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Troop Life, Into the the Municipal Building Will Be Ac- Annual Benefit Bridge and Fashion Out-Of-Doors This Summer
THE WESTFIELD LEADER THE LEADING AND MOST WIDELY CIRCULATED WEEKLY NEWSPAPER IN UNION COUNTY Y-FIFTH YEAR—No. 39 Published WESTFIELD, NEW JERSEY, THURSDAY, JUNE 9, 1955 Bverjr Thurnda.7 36 Page*—* Caat* iccalaureate Service In Girl Scouts Plan Nation-wide Air •esbyterian Church Summer Outdoor Raid Alert Set Anti-Polio Shots Camping Activities For Wednesday High School Senior Auxiliary Gives To Begin Tuesday f 3,500 to C. C. Home Three Day Camps Citizens Asked To ss of 1955 Scheduled: Season Take Shelter Until A donation of $3,500 to the Chil- Opens June 20 All Clear Siren Vaccine Arrives dren's Country Home, Mountain- ethodist Minister side, was made by the Senior Aux- Westfield Local Council Girl A nation-wide Civil Defense ex- From Eli Lilly o Give Address iliary to the home at a luncheon Scouts are making plans for camp- ercise will take place between meeting Tuesday at the Echo Lake ing activities which will enable noon, June 15 and 1 p.m. June 16. Country Club. The contribution Girl Scouts to carry scouting, as Westfield's staff headquarters in annual baccalaureate ser- represented the proceeds from the May Be Too late or the graduating class of practiced in troop life, into the the Municipal Building will be ac- annual benefit bridge and fashion out-of-doors this summer. Mrs. J. tivated in a support role between For Two Injection* • eld Senior High School will show held recently under the chair- i in the Presbyterian Church T. McAllister, executive director 6 p.m. and 11 p.m. -
16 Textiles in Defence* Richard a Scott Defence Clothing and Textiles Agency, Science and Technology Division, Flagstaff Road, Colchester, Essex CO2 7SS, UK
16 Textiles in defence* Richard A Scott Defence Clothing and Textiles Agency, Science and Technology Division, Flagstaff Road, Colchester, Essex CO2 7SS, UK 16.1 Introduction To be prepared for War is one of the most effectual means of preserving Peace (George Washington, 1790)1 Defence forces on land, sea, or air throughout the world are heavily reliant on tech- nical textiles of all types – whether woven, knitted, nonwoven, coated, laminated, or other composite forms. Technical textiles offer invaluable properties for military land forces in particular, who are required to move, live, survive and fight in hostile environments. They have to carry or wear all the necessities for comfort and sur- vival and thus need the most lightweight, compact, durable, and high performance personal clothing and equipment. The life-critical requirements for protecting indi- viduals from both environmental and battlefield threats have ensured that the major nations of the world expend significant resources in developing and providing the most advanced technical textiles for military use. 16.2 Historical background Military textile science is not new, and one of the earliest documented studies can probably be credited to Count Rumford, or Benjamin Thompson. Rumford was an American army colonel and scientist who issued a paper in 1792 entitled ‘Philo- sophical Transactions’, which reported on the importance of internally trapped air in a range of textile fabrics to the thermal insulation provided by those fabrics.2 He was awarded the Copley Medal for his paper, as the significance of his discovery was recognised immediately. * Copyright MOD (1997) DCTA, Colchester, Essex CO2 7SS 426 Handbook of technical textiles 16.2.1 Pre-Twentieth century Up until the end of the 19th century military land battles were fought at close quar- ters by individual engagements. -
Glossary of Sewing Terms
