WHY STILL LOVES MARADONA

OS79_000 Cover.indd 1 8/22/17 11:34 AM AP DP EA YOU SKY OPEN SKIES 390x260+DCC2X7mm UAE.indd 1 15/06/2017 09:59 0270117096_BMW_G12_M760Li_Inflight_Print_Ads_Open_Skies_195x260mm.indd 2 8/23/17 11:09 AM 0270117096_BMW_G12_M760Li_Inflight_Print_Ads_Open_Skies_195x260mm.indd 1 8/23/17 11:09 AM AP DP EA YOU SKY OPEN SKIES 390x260+DCC2X7mm UAE.indd 2 15/06/2017 09:59

- LHP.pdf 1 8/23/17 5:52 PM

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K - RHP.pdf 2 8/23/17 5:52 PM

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

Editor-in-ChiEf Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Managing PartnEr & grouP Editor Ian Fairservice EditoriaL dirECtor Gina Johnson [email protected] grouP Editor Mark Evans [email protected] SEnior Editor Andrew Nagy [email protected] digitaL / Print dESignEr Roui Francisco [email protected] digitaL aniMator Surajit Dutta [email protected] VidEo Editor Donnie Miguel [email protected] Sub Editor Salil Kumar [email protected] EditoriaL aSSiStant Londresa Flores [email protected]

ContributorS Emma Coiler, Gary Evans, Sarah Freeman, Peter Hendrie, Marina Kay, Thomas Mester, Sean Williams, Chris Young Cover: Massimo Sambucetti

ChiEf CoMMErCiaL offiCEr gEnEraL Anthony Milne [email protected] ManagEr ProduCtion S Sunil Kumar grouP SaLES ManagEr SEnior SaLES ManagEr SEnior SaLES ManagEr Michael Underdown Shruti Srivastava Michelle Quinn ProduCtion [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] ManagEr R Murali Krishnan

EditoriaL ConSuLtantS for EMiratES Editor Manna Talib arabiC Editor Hatem Omar dEPuty Editor Catherine Freeman WEbSitE emirates.com

InternatIonal MedIa representatIves auStraLia/nEW ZEaLand Okeeffe Media; Tel + 61 894 472 734, [email protected] bELgiuM and LuXEMbourg M.P.S. Benelux; Tel +322 720 9799, [email protected] China Publicitas Advertising; Tel +86 10 5879 5885 gErMany IMV Internationale Medien Vermarktung GmbH; Tel +49 8151 550 8959, [email protected] hong Kong/MaLaySia/thaiLand Sonney Media Networks; Tel +852 2151 2351, [email protected] india Media Star; Tel +91 22 4220 2103, [email protected] JaPan Tandem Inc.; Tel + 81 3 3541 4166, [email protected] nEthErLandS giO media; Tel +31 (0)6 22238420, [email protected] PaKiStan D&S International News Agency; Tel +92 3235345727, [email protected] SWitZErLand, franCE/itaLy & SPain IMM International; Tel +331 40 1300 30, [email protected] turKEy Media Ltd.; Tel +90 212 275 51 52, [email protected] uK Spafax Inflight Media; Tel +44 207 906 2001, [email protected] uSa World Media Inc; Tel: +1 212 244 5610, [email protected]

Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.

134,109 copies Media One Tower, Dubai Media City PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE July – December 2016 Telephone: (+971 4) 427 3000 Fax: (+971 4) 428 2261 Email: [email protected] Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE | 9 |

OS79_008-011 Flannel & Editor's Letter.indd 8 8/22/17 4:23 PM FOR THE CITY WHERE NOTHING IS IMPOSSIBLE… THE SHOW THAT PROVES IT. NOW LIVE AT AL HABTOOR CITY

La Perle by Dragone is the region’s first ever permanent show, featuring 65 world-class artists. Created by world-renowned Artistic Director Franco Dragone, La Perle combines the spirit of Dubai with an iconic 860 sqm aqua-stage to deliver an unmissable spectacle in, on, and above water.

BOOK YOUR TICKETS TODAY

LaPerle.com

La Perle Open Skies English 195x260mm Aug.indd 1 8/6/17 5:45 PM Editor’s lE ttE r

ANDREW NAGY on the Cover SENiOr EDiTOr

few months ago, Diego and like them, he wanted to stick it to Maradona was made an the north. That the riches of his own A honorary citizen of Naples. existence was a far cry from the majority The evening ended with him sitting on of supporters was of little consequence. top of a van, topless, and leading fans in Maradona had promised them trophies the chant: “Whoever isn’t cheering is a and they were going along with him – Juventus fan.” 75,000 turning out simply to see him sign As a Napoli player, Maradona made his contract. Two years later they became miracles happen – two Serie A titles, the first southern team to win the league a Coppa Italia and the Uefa Cup – and title, and his place in Neapolitan history his extraordinary achievements at the was assured. unfashionable club in the south are why Our cover story this month took the the people love him. But that he ended writer Gary Evans into the heart of the why naples still loves maradona this wasn’t football, it was politiCs, Thirty years after bringing a first league but maradona exCelled there, too – at title to Napoli, is still the king of Naples. Even to those who least in revolutionary intent never saw him play in their colours. Our cover by Massimo Sambucetti shows the this night on top of a van, minus his top city, just prior to Maradona’s celebration main man at his best. and singing football songs against the and honorary citizenship. He found a north is why they really love him. people that hadn’t changed much in the His 1984 signing alone was an act 30 years since that first league title: still of defiance by chairman Corrado passionate, still defiant, still in love with Ferlaino; a slap in face for the football Diego Maradona. powerhouses of Milan, Inter, Juventus and After seven years, and many trophies, Roma who so desperately coveted the Maradona left Napoli in disgrace. He’d little Argentinian’s signature. This wasn’t upset the Mafia, the chairman and, well, football, it was politics, but Maradona countless others. He’d disappeared, got excelled there, too – at least when it the huff and generally caused mayhem came to revolutionary intent. and scandal like only this particular A desire to upset the natural order Argentinian could. But the city couldn’t identified Maradona as one of their stay mad at the man for long… and own in the eyes of the Neapolitans. Like therein lies the true magic of Maradona. them, he had been born into poverty; like them, he simmered with injustice; Enjoy the issue

now available on your ipad

facebook.com/ twitter.com/ instagram.com/ LOOK OUT FOR THIS ICON ON EACH openskiesmag openskiesmag openskiesmag STORY IN OPEN SKIES FOR AN INSIGHT INTO THE WORLD OF EMIRATES

| 11 |

OS79_008-011 Flannel & Editor's Letter.indd 11 8/23/17 11:33 AM CONTENTS

FRONT 16 20 24 32

Experience Stay Neighbourhood Lunch With

MAIN 38 47 56

The King of A View From The September Naples The Window Issue

BRIEFING 6772 7470 76

Emirates News Inside Emirates Destination Comfort Customs & Visa Information 80 8288 90

UAE Smart Gate Route Map Emirates Fleet The Guide

| 12 | | 15 |

OS79_015 Contents.indd 13 8/22/17 3:57 PM DISCOVER THE NEW EPICENTER OF ISTANBUL. Ultimate Shopping, Dining and Entertainment Destination

emaarsquaremall.com w

Carefully curated content focused on unique experiences

Stay 20

Experience Neighbourhood Lunch With 16 24 32 FRONT

OS79_016-018 Experience.indd 15 8/22/17 3:58 PM EXPERIENCE

AUGUST 31 ONWARDS LA PERLE DUBAI, UAE

EXECUTIVE PRODUCER CRAIG HARTENSTINE EXPLAINS WHY LA PERLE JUST MIGHT BE THE MOST AMAZING SHOW YOU’LL EVER SEE

To the city that trades in superlatives, La experience as soon as you enter the theatre, across different specialities such as slacklining, Perle delivers one of the most spectacular with walls that give the impression of diving and acrobatics. shows in the world, fusing incredible artistic entering a cave and a floor and ceiling that Once the theatre was ready, the artistic performances, immersive imagery and come alive in ways that will transport the and technical teams moved to Al Habtoor groundbreaking technology. audience to another world. There are just 14 City and started rehearsing daily onstage as Franco Dragone – famed for his work rows of seats wrapping 270 degrees around we began what we call Creation – the final with Cirque du Soleil – was approached with the stage, providing visitors with exceptional stage when Dragone and his team create the an idea to create a spectacular entertainment views of the show while each seat offers an vision for his masterpiece. show that would tell the story of the UAE. intimate and completely different perspective The whole team is extremely proud Throughout the show aspects of Dubai’s as the action unfolds. of La Perle and we’re looking forward to rich culture and history, vibrant present and The 65 artists began rehearsals in welcoming everyone there to fully immerse aspirational future are featured through the October, when they took over the region’s themselves in the wonderful world we’ve music, special effects, action and scenery. biggest soundstage in Dubai Studio City and created. We aim to deliver a one-of-a-kind The scale and magnitude of the show went through what is known as Training and entertainment experience, so be sure to is just so spectacular that we had to build formation. This is when the artists refine their expect the unexpected. a theatre around it. It’s a unique immersive skills and disciplines and learn to cross-train laperle.com Download the Emirates App – available for iPhone, iPad and Android. Your personal journey planner makes it easy to view and arrange your trips when you’re on the go. Designed to complement the iPhone app, there’s also an Emirates App for Apple Watch.

| 16 | | 17 |

OS79_016-018 Experience.indd 16 8/22/17 3:58 PM

ExpE riE ncE

September 15-17 The Good Life experience Wales, UK SiNgER, SONgwRiTER AND CO-FOUNDER OF THE gOOD LiFE ExpERiENCE, cerys MaTThews ExpLAiNS wHy A wEEKEND iN wALES CAN BE gOOD FOR THE SOUL

I wanted to stage a weekend that celebrates more. They all give talks and demos, mostly outdoors, fresh air and the natural world. the natural world and wildlife, which offers all for free once you’re on the site. I think the popularity of our festival tells activities like bushcraft, foraging and cooking We handpick all our guests and us that we’re beginning to understand that on a fire in addition to the usual music and contributors. We had the author Michael there’s a time and a place for it all. That we literature. More than anything, however, we Morpurgo last year. The poet Michael Rosen need balance and in this megabrand-driven wanted to get away from blind consumerism. is coming this year as well as legendary DJ world, a weekend of good company, cultural There’s no VIP area; here everybody is equal. Norman Jay and chef Thomasina Miers. We enlightenment and making memories in the This is the weekend in the year when I also have an authentic Wild West hoedown countryside is priceless. can invite the passionate people I meet to on Friday night and Beethoven’s Eroica You leave the festival feeling energised come and meet other curious, like-minded being performed live on Sunday. It’s quite an and inspired after hearing from scientists, people. We’re part of the renaissance eclectic mix. explorers, musicians, writers and of interest in traditional crafts and we We began in 2014. I knew there would philosophers; but my own personal highlight welcome more than 50 makers to the be people who felt like me – that gadgets was my 14-year-old daughter walking up show, including axesmiths from Manhattan, and the internet are absolutely brilliant to me with straw in her hair and telling me denim-makers from Shoreditch, rope – but who equally didn’t want to wave she’d had the best weekend of her life.

