Qass. Book. COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT / (^J HOME DRESSMAKING A Sewing Room HOME DRESSMAKING A COMPLETE GUIDE TO HOUSEHOLD SEWING BY ^ ANNIE E. MYERS Fully Illustrated with more than One Hundred Engravings "^7 y CHICAGO CHARLES H. SERGEL & COMPANY MDCCCXCII Co , .-\'^ t^> Copyright, 1892. By Charles H. Sergel & Company. f'3ff^/ PREFACE. In undertaking this work there has been a higher object than merely adding another to the long catalogue of books. My great ambition has been to help women who are trying to help themselves. As a young woman who wished to be as well dressed as my limited means allowed, I had to work out for myself the principles of planning, cutting and making my own gowns. Again, as a writer for newspapers and magazines, I had to study to formulate into words the knowledge I had gained by practical work. Many and many were the times I wished for some book to help in both my hand work and my writing. There was none in the market. To offer other women the help I vainly craved I present this book to the public. Annie E. Myers. — CONTENTS CHAPTER I TOOLS FOR THE WORK Training for Hand-sewing—The Sewing-room—Tools for Cutting —The Shears—Tools for Sewing—Tools for Fitting—Tools for Pressing. ,...'.... ii CHAPTER H dressmakers' findings Linings—Facings—Wadding and Canvas—Fastenings—Whale- bones and Casings—Shields—Yokes. .21 CHAPTER III HOW TO MAKE DRESS SKIRTS The Modern Gored Skirt—The Foundation Skirt—Skirt Drap eries—The Kilt Skirt—The Trained Skirt—Reeds. 29 CHAPTER IV HOW TO MAKE A BASQUE An Ordinary Basque—The Pattern—First Step in Making—Bast- ing the Lining—Fitting the Lining—Fitting the Basque—Cut- ing out Stripes and Plaids—Stitching Seams—Finishing Seams —Pressing Seams—Finishing Closing Edges. ... 47 CHAPTER V HOW TO MAKE A BASQUE—CONTINUED Boning a Basque—Scale for Placing the Bones—Finishing Edges —To Finish a Tailor Garment—Lead Weights. 64 CHAPTER VI SLEEVES AND COLLARS Dress Sleeves—Making a Coat Sleeve—Sewing in a Sleeve Jacket and Cloak Sleeves—Standing Collars—Turned-over Col- lars—Revers Collars—Plastrons. ..... 78 vii —— via CONTENTS CHAPTER VII JACKETS AND CLOAKS Ladies' Tailoring—Its Difi&culty—The Pattern—Sponging Cloth —Cutting Cloth—Lining a Wrap—Finishing Seams. 89 CHAPTER VIII PLAIN SEWING AND FANCY STITCHES Over-hand Sewing—Fine Stitching—Running Seams—Back- Stitching—Hemming—Hem-Stitching—Felling—French Fell — Gathering — Shirring — Overcasting — Tucking — Gussets- Patching—Sewing on Strings 96 CHAPTER IX PLAIN SEWING AND FANCY STITCHES CONTINUED Slip-Stitching—Whipping—Binding —Cording—Piping—Darning —Chain-Stitch —Cross-Stitch—Herring-Bone Stitch —Loops Button-holes —Sewing on Pearl and Similar Buttons. no CHAPTER X UNDERWEAR Materials—Cut, Fit and Making—Chemise—Drawers—Corset- Covers—Nightgowns—Petticoats — Dressing-Sacques — Wrap- pers—Aprons. .125 CHAPTER XI INFANTS' WARDROBES How to Dress Baby—A Simple Layette—How to make it —Caps and Cloaks—Nurses' Suits. ...... 140 CHAPTER XII children's CLOTHES American Mothers—Short Clothes—Small Boys' Clothes—Dress for Girls—An Apron. ........ 148 CHAPTER XIII DRESS TRIMMINGS Bias Bands—Plain Binding and French Hem -Round Piping Cord-edge—Double Cord-edge—Straps and Bands—Fur Trim- mings —Flounces—Pleating. 157 — CONTENTS ix CHAPTER XIV SPECIAL COSTUMES Riding Habits—Cycling Costumes—Bathing Suits—Dress for Business Women—Artistic and Reform Dress—To Dress for the Photographer. 167 CHAPTER XV DRESS FOR HOME AND FOREIGN TRAVEL Dress for Home Travel—Dress for Southern Travel—Dress for the far East—Dress for Ocean Travel. .... 189 CHAPTER XVI MOURNING Mourning for Widows—Mourning for a Parent, Child or Sister Children's and School-girls' Mourning—Complimentary Mourn- ing—Second Mourning—For the Neck. 200 CHAPTER XVII BRIDAL OUTFITS Seasonable Gowns—The Veil—Bridesmaids' Dresses—For Quiet Weddings—The Best Date—Brides' Traveling Dresses—The General Trousseau. ........ 206 CHAPTER XVIII FANCY AND THEATRICAL DRESSING Materials for Stage Dresses—Effect of Color—Waists and Skirts —Some Fancy Dresses, . .215 CHAPTER XIX HOW TO BE YOUR OWN MILLINER Correct Taste—To Trim a Hat—How to Make a Stiff Crowned Hat or Bonnet—Making Drawn Bonnets or Hats—Taste in Colors. .......... 227 CHAPTER XX THE DRESSMAKER AT HOME Three Methods—Preparing for the Home Dressmaker—Hints for Making Over Dresses. ....... 240 CHAPTER XXI FABRICS, LACES AND EMBROIDERIES Vel vet — Silk — Linen Cloth — Laces — Embroideries — Ostrich Feathers —Widths of Dress Fabrics. , .... 