Glossary of Sewing Terms Judith Christensen Professional Patternmaker ClothingPatterns101 Why Do You Need to Know Sewing Terms? There are quite a few sewing terms that you’ll need to know to be able to properly follow pattern instructions. If you’ve been sewing for a long time, you’ll probably know many of these terms – or at least, you know the technique, but might not know what it’s called. You’ll run across terms like “shirring”, “ease”, and “blousing”, and will need to be able to identify center front and the right side of the fabric. This brief glossary of sewing terms is designed to help you navigate your pattern, whether it’s one you purchased at a fabric store or downloaded from an online designer. You’ll find links within the glossary to “how-to” videos or more information at ClothingPatterns101.com Don’t worry – there’s no homework and no test! Just keep this glossary handy for reference when you need it! 2 A – Appliqué – A method of surface decoration made by cutting a decorative shape from fabric and stitching it to the surface of the piece being decorated. The stitching can be by hand (blanket stitch) or machine (zigzag or a decorative stitch). Armhole – The portion of the garment through which the arm extends, or a sleeve is sewn. Armholes come in many shapes and configurations, and can be an interesting part of a design. B - Backtack or backstitch – Stitches used at the beginning and end of a seam to secure the threads. To backstitch, stitch 2 or 3 stitches forward, then 2 or 3 stitches in reverse; then proceed to stitch the seam and repeat the backstitch at the end of the seam. -
Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018
The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 Front Cover Image: Textile Detail of an Evening Dress, circa 1950s, Maker Unknown, Middlesex University Fashion Collection, London, England, F2021AB. The Middlesex University Fashion Collection comprises approximately 450 garments for women and men, textiles, accessories including hats, shoes, gloves, and more, plus hundreds of haberdashery items including buttons and trimmings, from the nineteenth century to the present day. Browse the Middlesex University Fashion Collection at https://tinyurl.com/middlesex-fashion. The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 Editor–in–Chief Jennifer Daley Editor Scott Hughes Myerly Proofreader Georgina Chappell Published by The Association of Dress Historians [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org Copyright © 2018 The Association of Dress Historians ISSN 2515–0995 Online Computer Library Centre (OCLC) accession #988749854 The Journal of Dress History is the academic publication of The Association of Dress Historians through which scholars can articulate original research in a constructive, interdisciplinary, and peer reviewed environment. The Association of Dress Historians supports and promotes the advancement of public knowledge and education in the history of dress and textiles. The Association of Dress Historians (ADH) is Registered Charity #1014876 of The Charity Commission for England and Wales. The Journal of Dress History is copyrighted by the publisher, The Association of Dress Historians, while each published author within the journal holds the copyright to their individual article. The Journal of Dress History is circulated solely for educational purposes, completely free of charge, and not for sale or profit. -
Cloth, Fashion and Revolution 'Evocative' Garments and a Merchant's Know-How: Madame Teillard, Dressmaker at the Palais-Ro
CLOTH, FASHION AND REVOLUTION ‘EVOCATIVE’ GARMENTS AND A MERCHANT’S KNOW-HOW: MADAME TEILLARD, DRESSMAKER AT THE PALAIS-ROYAL By Professor Natacha Coquery, University of Lyon 2 (France) Revolutionary upheavals have substantial repercussions on the luxury goods sector. This is because the luxury goods market is ever-changing, highly competitive, and a source of considerable profits. Yet it is also fragile, given its close ties to fashion, to the imperative for novelty and the short-lived, and to objects or materials that act as social markers, intended for consumers from elite circles. However, this very fragility, related to fashion’s fleeting nature, can also be a strength. When we speak of fashion, we speak of inventiveness and constant innovation in materials, shapes, and colours. Thus, fashion merchants become experts in the fleeting and the novel. In his Dictionnaire universel de commerce [Universal Dictionary of Trade and Commerce], Savary des Bruslons assimilates ‘novelty’ and ‘fabrics’ with ‘fashion’: [Fashion] […] It is commonly said of new