weavers, potters, screen painters and goodbye to that sense of love for the thegoodlifeexperience.co.uk LOVE LUVELLA i MA g E : TASH Are you a foodie? Check out Lifestyle TV on ice for programmes like Chef vs Science: The Ultimate Kitchen Challenge, Eating Out in Dubai, Hidden Restaurants with Michel Roux Jr, and hit shows from Food Network like Chopped and Beat Bobby Flay.

| 18 | | 19 |

OS79_016-018 Experience.indd 18 8/22/17 5:42 PM

Stay:CLa SSIC

THE Hollywood roosEvElT los angeles, Us

Words: ANdrEW NAGY ImAGE: THE HoLLYWood roosEVELT

Sitting majestically opposite TCL Chinese Not that they’re trading on names Fame outside before heading back for Theatre on 7000 Hollywood Boulevard, alone. Following a recent US$25 million lunch at 25 Degrees, their upmarket take The Hollywood Roosevelt hosted the first refurb, the rooms and suites play on the on a classic burger joint. ever Academy Awards ceremony, counted Spanish Colonial Revival style mixed with End the evening at Prohibition-style Marilyn Monroe, Clark Gable and Charlie retro-cool, cabana-style living. speakeasy The Spare Room, for drinks, Chaplin as regulars, and was where Errol In the morning, head to the Tropicana bowling – they have a two-lane alley – and Flynn is rumoured to have created his pool – starring famed David Hockney the makings of a sore head. Their famous recipe for bootleg gin. It’s as much a part mural at the bottom – and enjoy free former patrons would heartily approve. of Hollywood legend as the sign in the hills. coffee. Spend your day on the Walk of thehollywoodroosevelt.com

Emirates operates a daily service to Los Angeles with the Airbus A380.

| 20 | | 21 |

OS79_020-022 Stay.indd 20 8/22/17 3:59 PM Eden Island.pdf 1 8/20/17 1:43 PM

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K Stay:contemporary

25 Hours ZuricH West Zurich, SwitZ erland

Words: Christopher Beanland image: 25 hoUrs

Here’s the thing – Zurich got hip when palette and cheeky touches – the up to your room in lieu of room service. nobody was looking. If you don’t believe do not disturb signs are the most creative Once you’re ready to head into the city, that, just take pay a visit to the epicentre we’ve seen (trust us, they will make you you’ll find a tram right outside that can of its newfound cool status, Zurich West, giggle as well). take you to Zurich’s pretty Downtown. and book a room in the boutique hotel The service is friendly and easygoing. If you’d rather remain in control, simply 25 Hours. There is a youthful team can’t do enough take one of the hotel’s two Mini Clubman Located in the arts hub and housed in to help and the food in the onsite S cars, with four hours of driving time what is essentially a black cube, the design restaurant Neni is fantastic home-cooked available to guests absolutely free. belies the exterior, with a bright colour Middle Eastern mezze. You can even take it 25hours-hotel.com

Emirates offers twice-daily service to Zurich with the Airbus A380.

| 22 | | 23 |

OS79_020-022 Stay.indd 22 8/22/17 3:59 PM

Neighbourhood Pinheiros, são Paulo, brazil Words and images: sarah freeman

images: XXX

| 24 | | 25 |

OS79_024-030 Neighbourhood.indd 24 8/22/17 4:00 PM Neighbourhood

andwiched between the elite district of Jardim Paulista and achingly hip Vila Madalena, multicultural, bohemian and slightly grungy Pinheiros is finally stepping out of the shadow of its more established Shilly neighbours. This formerly working class area has its own street art shrines, townhouses repurposed for galleries, shaded cacti courtyards and even co- working spaces that double as launderettes serving cocktails. Rua dos Pinheiros – one of the city’s prime gastronomic destinations – is strewn with restaurants and bars that give nightlife-rich Vila Madalena a run for its money. Paradoxically Pinheiros (which translates as pines) is more grey than green nowadays. The dense forest of Brazilian subtropical pine trees that once carpeted its 8sq km footprint, bordered by Reboucas, Dr Arnaldo and Nações Unidas avenues, is long gone. But thankfully, nature still pervades, with ancient trees towering over Pinheiros’ low-rise housing (some of the city’s most desirable) and vertical gardens breathing new life into urban structures. The last few years have seen investment flooding into the area, thanks to the district’s Faria Lima Station, built in 2013 as a welcome addition to what is South America’s only driverless subway line. But in the face of modernisation and inevitable gentrification, Pinheiros has not forgotten its roots. Turn-of-the-century botecos still outnumber its millennial-filled cocktail bars, and many of its clubs play authentic Latin American music, not to mention samba, which practically pulsates from the beginning of Cardeal Arcoverde road. Local chorinho (traditional bands), meanwhile, have made Benedito Calixto Square their second home. Every Saturday the animated square hosts a fleamarket where you can shop for vinyl, antiques and try local street food like tapioca cake or R$10 ($3) pots of acai topped with granola and honey. The square is intersected by the 3km-long Teodoro Sampaio road, where you can find a throng of shops specialising in musical instruments and luthiers, which line the four blocks extending from Alves Guimarães road to Clinicas metro station. And while Pinherios might not have Vila Mariana’s art cache, several cultural centres such as Tomie Ohtake and Sesc Pinheiros, together with a slew of secondhand bookstores and independent galleries, are bolstering its artistic credentials.

| 24 | | 25 |

OS79_024-030 Neighbourhood.indd 25 8/22/17 4:00 PM Neighbourhood

in the area (Four-minute walk) Vintage Finds + Vegan Footwear AT LA GARçONNE Behind At La Garçonne’s ivy-clad, neon facade could very well be the city’s best collection of high-end vintage interiors, housed under the roof of a vast 500sq m warehouse. Americana-like neon vintage signs are propped up on Brazilian modernist furniture crafted from rare jacaranda wood, alongside one-off pieces such as an antique naval luminaire and table lamp fashioned from a copper agricultural poison sprayer. It’s no wonder owner and curator Fábio Souza, who conceived the brand in 2009, rents out his highly sought-after European, Brazilian and American artefacts inSeCta SHoeS for use in lavish fashion editorials. The catwalk collaborations don’t end there. Souza’s Shop sustainably at this gorgeous partner Alexandre Herchcovitch happens to be one of the country’s most celebrated boutique, which sells statement fashion designers. You can check the native designer’s streetwear couture at the rear vegan boots, sandals, slippers and Oxford shoes crafted from of the store, where vegan shoes and signature handpainted vintage jackets are artfully recycled plastic and rubber waste displayed between (very comfy) Italian Chesterfield sofas and objets d’art priced and vintage clothes produced in between R$45 (US$14) and R$30,000 (US$9,530). southern Brazil’s Porto Alegre. R Francisco Leitão, 134 Pinheiros | 05414 020 | 11 2364 3280 | alagarconne.com.br R ARtuR de AzevedO, 1295 PinheiROS, 05404 013 | 11 3892 6715 inSectAShOeS.cOm

| 26 | | 27 |

OS79_024-030 Neighbourhood.indd 26 8/22/17 4:00 PM beachcomber.pdf 1 8/20/17 3:13 PM

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K Neighbourhood

in the area Stay + SmoothieS (Three-minuTe walk) GUEST URBAN HOTEL

Bunking down in this restored ’60s villa-turned-boutique-hotel will leave you feeling more like a Paulistano than a regular hotel guest. Located on a quiet, tree-lined residential street a stone’s throw from lively Benedito Calixto Square, patrons can eat breakfast out of the open-fronted garage and make themselves at home in the vintage-themed living room, adorned with antique trunks and sewing machines. The 14 DOna ViTamina bedrooms are decidedly more spartan. The odd retro trinket and riotously coloured Who doesn’t like a toilet decorated fruit print cushion or two soften the unfinished steel, exposed brick and concrete with a hanging pineapple lamp? Dona industrial walls. Art lovers will appreciate the original photography (which you can buy Vitamina’s quirky interior and five-a- day smoothies (best slurped down in in-house), sourced from local gallery Compota Edições Limitadas. Owners and self- its glorious vertical garden) make for a confessed travel junkies Fábio Queiroz and chef Demian Figueiredo go the extra mile hugely popular neighbourhood cafe. to familiarise their Paulistanos in the making with the local surroundings. Daily tips are R Mateus GRou, 152 PinheiRos, 05415 040 | 11 scrawled on a huge blackboard while rental bikes are stacked up and available to use 3063 0582 DonaVitaMina.coM.bR in the cacti-filled courtyard. R Lisboa, 493 Cerqueira César, 05413 000 | 11 3081 5030 | guesturbansp.com.br

In March 2017, Emirates commenced a daily A380 service between São Paulo and Dubai, marking the airline’s 10th year of operations in Brazil. The airline made history in October 2007, becoming the first airline to connect the Middle East and South America with a non-stop direct flight service.

| 28 | | 29 |

OS79_024-030 Neighbourhood.indd 28 8/23/17 2:30 PM LIMITED–EDITION LIVING

14 SINGLE-FLOOR RESIDENCES FOR LAVISH BEACHFRONT LIVING. Coming soon to Surfers Paradise. ENQUIRE NOW TheAuSurfersParadise.com Text AUEmirates to +61428 437 566 for more information Surfers Paradise, Australia Artist’s impression Neighbourhood

in the area Food Market + everything (Seventeen-minute walk) HOUSE OF ALL

There aren’t many places in São Paulo (or any city for that matter) where you can rent a designer label wardrobe, sip on a G&T over a laundry cycle and dine on international cuisine curated by chefs who change daily – all under one roof. And there’s more. The creative, collaborative space, housed across four adjoining buildings, encompasses a funky, co-working annex and skill exchange in the ‘house of learning’. The man behind it is former creative director-turned-entrepreneur Wolfgang Baccarat Menke, who is tapping into the booming global sharing economy. Nicknamed the Netflix of clothing, the style-savvy can meRCaDO muniCiPal upgrade their wardrobe with brands like Christian Dior and Zadig and Voltaire for as De PinHeiROS Big-name chefs Alex Atala, Rodrigo Oliveira little as R$50 ($16) per month. The company is also helping nurture local culinary talent and Checho Gonzales have innovative by enabling up-and-coming chefs to run their own restaurant for 24 hours. French chefs stalls and table-less restaurants in Benoit Mathurin and Pierre Anquier sharpened their chef’s knives here before opening this traditional market, where you can their restaurant, Rooftop Esther, in Republic Square. buy Amazonian mushrooms and taste traditional tapioca or fresh ceviche. R Dr Virgílio de Carvalho Pinto, 47 Pinheiros | 05415 030 | 11 2366 4287 | houseofall.co R PedRO CRisti, 89 PinheiROs, 05421 040 | 11 3518 9096 meRCAdOmuniCiPAldePinheiROs.COm

