Oslo a Monocle City Survey — from Forest to Fjord: the Best That Norway’S Dynamic Capital Has to Offer—

Home , Andreas Viestad, Fornebu Line, Holmenkollen Line, Monocle (brand), Oslo Package 2, Ruter

Oslo A monocle city survey — From forest to fjord: the best that Norway’s dynamic capital has to offer—

01 02 03 04 05 06 City on Business Capital Better Great Recipes for the move with pleasure of culture by design outdoors success The political The best Oslo Tour the city’s Oslo’s aspiring We head Dining options movers and entrepreneurs, arts scene creative talents beyond the that reserve shakers get- from small via festivals, and the archi- city limits for Oslo’s place ting creative independents theatre, music tects building a natural at the top culi- at City Hall. to oil giants. and more. a bright future. wander. nary table. OSLO IS AT THE HEART of Norway´s business and cultural life. As the capital city of Norway it powers the cultural and business environments that have created much of the Norwegian society we know today.

BY BEING A SMALL BIG CITY, it has nourished collaboration across business sectors and social structures and become a city of talents. Oslo is a melting pot for creativity, knowledge and capital.

ROOTED IN THE OPEN, transparent and trustworthy Norwegian society, Oslo is now a leading region of international business and entrepreneurship.

WELCOME TO OSLO - THE CAPITAL OF NORWAY. Photo: Damian Heinisch Photo:

�� . OSL - Oslo Airport, Statoil ASA, ØYA - Music festival, NFI -Film Commision Norway, Aspelin Ramm Eiendom AS, Tjuvholmen KS, T - Norwegian Trekking Association, Visit Oslo and the City of Oslo. Poll to poll welcome & contents Norway has topped the Legatum Institute’s annual Prosperity Index for the past four years and last year saw Norway rise five places to a lofty sixth position in the Entrepreneurship and Opportunity Index.

Overview 06 Map & overview We take a bird’s-eye view of the city’s main — Oslo is a city in flux. The Norwegian neighbourhoods to help you get your bearings capital has long topped polls for its and add a few vital statistics for good measure.

undoubtable quality of life, impeccable 07 — 09 public services and behind-the-scenes City & infrastructure diplomatic clout. But as one of Europe’s From Oslo’s peaceful past to the City Hall reformers changing the urban landscape, wealthiest and fastest-growing cities it this is a round-up of the city’s best and is branching out, shaking off its Nordic brightest developments. modesty and stepping up to take the 10 — 13 initiative in everything from urban Business & entrepreneurship planning to entrepreneurship. Banking, inner-city manufacturing and the entrepreneurs to watch: meet the inspiring While many dwell on the positive effects people who are spearheading the city’s (and swollen coffers) of the city’s vast oil commercial enlightenment. wealth, Oslovians enjoy other more life- 15 — 17 affirming resources, too. There’s the city’s Culture, art & media From a newspaper delivering good news for breathtaking scenery, nearness to nature Oslo’s media scene to a crop of new artists and walkable size, for example. Then painting a picture of prosperity, we take the there’s the vitality of its bubbling coffee cultural temperature of the “Tiger City”. culture, deep well of architecture talent and 18 — 21 EASY ACCESSIBLE OSLO emerging design scene. Design & architecture We meet the talented community of designers And that’s not to mention the confident clubbing together to take on the world and chat Norwegians travel a lot and we have many visitors to our country. This year a record-breaking 24 million passengers investment in everything from art to to the city’s celebrated architects about building Oslo’s reputation. will travel through Oslo Airport (OSL). Oslo Airport is the second busiest airport in Scandinavia and has been the infrastructure, as well as the fast-moving fastest growing hub in recent years. 30 million passengers are expected in 2020. Norway’s capital Oslo is only 19 renovation of its harbourside. We crossed 22 — 23 fjord and forest (past City Hall and the Retail & fashion minutes from Oslo Airport with the Airport Express Train. Visit the best in bricks and mortar retail, the ski slopes, of course) to meet the people must-browse boutiques and the people keep- bringing Oslo out of the shadow of its ing the fashion scene on the cutting edge. OSLO AIRPORT IS NORWAY’S HUB AND OFFERS DAILY SERVICES TO 30 DOMESTIC DESTINATIONS. Nordic neighbours and into plain view In total, you can fly direct to Oslo from 154 destinations worldwide with scheduled airlines. In recent years, there 25 — 27 on the global stage. Food & drink has been an increase in demand for long haul travel and Oslo Airport currently has intercontinental direct routes to We savour the work of local chefs, keep an New York, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Orlando and Fort Lauderdale in the USA, Bangkok in Thailand, Doha in Qatar eye on cuisine-driven commerce and suggest some accommodating hotels in which to rest and Dubai in the UAE. The development of further intercontinental routes is a focus area for Oslo Airport, and a Editor Liquid gold your head. Josh Fehnert Norway’s oil is worth €672bn steady rise in new destinations is expected. and since 1990 the Norges Assistant Editor 28 — 29 Bank Investment Management Marie-Sophie Schwarzer Nature & leisure has managed the Government Cabins, ski slopes, mushroom-picking and GATEWAY TO SCANDINAVIA Art Director Pension Fund, which owns Emma Chiu boating are all within easy reach in this pint- Oslo Airport’s extensive network of regional routes makes it the best starting point 1 per cent of the world’s stocks Photo Editor and property from New York to sized city. for visits to all of Norway’s and Scandinavia’s world-famous tourist destinations. Lois Wright London. The reserves belong 30 Photographer to the people, making each Five essential experiences Thomas Ekström citizen a theoretical millionaire. We head to the Vigeland Sculpture Park, hop EXPANSION OF THE AIRPORT Vim and vigour Illustrator on a fjord-ward ferry and drop a line in the Aker To cater for future demand Oslo Airport is building new capacity. An extended Laszlito Kovacs Oslo is a young city with a long history and celebrated its River, plus a few ideas to round off your trip. terminal building costing $ 2.3 billion will open in 2017. Special thanks 1,000-year anniversary as a Oslo Business Region, settlement in 2000. It was under Thea Urdal Danish rule from 1536 and Swedish from 1814 till 1905. Overview Map & City & — Here are the overview people, organisations infrastructure and initiatives keeping the city running smoothly and main- taining its reputation harbour as one of Europe’s Raising the Bar most alluring places Oslo’s harbour highlights the to call home. From the city’s growing focus on its high-rise developments waterfront. Behind the majestic Opera House are the high-rise changing the way glass fronts of the Barcode it does business to development. Each of its Oslo’s enviable public 11 buildings is stylistically NORWAY services, proximity different with only the alternating base colours Sweden to nature and creative predetermined. The masterwork City Hall, this is a city of Dutch architects MVRDV, the on the up. site will be completed in 2016. mvrdv.nl

