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Masa Cooperative

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Masa Cooperative CONTENTS Foodways Salt Rising Bread ...................................................................................................... Sam DeGennaro Masa Cooperativa......................................................................................................7 Katherine Rapin Anadana. Anaconda. Amadama. Amadana. Amadama. Homana homana HOMADAMA............................................................................................................9 Alex Bois From the Field The Knitty Gritty.......................................................................................................12 Teddy Moynihan Seed Stewardship......................................................................................................14 Alex Wenger Tips & Recipes Pumpkin Floriani Cornbread.................................................................................16 R. Neill Wenger Tiste............................................................................................................................17 Ana Caballero Polenta with Roasted Vegetables............................................................................18 Kenan Rabah Future When Everybody Eats.............................................................................................19 Charlyn Griffith-Oro 3 FOOD WAYS FOOD WAYS JZM_MZQM[\PI\KW]TL¼^M[]XXTQML\PMU _Q\PaMI[\WZLQLV¼\PI^M\PMUMIV[\W ZMIKP\PMU +]MW]Z[\IZ[IT\ZQ[QV¼JZMIL?Q\P \PM PMTX WN PaLZWOMV XZWL]KML Ja QueenCorn +TW[\ZQLQ]U XMZNZQVOMV[ \PM [IUM JIK\MZQI NW]VL QV OIVOZMVM \PQ[ ]VQY]MTa )UMZQKIV JZMIL ZQ[M[ QV I [QUQTIZ_Ia\WaMI[\MLJZMIL[IQLMLJa KIZJWVLQW`QLMJ]\_Q\PI_QTLÆI^WZ ]MK\ 1V WZLMZ \W K]T\Q^I\M \PQٺWZVQ[\PMUW[\_QLMTaXZWL]KMLKZWXOZW_VQVÅMTL[WVUWZM\PIV\PZMM [QLM M CY]IZ\MZ[WN \PM_WZTL¼[KW]V\ZQM[ø?M¼^MÅO]ZMLW]\PW_\W][MQ\\W\PQKS- JIK\MZQI KWZVUMIT UQTS IVL ÆW]Z MVW]ZXQM[NI\\MVW]ZTQ^M[\WKSIVLXW_MZW]ZMVOQVM[)VL\PW]OPPMZMQV IZMUQ`ML\WOM\PMZIVLTMN\QVI_IZU \PM=;KWZVKIVJZQVOW]\\PM_WZ[\QVW]ZUWVWKZWXXQVOOT]KW[MNZ]K\W[M XTIKM ][]ITTa \PM NIUQTa ÅZMXTIKM TW^QVO\PZW_I_IaK]T\]ZMP]UIV¼[ZMTI\QWV[PQX\W\PMKZWXKIVJMJMI]\QN]T Salt WZ _WWLJ]ZVQVO [\W^M \W NMZUMV\ \WW0MZMIZMINM_]XTQN\QVOSMZVMT[NZWUVMIZIVLNIZ -QOP\\W\_MT^MPW]Z[TI\MZaW]PI^MI NWIUaUM[[\PI\[UMTT[I[QN I\MMVIOM • <PMW_VMZ[WN *T]M+WZV:M[\I]ZIV\WV\PM1\ITQIV5IZSM\\PM;IVLW^IT JWaPILTMN\PQ[LQZ\a[WKS[IVLIP]VS NIUQTaQUXWZ\[JT]MKWZVNZWU;IV5I\MWLM7bWTKWQV8]MJTI5M`QKW WN JZQMQVPQ[TWKSMZNWZINM__MMS[ i .WTS[Q\UILM4W[\*ZMIL¼[W^MV[\QVS \WUISM[\MTTIZ\WZ\QTTI[IVLXQVWTM<PMa¼ZM[]XXWZ\QVOIKWUU]VQ\aWN R sing NIZUMZ[_PWIZMXZW\MK\QVO\PMOMVM\QKLQ^MZ[Q\aWN PMZQ\IOM^IZQM\QM[_PQTM NWZ 07=:; IN\MZ _M K]T\Q^I\ML \PQ[ UISQVOITQ^QVO [\IZ\MZ<PM [\IZ\MZ Q[ \PMV NML UWZM ÆW]Z \W KZMI\M I ¹[XWVOMº IVL TMN\ • <PQ[[MI[WVI\TMI[\8MVV[aT^IVQIKWZVNIZUMZ[IZMQV\PMXZWKM[[WN \W [Q\ NWZ ZW]OPTa IVW\PMZ PW]Z .Q- KWV^MZ\QVO\PMQZÅMTL[NZWUKWV^MV\QWVIT\WWZOIVQK_Q\P\PMPMTXWN WZ- VITTa\PQ[OTWZQW][TaX]\ZQLUM[[KIV OIVQKKZWXKWV[]T\IV\[I\\PM:WLITM1V[\Q\]\M)VLgasp\PMXZWRMK\Q[XIZ\- Bread JMSVMILMLQV\W[IT\ÆW]ZIVLITQ\- TaN]VLMLJa\PM=;,) Sam DeGennaro \TM UWZM _I\MZ \W JMKWUM I LW]OP • 1ZWY]WQ[?PQ\M+WZVI0I]LMVW[I]VMM^IZQM\a\PI\¼[I\TMI[\aMIZ[ 1N aW]¼^MM^MZ_IV\ML\WQV[XQZM]V- WTLQ[SMX\ITQ^MQV/IVWVLIOWVI6I\Q^M)UMZQKIVPQ[\WZQK[Q\MQV6M_ _IV\ML O]M[\[ \W M`K][M \PMU[MT^M[ NZWU aW]Z PWUM JISM \PQ[ JZMIL AWZS:M[QLMV\[_WZS_Q\P6I\Q^M)UMZQKIVNIZUMZ[\WTMIZV\WOZW_PIZ- I^M aW] M^MZ _WVLMZML _PI\ Q\ <PM[\IZ\MZQ[I^MZaMI[QTaKWV\IQVML ^M[\XZWKM[[IVLUQTT\PMKWZV#\PMaPWXM\WUISMQ\\PM[\IXTMQ\WVKM_I[ _W]TL JM TQSM \W TMI^MV [WUM- 0 [\IVS J]\ WVKM aW] [\IZ\ KZMI\QVO I NWZ\PM;MVMKIXMWXTM \PQVO _Q\PW]\ aMI[\ WZ JISQVO [WLI' ÅVITLW]OPIVLOM\\QVOaW]ZW^MVQV- • 1V[W]\PMZV7I`IKI\PMQVLQOMVW][5Q`MXMWXTMK]T\Q^I\MKWZV\PI\KIV ?PI\QN aW]_IV\ML\WJISMJZMILNWZ ^WT^MLM`XMK\\WJMKWVNZWV\ML_Q\P NMZ\QTQbMQ\[MTN7TW\~V¼[IMZQITZWW\[XZWL]KMIJIK\MZQIZQKPU]K][\PI\KIV aW]ZNIUQTaJ]\_MZMZM[\ZQK\ML\WQV- \PM NIK\ \PI\ aW]Z SQ\KPMV Q[ VW_ I Å`VQ\ZWOMVQV\PMIQZ\WNMML\PMXTIV\ OZMLQMV\[\PI\_W]TLTI[\WVI_MMS[ ZW\\QVO_I[\MTIVLÅTTML_Q\POIZJIOM TWVORW]ZVMa'?WUMVWN )XXITIKPQI +WVOZI\]TI\QWV[0W_M^MZaW]Z\ZQIT[ QV \PM TI\M ¼[ NIKML \PM[M M`IK\ _QTTJMZM_IZLML_Q\PI\ZMI\\PI\PI[ XZWJTMU[ ,M[XQ\M QUUQOZI\QVO NZWU IJ]\\MZaXIZUM[IVaÆI^WZIVLI[WN\ ¹The U.S. is the top producer, harvesting more than 375 million metric tons from about -]ZWXMIV KWUU]VQ\QM[ _Q\P [\ZWVO LMTQKI\MKZ]UJ !UQTTQWVIKZM[IJW]\! Q[OMVM\QKITTaUWLQÅML^IZQM\QM[<PQ[aMIZJMKI][MWN\PM aMI[\IVL[W]ZLW]OP\ZILQ\QWV[\PM[M extremely heavy rains in the corn belt in June and July, planting was delayed; the USDA )TT[UMTT[I[QLM\PQ[JZMIL_I[^Q\ITTa estimates this year’s yields will be at least four percent lower than last year — better KWV[MZ^I\Q^M -^IVOMTQKIT )UMZQ- stock up on Fritos and Four Roses before prices spike! KIV[ MQ\PMZ ZMN][ML \W I[[WKQI\M _Q\P QUXWZ\IV\ \W \PM []Z^Q^IT WN UW]V- 4 5 FOOD WAYS FOOD WAYS Masa \IQVKWUU]VQ\QM[NZWU;W]\P_M[\8) ZQOP\LW_VQV\W<MVVM[[MMIVL6WZ\P +IZWTQVI1[WTI\MLIVLITUW[\MV\QZMTa ZMTQIV\WVWZIT\ZILQ\QWV[\PM_WUMV WN \PM[M[M\\TMUMV\[_MZM\PZQN\aIVL QVOMVQW][ MVW]OP \W ÅVL I NMZUMV\ Cooperativa \PI\_WZSML_Q\P\PMQZW_VKZWX[IVL Katherine Rapin KW]TL JM ZMXTQKI\ML NWZ OMVMZI\QWV[ 1\_I[V¼\]V\QT\PM ¼[_PMVKWU- UMZKQIT aMI[\ _I[ _QLMTa LQ[\ZQJ]\ML \PI\ \PQ[ JZMIL NILML QV\W WJ[K]ZQ\a ^MZa .ZQLIa KWWS[ I\ -^MV [W JISMZQM[ TQSM :Q[QVO +ZMMS E;W]\P 8PQTTa *IZJIKWI *ISMZaQV5\5WZZQ[8)IVLJISMZ[ OZQVLIJW]\XW]VL[WN KWZV TQSM /MVM^QM^M *IZL_MTT PI^M LWVM \WUISM\PMUI[I\PI\\PMa¼TTXZM[[ \PM TMO_WZS \W SMMX \PQ[ \ZMI\ ITQ^M QV\W \PW][IVL[ WN OWTLMV \WZ\QTTI[ 1VNIK\QN aW]¼ZMTWWSQVONWZZMKQXM[ W^MZ \PM _MMSMVL ,]ZQVO \PM ZM[\I]ZIV\ ¹0QKSWZa 3QVO Q[ IV WTL [\WZQM[IVL[KQMVKMI[Q\ZMTI\M[\W[IT\ PW]Z[\PMZM[\I]ZIV\Q[WXMVW^MZ\PZMM [W]\PMZV ^IZQM\aº *ZMVLTM [Ia[ ¹1\ ZQ[QV¼JZMIL/MVM^QM^MIVLPMZJIS- LIa[MIKP_MMS\PMa[MZ^M\WZ- KIV XZWL]KM QVKP MIZ[ _Q\P NI\ QVO XIZ\VMZ ;][IV :Ia *ZW_V PI^M \QTTI[ SMZVMT[º I_MJ[Q\MLMLQKI\ML\WQ\ITT[IT\ZQ[- 0Q[KWZVUISM[\WZ\QTTI[\PI\IZMLMMX- QVOJZMILVM\ 1 PQOPTa ZMKWUUMVL *]\\PMUW[\KZ]KQITXZWKM[[PIXXMV[ Ta aMTTW_ \MVLMZ IVL I JQ\ [_MM\ · MZMV\NZWU\PMVMIZTa_PQ\MٺXMZ][QVO[WUMWN \PMQV\MZ^QM_[_Q\P \PMVQOP\JMNWZMI[\PMKWZV[\MMX[QV ^I[\TaLQ WTLMZ NWTS[ _PW OZM_ ]X MI\QVO IVL IV ITSITQVM [WT]\QWV WN [TISML TQUM ]VQNWZU \WZ\QTTI[ NW]VL XZM\\a U]KP UISQVO\PQ[JZMIL_Q\P\PMQZUW\PMZ[ KITKQ]U PaLZW`QLM IVL _I\MZ 1\¼[ M^MZa_PMZMMT[M IV IVKQMV\ UM\PWL KITTML VQ`\IUIT- 4W[\ *ZMIL¼[ \ISM WV \PQ[ V]OOM\ WN 7VM Y]IZ\MZ WN \WZ\QTTI[ QV 5M`QKW QbI\QWVø \PI\ ZMVLMZ[ KWZV UWZM V]- )UMZQKIVQVOMV]Q\aKWUM[QV\PMNWZU IVLIJW]\PITN QV\PM=;IZMUILM \ZQ\QW][ ÆI^WZN]T IVL MI[QMZ \W KWWS# WN \PMKWZVQM[\\PQVO_MKW]TLU][\MZ _Q\P5I[MKIITQVMWN LZaKWZVÆW]Z Q\TWW[MV[\PMW]\MZKWI\WN \PMSMZVMT I [IT\ ZQ[QV¼ KWZVJZMIL <PM ÆI^WZ XZWL]K\[KZMI\MLJa\PMU]T\QVI\QWVIT KITTML\PMXMZQKIZXSQTT[UaKW\W`QV[ IVL [UMTT aW]¼TT M`XMZQMVKM _Q\P \PM KWUXIVa /Z]UI [\IZ\ML Ja :WJMZ- IVLUISM[QVPMZMV\V]\ZQMV\[TQSMVQI- TWIN QVaW]ZJW`Q[ITUW[\QLMV\QKIT\W \W/WVbITMb*IZZMZIQV!!1V\PM KQVI^IQTIJTMNWZ][\WIJ[WZJ \PM\ZILQ\QWVIT_PQ\MJZMILTWIN_Q\P !![_Q\P\PMPMTXWN \PM5M`QKIV ITQ\\TMM`\ZIKWZVNWZOWWLUMI[]ZM )VLQ\¼[XIZ\Ta_PI\UISM[\PM\WZ\Q- XZM[QLMV\ IVL *IZZMZI¼[ XIT +IZ- -I\Q\I[Q[WZ\WI[\Q\_Q\P[WUMJ]\- TTI[I\;W]\P8PQTTa*IZJIKWI[WLIVO TW[ ;ITQVI[ LM /WZ\IZQ /Z]UI Å`ML \MZIVLRIUGOOD LORD, DO THIS OWWL8T][\PMa][MKWZVOZW_VR][\ \PMIUW]V\WN KWZV\PMOW^MZVUMV\ -Q\PMZ_IaaW]¼ZMMI\QVOITQ\\TMXQMKM UQTM[ I_Ia I\ /ZMMV 5MILW_ JW]OP\ NZWU QVLMXMVLMV\ NIZUMZ[ WN )XXITIKPQIVPQ[\WZa .IZU <PQ[ NITT NIZUMZ 1IV *ZMVLTM I\INIQZXZQKMIVL[WTL\W\WZ\QTTMZQ- _QTT PIZ^M[\ MQOP\ IKZM[ WN 0QKSWZa I[IVLVMKM[[Q\I\ML\PI\ITTOZW_\PQV 3QVO IVL :MQL¼[ AMTTW_ ,MV\ · \_W \PMUIZSM\_W]TLJMÅTTMLJa5I[MKI ^IZQM\QM[WN LZaKWZVPMOZW_[NWZ\PM <PI\UW^MIKKMTMZI\ML/Z]UI¼[ZQ[M 6 7 FOOD WAYS FOOD WAYS \W\PMJQOOM[\KWZVÆW]ZIVL\WZ\QTTI XZWL]KMZQV\PM_WZTL Anadana. 