Overseas SM Adventure Travel Since 1978

Mongolia & the Gobi Desert 2017

EXTEND YOUR TRIP

Mystical Yunnan: Kunming, Dali & Lijang

Siberian Odyssey: Lake Baikal & Irkutzsk

Your Travel Handbook CONTENTS

Travel Documents & Entry Requirements . . . 3 Climate ...... 25

Your Passport ...... 3 Visas Required ...... 3 About Your Destinations ...... 29 Trusted Traveler Programs ...... 4 . . . . . 29 Emergency Photocopies of Key Documents . . . . 4 OAT Trip Leaders: A World of Difference ...... 29 Overseas Taxes & Fees ...... 5 Culture & Points to Know Shopping ...... 31 U .S . Customs Regulations & Shipping Health ...... 6 Charges ...... 32

Is This Adventure Right for You? ...... 6 Steps to Take Before Your Trip ...... 7 Demographics & History ...... 33 No Vaccines Required ...... 7 Staying Healthy on Your Trip ...... 8 Resources ...... 45

Suggested Readings ...... 45 Money Matters ...... 11 Suggested Movies ...... 49 Top Three Tips ...... 11 Useful Websites ...... 51 Local Currency ...... 11 How to Exchange Money ...... 12 ATMs ...... 12 Credit & Debit Cards ...... 13 Tipping Guidelines ...... 13

Preparing for Your Trip ...... 15

Land Only Travelers ...... 15 Optional Tours ...... 15 Optional Tours: Reserve Before You Go . . . . . 16 Communications ...... 16

Packing ...... 18

Your Luggage ...... 19 Clothing Suggestions ...... 20 What to Bring ...... 20 Electricity ...... 22

2 ULN2017 07/24/2017 TRAVEL DOCUMENTS & ENTRY REQUIREMENTS

Your Passport • Must be in good condition

• Must be valid for at least 6 months after your scheduled return to the U.S.

• Must have the required number of blank pages (details below)

• The blank pages must be labeled “Visas” at the top. Pages labeled “Amendments and Endorsements” are not acceptable

Need to Renew Your Passport? Contact the National Passport Information Center (NPIC) at 1-877-487-2778, or visit their website at www.travel.state.gov for information on obtaining a new passport or renewing your existing passport. You may also contact our recommended visa service company, PVS International, at 1-800-556-9990 for help with your passport

Recommended Blank Pages Please confirm that your passport has enough blank pages for this adventure.

• Main trip only: You will require 4 blank passport pages.

• Pre-trip extension to Yunnan Province, China: Does not require any additional pages.

• Post-trip extension to Siberia (Russia): You will need 2 more pages for a total of 6.

• Both the pre- and post-trip extensions: You will need a total of 6 blank passport pages

• Stopover in Beijing: Does not require any additional pages.

Visas Required We’ll be sending you a detailed Visa Packet with instructions, application forms, and fees about 100 days prior to your departure. In the meantime, we’re providing the information below as a guideline on what to expect. This info is for U.S. citizens only. All visas and fees are subject to change.

• Mongolia—visa not required. U.S. citizens do not need a visa for this itinerary.

• China (optional extension)—visa required. Can only be obtained in advance: You must obtain this visa before you depart; a Chinese visa cannot be obtained on arrival.

• If you are not taking an optional extension or Stopover in Beijing, then it is unlikely you will need a Chinese visa for the main trip because China offers a visa-free transit program for U.S. and Canadian citizens. This program will be described in more detail in your Visa Packet.

07/24/2017 ULN2017 3 • Russia (Siberia extension)— visa required. Can only be obtained in advance: You must obtain this visa before you depart the U.S. It is very important that you apply for your visa through PVS International. Obtaining a Russian visa on your own through an embassy or consulate is a complicated and bureaucratic process. It requires a letter of sponsorship that Overseas Adventure Travel is unable to supply. PVS is able to work within this restriction when your application is processed through them, but for legal reasons cannot assist you with applying directly to the embassy. Details on obtaining your visa through PVS International will be included with your application. Please note: Russia has strict rules about re-using a previous visa. For example, your visa must be in a valid (not expired) passport. If you have been to Russia before and think your visa may still be valid, please check now by calling PVS at 1-800-556-9990 or by contacting the embassy.

Traveling Without a U.S. Passport? If you are not a U.S. citizen, or if your passport is from any country other than the U.S., it is your responsibility to check with your local consulate, embassy, or a visa services company about visa requirements. We recommend the services of PVS International, a national visa service located in Washington D.C.; they can be reached at 1-800-556-9990 or www. pvsinternational.org.

Trusted Traveler Programs Some travelers have found that Trusted Traveler programs can expedite long waits at customs when re entering the U.S. There are currently three programs available: Global Entry, NEXUS, and SENTRI. These three programs also include TSA Pre-Check, which allows you to use a dedicated security line at participating airports, or you can apply solely for TSA Pre-Check.

TIP: Keep in mind that not all airports and airlines participate in these programs. You may want to consider checking with your airport prior to applying to find out if these programs would benefit you.

To apply for a Trusted Traveler program or TSA Pre-Check, typically you will be asked to pay an application fee (varies by program) and schedule a background check and/or an interview. If you are approved, you will be issued a Known Traveler Number (KTN). Your KTN is valid for a set number of years, based on the conditions of the program. Please see the U.S. Customs and Border Protection website for more details on each of these programs: www.cbp.gov/ travel/trusted-traveler-programs. You can also find more information about TSA Pre-Check at www.tsa.gov/precheck.

If you are enrolled in TSA Pre-Check (or a Trusted Traveler program that includes it), you must provide your KTN to the airlines.

Emergency Photocopies of Key Documents We recommend you carry color photocopies of key documents including the photo page of your passport plus any applicable visas, air itinerary, credit cards (front and back), and an alternative form of ID. Add emergency phone numbers like your credit card company and the number for your travel protection plan. Store copies separate from the originals.

4 ULN2017 07/24/2017 If you plan to email this information to yourself, please keep in mind that email is not always secure; consider using password protection or encryption. Also email is not always available worldwide. As an alternative, you could load these documents onto a flash drive instead, which can do double-duty as a place to backup photos during your trip.

Overseas Taxes & Fees This tour may have taxes and fees that cannot be included in your airline ticket price because you are required to pay them in person onsite. All taxes are subject to change without notice and can be paid in cash (either U.S. or local currency). If applicable, you will receive a list of these fees with your Final Documents.

07/24/2017 ULN2017 5 HEALTH

Is This Adventure Right for You? Please review the information below prior to departing on this adventure. We reserve the right for our Trip Leaders to modify participation, or in some circumstances send travelers home, if their condition would adversely affect the health, safety, or enjoyment of themselves or of other travelers.

PACING • 8 locations in 16 days with four 1-night stays

• Lengthy overland travel of 2-4 hours each on several days

• 4 internal flights, which could be delayed due to frequent weather changes

PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS • Not appropriate for travelers using wheelchairs, walkers, or other mobility aids

• You must be able to walk 3 miles unassisted and participate in 6-8 hours of physical activities each day

• We reserve the right for Trip Leaders to restrict participation, or in some circumstances send travelers home, if their limitations impact the group’s experience

CLIMATE • Daytime temperatures range from 77-95°F in July and August, to 41-60°F in May and September, when snow is also expected

• Due to the varied geography of Mongolia, you will experience a wide range of temperatures and weather conditions

TERRAIN & TRANSPORTATION

• Frequent travel in 4x4 vehicles over poorly maintained—and occasionally non-existent— country roads

• During most transfers, Western-style toilet facilities may not be available; however, drivers will make every effort to find suitable rest area stops upon request

• City travel by 45-passenger air-conditioned motorcoach (no toilet on board). In the Khovsgol Lake and the Gobi Desert, ride in an 8-passenger van with air- conditioning—and ride a camel in the Gobi Desert

• Three 3-hour drives, 4 internal flights of 1-2-hours each

6 ULN2017 07/24/2017 FLIGHT INFORMATION • Travel time will be 17-25 hours and will most likely have two connections of between 2-3 hours

ACCOMMODATIONS & FACILITIES • Lodgings in Ulaanbaatar are standard hotels, but in many locales, we stay in traditional ger tents, with Western-style bath facilities

• Occasionally we may stay in a camp where the facilities are in the main lodge instead

•

Steps to Take Before Your Trip Before you leave on this adventure, we recommend the following:

• Check with the CDC for their recommendations for the countries you’ll be visiting. You can contact them online at http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel or by phone at 1-800-232-4636.

• Have a medical checkup with your doctor at least 6 weeks before your trip.

• Pick up any necessary medications, both prescription and over-the-counter.

• Have a dental and/or eye checkup. (Recommended, but less urgent)

No Vaccines Required At the time of writing there were no required vaccines for this trip. The CDC recommends that all travelers be up to date on their routine vaccinations and on basic travel vaccines like Hepatitis A and Typhoid, but these are suggestions only. However, this could change in future so we encourage you to check with the CDC yourself before meeting with your doctor.

Medication Suggestions • An antibiotic medication for gastrointestinal illness

• Prescription pain medication in the unlikely event of an injury in a remote location

• Motion sickness medication, if you are susceptible

• For the Yunnan pre-trip extension only: Altitude sickness. During this extension we’ll stay at altitudes from 6,500 to 8,000 feet above sea level. At these elevations, almost everyone feels some symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), also known as altitude sickness.

• For the Yunnan pre-trip extension only: Anti-malarial medication. At time of writing the CDC did recommend discussing anti-malaria medication with your doctor for travel in Yunnan. Anti-malarial medication can have strong side effects, so be certain to ask your doctor first.

07/24/2017 ULN2017 7 This is one adventure where you don’t want to forget your medications—it may be hard to get them in Ulaanbaatar, and it may be impossible in the countryside of Mongolia.

Traveling with Medications • Pack medications in your carry-on bag to avoid loss and to have them handy.

• Keep medicines in their original, labeled containers for a quicker security screen at the airport and a better experience if you get stopped by customs while overseas.

• Bring copies of your prescriptions, written using the generic drug name rather than a brand name to be prepared for any unforeseen loss of your medications.

We recommend checking this site for medication restrictions by country:http://travel.state. gov/content/passports/english/go/customs.html. (Follow the links to “Local Laws & Special Circumstances” for each country; if you don’t see any medications specifically mentioned, then you can presume major U.S. brands should be OK).

For Russia, the State Department did warn that large quantities of medication will receive scrutiny by Russian customs; they recommend that all U.S. citizens entering Russia with any prescription medication carry a copy of their valid U.S. prescription. This is your proof that your prescription medication was lawfully obtained in the United States.

Staying Healthy on Your Trip

Jet Lag Tips • Start your trip well-rested.

• Begin a gradual transition to your new time zone before you leave or switch to your destination time zone when you get on the plane.

• Attempt to sleep and eat according to the new schedule.

• Avoid heavy eating and drinking caffeine or alcoholic beverages right before–and during– your flight.

• Drink plenty of water and/or fruit juice while flying

• Stretch your legs, neck, and back periodically while seated on the plane.

• After arrival, avoid the temptation to nap.

• Don’t push yourself to see a lot on your first day.

• Try to stay awake your first day until after dinner.

8 ULN2017 07/24/2017 Allergies If you have any serious allergies or dietary restrictions, we advise you to notify us at least 30 days prior to your departure. Please call our Traveler Support team at 1-800-221-0814, and we will communicate them to our regional office. Every effort will be made to accommodate you.

Water • Tap water is not safe to drink. Bottled water is readily available.

• Inspect each bottle before you buy it to make sure the cap is sealed properly.

• Carry a bottle in your daypack at all times.

• Bottled drinks and hot drinks that have been boiled are safe to drink.

• Avoid drinks with ice in them.

• Carry a handkerchief to dry the tops of bottled drinks before and after opening.

Food • We’ve carefully chosen the restaurants for your group meals, and fresh fruits and salads at these establishments are generally as safe as they are in restaurants in the U.S. Your Trip Leader can suggest restaurants for the meal you take on your own.

