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Cloth, Fashion and Revolution 'Evocative' Garments and a Merchant's Know-How: Madame Teillard, Dressmaker at the Palais-Ro
CLOTH, FASHION AND REVOLUTION ‘EVOCATIVE’ GARMENTS AND A MERCHANT’S KNOW-HOW: MADAME TEILLARD, DRESSMAKER AT THE PALAIS-ROYAL By Professor Natacha Coquery, University of Lyon 2 (France) Revolutionary upheavals have substantial repercussions on the luxury goods sector. This is because the luxury goods market is ever-changing, highly competitive, and a source of considerable profits. Yet it is also fragile, given its close ties to fashion, to the imperative for novelty and the short-lived, and to objects or materials that act as social markers, intended for consumers from elite circles. However, this very fragility, related to fashion’s fleeting nature, can also be a strength. When we speak of fashion, we speak of inventiveness and constant innovation in materials, shapes, and colours. Thus, fashion merchants become experts in the fleeting and the novel. In his Dictionnaire universel de commerce [Universal Dictionary of Trade and Commerce], Savary des Bruslons assimilates ‘novelty’ and ‘fabrics’ with ‘fashion’: [Fashion] […] It is commonly said of new fabrics that delight with their colour, design or fabrication, [that they] are eagerly sought after at first, but soon give way in turn to other fabrics that have the charm of novelty.1 In the clothing trade, which best embodies fashion, talented merchants are those that successfully start new fashions and react most rapidly to new trends, which are sometimes triggered by political events. In 1763, the year in which the Treaty of Paris was signed to end the Seven Years’ War, the haberdasher Déton of Rue Saint-Honoré, Paris, ‘in whose shop one finds all fashionable merchandise, invented preliminary hats, decorated on the front in the French style, and on the back in the English manner.’2 The haberdasher made a clear and clever allusion to the preliminary treaty, signed a year earlier. -
Gillian Welch's Long-Awaited New Album
FREE JULY 2011 Readings Monthly • • • Peter Salmon Ann Patchett Alan Hollinghurst Robert Hughes (SEE P18) THE HARROW AND HARVEST IMAGE FROM GILLIAN WELCH'S NEW ALBUM Gillian Welch’s long-awaited new album p 17 Highlights of July book, CD & DVD new releases. More inside. NON-FICTION AUS FICTION FICTION FICTION YA DVD POP CD CLASSICAL $50 $39.95 $29.99 $24.95 $30 $24.95 $33 $27.95 $19.95 $24.95 $25.95 $21.95 $24.95 >> p19 >> p5 >> p6 >> p7 >> p8 >> p14 >> p16 (for July) >> p17 July event highlights : Matthew Evans on Winter on the Farm. James Boyce at Readings Carlton, Favel Parrett, Rosalie Ham. See more events inside. All shops open 7 days, except State Library shop, which is open Monday - Saturday. Carlton 309 Lygon St 9347 6633 Hawthorn 701 Glenferrie Rd 9819 1917 Malvern 185 Glenferrie Rd 9509 1952 Port Melbourne 253 Bay St 9681 9255 St Kilda 112 Acland St 9525 3852 Readings at the State Library of Victoria 328 Swanston St 8664 7540 email us at [email protected] Browse and buy online at www.readings.com.au and at ebooks.readings.com.au travel card travel card Instant WIN a $10,000 4000 1234 5678 9010 4000 5678 9010 4000 1234 4000 GOOD THRU 00/00 GOOD THRU 00/00 ANZ Travel Card It’s money made to travel Purchase any Lonely Planet product with a promotional sticker from 9am 04/06/11 until ANZ Travel Card ANZ Travel Cards 5pm 31/07/11 and visit lonelyplanet.com/anztravelcard to be in the running to win.. -
I Was Tempted by a Pretty Coloured Muslin