Finland transport Cool runnings

Oslo is small enough to cross on foot but during the long winter Oslo Helsinki months its metros, trams and Stockholm buses are a welcome relief from the cold. Part-financed by road tolls and charging traffic to enter the city centre, the transport system has been improved to the tune of nok15.6bn (€1.9bn) between 2001 and Denmark 2011. The introduction of Os- Copenhagen lo’s toll road more than 20 years ago has reduced traffic by 5 per cent and 45 per cent of the revenue generated is reinvested Overview facts & figures State education in Norway into public transport. For those 6 Oslo essentials free from the age of: visiting from further afield, Oslo’s modern Gardermoen — Scandinavia is already synony- Number of years that Oslo Green space within Oslo: airport is just under half an mous with world-leading design and has been recognised as a 307 sq km hour away by train from the culinary offerings but while Stock- captial, making it the oldest Number of islands in example in Scandinavia: 1,000 city’s central station. holm and Copenhagen tend to grab Oslofjord: 40 ruter.no the headlines, Oslo is now raising Century in which the term Electric-car charging points eyebrows in its own right. Norway’s Scandinavia was first used to in Olso: 1,226 capital is undergoing a rapid trans- collectively describe Norway, nature Sweden and Denmark: 18th Norway’s constitution formation fuelled by an influx of introduced: 1814 Right to roam foreign talent, an educated workforce Oslo population: 638,500; metropolitan area: 2.1 million Fully paid leave for Known as the Blue Green and developments that are trans- childcare in Norway: 49 city, Oslo is surrounded by forming the face of the city. Land- Oslo commuters who cycle weeks, of which the father evergreen forests of Norwe- mark builds such as the iconic Opera to work: 12% can take 23 gian pine and cerulean fjords House and the business-minded Number of international to the south. Salmon can be Number of museums in seen in the Aker River that Barcode development rejuvinated the destinations served by Olso: 45 Oslo Airport: 112 flows through the heart of city’s harbourside while independent Number of cinemas in Oslo: town and lush parks (we like retailers give cause for further Number of intercontinental 7 cinemas and 27 screens Frogner and Birkelunden) dot optimism. From the fast-paced Tøyen destinations: 11 the capital. The Norwegian Annual coffee consumption idea of allemannsretten also and Grünerløkka to the established Rubbish recycled in Oslo: 37% per person in Olso: 9.2kg suburbs of Majorstuen and Frogner, entitles every member of the Oslo’s World Bank Ease of Dental care is free in Norway public full use and shared Oslo has something for everyone. Doing Business ranking: 9 until: 20 years old ownership of nature’s bounty.

06 — oslo city survey oslo city survey — 07 832,000 8 million 2026 1 The figure that Oslo’s population is predicted to expand to by The title given to a mooted project that would connect Oslo to The year by which Oslo aims The world-topping rank 2040. Currently, 638,000 people call the city home. Copenhagen by way of Gothenburg. The 8 Million City high-speed to implement a completely eco- Norway proudly holds in the train would take two-and-a-half hours and be built by 2030. friendly public transport system. Human Development Index.

quality of life monocle comment welfare Open house Five city fixes Helping hand As well as Oslo’s conspicious 01 Better transport to The UN Development Index natural gifts, the city also other cities doesn’t lie and Norway’s top boasts a forward-looking, If pursued, the 8 Million spot this year is partly due to liberal take on everything City project will cut a developed and supportive from sustainability to gender the journey time to welfare system. Seventy-five equality. It may be indebted Copenhagen to two- per cent of its social safety to fossil fuels but Oslo is and-a-half hours. What net is taxpayer funded and the conscious of its commitment is everyone waiting for? rest comes from the mutually to a greener future, too. 02 Ease congestion owned oil fund. Services The city is hoping to Oslo’s traffic is bad. The include free healthcare, ensure fossil-free heating city needs fewer cars education and excellent by 2020 and has introduced and more bicycles. unemployment benefits. exacting standards in the 03 Increase housing So no excuse not to take construction of all munici- While the stock is good professional risks, then. pal buildings from this year. it’s expensive and Oslo Gender equality is also high needs to continue on the agenda and 82 per developing housing cent of men and 77 per cent density in its centre. of women are employed. The 04 (Slightly) longer number of women working full working hours time in Norway increased by Typical working hours 35,000 between spring 2014 are 08.00 until 16.00. and the year before. Great fun but not glob- ally competitive; some middle ground needs to Q&A What are Oslo’s strengths public space be found. Stian Berger Røsland, as a place to do business? A Nobel cause 05 Creative licence We offer a stable environment Despite faint rumblings governing mayor for doing business and living Each December the world’s from independents, your life. I think stability, gaze rests on Oslo for the manufacturing has all An audience with Oslo’s trust and transparency are Nobel Peace Prize award but left these shores. ambitious governing mayor, Oslo’s greatest commodities. ceremony. In 2005 the Nobel who shares his thoughts on There is substantial trust Peace Center opened in the the trajectory of this between the different layers in heart of the city with the goal waterfront gradually taking shape and the fast-changing city and his society and that is a principle of educating the public about development Fjord focus 13 projects over 10 kilometres plans for the future, as well on which we can really make past laureates and issues Shining light of shoreline will add cultural as his favourite things about good things happen. relating to war and conflict In 2008, Oslo put the wheels in spaces including a library and living in the Blue Green city. resolution. It has greeted Developers Aspelin Ramm motion to spruce up its fallow an Edvard Munch Museum What are your favourite some 1.5 million visitors and Selvaag’s reclaimed waterside and reconnect its to the existing Opera House. How is Oslo changing? things about the city? since the opening. peninsula project is a taste busy centre to the harbour. prosjekt-fjordbyen.oslo. I think what characterises the One of the things we are nobelpeacecenter.org of what the entire waterfront The concrete wasteland is kommune.no state of affairs in Oslo is the fact lucky with is where we are: could soon look like. With that we are the fastest-growing the fjord. You can go there in a masterplan courtesy of capital city in Europe. We’re the summertime and thousands healthcare architect Niels Torp, the childcare still small on the European scale of people go to the islands. Clean bill of health mixed-use landmark has Young love but we have 100,000 more I’m an island kind of guy but set a standard for waterside inhabitants than a decade ago. I go to the forest because I’m Oslo’s medical offerings developments that other While parents across western Norwegian. It’s also important received a timely check-up in European cities can learn from. Europe fret over nursery costs, What are the challenges? that my children learn to ski: 2004 and four years later the tjuvholmen.no babysitters and getting back We know that people in a it’s part of the package. gleaming 565-bed Akershus to work fast, Norway’s take city of 850,000 cannot drive hospital in Nordbyhagen was on childcare is refreshingly as many cars as our inhabitants built at a cost of €900m. empathetic. As well as drive today, which is too global reach As you might expect, the enjoying 49 weeks’ paid many. So we need to make sure public-health service is well maternity leave, Oslo’s parents that we create new areas in Former prime minister Jens funded and efficient and Oslo have some 788 nurseries to accordance with our obligation Stoltenberg is Nato’s new is served by six other hospitals, choose from. City authorities to the environment and make secretary-general and too. The city is well stocked also provide 20 hours a week sure it happens in a way that Norway’s diplomats work with pharmacies, two of which of free daycare to children provides us with the ability to for peace with groups in are open 24 hours a day. aged four and five. keep our green spaces. Colombia and Palestine.

08 — oslo city survey oslo city survey — 09 01 business & 26% 28,000 Crude arithmetic High performance entrepreneurship Oil accounts for 26 per cent of Norway’s total Oslo’s cultural industries currently employ 28,000 revenue and 50 per cent of its exports. people and are growing by 11 per cent a year.

