The Monocle Survey 2009

Finance, logistics, culture, tourism: a national survey of the forces shaping Singapore SINGAPORE

HOST CITY

Welcome

Monocle’s National Survey: Singapore There are few countries that can be seen in their entirety from just a few thousand feet above sea level but it’s the compact, city-state profile that makes Singapore such a curious player on the international stage and attractive hub for businesses from a host of sectors. As other nations have spent billions attracting investment and talent to create similar groupings of logistics companies, banks, hotel groups, respected academic institutions and technology , virtually all have to follow a model that Singapore’s been honing for decades. Having established itself as not only the most important commerce centre in Southeast Asia but also a benchmark for everything from civil aviation management to public housing development, the nation state is now staring out across the horizon and charting its next act to stay relevant and, more importantly, competitive. In a world that’s increasingly going point to point when it comes to travel (longer range, more fuel-e4cient aircraft threaten major transit hubs such as Singapore’s Changi) and is also interested in one-stop solutions (will Shanghai eventually emerge as Asia’s singular global financial hub?), Singapore has its share of challenges in both the short and long term but it’s also been moving swiftly to develop new areas of expertise to diversify its o3er. For the past three months 9;:;687 editors and writers have been shuttling in and out of Singapore to interview 67;s, sample exhibitions, visit refineries and simply scope out the streets.While the scale and pace of development for the new integrated resorts beyond the financial district is breathtaking and the growth in medical tourism should be of concern to Bangkok up the road, the most impressive development in the country’s economy is the rise of a new class of young, globally minded entrepreneurs who are adding a new layer to the , restaurant, media and hotel scene. Clever duos such as Karen Wai and Kenny Leck and their bookstore and publishing business, and Jane Hia and her burgeoning cafés are a fresh force that are inspiring others to take risks and challenge convention in a society that has long had a top down approach to steering and stimulating economic development.With the government placing an emphasis (and significant funds) on attracting more creative industries while nurturing talent at home, Singapore is rewriting the mission for what it means to be a hub in the 21st century and hoping it will Serving up in continue to lead and force others to follow. — <5

August 2010 Singapore 003 National Survey www.singapore2010.sg 014/015 Transport: Singapore Airlines, Changi Airport and the International Cruise Terminal. Plus why you can get almost anywhere in Singapore in just :9 minutes.

016/017 Tourism: How Singapore is catering to its increasing visitor numbers, including the top hotels and the best bars and restaurants. Plus five neighbourhoods that Contents/ you shouldn’t miss. 018/019 Technology & Contributors alternative energy: Biopolis science park and five Singapore technology Editor innovations. Plus how the tiny Liv Lewitschnik nation is leading the way in its use ofalternative energy and Writers water solutions. Ben Bland (;;) 020/025 Tyler Brûlé (A;) Arts & media: Katharine Ee (>=) 006/007 Singapore’s repositioning as Eric Ellis (==) State of the nation: a cultural centre, including its Liv Lewitschnik (??) Mapping the fortunes and new National Art Gallery, Daven Wu (

004 Singapore National Survey Sembawang

Lim Chu Kang

Sungai Buloh Seletar Airport Seletar Reservoir

Pulau Ubin island

Changi Village Choa Chu Kang

Singapore FreePort Changi Airport Serangoon Gardens

Toa Payoh Bukit Timah

Biopolis Holland Village Old School Geylang Dempsey Arab Quarter Katong village Stadium MRT station Singapore Airlines Bras Basah MRT station

National University of Singapore Mediapolis Little India Chinatown

Shipyard Marina Bay Sands Tiong Bahru Marina South Cruise-ship terminal Pasir Panjang Marina bay Sands area Jurong Island State of PSA Corporation/port the nation Sentosa Island Jurong Rock Caverns Overview