• Carry a handkerchief to dry any wet utensils or plates.

• Be very careful with food sold from vendors on the street, and with uncooked fruit and other foods. Fruit that you peel yourself is usually safe—avoid lettuce and other unpeeled produce.

Electricity Supply A constant electricity supply cannot be guaranteed during overnight stays. Travelers dependent on electricity supply (as in the case of those with sleep apnea) should consider a different OAT adventure or ensure their apparatus has back-up battery power. We strongly recommend bringing a flashlight with you—the lighting in the camps can be dim.

Altitude Illness During the extension to Yunnan Province, we’ll stay in cities with altitudes that range from roughly 6,500 feet above sea level to roughly 8,000 feet above seas level. You will probably feel some effects of this altitude when you first arrive. Even if you’ve been to high elevations previously, you could have a different reaction this time. For most people, the symptoms are mild, and will pass in a day or so.

You should take it easy, avoid smoking and alcohol, and drink plenty of fluids. Some people take an altitude sickness medication, starting when they arrive or one day before. Don’t take sleeping medications, as they suppress respiration. The most common symptoms are

07/24/2017 ULN2017 9 lightheadedness, shortness of breath, headache, nausea, sleeplessness, and loss of appetite. If these are bothersome, you should start to take medication. Even though you may experience a decreased appetite, force yourself to eat soups and some foods.

If these ‘normal’ altitude symptoms become unmanageable, it is critical that you inform your Trip Leader. Please let the leader know if you experience any of the following: serious difficulty breathing, mental confusion, a severe and unremitting headache, continued difficulty breathing after a period of rest, or poor physical coordination (ataxia).

TIP: Even if your risk is medium to low, it may be worthwhile to bring a medication with you so that you have it on hand for immediate use if needed. No one wants to buy medication they don’t need, but on the other hand, no one wants to interrupt their trip for a doctor’s visit

10 ULN2017 07/24/2017 MONEY MATTERS

Top Three Tips • Carry a mix of different types of payments, such as local currency, an ATM card, and a credit card. Traveler’s checks are not accepted in the countries you will be visiting.

• Traveler’s checks are not recommended. They can be difficult to exchange and are rarely accepted in shops and restaurants.

• Bring a cash reserve to cover expenses in Mongolia. ATM cards, credit cards, and debit cards are not widely accepted so you should not rely on these. Torn, worn, dirty, or taped U.S. bills may not be accepted. Look for bills issued in 2009 and later.

Local Currency For current exchange rates, please refer to an online converter tool like www.xe.com/ currencyconverter, your bank, or the financial section of your newspaper.

China The official currency in China is called the renminbi (“people’s money”) and is abbreviated RMB. The main unit of currency is the yuan, which is divided into 10 jiao (pronounced as mao).

• Bills come in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, and 100 yuan, as well as 1, 2, and 5 jiao, and 1, 2, and 5 fen.

• Coins come in denominations of 1 yuan, as well as 1 and 5 jiao.

In China you usually pay with local currency at shops and restaurants and tip in local currency too. But U.S. dollars may be accepted by some street vendors or the government’s Friendship Stores. Each time you change money, you will receive a receipt. Keep these exchange slips. You can exchange any leftover Chinese yuan bills at the airport before you depart from mainland China.

Mongolia Legal tender in Mongolia is the tugrik (or togrog). Coins are not used.

• Bills come in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 500, 1,000, 5,000, 10,000 and 20,000 tugriks

Local currency is preferred. U.S. dollars might be accepted in some souvenir shops, but that’s about it. You can obtain Mongolian currency at the hotel in Ulaanbaatar, at a bank, or at an exchange office. Remember, ATMs are scarce—even rare—in rural areas and banks may be far and few in between, so it would be wise to stock up on local currency in Ulaanbaatar before you depart for the countryside.

07/24/2017 ULN2017 11 Russia The monetary unit of Russia is the ruble, which is divided into 100 copeks. On price tags, it is abbreviated to p. Banknote and coin denominations are as follows:

• Banknotes: 10, 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000 rubles

• Coins: 10 and 50 copeks and 1, 2, 5 and 10 rubles

Russian rubles can be very difficult to get outside of Russia, so we recommend exchanging money after you arrive.

How to Exchange Money You can change money when you arrive at the airport, or at banks, most hotels, and money exchange offices. In some countries you do not even need to exchange money at all—you can use U.S. dollars. For more information on what type of currency can be used on this trip, see the “Currency” section. Torn, dirty, or taped U.S. bills may not be accepted for exchange or payment. It is best to use new bills—both in terms of use and issue date. Please try to use bills issued in 2009 and later.

Using a local ATM on an international network will allow you to withdraw money from your U.S. account in local currency; your bank at home will calculate the conversion rate and charge you in U.S. dollars. However, do not rely on ATMs in Mongolia where they can be hard to find or out of service. Plan to bring a cash reserve to cover your expenses.

ATMs When using the ATM, keep in mind that it may only accept cards from local banks, and may not allow cash advances on credit cards; you might need to try more than one ATM or more than one card.

Many banks charge a fee of $1-$5 each time you use a foreign ATM. Others may charge you a percentage of the amount you withdraw. We recommend that you check with your bank before you depart.

Lastly, don’t forget to memorize the actual digits of your card’s PIN number (many keypads at foreign ATMs do not include letters on their keys—they only display numbers.)

China: ATMs are very common in cities and towns, but may not be available in rural villages.

Mongolia: ATms are really only available in large cities like Ulaanbaatar. But even in Ulaanbaatar, the ATMs that are available may not accept your card; you may need to try more than one before you can withdraw money. For these reasons, you should NOT expect to rely on ATMs the way you might in the U.S. or in Europe. It is probably more practical to bring a reserve of cash for daily expenses and view the ATM as a backup. Another option is to bring enough cash to get part way through the trip, and then plan on making one large withdrawal in Ulaanbaatar to cover the rest of the trip.

Russia: International ATM networks are widely available in larger cities and small towns.

12 ULN2017 07/24/2017 Credit & Debit Cards Even if you don’t plan on using a credit card during your trip, we still suggest that you bring one or two as a backup, especially if you are planning a large purchase (artwork, jewelry). We also suggest that you bring more than one brand of card (i.e. Visa, MasterCard, American Express) if possible, because not every shop will take every card. For example, although the Discover card is accepted in some countries outside the U.S., it is not widely adopted, so other brands will work at a much larger range of stores, restaurants, etc.

China: Credit card use is common at hotels and shops, although many restaurants are still “cash only”. Credit card use is less common in rural villages or remote areas, like Tibet or Inner Mongolia.

Mongolia: Credit card use is becoming more common in Mongolia, especially in business related to travelers, however many businesses, shops, and restaurants are still “cash only”. Therefore a credit card will be useful in some situations, but not all, which is why bringing a cash reserve for daily expenses is recommended. Businesses that do take credit cards will often charge a fee to do so; ask before making your purchase.

Russia: Credit and debit cards are widely accepted in Russia, though some smaller establishments may require cash.

Notify Card Providers Many credit card companies and banks have fraud alert departments that will freeze your card if they see suspicious charges—such as charges or withdrawals from another country. To avoid an accidental security block, it is a good idea to notify your credit card company and/or bank you will be using your cards abroad. You can do this by calling their customer service number a week or two before your departure. Some banks or credit card companies will also let you do this online.

You should also double-check what phone number you could call if you have a problem with a card while you are abroad. Don’t assume you can use the 1-800 number printed on the back of your card—most 1 800 numbers don’t work outside of the U.S.!

Tipping Guidelines Of course, whether you tip, and how much, is always at your own discretion. Listed below are our recommendations for the tips that are not included in your tour price:

OAT Trip Leader: It is customary to express a personal “thank you” to your OAT Trip Leader at the end of your trip, especially if he or she has provided you with individual service. As a guideline, many travelers give $7-$10 per person per day.

Housekeeping staff at hotels: $1-2 per room, per night

Waiters: Tipping at restaurants is not a part of Mongolian culture or tradition. If you receive such good service that you would like to leave a tip, 10% of the bill is a generous amount. (At restaurants, you may see a 10-15% charge on the bill. This is a sales tax, not a tip.)

07/24/2017 ULN2017 13 Taxi drivers: If you are taking a taxi by yourself, keep in mind that tipping is not common practice, but many people simply let the driver keep the change by rounding up the fare to the next whole number.

Please Note: Your tour price includes gratuities on the main trip and optional extensions for local guides, drivers, and luggage porters that may assist you during the scheduled activities on your adventure. All tips are quoted in U.S. dollars; tips can be converted and paid in local currency or in U.S. dollars. Please do not use personal or traveler’s checks for tips.

14 ULN2017 07/24/2017 PREPARING FOR YOUR TRIP

Land Only Travelers If you plan on booking your own international flights or arranging with our air department to arrive/depart on an earlier/later date than standard for your program, airport transfers will NOT be included in your program price, unless otherwise noted. For eligible flights, transfers may be purchased separately, as an optional add-on, and are subject to availability. To be eligible, your flight(s) must meet the following requirements:

• You must fly into or fly home from the same airport as OAT travelers who purchased included airfare.

• Your flight(s) must arrive/depart on the same day that the group arrives or departs.

To learn more, or purchase airport transfers, please call our Traveler Support team at 1-800-221-0814.

Optional Tours Optional tours are additional add-on tours that allow you to personalize your adventure by tailoring it to your tastes and needs. And if you decide not to join an optional tour? Then you’ll have free time to relax or explore on your own—it’s about options, not obligations.

What You Need to Know • All optional tours are subject to change and availability.

• Optional tours that are reserved with your Trip Leader can be paid for using credit/debit cards only. We accept MasterCard and Visa credit cards; we can also take MasterCard or Visa debit cards as long as the card allows you to sign for purchases. (You won’t be able to enter a PIN.)

• To ensure that you are charged in U.S. dollars, your payment will be processed by our U.S. headquarters in Boston. This process can take up to three months, so we ask that you only use a card that will still be valid three months after your trip is over. The charge may appear on your credit card statement as being from Boston, MA or may be labeled as “OPT Boston”.

• Your Trip Leader will give you details on the optional tours while you’re on the trip. But if you’d like to look over descriptions of them earlier, you can do so at any time by referring to your Day-to-Day Itinerary (available online by signing into My Account at www.oattravel.com/myaccount).

07/24/2017 ULN2017 15 Optional Tours: Reserve Before You Go We strongly recommend that you reserve the following optional tours in advance. Unless otherwise noted, the deadline to do so is 45 days prior to your departure. Occasionally, space will be available for booking onsite, but this not guaranteed. Optional tours with OAT can only be purchased with a credit card (Visa or MasterCard) or a debit card with credit card functionality. Because our headquarters are in Boston, charges may appear to be from Boston or might be labeled as “OPT Boston” (depending on your credit card company).

Yunnan Cultural Performance & Dinner

Discover the 5,000-year-old tradition of Chinese folk dance updated with elements of modern dance choreography, and presented in a dazzling stage production. After dinner at a local restaurant, travelers on this optional tour will transfer to a theater to enjoy a performance (approximately 1 hour and 45 minutes) of an original ethnic dance musical featuring songs, music, costumes, and the dancing talents of various Yunnan ethnic minorities who left their villages to join this troupe. This grand fusion of song and dance should prove to be an entertaining evening of cultural insights.

This optional tour is offered during the Mystical Yunnan: Kunming, Dali & Lijiang trip extension. The cost is $70 per person.

Communications To ensure you are available during your trip to friends and relatives at home, you will receive two copies of your hotel list, including phone numbers, with your Final Documents. One copy is for you to bring, and one to leave behind with friends or relatives in case they need to contact you during the trip.

Cell Phones If you want to use your cell phone on the trip, check with your phone provider to see if your phone and service will work outside of the U.S. It may turn out to be cheaper to rent an international phone or buy a SIM card onsite. If you want to use a local SIM, just make certain your phone can accept one.

