CONTENTS Foodways Salt Rising Bread ...................................................................................................... Sam DeGennaro Masa Cooperativa......................................................................................................7 Katherine Rapin Anadana. Anaconda. Amadama. Amadana. Amadama. Homana homana HOMADAMA............................................................................................................9 Alex Bois From the Field The Knitty Gritty.......................................................................................................12 Teddy Moynihan Seed Stewardship......................................................................................................14 Alex Wenger Tips & Recipes Pumpkin Floriani Cornbread.................................................................................16 R. Neill Wenger Tiste............................................................................................................................17 Ana Caballero Polenta with Roasted Vegetables............................................................................18 Kenan Rabah Future When Everybody Eats.............................................................................................19 Charlyn Griffith-Oro 3 FOOD WAYS FOOD WAYS JZM_MZQM[\PI\KW]TL¼^M[]XXTQML\PMU _Q\PaMI[\WZLQLV¼\PI^M\PMUMIV[\W ZMIKP\PMU +]MW]Z[\IZ[IT\ZQ[QV¼JZMIL?Q\P \PM PMTX WN PaLZWOMV XZWL]KML Ja QueenCorn +TW[\ZQLQ]U XMZNZQVOMV[ \PM [IUM JIK\MZQI NW]VL QV OIVOZMVM \PQ[ ]VQY]MTa )UMZQKIV JZMIL ZQ[M[ QV I [QUQTIZ_Ia\WaMI[\MLJZMIL[IQLMLJa KIZJWVLQW`QLMJ]\_Q\PI_QTLÆI^WZ ]MK\ 1V WZLMZ \W K]T\Q^I\M \PQٺWZVQ[\PMUW[\_QLMTaXZWL]KMLKZWXOZW_VQVÅMTL[WVUWZM\PIV\PZMM [QLM M CY]IZ\MZ[WN \PM_WZTL¼[KW]V\ZQM[ø?M¼^MÅO]ZMLW]\PW_\W][MQ\\W\PQKS- JIK\MZQI KWZVUMIT UQTS IVL ÆW]Z MVW]ZXQM[NI\\MVW]ZTQ^M[\WKSIVLXW_MZW]ZMVOQVM[)VL\PW]OPPMZMQV IZMUQ`ML\WOM\PMZIVLTMN\QVI_IZU \PM=;KWZVKIVJZQVOW]\\PM_WZ[\QVW]ZUWVWKZWXXQVOOT]KW[MNZ]K\W[M XTIKM ][]ITTa \PM NIUQTa ÅZMXTIKM TW^QVO\PZW_I_IaK]T\]ZMP]UIV¼[ZMTI\QWV[PQX\W\PMKZWXKIVJMJMI]\QN]T Salt WZ _WWLJ]ZVQVO [\W^M \W NMZUMV\ \WW0MZMIZMINM_]XTQN\QVOSMZVMT[NZWUVMIZIVLNIZ -QOP\\W\_MT^MPW]Z[TI\MZaW]PI^MI NWIUaUM[[\PI\[UMTT[I[QN I\MMVIOM • <PMW_VMZ[WN *T]M+WZV:M[\I]ZIV\WV\PM1\ITQIV5IZSM\\PM;IVLW^IT JWaPILTMN\PQ[LQZ\a[WKS[IVLIP]VS NIUQTaQUXWZ\[JT]MKWZVNZWU;IV5I\MWLM7bWTKWQV8]MJTI5M`QKW WN JZQMQVPQ[TWKSMZNWZINM__MMS[ i .WTS[Q\UILM4W[\*ZMIL¼[W^MV[\QVS \WUISM[\MTTIZ\WZ\QTTI[IVLXQVWTM<PMa¼ZM[]XXWZ\QVOIKWUU]VQ\aWN R sing NIZUMZ[_PWIZMXZW\MK\QVO\PMOMVM\QKLQ^MZ[Q\aWN PMZQ\IOM^IZQM\QM[_PQTM NWZ 07=:; IN\MZ _M K]T\Q^I\ML \PQ[ UISQVOITQ^QVO [\IZ\MZ<PM [\IZ\MZ Q[ \PMV NML UWZM ÆW]Z \W KZMI\M I ¹[XWVOMº IVL TMN\ • <PQ[[MI[WVI\TMI[\8MVV[aT^IVQIKWZVNIZUMZ[IZMQV\PMXZWKM[[WN \W [Q\ NWZ ZW]OPTa IVW\PMZ PW]Z .Q- KWV^MZ\QVO\PMQZÅMTL[NZWUKWV^MV\QWVIT\WWZOIVQK_Q\P\PMPMTXWN WZ- VITTa\PQ[OTWZQW][TaX]\ZQLUM[[KIV OIVQKKZWXKWV[]T\IV\[I\\PM:WLITM1V[\Q\]\M)VLgasp\PMXZWRMK\Q[XIZ\- Bread JMSVMILMLQV\W[IT\ÆW]ZIVLITQ\- TaN]VLMLJa\PM=;,) Sam