Overview etiquette — Ever since its original Top business tips discovery of the coast of Norway in Successful business meetings 1969, oil has been big business for in Oslo require positive person- companies based in Oslo but luckily alities and smart ideas. Here’s that isn’t the capital’s only resource. how to get the balance right. 02 The city’s entrepreneurial scene is 1. Be on time blossoming with an optimistic crop Be punctual but don’t be of start-ups, a budding makers’ surprised if the person movement and a highly supportive you’re meeting is a little tardy: set of initiatives from City Hall that Norwegians treat a few minutes are helping to instill fresh confidence either side of an arranged time with good humour. Also, don’t in Oslo’s economic future. schedule meetings for the late afternoon as most people clock 01 off at around 16.00. shared spaces finance Better together On the money 2. Don’t take offence Financial services are key to Some people mistake the 03 Even by Nordic standards business life in the Norwegian Norwegian national character property is pricey in Oslo. The capital and dnb (pictured) is the for coldness or, worse, city’s entrepreneurs are opting country’s largest and one of its arrogance. Fear not: it to share their workspaces best-respected providers. As well won’t be long before the and pool their resources to as being essential to servicing barriers tumble and you get ventures off the ground. Oslo’s thriving shipping trade, see a softer side. Opened in 2012, Mesh was it also employs some 11,710 among the first to devote desk workers, 4,200 of which are 3. Encourage novelty space to start-ups. “When we stationed at its beautiful There is a traditional Norwegian began there were no co-work- mvrdv-designed headquarters social convention of aspiring ing spaces in Oslo – or even that are part of the harbourside to live humbly and discouraging in Norway. Suddenly they’re Barcode development. big, outlandish ideas: it’s known popping up everywhere,” says dnb.no as Jante. Fortunately a new co-founder Thomas Bergøy generation of entrepreneurs 04 Johansen, whose space 02 03 are shaking off this somewhat currently accommodates 130 of the reason that inspired Q&A Why is business changing so unhelpful mantra but, even so, members from 81 businesses. us to launch Mesh,” says Fredrik Winther quickly here? do remember to reassure them Now there are more than 10 Johansen. “Now it’s cool Managing director, Part of it is due to people travel- that variety and innovation are such hubs in Oslo. StartupLab to be an entrepreneur and Oslo Business Region ling more. People are also work- positives when doing cross- to the west of the city is one society respects us.” ing more on temporary projects border business. of the largest tech incubators meshnorway.com; Many local start-ups turn to than in stable and traditional in the Nordic region and has startuplab.no; 657.no; the Oslo Business Region companies, though there are still 4. Informality is fine strong ties to the University socentral.no bureau for advice, guidance some old ones. This all connects Dressing the part isn’t as 04 of Oslo. Ten minutes drive Three companies to watch and support. Fredrik Winther to a culture of sharing resources important as acting it here south is shared space 657, is its managing director. and being in companies with and Oslo’s savvy business where around 50 compa- 01 Justcoin open structures. sorts would rather you had nies in the communications A fast-growing digital currency- How is business evolving your ideas in order than your industry are laying down the exchange platform founded in Oslo? Which industries does this new shirt-and-tie combination. by Klaus Bugge Lund and foundations of a collabora- During the last two or three years way of working affect most? Don’t be afraid to use first 05 Andreas Brekken in 2013. tive community. And on the we have seen 10 to 15 new entre- So far it’s mostly happen- names – your hosts won’t be. justcoin.com busy Skippergata thorough- preneur-accelerator programmes ing within technology and fare, SoCentral’s co-founder 02 Kompass & Co appear along with co-working information-communication 5. Toast the deal Thomas Berman aims to Provides employment and 05 areas and maker spaces. A couple technology (ict) industries. We Try the traditional spirit inspire tenants to build solu- training in the food industry for 01 StartupLab of years ago none of them existed aim to open up international Akevitt, a cold Ringnes or tions for the world’s needs. those struggling to find work. 02 Entrepreneurs at StartupLab and it is quite a new phenom- markets to start-ups and we also maybe some Aass (a local 03 University campus where “Some years ago it was kompassogco.no enon in Oslo. The city is picking hope that some of those inde- beer, before you blush) and StartupLab is based almost an insult to be called 03 Bugge & Authen up this international trend of pendent environments become seal your business deals with 04 Entrepreneur at Mesh Remy Bugge and Ingvild an entrepreneur. We were a 05 Mesh co-founders producing new start-ups and better connected to traditional a drink. As Norwegians finish Authen have handcrafted nation of peasants and our 06 Workshop at Mesh encouraging the project-based and bigger industries, because work earlier than their Euro- social law told us that you fine jewellery since 2012. work-life situation that these that’s where most of the money pean counterparts there will shouldn’t stick out. It’s part buggeauthen.no places demand and create. and investment is. be plenty of time to celebrate. 06

10 — oslo city survey oslo city survey — 11 47% 3.4% €72,586 118,607 Thinking big Just the job Value for money Business as usual Oslo is one of Europe’s best educated cities with In July just 3.4 per cent (94,000 people) of Oslo’s GDP per capita in 2013 was the second highest in Roughly a quarter of Norway’s businesses are based in Oslo and 47 per cent having enrolled in higher education. Norway’s population was unemployed. Europe at NOK592,778 (€72,586). in 2012 there were 118,607 companies registered here.

strategy oslo online businesses to watch Group effort Three tech triumphs Lighting the way

Oil looms large on Norway’s 01 Finn 1. Northern Lighting Q&A business landscape and its Online marketplace Nine years ago Ove Rogne (pictured below, middle) Hallstein Bjercke discovery off the continental shelf for items ranging from swapped his consulting job to establish Northern Vice mayor for cultural affairs in the late 1960s has spurred property to motorboats. Lighting. We see a bright future for his lamps and business development many technological advances. finn.no made from local oak and Nordic birch that update Subsea Valley started four years 02 Opera design classics such as Birger Dahl’s Birdy lamp. Hallstein Bjercke’s position ago and encompasses 226 The web browser used northernlighting.no at City Hall combines two international firms confronting by 350 million people. 2.Xeneta roles in order to provide challenges that might face the opera.com In 2012, Patrik Olstad Berglund, Thomas Sørbø a unique entrepreneurial industry in the future. “This 03 Visma and Vilhelm Vardøy set out to bring some transpar- environment in Oslo. cluster is unique, I haven’t seen The Nordic region’s busi- ency to the $200bn-a-year (€155bn) shipping its equivalent anywhere else,” ness software leader. industry. Their company gathers data on 22,000 Can you explain your role? says director Preben Strøm. visma.no port-to-port movements around the world to offer It was my idea to combine the subseavalley.com an open pricing platform for moving freight. responsibilities. I would say my xeneta.com ambition is to make Oslo the start-up incubator 3. Blender city of talents. Our largest chal- maker spaces Helping hands Mats Alver (pictured left, seated), Kyrre Alver and lenge is attracting talent from Made to order Magnus Thorud’s Blender agency (pictured below, all over the world for business, Last year Innovation Norway, left) is shaking up Norway’s often conservative fash- culture, research and develop- Manufacturing in Norway has a state-funded organisation, ion scene. They are the leading Scandinavian agents ment. To do this we have to taken a backseat to the service supported and advised around for international brands such as Alexander Wang, make Oslo a city where you can industry since the 1970s but 7,000 businesses. “Over the last Rag & Bone and Marc by Marc Jacobs. have something to make a living all over the city the value of 10 years we’ve helped many blenderagency.com from – a job – but also to make making things from scratch is people with their projects,” says it a city where you want to live. being reappraised. Though pro- Anita Krohn Traaseth, Innova- duction of machinery, ships and tion Norway’s new ceo (pictured). Can you describe why Oslo is oil platforms is on the up, it’s the On average, entrepreneurs attractive to entrepreneurs? rise of city-centre spaces and under its wing see their turnover I would call it an undetected small business that is pointing increase by 21 per cent over three sweet spot. Oslo is booming to new ways forward. years and 80 per cent of them right now. It’s one of the fastest- Founded in 2012, Bitraf survive for five years or more. growing cities in Europe. We’ve (pictured) is open seven days innovationnorway.no started rebuilding large parts of a week and offers space and the city over the past 10 years facilities for tech-savvy makers. and have begun redefining the Fellesverkstedet also opened harbour areas: we’re opening two years ago and provides the city to the sea. We need tools and expertise to help to accept that Oslo isn’t an aspiring artisans bring industrial city anymore. Instead, products to market. it’s the creative and knowledge- bitraf.no; fellesverkstedet.no based industries that are the most important employers. education What are your plans for Business class oil developing business in Oslo? Positive energy We see that a lot of seeds have Offering courses from undergraduate to doctoral already started to grow here level, the BI Norwegian Business School (pictured) Majority state-owned oil giant Statoil is one of – such as in the start-up scene – currently hosts some 20,000 students and is ranked Norway’s largest employers and is headquartered but there is still a long way to go. in the top 50 such institutions in the world. in the coastal city of Stavanger. But its distinctive We’re fostering more co-opera- “Oslo is big enough to have strong professional Oslo office at Fornebu (courtesy of Norwegian tion between Oslo and Austin in and academic hubs and small enough to have trans- architecture firm A-Lab) is a triumph of Texas, plus Hackney in London. parency and overlapping networks where knowl- open-to-all design. And we are starting something edge and insight rub off,” says the school’s president The company maintains a high degree of that we call the Creative Cities Inge Jan Henjesand. “It is in these networks where transparency – especially in light of the polluted Alliance, which began as a city- the magic happens and it’s a good place to be for reputation of many other international oil outfits. to-city agreement 18 months someone who wants to start a business.” Built in The Fortune 500 firm currently employs around ago. It’s important that this leads 2005, the modern campus’s scenic location to the 23,000 staff and flies the flag for Norwegian best to more direct co-operation east of the Aker River is a hit with students. practice in 36 countries around the world. between businesses and people. bi.edu statoil.com Photogra p her: O le Jørgen Bratland

