeal dry bread , rubbing it over n them and the using a clean piece of white flannel .

k and - o All blac leather or kid shoes , tan colored as well , sh uld be washed now and then with a piece of flannel dipped in a ’ ff lukewarm suds of Ivory soap . When one s pocketbook can a ord it have two pair of street shoes and two pair for the house , as experience teaches that changing them every day makes them last B twice as long as when worn constantly . esides this nothing is more restful for tender or tired feet than a fresh pair of shoes during the

o day . If shoes creak , b re tiny holes through the outer sole and fill

c with oil . When a shoe pinches in one spot lay a cloth lipped in e n very hot wat r over the place , renewi g the heat as the water in cools , and this will shape the leather to the foot . Keep shoes F ventilated box or drawer in a shoe bag . asten shoes firmly

th e . across instep and ankles , and loosely over the ball of the foot The heavy calfskin shoes so Often worn nowadays in rain y weather are rendered waterproof by greasing them with mutton tallow and then rubbing with ink and sweet oil in preference to n F “ ” a y blacking . oot forms or trees are used by some persons for every pair of shoes not in use ; others keep slippers and ties Pat stuffed with tissue paper and the former wrapped in same . — ent leather ties are cleaned with flannel and shoe cream , rubbing the cream on with o ne cloth and wiping the shoe dry with the

second piece of flannel ; then wrap the ties in flannel , as patent

leather loses its shine if exposed to the damp , dust or outside air . An occasional rubbing with cold cream o n a bit of flannel before using any prepared dressing will keep any shoes soft and S S e e . flexible . u de slippers are cleaned like su de gloves atin Slip

pers are treated with bran or powdered magnesia , rubbing either

ff - in well and then brushing O . Tan colored leather shoes are cleaned with a flannel cloth moistened with a little turpentine or

with some of the various pastes sold especially for these shoes . When shoes have been wet and covered with mud they will f dry in a sti f , uncomfortable manner , unless rubbed at once with

flannel , removing the water and mud ; and rub with kerosene

oil , using the indispensable flannel , and let them partly dry , when

a second rubbing with O il or vaseline is given . Allow them to g dry in a warm nook , and finally apply the liquid or paste dressin

that gives the desired polish .

6 7 CHAPTER XVIII. AT IS CO E CT MO I WH RR URN N G.

Within the life of each O f us comes the sorrowful time when mourning attire is necessary , and comparatively few know what fabrics sho uld be used during this period or how they should be G made up in order to be thoroughly correct . ood mourning, V which , of course , includes crape , is ery handsome and refined in its appearance , and , while the first outlay is seemingly expensive , the materials last a long time . w ’ I al ays prefer Priestley s black goods , for their durability ,

o variety and unif rm black . It is an easy matter to know when you receive these fabrics as they are all stamped upon the selvage ’ fi rm with the s name . As black gowns are fashionable for those

' O f in and out mourning , it is not an extravagance to buy them

of good quality , as they can be cleaned and made over as no other f abric may be .

o The deepest mourning is that worn by a wid w , who dons ’ E o f Courtauld s nglish crape for at least a year , if conservative H er ideas . first dress should be of eudora , which is a smooth .

~ s ilk w arp material that may be spoken o f as a perfected henrietta .

This latter name , however , has been so abused by using it for

- - all woo l goods that it no longer means only a silk warp fabric . E udora more than fills its place , possessing a handsome luster i and feel and s of a pure silk warp . This trims well with crape

and should be made up in the prevailing fashion , without going

to the extreme . An entire suit usually forms the first costume

intended for street wear . In using E nglish crapes see that the crimps run from the left E to right , diagonally . ven dressmakers sometimes err in making If up crape on the wrong side . cut on the bias crape will present straight lines ; it is so pliable that it can be shaped to any foun F o r dation and should be perfectly smooth , never puckered . a

time the use of crape ceased to a great extent , but it is worn again L exclusively in such fashion centers as Paris , ondon , Vienna . B s atis fac erlin and New York . Use it properly and it will prove

do C . tory , but not labor under the idea that it wears as a heviot Crape should not be placed on the bottom of a skirt where hard wear comes and if arranged as a flat trimming it shows to the T best advantage . here is a waterproof crape used for veils and ’ N trimmings of Courtauld s manufacture . owadays people don