Singapore is small in size (but growing in area) and big in terms of diversity. Its population of 0.1 million consists of Chinese, Malays, Indians and foreign residents.With such a rich cultural mix, it’s no surprise that its creative output is so varied. From the hills of Chinatown to Little India’s bustling streets and the Arab Quarter, a new confidence is emerging among the young entrepreneurs who are reshaping their country.The Lion City abounds with investment opportunities in everything from petrochemicals at Jurong Island to retail outlets at Orchard Road and Ann Siang Hill, alternative energy in Tuas and biological research at Biopolis in the west.This is our survey of the people and powers transforming the nation. — 

006 Singapore 007 National Survey Singapore vs The power of the Interview Hong Kong Koh Boon Hwee Singapore’s fiercest national The Singapore dollar might While the financial crisis will rival in the financial sector is not yet have the same “safe lead to stricter regulation and Hong Kong, another city haven” pull as its American less risk-taking around the that’s open to foreign namesake but the currency world, Singapore’s banking investment, uses English as is still considered to be one sector is in a strong position, its main language and oMers of the most resilient in Asia, according to Koh Boon businesses first-rate services. thanks to the stable economic Hwee, the chairman of the Although Singapore was and political outlook and city-state’s largest bank, DBS. growing strongly before the the large current account “While there are troubled financial crisis, Hong Kong surplus. As an additional global institutions that may remains in the lead.The total confidence-generating withdraw from Asia, strong value of Hong Kong’s stock measure, all the notes in banks will renew their focus market is around five times circulation are fully backed on the region as it is a greater than Singapore’s. by the government’s foreign growing part of the world.” However, the primacy exchange reserves. So it’s Koh says that markets are of Hong Kong’s stock no wonder that many of the beginning to open again and market has been a blessing in region’s tycoons opt to he expects more mergers disguise, with tumbling share stockpile their personal riches and takeovers within Asia prices shrinking the wealth in Singapore dollars. — OO as ambitious executives of the city’s high-net-worth take advantage of low stock investors last year.The market valuations. — OO number of US dollar millionaires in Hong Kong slumped by ID per cent last year to FJ,CCC, whereas Singapore saw a drop of just EE per cent to ID,CCC, according to Merrill Lynch Finance and Capgemini. However, Koh Boon Hwee, chairman of DBS, believes that despite the competition, both cities are largely complementary. Overview “Hong Kong might be in front in terms of assets- The government’s prudent fiscal approach helped it to amass under-management but vast financial reserves of hundreds of billions of dollars but it Singapore leads in the Asian had to dip into the kitty for the first time ever this year to help dollar foreign exchange fund the S$EC.Hbn (€DCbn) economic resilience package. market,” he notes. “In any Singapore’s two massive sovereign wealth funds, Temasek and case, Asia is very large and I GIC, have also been hit by the global slowdown, with Temasek’s don’t think there’ll be just one portfolio shrinking by FD per cent to S$DEJbn (€IEbn) financial centre in Asia, there between March and November last year as it paid the price for will be several.” its investments in troubled western banks such as Merrill Alvin Liew, an economist Lynch and Barclays. Since those dark days,Temasek’s chief at Standard Chartered in executive Ho Ching has signalled that the fund will expand its Singapore, also believes there investments in still-growing Asia, while reducing its exposure to is plenty of room for both developed economies. cities to grow. “There are still STP, which took stakes in XOW and Citigroup shortly niche markets for Hong Kong before the credit crunch struck, has also suMered but it has in China and likewise for indicated that it will remain a long-term investor in the western Singapore in Southeast Asia,” financial sector.With cash burning a hole in their pockets and he says. “Going forward, stock market valuations looking cheap,Temasek and STP are Hong Kong might have a likely to go on a cautious international acquisition drive over harder time competing with the next year or two, making them even more globally Shanghai than Singapore.” influential. — OO David Cohen, an economist at Action Economics Top five things Temasek owns in Singapore, adds that both cities have their own unique D PSA International, one of the world’s largest benefits: “In Singapore, they cargo port operators like to point out that the air is E Singapore Power, the domestic energy supplier cleaner here but Hong Kong F Changi Airport Group residents argue that theirs is a G An KK per cent stake in Wildlife Reserves, parent company more exciting city.” — OO of the Singapore Zoo, Night Safari and Jurong Bird Park H A HH per cent stake in SingTel, a regional mobile phone giant

