717 423; 423; % 00 00 % country code 32,860 None required for citizens of the EU, of the EU, for citizens None required GMT/UTC + 1 GMT/UTC international access code international Population Codes Telephone Time Visas and New Zealand Canada, USA, Australia, South Africa

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danke (goodbye), (goodbye), (do you speak Eng- (good day), Prince Hans-Adam II sending postcards home sending postcards home German Check out the country’s 400km of trails through – stunning alpine scenery 400km of Check out the country’s auf wiedersehen guten tag

Sfr50 to Sfr120 per day Swiss franc (Sfr); A$1 = Sfr0.93; Swiss franc (Sfr); A$1 = Sfr0.93; Found throughout Vaduz 150 sq km (2½ would would 150 sq km (2½ Liechtensteins Just to say you did, write a postcard home from this ski resort. How many people a postcard home from this ski resort. Just to say you did, write Snap a picture of the royal castle with its stunning mountain castle with its stunning the royal in this tiny backdrop of Snap a picture fit into Andorra!) Area ATMS Budget Capital for Famous stamped by the country’s postal service, dentures Head of State Language Money CA$1 = Sfr1.10; €1 = Sfr1.57; ¥100 = Sfr1.04; NZ$1 = Sfr0.80; UK£1 = Sfr2.34; US$1 = Sfr1.22 Phrases (thanks), sie Englisch? sprechen lish?)

The compact size of this principality means that you can stay outside Vaduz and still access all and still access all of this principality means that you can stay outside Vaduz compact size The of the attractions. LIECHTENSTEIN ROAMING to spend a night in Vaduz country in a day if you want to, but better You can tour the entire all it has to offer. appreciate and another in to really FAST FACTS FACTS FAST „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ HINTS TRAVEL

Vaduz ) p719 as a capital masquerading ( village Malbun ) p721 ( skiing in Liechtenstein? can say were they really Hiking trails ) p721 in the tiny principality ( anywhere this can be accomplished

„ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS It’s true, Liechtenstein makes a fabulous wine-and-cheese hour trivia subject – did you know makes It’s true, Liechtenstein who lives monarch by an iron-willed it was the sixth smallest country?… It’s still governed But if dentures… producer of is the world’s largest it really in a Gothic castle on a hill… Yes, principality solely for the cocktail-party bragging visiting this pocket-sized rights, keep you’re its independence seriously This theme-park micronation takes and would the operation covert. would rather Liechtenstein value alone. for novelty being considered shudder at the thought of and 6km in just 25km in length for its stunning natural beauty. Measuring be remembered

Liechtenstein © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © 716 LIECHTENSTEIN banks agreed tostopallowingcustomers try. Inresponse tointernational outrage, that moneylaunderingwasrife inthecoun- litical institutionswere rocked byallegations would limitgovernment power. over constitutionalreforms hisproposed that who hassinceclashed withthegovernment byhisson,PrinceHans-Adamsucceeded II, cityoftal Vaduz. He diedin1989andwas first rulertolive inthecastleabove thecapi- IIwasthe becomes law.PrinceFranzJosef ment andmustapprove actbefore every it prince retains thepowertodissolve parlia- todaythewas drawnupin1921,buteven independence in1866.Amodernconstitution from 1719to1806,itachieved fullsovereign principality undertheHolyRomanEmpire Liechtenstein familycreated thecountry.A the countyof Vaduz in1712bythepowerful A merger of thedomainof Schellenberg and HISTORY quaintvillages,of friendlylocalsandlush cliffs, green craggy forests. itsfilledwithnumeroushikingandcyclingtrailsoffering views on amap,upclose spectacular width, thecountryisbarely larger notlooklike thanManhattan. itmight much Andthough 718 LIECHTENSTEIN S WITZERLAND In 2000Liechtenstein’s financial andpo- N3 Sargans TRANSPORT •• Getting There &Away ••Getting TRANSPORT Trübbach Buchs Haag Sevelen Sennwald N13

Rhine SYHA Hostel Mauren Eschen VADUZ Ruggell 3miles 5km 0 0 Schellenberg 16 A USTRI Feldkirch Tisis Malbun valid). Buses run every half-hour fromtheAus- half-hour runevery valid). Buses (from Buchs/Sargans Sfr2.40/3.60, SwissPass towns, there are usually three toVaduz buses and Sargans, respectively. Fromeach of these Swiss bordertownsof Buchs (viaRomanshorn) many) andZürich, withtrainconnectionstothe The nearest airportsare Friedrichshafen (Ger- THERE&AWAY GETTING TRANSPORT head of state. heremainscountry tohissonAlois,although Adam handedtheday-to-dayrunningof the in areferendum. ThefollowingyearHans- Vaduz woulddototourism– backed him sibly worriedabout whatanemptySchloss didn’t get hiswayandthepopulation–pos- threatened tostompoffbackAustriaifhe ponents warnedof dictatorship, buttheprince appoint judges andreject laws.Op- proposed powers todismisstheelected government, reforms. remains underpressure tointroducemore itto bankmoneyanonymously.However, 13km (such asVaduz toMalbun). Aweekly/ rate forjourneysexceeding with thehigher and reliable; allfares costSfr2.40 orSfr3.60, Postbus travel withinLiechtenstein ischeap AROUND GETTING along theSwiss/Liechtenstein border. nates atFeldkirch. TheN13followstheRhine Liechtensteinthrough viaSchaan andtermi- Schaan (bustickets are valid). have tochange atSchaan toreach Vaduz. trian bordertownof Feldkirch; yousometimes In 2003Hans-Adam demanded sweeping By road, route 16 from passes By road,route 16fromSwitzerlandpasses A few localBuchs–Feldkirch trainsstopat