| 30 | | 31 |

OS79_024-030 Neighbourhood.indd 30 8/22/17 4:00 PM

Lunch with Eric ripErt The man behind one of the most celebrated restaurants in New York City on home cooking, comparisons with Picasso and not aiming for Michelin stars (but still getting them)

wordS: MArINA KAY IMAGES: ThoMAS MESTEr

It’s a rainy Thursday afternoon when I meet Eric Ripert for lunch. West 51st Street, it commands prime real estate from a street- Not that this matters to the diners around me, of course. Here level corner of The Equitable Building, not far from the Museum to experience his three- Michelin-starred restaurant, Le Bernardin, of Modern Art. For all its sophistication, the serene space is a reservations will have been made a month prior – a process convivial one, warm for its high teak ceiling, ambient lighting, mandated by the restaurant and orchestrated by a well-organised leather banquettes, and custom-designed millwork. full-time staff of five. It’s hardly surprising; this is a fine dining In person, Ripert is as charmingly reserved as he appears on establishment that consistently places on the World’s 50 Best TV, best known as the side kick to long-time friend Anthony Restaurants list, has a loyal Zagat following and five four-star New Bourdain, the former chef now famous intrepid host of CNN’s York Times reviews, held ever since the restaurant opened in 1986 Parts Unknown, who uncovers lesser-known and remote places – three of which earned under the care of Ripert. around the world. Except for their perfectly groomed silver-fox “The New York Times is a very well respected institution,” says hair, the two couldn’t be more different – the Good + Evil Ripert, as we settle into the lounge area adjoining the main dining chocolate bar they collaborated on with Williams-Sonoma room, now filling up with guests. “When that paper gives you a alludes to this dichotomy – yet theirs is a dynamic that works. four-star rating, it’s an immediate, long-lasting success. We receive Viewers can’t get enough of this bromance, well documented in thousands of calls a week.” episodes set in Marseille, France, all the way to Sichuan, China, Ripert is the executive chef and co-owner of this impressive where Bourdain took particular glee in watching his friend sweat French seafood restaurant that makes “fish the star of the show” through a peppercorn- and chili-riddled Sichuanese banquet. per Michelin Guide 2017. Located in Midtown Manhattan on “We have a good exchange,” Ripert says. “People enjoy our

| 32 | | 33 |

OS79_032-034 LunchWith.indd 32 8/22/17 5:44 PM Lunch with

marinates anything. “We do everything at the last minute, to give the flavor of spice, the aromatics, and the flavor of the fish. That’s the style of Le Bernardin,” Ripert explains as a second course of barely cooked Maine scallop with roasted bone marrow, and baby turnips in calamansi-butter sauce is placed before us. Only when a photographer comes in to take shots of the restaurant and dishes does Ripert know for certain that a Michelin inspector or The New York Times has paid them a visit, which in turn lends a certain anxiety in the lead up to the published review. The Times’ restaurant critic Pete Wells – not unrecognisable to those who have done their homework – bestowed praise on Le Bernardin most recently in 2012. But it’s not just the critics Ripert is aiming to impress. “The Zagat Survey is very important in New York,” he says. “It’s our clients who are voting for the restaurant. relationship.” A friendship that is still intact even after Bourdain And in Zagat, we are number one in New York.” These are all further coaxed his buddy into an unsuccessful public ear cleaning different ways of rating a restaurant: Michelin is an international on a park bench in China. guide, Zagat American, and The New York Times local. Ever since Le But Ripert holds his own as a TV host too, as evidenced over Bernardin opened in New York City, having relocated from Paris three seasons of Avec Eric (two made with PBS, one with Netflix, in 1986 by French chef Gilbert Le Coze and his sister Maguy, The all available on Amazon), an Emmy-winning series that whisks New York Times has confirmed its four stars. Ripert, who joined viewers on a culinary journey with the chef. “I go to the source of the restaurant as chef de cuisine in 1991, took over the role of inspiration, interact with local people who are farming, foraging, head chef upon Le Coze’s passing in 1994. hunting, fishing, wine making. Bringing the viewer with me on my Growing up, Ripert was exposed to both his grandmothers’ journey of discovery and coming back inspired – that was the provincial cooking and his mother’s Michelin-worthy homemade idea.” Each episode ends with Ripert in a gleaming white studio fare. “In my memoir 32 Yolks, I pay homage to my mother’s kitchen, making a dish in homage to the trip. cooking; I thought every child in the world was eating like me, At this point wine director Aldo Sohm arrives at our table but it’s not true.” With taste buds influenced by two cuisines – to present chef a bottle of Puligny Montrachet, Jean Chartron, that of Antibes, France, where he was born, and to Andorra, a Burgundy, France 2014. “He went with me to South Australia for small country just over the Spanish border where he moved as seven days and came back so happy. He was drunk the entire time,” a young child – at 15 he left home to attend culinary school in Ripert quips. The two had a rollicking good time making season Perpignan. He cooked at Paris’ legendary La Tour D’Argent before three’s “Off the Vine” episode – exploring Penfolds winery and taking a position at the Michelin three-starred Jamin, where, after indulging in fantastic food on Kangaroo Island. Ripert has a stake in fulfilling his military service, he returned as chef poissonier under Aldo Sohm Wine Bar, which opened around the corner in 2014. renowned chef Joël Robuchon. Our first course arrives, filet mignon and kampachi tartare When Ripert was recruited as chef for Le Bernardin in 1991, topped with Osetra caviar and set upon a lightly smoked dashi he took to the role with passion. “I wanted to be the chef that I gelée. This dish speaks to the visual impact of Ripert’s culinary am today, in a beautiful restaurant with a big kitchen, working with constructs that have drawn parallels to art by Pablo Picasso. beautiful products like caviar and truffles,” he tells me over our “Well, the food has to taste good first. However, because the third course of poached halibut coloured by a kaleidoscope of first contact with the food is your eyes, the food has to look asparagus, spring peas, fava beans, and morels. “I wanted to have appealing,” he tells me. this opportunity to express myself and have the team to help A discerning clientele paying top dollar expects a gold-class fine me to create a special experience for clients.” His team includes dining experience. Meaning dishes must be made with the best 65 cooks and eight sous chefs. Two research and development ingredients. Le Bernardin deals with fishermen directly, from Canada chefs experiment in a test kitchen and constantly present ideas to to the Carolinas to the South – for snapper. “Ninety-nine per cent evolve a menu that is never static. of the fish we use is American. Fishing here is very sustainable and But does he feel the weight of being a top chef? “I don’t feel the they [fisherman] are very conscious of making sure the fish is well pressure. I don’t think about the stars. Not like it’s not important, preserved and the stock doesn’t decline. We support those ideas of but if you think about stars, then it becomes an obsession, then course.” One per cent of the seafood comes from abroad: kampachi you become stressed, then you’re not creative, then you think from Japan, farm-raised caviar from China (it’s illegal to import caviar about the stars again. I make this analogy: It’s like an actor who’s from Russia and Iran given that sturgeon is endangered), and Dover thinking about winning an Oscar. He’s thinking so much about the sole from Europe. And in line with the tasting menu’s categories – Oscar that he forgets about playing [the movie role], and then Almost Raw, Barely Touched, and Lightly Cooked – the kitchen never he’ll never get the award. For us, it’s very much the same. We think

Emirates flies four times daily to New York JFK with the Airbus A380. Choose from three non-stop services, or a daily service that stops in Milan. Emirates also operates a daily service via Athens to Newark, New Jersey.

| 32 | | 33 |

OS79_032-034 LunchWith.indd 33 8/22/17 5:44 PM Lunch with

world where hard work and hostile conditions are a given, it makes sense how a philosophy that aims to cease suffering and achieve spiritual enlightenment might resonate. Each morning he makes time for meditation and Buddhist rituals. Adhering to Buddhist teachings has served him well. “I used to have a temper. I was a very driven young chef and I think over the years I learned how to be more compassionate. Our kitchen is very peaceful. It was not like that 20 years ago, it has been a progression, an evolution. We try to be as civilised as we can in a difficult environment. We have strong discipline and structure in the kitchen, but at the same time we do not allow abuse. I try not to influence the team with my own spirituality but I try to find a way to apply the principles of Buddhism in a secular about cooking and serving and making sure people have a good non-religious way. It’s very important not to impose on people time, and then potentially the star comes, and then you celebrate.” because as a young man, I didn’t like to have people imposing on Losing a star – or a couple as chef Thomas Keller did when me.” Ultimately, for him it all comes down to the right motivations: Pete Wells decreased Per Se’s from four to two – is not for the “Mentoring is important. Communicating the cooking wisdom – fainthearted. Although Ripert doesn’t spread himself thin (the other any wisdom – that accumulates over the years should be shared.” property he oversees is Blue by Eric Ripert in Grand Cayman), how Plates cleaned of pan-roasted monkfish and squid ink pasta does he keep the industry quandaries in check? “We have been doing are whisked away and replaced with a dessert so architectural, it this for many, many years, “ he replies thoughtfully. “It’s our lifestyle. looks too special to eat – a white orb that, when cracked, reveals Every day we are observed by official food critics, by people who are a bouquet of blueberry sorbet spiked with mezcal, accompanied going to write letters and go online. And the only thing we can do is by corn custard. It reminds me of a dish Ripert fawned over be very sincere, honest, and generous, have the mentality of hospitality, while filming Avec Eric in Sydney’s Sepia restaurant. And yes, and do the best we can. That’s it. There’s nothing anyone can do, so Ripert agrees, perhaps this dessert was somehow inspired by why worry? I try to teach my team that mentality.” that experience. The “Farm to Sydney” episode is part of the Ripert has practiced Tibetan Buddhism since the mid-nineties. series’ third season. Later this fall, the chef will again join Anthony “Do not harm or hurt people, do the right thing – this is Bourdain on Parts Unknown. And although Ripert has no plans to something that all major religions share. In Buddhism, one god isn’t write a follow-up memoir to 32 Yolks – he says his professional responsible for everything. It’s all about yourself, and every action life in America has been documented enough – he’d be partial to you take has consequences, so therefore if you do something Richard Gere playing his part if ever there were to be a 32 Yolks good, you have good consequences; something bad, then bad adaptation. Mastering that thirty-two egg yolk hollandaise sauce a consequences. It’s basically karma,” he explains. In the restaurant la Ripet would certainly make for an Oscar-worthy performance.

| 34 | | 35 |

OS79_032-034 LunchWith.indd 34 8/22/17 5:44 PM SLEEP IS LIFE’S GREATEST PLEASURE.

SLEEP IS LIFE’S GREATEST PLEASURE.

SLEEP IS LIFE’S GREATEST PLEASURE. Smile all the stay.

All our hotels are in dreamlike settings, but if we can go the extra step, rest assured that we have what it takes to surprise you, over and over again, so you’ll keep wondering what’s next?