Singapore 009 Footnote 01: Go for gold: As of the end of last year, Singapore had total National Survey foreign reserves of S$250bn, the majority of which were in gold and foreign exchange (S$249.5bn). Trade relations Currently, Singapore Five key sectors boasts few indigenous Singapore’s five biggest export markets and global brands. Here are 1 Healthcare: Some what they buy: five that we reckon could 400,000 overseas patients go global. are treated in Singapore 1 Malaysia (S$57.6bn/€28.3bn) – Electronic goods, 1 Totobobo is a respiratory every year (Robert petrochemicals, telecoms equipment mask for adults and kids, Mugabe is among the offering protection against less appealing fans) 2 Hong Kong (S$49.5bn/€24.3bn) – Electronic goods, airborne viruses and and the government wants petrochemicals, telecoms equipment pollution. Business is to attract one million booming because of the international patients a 3 Indonesia (S$50.3bn/€24.7bn) – Electronic goods, H1N1 flu pandemic and year by 2012. A swanky petrochemicals, telecoms equipment, civil engineering inventor Francis Chu 350-suite private hospital equipment believes the mask will in Novena by is due to continue to sell to cyclists, open in 2012. 4 China (S$43.8bn/€21.5bn) – Electronic goods, travellers and industrial 2 Tourism: Still a stopover petrochemicals, health and environmental services, workers. — bb destination, more than 10 logistics, infrastructure 2 The Central Provident million tourists visited Barmy for Tiger Balm Fund: Singapore’s Singapore last year but 5 US (S$33.4bn/€16.4bn) – Electronic goods, IT services, privately funded social arrivals slowed as the A cure-all ointment concocted by brothers Aw Boon Haw medical devices, trade within multinational companies. — bb security savings scheme global recession took hold. and Aw Boon Par in the early 20th century,Tiger Balm is works by employees The opening of tw o new Singapore’s most ubiquitous export. Sold in almost 100 contributing 20 per cent of integrated resorts in early countries, the menthol and mint-based heat rub is used to treat their salary to the fund, 2010 should provide a aches and pains by everyone from English rugby players to topped up by 14.5 per cent much-needed boost. Thai kick-boxers and flu-ridden Chinese grandmothers. — bb from employers, and they 3 Investment banking: earn between 2.5 and 5 per While widespread cent interest. It has 3.26 redundancies have hit Interview million members who are morale in the banking only allowed to spend community, the mood has APEC Economy wisely – mortgages and lightened, with markets You might think the last thing health are rebounding and companies Asia needs is another regional sanctioned spends. A night starting to raise money and forum but Michael Tay, at the Blac kjack table isn’t. make acquisitions. “We executive director of this 3 OSIM iEcologi: In don’t see any signs of year’s Asia-Pacific Economic OSIM’s catalogue of retreat from foreign banks Cooperation (APEC) in Overview massage chairs and foot such as Goldman Sachs or Singapore, begs to differ. reflexology machines is also Morgan Stanley,” says “APEC is unique because it’s With a heavy reliance on exports, Singapore was the first the iEcologi.This vacuum DBS chairman Koh Boon composed of economies, not Asian nation to slide into recession last year when global trade cleaner traps dust in a Hwee. “But Asian banks countries,” he explains. collapsed in the wake of the banking crisis. Its status as one of water-filled compartment, will get more aggressive.” “We’re not looking at binding the world’s most nimble and open economies will ensure that which can then be emptied 4 Aviation: Because of its legal agreements but at ways the Lion City roars again when the global