DeGennaro \TM UWZM _I\MZ \W JMKWUM I LW]OP • 1ZWY]WQ[?PQ\M+WZVI0I]LMVW[I]VMM^IZQM\a\PI\¼[I\TMI[\aMIZ[ 1N aW]¼^MM^MZ_IV\ML\WQV[XQZM]V- WTLQ[SMX\ITQ^MQV/IVWVLIOWVI6I\Q^M)UMZQKIVPQ[\WZQK[Q\MQV6M_ _IV\ML O]M[\[ \W M`K][M \PMU[MT^M[ NZWU aW]Z PWUM JISM \PQ[ JZMIL AWZS:M[QLMV\[_WZS_Q\P6I\Q^M)UMZQKIVNIZUMZ[\WTMIZV\WOZW_PIZ- I^M aW] M^MZ _WVLMZML _PI\ Q\ <PM[\IZ\MZQ[I^MZaMI[QTaKWV\IQVML ^M[\XZWKM[[IVLUQTT\PMKWZV#\PMaPWXM\WUISMQ\\PM[\IXTMQ\WVKM_I[ _W]TL JM TQSM \W TMI^MV [WUM- 0 [\IVS J]\ WVKM aW] [\IZ\ KZMI\QVO I NWZ\PM;MVMKIXMWXTM \PQVO _Q\PW]\ aMI[\ WZ JISQVO [WLI' ÅVITLW]OPIVLOM\\QVOaW]ZW^MVQV- • 1V[W]\PMZV7I`IKI\PMQVLQOMVW][5Q`MXMWXTMK]T\Q^I\MKWZV\PI\KIV ?PI\QN aW]_IV\ML\WJISMJZMILNWZ ^WT^MLM`XMK\\WJMKWVNZWV\ML_Q\P NMZ\QTQbMQ\[MTN7TW\~V¼[IMZQITZWW\[XZWL]KMIJIK\MZQIZQKPU]K][\PI\KIV aW]ZNIUQTaJ]\_MZMZM[\ZQK\ML\WQV- \PM NIK\ \PI\ aW]Z SQ\KPMV Q[ VW_ I Å`VQ\ZWOMVQV\PMIQZ\WNMML\PMXTIV\ OZMLQMV\[\PI\_W]TLTI[\WVI_MMS[ ZW\\QVO_I[\MTIVLÅTTML_Q\POIZJIOM TWVORW]ZVMa'?WUMVWN )XXITIKPQI +WVOZI\]TI\QWV[0W_M^MZaW]Z\ZQIT[ QV \PM TI\M ¼[ NIKML \PM[M M`IK\ _QTTJMZM_IZLML_Q\PI\ZMI\\PI\PI[ XZWJTMU[ ,M[XQ\M QUUQOZI\QVO NZWU IJ]\\MZaXIZUM[IVaÆI^WZIVLI[WN\ ¹The U.S. is the top producer, harvesting more than 375 million metric tons from about -]ZWXMIV KWUU]VQ\QM[ _Q\P [\ZWVO LMTQKI\MKZ]UJ !UQTTQWVIKZM[IJW]\! 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W]\ WN J][QVM[[ IVL TIZOMTa _QXQVO W]\INWWL\ZILQ\QWV_PQTMQVKZMI[QVO LMXMVLMVKM WV 5WV[IV\W¼[ /57 Amadama. :W]VL]X:MILa KWZV \PMa ][M \W UISM\PMQZXZWL]K\[<PM\WZ\QTTI¼[I\ ;W]\P 8PQTTa *IZJIKWI UILM _Q\P NZM[P UI[I NZWU TWKIT KWZV IZM IV Amadana. IK\ WN ZM[Q[\IVKM \PI\ \PMa¼ZM PWXQVO \W [XZMIL <PMa¼ZM NWZUQVO I 5I[I +WWXMZI\Q^I·IKWWXMZI\Q^MTaW_VML Amadama. UI[IUISQVOJ][QVM[[WN _PQKP]V- LWK]UMV\ML _WZSMZ[ KIV TMOITTa JM UMUJMZW_VMZ[ \PI\ []XXTQM[ UI[I Homana _PWTM[ITM \W 8PQTTa ZM[\I]ZIV\[ [Ia[ ;W]\P8PQTTa*IZJIKWIKWW_VMZ*MV 5QTTMZ1VLQ^QL]ITK][\WUMZ[KIVJ]a homana ISQTWWN UI[I_PQKPUISM[\W \WZ\QTTI[\W\ISMPWUMNWZ *ZMVLTM_QTTJM\PMÅZ[\NIZUMZUMU- HOMADAMA JMZ [MTTQVO \PM KWWX IJW]\ (sounds captured at farmer’s markets XW]VL[WN KWZV\PQ[aMIZ¹1\¼[IVW]\- W^MZ[Q`aMIZ[WN[MTTQVO)VILIUIJZMIL TM\\PI\ITTW_[][\WLM^W\MUWZMIKZM- IOM\WKWZVIVL_MOM\INIQZXZQKMº Alex Bois *ZMVLTM[Ia[ <PMUI[I_QTTJM[WTLI\INIQZXZQKM a XIZMV\[ _PQ[SML UM I_Ia \WW# XMZSQTW[Ia[5QTTMZ¹?M_IV\ NZWU Ua JQZ\PXTIKM WN *IT\Q- \W[MTT\WITT\PMZM[\I]ZIV\[LW_VPMZM 5 UWZM_PMV1_I[JIZMTaW]\WN \WL- · \PM 5M`QKIV NIUQTa J][QVM[[M[ QV LTMZPWWLQV\PMMIZTa»![1[XMV\\PM ;W]\P8PQTTa·[W\PI\ITT\PM\WZ\QTTI[ VM`\WZ[WaMIZ[QV6M_-VOTIVL KIVOM\JM\\MZQV\PMVMQOPJWZPWWLº UW[\Ta IZW]VL *W[\WV *]\ ]V\QT _M ¹The word comes from the Mexican Spanish adaptation of nextamalli, the Aztec term for UW^ML UW[\ NIUQTa W]\QVO[ _MZM the process, which literally translates to “ashes” and “unformed corn dough.” Aztec and LMKQLMLTa KZIJKMV\ZQK 1 ZMUMUJMZ Mayan civilizations likely used limestone to make the alkaline cooking liquid, Native XQTQVOQV\WW]ZKIZ\Z]VSN]TTWN XIKS- Americans used wood ash as a source of calcium.