12 — oslo city survey oslo city survey — 13 ¤226m Culture, Art at work Cost of the new Munch Museum, slated to open Art & Media on Oslo’s harbourside area of Bjørvika by 2018.

Overview

— Once the stomping ground of household names such as painter Looka location to with Norwaya difference Edvard Munch and playwright Henrik Ibsen, Oslo has long been a hotbed of creativity. Far from resting on its laurels however, the city has enjoyed considerable investment in its cultural infrastructure, which has prompted a mini renaissance in media, performance and visual art. Here’s just some of what’s on offer.

performance Independent spirit Oslo is not short of world-class performance spaces. Founded in 1957, The Norwegian Opera and Ballet’s new fjord-side premises (pictured, above) have become a landmark in an industry finding its feet after years of relative obscurity. The National Theatre (pictured, main and bottom right) was established at the turn of the 19th century to celebrate Norway’s unique identity and has become a beacon of the country’s national pride. “The theatre was the first to stage Norwegian-language plays. It’s been crucial to building the identity of Oslo and the nation,” says artistic director Hanne Tømta. operaen.no; nationaltheatret.no

art Q&A What hurdles must NRK Artists’ union Thor Gjermund overcome? These days we compete with We will help you to get in contact with: Founded in the 1920s, Eriksen global giants and every day is e right people. At the right time. At the right location. Unge Kunstneres Samfund Director-general and like taking part in a world cham- (UKS) is a 700-member editor in chief, NRK pionship. I am confident that the society devoted to young audience will continue to ask for Norwegian artists. “Our We meet the man behind quality content made in Norway goal is to increase the audi- Norway’s well-respected and about Norway. That is one ence for contemporary art and Oslo-based public- area where we have good odds. and influence cultural poli- service broadcaster. cy,” says director Johanne How is the service evolving? Nordby Wernø (pictured), What is NRK’s mission and We had a very successful who lobbies the local and philosophy? transition to digital TV and regional government for Our mission is to inform, are soon doing the same for artists’ rights and funding. educate and entertain, and I’m radio. The best thing about that UKS also boosts aware- determined to maintain high transition is audiences get access ness for various local standards in our journalistic to more great content. If we are talents such as Oslo-born ethic and independence. We’re to keep our position we need artist Marthe Ramm Fortun, the largest media corporation in to be present on all platforms. whose first major solo Norway and play an important We need to meet the requests exhibition in Norway runs democratic role. Moreover, from audiences of all ages and until early November and NRK is important to mainstay connected to the younger is well worth your time. taining our national language, generation, too. uks.no culture and heritage. nrk.no

FILM COMMISSION NORWAY Norwegian Film Institute, p.Box 482 Sentrum N0105 Oslo | www.norwegianﬁlm.com post@norwegianﬁlm.com | +47 22 47 45 00 oslo city survey — 15