MAURITIUS • RÉUNION • MALDIVES • CHINA • TURKEY • VIETNAM • U.A.E

LUX_Emirates_Ice Cream_Issue Feb17_Eng.indd 1 1/12/17 4:28 PM A collection of stories from around the world

The King of Napoli 38

A view from the window The September issue 47 56 MAIN

OS79_037 Main.indd 37 8/22/17 4:03 PM The

KinG of

How Diego MaraDona Took Napoli to tHe Serie a tiTle, upset The Mafia, left tHe ciTy iN disgrace anD reTurNed as its favouriTe SoN

by gary evans

OS79_038-045 Maradona.indd 38 8/22/17 4:04 PM OS79_038-045 Maradona.indd 39 8/22/17 4:04 PM maradona

in the morning. Diego Maradona and his entourage tumble out of a restaurant. He’s celebrating. He’s just helped Napoli qualify for the 1989 Uefa Cup final. Maradona dances, sings in the street. An old woman who lives nearby opens her window and tells him in no uncertain terms to shut up: “Who the hell do you think you are,” she says, “the owner of Naples?” Maradona looks up at the old woman, turns on the charm. He smiles and sings his name the way football fans have been singing his name for years: “I’m Mara- But all that is forgotten now. Walk around the streets of Naples dooooona.” The old woman recognises him now. She claps her and you see his image everywhere. Shops sell all kinds of Maradona hands and blows him a big, long kiss. merchandise. Massive murals of Maradona cover sides of buildings. Maradona helped his side win the Uefa Cup that year and Bars keep shrines to Maradona. Some places display a patron saint a second league title the year after that. It completed the most for protection but just as many display the face of Maradona. And successful period in Napoli’s history, which began with a famous beneath his face it’s always the same word: dios. Maradona isn’t the league and cup double in 1987. owner of Naples. He’s a demigod. But how did it happen? When he left Naples, it was in disgrace. He missed training, then “Maradona singlehandedly did what the people of Naples had he missed matches. He fell out with the players, the manager, the been praying for their whole lives,” says the author Jimmy Burns. president. He piled on weight and had very public affairs. He fell “He was a redeeming god who would help them get their own out of favour with the mafia. During a big game he asked to be back on the north.” Burns spent a lot of time in Naples writing substituted and the people of Naples finally lost their patience. In his book Maradona: The Hand of God. He told me the story about 1991, he received a 15-month ban from football for failing a drugs Diego dancing in the street. He says the city’s obsession with test. Maradona was done. Maradona is tied to its own obsession with death. The Rough Guides book describes it as “one of the most superstitious on Earth – and in some ways, the most cultish”. So 30 years after that first title win and with the man himself in town

For more football legends, check out Sport TV on ice. This month catch Football’s Greatest: Series 3, which focuses on Italian players , and amongst others. Channel 1214 on ice Digital Widescreen.

| 40 | | 41 |

OS79_038-045 Maradona.indd 40 8/22/17 4:04 PM diego

They gave the skulls names, placed them in wooden boxes and told stories about their lives, stories they claimed came to them in dreams. People adopted the skulls. A cult developed, the Cult of the Dead. This continued right up until 1969, when a cardinal decided it was getting a bit too weird and closed down the cemetery. It is said some older Neapolitans still worship the skulls. Naples’ next great cult was the cult of Maradona. “He became sanctified,” says Burns. “Venerated. Maradona the saint. The to accept honorary citizenship, I visited Naples to find out how church of Maradona. It’s something you Maradona redeemed himself. see manifested in Latin countries where you have a deeply rooted I took an apartment in the Centro Storico district. The owner religious culture, particularly a Catholic one. You believe in miracles wasn’t too bothered about football but she told me about a and you believe in saints and suddenly you empathise with this place that would help me better understand Naples’ supernatural person and elevate him to a mythical level.” Burns says because of side – the Fontanelle cemetery, an ancient quarry carved into his own background – growing up in a poor, “paralegal world” – the Materdei Hill which, for hundreds of years, served as an Maradona easily fitted in with life in Naples – and, adds Burns, the underground tomb for people who couldn’t afford a funeral. Camorra, the Italian mafia-style syndicate which was then rife. Cool air came floating out of the entrance, like opening a fridge Maradona grew up in Villa Fiorita, a tough suburb of Buenos on a hot day. It was dark inside. Orange floor lights sent shadows Aires. “My parents were humble working folk,” he wrote in his creeping up the walls. Tibias and fibulas and chunks of spinal autobiography. The 10 members of his family lived in three rooms column piled up on the floor. Staring at me, hollow-eyed and with no real bathroom or running water, except the rain that fell dusty, were thousands and thousands of skulls. The skulls that still through the roof. As Maradona put it: “You got wetter inside than had their jawbones seemed to grin. In one chamber, the sun came out.” As a toddler, Maradona once got lost in the dark and fell into in slantwise through a glassless window; the motes of dust floated the cesspit. His uncle saved him, shouting: “Diegito, keep your head and glittered in the light. Not so long ago, worshippers visited above the s***.” these skulls, cleaned them, cared for them, prayed to them.

| 40 | | 41 |

OS79_038-045 Maradona.indd 41 8/22/17 4:04 PM diego maradona

Holding his daughter Dalma after winning Napoli’s first Serie A title in 1987; a mural on the streets

His earliest memories are football. He slept with a ball hugged to his chest. As a boy, shirtless, barefooted, he ran errands playing keepy-uppy. If he didn’t have a ball then he kicked an orange or anything else roughly spherical. At his first football trial aged nine years old, Maradona was so good that the coach suspected he was actually a short adult. Maradona made his professional debut for Argentinos Juniors at just 15. He spent five years with the Buenos Aires club, scoring more than 100 goals before moving across the city for a season with Boca Juniors. In 1982 Maradona transferred to Barcelona for a then world record fee of US$7.6 million. His time in Catalonia wasn’t all bad but it started poorly and ended catastrophically. Maradona became the first Barcelona player applauded off the pitch by fans of bitter rivals Real Madrid. The 1984 Copa del Rey, This extended to football. Three teams, all from the north, however, which Barcelona lost, escalated into one of the biggest, dominated : Juventus, Inter Milan and AC Milan. No team south maddest brawls ever seen in a major tournament. Maradona of the Italian Peninsula had ever won the country’s highest league. was in the middle of it all, kneeing an Athletico Bilbao player and Then Diego Armando Maradona arrived and turned the country knocking him clean out. Maradona was done in Spain. upside down. Juventus fancied Diego. But Napoli president Corrado Ferlaino It almost didn’t happen, according to Burns. Deadline day was liked the idea of outbidding the Turin club and the Fiat tycoon who Friday, June 29 and new transfers had to be registered with the owned it. It would represent economic independence from the Italian league authorities in Milan. Ferlaino had an employee deliver Italian establishment. Ferlaino saw buying Maradona as an act of an envelope containing three names, none of which were Diego sticking it to the north. Maradona. When on Monday the authorities opened this envelope it Italy was made up of two economies. The north was and always contained just one name, Diego Maradona. Someone had switched had been far richer than the south. Many initiatives to support the the envelopes. Who had the power to do this? The Camorra for south failed through corruption, wastefulness and mismanagement. one, the Neapolitan mafia. The rumour was they might even have Unemployment was higher in the south, organised crime more contributed to the transfer fee. widespread. The north saw the south as a financial drain and However it went down, the deal was done. US$10.48 million resented it – so much so that during Maradona’s time in Italy, later, Maradona flew by helicopter into the Stadio San Paolo in several political parties campaigned for northern independence. Naples and landed on the pitch for his big unveiling. Streamers streamed. Fireworks excited the 75,000 paying fans into a frenzy, but when supporters napoli president couldn’t see Maradona through the swarming photographers, they demanded he do the whole thing again. He came back out onto Corrado Ferlaino the pitch, through the tunnel this time. One newspaper wrote that the city lacks “a liked the idea of outbidding mayor, houses, schools, buses, employment and sanitation” but came to the conclusion Juventus to Maradona. he saw that “none of this matters because we have Maradona”. The saviour had arrived. it as sticking it to the

north| 42 | | 43 |

OS79_038-045 Maradona.indd 42 8/22/17 4:04 PM diego maradona

Greeted by 75,000 fans after signing for Napoli on July 5, 1984

Maradona promised teammates that within a couple of years they would win the league. Napoli finished eighth in his first season and third the season after that. But new players and a new manager did what Maradona always wanted: built the team around him. Then he went away to the World Cup. Maradona’s personal life was in bits before Mexico ’86. His extramarital affairs were big news in Italy, which gave family-first Neapolitans doubts about their idol. People speculated about his involvement with the mafia. He sacked his agent and lifelong friend Jorge Cyterszpiler. His weight was up and down as he struggled with drugs. But from start to finish he dominated the World Cup, scoring five goals and setting up just as many. He returned to Naples at the peak of his power. The ball seemed to stick to his left foot. He was squat. He had a low centre of gravity that made him unstoppable at high speed. He scored from obscene angles. He saw things others couldn’t, he saw things before they happened. He made things happen.

| 42 | | 43 |

OS79_038-045 Maradona.indd 43 8/22/17 4:05 PM diego maradona

some places Display a patron saInt outside for protection but just as many display the face of DIeGo maraDona

| 44 | | 45 |

OS79_038-045 Maradona.indd 44 8/22/17 4:05 PM diego maradona

He scored directly from corners. He could smack the ball MaraDona violently into the top corner from a free kick and could nurse the ball delicately over the line after rounding every player on in the MidDle east the pitch. Maradona in top gear took the game and turned it Diego MaraDona sees himself as a into something else, a greater thing. son of the Uae, says foUrfoUrtwo “There’s a flow in football,” says writer Simon Critchley. “When arabia editor ali KhaleD you watch a game, you submit to that flow. You don’t watch it for the easy pay-off. It’s much more meditative. Football is a way of ordinary working class people, particularly men, enjoying an aesthetic spectacle. It’s not just about winning. It’s about the formal pleasure of watching these bodies in formation in movement. Football is a kind of working class ballet.” Critchley’s new book about football is titled exactly that, Working- Class Ballet. Maradona was certainly capable of engineering these kind of moments. But it still doesn’t explain why Naples still loves him after all these years and despite all his failings. Why do Neapolitans born long after he left the club idolise him? “Football always seemed better in the past,” says Critchley. “The “When Diego Maradona took over as manager thing about football is it gives us a of Al Wasl in 2011, few would have imagined he nostalgic relationship with the past, would still be living in the UAE six years later. which isn’t all bad. It’s solace and it’s Although his one season in charge of the a comfort.” Dubai club was unsuccessful, he had found a Juventus started the 1986-87 season as defending champions. place he could call home and has since held an guided the Turin side to a cabinet full of trophies ambassadorial role for Dubai Sports Council, in the 1980s, during which time the Frenchman picked up the launched football reality television show The Ballon d’Or – the European Footballer of the Year award – three Victorious and supported the development of times in a row. They called him Le Roi – The King. Platini would football in the UAE. retire at the end of the season. For him, there would be no After a surprise return to Emirati domestic fairytale ending. The king was to be booted off his throne and football this summer as coach of First Division replaced with a deity – only with a mop of black hair instead of side Fujairah, expect Maradona’s love affair a crown. with the country to last even longer – should he Eight games into the season, Maradona’s Napoli visited Platini’s achieve promotion at the first time of asking.” Juventus. Both were unbeaten in the league and both had been knocked out of European competitions. Juventus went 1-0 up. Then Maradona turned it on. A 3-1 win put Napoli top of the table. Naples started to believe. They would ultimately win the man crammed into his own persona. They both believe in angels, league by three points,and the Coppa Italia to go along with it. in saints, in divine intervention. Both are chaotic and flawed and One night in Naples, I got a bit rowdy myself. I was eating pizza both are all the more loveable for it. They were a perfect match. and drinking wine in a restaurant on the street. I was talking to a Maradona returned to Naples this summer and the city made Neapolitan man when an old woman wandered over to the table. him an honorary citizen. It marks 30 years since a home draw She shouted, gesticulated. In my mind she was shouting: “Who the with Fiorentina sealed Napoli’s first ever title, the south’s first ever hell do you think you are, the owner of Naples?” title, when the whole city exploded in sky blue. The parties went The man translated. She was only asking if I liked Naples but in on and on. In a post-match interview, asked what Napoli means to a typically theatrical Neapolitan way. I gave her my best grin. I said him, Maradona said, “It’s my home. It’s my home.” I did. Very much. She nodded before I’d even answered: “Beautiful In true Neapolitan style, a funeral was held for every other Naples,’ she said, already walking away. ‘Beautiful Naples.” team in the league. Coffins decorated in the colours of Juventus, Like many places that have little, the people of Naples put Inter Milan, and AC Milan paraded through the city, a priest everything into having a good time. They are almost pathologically blessed them and they were burned. From their death the cult of friendly. Naples is a city crammed into itself the way Maradona is a Maradona was born. Naples had a new shrine.

