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THE MONOCLE GUIDE to TOKYO Beyond Tokyo’S Delights Lies a Network of Clean Streets TRAVEL and Warm Hospitality

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THE MONOCLE GUIDE to TOKYO Beyond Tokyo’S Delights Lies a Network of Clean Streets TRAVEL and Warm Hospitality THE MONOCLE GUIDE THE TOKYO TO Monocle guide to Tokyo Tokyo is an ever-changing city that never ceases to surprise. The capital is filled with a dazzling mix of old and new, tradition and innovation in everything from food to architecture and art to fashion. YA N A K A I S H A B N O H H A I R N A J U K U A Z N I A G O Y A M A U K O G O K Y A R N / D E A A M A R U K 2. HARAJUKU 4. KANDA 6. GINZA The pop-culture This northeast Japa n’s premiu m epicentre sits next neighbourhood district is home to a shrine and a is attracting to big businesses national gymnasium. design and fashion and cultural businesses. institutions. 1. YANAKA 3. AOYAMA This Tokyo downtown Tok yo’s fashion 5. KURAMAE/ 7. NIHONBASHI area still retains capital also has RYOGOKU Young talent in its charming, old- museums, greenery, Take a deep dive hospitality and TOKYO METROPOLITAN GOVERNMENT METROPOLITAN TOKYO fashioned cityscape. food and more. into the old Tokyo. retail is moving in. 3 1MONOCLE THE MONOCLE GUIDE TO TOKYO TO Beyond Tokyo’s delights lies a network of clean streets TRAVEL and warm hospitality. Amid the changing landscape of ETIQUETTE 2020, the city is drawing on its strengths with an eye to welcoming visitors to the city. Initiatives include a guide to good manners while on the move, dining out or staying overnight. From a smart safety app to handy tips, Tokyo is supporting responsible travel. 5. TRAVEL OFF-PEAK AND 6. WASHING YOUR HANDS MAKES For more information about ENJOY THE RIDE FOR A HEALTHY TRAVEL HABIT Tokyo’s prevention measures No one looks forward to an Responsible travel means taking your and updates on coronavirus, overcrowded bus or train. Plan best manners with you. Throughout visit: www.gotokyo.org/en/ ahead to avoid the bustle and be the journey, make clean hands part plan/coronavirus-information rewarded with a peaceful journey. of your daily routine. 1. SUITCASE, PASSPORT, 2. PATIENCE PROVIDES PEACE OF MIND 7. KEEP AN EYE OUT FOR 8. RESERVING YOUR SPOT MAKES COCOA – LET’S GO! Don’t forget to wait for the next connection THIS BADGE OF HONOUR ENTRY A BREEZE Designed with safe travel in at a safe distance. The extra space provides Tokyo’s Covid-19 safety Booking systems are being rolled out across mind, the COCOA app sends a chance to relax, putting the mind at ease. stickers are a sign that the board for events and exhibitions so notifications about possible businesses of all types have attendance numbers are well managed and contact with coronavirus. taken measures to protect trip planning is all the more convenient. Download it before take-off. staff and customers. 3. WISE ADDITION TO YOUR 4. MASKS ARE A SMART 9. BREATH OF FRESH AIR 10. BROWSE WITH YOUR EYES, NOT MORNING ROUTINE APPROACH TO SAFETY Ventilation need not be a pain. Take YOUR HANDS A temperature check might only take Face coverings play an important the chance to appreciate a different Japanese shops are known for their a moment but it helps ensure you role, putting you at ease in the side of your destination, whether it pleasing displays. Take in these start the day off on the right foot. company of others, while reassuring be fresh city views, sea breezes or aesthetic arrangements as you ponder those around you. the rhythms of nature. your next purchase. TOKYO METROPOLITAN GOVERNMENT METROPOLITAN TOKYO 3 MONOCLE 2 3 THE MONOCLE GUIDE TO TOKYO TO 1. YANAKA 1 2 TOKYOBIKE YANAKA Getting around Tokyobike’s flagship presents a line-up of bicycles tailored to the needs of city cyclists. The shop is also stocked with riding accessories and apparel, along with lifestyle goods and some charming local finds. 4-2-39 Yanaka, Taito-ku 03-5809-0980 tokyobike.com 2. KAYABA COFFEE 1. YANAKA Caffeine fix Marked by a glowing golden sign, Kayaba Coffee KURAMAE/ is one of Yanaka’s much- RYOGOKU loved landmarks. Venture inside the 104-year-old townhouse and you’ll find Yanaka moves at a 3 a kissaten with old- different pace from fashioned charm and an ever-evolving menu. much of Tokyo. Maybe 6-1-29 Yanaka, Taito-ku it’s the presence of 03-5832-9896 so many temples; facebook.com/kayabacoffee KANDA Tennoji, the oldest in the area, was founded in 1274 and sits NIHONBASHI alongside the famous cemetery where Japan’s last shogun is buried. As the city has changed around it, HARAJUKU Yanaka has retained its old-fashioned 4 5 GINZA atmosphere. Vacant wooden buildings have been brought back to life with new AOYAMA businesses finding fresh purpose as cafés, noodle shops and galleries. 