economy turns into the garden. Separate position, Singapore has to promote business in the around. Following the sharp economic contraction during the attachments transform the become a major air region by encouraging lower second half of 2008 and early 2009, the decline has slowed and machine into a steam transport hub. Changi trade tariffs, streamlined “the sentiment in Singapore has improved significantly”, cleaner or an air purifier. Airport is one of the standards and better access according to Beh Swan Gin, managing director of Singapore’s 4 Stikfas: Part grown-up world’s busiest and budget to trade financing.” Economic Development Board. “There is a general sense toy, part collector’s item, flights with Tiger Airways APEC will reach its that things have bottomed out though – calling it a recovery the Stikfas action figure has and JetStar Asia opening climax in November when may be an overstatement,” he says.This view is backed up by legions of fans.The doll up air travel to Asians leaders of 21 economies will economists, who are forecasting a 6 per cent GdP contraction comes in a huge range of who could not previously converge for two key this year but expect the economy to bounce back robustly in wildly imaginative designs, afford to fly. summits. — bb 2010, growing by 4 per cent. Having established itself as a each with a distinct 5 Defence: Although centre for the manufacture of semi-conductors and disk drives personality and great retro Singapore has traditionally Singapore has diversified into other industries. names such as Darkland exported arms to developing No need to repeat Oil rigs “Our recovery will be predicated on our ability to Bones Jones and Alpha nations such as Bangladesh, adapt to the new environment and adjust our manufacturing Male Musketeer. Brazil and India, it is Thirty per cent of the world’s The world’s third largest export base,” argues Koh Boon Hwee, chairman of DBS bank. “If 5 Singapore’s civil service increasingly selling its hearing aids are produced in refining centre, Singapore is you’re a big economy like the US, it’s like turning round a is based on a meritocracy. military equipment to more Singapore, largely thanks to also a leader in producing the supertanker but if you’re small like Singapore, it’s easier to The government hand- established markets – the Siemens, the German kit that aspiring oil powers make a turn.”The government has moved to mitigate the picks the brightest students UK recently bought 100 engineering giant that’s a need. Spearheaded by local effects of the slowdown with an unprecedented S$20.5bn and offers them scholar- Warthog armoured ve hicles leader in developing hearing offshore marine technology (€10bn) resilience packa ge. “The government’s reaction was ships to blue-chip for £150m (€170m) from products. Globally, just one in companies Sembcorp and much swifter than expected,” explains Alvin Liew, an universities around the ST Engineering. More four of the people who need a Keppel, Singapore has 70 per economist at Standard Chartered. “It focused on minimising job world in exchange for a international deals are on hearing aid actually own one cent of the global market for losses and helping businesses stay afloat by providing credit period of service (usually the cards as it develops and, with many of these oil refinery and rig and subsidising training opportunities during this period of at least five years) after innovative technologies for potential customers located in equipment. — ll exceptionally low demand.”This has helped Singapore to lay graduation, with remun- unmanned, computerised Asia, the industry is likely to ground to further develop a knowledge-based economy. — bb eration packages.— dw warfare. — bb see robust growth. — bb