| 44 | | 45 |

OS79_038-045 Maradona.indd 45 8/22/17 4:05 PM

A view from the Window

A landscape unique to a city or country is never more apparent than when seen from above, when you’re flying in to land and experience it firsthand. This project – all taken through aeroplane windows – is the result of a life well travelled

words and images: peter hendrie

| 47 |

OS79_047-055 ViewfromtheWindow.indd 47 8/22/17 5:46 PM A view from THe window

I’ve been photographing from the windows of commercial jets for a long time; as far back as the 1970s and early 1980s, when I did some work with a small regional airline that flew into remote locations in Far North Queensland’s Cape York Peninsula and the islands of the Torres Straits. This airline flew these Douglas DC-3 planes really low because they weren’t pressurised. They had very large windows that were great to shoot out of and it was one of the few chances to get up in the air and photograph things from a different perspective.

A few years later I would fly a lot between Tokyo and Sydney so I would get specific seats, at the back of the plane on the left side, to photograph the sunrise over the Pacific Ocean. The idea really evolved over many years, shooting a few images from commercial planes every so often, sometimes from remote locations where you couldn’t hire small planes or helicopters such as the Solomon Islands or the Kingdom of Tonga.

It’s really only in the last three years that it has become a project in its own right something that I plan and work on. It happened because my son moved to Washington DC. My wife is originally from California and has family there so I started flying across the US from LA or San Francisco to DC and New York. I began photograping the cities, suburbs, desert areas of Arizona and New Mexico, the mountains of the west and the agricultural areas of Kansas and Oklahoma. I got so much material that it formed the beginning of a collection and it’s now

something I’ve been working on fully. Previous page: Singapore This page: crop circles, Kansas, US

| 48 | | 49 |

OS79_047-055 ViewfromtheWindow.indd 48 8/22/17 5:46 PM A view from THe window

| 48 | | 49 |

OS79_047-055 ViewfromtheWindow.indd 49 8/22/17 5:46 PM Sharjah Museums.pdf 1 4/19/17 4:21 PM

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K A view from THe window

Top: Solomon Islands Right: Czech Republic

Some of my favourite shots are of the US. The deserts and arid regions of Arizona, New Mexico and Utah with the Colorado River, the Grand Canyon, the Painted Desert and surrounding areas that are wonderful to see from the high elevation. I also like the agricultural patterns of the Vietnamese rice paddies and Spanish olive and citrus orchards. There are the Romanian, Czech, German and northeast England shots, too, with their wheat, canola and sunflower fields.

The city shots near airports that I take when landing and taking off look good and are from locations that would probably be hard to fly in as the airspace around these locations is heavily restricted. These images make a nice series when placed next to each other, with their own characteristics and architecture.

Check out View from Above, one of the largest aerial filming projects ever conducted using unmanned aerial vehicles. Emirates and Boeing paired up to sponsor the project, which filmed in 18 destinations on five continents. Showing now on channel 1328 on ice Digital Widescreen.

| 44 | | 51 |

OS79_047-055 ViewfromtheWindow.indd 51 8/22/17 5:46 PM A view from THe window

Dubai, UAE

It’s not easy shooting out of an aeroplane window You take what you can get when taking photographs from commercial planes. It’s very different from hiring a helicopter or small plane. For a start you’re shooting through a sheet of Plexiglas that gives you a soft image. This was something that I found difficult to work with in the early days but have recently incorporated it and it can be an advantage as the image looks very painterly. Also you’re working from a much higher spot than when you are in small planes, helicopters and today with drones. This makes for patterns that are much more visible.

| 52 | | 53 |

OS79_047-055 ViewfromtheWindow.indd 52 8/22/17 5:46 PM Alchemy Project NITRO.pdf 1 8/17/17 5:00 PM

DESTINATION PARTNER THE BIGGEST ACTION SPORTS SHOW IN THE WORLD RETURNS, WITH A BRAND NEW SHOW

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

6 OCTOBER 2017 | ABU DHABI YAS MARINA CIRCUIT , YAS ISLAND BOOK NOW EXCLUSIVELY FROM WWW.TIXBOX.COM TICKET PRICES INCLUDE ACCESS TO FERRARI WORLD ABU DHABI FOR MORE INFO CONTACT US ON [email protected] | OR CALL : +971 56 675 68 34

ORGANIZED BY OFFICIAL PARTNERS A view from THe window

| 54 | | 55 |

OS79_047-055 ViewfromtheWindow.indd 54 8/22/17 5:46 PM A view from THe window

It can be difficult to get a suitable window seat away from the wings and the engine fumes, and to get a window that’s not badly scratched and is positioned next to your seat. Sometimes you can be in between two windows, which can make it difficult to use either.

Economy seats right down the back are often the best but the seats in front of the wings are also good.

Reflections are a problem so I tend to wear dark shirts and avoid stripes and bright colours. I also use rubber lens hoods so I can place the lens on the window and reduce reflections.

Sometimes everything happens right but then all you see out of the window is thick cloud. I sit back and try and enjoy the flight and, who knows, the clouds might clear and there’s a great shot there. I guess it’s a little like fishing: get everything right and in place and then be patient and wait.

For more information on Peter Hendrie’s ongoing project, Colorado River, Arizona, US visit peterhendriephotography.com

| 54 | | 55 |

OS79_047-055 ViewfromtheWindow.indd 55 8/22/17 5:46 PM The September issue

OS79_056-062 Fashion Week.indd 56 8/22/17 5:48 PM From Rome to Rio, almost every major city on earth hosts a fashion week – each highlighting local and international design talent. But as the fashion calendar gets ever busier, could the concept of the show, barely a century old, be about to change forever? Words by Sean Williams

t’s hard to imagine fashion By 1903 American designers stars such as Oscar de la Renta and without the runway shows had begun to take note, and the Pauline Trigere. we see each year to signal country’s first fashion show was Early fashion shows were heavily new waves of collections. The staged by New York City’s Ehrlich policed by designers desperate not sight of models streaming Brothers department store. It spurred to allow their creations to be copied. Idown a catwalk, assailed by flash lenses a nationwide interest in holding “Fashion pirates” were a staple of the and the vacant gazes of industry heads fashion shows, as rival stores saw a industry, and could sketch a design in and celebrities, has become as staple a chance to drag in industry insiders New York then sell it to buyers all over style diorama as the starched collars of and consumers. “In the early 20th the world. To put a stop to it, many Karl Lagerfeld or Anna Wintour’s bob. century, the desire to see clothing in shows resorted to banning sketchpads In reality, the history of the fashion motion flourished on both sides of – something to which some shows still show barely stretches back further the Atlantic,” explains fashion historian actually adhere. than a hundred years. And few Caroline Evans. “Models tangoed, By 1954 Vogue editor Edna have chronicled it. “The omission is slithered, swaggered and undulated Woodman Chase noted that, “Now curious,” says Slate’s Amanda Fortini. before customers in couture houses that fashion shows have become a “The fashion show is not only the and department stores.” As it turned way of life… a lady is hard put to have promotional linchpin of a multibillion- out, America’s chance to shine would lunch, or sip a cocktail, in any smart dollar industry, it was also central to come during one of the world’s hotel or store front from New York to the development of the American darkest moments. Until 1940 the Dallas to San Francisco without having department store – and to the rise of world’s designers had turned to lissome young things… swaying down American consumer culture.” France – in particular the ateliers of a runway six inches above her nose.” Shows at the turn of the 20th century Paris – for their style inspiration. Then Soon the fashion show framework bore little resemblance to their trippy, the German army invaded and the was exported all over the world and technicolour modern counterparts. country was off-limits. today it is a global phenomenon, The concept began in 1800s France, as No longer could designers, buyers bringing billions of dollars, and millions designers began paying “mannequins” or socialites study French clothing. of jobs to cities that now rely on it for to wear their clothing at society events, New York publicist Eleanor Lambert huge portions of their economy. which would be noticed and reported saw an opportunity. In 1943 she New York City might just be the on by the media. This soon evolved into organised a “Press Week” in an king of this fashion-economic complex. fashion “parades”, which gathered many attempt to showcase American design In the 1970s and ’80s, when the city designers together to showcase their unmoored from its European rivals. was a depressed, economic mess, New wares to fans, high society and more Her show, which continued into the York’s designers and fashionistas began than a gaggle of journalists. 1950s, gave breakthroughs to future hosting their own shows in loft spaces,