5I[MKI Q[ ZM[XWV[QJTM NWZ X]\\QVO \PW][IVL[WN QVLMXMVLMV\KWZVNIZU- MZ[ QV +MV\ZIT IVL ;W]\P )UMZQKI Anaconda. W]\ WN J][QVM[[ IVL TIZOMTa _QXQVO W]\INWWL\ZILQ\QWV_PQTMQVKZMI[QVO LMXMVLMVKM WV 5WV[IV\W¼[ /57 Amadama. :W]VL]X:MILa KWZV \PMa ][M \W UISM\PMQZXZWL]K\[<PM\WZ\QTTI¼[I\ ;W]\P 8PQTTa *IZJIKWI UILM _Q\P NZM[P UI[I NZWU TWKIT KWZV IZM IV Amadana. IK\ WN ZM[Q[\IVKM \PI\ \PMa¼ZM PWXQVO \W [XZMIL <PMa¼ZM NWZUQVO I 5I[I +WWXMZI\Q^I·IKWWXMZI\Q^MTaW_VML Amadama. UI[IUISQVOJ][QVM[[WN _PQKP]V- LWK]UMV\ML _WZSMZ[ KIV TMOITTa JM UMUJMZW_VMZ[ \PI\ []XXTQM[ UI[I Homana _PWTM[ITM \W 8PQTTa ZM[\I]ZIV\[ [Ia[ ;W]\P8PQTTa*IZJIKWIKWW_VMZ*MV 5QTTMZ1VLQ^QL]ITK][\WUMZ[KIVJ]a homana ISQTWWN UI[I_PQKPUISM[\W \WZ\QTTI[\W\ISMPWUMNWZ *ZMVLTM_QTTJM\PMÅZ[\NIZUMZUMU- HOMADAMA JMZ [MTTQVO \PM KWWX IJW]\ (sounds captured at farmer’s markets XW]VL[WN KWZV\PQ[aMIZ¹1\¼[IVW]\- W^MZ[Q`aMIZ[WN[MTTQVO)VILIUIJZMIL TM\\PI\ITTW_[][\WLM^W\MUWZMIKZM- IOM\WKWZVIVL_MOM\INIQZXZQKMº Alex Bois *ZMVLTM[Ia[ <PMUI[I_QTTJM[WTLI\INIQZXZQKM a XIZMV\[ _PQ[SML UM I_Ia \WW# XMZSQTW[Ia[5QTTMZ¹?M_IV\ NZWU Ua JQZ\PXTIKM WN *IT\Q- \W[MTT\WITT\PMZM[\I]ZIV\[LW_VPMZM 5 UWZM_PMV1_I[JIZMTaW]\WN \WL- · \PM 5M`QKIV NIUQTa J][QVM[[M[ QV LTMZPWWLQV\PMMIZTa»![1[XMV\\PM ;W]\P8PQTTa·[W\PI\ITT\PM\WZ\QTTI[ VM`\WZ[WaMIZ[QV6M_-VOTIVL KIVOM\JM\\MZQV\PMVMQOPJWZPWWLº UW[\Ta IZW]VL *W[\WV *]\ ]V\QT _M ¹The word comes from the Mexican Spanish adaptation of nextamalli, the Aztec term for UW^ML UW[\ NIUQTa W]\QVO[ _MZM the process, which literally translates to “ashes” and “unformed corn dough.” Aztec and LMKQLMLTa KZIJKMV\ZQK 1 ZMUMUJMZ Mayan civilizations likely used limestone to make the alkaline cooking liquid, Native XQTQVOQV\WW]ZKIZ\Z]VSN]TTWN XIKS- Americans used wood ash as a source of calcium.
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