6 S c ertainl colors after the plainest black garb , but it is v in better f g . taste not to wear the bri htest shades first A ter wearing crape , colors should not be adop ted without an interval devoted to plain black . Mourning has been defined as an outward mark of n ff i ward a ection and respect and often prevents unkind remarks , as the wearing of crape tells the thoughtless inquirer that the f wearer has su fered a loss which is at once respected . E The nglish nation observes the etiquette of mourning strictly , as may be seen from the following list issued by the highest s o ciet : A y widow wears crape one year , plain black nine months and hal f mourning three ; a daughter for parents wears crape six months , black three and half mourning for three months ; a

' fo r a ch ild mother wears crape six months , black three and half mourning three months ; a sister dons crape for three , black for — two and half mourning for one month ; a grand daughter wears crape for three months , ditto black and half mourning , or nine months in all ; a niece wears plain black fo r two and second m a ourning for one month ; cousin wears for a cousin , black and half mourning each for a month . It is correct to wear mourning ’ f for a husband s relations as o r your own . ’ Widows crape veils are bought ready made , with woven hems or by the yard and the hems blind stitched . When complete the correct veil reaches the waistline at the back where the hem is

- three inches deep , and to the knees in front where an eight inch hem is taken ; longer than this they are of the extreme schoo l .

is o o f This veil draped over a small b nnet , usually the Marie S ’ tuart shape , which is plainly covered with crape , has milliner s f o n olds the edge , a white ruche inside and tucked white lawn or black grosgrain ties ; the veil fastens on in close cross plaits , each caught with a dull jet pin . At the end of three months this veil is usually worn thrown back , the deep hem uppermost , and pinned thus to the bonnet ; over the face then is worn a short veil of plain Brussels net or one edged with tucks , a fold of crape or two or three rows of tiny black grosgrain ribbon . — ’ The silk - warp and all woo l nun s veiling are used for travel

o . ing, rainy days and warm weather with a b nnet of the same

After discarding crape a widow wears a hat , usually of straw or e . S felt , trimmed with wings , silk ribbon , black flowers , etc u de gloves are worn as long as in deep mourning , glacé gloves after — - ward , also onyx jewelry and a silk watch guard black bordered handkerchiefs are worn with crape or plain black . At this time

o white lisse can be w rn in the neck and sleeves , and even with

6 9 her first mourning a widow wears a turnover collar and cuffs o f o r batiste lawn , hemstitched . Pu re White for house wear is considered correct in all mourn B c ing . la k and white piqué suits are worn in summer with a o r c white bla k lawn shirt waist . A second gown for a widow may

o f be of silk and wool or all wool crape cloth a crimpy weave , o r a rough cheviot , an imperial serge , a voile , étamine , soleil wool satin , as it has a rich , glossy sheen and a soft wool texture . Another gown for any mourning is tamise of a hard twisted tex w ture and silk warp clairette , which is a feather eight that shakes

all dust . With the exception of crape cloth all of these materials are as handsome for those out o f mourning as the mourners wear a ing it , as a handsome bl ck is always in style . A'nother material especially appropriate for mourning is the

o f V f black and white designs iyella in stripes , jacquard e fects , fi s gures , etc . It answers for waists , house gowns , kimono , dress m ff ing sacques and full suits for the sum er , a ording a fashionable

- coat suit or shirt waist costume and washing perfectly . In pure white with a black sash Viyella forms an attractive frock for

young people desiring a white wool house dress for mourning . The soft gray patterns of this fabric form charming waists for

light mourning .

With us a child wears deep mourning for a parent a year , or a six months and lighter for a year , the s me rule holding good

for a parent wearing mourning for a child , a sister for a brother ,

a grandparent , etc . I f a daughter does not wear crape , white f neckwear is allowed at all times . Ostrich eathers , velvet , gold

j ewelry , etc . , are not admissible until crape and even plain black er ared have been discarded . The ordinary styles p p for colored

gowns are to be used in mourning , only without the elaborate

trimmings ; folds , bands , braids , etc . , are generally worn ; a hand

some garniture after discarding crape can be of stitched bands ,

folds o r accessories of Mo neybak taffeta . The first full dress

- gown used in mourning can be of this rich appearing material , with trimming of em broidered chiffon appliqué or a touch of jet y o ung and matronl y women wear semi - evening costumes o f this f ta feta .