Calling Apps Another option is to use a smartphone app like Skype or FaceTime. These services are usually less expensive than making a traditional call, but you’ll need a Wi-Fi connection and the calls may count towards your phone plan’s data allowance. Many smartphones—and some tablets or laptops—come with one of these apps pre-installed or you can download them for free from the appropriate apps store.

16 ULN2017 07/24/2017 Calling Cards and 1-800 Numbers When calling the U.S. from a foreign country, a prepaid calling card can be useful because it circumvents unexpected charges from the hotel. Calling cards purchased locally are typically the best (less expensive, more likely to work with the local phones, etc.).

One reminder: Do not call U.S. 1-800 numbers outside the continental United States. This can result in costly long distance fees, since 1-800 numbers do not work outside the country.

How to Call Overseas When calling overseas from the U.S., dial 011 for international exchange, then the country code (indicated by a plus sign: +), and then the number. Note that foreign phone numbers may not have the same number of digits as U.S. numbers; even within a country the number of digits can vary depending on the city and if the phone is a land line or cell phone.

China: +86 Russia: +7

Mongolia: +976

07/24/2017 ULN2017 17 PACKING

Luggage Limits

MAIN TRIP LIMITS

Pieces per person One checked bag and one carry-on per person .

Weight restrictions Checked bag and carry-on combined weight: 33 lbs TOTAL . May bring up to 55 lbs total if using hotel’s left-luggage service .

Size Restrictions Standard airline size: checked luggage should not exceed 62 linear inches (length+ width + depth) and carry-on should not exceed 45 linear inches

Luggage Type Duffel bag or soft-sided suitcase . Please do not bring a hard-sided (clamshell) suitcase .

TRIP EXTENSION(S) LIMITS

China pre-trip extension: Same as the main trip .

Siberia post-trip extension: 44 lbs total (33 lbs checked and 11 lbs carry-on)

REMARKS/SUGGESTIONS

Luggage rules: Luggage rules and limits are set by governmental and airline policy . Enforcement of the rules may include spot checks or may be inconsistent . However one thing is the same across the board: If you are found to have oversized or overweight luggage, you will be subject to additional fees, to be assessed by—and paid to—the airline in question .

Luggage limits in Mongolia: Some of our flights within Mongolia have very strict luggage limits—33 lbs TOTAL, all luggage added together . However, your flights between China and Mongolia have a larger limit—55 lbs total . And if you are taking the post-trip extension in Siberia, then you also have to consider the flights to and from Russia, which have a limit of 44 lbs total .

So what does this mean for your adventure? If you are not taking the post-trip extension, then it means you may bring up to 55 lbs worth of luggage total; if you are taking the post-trip in Siberia then you can bring up to 44 lbs total . But you but if you do, there will be times during your trip that you must leave extra luggage behind at the hotel in Ulaanbaatar . Bring an extra bag—either as your carry-on for the international flight, or packed into your suitcase—that you can use to carry what you need for 3 to 4 days while the rest of your luggage is in Ulaanbaatar .

18 ULN2017 07/24/2017 Don’t Forget: • These luggage limits may change. If the airline(s) notify us of any changes, we will include an update in your Final Documents booklet.

• It’s a good idea to reconfirm baggage restrictions and fees directly with the airline a week or so prior to departure. For your convenience, we maintain a list of the toll-free numbers for the most common airlines on our website in the FAQ section.

• Baggage fees are not included in your trip price; they are payable directly to the airlines.

• The luggage limits above are based on your regional flights, which may be less than your international flights. Even if your international airline offers a larger weight limit, you will need to pack according to the lower restrictions.

Your Luggage

Checked Luggage One duffel bag or suitcase. Look for one with heavy nylon fabric, wrap-around handles, built- in wheels, and a heavy duty lockable zipper. Please do not bring a rigid (plastic shell) suitcase.

Carry-on Bag You are allowed one carry-on bag per person. We suggest a tote or small backpack that can be used as both a carry-on bag for your flight and to carry your daily necessities—water bottle, camera, etc—during your daily activities.

TIP: The popular wheeled carry-on bags often do not fit in local overhead compartments, particularly on our motor coaches and smaller aircraft. If you decide to bring a wheeled carry-on bag, be sure to include the wheels when you measure its dimensions. Or factor the space the wheels take up when selecting a carry-on.

A Small Additional Bag This small bag is a necessity for certain portions of your trip. It should have a luggage tag and a lock. You can use this smaller bag as your carry-on for the international flight or pack it into your main luggage. You’ll need it for those times when luggage storage is so limited that we must leave some luggage behind. (For example, for flights to/from the Southern Gobi on the main trip.)

At these times, we stow your main luggage in the Ulaanbaatar hotel, while you carry just what you need for 3 to 4 days in this small duffel. Then we’ll pick up our main luggage when we return. A waterproof bag is preferable, to protect your things from rain.

07/24/2017 ULN2017 19 Locks For flights that originate in the U.S., you can either use a TSA-approved lock or leave your luggage unlocked. Outside of the U.S. we strongly recommend locking your luggage as a theft-prevention measure.

Clothing Suggestions

Functional Tips As you will experience a wide range of temperatures and weather conditions, we suggest several layers of clothing. If you like to hand-wash your clothes, look for fabrics that will dry out overnight. You can buy clothing designed especially for travel, with features like wrinkle- resistant fabric or built-in sun protection.

• Footwear: You’ll be on your feet a lot during the trip, and walking over some rough and slippery surfaces. We recommend you wear sturdy walking shoes, light hiking boots, or similar supportive sports shoes that offer good traction.

Style Hints • Dress on our trip is functional and casual, consisting of basic pants or everyday skirts, shirts, and sportswear.

• Your dress should be somewhat conservative, to be respectful of the local, traditional culture.

What to Bring We have included suggestions from Trip Leaders and former travelers to help you pack. These lists are only jumping-off points—they offer recommendations based on experience, but not requirements. You may also want to consult the “Climate” chapter of this handbook.

Recommended Clothing ❑❑Shirts: A mixture of short and long-sleeved shirts in a breathable fabric, like cotton or cotton-blend. Polo shirts are more versatile than T-shirts.

❑❑Trousers and/or jeans: Comfortable and loose fitting is best. Avoid tight-fitting jeans for comfort and ease of movement.

❑❑Shoes and socks: Shoes should be comfortable walking or running shoes ❑❑Wide-brim sun hat or visor for sun protection ❑❑Light rain jacket/windbreaker with hood ❑❑Light cotton or wool sweater

20 ULN2017 07/24/2017 ❑❑Fleece jacket or heavy sweater for the mountains (Yes, even in summer. It gets chilly at night.)

❑❑Underwear and sleepwear ❑❑Optional: Swimsuit, in case a hotel has a whirlpool or pool

Seasonal Clothing Recommendations For June through August departures, add these items to your list: ❑❑Walking shorts: Cut long for modesty. Most likely you won’t want shorts for every day of the trip, but they can be useful in the warmest places, like the Gobi. Shorts are also useful this time of year for the optional extension in China.

Essential Items ❑❑Daily essentials: toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, hairbrush or comb, shaving items, deodorant, etc. Our hotels will provide the basics like soap and shampoo, but if you are sensitive to fragrances or new products, you may wish to bring your preferred brands. Most hotels do not provide a washcloth, so you may wish to pack one.

❑❑Spare eyeglasses/contact lenses, sunglasses ❑❑Sunscreen, SPF 15 or stronger ❑❑Insect repellent ❑❑Light folding umbrella ❑❑Moisturizer and sun-blocking lip balm ❑❑Pocket-size tissues ❑❑Moist towelettes and/or anti-bacterial “water-free” hand cleanser ❑❑Flashlight—the lighting in the camps can be dim. ❑❑Electrical transformer & plug adapters: see “A Word About Electricity” for details.

Medicines & First aid Gear ❑❑Your own prescription medicines ❑❑Travel first aid kit: Band-Aids, headache and pain relief, laxatives and anti-diarrhea tablets, something for upset stomach. Maybe a cold remedy, moleskin foot pads, antibiotic cream, or allergy medication.

07/24/2017 ULN2017 21 ❑❑Prescription antibiotic for gastrointestinal illness ❑❑Optional: A strong prescription pain medication for rare emergency purposes ❑❑Optional: Motion sickness medicine if you are susceptible ❑❑Optional for travelers on the Yunnan extension: Altitude sickness medication ❑❑Optional for travelers on the Yunnan extension: Anti-malarial medication—discuss with your doctor

Optional Gear ❑❑Travel alarm or travel watch with alarm ❑❑Lightweight binoculars ❑❑Basic sewing kit ❑❑Cold-water hand-wash laundry soap such as Woolite and plastic hang-up clothespins ❑❑Hair dryer ❑❑Reading materials ❑❑Travel journal/note pad and pens ❑❑Home address book ❑❑Photos or post cards from home ❑❑Small gifts for Home-Hosted visit(s) ❑❑Phrase book ❑❑Folding walking staff (or ski pole), sold in most camping stores. Useful when exploring hilly sites.

❑❑Pocket-size calculator for exchange rates ❑❑Inflatable seat cushion for bumpy roads

Electricity When traveling overseas, the voltage is usually different and the plugs might not be the same shape.

22 ULN2017 07/24/2017 Voltage Electricity in Mongolia, Russia, and China is 220 volts. In the U.S. it is 110 volts. Most of the things a traveler will want to plug in—battery chargers, MP3 players, tablets or computers— can run off both 110 and 220-240. But you should check the item or the owner’s guide first to confirm this before you plug it in. If you have something that needs 110 volts—like a shaver or a hairdryer—you can bring a transformer to change the current. (But transformers tend to burn out, so it might be better to leave whatever it is at home.)

Plugs The shape of plugs will vary from country to country, and sometimes even within a country depending on when that building was built. To plug something from the U.S. into a local socket you’ll need an adapter that fits between the plug and the socket. Because there are many different types of plugs in this region, it may be easier to purchase an all-in-one, universal adapter/converter combo. Versatile and lightweight, these can usually be found at your local electronics goods or hardware stores. Sometimes you can buy them at large retailers too, like Target or Walmart. If you forget to bring an adapter, you might also find them for sale at the airport when you arrive at your destination.

Different plug shapes are named by letters of the alphabet. Standard U.S. plugs are Type A and Type B. Here is the list of plugs for the countries on this trip:

China: A (same as the U.S.)

Mongolia: C or E

07/24/2017 ULN2017 23 Russia: C and F

Type C Type E Type A Type I

Availability A constant electricity supply cannot be guaranteed during overnight stays. Travelers dependent on electricity supply (as in the case of those with sleep apnea) should consider a different OAT adventure or ensure their apparatus has back-up battery power. We strongly recommend bringing a flashlight with you—the lighting in the camps can be dim.

24 ULN2017 07/24/2017 CLIMATE

Mongolia: Mongolia’s climate can be summed up in a few words: cold, dry, and windy (winter) or hot, dry, and windy (summer). Of course there are seasons when the temperatures vary, rain falls, and the wind stops, but since the country is completely landlocked, there is no nearby ocean to moderate the seasons. The result is a dramatic climate largely influenced by Mongolia’s two main topographical features—its mountains and its deserts.

Mongolia is a four-season country, with a spring, summer, fall, and winter. Spring is usually mid- or late-March through May. Summer runs until August. Fall is brief—September and October—with winter sometimes starting at the end of October, and sometimes holding out until November. Winter’s arrival depends on your location; just like in the U.S., it arrives earlier in the north and in the mountains.

Spring can be a tough season to predict because the weather is so changeable (freak snowstorms have been known to occur as late as May). Summer is the warmest time of year, and although summertime highs throughout the country tend to be in the 70s, high temperatures in the Gobi Desert can hit 100 degrees F. In Ulaanbaatar it can sometimes it can get up to the low 90s. Summer is also usually the rainiest season, bringing color and life to the steppes. Many parts of the country experience long daylight hours in the summer—in Ulaanbaatar sunset can be as late as 9 or 10 pm. Fall brings moderate temperatures and, in the north, changing colors on the trees. Winter is very cold, with frost and snow almost everywhere—even in the Gobi Desert.