Photos by: Nancy Bundt, CH, Mattias Fredriksson, Per Eide, Gaute Bruvik music 04 225,981 2016 29 Festival flavour 01 Fit to print Words on the street Front-page news 01 Oslo World Music The daily circulation of the morning edition of Oslo’s largest The date the angular new Deichman Library will Oslo-based Schibsted Media Group publishes Festival newspaper in 2012; Aftenposten is one of nine dailies in the city. open on Oslo’s eastern harbourside development. Aftenposten and operates across 29 markets. As the days get darker, light up the nights with some exotic beats. 02 still life art music books osloworld.no Inside Norway Pitch perfect Crowds together Turning the page 02 Oslo Jazz Festival This six-day jazz 01 Dagbladet Established in 1993 by the Despite its diminutive size The Free Word Foundation set extravaganza has run Second-largest tabloid. Thomas Fearnley, Heddy and Oslo hosts some 5,000 live up Norway’s first venue dedi- for nearly 30 years. 03 dagbladet.no Nils Astrup Foundation, the performances a year; double cated to reading and writing oslojazz.no 02 Dagens Naeringsliv Astrup Fearnley Museum is pri- the number of Stockholm or in 2007 to promote the written 03 Norwegian Wood The biggest business vately owned and a mainstay Copenhagen. While black word. “We wanted to open a Rock Festival paper. dn.no of the city’s contemporary-art metal is a huge export (and lively place for creating and In mid-June global 05 03 Aftenposten scene. Two years ago, Italian acquired taste), the city keeps presenting art and literature,” rock stars and a few Norway’s most respected architect Renzo Piano gave a lot of its best musical offer- says Eline Skaar Kleren, the up-and-comers pack paper. aftenposten.no the collection an airy new ings at home in the form acting head of programming. their trunks and head 04 Vagant fjord-side home. Work from of festivals. The House of Literature hosts to the open-air pool at Literary journal. vagant.no Damien Hirst to Jeff Koons “The weather isn’t always 1,500 public readings and Frognerbadet. 05 Nytt Rom can be found under the distinct meant for it but the festival seminars a year. norwegianwood.no Design magazine from Hans curved glass roof. craze in Oslo is unstoppable,” litteraturhuset.no Petter Smeby. nyttrom.no afmuseet.no says Lars Petter Hagen, direc- 06 Turbonegro, tor of the Ultima Contemporary Sexual Harassment Music Festival. This August art Oslo’s loudest musical some 60,000 revellers flocked Back in the house export. turbonegro.com to Tøyen Park in Oslo to enjoy 07 Röyksopp & Robyn, Øya, an annual festival that Kunstnernes Hus, Norway’s largest artist-led 06 07 Do It Again has long outgrown the island gallery, has been hosting industry-leading Electronic EP from Scandi after which it was named. exhibitions since 1930. After years of decline, team-up. royksopp.com ultima.no; oyafestivalen.com however, the iconic modernist pile is finally back on track. “We want to get artists in to the building,” says director Mats Stjernstedt. art Over the past few years, said building has Into outer spaces become more relevant for artists looking for a space to gather and enjoy a pint from the micro- Pop artist Terje Brofos, AKA brewery. Stjernstedt is expecting hundreds to Hariton Pushwagner, is at the attend the exhibition of the work of French film- forefront of the city’s burgeon- maker Chris Marker, which opens late October. ing alternative art scene and kunstnerneshus.no has been hailed as Oslo’s “modern-day Munch”. In the media same breath there’s writer Perfect pull-out Q&A and make it into a modern and installation artist Matias Espen Egil Hansen media outlet. Being the national Faldbakken, whose recent D2 is one of Europe’s best newspaper, what I wanted to do exhibition at the Standard supplements. It’s available Editor in chief, was to make it the paper Oslo is Gallery (pictured) confirmed his each Friday in the financial Aftenposten proud of and provide an inter- status among the city’s best. daily Dagens Naeringsliv. national perspective. Aftenposten pushwagner.no; standardoslo.no The man at the helm of is a little old fashioned so what Norway’s most-read paper we’re trying to do now is to on the future of news. maintain its trustworthiness but hub make it cooler. We’re taking a Culture club How is the media industry fresher approach and provid- faring in Norway? ing content for Oslo’s younger Oslo’s creatives can rally at this Norwegians are very news audience. makeshift artistic hotspot in savvy. We have 170 newspapers a once-vacant building at busy in the country but we’re strug- What advantages does and buzzy Youngstorget. “We’re gling along with everyone else. ‘Aftenposten’ have over a venue that unites fields, Subscriber numbers have been other news outlets? whether political or artistic,” falling for the past 25 years but I’m inspired by our history says Runar Eggesvik (pictured), this June, for the first time we and the challenge is to adapt the man behind the Kulturhuset. had more subscribers than 12 fast enough in the business of “We’re a hub for contemporary months previously. It’s early on journalism by modernising our expression. Openness isn’t a but something is happening. role. We have an advantage; let’s Norwegian thing but it’s a new use it and let’s move fast. Oslo Oslo thing and we represent it.” What’s your vision for the would be a worse place to live Youngstorget 3 newspaper? without Aftenposten. kulturhusetioslo.no My goal was to modernise it aftenposten.no Photogra p hers: Vegard Kle v en, Mar k us T horsen, still life: da id sy es

16 — oslo city survey oslo city survey — 17 Design & 1938 3 €140m The year that one of Norway’s The number of stages in the monumental Snøhetta-designed The tune to which the Arts Council Norway supports cultural architecture greatest architects, Arne Korsmo, Opera House, which opened in 2008 after five years of construc- activities each year. completed Villa Stenersen. tion. operaen.no kulturradet.no

Overview graphic design design centre Harbour intent Barking up the right tree From a new crop of Norwegian Metric’s four-strong design The spacious halls of the Norwegian Centre designers realising they’re studio, located on Kongens for Design and Architecture (DogA) used to better off together (in an gate near the harbour, was house an old transformer station before they international market that’s founded five years ago and became the epicentre of Oslo’s buoyant design finally taking note) to the has since tackled graphic- scene in 2005. As well as hosting exhibitions design projects ranging from and conferences and having its own café and architects erecting some of brand identity to print and design shop, DogA is involved in projects Europe’s most innovative packaging. Its clients include nationwide including the wooden Sørenga buildings, we drop in on the likes of Oslo’s Øya festival, Bridge in Bjørvika (pictured). a design scene that has the favoured burger joint Illegal “Up until now Norway has been the little plenty to be optimistic about. and Voss breweries. “We do a brother to Denmark and Sweden,” says lot of work with social spaces: programme director Karianne Bjellås Gilje. places where people interact “Now we’re really catching up.” physically and meet,” says doga.no co-founder Are Kleivan regeneration (pictured, far left) of the Neighbourhood watch small team’s award-winning repertoire of projects. “The Oslo’s population is booming and with forest design scene is on the up for on one side and water on the other, the challenge small agencies in Oslo.” This is to make the most of the city’s limited space. year Metric took silver at the Ten years ago, property developer Infill realised European Design Awards. that the city’s density could be increased without metricdesign.no the need to destroy homes and set about buying existing but unwanted plots. “We always try to build something to improve the neighbourhood,” says development manager Bjørnar Johnsen. Infill’s award-winning Dæleng- gata 36 apartment building (pictured) features rooftop gardens and a gallery as well as allotments for growing vegetables. infill.no

design school Next generation The light-flooded classrooms and workshops of the Oslo School of Architecture and Design (AHO) in the Vulkan neighbourhood are filled with 700 aspiring architects, industrial and landscape designers. The independent institution was this year ranked sixth in the Red Dot Design Rank- ing, firmly placing it on the rostrum as one of the world’s design schools to watch.

aho.no Photogra p her: F inn S tåle el b erg

18 — oslo city survey oslo city survey — 19 2003 36 300,000 The year in which Norway’s best young designers first began exhibiting at The street number on Industrigata in Majorstuen, The number of architectural artefacts on show at 100% Norway at London Design Week. This year’s event displayed the work where you can find Norwegian-made designs at the National Museum of Art, Architecture & Design. of up-and-coming Norwegian designers from Oslo and beyond. the immaculate retailer Pur Norsk. nasjonalmuseet.no