OS79_056-062 Fashion Week.indd 57 8/22/17 5:48 PM fashion week

Karl Lagerfeld

Chanel’s space-inspired runway show at Paris’ Grand Palais

old warehouses, apartments and anything else they could find. Eventually the craze became so popular that designers were hosting huge crowds in cramped, unsafe spaces. In the early 1990s, after a series of mishaps and close shaves, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) sought a single space in which to house all of the city’s most exciting catwalk shows. By 1993 New York Fashion Week was created in its current guise. The event now attracts more than 230,000 people annually, and generates a little under a billion dollars for the local around US$8 to US$9 billion per year fashion event in Turkey that brings all economy. It makes more money than from its style showcases. the leading fashion pioneers together,” the US Open tennis and the NYC Recent additions to the show says fashion director Banu Bolen. Marathon. calendar, including African Fashion “The event showcases emerging as New York congresswoman Carolyn Week in Lagos, Nigeria, and the twice- well as established design talent to an Maloney has said: “Fashion doesn’t yearly China Fashion Week in Beijing, international audience.” just make us look good, it helps our have shown how fashion can not just Controversy over the clothing nation’s bottom line.” She was not bolster a city’s style credentials, but put showcased in Istanbul has even led wrong. America spends US$380 billion it on the fashion map altogether. They to the emergence of a rival show, on fashion apparel per year, and the also show how, as the global economy Istanbul Modest Fashion Week, which industry currently employs more than has shifted and diversified, fashion is aims to highlight the latest in Muslim 1.8 million Americans. not simply the reserve of a handful of attire, a market set to grow to US$327 London Fashion Week is a smaller wealthy cities scattered across Europe billion by 2020. Designers include the affair, but still a major boost for its and North America. UAE’s Annah Hariri and Rabia Z and city’s economy: 2016’s edition brought Other major money-spinning Sweden’s Iman Aldebe. 105,000 visitors and US$350 million cities include Berlin, São Paulo, Los The modern bible for fashion show in revenue. Paris relies hugely on its Angeles, Sydney and Istanbul, whose fans is the Fashion Calendar, produced catwalk shows. Last year Paris Fashion Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, albeit by the CFDA and first created by Week brought in US$1.41 billion in a newcomer, contributes much to publisher Ruth Finley 65 years ago. revenue. The city has six shows per the city’s economy. “Mercedes-Benz Each year thousands of die-hard year, meaning that the city makes Fashion Week Istanbul is the official influencers and industry professionals

| 58 |

OS79_056-062 Fashion Week.indd 58 8/22/17 5:48 PM

Canadian Univcrop.pdf 1 7/23/17 1:37 PM

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K fashion week

Be a fashion tourist Following the style calendar means visiting some of the greatest cities – and architecture – in the world

consult the calendar, as they look to follow the best fashion trends around the world. Katherine Ormerod, editor at London-based Work Work Work, is one of them. Shows can be “about so much more than the clothes”, she says. “The most special transport you to another world, with a sense of fantasy and imagination. As fashion changes so often, designers are uniquely placed to make a commentary on contemporary 1. Tempelhof AirporT, Berlin life, acting as a barometer of culture Tempelhof is a giant airport that ceased operating in 2008, and change in an ultra-responsive way.” whose sweeping, alabaster facade was a creation of the Nazi “By drawing inspiration from across government. It is also home to the influential Bread and Butter the creative industries, you often are fashion show. The airport acquired added legend in 1948 when, provided with a strong message through under Soviet control, Allied planes dropped thousands of tonnes the theatre of a show, which goes far of supplies in the Berlin Airlift. Today a huge public space home to beyond dresses and shoes,” Ormerod skaters and barbecuers, the airport hangar is a perfect place for adds. “It’s that poignancy and ability to navel gazing (and catwalk shows). provide a mirror on our times that can make a fashion show so special.” As with most things in the fashion world, the history of its shows brims with moments of excess, shock and admiration. Some of the most iconic shows include Vivienne Westwood’s 1993/94 collection, whose oversized clothing caused Naomi Campbell to take a tumble; and Dutch duo Viktor and Rolf’s fall 1999 collection, which eschewed a traditional catwalk display in favour of a single model, Maggie Rizer, who was dressed onstage by the designers. Vogue writer Andre Leon 2. SomerSeT houSe, london Talley described it as “the Viagra of Located right in the heart of London’s West End, Somerset House couture week”. has hosted some of the British capital’s most elaborate shows But as the fashion calendar since its conception in 1776. More recently, the neoclassical congests, is the very concept of mansion has found a home on London’s cultural scene, playing the fashion show in peril? Vogue host to live music concerts, modern art exhibits and, of course, editor-in-chief Anna Wintour recently London Fashion Week. Worth a visit for its grand design and stated that, for young designers, “an pretty fountain garden, the building is a perfect place to watch interesting creative presentation is models strut by.

Check out Lifestyle TV on ice for channels dedicated to fashion including Fashion One, Only Fashion Network and Videofashion.

| 60 | | 61 |

OS79_056-062 Fashion Week.indd 61 8/22/17 5:48 PM fashion week

3. Sydney Opera HOuSe, Sydney It’s only fitting that one of the world’s most iconic buildings should serve as one of its city’s premier style venues – if only, usually, as a backdrop to open-air shows. Next year the building, conceived by Danish architect Jørn Utzon, celebrates its 45th birthday, and it’s never been busier, hosting more than 1,500 Vogue editor-in-chief, Anna Wintour events annually. In 2007 its shell-shaped expressionist design was designated a Unesco World Heritage site. Which, even for the fashion industry, makes for a rather exciting place to call home. to viewers – and some have even questioned whether in-person shows will soon be obsolete. “I think they are defunct in the sense of their original intention: to show bi-annual collections to a small, elite group of editors for dissemination to the masses,” says Ormerod. “These days they are part of a brand’s marketing machine, which certainly means there’s a heightened sense of commercialisation.” But Ormerod believes that the fashion show is still an essential part of the fashion industry – and the ability to experience fashion up close and 4. Grand palaiS, pariS personal is still an inimitable part of the Paris’ Grand Palais is as much a part of its fabric as the Eiffel Tower or the industry. “The fashion show continues Champs-Elysees, the famed street at the foot of which it sits. Inaugurated in to offer a creative platform to express 1900 for the Universal Expo, the glass-vaulted building has seen many uses – ideas and aspirations and nothing from war hospital to sports stadium, and is one of Paris’ leading fashion venues. can ever mimic the power of a live Karl Lagerfeld, creative director at Chanel, has made the Palais his fashion week performance – just look at the music home of choice in recent years, constructing casinos, an airport terminal and, for industry and the boom in live tours,” his 2010-11 fall show, a giant, gold lion. she says. “The attention and buzz that a just as effective as a fashion show”, fashion show itself appears to be fashion show can now generate on parroting a growing call for fans and under threat. social media and the content that can professionals to swerve the catwalk in Alexander McQueen became the be created around a show now make favour of more cutting-edge mediums. first fashion designer to live-stream them worth the investment, especially Certainly shows have become more a show back in 2009. Technology has as fashion is such a crowded market accessible as their organisers clamour raced on apace since then. Balenciaga, and it’s so difficult to get your voice for increased external audiences and Hussein Chalayan and Dior have all heard,” Ormerod adds. advertising dollars. But today, with 360-degree-filmed recent shows “I would think that, for any big the advent of 360-degree filming – in Dior’s case combining it with luxury brand, the fashion show isn’t and virtual reality, the essence of the 3D-printed glasses made available going anywhere imminently.”

| 62 | | 63 |

OS79_056-062 Fashion Week.indd 62 8/22/17 5:48 PM Under the Patronage of His Highness Sheikh Mansour bin Zayed Al Nahyan Deputy Minister and Minister of Presidential Affairs

20.09.2017 - 19.03.2018 SHEIKH ZAYED GRAND MOSQUE, ABU DHABI Hilya by Hasan Rida, in jali thuluth and naskh scripts. Rida was a student of both Mehmed Sefik Bey in jali thuluth and naskh scripts. Hilya by Hasan Rida, © HE Mohammed al-Murr Collection Turkey. 1905/6 CE, AH, 1323 Mustafa Izzet Efendi. and Kazasker

MOAJ_Ad_OpenSkies_14AUG.indd 1 7/18/17 3:24 PM Lootah.pdf 1 6/21/17 12:43 PM

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K Essential news and information from Emirates

Twice daily to Brussels 67

Inside Emirates Route Map 70 82 BRIEFING | 64 |

OS79_065-089 Briefing.indd 65 8/22/17 6:10 PM arete invest.pdf 1 8/23/17 4:26 PM

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K EmiratE s nE ws

EmiratEs and flydubai join forcEs

Emirates and flydubai have unveiled an The two airlines will also further develop extensive partnership that will see the their hub at Dubai International, aligning two Dubai-based airlines join forces to their systems and operations to ensure a offer customers unrivalled travel options. seamless travel experience through the Both airlines will continue to be managed ultra-modern airport. independently but will leverage each other’s HH Sheikh Ahmed bin Saeed Al network to scale up their operations and Maktoum, Chairman and Chief Executive of accelerate growth. Emirates Group and Chairman of flydubai, The innovative partnership goes beyond said, “This is an exciting and significant code-sharing and includes integrated development for Emirates, flydubai and doublE daily network collaboration with coordinated Dubai aviation. Both airlines have grown scheduling. The new model will give independently and successfully over the for brussEls flydubai customers seamless connectivity to years, and this new partnership will unlock Emirates’ worldwide destinations spanning the immense value that the complementary Emirates is to introduce an additional six continents. For Emirates’ customers, it models of both companies can bring to daily flight to Brussels in order to cater opens up flydubai’s robust regional network. consumers, each airline and to Dubai.” to the growing demand for travel to the Belgian capital. The new flight will complement the EnhancEd sErvicE to Khartoum airline’s existing schedule and provide a twice-daily service to customers from Emirates has increased the frequency October 29 onward. of flights between Dubai and Khartoum Emirates has carried more than half a from five to seven a week. million passengers between Dubai and Offering more than 700 additional Brussels since launching operations on seats each way per week, the two new September 5, 2014. flights will enhance connectivity from As well as providing choice and most cities in the Middle East, Asia and convenience for both Belgian customers Americas. This includes popular cities and inbound visitors, Emirates’ operations served by Emirates’ A380s such as Kuwait, over recent years have made a positive Beijing, Bangkok, Hong Kong, Kuala impact on Belgium’s tourism, trade, Lumpur, Shanghai, Seoul, Mumbai, New investment and employment. A keenness York and Washington DC. to build on its already significant economic “Emirates’ decision to commit two contribution comfortably justifies the additional scheduled flights a week is a addition of a second daily service between clear indication of customer demand for the two cities, both to meet existing our award-winning products and services,” demand and to stimulate new growth. said Orhan Abbas, Emirates’ Senior Vice The new year-round flight will also President, Commercial Operations Africa. enhance Belgium’s global long-haul “Our expanded schedule will provide our Dubai hub. These additional flights will connectivity, offering passengers travelling customers with greater flexibility in their also further support Sudan’s economy.” from Brussels the chance to reach more travel plans and allow more options for As with Emirates’ current flights than 70 Emirates’ destinations in the them to connect seamlessly to other flights between the two cities, the new services Middle East, Africa, Asia and Australasia. on Emirates’ extensive global network via will also operate a Boeing 777.

| 67 |

OS79_065-089 Briefing.indd 67 8/22/17 6:10 PM EmiratE s nE ws

new arrivals for emirates’ fly with me collection

Four new animals have joined the Emirates Fly With Me range of toys for children, including Brett the bear from North America, ChaoChao the Chinese alligator, Mia the manta ray and Savannah the elephant from sub-Saharan Africa. Available on board now, the animals are for children up to the age of five and are featured across three product lines: the Travel Buddy, which comes with a plastic toggle allowing the toy to be hung in a car, pram or cot; the Carry Buddy, a dual purpose toy and blanket and the Magnetic Sketcher. In addition to the Fly With Me Animals, the Lonely Planet activity bags – aimed at children aged six to 12 – have been updated too. With the themes Worldly Wonders, Foodie Planet, Timezones and Small Things, they offer fun travel content for older kids.