010 Singapore Footnote 02: Give them credit: Out of Singapore’s 114 banks, six are 011 National Survey local with total assets of S$668.5bn. Jurong Island Jurong Island facts:

Military air, sea and land Rock Caverns patrols safeguard the seven Space is tight on Jurong reclaimed islets that make up Island – although the Jurong Island in the country’s landmass will eventually southwest from unwanted cover 32 sq km when land visitors. It comes as no reclamation is completed – so surprise, considering that expansion is now underway more than 95 local and under the sea. Developed by international petroleum local JTC Corporation and corporations – such as Shell built by Korean M/s Hyundai and ExxonMobil, as well as Engineering & Construction, Singapore FreePort petrochemical firms including caves with the capacity to Sumitomo Chemicals – store nearly 1.47 million Art collectors, dealers and auction houses will have the world’s generate 39 per cent of the cubic metres of crude oil and largest, and Asia’s first, secure storage space come January country’s manufacturing diesel will be ready by 2013. 2010, when the S$90m (€44m) Singapore FreePort opens next output, billions in revenue to Changi Airport. ’s Christie’s has already bagged 40 (nearly S$260bn/€128bn in Oil refineries per cent of the first 22,500 sq m space and will enjoy the 2008) and daily refine 1.3 Jurong Island’s highway benefits of a free-trade zone and tax-free rules. “We have million barrels of oil here. was recently moved to developed the Fort Knox of this millennium for high-value Singapore is now the world’s make way fo r Exxon Mobil’s collectibles,” says co-founder and preside nt of the FreePort, third largest oil refining new refining site.When Alain Vandenborre, a Belgian entrepreneur. Jointly owned by centre after the US Gulf completed in 2011, it will be Swiss art mover and storage firm Natural Le Coultre. — LL Coast and Rotterdam.With the corporation’s largest. an expert 8,000-strong Shell, which built Singapore’s workforce and seamless first refinery at Pulau Bukom, integration from receiving the another island not far away Logistics world’s oil – the Very Large from Jurong Island, where Crude Carrier Osprey was it’s the sole operator, is docked when MonocLe also expanding with a new visited – to refining and plant for chemicals petrochemical output, Jurong manufacturing. — LL Island is an ideal site for petrochemicals firms looking for a new base. — LL Overview

Geography and the Singaporean reputation for getting things done have combined to make this little island nation a major logistics centre. If you’re a shipping manager moving tomatoes from Australia to China or aircraft parts from Dubai to Papua New Guinea, you’ll hope that your products will go via Singapore.Why? They’re unlikely to be stolen or damaged and will arrive on time because of Singapore’s efficient port and airport. Just look at the numbers. Almost 116, 000 planes took Port off from Changi Airport’s (see page 14) tarmac and over 131,000 ships docked at the port last year. As Kelvin Wong, director of Almost 30 million containers passed through logistics and urban solutions at the Singapore Economic Singapore’s container port, the world’s largest, Development Board, says, “Apart from its strong shipping in 2008.The port is connected to 600 ports in connectivity, Singapore is also known for its reliability and 123 countries and serves 200 shipping lines. efficiency. Shippers know that they can count on Singapore to The terminal operator, PSA International, has get their goods on to the right ships on time operations in 28 ports and generated nearly or ahead of time.” S$4.4bn (€2.1bn) in revenue in 2008.That However, in the world of cargo things are never figure may very well rise: the Maritime and straightforward and the sector has been plummeting over the Port Authority is building new terminals at past year.The country will face increasing competition from Pasir Panjang at a cost of S$2bn (€980m), other ports and airports in the region, such as Shanghai and which will add 16 more berths when they are Hong Kong, as they eye its profitable business. Singapore isn’t completed in 2013. — LL going to take the threat to its logistics supremacy lying down though. It is currently adding new port terminals, building oil storage caves under the sea and extending free-trade zones close to the airport. “For Singapore to maintain its position as a premier logistics centre, we want to be the place in Asia that international and emerging companies can count on to deliver effective supply chain solutions to grow their market share in Asia,”Wong says. So, for now, the oil shipper in the Gulf or Swiss pharmaceuticals distributor are unlikely to move their businesses anywhere else. — LL