70

— o rder. B Any trimming put on an edge or j ust above it . — B o nclé Tiny loc ks of hair scattered over the surface o f a woolen fabric . u f —A f ff o f ant. B very ull e ect .

’ o ni l e — B l o nne . A ffi pu ng .

B ur —R o r n o ette. ough threads k ots appearing as straight or broken stripes .

racel u —A B et C ff straight band around the arm . — retell e. S B ometimes called suspender trimming, as it extends from the shoul der—back and front or in front only—to the belt or edge of the bodice .

B ro ch al wri t B ro cade —R s o ten . é " " esembling embroidery , ff though the e ect is obtained bv weaving . ro —E B d . ff é mbroidered e ects .

bo o ns —L o a ch . . C arge jet , steel , pearl , etc , nailheads or bro ches used in passementerie and fo r millinery .

i i l —F k e Carac e. ine Astra han fur , looking as though it had b en m o iréd or watered . —A Carrean square or check figure . — Changeant and Cham el eo n Changeable effects from w eav ing two or three colors together . f - hi . C fi o n. The softest thin silk material manufactured

’ —E ff w eav Chine. ects obtained by printing the warp before

o f . ing , making the filling then a plain color — "Th o ma A large rosette like a cabbage . F l — ir ul un e. as C c ar o c One cut a circle , upper edge plain and

o n lower e full .

o ll —L C arette. arge collar of various shapes covering the shoulders .

- l t A . Co l e . small cape or large collar re e Lis s a—A C p light silk fabric , very thin and transparent , but feeling like crape . — Cras h B el t One of soft folds .

— - fittin ui A . C ras s e. perfectly plain , tight g waist e — — D res d n Warp print figures , like those used on Dresden ch ina .

D ro Skirt —A p skirt of the dress material , made up separate from the lining and then hung or dropped from the same belt . — u . D ch es s e. The best satin fabric known —A D utch N ec k. square or round neck cut down only two inches below the throat .

- A . E paul ette. trimming to fall over the shoulders

72 — ’ E to n Short jacket after the style of the boys uniform at the E ton school . a nné —F F go . ancy . i —A n to . F ag o t ng . embroidery stitch used connect edges

F ill F ran o is e—A s a e c ilken material having a soft cord . — F eather Stitc hing Similar also to coral and briar stitches used in ornamental handwork and embroidery now applied to dressmaking . F i hn —A c . o small cape , usually having long ends in fr nt . F ren B k —A — ch ac . name applied to a single or double pointed yoke on a shirt waist .

F K —A - rench no t. n embroidery stitch used in hand made trim ming . — F rench Go tha m Gathers made o f one long stitch o n the out side and one underneath , and alternating .

F ro ust —B g raid ornaments .

— - F ull B ach The straight back widths o f a skirt gathered in two rows at the top . — all n n P t i . G o o a d as s ernen er e. B s ead , ilk , spangles , etc , dress

trimming s . ’ —A i Gaufi re. n effect seen in silk where the material s pressed f into orms or p atterns . — Gauntl et Cuff One shaped like the gauntlet o n a riding glove modeled after the spreading cuffs o n the ancient mailed f glo ves o knights . i — ff o f G g o t. Sleeves in a large pu at the top the arm and close

below . Girdl e—A f r u o . cord , shaped belt or cinct re the waistline ' la — G ce. n "See changea t . "When applied to kid gloves it

means a smooth or d ressed surface . o r —A G g et. high collar shaped low in front o n the lower

edge , like the collars of the coats of mail formerly worn by

knights . Granite —A n ff armure e ect in both s ilk and woolen goods . Gro r in Lo n r E — s G a Gro s de d es ta S s . , , mall ribbed silk good ni —Y r G rnpe. oke o f white o colored material usually worn by

children . H r uin— r a l eq O f three o more separate colors . [in ni t — fi e Printed . I ide ent; R w f r s c s . ainbo , shot and changeable e fect — fo r Iv o r A . y pure soap used cleansing all materials , etc

73 — Jabo t. A o f a h trimming, usually l ce , which is gat ered v erv . f as ull and allowed to fall it will in shells . i er — Jard ni e. o ff o f s Col r e ects resembling a g arden flower . Lan — c . S s etit o is é mall dot ; also written p s p . L — a el s . See p revers .