emirates enhances service to cairo

Emirates is to increase capacity on its services to Egypt with the launch of four additional scheduled flights every week to Cairo. The move will increase the number of flights between the two cities to three per day and take the total number of weekly Emirates flights serving Cairo to 21. The new flights will commence from October 29. “Emirates is committed to offering customers more flight choices, which will enable them to seamlessly connect to points across the Middle East, Asia, the a380 upgrade for moscow Americas, Africa and Australia – including Bahrain, Muscat, Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, The two daily flights between Dubai and Since Emirates started flying from Hong Kong, New York, San Francisco, Cape Moscow will soon both be operated by its Dubai hub to Moscow in 2003, the Town, Entebbe, Melbourne and Sydney – the iconic Emirates A380. airline has carried more than four while experiencing the most comfortable Commencing October 1, the twice- million passengers on the route. and entertaining experience in the sky,” daily Airbus A380 service will significantly The move to the A380 will result said Orhan Abbas, Emirates’ Senior Vice boost seat capacity to and from Russia in an increase of more than 1,000 President Commercial Operations Africa. in order to meet customer demand. It seats per week and clearly demonstrates “We will continue to invest in Egypt, will also allow multiple A380-to-A380 Emirates’ commitment to the Russian empowering the local economy and connections to a wide range of leisure and market, further supporting tourism helping it expand its business and tourism business destinations, including Bangkok, and trade links between the Middle presence.” Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Hong Kong and East and countries connected by the The new flights will be operated by a Johannesburg, as well as Mumbai, Sydney, vast Emirates worldwide route network 360-seat Boeing 777-300ER in a three- Auckland, Beijing and São Paulo. to Russia. class configuration.

| 68 | | 69 |

OS79_065-089 Briefing.indd 68 8/22/17 6:10 PM A collection of inspirational quotes from Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan a man who fought for unity, preached equality and transformed the UAE.

‘I had many dreams. I dreamt of our land keeping pace with the growth of the modern world.’

– SHEIKH ZAYED BIN SULTAN AL NAHYAN

available in all major bookstores and at booksarabia.com

#FatherOfOurNation

FOON OPEN SKIES FP.indd 1 4/24/17 11:52 AM INSIDE EMIRATES

RAISE A GLASS Here’s why Emirates’ newly revamped Onboard Lounge is the most popular place at 40,000ft

GO BEHIND THE BAR The numbers that go into the 48 6,000+ 1,300 PARTS Emirates Onboard Lounge... Number of A380 Trained Emirates Make up the A380 destinations bartenders Onboard Lounge

| 70 | | 71 |

OS79_065-089 Briefing.indd 70 8/22/17 6:11 PM InsI de e m I rates the iconic emirates a380 Celebrating nine years of Emirates’ first 14 commercial A380 service Cocktail recipes to choose from

6 Different wines on offer 80m 91,500 Passengers flown Round trip flights

14,193km Longest flight from Dubai to Auckland

18 Different bar snacks are served

26 US$3m+ 1,500+ 23,000+ Guests can enjoy the A380 Onboard A380 pilots A380 cabin crew Lounge at any one time Lounge costs

| 70 | | 71 |

OS79_065-089 Briefing.indd 71 8/22/17 6:11 PM Destination

| 72 | | 73 |

OS79_065-089 Briefing.indd 72 8/22/17 6:11 PM DESTINATION

MOSCOW

Starting October 1, Emirates will add a second daily A380 service to Moscow, so enjoy our guide to Russia’s cosmopolitan capital Moscow has become one of Europe’s most vibrant cities in the post- Square to Russia, both spiritually and geographically. Then there are Perestroika era. Red Square, the Kremlin, Lenin’s tomb – it’s easy to be the remains of the Soviet Union, which are sprinkled throughout the swept away by the sheer scale of Russia’s capital city. city. Some are majestic, such as the city’s metro, which is arguably the It’s a city that lives and breathes history. Medieval churches mingle world’s most beautiful underground rail network – more art gallery with Soviet skyscrapers and all the architectural and artistic reminders than public transit system. of a turbulent and dramatic past. Whichever way you look at it, Moscow is a brash and brilliant city There’s the home of Maxim Gorky, one of the Soviet era’s most and home to some of the most memorable sights in global tourism. important authors; the Museum of the Great Patriotic War, which It is also a sprawling metropolis of more than 10 million people, celebrates the defeat of Germany in 1945 and the icon of Russia itself, with restaurants, bars and nightclubs – particularly on the strip from St Basil’s Cathedral, situated at the southern end of Red Square. Tverskaya to Okhotny Ryad – providing evening entertainment that It’s hard to overestimate the importance of the Kremlin and Red sits well alongside cultural icons such as the Bolshoi Theatre. EAT STAY DO

CAFE PUSHKIN HOTEL METROPOL TRETYAKOV GALLERY Housed in a Baroque mansion on Tverskoy You’d be hard pushed to find a better The main museum of Russian national art, Boulevard, Cafe Pushkin is something to location. Situated opposite Red Square the Tretyakov Gallery is a rumination on behold. Overseen by head chef Andrei and a stone’s throw from the Bolshoi, the country’s contribution to world culture. Makhov, it specialises in meat pies and it’s all about old Russia at the Metropol. Housing everything from the works of old dumplings in the grandest of surroundings. Try Built between 1899 and 1907 in an Art masters such as Ilya Repin to priceless religious the salmon and zander pie served with sour Nouveau style, it has historically been a icons, it was founded by industrialist Pavel cream sauce just to see what you’ve been haunt for kings and queens and oozes both Tretyakov in 1856 and houses the greatest missing out on. tradition and grandeur. collection of Russian fine art in the world. cafe-pushkin.ru metropol-moscow.ru tretyakovgallery.ru

BOLSHOI ARARAT PARK HYATT ST BASIL’S CATHEDRAL The brainchild of Russian restauranteur Just a few minutes’ walk from many The building most synonymous with Russia, Arkady Novikov, the Bolshoi restaurant of Moscow’s iconic landmarks is this no trip to Moscow would be complete serves modern Slavonic food in an stylish hotel renowned for its Armenian- without a trip around striking St Basil’s environment that shouts opulence. Situated themed restaurant and glorious rooftop Cathedral. With its recently restored onion on the southwest corner of Kuznetsky views of central Moscow. With the Bolshoi domes and kaleidoscope of colours, patterns Most and Petrovka, not far from the Bolshoi Theatre across the road and suites and shapes, it’s a masterpiece of Russian Theatre and the cultural highlights of designed by New York architect Tony Chi, architecture and a potent symbol of the Moscow, it’s an elegant, if pricey, experience. it’s a contemporary gem. country’s past and present. novikovgroup.ru moscow.park.hyatt.com +7 495 698 33 04

GRAND CAFE DR ZHIVAGO HILTON MOSCOW LENINGRADSKAYA OLD ARBAT Described as affordable luxury dining with This stunning fusion of Russian Baroque Found in the the historic centre of views of the Kremlin, this relatively new and Orthodox architecture is situated Moscow, Arbat Street is one of the establishment from restaurateur Alexander in one of Moscow’s Seven Sisters, iconic city’s oldest areas and is now a cobbled Rappoport is situated on the ground floor Stalinist high-rises on the skyline. Built in pedestrian precinct lined with shops and of the grand Hotel National. Featuring 1954 as a Soviet hotel, it offers cafes. Dating back to the 16th century, it gastronomic references to the different stages easy access to Red Square and the might be a bit touristy but as a Muscovite of Russian history, expect Georgian-style fried Kremlin. Expect contemporary luxury favourite that’s frequently filled with chicken and quail with porcini mushrooms. and majestic grandeur. portrait artists, poets and musicians, it’s drzhivago.ru hilton.com well worth the visit.

The twice-daily Airbus A380 service begins on October 1 and allows multiple A380-to-A380 connections to a wide range of destinations such as Mauritius, Bangkok, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Hong Kong, Johannesburg, Mumbai, Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Perth, Auckland, Christchurch and São Paulo.

| 72 | | 73 |

OS79_065-089 Briefing.indd 73 8/22/17 6:11 PM COMFORT

COMFORT IN THE AIR To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips. Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time onboard with Emirates today.

SMART TRAVELLER

DRINK TRAVEL WEAR USE SKIN KEEP MAKE SHARPS BOXES PLENTY OF LIGHTLY GLASSES MOISTURISER MOVING YOURSELF Sharps boxes are WATER Carry only the Cabin air is Apply a Exercise your COMFORTABLE available onboard Rehydrate with essential items drier than good quality lower legs and Loosen clothing, all Emirates flights water or juices that you will normal, moisturiser to calf muscles. remove jacket for safe disposal frequently. Drink need during therefore swap ensure your skin This encourages and avoid anything of medical tea and coffee your flight. your contact doesn’t dry out. blood flow. pressing against equipment. Please in moderation. lenses for glasses. your body. ask a member of your cabin crew for more information.

BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY AT THE AIRPORT DURING THE FLIGHT WHEN YOU ARRIVE Consult your doctor Allow yourself plenty of time Chewing and swallowing Try some light exercise before travelling if you for check-in. will help equalise your ear or read if you can’t sleep have any medical concerns Avoid carrying heavy bags pressure during ascent after arrival. about making a long journey through the airport and and descent. or if you suffer from a onto the flight as this can Babies and young respiratory or cardiovascular place the body under passengers may suffer condition. considerable stress. more acutely with popping Plan for the destination – Once through to ears, therefore consider will you need any vaccinations departures try and relax as providing a dummy. or special medications? much as possible. Get as comfortable as Get a good night’s rest possible when resting and before the flight. turn frequently. Eat lightly and sensibly. Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.

| 74 | | 75 |

OS79_065-089 Briefing.indd 74 8/22/17 6:11 PM Open Skies 195x260mm (Yoga Woman english).pdf 1 7/19/17 5:38 PM

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

Concentrate on your wellbeing. Not ours.

A Valiant Life is a philosophy. It is about taking control and making the most of every minute. Our preventive health services help you work towards a better you. We want to see you out enjoying life with no time wasted. From Physiotherapy, Sports Medicine and Orthopedics to Endocrinology, Wellness and more, Valiant Clinic provides a complete array of integrated healthcare services, to ensure you spend more time with loved ones, and less time with us. For a consultation, call 800 VALIANT (8254268)* or visit valiantclinic.com The future of healthcare, today. Now open at CITY WALK.

*within UAE MOH#UK08153 customs & visa information Guide to us customs & immiGration Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle-free as possible.

CUSToMS DECLARATIoN FoRM

All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

ElEctronic SyStEm for travEl authoriSation (ESta) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Program, you must apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) up to 72 hours prior to your departure.