“I was tempted by a pretty y y coloured muslin”: Jane Austen and the Art of Being Fashionable MARY HAFNER-LANEY Mary Hafner-Laney is an historic costumer. Using her thirty-plus years of trial-and-error experience, she has given presentations and workshops on how women of the past dressed to historical societies, literary groups, and costuming and re-enactment organizations. She is retired from the State of Washington . E E plucked that first leaf o ff the fig tree in the Garden of Eden and decided green was her color, women of all times and all places have been interested in fashion and in being fashionable. Jane Austen herself wrote , “I beleive Finery must have it” (23 September 1813) , and in Northanger Abbey we read that Mrs. Allen cannot begin to enjoy the delights of Bath until she “was provided with a dress of the newest fashion” (20). Whether a woman was like Jane and “so tired & ashamed of half my present stock that I even blush at the sight of the wardrobe which contains them ” (25 December 1798) or like the two Miss Beauforts in Sanditon , who required “six new Dresses each for a three days visit” (Minor Works 421), dress was a problem to be solved. There were no big-name designers with models to show o ff their creations. There was no Project Runway . There were no department stores or clothing empori - ums where one could browse for and purchase garments of the latest fashion. How did a woman achieve a stylish appearance? Just as we have Vogue , Elle and In Style magazines to keep us up to date on the most current styles, women of the Regency era had The Ladies Magazine , La Belle Assemblée , Le Beau Monde , The Gallery of Fashion , and a host of other publications (Decker) . -
About Pins Guide Reformatted Layout 1 2/17/12 11:34 AM Page 1
023-507P8 All about Pins Guide reformatted_Layout 1 2/17/12 11:34 AM Page 1 SELECTING THE PROPER STRAIGHT PIN Select pins according to the type of pin, length of pin, type of pin head, type of metal from which it is made & project for which it will be used. Applique STRAIGHT PINS Applique Short length helps position and hold appliques during hand sewing Ball Point BAll point Rounded tip is specially designed for knits and lingerie fabrics Beading e d long BAll point i Long pin for use on medium-weight knit fabrics u g s BeAding Bridal and Lace n Large head is ideal for lace, open-weave fabrics and beading crafts i p t BridAl And lAce u Extra-fine pin for use on delicate or lightweight fabrics and lace o b Color Ball color BAll a l General purpose sewing pin for medium-weight fabrics l a extrA-long color BAll Extra-long for lofty fabrics, quilt basting & home decor sewing Craft crAft Extra-long pin for heavyweight fabrics, home decor projects and crafts dressmAker Dressmaker General purpose sewing pin suitable for medium-weight fabrics flAt flower or flAt Button Extra-long, fine pin with flat head for lace, eyelet, loose weaves, lofty Flat Flower fabrics and home decor more projects, tips & techniques at Joann.com ® free Flat Button 023-507P8 All about Pins Guide reformatted_Layout 1 2/17/12 11:34 AM Page 3 glAss HeAd SPECIALTY PINS T-Pin A general purpose pin with a heat-resistant glass head used for medium- corsAge & Boutonniere weight fabrics Black and white, pearlized head used for pinning corsage or flower onto Glass Head garment for -
The American Lady-Tailor Glove-Fitting System of Dress Making
' : - . fdfl . - . ... • • . 1 i , 1 • • • • i ft) '•-.; r i. # i ' ".. - i ! It r it ; . CvAMDkPS^ fedt Improved and Simplified. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. ®|ap. - ®W'Sl l 1« # Slielf .vGr..2? fc UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 4$ f. L Second Edition.] [Price, Five Dollars, THE AMERICAN Lady-Tailor Gloye-Fitting- System OP- DRESS-MAKING Invented and Taught by ^ • Mrs, Elizabeth Gartland IN HER SCIENTIFIC COLLEGE. KE^nSED, iLLTJSTBiLTED # SlIMIIF'IQjIIF'IEID- PHILADELPHIA, PA. 1884. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1884, by Mrs. Elizabeth in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. : IMPORTANT NOTICE. \K^ To all whom it may Concern : —Only those purchasing this Book from me or my authorized agents are hereby licensed to use my Systems of Cutting and Fitting, set forth in this work, the contents of which I have secured by copyright. And no person shall have any right whatever to sell or teach in any manner, my system, without first procuring from me or my duly authorized agents a license in writing, signed by me, specifying how and in what way it may be used. MRS. E. GARTLAND, 15 SOUTH 13th STREET, PHILADELPHIA, PA. LEADING PARIS FASHION MAGAZINES And they can be had at any time by the single number or by subscrip- tion; post-paid, at the prices given in the following list One Six Three Single Year. Months. Months. Copy. *Aquarelle Mode Weekly 9 16 20 9 9 00 $ 5 00 45c. *Album de la Toilette Semi-Monthly.. 7 25 4 00 2 25 45c. *Coquet Semi-Monthly. -