- — — Leg o fMutto n Sl eev e One full at the top and close fitting at

o f . the wrist , shaped similar to a leg mutton Libert atin—A S f s . y so t , lustrou satin L i —A o u s ine. thin , soft silk .

Lo uis X VI R e ence D irec to ire E ire Vi cto ria/n o l o nial , , m , , C , — g p E ta Styles that prevailed at certain periods in different coun tries . Mélan — e. A g mixed effect of two o r more colors . — Merv eill eux n R s f o f s . a d hadani e . O the satin , class good

— - Mi r . ro ir Vel v et. Looking glas s effects obtained by i oning ’ — Mo ire. A o water effect like spreading waves ver a silk , cot o r f ton woolen sur ace . — Mo e k A f ff a . n ba . o famous brand silk ta eta , pe u de soie , etc y — Mati o f s . . as f f Part of a design , a lea from a spray flower ' Mo u l i — s s e ine ae So e Transparent silk material . ’ — - ~ a re o f earl ff . N c . Mother e ects — p N att . é The basket weave . l l — as N N atura o o r. fl x C The grayish a shade known atural , viz . , undyed . 1 O tto m an—A r large rep o rib . —N a O riental ers ian as hm ere l ndienne. , P , C , ames applied to series o f colors and patterns formerly found on cashmere shawls . ill te — a e S o f . P t . pangles gelatine l n — as tro . A P full front to a waist . — Panel A straight o r tapering piece s et in the front or sides

o f of a skirt , usually between rows trimming, so as to give the

o f idea an inlay . d P o ul i — f Peau an t de So e O f the family o satins . — Piping A tiny bias fold put o n the edge o f a band o r garment m as an orna ental finish . l — ' f f o r o . P ac ket. The opening le t at the side back a skirt — Plait Kni fe plaits are narrow folds turned to one side ; box plaits have a fold turned toward either side , and double and triple box plaits have two o r three folds ; kilt plaits are single folds turned one way . — Pl u tis . ni e . Printed and dotted fabrics

74 P o inti l — l . é —Dotted . P o l o nais e A waist and overskirt combined in one g arment ; f o f P taken rom the national costume oland . P o m ado ur E ects — s s as was p ff Mixed colorings in light hade ,

n o f L XV and . P u . wor in the time ouis . Mme de ompado r i i —F P o s t l o n. lat back to a basque formed by extensions on the center back pieces or s eparate tabs . Pres de So ie—A fine s cotton lining, u ed for drops and i s k rts . Prin es s —A s o f s s r c . tyle dress in which the wai t and ki t are

n - made in o e piece breadth s from neck to feet . i ’ — u dr lle. "a Small checks or squares . uillin —A ff u n is er fu l " g . narrow plait e ect ; a rose q illi g a v y l s o as to e an triple box plaiting stitched through the middle , hav

ff r - e ect like a o w of full blown roses . R — a . yé Striped . R edin t —A o e. n n s s le g outside garment cut in pri ces ty , with a

skirt front beneath . R ev ers —Po o r o r inted square pieces turned back reversed ,

usually o n the front o f a waist . R u h e —A f o . in s c . o trimming lace , silk , ribb n , etc , laid plait

and stitched in the middle or toward one side . in ill n — l S t a t . eab e c e Chang . — Shaped B el t One made of folds or a plain piece o f material laid over a boned lining shaped to fit over the waistline and below f h it, being a little deeper in ront t an at the back where it rounds f up according to the orm . hi — rr. T r o f S wo o more rows gathers having a space between . — m kin . A ff fo r S o c . g peculiar e ect used elastic yokes , etc ,

caused by gathering the material in bunches here and there . ut — f o ache. o S The narrowest trimming braids . —A Spanis h F l o unce. flounce extending fully half the depth f f of the skirt , gathered usually to orm an erect ru fle .

l —A r o Sto ck Co lar. full or plain colla in imitation f the stocks

of fifty years ag o .

