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Princess Coats from the '50S Are Some of the Most Breathtaking

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INTRODUCTION rincess coats from the ’50s are some of the most breathtaking examples of vintage glamour. These dramatic tailored coats had Pfull skirts, nipped waists, beautiful shawl collars, and dazzling oversized sleeves. Made in lush wools and velvets with a range of striking trims and custom-made buttons, the sight of a mid-century princess coat is enchanting to anyone who comes across one. Lilli Ann was the premiere fashion label behind these coats, and they are highly collectible today—with sky-high price tags (if you can manage to find one in your size). THE PRINCESS COAT INSTRUCTIONS | 5 Lilli Ann was founded in the ’30s Your Own Adventure” instructions let you be the mistress of your own by Adolph Schulman, who named sewing destiny by guiding you through the process for your unique the company for his wife Lillian. design choices. The San Francisco-based company specialized in suits and coats and When I first started learning vintage garment sewing techniques, became known for their beautiful tailoring a princess coat was my holy grail of sewing projects. I taught fabrics and quality manufacturing. myself high-end tailoring techniques by reading vintage sewing books Their ad campaigns were pure and studying every text on the subject I could find. Eventually I made glamour, featuring wasp-waisted a beautiful candy apple-red coat with a shawl collar, a full skirt, and a models like Dorian Leigh and silk polka dot lining. I’ll never forget how proud I was of that project high-profile photographers like and what a milestone it was for me in my sewing journey. Designing Richard Avedon. The poses this pattern has been especially meaningful for me because of that red were highly stylized and the coat: I hope I can pass on the joy of tailoring a truly beautiful piece silhouettes beyond dramatic. of clothing by hand. Don’t forget to share your photos with me—and (Some of my favorite Lilli Ann ads remember to enjoy every step of the process! feature models walking dogs, which is why I had to get my own little xoxo, Gertie chihuahua, Hattie, involved at the Charm Patterns photo shoot.) The garments that remain from this era are truly stunning; they represent the height of mid-century glamour in silhouette, workmanship, and luxury. The good news is that princess coats are both fun and incredibly satisfying to make for yourself, so you don’t have to wait for the perfect vintage piece to come along in your size. Armed with a little fitting and tailoring knowledge (which I will guide you through on pages 16–23), it’s not out of reach to make this style for yourself. The best part is that you can fit our Princess Coat pattern to your own unique figure, making it a truly custom-fit, bespoke piece of clothing. Our range of sizes 2–20 (plus cup sizes in A–H) make this style truly accessible to anyone with a sewing machine and a little gumption. Of course, here at Charm Patterns we specialize in pairing vintage glamour with enough options and information to satisfy modern home sewists. That’s why we have options for both jackets and coats in this pattern, with a range of interchangeable sleeves (both slim and tailored or full and flamboyant), collar variations, and even a flared peplum (to get that dramatic Lilli Ann suit silhouette!). Our famous “Choose 6 | THE PRINCESS COAT INSTRUCTIONS THE PRINCESS COAT INSTRUCTIONS | 7 DESIGN YOUR PRINCESS COAT DESIGN OPTIONS Bodice Notched Shawl Collar Shawl Collar (Back view) Use this worksheet to Full Skirt sketch, plan, and estimate yardage for your coat! Peplum Bell Sleeve Tailored Sleeve (Long or Three-Quarter) Lantern Sleeve SOME POSSIBLE COMBINATIONS Cropped Jacket with Three-Quarter Tailored Sleeve Coat with Lantern Sleeve OPTION PIECE #s YARDAGE FABRIC Collar Jacket with Bell Sleeve and Peplum Sleeve Coat with Tailored Sleeve Skirt Cropped Jacket with Lantern Sleeve NOTES: 8 | THE PRINCESS COAT INSTRUCTIONS THE PRINCESS COAT INSTRUCTIONS | 9 REQUIRED YARDAGE & CUTTING Bodice Lining 18 19 (18, 19, 20, 21) 21 19 LAYOUTS 21 15 18 14 Sizes Sizes 19 18 Note: all pattern pieces are shown in a “without nap” layout. You may 2–10 12–20 20 21 need additional yardage for directional prints, stripes, plaids, and other 1 yd 1 yd FOLD 45 in .9 m .9 m 45 in, sizes 2-10 20 20 prints that need to be matched across seamlines. 