3. 4. 5. VANER SCAI THE BATHHOUSE YANAKA CEMETERY Tuck in Art scene A moment to reflect The scent of freshly baked Scai the Bathhouse is a Covering about 10 hectares, bread is a sign that Vaner one-of-a-kind venue for this scenic cemetery is is near. Located inside contemporary art. Formerly the resting place of the Ueno Sakuragi Atari a public bathhouse, the important cultural figures, complex, the Scandinavian- minimalist space hosts including writers, painters style bakery has attracted a a range of exhibitions and other luminaries. The following for its sourdough by leading artists, such sakura-lined avenue makes bread and cinnamon and as Lee Ufan, Kohei Nawa for a peaceful stroll cardamom rolls. and Mariko Mori. through Yanaka. 2-15-6 Ueno Sakuragi, 6-1-23 Yanaka, Taito-ku 7-5-24 Yanaka, Taito-ku Taito-ku 03-3821-1144 03-3821-4456 03-5834-8137 scaithebathhouse.com tokyo-park.or.jp TOKYO METROPOLITAN GOVERNMENT METROPOLITAN TOKYO 3 MONOCLE 4 5 THE MONOCLE GUIDE TO TOKYO TO 2. HARAJUKU 1 2 3 Harajuku is a neighbourhood of contrasts, home to the Meiji Shrine, which is surrounded by one of Tokyo’s largest green spaces, and a dense 1 network of small streets packed with shops and cafés. Harajuku is a magnet for fashion followers, while Omotesando pulls in tourists and shoppers who come to enjoy the dazzling array of designer outlets. 1. 2. 3. NEZU MUSEUM MIYAGAWA AURALEE Culture highlight Taste of tradition Clarity of design Designed by Kengo Kuma, Isao Kanemasa has been Ryota Iwai combines high- this museum is home to an at Miyagawa for 50 quality fabrics with clean impressive collection of years. The chef prepares silhouettes – see them pre-modern art from Japan, lightly battered prawns, at the brand’s flagship, China and East Asia. The seasonal vegetables where minimalist spaces 1. 2. 3. garden is also a highlight: and other delights with and contrasting textures MEIJI SHRINE SNOW PEAK LAND YOYOGI NATIONAL its winding paths are ideal precision, delivering provide the backdrop to Pay your respects STATION HARAJUKU GYMNASIUM for a post-exhibition wander. them straight to the seasonal collections. Made in Japan Design vision This Shinto shrine is 6-5-1 Minami Aoyama, plates of waiting diners. 6-3-2 Minami Aoyama, dedicated to the deified Snow Peak’s concept shop The Kenzo Tange-designed Minato-ku 6-1-6 Minami Aoyama, Minato-ku souls of Emperor Meiji and and café is deeply rooted gymnasium has been a 03-3400-2536 Minato-ku 03-6427-6336 Empress Shoken. Arriving in the land, highlighting prominent feature of the nezu-muse.or.jp 03-3400-5541 auralee.jp is a journey in itself: the lesser-known places, outdoor Yoyogi Park area since route to the shrine passes wares and products and 1964. With its signature through towering gates and flavours from around Japan. suspension roof, its a 100-year-old forest. With Harajuku, 1-14 influence on architecture can 1-1 Yoyogi Kamizono-cho, Jingumae, Shibuya-ku be seen around the world. Shibuya-ku 03-5843-1794 2-1-1 Jin na n, Shibuya-ku 03-3379-5511 snowpeak.co.jp/landstation/ 03-3468-1171 meijijingu.or.jp harajuku jpnsport.go.jp/yoyogi 4. 4. 2 3 AFURI RAMEN BLAMINK Yuzu does it 3. AOYAMA Timeless appeal Just a short stroll from The brand’s Bauhaus-inspired Harajuku Station, Afuri flagship features Blamink is renowned for its yuzu design team’s refined men’s shio ramen. The tiny yellow This residential neighbourhood also hosts and womenswear. High citrus plays a starring upmarket fashion shops. Chic boutiques ceilings and clean lines role here, adding a sit alongside one of the city’s most exquisite complement the brand’s refreshing touch to the museums and the Tessen-kai Noh theatre, luxurious wares. signature dish. 6-3-16 Minami Aoyama, 3-63-1 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku where actors perform centuries-old Minato-ku 03-6438-1910 dance-dramas. Aoyama Cemetery is a 03-5774-9899 afuri.com green pocket that in spring puts on one store.united-arrows.co.jp/ of Tokyo’s finest cherry blossom displays. shop/bl 5. 5. 4 5 THINK OF THINGS 4 5 TARO OKAMOTO Pen pals MEMORIAL MUSEUM Surreal sculptures Stationery, notebooks and office supplies Hidden in the Aoyama take centre-stage here. back streets, the Stationery-maker Kokuyo residence of the late curates some much-loved Taro Okamoto is now home classics and also develops to a museum providing an new releases for the shop. insight into the renowned Browse with a coffee from artist’s works. the in-store café. 6-1-19 Mina mi Aoya ma, 3-62-1 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku Minato-ku 03-6447-1113 03-3406-0801 think-of-things.com ta r o - ok a m oto.or.jp TOKYO METROPOLITAN GOVERNMENT METROPOLITAN TOKYO 3 MONOCLE 6 7 THE MONOCLE GUIDE TO TOKYO TO 1.
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