„ „ „ Switzerland: The sameemergency numbersapplyasin EMERGENCY NUMBERS

Police Fire Ambulance % % 118 117 % 144 lonelyplanet.com passport stamps for Sfr2, plus all the usual tourism help. stampsforSfr2,plusalltheusualtourism passport souvenir Nov-Apr)Offers 9am-noon &1.30-5pmMon-Fri us.li; Städtle37; internet access. h to Malbun, forexample,leaves at6.20pm. early; thelastof fromVaduz thehourlybuses students andseniors). for monthly passisonlySfr10/20 (half-price lonelyplanet.com backdrop of There’s themountains. alsoa ofmagnificent vista Vaduz withaspectacular look.Atthetop,there’shill foracloser a a photographandit’sworthclimbingupthe open tothepublic,exterior gracesmany Although &ACTIVITIES SIGHTS Telecom FLShop 8am-11amSat) Mon-Fri, postoffice Main Tourism Liechtenstein INFORMATION only Städtle. andthepedestrian- byÄulestrasse closed the small,somewhatblandtowncentre en- cube-shaped concrete buildingsdominate shops, tax-free luxury-goods stores and 17 minutes onguidedbustours. Souvenir to thewhimsof for touristhordesalighting can feel like soldtocater itssoulhasbeen visitors toLiechtenstein andattimesit see, lage It’salsoallmost thananythingelse. ing castleonahill,itfeels more like avil- streets, lively patiocafésandaGothiclook- butcher knowsthebaker –withtidy,quiet Vaduz isthekindof citywhere capital the pop 5053 VADUZ Vaduz. in ( below) fromLiechtensteinGrab atimetable Tourism The only drawback is some services finish The onlydrawbackissomeservices operated itsownpostal system. ( p1141 ). Sincemid-2005,Liechtenstein has basics, checkoutthe Switzerland Directory for more informationabout Liechtenstein most everything –so –currency, airports Liechtenstein and Switzerland share al- LIECHTENSTEIN DIRECTORY 9am-noon & 1.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pmSat)Free 9am-noon &1.30-6.30pmMon-Fri, Schloss Vaduz h (Äulestrasse38; ( VADUZ ••Information 9am-noon & 1.30-5pm May-Oct, 9am-noon &1.30-5pmMay-Oct, % 237 7400;Austrasse 77; ( % (Vaduz isnot Castle) 239 6300;www.tourism h 7.45am-6pm ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ

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B5 B5 B5 B5 B5 B5 B5 B5 B5 B6 B5 Bergstr LIECHTENSTEIN LIECHTENSTEIN LIECHTENSTEIN through theprincipality’shistory,fromme- through seum; Liechtensteinisches Landesmuseum Liechtensteinisches 720 private roomsandchalets outsideVaduz. town centre. Ask thetouristofficeforalistof ofwithin easycyclingorpostbusdistance the anywhere yourself You canbase andstillbe SLEEPING display. issued since1912arenational stamps on h Stamp Museum; ticipation of the facture of teeth. false witch trialsandburningstothemanu- dieval Wed) adult/concession Sfr8/5; to hisforaglassof wineorbeer. prince invites all32,860Liechtensteiners back when there are magnificent fireworks andthe arrive on15August, ridge. insidethecastlegrounds, For a peek network of marked walkingtrailsalongthe In thetowncentre, thewell-designed Keen philatelists willlicktheir lipsinan- .li; Städtle23;s/dfromSfr195/260; colour schemes. made upwithlots of seagrassandmuted the wallsisforsale). Roomsare modern, Vaduz’s newesthotel does(everything on what gallery,whichisexactly a localart cool toseeafour-star hotel doublingas Hotel Residence SPLURGE „ „ „ „ „ „ IT’S LIECHTENSTEINTRIVIATIME

10am-noon &1-5pm) provides asurprisinglyinteresting romp Until2005,whenworriescametoaheadaboutthedrugTCH, Liechtenstein’s cowswere fed 81returned, Infact, Initslastmilitaryengagementin1866,noneof80soldierswaskilled. Liechtenstein istheonlycountryinworldnamedafter thepeoplewhopurchasedit. Liechtenstein bites –it’stheworld’slargest intoalarge market chunkofthefalse-teeth There are 80,000companiesregistered intheprincipality–that’snearlydoublepopula- Ifyouever sure meettheprinceinpub,make hebuysaround.The royalfamilyisesti- % hemp to keep themchilledandproducing‘better’hemp tokeep milk. including anewItalian‘friend’.The armywasdisbandedsoon afterwards. oftheproduct. exporter tion ofVaduz. UK£3.3billion. mated tobeworth VADUZ ••Sleeping 239 6820;www.landesmuseum.li;Städtle43; % 236 6105;Städtle37;admissionfree;

h Briefmarkenmuseum ( % , where 300framesof Liechtenstein’s NationalDay Liechtenstein’s 10am-5pm Tue-Sun, 10am-8pm 239 2020;www.residence ni