012 Singapore Footnote 03: Hub club: The World Bank ranks Singapore as the 013 National Survey globe’s leading logistics hub out of the 150 countries it surveys. Flight stats Transport stats The top 10 cities with Changi connections (as of 1 July 2009): Paved roads: 3,325km. 1 Kuala Lumpur: 490 weekly scheduled flights Number of motor-vehicles: Number of airlines: 8 894,682 (of which 540,455 2 Jakarta: 360 weekly scheduled flights are cars). Number of airlines: 10 Car age: only 23,813 cars 3 Bangkok: 260 weekly scheduled flights are aged 10 years or more. Number of airlines: 6 Road casualties: 221 killed, 4 Hong Kong: 190 weekly scheduled flights and 10,760 injured. Number of airlines: 4 MRT: The MRT’s 5 Manila: 150 weekly scheduled flights 93.2km train tracks Number of airlines: 4 carried over 619 million 6 : 112 weekly scheduled flights passengers in 2008.The Number of airlines: 5 busiest station is Raffles 7 London: 98 weekly scheduled flights Place, which reports an Number of airlines: 3 average of 133,800 8 Sydney: 98 weekly scheduled flights Changi Airport passengers per week. A Number of airlines: 3 monorail service links the 9 Shanghai Pudong: 98 weekly scheduled flights In its first year of operation mainland to Sentosa island. Number of airlines: 2 in 1981, Changi Airport (Figures are from +**-) 10 Perth: 94 weekly scheduled flights handled eight million Number of airlines: 4 passengers. Last year, that number had gone up to nearly 38 million.The Changi Airport Group, wholly owned by Singapore’s Singapore wants to unload his decade- global brands in hospitality.” sovereign wealth fund Airlines interview held 49 per cent stake in Chew cites the October 2007 Temasek Holdings, took over Branson ’s Virgin Atlantic too. launch of Airbus’s A,-* as Transport operations at the airport from Chew Choon Seng pilots one “The premium segment has emblematic of the airline’s Singapore’s Civil Aviation of the great airline brands. It’s been impacted more because ethos.The Singapore-Sydney Authority on 1 July this year. reputation is so powerful that the meltdown started with the flight was the first time the The move aims to make the Singapore Airlines chief financial sector and the A380 had flown commercially, the airport more competitive executive tells the story of a banks, and financial and it was a global marketing and strengthen its family friend from Kansas institutions were nearly a coup. It now stands as a high name at home and abroad who flew out to spend time quarter of our business,” water mark for international Overview in the face of growing in Singapore for the first time. Chew says. “These are very aviation – a week later the competition from regional “Somewhat innocently, she tough trading conditions. Our US Federal Reserve would As any taxi-driver will tell you, it takes 10 minutes to go almost airports such as Beijing thought Singapore was just forward bookings are running be forced to inject $41bn anywhere in Singapore thanks to the country’s small size and Capital International Airport, an airline,” he chortles. “She at a level of 20 per cent down (€20bn) into the American congestion charge system. Introduced in September 1998, the Shanghai’s Pudong Airport didn’t realise Singapore year-on-year.” So what about money supply to support Electronic Road Pricing system was a world first for its and Dubai International was a country too.” those elusive green shoots? the fragile banks. congestion charge on all vehicles (including taxis but excluding Airport, and the growth of It’s an example of Not visible yet, Chew says. “The A380 manifested our public buses) entering the central city area during peak non-stop flights. As the how an airline can frame The decline, he says, has long-held policy of oper- morning and evening periods. Payment of between S$1-S$2 airport’s new CEO, a nation. Chew’s anecdote bottomed out but the trend is ating a young and modern (€1) is deducted electronically via pre-paid cash-cards as Lee Seow Hiang, says: Cruise industry demonstrates how elite his equal across all operating fleet,” Chew says, “It’s also vehicles pass through gantries. “We are mindful of the brand has become – known sectors, from cargo to the been a morale booster for our The number of vehicles on the roads are curbed with competitive environment. With the air and maritime simply to the sophisticates who First and Business Class end organisation – people like to an unusual Certificate of Entitlement (COE) scheme. Residents In fact, we believe it’s healthy shipping markets pretty love it by its IATA-designated – it’s zero growth on the SQ be associated with it and that are required to bid and pay for a limited number of certificates and keeps us on our toes. much sewn up, Singapore airline code – SQ.Witness that horizon for some time. But he helps