architecture cityscape Global vision Natural charm With more stamps in its The natural borders defined passport (and on the landscape) by the forest and fjord set than most other Norwegian firm boundaries for architects architects, international and limit Oslo’s urban sprawl. toast-of-Oslo practice Snøhetta As a result, planners have had has undertaken commissions to look within the city for from New York to Alexandria. space to develop and have redevelopment Foremost in the city itself is quickly recognised that street The gamechangers the harbourside Opera House life is vastly improved by that, according to director mixed-use developments. Despite an august 133-year Kjetil Traedal (pictured), Oslo is also blessed with a history, developer Aspelin “wouldn’t have been possible decent mix of older and new Ramm has come into its own to build anywhere else”. housing stock and time spent in the past decade through True to its Norwegian roots, under Danish and Swedish its role on the Tjuvholmen the firm developed the rule has left a charming development by Oslofjord concept for the white marble Q&A legacy. Despite the pace of and the revitalisation of the structure with the nation’s Andreas Engesvik change, colourful wooden now buzzing riverside Vulkan egalitarian allemansretten law 18th-century workers’ neighbourhood (formerly (the right to roam free) in mind. Industrial designer cottages in areas such as referred to as the dumpa or The accessible building’s roof Kampen are reminders of “pit”). “We’re taking the city – technically defined as a piece We caught up with the award- Oslo’s past – and undoubtedly back,” says CEO Gunnar Bøyum. of art to circumvent safety winning designer whose worth preserving. aspelinramm.no regulations – gives people the studio in Homansbyen, to the liberty to explore and enjoy city’s north, has turned its the view. Despite the firm’s hand to projects for compa- product design success and international nies including Finnish firm Material gain recognition, Traedal still thinks Iittala, Italians FontanaArte innovation will be key to and Asplund from Sweden. Founded by Torbjørn Anders- progress. “We have to evolve sen and Espen Voll (pictured, to survive,” he says. Tell us about your studio? left and right) in 2009, Anders- snohetta.com I started it in 2009 and now sen & Voll is one of Oslo’s pre- employ four people. Norwegian mier product-design firms with design is very promising today numerous international awards and the field of designers work- to its name. Seven designers ones to watch design collective ing internationally is getting sit in the bright, high-ceilinged Klubben designers Klub together even stronger. It’s important office in Vulkan and create because there are so few manu- everything from cast-iron 01 Runa Klock In 2011, Sverre Uhnger, facturers left in Norway. ovens to textiles, lamps and From a felt collection Victoria Günzler and Sara furniture, as well as products for The Thief hotel to Wright Polmar (pictured, from How does Norwegian for Denmark-based Muuto. jewellery and a charity left) founded The Norwegian design differ from the other anderssen-voll.com project in Pakistan, Designers Union (known as Nordic nations? Klock has her sights on Klubben) to unite Norway’s I like to think that design the global market. growing talent under a single here is more oriented towards Q&A right size; I just hope it won’t What architectural advice runaklock.com standard. “Klubben started craftsmanship. And perhaps our Niels Torp become too big in future. do you have for Oslo? 02 Hallgeir Homstvedt out as an idea. There are a lot designs are more poetic, too. Owner, Niels Torp We should not be afraid of Having exhibited in New of Norwegian designers but to What inspired the Tjuvhol- modern buildings and contrasts York, Tokyo and Milan, make an impact internationally Why live in Oslo? Arkitekter men development design? but high-rise buildings change Homstvedt is working it’s better to work together,” I can go for a swim in the sea, We meet the man behind It’s inspired by the Roman way city life. In high-rises like the with a host of big brands. says Uhnger. cross-country skiing, slaloming Oslo’s portside Aker Brygge of life: Vespas, restaurants, Barcode development, the hallgeirhomstvedt.com Currently numbering 29 or sailing and it’s all less than and Tjuvholmen developments. children running around, people distance between flats and 03 kristine Bjaadal members with designers 10 minutes from my home sitting together. That’s what the floor is too far; there “I love using objects to hailing from around the world, in Frogner Park. I also think How would you describe living in towns should be like can be no dialogue between tell stories about the collective is hosting its Scandinavia’s position in Oslo’s architectural identity? and that’s what I wanted to do the pedestrians and people everyday life,” says seventh exhibition in Novem- the world of design is very Oslo is a patchwork city. It’s with Tjuvholmen. I wanted living there. Oslo should Bjaadal, whose designs ber, showcasing everything strong and will become a saucer surrounded by forest people to be able to sit on their develop high-rises outside include cups and vases. from handmade prototypes to even more important over and fjords and the architecture balconies with a fishing rod. of the city so you can keep kristinebjaadal.no mass-produced furniture. the next few decades. relates to that. The architectural Everybody should feel as if the scale as it is. klbbn.no andreasengesvik.no landscape is varied and has the they own the place. nielstorp.no

20 — oslo city survey oslo city survey — 21 Overview shoes In the frame Gift aid Dundas Footwear retail & — The Oslo retail scene is home to a wide Fixed-gear fanatics can get their fill of all things In business since 1957, second-generation shop bike-like from Oslovelo or clothing shop Norway Designs is a treasure trove of Nordic “We had no idea that anybody collection of well-turned-out independents Dapper’s new space that is devoted to two homeware. If you are hunting for gifts, look out other than us and a few fashion that mix local talent with international brands. wheelers. Both are in Grünerløkka. for the Norwegian wool Røros Tweed rugs. like-minded weirdos would Here’s our pick of the very best. oslovelo.no; dapper.no norwaydesigns.no want them. But boy how wrong we were,” says Dundas Footwear co-founder Helge menswear womenswear Mamen (pictured, on left) of Dapper NR.9 the brand’s leather boots. Founded in 2011 and housed The vintage barber’s chair you Last year Jostein Wålengen in brightly lit digs since April, spy as you enter is the first clue opened Nr.9, a marble-floored the company’s bench-made that Dapper isn’t an ordinary three-room boutique in the boots are as hardy and clothes shop. Opened in April city’s well-heeled west. It sells comfortable as they come. 2013, Dapper’s bricks-and- vintage finds from the likes of dundasfootwear.com mortar home doubles as a Chanel and Prada, and stocks barbershop. The attractive the work of up-and-comers. space’s wooden vitrines are “Norwegians like what’s famil- piled high with grooming prod- iar so persuading a customer ucts that are flanked by racks of to pay for a jacket from a stu- clothes from the likes of Levi’s, dent designer is tough but not Suit and Libertine-Libertine. impossible,” says Wålengen. “Oslo’s consumers are nr-9.no becoming more and more aware of the products that they consume,” says co-founder fashion/art Johan Brox (pictured, wearing YME bow tie) of how the team behind the venture carefully select Located across three floors in which brands to stock. one of the oldest buildings on dapper.no Karl Johans gate, artist and designer Nicolai Schaan- ning Larsen’s ambitious new opening is a cornucopia of fashion & accessories tasteful take-homes. One Freudian Kicks part gallery space and one part well-stocked bookshop, Located in Oslo’s former post YME’s big pull (apart from the office building on the now-ritzy urge to linger and admire its Prinsens gate thoroughfare, stunning interiors, a joint effort this clothes shop and creative with Snøhetta) is its selection agency set up in 2007 is of high-end clothing. A quick known for its worldly edit of peruse reveals the breadth sought-after fashion. “When of what’s on offer with we opened there were only one collections from Haider or two independents here that Ackermann, Lanvin and carried international brands,” Altewaisaome, as well as says co-founder Stian Grims- artwork such as photography maeth (pictured, on left). from Norwegian Lasse Fløde. freudiankicks.com ymestore.com retail development monocle comment streetwear Paleet Hunting Lodge Oslo’s shopping scene isn’t After a 15-month facelift, the Paleet shopping the conservative affair it Former music consultant centre reopened on busy Karl Johans gate once was and new open- Dafydd Jones (pictured, on left) early this September. The three-tier behemoth ings such as the Paleet moved to Oslo in 2006 and includes some 36 restaurants, concept stores shopping centre and YME set up menswear shop Hunting and cafés and is a welcome change from the are proving that ambition Lodge with London-based out-of-town malls that have for too long drawn is everything. Confidence is artist Mark Hames. In 2012 he shoppers away from the city centre. growing as more indepen- moved the shop, which stocks Our picks include a sharp debut collection dents throw their hats (or labels from Norse Projects from Norwegian womenswear upstart Aphru, a boots or bikes) into the to YMC, to the Grünerløkka warm jacket from local firm Johnnylove and a ring but import tariffs are area, where he transformed visit to YME’s concept store (see opposite page). still steep for start-ups and a 100-year-old building into “Co-operation is key to Oslo’s retail transforma- pose a stumbling block the large-windowed, wooden- tion,” says centre manager Øystein Aurlien. for growth. floored gem it is today.