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) (Postage It’s , 13; s/dfromSfr110/165; ofit’s withineasywalkingdistance either. families. Halfway Schaan between andVaduz, this hostel caters particularlytocyclistsand ception closed10am-5pm) Untere Rütigasse6;dm/dSfr30.50/82; Triesen. and kiosk.It’soutsideVaduz, justsouthof lounge, playground with arestaurant, TV well-equipped campinggroundinaleafyspot, camp sitesperadult/tent/child/carSfr8.50/8/4.50/4; Sfr4-8, 2-course mealSfr20) fare. andSwiss-German pasta The menuisloadedwithsoups,salads, night. at theback.DJsspinat and flat-screen TVs at thefront,andaslickbarwithlounge feel candlelitrestaurantspot hasalinentablecloth, sundaes it’sagoodspotforthekids. and often packed, and withloadsof ice-cream menu.The placeispopular a fancierItalian red wallsandbrassfixtures. Upstairs there’s a Parisian vibe,complete withtherequisite ers atthedownstairs caféwith andsalads 23 83;Städtle15;mainsSfr15-30) ment restaurants andcafés. Pedestrian-only Städtlehasaclutch of pave- EATING &DRINKING the hallways. waftingtempting aromasthrough Chinese) hotel. There’s anAsian restaurant (Thaiand ern butfeel soullessatthisrecently remodelled o Brasserie Italiano&Burg Cesare Ristorante SYHA hostel Mittagspitze Camping Hotel Engel Hotel Beat

( % Café Wolf Café 236 8484;Städtle3;mainsSfr10-35) Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com

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Chowonpizza,burg- ( % 392 3677,2311; h Roomsare mod- ) lonelyplanet.com mid-Mar–Oct, mid-Mar–Oct, ( % This s h 232 A ) re- music some evenings. Shoestring travellers Shoestring music someevenings. is aperfect placetounwind–there islive bar,withorchids andlowlighting, horseshoe daily, butalwaysincludesaveggie option.The dinners. two-course Themenuchangesset lonelyplanet.com the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright theterms and conditionsonoursiteforalonger wayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake Liechtensteiner. Youmustbefitandnotsuffer Fürstensteig included). Themostfamoushikingtrailisthe anddirectionssymbol; distances willalsobe cycling routes Liechtenstein, alongwithloadsof well-marked zerland’s Valais inthe 13thcentury. tosettle memberscommunity, whose camefromSwit- h Heimatmuseum It hasapretty onion-domedchurch andthe mands excellentviewsover valley. theRhine drop, isaboutasidyllicandrelaxing asitgets. Alpsback- and enticingchurches toacraggy set The countryside,dotted withtranquilvillages pungent, aromaof sweet cowdungandflowers. Outside Vaduz theairiscrispandclearwitha AROUND VADUZ andbrats. pasta will appreciate thecheap including takeaway, There are 400kmof Triesenberg 1.30-5.30pm Tue-Sat) , arite of passage fornearlyevery (lookforsignswithabiking , onaterrace above Vaduz, com-

( AROUNDVADUZ ••Malbun % 262 1926;adult/studentSfr2/1; , devoted to the totheWalser , devoted hiking trails hiking through through Hotel Walserhof. so youcanrideupandhike down. operates insummer (oneway/return Sfr8/12), ( a dayandcanbehired fromthe andpolescostSfr44 for under 28.Skis,shoes for adultsandjustSfr31/137 forstudents skipasscostsSfr37/165 A one-day/week-long offer rights. somebragging and itdoes skiing isinexpensive forthispartof theworld runs are mostlynovice andintermediate –the Nov–mid-Dec) h The bun. There isanATM bythelowerbusstop. ski resort. is tiny Malbun, Liechtenstein’s oneandonly inthesoutheast Nestled amidthemountains pop 100 MALBUN and weargoodshoes. Gaflei up tofourhours, beginsatthe away toasheer drop.Thehike, which takes reinforced withropehandholdsand/orfalls from vertigo, asinplacesthepathisnarrow, % Although ratherlimitedAlthough inscope–the The resort hasskiandsnowboardschools. The roadfromVaduz terminates atMal- 9am-noon & 1.30-5pm Mon-Sat, closed mid-Apr–May & 9am-noon &1.30-5pmMon-Sat,closedmid-Apr–May 263 3755) (bus30fromTriesenberg). Travel light tourist office tourist isonthemainstreet, notfarfrom intown.Achairlift attheresort

( % 263 6577;www.malbun.li; Berggasthaus Berggasthaus sports shop sports 721

LIECHTENSTEIN LIECHTENSTEIN