Lake Kohvsgol, Mongolia: By the mountains, the winters are harsh and frequently below freezing. And even in the height of summer, it can be cool near the mountains, with temperatures ranging from the 60s to the 40s. On the shores of Lake Khovsgol, the winter can be just as harsh as in the mountains, but summer tends to be a bit more moderate as highs do get into the 70s. On the other hand, summer can be more rainy here than in other parts of the country. Despite being a desert, the Gobi is not always warm—the temperature drops sharply at night even after warm summer days. However, the daytime temperatures can be extremely high, especially in the summer.

Yunnan Province, China: This region is in southwest China, and borders Vietnam, Laos, and Burma. The climate here is semitropical, comparable to the Gulf Coast of Florida. Summers are very warm and humid. In fall temperatures are a bit lower, and usually the humidity has diminished significantly.

Siberia, Russia: Siberia is so synonymous with long, harsh winters that many people forget it transforms in the summer, with bright sunny days and highs in the 70s. Spring and fall are also nice, but brief—there may be snow as late as April or as early as October. In May and September the nighttime lows are often in the 40s, so even though the days may be pleasantly warm (in the 60s usually), a jacket or sweater is still recommended.

07/24/2017 ULN2017 25 Beijing, China: Beijing is considered to be in the North-Central region, where spring and autumn are pleasantly warm, and summer hot and humid. Rain falls year-round. Winters occasionally bring snow. Temperature-wise this region can be compared to the Northeast of the U.S., similar to New York City or Boston.

On this adventure, we’ll be visiting more than one climate zone, so you may need to pack for a couple types of weather. When not in the capital city Ulaanbaatar, we’ll be visiting places as diverse as the foothills of the Khogno Khaan Mountains, the shores of Lake Khovsgol, and the Gobi Desert.

TIP: Because of the unpredictability of the climate in Mongolia, is fairly common to experience a wider variation from the average temperature than in other countries. A good “rule of thumb” for Mongolia is to use the average highs and lows as a guideline, but to add/subtract at least 10 degrees either way. So for example, if you are traveling at a time of year that the average temperatures fall into the 70-40 degree range, be prepared for anything from 80-30 degrees.

Climate Charts & Online Forecast The following charts reflect the average climate as opposed to exact weather conditions. This means they serve only as general indicators of what can reasonably be expected. An extreme heat wave or cold snap could fall outside these ranges. As your departure approaches, we encourage you to go online to www.oattravel.com/myaccount for your 10-day forecast.

26 ULN2017 07/24/2017 Average Daily High/Low Temperatures (°F), Humidity & Monthly Rainfall

MONTH ULAANBAATAR, MONGOLIA GACHUUNT, MONGOLIA

Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) (inches) Humidity (avg) (inches) JAN 3 to -13 83 to 71 0 .1 6 to -22 55 0 .1 FEB 12 to -8 81 to 65 0 .2 17 to -15 51 0 .1 MAR 27 to 6 74 to 50 0 .2 32 to 1 48 0 .2 APR 44 to 23 66 to 40 0 .5 49 to 18 39 0 .6 MAY 59 to 37 64 to 37 0 .9 62 to 32 40 0 .8 JUN 68 to 48 73 to 43 2 .5 73 to 45 56 2 .4 JUL 71 to 53 78 to 50 3 .1 77 to 51 68 3 .2 AUG 68 to 50 80 to 49 3 .3 73 to 47 68 3 .1 SEP 58 to 38 76 to 446 1 .6 62 to 31 55 1 .7 OCT 43 to 23 75 to 48 0 .5 46 to 16 45 0 .5 NOV 21 to 3 79 to 60 0 .3 24 to -4 47 0 .3 DEC 7 to -8 83 to 72 0 .1 10 to -17 50 0 .1

MONTH LAKE KHOVSGOL, MONGOLIA DALANDZADAGAD, MONGOLIA

Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Humidity (avg) (inches) Humidity (avg) (inches) JAN 5 to -20 69 0 .2 16 to -7 65 0 .2 FEB 15 to -12 65 0 .2 28 to 1 59 0 .1 MAR 32 to 3 54 0 .1 41 to 16 47 0 .2 APR 48 to 21 43 0 .1 55 to 30 37 0 .2 MAY 61 to 32 42 0 .5 68 to 43 33 0 .3 JUN 70 to 46 52 7 .0 79 to 54 40 0 .5 JUL 73 to 50 64 3 .3 81 to 58 48 1 .7 AUG 71 to 46 67 2 .3 79 to 56 50 1 .5 SEP 61 to 32 58 0 .5 68 to 44 46 0 .5 OCT 46 to 16 56 0 .6 54 to 28 43 0 .0 NOV 24 to 0 61 0 .1 35 to 11 59 0 .3 DEC 9 to -13 67 0 .2 23 to 0 63 0 .1

07/24/2017 ULN2017 27 MONTH KUNMING, CHINA IRKUTSK, RUSSIA

Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) (inches) Humidity (am-pm) (inches) JAN 58 to 36 85 to 41 0 .4 9 to -8 86 to 77 0 .4 FEB 62 to 39 79 to 39 0 .5 19 to -4 85 to 65 0 .3 MAR 67 to 44 75 to 37 0 .7 33 to 10 85 to 55 0 .4 APR 73 to 52 77 to 39 0 .8 49 to 27 83 to 44 0 .6 MAY 74 to 59 82 to 52 3 .5 64 to 38 81 to 38 1 .2 JUN 74 to 63 88 to 68 6 .9 73 to 49 90 to 47 2 .6 JUL 74 to 63 91 to 72 8 .1 77 to 55 95 to 59 3 .8 AUG 74 to 62 92 to 68 8 .0 72 to 51 95 to 60 3 .2 SEP 71 to 59 92 to 67 5 .0 60 to 40 94 to 55 1 .8 OCT 67 to 54 90 to 62 3 .1 46 to 27 89 to 57 0 .8 NOV 62 to 46 90 to 56 1 .6 27 to 11 88 to 72 0 .6 DEC 57 to 38 89 to 48 0 .5 13 to -3 87 to 81 0 .6

MONTH BEIJING, CHINA

Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) (inches) JAN 34 to 17 52 to 33 0 .2 FEB 39 to 22 53 to 32 0 .2 MAR 52 to 33 60 to 32 0 .3 APR 67 to 47 63 to 33 0 .7 MAY 78 to 57 71 to 40 1 .3 JUN 85 to 66 79 to 47 3 .1 JUL 86 to 72 89 to 62 8 .8 AUG 85 to 69 90 to 63 6 .7 SEP 78 to 59 84 to 51 2 .3 OCT 66 to 47 76 to 47 0 .7 NOV 49 to 32 66 to 47 0 .4 DEC 37 to 22 57 to 42 0 .1

28 ULN2017 07/24/2017 ABOUT YOUR DESTINATIONS

OAT Trip Leaders: A World of Difference During your adventure you’ll be accompanied by one of our local, expert Trip Leaders. All are fluent in English and possess the skills, certification, and experience necessary to ensure an enriching adventure. As locals of the regions you’ll explore with them, our Trip Leaders provide the kind of firsthand knowledge and insight that make local history, culture, and wildlife come alive. Coupled with their unbridled enthusiasm, caring personalities, and ability to bring diverse groups of travelers together, our Trip Leaders ensure that your experience with OAT is one you’ll remember for a lifetime.

Culture & Points to Know

Your Departure Date: A Reminder Travelers who have booked their air with OAT: The departure date that shows on your invoice and other materials will most likely be the day before your international flight. This is because many flights to Asia leave in the early am hours—at 1 and 2am—but you’ll need to be at the airport earlier for check-in. Therefore you’ll be checking in before midnight, which is technically the day before. For example: If the flight to Asia leaves at 1:40am on May 2nd, you would want to arrive for check-in at 11pm on May 1st. You can confirm the date of your international flight by referring to your preliminary air itinerary.

Getting to Siberia Travelers taking the extension to Siberia should note that if the flight to Irkutsk is ever cancelled by the airlines, we would travel by train instead.

Cuisine in China Chinese food is one of the world’s great cuisines, and part of the joy of traveling to China is a chance to sample the diversity of real Chinese food. Each region has its own specialties and style, often taking advantage on local produce. (For example, in the wheat-growing North, noodles and steamed bread are more common than rice, which is grown in the South.)

Most days, our breakfasts are mostly western-style affairs that include coffee, eggs, toast, etc. But on some days a simple Chinese-style breakfast will be served instead. Lunch and dinner is served family style in local restaurants and hotel dining rooms. We gather around tables for a generous repast, passing dishes around on a large lazy Susan. Since there can be up to thirteen courses in a given sitting, there is usually something to please every palate! Most of our travelers find the food very good and quite different from the Chinese food they are used to at home.

Most restaurants can provide western utensils on request, and even small local places will have Chinese-style spoons (broad “scoopers” used for soup with dumplings). But chopsticks are the norm, and may be the only utensils provided when visiting a family home.

07/24/2017 ULN2017 29 It is extremely common in China for food to be served “family style”—large plates of food are brought out to the table, and placed on a central lazy Susan. Each person then helps themselves from the communal dish, putting what they want on their individual plate. This means that when dining on your own, you may be ordering dishes for the table, not individual a la carte meals. (You’ll know by the presence of a large lazy Susan in the middle of the table). Because meals out are typically with family or friends, the restaurant many not automatically provide serving utensils; if you prefer to use serving spoons/chopsticks please let your server know at the restaurant.

Cuisine in Mongolia Only a very small percentage of Mongolian land is arable, which means that few crops grow there. Most agriculture is based in livestock—cattle, goats, horses, and camels. The result is a cuisine that leans heavily on meats and dairy but is light on vegetables. Mutton, barley, yogurt, cheese, a few vegetables, and either noodles or rice are common ingredients that Mongolian cooks use to their advantage.

Some typical dishes include:

• Meat-filled dumplings—often described by the cooking method: Buuz are steamed, bansh are boiled, and khuushuur are fried.

• Arvain guril—a barley porridge made with cream and sugar

• Guriltai shul—chunky soup with onions, meat, and fried noodles

• Tsuivan—stew with cabbage, root vegetables, meat, and noodles

On special occasions, meat is cooked over hot stones. Two stone-cooked dishes of note are khorkhog, which is mutton cooked in a container or a can, and boodog, which is meat (usually goat) cooked from the inside out. Yes, you read that correctly—the hot stones are inserted inside the animal’s stomach cavity, and then left to cook the meat from the inside. Only an experienced cook should try to prepare boodog, because if left too long, the steam from the hot rocks can build up pressure and cause a goat explosion.

Along with meat, dairy products are also a mainstay of Mongolian cuisine. Butter and cheese is made from many types of milk—cows’ milk, goats’ milk, sheep milk, yaks’ milk, and even the milk of camels. Cheese may be in a form familiar to the West, or may be aaruul, dried curds. Butter, or urum, is similar to clotted cream. It may be served in tea, or it may be caramelized into khailmag. Milk even takes on an alcoholic edge with airag, which is fermented mare’s milk, and arkhi, which is a milk-based liquor. (With about 2% alcohol by volume, airag is closer to slightly spiked yogurt. Arkhi is stronger, usually about 10% ABV.)

Truth behind the stereotypes—Russia Despite the many years of closer understanding between the U.S. and Russia, many of the current stereotypes of Russian society are holdovers from the Cold War era. Although Russians (like many Europeans) may be critical of the U.S. government, this does not mean that

30 ULN2017 07/24/2017 Russians dislike the American people; in fact, surveys reveal that many Russians aspire to a lifestyle similar to their U.S. counterparts. Vodka, although still popular, is not usually drunk with a meal the way beer and wine are. And religion is making a steady comeback from the oppression of the Soviet years.