paleet.no i m age: einar asla k sen huntinglodge.no

22 — oslo city survey oslo city survey — 23 ØYAFESTIVALEN AUGUST 11-15 Food & drink 2015 OSLO, NORWAY Overview market «People looking to combine Spoilt for choice — New Nordic cuisine may rank highly in terms of global prestige but tourism with music would be Since opening two years ago, hard pressed to ﬁnd a better Norway has sometimes lagged behind its Scandinavian neighbours in the the Mathallen food market in kitchen. No more. We’ve pulled up a seat at a few choice tables and found festival.» Vulkan has become an emblem a host of chefs, dishes, produce and places to treat your taste buds. of Oslo’s blossoming food Time Magazine April 2014 scene and a meeting place for the culinary community. 01 Hitchhiker’s Stian ‘The Business is brisk for the 30 Steamer’ Floer (left) and merchants inside the reno- Jan Robin Ektvedt (right) vated 1940s factory. Tourists 02 Mathallen food market hall can sample delicacies such 03 Solberg & Hansen 04 Hitchhiker fare as tranches of brunost (brown 05 Pulling up a chair at cheese) from delicatessen Vulkanfisk Gutta på Haugen, dill-dusted gravlax from fishmonger Frøya Sjømat and sweet blåbaer (blueberry) temptations from Hello Good Pie. The mezzanine level features event spaces and a cooking academy that offers wine and cookery courses. mathallenoslo.no

Music-mad city hoppers should Three top stops 02 check-in at Øyafestivalen where 1. Vulkanfisk From scallops to shrimp and you can experience stellar names mussels, this restaurant and fishmonger’s fare is top notch. such as previous higlights Outkast, vulkanfisk.no Björk, Queens of the Stone Age, 2. Hitchhiker This street-food specialist Kraftwerk, Kanye West, Aphex opened in April 2014 and its banh mi buns are Oslo’s best. 01 Twin, Lykke Li, Kendrick Lamar, hitchhiker.no My Bloody Valentine and Slayer 3. Solberg & Hansen From hosting coffee courses in intimate, verdant surroundings, to recommending beans, the button-bright staff are all just a stone’s throw from the rest a coffee-lover’s dream. sh.no

Oslo has to oﬀer. 03 04 05

restaurant Humble pie Since November 2012, Anders Braathen has been serving a lip-smacking medley of comfort food at his restaurant Smalhans just south of St Hanshaugen Park. The food may change seasonally but treats such as charcoal-grilled burgers and homemade bread are never far from chef Karla Siverts’ menu. Meaning “poor man”, the restaurant’s name is a nod to the unpretentious, humble style of First artist announcement its owner. “The concept was to start a place where you could find good food, natural wine and tickets on sale and a great beer selection at a good price,” says Braathen. December 1st. Johannes Granseth Strømøy, Kolstø Photos: Eystein smalhans.no oyafestivalen.com oslo city survey — 25 Spirited away One for completists Liquid lunch Taste of youth accommodation Amber-hued spirit Akevitt has a unique history. Originally, in the Some of Norway’s most storied dishes are still on menus around If you’re peckish then grab a table at soup For a flavour of what it’s like to grow up in Oslo’s top hotels 15th century, the oak casks containing it were loaded onto ships the city. Whale remains a delicacy here and for the adventurous specialist Lokk on Torggata and try the dagens Norway try skolebrød or “school bread”. The 01 The Thief bound for Australia before the drink returned to be bottled in Nor- there’s lutefisk: aged, jellied cod cured in lye (a caustic alkali that suppe (daily special). We enjoyed the clear sweet custard-filled pastry is a lunchbox staple Named for the criminals way. The movement, humidity and changing temperature on board is poisonous if eaten). Only the brave order smalahove, a boiled mushroom option with wonton and sea grass. for young students and available at almost any that once dominated were thought to accelerate the ageing process. It tastes good, too. sheep’s head that is considered a delight on the west coast. lokkoslo.no bakery in town. the waterside Tjuvhol- men development, this opulent hotel and drink caffeine high education Q&A What defines your approach? spa from Oslo-based Bubbling scene Child’s play Esben Holmboe Bang Cooking has to make sense. It Mellbye architects has Fuglen’s coffee is some also has to have some roots in stolen the top spot in From the tantalising home- of the best in town and “People are turning into Head chef, Maaemo Norway’s cultural and gastro- the city’s luxury hotel ground brews at Tim Wen- the bar-by-night also sells culinary illiterates,” says food Opened in 2010, Maaemo was nomic history. It has to be about stakes since opening delboe’s sparse-but-smart the beautiful mid-centrury writer Andreas Viestad, founder Scandinavia’s first restaurant preparing the best possible last year. coffee bar on Grüners gate to Norwegian furniture that of the non-profit Geitmyra to receive two Michelin stars produce we can get. We have a Landgangen 1 the decidedly alluring ambi- adorns its shop. Culinary Center for Children. on its first review. Chef Esben dedicated two-man team work- thethief.com ence at Norwegian-design “Here children learn about Holmboe Bang (pictured, on ing on finding fresh produce 02 PS:Hotell haven Fuglen (pictured, far where food comes from.” left) serves up his story. and every week we adjust the The comfortable and right, top), few do coffee or A slice of countryside within menu, which is made up of 20 reliable PS:Hotell is coffee shops better than the the city, Geitmyra works with Why did you start Maaemo? to 25 courses. situated opposite the Oslovians. “There have been the city’s education depart- We wanted to create a different Mathallen food market people pushing coffee quality ment to bring schools to the set-up where we could make Can you tell us about one of in Vulkan. The attentive in Oslo for years,” says award- farm and has fun-filled open a restaurant that had a strong your creations? staff are from disadvan- winning barista Wendelboe, days for families. identity unlike others that are We have amazing langoustines taged backgrounds and who opened shop in 2007 geitmyra.no heavily influenced by French in Norway that we lightly fry are helped back into after stints at local firms cooking. We wanted to do in butter infused with spruce regular employment Solberg & Hansen and Stock- something that reflected where and then glaze in a gel made of by the hotel. Maridalsveien 13 fleths. Across town there’s we are, which region we’re in cold-pressed grape seeds and pshotell.no Java, former-architect Robert and the nature around us. We pickled spruce. We serve it with Thoresen’s contemporary use a lot of different techniques a fog that smells of the forest. 03 Grand Hotel Oslo space (pictured, above right). but the focus of the dishes is Langoustine and pine is our Grand by name and by timwendelboe.no; fuglen.com; something that is personal and version of surf and turf. nature, this hotel has javaoslo.no reflects the time we’re in. maaemo.no accommodated exacting visitors since 1874. Try the Palmen restau- restaurant drink restaurant rant for afternoon tea, the Grand Café for an Grand designs Political punch Go native aperitif or the top-floor Etoile Bar overlooking Elegant cut-glass chandeliers Established in 2003, bar and In Michelin-star chef Even the parliament. light the way to your table at concert venue Internasjonalen Ramsvik’s kitchen, the distinc- Karl Johans gate 31 the grand Olympen restaurant occupies the bottom two tive flavours of his native grand.no in the multicultural Grønland floors of the Labour party country’s often-ignored food neighbourhood. Don’t let the headquarters at Youngstorget are artfully transformed into 04 Hotel Bristol floor-to-ceiling frescos throw Square. Downstairs, drinks sumptuous tasting plates in A short walk from you though: chef Alexander are served while the upstairs six or eight-course sittings. Aker Brygge and Karl Johans gate, the Hellerød’s (pictured) traditional doubles as a gallery, cub and Tender scallops from Frøya Bristol’s rooms are light Norwegian-style food is as poetry-reading space. Try the to Oslo’s west and fresh sea and spacious and the down-to-earth as it comes. Caribbean-inspired Carriacou urchin from Tromsø in the Library Bar and Winter Opened in 2007, it has forged Rum Punch (pictured), mixed north are accompanied by Garden alone are worth a reputation for hearty portions with homemade nutmeg syrup, turbot baked in hay and aged a visit. and attention to detail. Angostura bitters and fresh lime. Angus beef. Kristian IV’s gate 7 olympen.no Youngstorget 2A ylajali.no bristol.no 05 Hotel Continental Open since 1900, hub market this centrally located Back to your roots Easy being green stopover maintains a bygone grandeur and Food Studio is a creative hub that enlists the Every other Thursday Oslo’s standards remain high. help of film-makers, designers, farmers and conscientious consumers Stortingsgaten 24-26 researchers to raise public awareness of the flock to the Mathallen food hotelcontinental.no provenance of food. “We didn’t know what it market to nab a veg bag cour- would be at the beginning,” says founder tesy of Kooperativet. Founded Cecilie Dawes, who started the initiative three in spring 2013, the volunteer- monocle comment years ago after quitting her job at a national run project is a subscription food chain. As well as hosting one-off meals, service that supplies shoppers Despite the above there is tours, events and lectures around Oslo, the with produce from organic still room to develop a hotel company hosted its inaugural event in Paris farms. The €24-a-bag service that offers solid design, this year, which will be followed by similar is eyeing new venues to Norwegian-made blankets gatherings in Melbourne and Tokyo. accommodate its popularity. and superior service. foodstudio.no kooperativet.no