5/8 yd 3/4 yd 60 in FOLD FOLD .6 m .7 m 18 60 in, sizes 2-10 60 in, sizes 12-20 KEY TO LAYOUTS Be sure to note whether the pieces are 21 cut 13on a double or single layer of fabric. Right side of Wrong side of For a double layer, there will be a note 19 20 pattern piece15 pattern piece indicating FOLD on the layout. FOLD 45 in, sizes 12-20 Bodice NOTE: cut 4 piece 37 Bell Sleeve (9, 12) Bell Sleeve Lining (22) Bell Sleeve (1, 2, 3, 4, 13, 14, 37) 1 37 in organza (12) 37 2 Sizes Sizes NOTE: if Interfacing for bound Sizes Sizes 2–20 2–20 you'd like to 13 buttonhole Sizes 2–10 12–20 3 45 in, 11/2 yd 45 in, 11/8 yd add extra 2–20 13/4 yd 2 yd 14 openings in 60 in 1.4 m 60 in 1 m 45 in body to the 3/8 yd 1.6 m 1.8 m FOLD facing. 60 in 45 in, sizes 2-10 Bell Sleeve 0.3 m 12 13/8 yd 11/2 yd or Lantern 60 in 1.3 m 1.4 m Sleeve, cut 13 1 pattern pieces in 12 2 interfacing 12 3 4 as well 14 37 as fabric, FOLD 9 45 in, sizes 12-20 22 following layouts and 37 4 yardages FOLD FOLD provided. 1 1 3 13 4 3 37 2 Lantern Lantern Sizes Lantern Sleeve 2 13 Sizes Sleeve 2–20 Sleeve 2–20 Interfacing (11) 14 14 45 in, 13/4 yd Lining 45 in, 13/4 yd (9, 10, 11) Sizes FOLD FOLD 60 in 1.6 m (22, 10) 60 in 1.6 m 60 in, sizes 2-10 60 in, sizes 12-20 2–20 1/4 yd 60 in .2 m Bodice Back Stay 10 10 Interfacing Muslin (27) 1 (1, 13, 14, 25, 26) Sizes 2–20 11 Sizes 25 27 2–20 26 45 in, 1/2 yd 9 22 13 60 in .5 m 1 yd FOLD 11 60 in .9 m 14 11 FOLD FOLD FOLD 12 | THE PRINCESS COAT INSTRUCTIONS THE PRINCESS COAT INSTRUCTIONS | 13 Tailored Sleeve Tailored Sleeve (Long or Full Skirt Facings, (Long or Three-Quarter) Three-Quarter) Lining Fabric and Interfacing Sizes Sizes (15, 16, 17) Sizes 2–20 2–20 2–20 17 33 35 45 in, 3/4 yd 45 in, 3/4 yd 11/2 yd 60 in .7 m 60 in .7 m 45 in 1.4 m 34 36 3/4 yd 60 in .7 m FOLD FOLD 16 Full Skirt 15 15 (5, 6, 7, 8, 15) 6 Sizes Sizes 7 FOLD 2–10 12–20 31/4 yd 31/2 yd 45 in 3 m 3.2 m 5 8 21/8 yd 23/8 yd 60 in 1.9 m 2.2 m FOLD 60 in, sizes 2-20 Peplum 28 28 (28, 29, 30, 31) 30 29 15 5 Sizes Sizes 29 31 31 2–10 12–20 30 6 8 7 3/4 yd 1 yd 45 in .7 m .9 m FOLD FOLD 45 in, sizes 2-10 45 in, sizes 12-20 3/4 yd 3/4 yd FOLD 60 in 45 in, sizes 2-20 .7 m .7 m 28 28 Full Skirt Lining 31 29 30 6, 7, 8, 23, 24) 31 6 7 Sizes Sizes 29 30 2–10 12–20 24 3 yd 3 yd 45 in FOLD FOLD 2.7 m 2.7 m 23 8 60 in, sizes 2-10 60 in, sizes 12-20 21/8 yd 23/8 yd 24 60 in 1.9 m 2.2 m FOLD 60 in, sizes 2-20 Peplum Facing and Interfacing 6 7 24 (32) Sizes 2–20 32 23 8 24 45 in, 1 yd 60 in .9 m FOLD 45 in, sizes 2-20 FOLD 14 | THE PRINCESS COAT INSTRUCTIONS THE PRINCESS COAT INSTRUCTIONS | 15 A GUIDE TO FITTING Pattern cup sizes can be (and often are) different from bra cup sizes: The cup sizes included with this pattern indicate the Here are my top tips for choosing a size and diagnosing fit issues relationship between your upper bust measurement and your full bust specifically for the Princess Coat pattern. measurement. Measure your upper bust and full bust as indicated above to find your cup size on the chart. Don’t worry if it’s not the CHOOSING A SIZE same cup size you wear in bras. Bra cup sizes are measured by the First, understand ease: The Size Chart on the envelope corresponds relationship between the band (underbust) and the full bust, so they to your body measurements. The Finished Measurements Chart (next can be slightly different than garment cup sizes. When sewing, it’s page) corresponds to the garment measurements. The size chart tells always better to go by your measurements than to pick a size based on you your recommended size based on your measurements, but the something you’ve bought in a store.
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