fabrics that delight with their colour, design or fabrication, [that they] are eagerly sought after at first, but soon give way in turn to other fabrics that have the charm of novelty.1 In the clothing trade, which best embodies fashion, talented merchants are those that successfully start new fashions and react most rapidly to new trends, which are sometimes triggered by political events. In 1763, the year in which the Treaty of Paris was signed to end the Seven Years’ War, the haberdasher Déton of Rue Saint-Honoré, Paris, ‘in whose shop one finds all fashionable merchandise, invented preliminary hats, decorated on the front in the French style, and on the back in the English manner.’2 The haberdasher made a clear and clever allusion to the preliminary treaty, signed a year earlier. -
I Was Tempted by a Pretty Coloured Muslin
“I was tempted by a pretty y y coloured muslin”: Jane Austen and the Art of Being Fashionable MARY HAFNER-LANEY Mary Hafner-Laney is an historic costumer. Using her thirty-plus years of trial-and-error experience, she has given presentations and workshops on how women of the past dressed to historical societies, literary groups, and costuming and re-enactment organizations. She is retired from the State of Washington . E E plucked that first leaf o ff the fig tree in the Garden of Eden and decided green was her color, women of all times and all places have been interested in fashion and in being fashionable. Jane Austen herself wrote , “I beleive Finery must have it” (23 September 1813) , and in Northanger Abbey we read that Mrs. Allen cannot begin to enjoy the delights of Bath until she “was provided with a dress of the newest fashion” (20). Whether a woman was like Jane and “so tired & ashamed of half my present stock that I even blush at the sight of the wardrobe which contains them ” (25 December 1798) or like the two Miss Beauforts in Sanditon , who required “six new Dresses each for a three days visit” (Minor Works 421), dress was a problem to be solved. There were no big-name designers with models to show o ff their creations. There was no Project Runway . There were no department stores or clothing empori - ums where one could browse for and purchase garments of the latest fashion. How did a woman achieve a stylish appearance? Just as we have Vogue , Elle and In Style magazines to keep us up to date on the most current styles, women of the Regency era had The Ladies Magazine , La Belle Assemblée , Le Beau Monde , The Gallery of Fashion , and a host of other publications (Decker) . -
LOOKING for a NEW SEWING PROJECT? You Can Find What You Want in “Inspiration”, Our Sewing Magazine
BERNINA 475 QE LOOKING FOR A NEW SEWING PROJECT? You can find what you want in “inspiration”, our sewing magazine. Thanks to great sewing patterns and detailed sewing instructions, every project succeeds right away. Inspiration magazine is available in German, English, French and Dutch * Not available in all countries. Welcome Dear BERNINA customer Congratulations! You have decided on BERNINA and therefore on a product which will delight you for years. For more than 100 years our family company has attached greatest importance to satisfied customers. As for me, it is a matter of personal concern to offer you Swiss development and precision at the height of perfection, future-orientated sewing technology and a comprehensive customer service. The BERNINA 4-series consists of several ultramodern machines, whose development not only focused the highest demands on technique and the ease of use but also considered the design of the product. After all we sell our products to creative people like you, who do not only appreciate high quality but also form and design. Enjoy the creative sewing on your new BERNINA 475 QE and keep informed about the various accessories at www.bernina.com. On our homepage you will also find a lot of inspiring sewing instructions, to be downloaded for free. Our highly trained BERNINA dealers will provide you with more information on service and maintenance offers. I wish you lots of pleasure and many creative hours with your new BERNINA. H.P. Ueltschi Owner BERNINA International AG CH-8266 Steckborn 3 Edition notice Edition notice Graphics www.sculpt.ch Text, Setting and Layout BERNINA International AG Photos Patrice Heilmann, Winterthur Part number 2018/02 en 1031755.0.04 1st Edition Copyright 2018 BERNINA International AG All rights reserved: For technical reasons and for the purpose of product improvements, changes concerning the features of the machine can be made at any time and without advance notice. -