249 — X CONTENTS CHAPTER XXII THE HOUSEHOLD LINEN In what it must consist—Darning Table and Bed Linen—The Linen Closet 265 CHAPTER XXIII LAWS OF CORRECT DRESS Considered from the point of Economy—Considered from the point of Beauty—Dress for Slender Women—Dress for Stout Women—Individuality in Dress—Dress for Red Hair—Dress for Blonde Hair—Dress for Brown Hair—Dress for Black Hair —Dress for Gray Hair—Jewels—General Remarks. , 273 CHAPTER XXIV THE ETIQUETTE OF DRESS Incongruities—Correct Dress for the Morning—Correct Dress for Teas, Matinees and Afternoon Receptions—Correct Dress for Dinners—Correct Dress for Lawn Parties—Correct Dress for Driving and Coaching—Correct Dress for Weddings and Wed- ding Anniversaries—Correct Dress for Dancing Parties—Cor- rect Dress for Mourning—Correct Dress for Servants. 295 CHAPTER XXV TERMS USED IN DRESSMAKING 31O CHAPTER XXVI TO CUT A BASQUE PATTERN BY MOLDING The Front—Back and Side-Bodies—Embellishments—The Sleeve 318 CHAPTER XXVII CUTTING-OUT BY MEASUREMENT Introduction—Measurements—How to take Measures—Verifica- tion of the Measurements—Variable Measurements—Draft of Pattern of a Dress—Verification of the Patterns for a Body Pattern for Basque—Dressing Gown—Low, Round Waist Transposing Measurements—Drawers for a Woman—Drawers for a Girl—Princess Apron—Apron with Straps—Apron for a Child 325 HOME DRESSMAKING A Complete Guide to Household Sewing CHAPTER I TOOLS FOR THE WORK TRAINING FOR HAND-SEWING—THE SEWING-ROOM—TOOLS FOR CUTTING THE SHEARS—TOOLS FOR SEWING TOOLS FOR FITTING —TOOLS FOR PRESSING TRAINING FOR HAND-SEWING When a woman attempts to make a dress, we natur- ally conclude she knows how to sew. Let us hope she has practiced running up long seams, both by hand and machine, that she knows how to hem, blind-stitch, gather, fell, and, above all, to baste. Our grand- mothers served their apprenticeships piecing patch- work together. Nothing could be a better schooling. There has been much said, and with good cause, against the waste of time and talent over patchwork. A woman, skillful and intelligent, spending days and weeks over a bedquilt, is not an ennobling thought. She might do something more important, do much that would 12 TOOLS FOR THE WORK make her world wider and those around her more com- fortable, it would seem. But, for a child or young girl, there is no better training for the hand, the eye and the contriving, accurate intelligence than to neatly join pretty pieces of cloth into symmetrical designs. In later chapters will be found complete and clear explanations of plain sewing and the clever but inexpe- rienced woman will find therein many assistants to the proper and effective use of the needle. But just here we must start out with the idea that the dressmaker is capable of doing plain sewing. We would pause here, however, to comment upon the value of hand-training for woman. A skillful use of the hand is alwa5^s conducive to a well furnished and orderly mind. It calls into more perfect use the touch and the sight. It tends to make the useful also the beautiful. The prejudice against manual labor is slowl}' but surely disappearing. The little girl who is now being educated for any field of intellectual and administrative work, is not well equipped unless her hands have been trained to do dainty needlework and are skilled in other handicraft. This physical develop- ment along with the mental is according to nature's method of preserving a balance of power and a proper equilibrium between the brain and hands. THE SEWING-ROOM With the hands trained, the woman who would make dresses must furnish herself with the proper tools. To TOOLS FOR THE WORK 13 begin with, she should have a sewing-room. If, in the economy of the house, there is no room she can devote exclusively to that purpose she must have one that is given up to that occupation for the time being. It is as absolutely necessary to have such a room to do good dressmaking as it is necessary to have a kitchen to cook in, a studio to paint in, a sanctum to write in. If it is at all possible, she should close herself up in it with her tools and fabrics and forbid interruption. To do anything well, one must give one's entire atten- tion, one's whole mind, to it. This is true in dress- making as in everything else. Another reason why one should liave such a room is, that all materials and tools may be kept there together in their places and just where the hand maybe put upon them the instant they are needed. And, when such a room is devoted to that purpose, pieces of fabric may be left undis- turbed and ready for use. If they must be gathered up, they are often thrown away and are missing when they are wished for afterward. This room may be furnished as simply as can be imagined, yet it must have two chairs, an ordinary cane-bottomed square chair of medium height and a low one. We would not recommend a rocking chair to sew in, but a low rattan chair without rockers is just the thing.