Shopping There may be scheduled visits to local shops during your adventure. There is no requirement to make a purchase during these stops, and any purchase made is a direct transaction with the shop in question, subject to the vendor’s terms of purchase. OAT is not responsible for purchases you make on your trip or for the shipment of your purchases.

Returns If you discover an issue with an item, you should contact the vendor directly and expect that any resolution will take longer than it would in the U.S. We recommend that you keep a copy of all your receipts, invoices, or contracts, along with the shop’s contact information. Keep in mind, local practice may vary from U.S. standards, so don’t assume that you have a certain number of days after the purchase to speak up or that you are guaranteed a refund.

Crafts & Souvenirs

China Throughout China, you’ll discover wonderful buys on a variety of gifts like chopsticks, signature seals (which are known as “chops”), cloisonné, Mao hats, and silk scarves. These goods—and much, much more—are available at local stores. You can pay with local currency or credit cards. Occasionally shops will take U.S. currency or traveler’s checks, but this is becoming more and more rare.

One thing to note about shopping in China is that bargaining is allowed (even expected) at open-air booths/street vendors, but at these types of businesses you must pay with cash only. Beware of counterfeit RMB given by street vendors as change—pay in exact change whenever possible, and you’ll avoid being cheated.

Mongolia Mongolia offers many fine craft items at good prices—cashmere, leather goods, traditional clothing, hats, musical instruments—these are just some of the items to be on the look out for while shopping in Mongolia. Generally you can pay with local currency only, although some businesses will take credit cards and occasionally you can use U.S. dollars (see the previous “Credit Cards” and “Currency” sections for details).

You can find lovely and unique antiques in Mongolia for reasonable prices, but be aware that there are export laws in place, so some items cannot leave the country. Make sure the shop understands that you’ll be taking the item out of the country and that they provide the correct documentation to do so.

07/24/2017 ULN2017 31 Russia Among the best buys in Russia are black caviar (sold in small sealed jars), the traditional Russian wooden nest of dolls (matryoshkas), hand-embroidered shirts and blouses, balalaikas, samovars, watches (Raketa brand and military watches), chess sets, pure wool scarves, lacquer boxes, hats, vodka, amber, malachite jewelry, porcelain and books. You’ll also find a variety of small Christmas and Easter gifts made by Russian craftsmen for sale throughout the year that make great unique presents for friends.

To bring back a little of Russia with you, you have some traditional items to choose from. The blue and white Russian porcelain Gzhel is used for vases, table settings, some delicate toys, and figurines. Nesting dolls are also widely available in St Petersburg, as well as Russian and Ukrainian style shirts with intricate embroidery. Palekh boxes (brightly colored and lacquered with native artwork) are on sale in better souvenir shops. Kiosks offer amber and silver jewelry, and some churches allow you to purchase Russian Orthodox religious items.

U.S. Customs Regulations & Shipping Charges For all things related to U.S. Customs, the ultimate authority is the U.S. Bureau of Customs & Border Protection. Their website, www.cbp.gov has the answers to the most frequently asked questions. Or you can call them at 1-877-227-5511.

The top three points to know are:

• At time of writing, your personal duty-free allowance is $800 for items brought with you. Items totaling more than $800 are subject to duty fees.

• Items shipped home are always subject to duty when received in the U.S. Even when the shop has offered to include shipping and duties in the price, this typically means shipping to the nearest customs facility and payment of the export duties—not door-to- door shipping or payment of the import duties. All additional duties or shipping charges would be your responsibility. Unless an item is small enough to send by parcel service (like FedEx), chances are you will need to arrange shipping or pick-up once the item is in the U.S. and will need to pay customs duties.

• It is illegal to import products made from endangered animal species. U.S. Customs & Border Protection will seize these items, as well as most furs, coral, tortoise shell, reptile skins, feathers, plants, and items made from animal skins.

32 ULN2017 07/24/2017 DEMOGRAPHICS & HISTORY

China

Facts & Figures • Area: 3,705,407 square miles

• Capital: Beijing

• Languages: Standard Chinese (Mandarin) is the official language; Yue (Cantonese), Wu (Shanghaiese), Minbei (Fuzhou), Minnan (Hokkien-Taiwanese) are also spoken, along with various Chinese dialects

• Ethnicity: Han Chinese 91.6%, Zhuang 1.3%, other (includes Hui, Manchu, Uighur, Miao, Yi, Tujia, Tibetan, Mongol, Dong, Buyei, Yao, Bai, Korean, Hani, Li, Kazakh, Dai and other nationalities) 7.1%

• Location: China is bordered by Afghanistan, Bhutan, Burma, India, Kazakhstan, North Korea, Kyrgyzstan, Laos, Mongolia, Nepal, Pakistan, Russia, Tajikistan, and Vietnam.

• Geography: The geography of China must be viewed in terms of its grand proportions. China’s vast area of nearly 4 million square miles ranks third behind Russia and Canada. The Himalayas on China’s border with India are the world’s tallest mountains. More than two-thirds of China’s land area is mountainous or desert.

• Population: 1,367,485,388 (estimate)

• Religions: Buddhist 18.2%, Christian 5.1%, Muslim 1.8%, folk religion 21.9%, Hindu < .1%, Jewish < .1%, other 0.7% (includes Daoist), unaffiliated 52.2%

• Time Zone: Officially all of China is on Beijing time, which is 12 hours ahead of EST. When it is 6am in Washington D.C., it is 6pm in China (add an hour for daylight saving time). Unofficially, residents in distant provinces may use a local time zone for everyday use and Beijing time for official purposes. Hong Kong is also on Beijing time.

National Holidays: China

In addition to the holidays listed below, holidays, please visit www.timeanddate. China celebrates a number of national com/holidays. holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such 01/01 New Year’s Day as the Chinese New Year, Spring Festival, Mid-Autumn Festival, and more. To find 05/01 Labor Day out if you will be traveling during these 10/01 National Day

Historical Overview Early History

07/24/2017 ULN2017 33 Archaeological records of a highly developed civilization in the area now known as China date back to around 4000 B.C., suggesting that the Chinese people have shared a common culture longer than any other people on earth. China’s first dynasty, the Shang, is believed to have been established around 1800 B.C. At that time, the country remained split into many feudal states. Although the King was recognized for his ritual role, power was dispersed among feudal lords, and warring between feudal states was common.

The Shang kings called themselves the “Sons of Heaven” and presided over a cult of animal and human sacrifices to ancestors and nature gods. Ancient writings tell of frequent invasions by nomads from the north, often referred to as “barbarians” (meaning anyone not of Chinese descent). However, the nomads always moved on after their conquests, and the dynastic rulers remained in power.

By 1500 B.C., the Chinese had already made great advancements in the areas of science and mathematics. They also were producing fine art, including jade and ceramic products and bronze castings. However, the majority of the Chinese people still made their living from a combination of hunting and agriculture. The peasants owned the land on which they farmed, but owed military service to the nobles. As in all agricultural societies, the family was the dominant social unit. Often, large extended families lived together under one roof, and groups of families living in the same geographical area sometimes adopted common surnames and formed clans.

The Classical Age

Around 400 B.C., a new class of learned men began to form, giving rise to what is sometimes called the Classic Age of Chinese thought. The most famous of these men was Confucius. Confucius asserted that social harmony depends on each individual understanding and acting in accordance with his or her station in life. His teachings would have a greater influence on China’s development over the next 2,000 years than perhaps any other man, as Confucianism was the official state teaching from 202 B.C. to A.D. 1911. This strict ethical system, more than anything else, provided the basis for the long-standing unity of the Chinese people and the relative stability of the dynastic system of government for nearly 40 centuries.

Another philosophy also rose to prominence in China around this time. Taoism promoted the concepts of inner peace and harmony with nature. Practitioners sought mystical knowledge through meditation. While Taoism never became an official state teaching, it was embraced by millions of Chinese as an alternative to the rigid precepts of Confucianism.

Around the 1st century B.C., Buddhism, which originated in India, found its way to China. Whereas Confucianism and Taoism were more or less ethical guides, Buddhism was a proper religion. To the follower of Buddha, life goes on in a series of reincarnations; it is a cycle of rebirth and suffering. The goal of life is to escape this cycle—to stop being born as a suffering individual with selfish desires. To do this, Buddhists follow what is called the “Eightfold Path”–a series of steps that lead to the blissful state of Nirvana. While Buddhism was not advanced as an official state teaching, it nevertheless flourished in China for centuries.

The Age of the Imperial Dynasties

34 ULN2017 07/24/2017 In 221 B.C., China’s first empire was established. Called Qin, it differed from past dynasties in that one emperor ruled over a unified China. The first emperor, Qin Shi Huang Di, centralized political power and standardized language, laws, weights, measures, and coinage. Unfortunately, he also suppressed learning and tried to destroy most religious texts. His dynasty lasted less than 20 years. Although specific Imperial dynasties came in and out of power, the structure of the Imperial dynastic system, with its administrative divisions and central bureaucracies, remained intact until the early part of the 20th century.

In 202 B.C., the Han rose to power. The next four centuries of Han rule were a time of great historical significance to the Chinese. The Han instituted the Mandarin Bureaucracy, a merit system by which local officials were selected based on their knowledge of the Confucian classics. They also advanced the teachings of Confucianism, with its strict adherence to the class system. Both of these measures remained in force for nearly 2,000 years. Also during this time, China’s first university was founded. A new emphasis on learning and education gave rise to an age of great scientific discovery and artistic accomplishment.

Over the next several centuries, life in China continued much as it had during the age of the Han. New dynasties rose to power, but the Imperial dynastic system, with its central bureaucracy and administrative divisions, remained intact. More importantly, foreign influences did not significantly alter the underlying culture. The people remained largely agricultural, and Buddhism, Confucianism, and Taoism remained the prevailing philosophical and ethical guides. However, a significant change occurred in the late 14th century, during the reign of the Mings. Trade with the west was introduced. At first, open trade with the west appeared to pose little threat to the Chinese way of life. But, over the next 300 years, a new commodity was introduced that would prove disastrous to Chinese culture: opium. By the late 19th century, opium addiction had severely damaged Chinese society and drained vast amounts of wealth overseas. This led to war with Britain, a chief source of the deadly drug. The Chinese, who had failed to keep pace with western arms technology, were soundly defeated and forced into a series of uneven treaties.

The Rise of the People’s Republic

By the dawn of the 20th century, China was wracked with internal rebellion and economic stagnation. A Western-influenced political leader named Sun Yet-sen convinced the Chinese to adopt a republican form of government in 1911, touching off a prolonged period of civil war. Then, in 1949, bolstered by the success of Russia following World War II, Communists rose to power and took control of the government, establishing the People’s Republic of China. The first 30 years of rule by the Communist Party were marked by cycles of failed economic policies, disunity, and political purges. In particular the 1960s and early 1970s saw a period of economic, political, and social change known as the Cultural Revolution.

Begun in 1966, the Cultural Revolution was described by Mao Zedong (the Chairman of the Communist Party) as a movement to counteract “liberal bourgeoisie” elements that wanted to return to capitalism. Through speeches and other propaganda, the Party leadership affiliated certain Chinese traditions with Western decadence; both were to be condemned and purged.

07/24/2017 ULN2017 35 Two key elements of the Cultural Revolution that would affect China for years were the mass relocation of urban population to rural labor camps and the creation of the Red Guards. Most were students who were encouraged to actively challenge cultural institutions, their teachers, and even their parents. The term “the Four Olds” (old customs, old culture, old habits, and old ideas) was introduced to sum up everything that a good revolutionary should avoid. Religious buildings were defaced, art smashed, intellectuals and teachers abused and imprisoned. Although the Cultural Revolution officially ended in 1969, most historians agree it continued until Mao’s death in 1976.

After Mao’s passing the backlash from the Cultural Revolution lead to the arrest of four influential Party leaders, called the Gang of Four (one of whom was Mao’s widow). The public began to turn away from the hard-line communism that had dominated China, and in the mid-1980s, the government adopted far-reaching economic reforms with market-oriented incentives. Throughout the 1980s and 1990s reforms were slowly introduced, and in 2003, the Party even changed its membership rules to include a new type of member, known as “red capitalists”. Nonetheless, modern China is still far from being an openly democratic or capitalist society; today they name their new political system “socialism with Chinese characteristics.”