About Pins Guide Reformatted Layout 1 2/17/12 11:34 AM Page 1
023-507P8 All about Pins Guide reformatted_Layout 1 2/17/12 11:34 AM Page 1 SELECTING THE PROPER STRAIGHT PIN Select pins according to the type of pin, length of pin, type of pin head, type of metal from which it is made & project for which it will be used. Applique STRAIGHT PINS Applique Short length helps position and hold appliques during hand sewing Ball Point BAll point Rounded tip is specially designed for knits and lingerie fabrics Beading e d long BAll point i Long pin for use on medium-weight knit fabrics u g s BeAding Bridal and Lace n Large head is ideal for lace, open-weave fabrics and beading crafts i p t BridAl And lAce u Extra-fine pin for use on delicate or lightweight fabrics and lace o b Color Ball color BAll a l General purpose sewing pin for medium-weight fabrics l a extrA-long color BAll Extra-long for lofty fabrics, quilt basting & home decor sewing Craft crAft Extra-long pin for heavyweight fabrics, home decor projects and crafts dressmAker Dressmaker General purpose sewing pin suitable for medium-weight fabrics flAt flower or flAt Button Extra-long, fine pin with flat head for lace, eyelet, loose weaves, lofty Flat Flower fabrics and home decor more projects, tips & techniques at Joann.com ® free Flat Button 023-507P8 All about Pins Guide reformatted_Layout 1 2/17/12 11:34 AM Page 3 glAss HeAd SPECIALTY PINS T-Pin A general purpose pin with a heat-resistant glass head used for medium- corsAge & Boutonniere weight fabrics Black and white, pearlized head used for pinning corsage or flower onto Glass Head garment for -
The American Lady-Tailor Glove-Fitting System of Dress Making
' : - . fdfl . - . ... • • . 1 i , 1 • • • • i ft) '•-.; r i. # i ' ".. - i ! It r it ; . CvAMDkPS^ fedt Improved and Simplified. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. ®|ap. - ®W'Sl l 1« # Slielf .vGr..2? fc UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 4$ f. L Second Edition.] [Price, Five Dollars, THE AMERICAN Lady-Tailor Gloye-Fitting- System OP- DRESS-MAKING Invented and Taught by ^ • Mrs, Elizabeth Gartland IN HER SCIENTIFIC COLLEGE. KE^nSED, iLLTJSTBiLTED # SlIMIIF'IQjIIF'IEID- PHILADELPHIA, PA. 1884. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1884, by Mrs. Elizabeth in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. : IMPORTANT NOTICE. \K^ To all whom it may Concern : —Only those purchasing this Book from me or my authorized agents are hereby licensed to use my Systems of Cutting and Fitting, set forth in this work, the contents of which I have secured by copyright. And no person shall have any right whatever to sell or teach in any manner, my system, without first procuring from me or my duly authorized agents a license in writing, signed by me, specifying how and in what way it may be used. MRS. E. GARTLAND, 15 SOUTH 13th STREET, PHILADELPHIA, PA. LEADING PARIS FASHION MAGAZINES And they can be had at any time by the single number or by subscrip- tion; post-paid, at the prices given in the following list One Six Three Single Year. Months. Months. Copy. *Aquarelle Mode Weekly 9 16 20 9 9 00 $ 5 00 45c. *Album de la Toilette Semi-Monthly.. 7 25 4 00 2 25 45c. *Coquet Semi-Monthly. -
Analysis of Dress Pattern of Body Fitting Without Waist Dart on Chiffon Fabrics