Straw — o r Paste artificial diamonds , also called rhinestones . u K i — S ede d. Undressed kid ; a skin from which the outer part h as been rubbed o ff or skinned . Surah —A . soft silk woven in nearly invisible cords . Taffeta —A o f smooth weave silk . Van — ff d ke. P y ointed e ects seen in laces , trimmings , etc .

Vel o ur - . Velvet . 75 — V - es t. A fi at center front trimming fo r a wais t and al so a

separate g arment . Vi ell — a. A n e E y unshrinking , pur wool nglish flannel .

- V h - - S o ed. p A n expression applied to a low necked waist cut out in the shape O f a V at the neck ; also used to designate “the s hape of vests . Wattean F l —A o d. bo x plait down the center O f the back O f a is princess gown , which laid only from the neck to the waistline and then hangs free . Y — o ke. A O f u trimming a sq are , round o r pointed shape fo r the chest and shoulders . ibelin — " e. Woolen material having long hairs .

CHA PTE R XX .

RE T GO WNIN F A LL I COR C G O R O CCA S O NS.

One secret o f being a well - dressed woman is to understand

us f r ff o c the proper materials , styles and colors to e o di erent no t to n o u casions , and show , by do ning the wrong attire , that y s s are not accustomed to such functions . In a light degree climate u but s r and countries change s ch rules , there are tanda d usages that pass in every clime . The variety in materials has increased s o that o ne i s never n f n o f us at a loss for a selectio and , ortunately for ma y , there few no t are but that are repeated in less expensive goods , and with taste and skill used o n a gown elegant materials are not s o neces sary as that it should suit the individual wearing it ; many O f the

- best dressed , most stylish women seen are not those spending n the greatest amount o their clothes . On a stormy day what is neater than a Wo o ltex tailored costume Of a dark color worn under a long coat Of cravenette ? When a pleasanter day dawns omit the coat and wear the s uit o r fo r shopping , traveling informal visiting , selecting black ,

o r ff fo r tan , blue , brown gray e ects ; the long coat is also worn NO s ee traveling and driving . matter what gown is worn , that it that fits as goes over a corset and a petticoat Of correct shape , h F H S t e Sorosis , as well as the oster ose upporter , as the under wear greatly influences the appearance O i the frock . Mo ne bak ff F o r dressy visiting such gowns as o ne Of y ta eta ,

f s - s o fas e colored voile or any o the emi transparent wools hionabl ,

76 f n ff so en un oulard , po gee , linen , jasper silk e ects Oft called g s s as s o metal hade , broadcloth , velvet , mohair, etc , the eas n may r a li ue demand ; the extensive t immings Of lace , silk galloon , pp q ,

etc . s o as o r hand embroidery , , are used to make the g wn ve y o r n is n fo r elaborate simple and yet dressy, but such a gow wor s f o f f e matinée , visiting, driving and day uncti ns be ore noon ; a t r that lighter colors and more trimming render theattire more

f 1 2 M . ceremonious as the occasions a ter . prove to be

o n r a t , An afterno n reception , din e at a f shionable ho el , the o u theater , evening wedding, etc . demand a semi evening c st me which varies from a “ real ” lace princess gown to o ne Of silk and cotton mousseline at 50 cents,but it must be light - co l th e ored , dressy to extreme and and much trimmed , with such a costum e a most picturesque o r r feather , lace flowe hat is n wor , and an elaborate half long coat where fashion can be followed irrespective o f the ex pense involved . F o r a matron a gown O f

' B oulevard velvet - O I Mo neybak taffeta will form a standby fo r any afternoo n o r evening function , the amount and style Of trimming making the attire plain o r dressy to a point Of fu being ssy . A long or hal f long coat Of the taffeta i s also n n rm a most conve ie t ga ent , as A VI YE LLA IR it can be worn during the G L day or evening by all ages . A gown Of black voile "veiling" e aff with coat to correspond , both lined with handsom black t eta , form a costume fo r a middle - aged or elderly woman whos e us e s r d r fulne s can ha dly be esc ibed in these days . e u s , Trav ling s it have changed more than any style of dress i u during the past five years , and it s niversally conceded that American s dress better while journeying than any other nation ; s O f their g owns are di tinctly two styles , the tailored jacket s uit and the shirt- waist dress , the latter being Of checked or striped 77 taffe e f the m xed as er taffetas a ta, dott d oulard , i g ray j p , bl ck f u r n nen et Th e c . e su t o la d , po g e , li , i with jacket Or fitted co at no w is o f o r r v in vogue cloth , mixed tweed , plain c a enett e mohair,

x wo n as s u s i mi ed linen , and various ols know iting made n tail or style and usually worn with a shirt w aist .