Mongolia

Facts & Figures • Area: 603,909 square miles

• Capital: Ulaanbaatar

• Languages: Khalkha Mongol 90%, Turkic, and Russian are spoken.

• Ethnicity: Khalkh 81.9%, Kazak 3.8%, Dorvod 2.7%, Bayad 2.1%, Buryat-Bouriates 1.7%, Zakhchin 1.2%, Dariganga 1%, Uriankhai 1%, other 4.6%

• Location: Mongolia is bordered by Russia and China.

• Geography: Mongolia encompasses a wide range of terrain, with mountains, grassy steppes, and vast flat desert. Most of the north and west of the country is mountainous or hilly grasslands; the Gobi Desert takes up most of the south and the east. The country is land-locked, and although there are lakes and streams in certain areas, the combination of the terrain and low water supply means that a very small percent of the land is arable.

• Population: 3,031,330

• Religion: Buddhist 53%, Muslim 3%, Christian 2.2%, Shamanist 2.9%, other 0.4%, none 38.6%

• Time Zone: Mongolia observes Ulaanbaatar Time, twelve hours ahead of U.S. EST. When it is 6am in Washington D.C., it is 6pm in Ulaanbaatar.

36 ULN2017 07/24/2017 National Holidays: Mongolia

In addition to the holidays listed below, 07/11 Naadam Holiday (Day 1) Mongolia celebrates a number of national 07/12 Naadam Holiday (Day 2) holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as Easter . To find out if you will be 07/13 Naadam Holiday (Day 3) traveling during these holidays, please visit www.timeanddate.com/holidays. 07/14 Naadam Holiday (Day 4)

01/01 New Year’s Day 07/15 Naadam Holiday (Day 5)

03/08 International Women’s Day 12/29 Independence Day

Historical Overview of Mongolia Prehistory

Human habitation in Mongolia stretches back a surprisingly long time. The earliest traces date from 800,000 years ago, when Homo erectus lived in caves in the southwest. Modern man (Homo sapiens) arrived much later—only 40,000 years ago. These early ancestors left striking cave paintings, carvings out of ivory and bone, and stone tools in their cave dwellings. Over time, they began to leave the caves and settle in agricultural villages. But it was in the Copper and Bronze Ages that a key development of Mongolian culture came into being—horseback riding. With this development many of the local tribes turned away from farming, and took up a nomadic existence instead. As a result, horses, horseback riding, and a nomadic way of life were to become hallmarks of Mongolian culture for thousands of years.

Early History

For the next 2,000-3,000 years, the Mongolian tribes continued to be generally independent of each other. Although some groups—the Okunev, the Andronovo, and the Karasuk—seem to have developed large spheres of influence, they are typically thought of as cultures, not cohesive governments. It wasn’t until 209 B.C. that an official confederation of tribes emerged under a single head—King Modu Chanyu of the Xiongnu tribe. His military force soon emerged as the greatest threat to the Chinese kingdom, and prompted the Chinese emperor to build a very large defensive wall. (Today it’s known as the Great Wall of China.)

The Wall may have helped keep the raiders out, but it didn’t stop the rise of the Xiongnu Dynasty within Mongolia. From 209 B.C. to 93 A.D. they ran an empire that was larger than modern-day Mongolia. Subsequent dynasties, such as the Xianbei (93-234 A.D.), the Rouran (330-555), and the Gokturks (555-745) continued to enlarge the empire’s holdings. It was most likely the Rouran who were the first to use the words “Khan” as a title meaning “king” and “Khagan” meaning “emperor”.

The Age of the Khaganates

The use of two titles reflects the feudal nature of the society at the time—as no one man (or woman, there were “Khatun”)—could hold such a large territory, each region or tribe tended to have it’s own leader, equivalent in rank to a king. The Khagan, or emperor, was typically

07/24/2017 ULN2017 37 the strongest of these kings, and the one who would lead the others in military campaigns. This arrangement worked well as long as the different kings were loyal, or if one clearly dominated the others militarily. But when more than one strong king rose to power, the title of emperor was up for grabs. Such a situation occurred in 745, when the Uyghur, Karluk, and Basmyl tribes all rebelled against the ruling Gokturks. In the resulting power vacuum, the Uyghurs dominated the other tribes, and formed their own empire.

In fact, the Uyghurs were so successful and powerful that in 756 they formed an alliance with the Tang Dynasty in China. Although ultimately defeated by the Kyrgyz (the ancestors of modern-day Kyrgyzstan), the Uyghurs left a strong cultural legacy—it was their script that was adopted as the official writing of Mongolia by Genghis Khan in the 13th century.

Genghis, or How to Rule a Large Chunk of the World

With the decline of the Uyghurs, a period of uncertainty, weak leadership, and outside influence set in. The Mongolian empire splintered, and it wasn’t until the rise of a chieftain named Temujin that the core of the old empire was reunited. In 1206, he took the title Genghis Khan, meaning King Genghis. (Despite his power, he wasn’t actually called a Khagan, or emperor, until after his death.)

As one of the most famed and feared names in history, Genghis had quite a life. If the records left after his death are to be believed, he started life as a nobleman’s son, but when his father was murdered by poison, he and his family lived in poverty. At age 9, he was engaged to Borte (later his chief wife), at age 10, he killed his half-brother in what might have been an accident, and at age 16, he and Borte were married. Not one to settle down to a quiet life, Genghis began to unite the Mongol tribes, survived an assignation plot, rescued Borte (she had been kidnapped by a rival tribe), and executed his sworn “blood brother” Jumaka—all before turning 39.

Yet despite the excitement of his early life, it wasn’t until his 40s that Genghis really came into his own. After his election to the title of Khan in 1206—at the age of 44—he began a remarkable series of military campaigns across Asia and Europe. The result was the largest continuous land empire that has ever existed in human history. At its height, the Mongol Empire covered roughly 22% of the world’s landmass. Yet when the Great Khan died in 1227, he was buried in an unmarked grave, in accordance with the customs of his tribe.

After the Empire

The effects of the Mongol empire and the true personality of its most famous leader are still hotly debated today. Some historians, such as R.J. Rummel, have estimated that 30 million people were killed under the Mongols. They point to the fierce and frightening reputation of the Mongol hoards as proof of Genghis’ bloodthirsty nature. Other historians have dubbed the era the “Pax Mongolica” because of the stabilizing effect the empire had on the conquered territories. These historians point to the increased trade on the Silk Road, the religious tolerance of the Mongol court, and Genghis’ policy of promoting people based on merit instead of birth as signs of an enlightened reign.

38 ULN2017 07/24/2017 In any case, both groups seem to agree that empire was largely based on the larger-than-life personality of the Khan himself. So it would be logical to presume that his death posed a huge threat the empire’s survival. Yet surprisingly, the Mongol Empire actually gained lands and fame under Genghis’ immediate descendents. The most notable of these successors was his grandson Kublai Khan, who founded the Yuan Dynasty in China. (It was his court that Marco Polo visited in the 1200s, and inspired the poem “Kubla Khan” by Samuel Taylor Coleridge.) It wasn’t until the fall of the Yuan in 1368 that the Mongol Empire collapsed back into smaller states.

For the next 200-300 years, the tribes of Mongolia would follow a pattern of fighting amongst themselves, uniting briefly under a strong leader, and then retuning to disunion. The many rivalries created some interesting leaders, such as the warrior Esen Taishi and Queen Mandukhai the Wise. (The queen’s story sounds like a soap opera: After her first husband’s death she adopted the last remaining heir of Genghis Khan, successfully upheld his claim to the throne in battle, and eventually married him when he turned 19. They had 10 children together despite her tendency to go to war while pregnant.) The constant shifts in power only ended with the conquest of Mongolia by the Chinese Qing Dynasty in the 17th century.

Modern History

In many ways, the Qing simply added new layers to the existing Mongol hierarchy. The Mongol nobles still attended on the Mongol emperor, who in turn was a vassal of the Qing emperor. The biggest change was at the bottom level of society—the Chinese assigned different levels of serfdom to the Mongol peasants. The Chinese also divided Mongolia into different areas of administrative control; this is where the terms “Inner Mongolia” and “Outer Mongolia” come from.

When the Qing Dynasty collapsed in 1911, Mongolia turned to Imperial Russia for protection and recognition as an independent state. Following the Russian Revolution of 1917, China reasserted its claim; ultimately Outer Mongolia won its independence in 1921 with Soviet backing. A communist regime was installed in 1924, and remained in power until a peaceful democratic revolution in 1990. (Inner Mongolia remained a part of China. Today Inner Mongolia is still considered an official part of China, but not quite Chinese—like Tibet or Hong Kong.)

Russia

Facts & Figures • Area: 6,601,670 square miles, the largest country on Earth

• Capital: Moscow

• Language: Russian.

07/24/2017 ULN2017 39 • Location: Russia spans two continents, with the part west of the Urals considered to be in Europe while the rest of the country is in Asia. On its west, Russia is bordered by Norway, Finland, Estonia, Latvia, Belarus, Ukraine, and the Black Sea. On the south, the Russian border touches Georgia, Azerbaijan, the Caspian Sea, Kazakhstan, Mongolia, and China. The North Pacific Ocean defines Russia’s eastern edge, and the Arctic Ocean lies to Russia’s north.

• Population: 142,423,773 (estimate)

• Religion: Russian Orthodox 15-20%, Muslim 10-15%, other Christian 2%

• Time zone: From April through most of September, Moscow and St. Petersburg are 8 hours ahead of U.S. Eastern Daylight Time, 11 hours ahead of U.S. Pacific Daylight Time.

National Holidays: Russia

In addition to the holidays listed below, 02/23 Defender of the Fatherland Day Russia celebrates a number of national 03/08 International Women’s Day holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as New Year Holiday Week. To find out if 04/16 Orthodox Easter you will be traveling during these holidays, please visit www.timeanddate.com/ 05/01 Labor Day holidays. 05/09 Victory Day 01/01 New Year’s Day 06/12 Russia Day 01/07 Orthodox Christmas Day 11/04 Unity Day

Historical Overview of Russia Early History

The term “Rhos”, or “Rus”, first came to be applied to the Varangians and later also to the Slavs who peopled the region currently known as Russia in the 10th to 11th centuries. Like many other parts of Eurasia, these territories were overrun by the Mongol invaders, who formed the state of Golden Horde which would pillage the Russian principalities for over three centuries. Later known as the Tatars, they ruled the southern and central expanses of present- day Russia, while the territories of present-day Ukraine and Belarus were incorporated into the Grand Duchy of Lithuania and Poland, thus dividing the Russian people in the north from the Belarusians and Ukrainians in the west. This long-lasting nomadic rule retarded the country’s economic and social development.

Muscovy

While still under the domain of the Mongols and with their connivance, the duchy of Moscow began to assert its influence in Western Russia in the early 14th century. Assisted by the Russian Orthodox Church, Muscovy inflicted a defeat on the Mongols in the Battle of Kulikovo

40 ULN2017 07/24/2017 (1389). Ivan the Great (ruled 1456-1505) eventually tossed off the control of the invaders, consolidated surrounding areas under Moscow’s dominion and first took the title “grand duke of all the Russias”.

In the beginning of the 16th century the Russian state set the national goal to return all Russian territories lost as a result of the Mongolian invasion and to protect the southern borderland against attacks of Crimean Tatars and other Turkic peoples.

In 1547, Ivan the Terrible was officially crowned the first Tsar of Russia. During his long reign, Ivan annexed the Muslim polities along the Volga River and transformed Russia into a multiethnic and multiconfessional state. By the end of the century, Russian Cossacks established the first settlements in Western Siberia. The colonization of the Asian territories was largely peaceful, in sharp contrast to the build-up of other colonial empires of the time.