BAM Presents the Sydney Theatre Company Production of Tennessee Williams’ a Streetcar Named Desire, Nov 27–Dec 20
BAM presents the Sydney Theatre Company production of Tennessee Williams’ A Streetcar Named Desire, Nov 27–Dec 20 Production marks U.S. directorial debut of Liv Ullmann and features Cate Blanchett as Blanche DuBois, Joel Edgerton as Stanley, and Robin McLeavey as Stella The Wall Street Journal is the Presenting Sponsor of A Streetcar Named Desire A Streetcar Named Desire By Tennessee Williams Sydney Theatre Company Directed by Liv Ullmann Set design by Ralph Myers Costume design by Tess Schofield Lighting design by Nick Schlieper Sound design by Paul Charlier BAM Harvey Theater (651 Fulton St) Nov 27 and 28, Dec 1*, 2, 3**, 4, 5, 8–12, 15–19 at 7:30pm Nov 28, Dec 2, 5, 9, 12, 16, and 19 at 2pm Nov 29, Dec 6, 13, and 20 at 3pm Tickets: $30, 65, 95 (Tues–Thurs); $40, 80, 120 (Fri–Sun) 718.636.4100 or BAM.org *press opening **A Streetcar Named Desire: Belle Rêve Gala (performance begins at 8pm) Artist Talk with Liv Ullmann: Between Screen and Stage Moderated by Phillip Lopate, writer and professor at Columbia University. Dec 7 at 7pm BAM Harvey Theater Tickets: $15 ($7.50 for Friends of BAM) Artist Talk with cast members Moderated by Lynn Hirschberg, The New York Times Magazine editor-at-large Dec 8, post-show (free for same-day ticket holders) Brooklyn, N.Y./Oct 23, 2009—In a special winter presentation, Sydney Theatre Company returns to BAM with Tennessee Williams’ A Streetcar Named Desire, directed by renowned actor/director/writer Liv Ullmann and featuring Academy Award-winning actress/Sydney Theatre Company Co-Artistic Director Cate Blanchett as Blanche DuBois, Joel Edgerton at Stanley Kowalski, Robin McLeavey as Stella Kowalski, and Tim Richards as Mitch. -
Analysis of Dress Pattern of Body Fitting Without Waist Dart on Chiffon Fabrics
Advances in Social Science, Education and Humanities Research, volume 242 2nd International Conference on Vocational Education and Training (ICOVET 2018) Analysis of Dress Pattern of Body Fitting Without Waist Dart on Chiffon Fabrics Idah Hadijah1) Endang Prahastuti2) Fashion Technology Department Fashion Technology Department Universitas Negeri Malang Universitas Negeri Malang Anik Dwi Astuti3) Fashion Technology Department Universitas Negeri Malang Abstract— The type of research used is descriptive by using position of the shoulder line that tends to backward qualitative approach with observation technique, interview, through the base of the arm, and the position of the front and documentation method. Objects in this study were the neckline is loose and bumpy". forms of dresses. They consisted of 3 models, each model Similarly, the results of research Prahastuti (2012: 28) consisted of 8 dresses. The total objects were 24 dresses. concluded, there is a difference position of the fitting The results of the study of Dress Model I, II, and III, viewed from: (1) the position of the dress fitting factor, not fit on the point basic pattern women's clothing chartmant system on waist line, neck size, and armscye ; (2) using the waist dart at various body shapes of women. Fayoomy (2014) : “that, the front; and (3) in terms of the position of wise grain in reality there is no such thing as standard or perfect chiffon fabric, used length wise grain. Position of the wise figure, the formulas for constructing basic flat pattern has grain of the chiffon fabric from the waistline until the lower designed and developed for the standard figure”. -
WRITERS, Contemplating the Atlas, and That Makes One Beechworth Treescape Group Want to Travel