ESta factS: Children and infants require an individual ESTA.

The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending.

A successful ESTA application is valid for two years. However, this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport.

apply onlinE at www.cbp.gov/ESta

nationalitiES EligiblE for thE viSa waivEr*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom**

* SubjEct to changE ** only britiSh citizEnS qualify undEr thE viSa waivEr program.

| 76 | | 77 |

OS79_065-089 Briefing.indd 76 8/22/17 6:11 PM emirates advocates.pdf 1 12/21/16 6:31 PM

CORPORATE & COMMERCIAL LEGAL SERVICES LITIGATION, ARBITRATION & ADR BUSINESS SETUP & COMPANY REGISTRATION OFFSHORE & FREE ZONE COMPANY FORMATION INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY & E-COMMERCE LAWS BANKING, INSURANCE & MARITIME LAWS C REAL ESTATE & CONSTRUCTION LAWS M MEDICAL NEGLIGENCE Y DRAFTING & CONTRACT REVIEWS CM LEGAL TRANSLATION MY DEBT COLLECTION CY TRADEMARK & PATENT REGISTRATION CMY PROTECTION & ENFORCEMENT K

DUBAI EMIRATES TOWERS 14th Floor, Sheikh Zayed Road P.O. Box: 9055, Dubai-UAE T+971 4 330 43 43 F +971 4 330 39 39

ABU DHABI JABEL ALI TEL: +971 2 639 44 46 TEL: +971 4 887 16 79 [email protected] [email protected] SHARJAH INTERNET CITY TEL: +971 6 572 86 66 TEL: +971 4 390 08 20 [email protected] [email protected] RAS AL KHAIMAH TEL: +971 7 204 67 19 [email protected]

UAE | SAUDI ARABIA | QATAR | BAHRAIN | KUWAIT | OMAN customs & visa information Cut the queue at JFK with quiCK ConneCt If you’re connecting through New York JFK, you can avoid long waiting times in US immigration and queues for connecting flights with the Quick Connect service. The US Customs and Border Protection agency created the special service for passengers who have a connecting flight within three hours of arrival at New York JFK.

Follow TheSe STePS:

1 2 3 4

have your boarding card or You’ll be given a Quick After passport clearance, If your bag is tagged to your ticket for your connecting flight Connect card. Continue to the claim your baggage and clear final destination, hand it to ready for the ground staff as Quick Connect queue in the US customs, regardless of your emirates staff at the transfer you exit. Arrivals hall. final destination. counter for your onward flight.

quarantine in australia Australia has strict biosecurity laws, so when you arrive you’ll need to declare certain food, plant or animal items on your Incoming Passenger Card.

You also need to declare equipment or shoes used in rivers and lakes or with soil attached. All aircraft food must be left onboard. Please take particular care when you complete your Incoming Passenger Card – it's a legal document and false declarations may result in a penalty.

quarantine in Japan Japan has strict rules around exposure to livestock and bringing in livestock items. You will need to go to the Animal Quarantine Counter if:

• you have recently been to a livestock farm • are bringing livestock products into Japan • your visit to Japan will involve contact with livestock

The counter is in the baggage claim area. If you’re bringing meat and livestock products into Japan without an import certificate, you must see the animal quarantine officer.

| 78 | | 79 |

OS79_065-089 Briefing.indd 78 8/22/17 6:11 PM pingle.pdf 1 8/23/16 10:05 AM

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K UAE SMART GATE

NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE BE SMART! UAE SMART GATES USE UAE SMART GATE AT DUBAI UAE INTERNATIONAL A A A AIRPORT B B B GO THROUGH IMMIGRATION IN SECONDS AND GET YOUR VISIT TO DUBAI OFF TO A FLYING START

Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed C D F through Dubai International by using UAE Smart Gate. If you hold a machine-readable passport, an E-Gate card or Emirates ID card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds. F  G G  Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International Airport.

USING UAE SMART GATE IS EASY I  I I

J K L  Have your machine-readable passport, E-Gate 1 card or Emirates ID card ready to be scanned L M M 

N N Z N Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, place your E-Gate card or Emirates ID card into the 2 card slot O P Q

OK! Go through the open gate, stand in the blue S M S A S footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan. When finished, the next set of gates will open

3 and you can continue to baggage claim S K S S

REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

To register, just follow the above process and then spend a few moments having S  *UK USA your details validated by an immigration officer. That’s it! Every time you fly to *UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa) Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just minutes after you landed. UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY: IF YOU’RE A UAE RESIDENT • Machine-readable passports from Remember to bring your Emirates ID card next time you’re travelling through DXB the above countries – you’ll be able to speed through passport control in a matter of seconds, without • E-Gate cards paying and without registering. Valid at all Smart Gates, located in Arrivals and • Emirates ID cards Departures across all three terminals at DXB.

| 80 | | 81 |

OS79_065-089 Briefing.indd 80 8/22/17 6:11 PM AMERICAN HOSPITAL DUBAI PLASTIC, RECONSTRUCTIVE AND COSMETIC SURGERY

LOOK BETTER, FEEL BETTER, BE BETTER.

American Hospital Dubai’s new Plastic Surgery Department thrives on the same high standards as the hospital and prides itself on integrity, quality and safety.

We offer a comprehensive plastic, reconstructive, and cosmetic surgery services:

• Hand Surgery (Trauma & Elective) • Burn Repair Surgery • Breast Reconstruction (following mastectomy) • Skin Cancer Management • Cosmetic Surgery (Body, Breast, & Face)

Please visit our website for the complete list of procedures

To book an appointment, please call +971 4 377 5500 or visit www.ahdubai.com MOHAP – AT35647 – 28/10/2017 MOHAP – AT35647

American Hospital Dubai accepts most major health insurance plans, please call (+971) 800 - 5500 ROUTE MAP

| 82 | | 83 |

OS79_065-089 Briefing.indd 82 8/22/17 6:11 PM ROUTE MAP

| 82 | | 83 |

OS79_065-089 Briefing.indd 83 8/22/17 6:11 PM ROUTE MAP *SUSPENDED

| 84 | | 85 |

OS79_065-089 Briefing.indd 84 8/22/17 6:11 PM

ROUTE MAP

| 86 | | 87 |

OS79_065-089 Briefing.indd 86 8/22/17 6:11 PM

FLEET

Our fleet of 265 aircraft includes 251 EMIRATES FLEET passenger aircraft and 14 SkyCargo aircraft

AIRBUS A380-800

2500+

19%

All Emirates A380 aircraft are fitted with Wi-Fi, Mobile Phone and Data Roaming services. A total of 19 (19 per cent) of the A380s are now equipped with Live 98 in fleet. Up to 489-615 passengers. Range of 15,000km. L 72.7m x W 79.8m Television, with more coming soon.

BOEING 777-300ER

up to 2500+

77%

105 (77 per cent) of Emirates Boeing 777- 300ERs are equipped with Live Television, 136 in fleet. Up to 354-442 passengers. Range of 14,594km. L 73.9m x W 64.8m Wi-Fi, Mobile Phone and Data Roaming services, with more coming soon.

BOEING 777-200LR

2500+

10 in fleet. Up to 266 passengers. Range of 17,446km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m

EMIRATES SKYCARGO BOEING 777F

The most environmentally friendly freighter operated today, with the lowest fuel burn of any comparably-sized cargo aircraft. Along with its wide main-deck cargo door which can accommodate oversized consignments, it is also capable of carrying up to 103 tonnes of cargo 13 in fleet. Range of 9,260km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m non-stop on 10-hour sector lengths.

| 88 | | 89 |

OS79_065-089 Briefing.indd 88 8/22/17 6:11 PM FLEET

CONNECTIVITY AND ENTERTAINMENT SERVICES AVAILABLE

#

Live Television Wi-Fi Mobile Phone Data Roaming Channels of in-flight GSM GPRS entertainment

BOEING 777-300

1500+

6 in fleet. Up to 364 passengers. Range of 11,029km. L 73.9m x W 60.9m

AIRBUS A319

550+

The Emirates Executive Private Jet takes our exceptional service to the highest level to fly you personally around the world. Fly up to 19 guests in the utmost comfort of our 1 in fleet. Up to 19 passengers. Range of 7,000km. L 33.84m x W 34.1m customised A319 aircraft with the flexibility of private jet travel. Further information at emirates-executive.com

EMIRATES SKYCARGO BOEING 747 ERF

This aircraft is capable of carrying up to 117 tonnes. The deckside cargo door, with a height of approximately three metres, allows the uplift of oversized shipments that cannot be accommodated in the belly-hold of passenger 1 in fleet. Range of 9,204km. L 70.6m x W 64.4m aircraft. The nose door allows the carriage of long pieces.

For more information: emirates.com/ourfleet Aircraft numbers accurate at the time of going to press

| 88 | | 89 |

OS79_065-089 Briefing.indd 89 8/22/17 6:11 PM street knowledge the Guide If you’re going to Mumbai, best take advice from someone in the know. We asked actress, singer and former Miss World Priyanka Chopra for her highlights

The perfecT day i Think our nighTlife the Four Seasons Spa in outside New York. I love pizza in MuMbai? will surprise you Mumbai and book in for a and while my metabolism is Perhaps start your day at Chor If you head to the Colaba area traditional Indian massage. still strong, I intend to take Bazaar, which is a big tourist there are so many places to You really won’t regret it. advantage of it. attraction and one of the most choose at night. I really think legendary markets in the city. first-time visitors will be amazed MuMbai is known if you’re looking Then head over to the famous at how cool the area is. for iTs greaT for a faMi ly day Gateway of India before dinner sTreeT food The Elephanta Caves on and drinks in the Colaba area recovery The nexT I love chicken biryani – Elephanta Island are cool. You in the evening. day is easy actually, I love any biryani. need to take a boat to get When I’m in Mumbai I always You can get it absolutely there but it’s a great day out. you’ll need a day To drink so much coconut water everywhere but be brave and explore The MuseuMs as they’re readily available try a street food vendor – the if you can only and galleries and always so fresh. Then go flavours will be amazing. do one Thing in The National Gallery of for a breakfast of fresh fruit MuMbai... Modern Art and the Jehangir because India has some of ok, so iT’s noT Visit the Gateway of India. It t I on: rou fr A n CI s C o Art Gallery are the most the most exotic and delicious indian food is such a beautiful landmark. famous in the city and have fruit in the world. Now you But I love the Oliver Bar and But I would suggest seeing it some very cool exhibitions have put goodness back into Kitchen – they do some of during both the day and night throughout the year. your body, take yourself to the best pizzas I have tasted as it can look very different.

Emirates offers five daily flights to Mumbai, including a daily A380 service. W ords: EMMA C o ILE r ; I LL ustr A

| 90 | | 91 |

OS79_090 Guide.indd 90 8/22/17 4:06 PM etisalat.pdf 1 8/22/17 3:00 PM

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K AP SP SI EDP 2017 OPEN SKIES 195x260mm MO.indd 1 13/07/2017 14:09