Imperial Russia

Peter the Great (ruled in 1689-1725) after defeating Sweden in the Great Northern War, founded a new capital, Saint Petersburg. Peter succeeded in bringing ideas and culture from Western Europe to a severely underdeveloped Russia. After his reforms, Russia emerged as a major European power.

Catherine the Great, ruling from 1762 to 1796, continued efforts at establishing Russia as one of the great powers of Europe. In 1812, having gathered nearly half a million soldiers from France, as well as from all of its conquered states in Europe, Napoleon invaded Russia but, after taking Moscow, was forced to retreat back to Europe. Almost 90% of the invading forces died as a result of on-going battles with the Russian army, guerillas and winter weather. The Russian armies ended their pursuit of the enemy by taking his capital, Paris.

The officers of the Napoleonic wars brought back to Russia the ideas of liberalism and even attempted to curtail the tsar’s powers during the abortive Decembrist revolt (1825), which was followed by several decades of political repression. Another result of the Napoleonic wars was the incorporation of Bessarabia, Finland, and Congress Poland into the Russian Empire.

The perseverence of Russian serfdom and the conservative policies of Nicholas I of Russia impeded the development of Imperial Russia in the mid-19th century. As a result, the country was defeated in the Crimean War, 1853–1856, by an alliance of major European powers, including Britain, France, Ottoman Empire, and Piedmont-Sardinia. Nicholas’s successor Alexander II (1855–1881) was forced to undertake a series of comprehensive reforms and issued a decree abolishing serfdom in 1861. The Great Reforms of Alexander’s reign spurred increasingly rapid capitalist development and Sergei Witte’s attempts at industrialization.

The failure of agrarian reforms and suppression of the growing liberal intelligentsia were continuing problems however. Repeated devastating defeats of the Russian army in the Russo-Japanese War and World War I and the resultant deterioration of the economy led to widespread rioting in the major cities of the Russian Empire and to the overthrow in 1917 of the Romanovs.

07/24/2017 ULN2017 41 At the close of the Russian Revolution of 1917, a Marxist political faction called the Bolsheviks seized power in Petrograd and Moscow under the leadership of Vladimir Lenin. The Bolsheviks changed their name to the Communist Party. A bloody civil war ensued, pitting the Bolsheviks’ Red Army against a loose confederation of anti-socialist monarchist and bourgeois forces known as the White Army. The Red Army triumphed, and the Soviet Union was formed in 1922.

Russia as part of the Soviet Union

The Soviet Union was meant to be a transnational worker’s state free from nationalism. The concept of Russia as a separate national entity was therefore not emphasized in the early Soviet Union. Although Russian institutions and cities certainly remained dominant, many non-Russians participated in the new government at all levels. One of these was a Georgian named Joseph Stalin. A brief power struggle ensued after Lenin’s death in 1924. Stalin gradually eroded the various checks and balances which had been designed into the Soviet political system and assumed dictatorial power by the end of the decade. Leon Trotsky and almost all other “Old Bolsheviks” from the time of the Revolution were killed or exiled. As the 1930s began, Stalin launched the Great Purges, a massive series of political repressions. Millions of people whom Stalin and local authorities suspected of being a threat to their power were executed or exiled to Gulag labor camps in remote areas of Siberia.

Stalin forced rapid industrialization of the largely rural country and collectivization of its agriculture. Most economic output was immediately diverted to establishing heavy industry. Civilian industry was modernized and heavy weapon factories were established. The plan worked, in some sense, as the Soviet Union successfully transformed from an agrarian economy to a major industrial powerhouse in an unbelievably short span of time, but widespread misery and famine ensued for many millions of people as a result of the severe economic upheaval.

In 1936 the USSR was in strong opposition to Nazi Germany, and supported the republicans in Spain who struggled against German and Italian troops. However, in 1938 Germany and the other major European powers signed the Munich treaty. Germany then divided Czechoslovakia with Poland. The Soviet government, afraid of a German attack on the USSR, began diplomatic maneuvers. In 1939 after Poland’s refusal to participate in any measures of collective deterrence the USSR signed the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact with Nazi Germany which in effect stated that each country would occupy a portion of Poland, which they did, thus obliterating the independent state of Poland.

In June 17, 1940, the Red Army occupied the whole territory of Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania, and installed new, pro-Soviet governments in all three countries. Following elections, in which only pro-communist candidates were allowed to run, the newly elected parliaments of the three countries formally applied to join USSR in August 1940.

42 ULN2017 07/24/2017 Germany and its allies invaded the Soviet Union in 1941. Although the Wehrmacht had considerable success in the early stages of the campaign, they suffered defeat when they reached the outskirts of Moscow. The Red Army then stopped the Nazi offensive at the Battle of Stalingrad in 1943, which became the decisive turning point for Germany’s fortunes in the war. The Soviets drove through Eastern Europe and captured Berlin before Germany surrendered in 1945. During the war the Soviet Union lost more than 27 million citizens (including eighteen million civilians).

Although ravaged by the war, the Soviet Union emerged from the conflict as an acknowledged superpower. The Red Army occupied Eastern Europe after the war, including the eastern half of Germany. Stalin installed loyal communist governments in these satellite states.

The Soviet Union consolidated its hold on Eastern Europe. The United States helped the Western European countries establish democracies, and both countries sought to achieve economic, political, and ideological dominance over the Third World. The ensuing struggle became known as the Cold War. Stalin died in early 1953 presumably without leaving any instructions for the selection of a successor. His closest associates officially decided to rule the Soviet Union jointly, but the secret police chief Lavrenty Beria appeared poised to seize dictatorial control. General Secretary Nikita Khrushchev and other leading politicians organized an anti-Beria alliance and staged a coup d’état. Beria was arrested in June of 1953 and executed later that year; Khrushchev became the undisputed leader of the USSR.

Under Khrushchev, the Soviet Union launched the world’s first artificial satellite, Sputni 1, and the Soviet cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin became the first person to orbit the Earth. Khrushchev’s reforms in agriculture and administration, however, were generally unproductive, and foreign policy toward China and the United States suffered reverses, notably the Cuban Missile Crisis, when he began installing nuclear missiles in Cuba (after the United States installed Jupiter missiles in Turkey which nearly provoked a war with the Soviet Union).

Following the ousting of Khrushchev, another period of rule by collective leadership ensued, lasting until Leonid Brezhnev established himself in the early 1970s as the pre-eminent figure in Soviet political life. Brezhnev is frequently derided by historians for stagnating the development of the Soviet Union. In contrast to the revolutionary spirit that accompanied the birth of the Soviet Union, the prevailing mood of the Soviet leadership at the time of Brezhnev’s death in 1982 was one of aversion to change.

In the mid 1980s, the reform-minded Mikhail Gorbachev came to power. He introduced the landmark policies of glasnost (openness) and perestroika (restructuring), in an attempt to modernize Soviet communism. Glasnost meant that the harsh restrictions on free speech that had characterized most of the Soviet Union’s existence were removed, and open political discourse and criticism of the government became possible again. Perestroika meant sweeping economic reforms designed to decentralize the planning of the Soviet economy. However, his initiatives provoked strong resentment amongst conservative elements of the government, and an unsuccessful military coup that attempted to remove Gorbachev from power instead led to

07/24/2017 ULN2017 43 the collapse of the Soviet Union. Boris Yeltsin came to power and declared the end of exclusive Communist rule. The USSR splintered into fifteen independent republics, and was officially dissolved in December of 1991.

Post-Soviet Russia

Prior to the dissolution of the Soviet Union, Boris Yeltsin had been elected President of Russia in June 1991 in the first direct presidential election in Russian history. After the disintegration of the USSR, the Russian economy went through a crisis. Russia took up the responsibility for settling the USSR’s external debts, even though its population made up just half of the population of the USSR at the time of its dissolution. The largest state enterprises (petroleum, metallurgy, and the like) were controversially privatized for the small sum of $US 600 million, far less than they were worth, while the majority of population plunged into poverty.

Yeltsin disbanded the Supreme Soviet and the Congress of People’s Deputies by decree, which was illegal under the constitution. On the same day there was a military showdown, the Russian constitutional crisis of 1993. With military help, Yeltsin held control. The conflict resulted in a number of civilian casualties, but was resolved in Yeltsin’s favor. Elections were held and the current Constitution of the Russian Federation was adopted on December 12, 1993.

Vladimir Putin was elected in 2000. Although President Putin is still the most popular Russian politician, with a 70% approval rating, his policies raised serious concerns about civil society and human rights in Russia. The West and particularly the United States expressed growing worries about the state control of the Russian media through Kremlin-friendly companies, government influence on elections, and law enforcement abuses.

At the same time, high oil prices and growing internal demand boosted Russian economic growth, stimulating significant economic expansion abroad and helping to finance increased military spending. Putin’s presidency has shown improvements in the Russian standard of living, as opposed to the 1990s. Even with these economic improvements, the government is criticized for lack of will to fight wide-spread crime and corruption and to renovate deteriorated urban infrastructure throughout the country. Despite the economic distress and decreased military funding following the fall of the Soviet Union, the country retains its large weapons and especially nuclear weapons arsenal.

In March of 2008 Russian Dmitry Medvedev was chosen as the President of Russia. During this period, Vladimir Putin served as Prime Minister. In March of 2012, Putin was elected to a third term as president.

44 ULN2017 07/24/2017 RESOURCES

Suggested Readings

Siberia The Shaman’s Coat, A Native History of Siberia by Anna Reid (History) Part history, part anthropology, and part travelogue, Reid’s book follows her trip to Siberia to discover and interview members of the various aboriginal peoples—the Khant, Buryat, Tuvans, Sakha, Ainu and Chukchi—who live there.

In Siberia by Colin Thubron (Travel Narrative) A classic account of a trans-continental long haul (about 15,000 miles) across Siberia, part of which was done on the Trans-Siberian railway.

Tent Life in Siberia by George Kennan (Exploration) Would you leave San Francisco for a job in Siberia? George Kennan did just that—exploring Siberia in 1865 with the hopes of being able to establish a telegraph line there. In the end, the people and landscapes of Siberia seem to have interested Kennan more than the telegraph line…luckily for us.

Siberia, A Cultural History by Anthony Haywood (History) This recent volume is a useful and reliable history of Siberia with chapters on specific locations such as Irkutsk and Lake Baikal.

China Riding the Iron Rooster by Paul Theroux (Travel Narrative) Acclaimed travel writer Paul Theroux’s vivid account of his journey through China by rail.

The Good Earth by Pearl Buck (Literature) A modern classic that won the Pulitzer Prize in 1931. Drawing heavily on her personal experience as a young newlywed in rural China, it is the plainly told story of a poor farmer and his stalwart wife. The book captures the daily life of China’s poorest people.

The Great Wall, China Against the World, 1000 BC - 2000 AD by Julia Lovell (History) Everything you ever wanted to know about the Great Wall. And if you are interested in images of the Wall, consider The Great Wall, From Beginning to End by Michael Yamashita and William Lindesay (History/Photography) Lindesay’s informative text accompanies 160 photographs by Yamashita, who spent a year photographing along the 4,000-mile expanse for National Geographic.

The River at the Center of the World by Simon Winchester (Travel Narrative) In this wide-ranging overview of the Yangtze veteran journalist Simon Winchester travels upstream into the heartland of China. An excellent introduction to the great river that is at the symbolic and literal heart of China.

07/24/2017 ULN2017 45 Before the Deluge, The Vanishing World of the Yangtze’s Three Gorges by Deirdre Chetham (Culture) Chetham offers a detailed glimpse into the daily life along the river, its spectacular natural beauty and checkered history. She also considers the efforts to tame the river, culminating with the massive Three Gorges dam. Although the book was written before the dam was completed, it is still considered one of the better books on the subject.

China Road by Rob Gifford (Travel Narrative) On the road from Shanghai west to the Gobi and China’s distant border with Kazakhstan, Gifford writes with warmth and affection of his many encounters along fabled Route 312 with fellow travelers, truckers, and ordinary folk.