Sponsors WELCOME TO THE Indigo Shire Council, WAW Credit Union, George Kerferd Hotel, Pennyweight Winery, WAY OF THE WORLD State Library of Victoria, In 1953 a young writer named Nicolas Bouvier University of Melbourne School of Culture set out from Geneva in a Fiat Topolino to and Communication meet his friend, artist Thierry Vernet, in Belgrade. Without much money the pair Acknowledgements 2017 was to journey for the next nineteen months Australia Post Beechworth and Wendy Christian through Yugoslavia, Greece, Turkey, Iran and Beechworth Arts Council volunteers Afghanistan to the Khyber Pass. Beechworth Books and Diane Ingwersen ‘From aged ten to thirteen,’ Bouvier wrote, Beechworth Montessori School ‘I had stretched out on the rug, silently Beechworth Secondary College WRITERS, contemplating the atlas, and that makes one Beechworth Treescape Group want to travel. I had dreamed of regions such Chris Nuck and George Kerferd Hotel staff as the Banat, the Caspian, Kashmir, of their Eddie Paterson READERS music, of the glances one might meet there, of Estelle Paterson and POETS’ the ideas that lay in waiting… Indigo Libraries and Astrid Kriening Indigo Mayor Jenny O’Connor ‘We really don’t know what to call this inner WEEKEND Quercus Beechworth compulsion. Something grows…so that the Wooragee Primary School day comes when, none too sure of ourselves, we nevertheless leave for good. Travelling outgrows its motives. It soon proves sufficient WRAP17 planning group Fri 10 - Sun 12 in itself. You think you are making a trip, but Michael Bink, Jude Doughty, Olga Evans, February 2017 soon it is making you – or unmaking you.’ Inga Hanover, Jamie Kronborg, Helen McIntyre, Helen Murray, Lesley Milne, Annie Nichols Such is The way of the world – the title of the and Daren John Pope masterpiece that Bouvier later wrote of the experience he shared with Vernet. -
Emmy Nominations
69th Emmy Awards Nominations Announcements July 13, 2017 (A complete list of nominations, supplemental facts and figures may be found at Emmys.com) Emmy Noms to date Previous Wins to Category Nominee Program Network 69th Emmy Noms Total (across all date (across all categories) categories) LEAD ACTRESS IN A DRAMA SERIES Viola Davis How To Get Away With Murder ABC 1 3 1 Claire Foy The Crown Netflix 1 1 NA Elisabeth Moss The Handmaid's Tale Hulu 1 8 0 Keri Russell The Americans FX Networks 1 2 0 Evan Rachel Wood Westworld HBO 1 2 0 Robin Wright House Of Cards Netflix 1 6 0 LEAD ACTOR IN A DRAMA SERIES Sterling K. Brown This Is Us NBC 1 2 1 Anthony Hopkins Westworld HBO 1 5 2 Bob Odenkirk Better Call Saul AMC 1 11 2 Matthew Rhys The Americans FX Networks 2* 3 0 Liev Schreiber Ray Donovan Showtime 3* 6 0 Kevin Spacey House Of Cards Netflix 1 11 0 Milo Ventimiglia This Is Us NBC 1 1 NA * NOTE: Matthew Rhys is also nominated for Guest Actor In A Comedy Series for Girls * NOTE: Liev Schreiber also nominamted twice as Narrator for Muhammad Ali: Only One and Uconn: The March To Madness LEAD ACTRESS IN A LIMITED SERIES OR A MOVIE Carrie Coon Fargo FX Networks 1 1 NA Felicity Huffman American Crime ABC 1 5 1 Nicole Kidman Big Little Lies HBO 1 2 0 Jessica Lange FEUD: Bette And Joan FX Networks 1 8 3 Susan Sarandon FEUD: Bette And Joan FX Networks 1 5 0 Reese Witherspoon Big Little Lies HBO 1 1 NA LEAD ACTOR IN A LIMITED SERIES OR A MOVIE Riz Ahmed The Night Of HBO 2* 2 NA Benedict Cumberbatch Sherlock: The Lying Detective (Masterpiece) PBS 1 5 1 -
The Fisher King
Movies & Languages 2016-2017 The Dressmaker About the movie (subtitled version) DIRECTOR Jocelyn Moorhouse YEAR / COUNTRY 2015 / Australia GENRE Comedy / Drama ACTORS Kate Winslet, Judy Davis, Liam Hemsworth, Hugo Weaving PLOT After many years spent mastering the art of dressmaking at couture houses in Paris,Tilly Dunnage returns home in the tiny middle-of-nowhere town of Dungatar where she was banished from as a child after a tragic event. She plans to check on her ailing and mentally unstable mother and then leave. But Tilly decides to remain in order to reconnect with her mother and unravel the mystery of why she was banished and why she feels “cursed”... an obsession with the past that needs to be exorcised. However, though