26 — oslo city survey oslo city survey — 27 nature 100 40 7,500 Along for the ride Pay a visit In bloom & leisure Number of bike stations where two-wheelers can Islands to explore in the Oslofjord. The closest to the mainland are Number of plant species in the Botanical Garden, which belongs to be rented for up to three hours. bysykler.no just a 10-minute ferry ride away and promise scenic delights. the Natural History Museum of the University of Oslo. nhm.uio.no

Overview

— Oslovians seem innately outdoorsy whatever the weather. With substantially shorter working hours than elsewhere in Europe they have plenty of time to enjoy hiking, skiing, sailing and mushroom picking, all within easy reach of the city centre. sailing Blue bloods Perhaps it is a remnant of the area’s seafaring Viking past or simply the luxury of Oslo’s glistening waterfront but sailing is one of summer’s most popular pastimes. Prince or pauper, owning a boat is a must and when Monocle visited the waterfront, King Harald V hiking was competing in a regatta aboard his classic Unbeaten tracks Johan Anker-designed yacht Sira. On the second weekend of June the Royal Twenty minutes from the city Norwegian Yacht Club hosts the Faerder centre, tall green pines replace Regatta: one of the world’s largest overnight Oslo’s streets and buildings. races that sees more than 1,000 boats race In fact, protected forests and 154km south from Oslo to Horten. waterways cover almost two kongelignorskseilforening.no thirds of the capital so a trip to the woods is a weekly ritual for most. The Norwegian Trek- swimming sightseeing king Association has laid out Dare to dip On the hop one of Europe’s largest hiking networks measuring 20,000km With on average 1,668 hours of Jump on a ferry to discover the and around 24 wooden cabins sunshine a year, when Oslo’s islands scattered throughout scatter the hills offering summer hits it is time for the Oslofjord. Hovedøya, with a handy rest. a swim. You can embrace the its scenic harbour and 12th- turistforeningen.no custom headfirst from Tjuvhol- century monastic ruins, men pier (pictured, left) or try is closest to shore but there the outdoor pool at Frogner- is no shortage of spots to fitness badet near Vigeland Sculpture explore: Lindøya (pictured, Sports days Park. The forest lakes and far left), Nakholmen, Bleikøya, Aker River’s 20 waterfalls are Gressholmen and Langøyene 01 Oslo Marathon great swimming spots, as is for starters. Sheep and Every September over Bygdøy Beach on the city’s cottages dot the islands, 25,000 runners race western peninsula. which are ideal for picnics. through the capital, past City Hall and along the waterfront, in the outdoors skiing Oslo Marathon. Pick and mix Take a powder oslomaraton.no 02 klatreverket Bring an empty bag and head At more than 96 metres long and 60 metres high Norway’s largest to the hills for some sopp the sparkling steel ramp of Holmenkollen’s ski indoor climbing gym (mushroom) hunting. Towards jump towers above the city. It was completed four with 14-metre-high the end of August, multitudes years ago to replace the original ski jump from scaling walls. of mushrooms and berries the 1952 Winter Olympics. The spot also features klatreverket.no burst into life in the wooded the world’s oldest ski museum. 03 Bislett Stadium hills around the city. Expertly Skiing is a large part of Oslo’s culture and as The venue’s based in trolling the forests for blue- soon as the powder settles, locals and tourists alike St Hanshaugen, seats berries and chanterelles is a head for the slopes. There are 460km of cross- 15,400 and has been tradition passed on from one country trails and then there’s Oslo’s Winter Park: a sporting attraction generation to the next. Volun- the region’s largest ski resort, with 18 runs and 11 since 1907. teer mushroom-control units lifts. Stop by between November and April. bislettstadion.no are also on hand to make sure

holmenkollen.com; oslovinterpark.no p hotogra hy: Pål Karlsen your find isn’t poisonous.

28 — oslo city survey oslo city survey — 29 02 Five essential vigeland Some sculpture park experiences Embrace the outdoors Cycle west from the city centre to the sprawling greenery of Frogner Park for a glimpse 01 of Oslo’s most iconic landmark. of grand café Built between 1939 and 1949, this monolithic masterclass in Drink in public art was erected by Nor- good company wegian-born Gustav Vigeland Once a favoured haunt of and these captivating bronze, gloomy artist Edvard Munch granite and wrought-iron figures our and Nobel prize-winning are as arresting as ever. playwright Henrik Ibsen, the bohemian Grand Café on Karl Johans gate in the city centre is the best place to wet your whistle. Oslo has changed best a lot since the café opened its doors in 1874 but the Grand has always been a go-to for people-watching. ideas will 04 constitution day 03 Dress up and step out aker river Go with the flow If you are after a fetching new never look then this national holiday By now you will have heard is the perfect excuse for some about Oslo’s privileged dressed-up merriment. On 17 location between fjord and May each year locals throng the forest but Norway’s natural streets in traditional bunad dress bounty can also be found (think folksy scarves, shawls and see throughout the capital. You traditional hats). This spring, can even drop a line and celebrations were even more catch your supper direct from jubilant than usual as Norway the fast-flowing Aker River celebrated 200 years since the that bisects the city. creation of its constitution. the 05 oslo fjord Take to the water

Stand on deck with the wind in your hair on one light of the many ferries that criss-cross between the islands of Oslo’s breathtaking fjord. And if you’re game, do as the locals do and take a dip. Landlubbers also have of the option of soaking up the scenery from the pretty beaches of Bygdøy in the city’s west. day. 30 — oslo city survey Startup Work

Study Welcome to Oslo Invest - the capital of Norway.