e O f s s as th The girl Of outdoor sports needs another lin uit , e r f O f e illust ation gives the hint Of in a gol suit Viyella flann l , which e as would also answer for tennis or for morning wear at hom , a flannel dress that washes without shrinking or fading i s o ne no

s O f girl wishes to mis the Opportunity having. The same material in plain or striped effects forms the useful shirt waist to be worn h n w s n o f e r wit piqué , line or oolen skirts at any sea o the y a ; a i s u flannel waist us ally termed négligée , but this flannel when

and d r s u r s s . stylishly made han embroide ed , become nusually d e y Th e separate waist and skirt is not as stylish a cos tume as e o ne but is so th material dress , it convenient that the waist will “ ” ’ no t at b s t fas down any one s ehest , especially ince the pret y hion O f h wi r f trimming t e waists th embroide y or ancy stitching, lace , F o r the t l e buttons and silk pendants came in . woman wi h a imit d “ ”

. us and fo r ev wardrobe the separate waist remain s a m t have , en is O f ff f as de c n ing wear lace , chi on plaited , so t silk peau yg e ,

the f ri . s e . loui in , etc , white being largely avo te D a O f B r y wear waists are flannel , Viyella, ouleva d dotted vel r vet , linen , piqué , Madras , lawn , damask , albatross , mohai , cash e C C f f ff mere , cr pe de hine , hallis , oulard , p ongee , ancy ta eta , Mo ne bak ff o y black ta eta , voile and numerous dress go ds that come o f s uf and go with every season , making the variety materials

ficientl r s f r y la ge to atis y eve y , purse , taste and complexion ; when selecting do not forget to consult the complexion as well as th e uses to which the waist will be put ; making becoming ness and individuality the keynotes in dress whether $5 o r $500 can be spent on the gown .

’ Mm e. Caro l i ne s N e P l us Ul tra F ac e R es to re r and

F l es h F o o d.

’ Mm e Ca o ne s re a n res to re res h nes s fi m nes s n n . at o s a d c a r li p p r i f , r l e r es s to a e w o rn c o m ex o ns n a o uth fu o w and e s m o o th s k n . Th e f d d , p l i , g ivi g y l g l v ry i R es to e no t o n em o es F rec k es T an B ac kh ea s Liv ers o ts and r r ly r v l , , l d , p I i rm s n Wr nk es but a s o re ents th em . t s h a e s a d e a e in ffe ent i l , l p v l , p r p r d di r r l l a es Th i n t new unkno wn reatm ent th o u h s tren th s fo a . s s o a t s e m g g i , , g ldo a ert s e ex c e t in a few s e ec t as h o n m a az nes as al l a es o rtunate dv i d , p l f i g i , l di , f in e n to O f it b th e m uc h—m ro e en s a e t s e th e enu ne b i g ld y ir i p v d fri d , dv r i g i l - es h e s ec a s t Mm n w i s a t c es re a e b th e O d ta s e. Ca o e ho r i l p p r d y bli d p i li , r li , n 6 6 y ear s o f ag e and l o o k s 2 0 y ears y o u g er. T O reta n th e eaut o f o ur h ai w lnl e o un us e h H a r t G o . i b y y r y g , e i r w er If th e h a i s ra us e th e R o al Wi nds o r F renc h H ai r R es to rer ir g y , y . n F an e no t a d e T est1m o nial s and ree a c e urn s h e o n "m ade i r c "; y . f dvi f i d e uest r q .

Mm e. aro l i n C e, “ R el i abl e D erm a to l o g is t a nd J o l e A g ent fo r th e R o y al Wi nds o r n G ray H a i r R es to rer "Ma de i F ra nc e".

‘ i x t A v e N ew Yo r Y P arl o rs : 2 1 9 J h " k, N . .

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