Advances in Social Science, Education and Humanities Research, volume 242 2nd International Conference on Vocational Education and Training (ICOVET 2018) Analysis of Dress Pattern of Body Fitting Without Waist Dart on Chiffon Fabrics Idah Hadijah1) Endang Prahastuti2) Fashion Technology Department Fashion Technology Department Universitas Negeri Malang Universitas Negeri Malang Anik Dwi Astuti3) Fashion Technology Department Universitas Negeri Malang Abstract— The type of research used is descriptive by using position of the shoulder line that tends to backward qualitative approach with observation technique, interview, through the base of the arm, and the position of the front and documentation method. Objects in this study were the neckline is loose and bumpy". forms of dresses. They consisted of 3 models, each model Similarly, the results of research Prahastuti (2012: 28) consisted of 8 dresses. The total objects were 24 dresses. concluded, there is a difference position of the fitting The results of the study of Dress Model I, II, and III, viewed from: (1) the position of the dress fitting factor, not fit on the point basic pattern women's clothing chartmant system on waist line, neck size, and armscye ; (2) using the waist dart at various body shapes of women. Fayoomy (2014) : “that, the front; and (3) in terms of the position of wise grain in reality there is no such thing as standard or perfect chiffon fabric, used length wise grain. Position of the wise figure, the formulas for constructing basic flat pattern has grain of the chiffon fabric from the waistline until the lower designed and developed for the standard figure”. -
PANTS for WOMEN==Fas[1Ion and Fit
n PANTS FOR WOMEN==Fas[1ion and Fit Cooperative Extension Service Oregon State University Corvallis Extension Circular 742 October 1969 CONTENTS Pattern "Selection 3 Fabric Selection 3 Accurate Measurements 3 Pattern Preparation 3 Designing Your Own Pants 5 Pattern Layout and Cutting 6 Marking i . 6 Preparing for the First Fitting 6 Fitting 6 Common Fitting Problems 7 Posture and Figure Variations 8 Pants for Bowlegs 9 Stitching 10 Making Free-Hanging Linings 10 Preparing Waistbands 10 Applying Waistbands 12 Making Hems 12 Fants for Vv omen=-IT ash ion and Jrit ELAINE K. CARLSON Extension Clothing Specialist, Oregon State University Pants have become an important part of the modern wardrobe and may be worn for nearly every occasion. Even though the names and styles of pant-type garments change with fashion, the need for a good fit is always the same. The directions in this circular are for making pants with side seams, zipper placket, applied waistband, and a lining (optional). PATTERN SELECTION marked to indicate center front, center back, and both side seams. Use a three-inch strip of firmly woven fab- The pattern size is determined by the hip size, taken ric, folded in thirds to make a one-inch strip. Edge eight to nine inches below the waistline. This keeps pat- stitch both edges. Use different colored threads to indi- tern alterations to a minimum. Choose a pattern with a cate center markings and side markings. full-length leg, even though you plan to make shorter Record your measurements in the first column of the pants. -
BERNINA Virtuosa 150 / 160 Manual
BERNIN¡[ lnstruction Manual & Sewing Manual -:f=f olo c"" f- al q: ta vtrl!,osa r50 CLC te! BEBNII{II o\c e1c 1 tr!Lt6 .l 9(.{È #,t ,' o':: o't' a": : ¡'i, ¿'il O''_ a'i c,"I ryi'l c"ü€" 1 ,r=-l . .,8 "0., " "o t T ''1,:: t{Ë -{=f o\c !* a* vtrtuoså 160 o Lo Gttu'ltt ACßNINA ¡c o o sõ'a- rr' rt a i.o :â¡ o o\ a', a i o:i o'l o a'il s"[ c"i s'{ 6"1 6rf 'll ',I $ ',t \¡ tø'ø..3"ø*, ry'øm a, %'{* ,øør%mryruøz 'øryrfu QUILTER'S BERNIN¡f EDITION BERNIN'f Made in Switzerland Made ¡n Sw¡tzerland Safegr instructíons 'ì I IVH PORTANT SAFETY I I\¡ STRI,J CTilON I 5 When using an electrical machine, basic safety 8. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. lt may ì precautions should always be followed, including the deflect the needle causing it to break. f ollowing. 9. Turn power switch to <0> when making any adjust- Read all instructions before using this sewing machine. ments in the needle area, such as threading or chang- ing the needle, threading the bobbin or changing When the machine is not in use, it should be disconnected the presser foot. from the electricity supply by removing the plug from the outlet. 10. Always unplug the sewing machine from the electri- cal outlet when removing covers, lubricating or when making any other user servicing adjustments men- ÐANGEM tioned in this instruction manual.