regarded as an outcast and even a “murderess” by the town gossips, Tilly's exquisite fashion dresses prove irresistible to the town's drab womenfolk. But as her dresses begin to arouse competition and envy in town, causing resentments to surface, it becomes clear that Tilly's mind is set on a darker design: exacting revenge on those who wronged her, in the most spectacular fashion! LANGUAGE English (Australian accent). GRAMMAR WISHES A WISH states the opposite of reality. Therefore, use the same verb forms after the verb WISH as you use after clauses for unreal conditions. REAL SITUATION WISH Present Time I'm taking five courses. I wish (that) I weren't taking so many courses. I can't concentrate today! I wish (that) I could concentrate today! I have to write a paper. I wish (that) I didn't have to write a paper. -
Sagawkit Acceptancespeechtran
Screen Actors Guild Awards Acceptance Speech Transcripts TABLE OF CONTENTS INAUGURAL SCREEN ACTORS GUILD AWARDS ...........................................................................................2 2ND ANNUAL SCREEN ACTORS GUILD AWARDS .........................................................................................6 3RD ANNUAL SCREEN ACTORS GUILD AWARDS ...................................................................................... 11 4TH ANNUAL SCREEN ACTORS GUILD AWARDS ....................................................................................... 15 5TH ANNUAL SCREEN ACTORS GUILD AWARDS ....................................................................................... 20 6TH ANNUAL SCREEN ACTORS GUILD AWARDS ....................................................................................... 24 7TH ANNUAL SCREEN ACTORS GUILD AWARDS ....................................................................................... 28 8TH ANNUAL SCREEN ACTORS GUILD AWARDS ....................................................................................... 32 9TH ANNUAL SCREEN ACTORS GUILD AWARDS ....................................................................................... 36 10TH ANNUAL SCREEN ACTORS GUILD AWARDS ..................................................................................... 42 11TH ANNUAL SCREEN ACTORS GUILD AWARDS ..................................................................................... 48 12TH ANNUAL SCREEN ACTORS GUILD AWARDS .................................................................................... -
By DAVID LESER Two Years After Heath Ledger Scandalised Sections
By DAVID LESER Two years after Heath Ledger scandalised sections of middle America with his near- miraculous performance as a gay cowboy, he would light up the screen with another tour de force, this time as the lovelorn, heroin-soaked poet, Dan, in the Australian cult movie, Candy. Little known outside Australia, this film was based on a loosely autobiographical book of the same name written by Australian author, Luke Davies. In the film Ledger somehow managed to find his way inside the twisted, twilight world of the drug addict. I pull the syringe from her arm and drop it on the table and hold my thumb down over the tiny hole I’ve made. I release the tie with my other hand. Candy looks down at her arm like a child who’s relieved that the innoculation is over. Then she says, mmmm, and her facial muscles relax and she lies back on the bed and says, that is heaps better. Heaps better. Fuck oh God. Fuck fuck fuck. This is the best. Oh God, this is awesome. This was – as the New York Times commented of Ledger’s role – acting of the first order. “Ledger looks and plays the part of the scheming user exceptionally well. He’s deep in the character’s skin right from the start.” Ledger and his co-star, Abbie Cornish – who recently appeared opposite Cate Blanchett in Elizabeth: The Golden Age - had received their tutoring from an expert, a heroin addict belonging to a Sydney group called “Proud Users.” “Abbie and Heath got lots of lessons with a prosthetic arm on how to inject,” the film’s producer, Margaret Fink told Vanity Fair.