Daughter of China: A True Story of Love and Betrayal by Meihong Xu and Larry Engelmann (Biography). The true account of a Chinese woman trained as an elite member of the PLA, denounced as a spy by the Communist government for her love of an American professor.

Death of a Red Heroine by Qui Xiaolong (Mystery) Marvelously evocative of Shanghai and China’s transition towards a market economy in the 1990’s, this award-winning debut of Inspector Chen of the Shanghai police is also a real page-turner.

Empress Orchid by Anchee Min (Fiction) A novel of the glorious, decadent last days of 19th- Century Imperial China. Min combines her tale of a young girl from the provinces who marries an emperor with a lovingly re-created portrait of life in the Forbidden City. Pearl Buck told a much more romanticized tale of the same remarkable woman in Imperial Woman.

Mao Zedong by Jonathan Spence (Biography) A masterful short biography in the “Penguin Lives” series, this text by Chinese historian Jonathan Spence tracks the life of the enigmatic Chinese ruler from his provincial upbringing to his powerful reign.

The Haunted Monastery by Robert Van Gulik (Mystery) One of a series of historical mysteries, featuring a Tang-era Chinese magistrate that are taken from the tradition of Chinese suspense novels. Apart from the pleasure of the elaborate plots, the books are rich in details of court and daily life in ancient China.

Wild Swans, Three Daughters of China by Jung Chang (Biography) A riveting tale of three generations spanning the end of Old China, Mao’s regime and the Japanese occupation. Chang chronicles the enormous changes in China since 1929 through her family’s story, which includes arrest during the Cultural Revolution, exile to the Sichuan wilderness and coming to terms with the bewildering state of China today.

China in Ten Words by Yu Hua (Culture) Ten essays on wide-ranging aspects of Chinese culture, such as economics, history, and politics, each summed up by one word or phrase like “leader” or “revolution”.

Postcards from Tomorrow Square: Reports from China by James Fallows (Culture) Originally a series of articles for Atlantic Monthly, each chapter can be read as a stand-alone piece or as part of a whole. The same author has also written China Airborne, which focuses on China’s aviation industry as a way of understanding the modernization of China.

46 ULN2017 07/24/2017 Midnight in Peking by Paul French (True Crime) When a pretty Englishwoman is murdered on the eve of war in 1937, will the detectives on the case be able to solve the crime before the Japanese invade? It sounds like a mystery novel, but in fact is a historical case.

Leaving Mother Lake by Yang Erche Namu and Christine Mathieu (Biography/Memoir) In this international bestseller Namu recounts her childhood amoung the Mosuo people, a matriarchal tribe that lives in southwestern China. Recongnized early for her singing ability, Namu left the tribe for the big city and a possible musical career, but not without experienceing homesickness and culture shock—in her own country. An interesting insider’s look at a little- known ethnic minority in China.

How Was China? by Dodie Johnston (Travel Narrative) Looking for a new adventure in retirement, Dodie sets off to China to teach English in a women’s college. In this book, she humorously captures the local culture and tells her story of navigating life in China, as well as the stories of people she’s met along the way.

Mongolia Hearing Birds Fly by Louisa Waugh (Travel Narrative) A charming look back at her year teaching English in a Mongolian village. Winner of the 2004 Ondaatje Prize, which is awarded by the Royal Society of Literature for a work that evokes “spirit of place”.

Khubilai Khan’s Lost Fleet: In Search of a Legendary Armada by James P. Delgado (History) How could a fleet of 700 ships, owned by the most powerful empire on earth, be lost in only 15 years? Archeologist Delgado joins with a Japanese dive team to try to answer that very question. But first they must locate the lost fleet, which most historians consider nothing more than a legend.

The Secret History of the Mongol Queens by Jack Weatherford (History) An inventive look at the female descendants of the Great Khan by a professor of anthropology at Macalester College. A good source for the full story of Queen Mandukhai the Wise.

Genghis Khan and the Making of the Modern World by Jack Weatherford (History) An in depth look on how this iconic and legendary figure helped shape the modern world in such a short span of time. (Weatherford has been awarded the Order of the Polar Star, which is Mongolia’s highest national award.)

Mongolia, Travels in the Untamed Land by Jasper Becker (Travel Narrative) Originally published in 1992, this new edition continues to inspire with its wide-ranging descriptions of Becker’s journey into Mongolia after the fall of the Soviet Union. (As a British journalist based in Beijing, Becker was one of the first Westerners allowed into the country after the collapse of communism.)

Modern Mongolia, From Khans to Commissars to Capitalists by Morris Rossabi (Economics/History) A detailed, critical, and scholarly look at Mongolia’s dramatic shift from communism to capitalism after the collapse of the Soviet Union. The author is a professor of history at the City University of New York, and has also written a book on Kublai Khan.

07/24/2017 ULN2017 47 Women of Mongolia by Martha Avery (Culture) An interesting mix of written word and photography, this book pairs Avery’s interviews of Mongolian women with lovely black-and- white photos of the women themselves. The book was originally published in the 1990s, so it my not be in stock at the local bookstore, but should be available online or by special order.

Wolf Totem by Jiang Rong (Literature) This novel tells the story of a Chinese student who is sent to Inner Mongolia during the Cultural Revolution, where he develops a special connection with the Mongolian wolf. Although set in Inner Mongolia (not Mongolia proper), the novel is based on the author’s real-life experiences during the 1970s, and gives a strong sense of Mongolian culture and the nomadic life.

Russia Among the Russians by Colin Thubron (Travel Narrative) The marvelous account of a 10,000- mile journey by car from St. Petersburg and the Baltic States south to Georgia and Armenia in 1981. A gifted writer and intrepid traveler, Thubron grapples with the complex Russian identity in this lyrical book.

Anna Karenina by Leo Tolstoy (Literature) Tolstoy’s tragic love story of the beautiful, but married Anna, and her passionate affair with the dashing Count Vronsky. Any version is good, but the one translated by Larissa Volokhonsky and Richa Pevear is especially acclaimed.

The Madonnas of Leningrad by Debra Dean (Fiction) When Marina was young she was a tour guide for the world-renown Hermitage Museum…but how could both she and the artworks she loved survive when her city is besieged by the Nazis?

Peter the Great, His Life, and World; The Romanovs, The Final Chapter; and Nicholas and Alexandra by Robert Massie (Biography/History) Three important works by a Pulitzer Prize-winning, best-selling expert on the Russian Imperial family. Massie portrays a giant of history in Peter the Great; unfolds the mystery of what might be the remains of the Romanovs in The Final Chapter; and dazzles with the fairytale romance of the last emperor and his bride in Nicholas and Alexandra.

Russia, A Concise History by Ronald Hingley (History) A readable, condensed history of Russia’s multiple transformations by a well-known Russian scholar.

Sunlight at Midnight: St. Petersburg and the Rise of Modern Russia by W. Bruce Lincoln (History) A wonderfully written, informative portrait of the city, discussing its culture, architecture and history. Lincoln focuses on the development of St. Petersburg in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Icon and the Axe: An Interpretive History of Russia by James H. Billington (History) “A rich and readable introduction to the whole sweep of Russian cultural and intellectual history from Kevan times to the post-Khruschev era.” –Library Journal

48 ULN2017 07/24/2017 Suggested Movies

China Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon (2000, Action) A worldwide sensation, this movie pays tribute to the Kung Fu genre but also updates it for a new audience. The central question of what it means to be faithful is wrapped up in an exciting plot about the theft of a famed sword.

Eat, Drink, Man, Woman (1994, Comedy) A gentle comedy about finding romance and purpose. The plot centers on a famous chief, now retired and widowed, who expresses his love for his three daughters through the elaborate meals that he creates.

Farewell My Concubine (1993, Drama). Two stars of the Peking Opera deal with complex issues ranging from personal to political.

Mulan (1998, Family) Have kids or grandkids who are curious about where you’re going? This Disney animated movie is a great way to introduce them to a classic Chinese legend.

Raise the Red Lantern (1992, Drama) A beautifully shot period piece that follows the tragic intrigues between the four wives of a wealthy business man in 1920s China, as told from the point of view of his youngest wife.

The Good Earth (1937, Romance). An adaptation of the novel by the same name, this is the sweeping story a farming couple struggling with class differences, poverty, and nature. Luise Rainer won an Oscar for her performance as the self-sacrificing O-Lan.

The Inn of the Sixth Happiness (1958, Biography) Based on the life of English missionary Gladys Aylward, Inn follows her struggles to integrate into Chinese society while simultaneously changing that society.

The Last Emperor (1987, Biography) A biopic about the romantic yet sad life of China’s last emperor who was finally dethroned in 1917. Beautiful camera work, gorgeous colors, and full of pageantry.

The Painted Veil (2006, Romance) Love, betrayal, and possible redemption between two missionaries in rural China during the 1930s. Was filmed on location in the area surrounding Guilin.

Mongolia Mongol: The Rise of Genghis Khan (2008, Biopic/Foreign) A sweeping historical epic that focuses on the early life of Genghis Khan. The director used Mongolian actors and filmed on location. If you’d prefer a non-fiction approach, look for Genghis Khan: Terror and Conquest from A&E’s Biography series.

The Way Back (2010, Drama) A group of escaped gulag prisoners make their way out of Siberia across Mongolia, facing possible recapture, harsh conditions, and moral dilemmas (such as when is it right to leave someone behind) along the way.

07/24/2017 ULN2017 49 The Horse Boy (2009, Documentary) In this heartfelt documentary, a family travels from Texas to Mongolia to try a combination of shamanic healing and horseback riding therapy for their autistic son.

Dinosaur Hunters: Secrets of the Gobi Desert (2002,Natural History) Part of the wide-ranging National Geographic series, this documentary follows a join expedition by members of the Mongolian Academy of Sciences and the American Museum of Natural History.

The Story of the Weeping Camel (2003, Documentary) A film that focuses on a Mongolian family’s attempts to save a rare white camel that has been rejected by its mother. Nominated for a “Best Documentary” Oscar in 2004.

The Cave of the Yellow Dog (2005, Drama) A gentle fable about a nomadic girl who takes in a stray dog. The film won several awards, including “Best Children’s Film” at the Deutscher Filmpreis (Germany’s Oscars). By the same director as The Story of the Weeping Camel.

Babies (2010, Documentary) An usual film that follows fours babies—one in Mongolia, one in Japan, one in Namibia, and one in the U.S. There is almost no narration, just a camera following the kids as they go from newborns to their first birthday.

Wolf Totem (2015, Action) The film adaptation of the book by the same name. A Chinese student adopts a wolf club during his exile in Mongolia under the Cultural Revolution.

The Eagle Huntress (2016, Documentary) A teenaged girl hunts with an eagle high in the mountains.

Russia Russia: Land of the Tsars (2003, Documentary) Filmed on location in Russia by the A&E crew, this documentary captures the imperial history of the Tsars. Look for the special edition set that includes bonus episodes from the TV show A&E Biography on Peter the Great, Ivan the Terrible, and Rasputin.

50 ULN2017 07/24/2017 Useful Websites

Overseas Adventure Travel Forum (tips World Weather from previous travelers) www.intellicast.com www.oattravel.com/forum www.weather.com www.wunderground.com Overseas Adventure Travel Store www.oatshop.com Basic Travel Phrases (80 languages) www.travlang.com/languages International Health Information/CDC (Centers for Disease Control) Packing Tips http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel www.travelite.org

Electricity & Plugs U.S. Customs & Border Protection www.worldstandards.eu/electricity/ www.cbp.gov/travel plugs-and-sockets Transportation Security Administration Foreign Exchange Rates (TSA) www.xe.com/currencyconverter www.tsa.gov www.oanda.com/converter/classic National Passport Information Center ATM Locators www.travel.state.gov www.mastercard.com/atm Holidays Worldwide www.visa.com/atmlocator www.timeanddate.com/holidays

07/24/2017 ULN2017 51 For information regarding your existing reservation: Visit www.oattravel.com/myaccount or call us toll-free at 1-800-221-0814