maintain our passenger in order to own a motor vehicle.This past July, the COE for a car Despite the downturn, five has been concentrating on no frequent flyer on MAS to insists SQ’s airline industry appeal that new planes and above 1601cc was S$18,501 (€9,110). Singapore’s Land new airlines have joined the developing the leisure cruise Kuala Lumpur or Lufthansa standard-setting service levels products bring.” — EE Transport Authority is currently investing S$1.17bn upgrading Changi network in the first market. Cunard, Silversea, to Berlin says they flew “MH” have not been compromised. its central and coastal expressways as well as pumping billions half of this year and we are is on upgrading airport Star Cruises and P&O or “lH” to get there.That’s a “Throughout this crisis we of Si ngapore dollars into the country’s rail network (see page expecting more to do so.” infrastructure. Changi’s lead the flotilla sa iling into great place for Chew to be in haven’t lost sight of the fact ,,).Two more lines on the Mass Rapid Transit system, the While national carrier Terminal 3 opened at the Singaporean waters. Last the marketplace but prestige that our success is rooted in SQ facts Circle and Downtown lines, will open in the next decade to Singapore Airlines accounts beginning of 2008 and year, over a thousand holiday alone doesn’t keep planes satisfying the customer.This cater for the growing number of passengers. for over 50 per cent of the ex pansion of Terminal 1 is liners called at HarbourFront profitable, as he now knows is the challenge.” Some of Passengers: 18.3m Singapore’s image is also helped by the quality of its airport’s 4,600 weekly flights, currently underway. At a and by 2015 passenger after two years of global their most frequent travellers Route network: 65 national carrier, Singapore Airlines with its classic Singapore which connect to 193 cost of S$500m (€240m), throughput is expected to recession.The preferred disagree however saying destinations in 35 countries Girl uniforms and the quality of its food and beverage menus. destinations in 60 countries, T1 will have an additional hit 1.6 million. A new choice of now-vanquished service has been down-graded. Average age of aircraft: The airline is set to add another 10 A380s to its fleet of nine, as another 84 airlines vie for a 18,000 sq m floor space, International Cruise Terminal moneymen, SQ just reported Despite the slump five years, 11 months well as another 51 Boeings and other Airbus models by 2017 to piece of the cake here too mostly dedicated to retail at Marina South is scheduled a loss of just over S$307m SQ is still investing in brand Employees: Around 14,500, its existing fleet of 108 aircraft. And you can count yourself (see flight stats). Looking and food outlets, tropical for 2011.The new terminal, (€150m) for the first quarter. building. “We are doing more than 7,000 of whom are lucky to land at Changi Airport. It takes on average less than 30 ahead, Lee says “we see waterfalls and floating says Chew Tiong Heng, As smart as it is, Chew’s smarter buying but haven’t flight attendants minutes to exit the airport and swish along the rainforest-lined potential for traffic growth in orchid gardens covered by director at the Singapore carrier has had its wings cut back drastically. Our Founded: 1972 highway to the city centre. — ll Malaysia, Indonesia, the a timbered ceiling, when it Tourism Board, “will enable clipped – the slump forced market position is such that Owner: Publicly traded, Philippines and Vietnam.” opens in 2011. — ll us to realise our ambition to salary cuts and we are in the top tier biggest single shareholder And at home, the focus be a major cruise hub.” — dw retrenchments, and Chew premium segment of the is Temasek Holdings

014 Singapore Footnote 04: All on board: Publicly listed Singaporean company 015 National Survey Comfort DelGro is one of the largest bus and taxi operators in the world with a fleet of 44,000 vehicles. Luxury resort Casinos Top five Top five Bars, restaurants, Hotels It’s going to take more than Having made its name as a clean and safe casinos alone to boost holiday destination, Singapore has struggled coffee shops (Pictured clockwise) tourism to Singapore. At the to throw off the perception that it is a dull and 1 Best independent hotel: moment the city is lacking a uninspiring place. So in 2005, the government “We wanted to open The business traveller who lush, luxurious urban escape legalised casino gaming in a bid to give something non-commercial doesn’t want to stay at a in the heart of the city.There Singapore “the X-factor – that buzz that you looking so we kept the chain hotel can head to are no shortage of business get in London, Paris or NewYork”, according concept simple,” explains Naumi. Located at Seah travellers who’d tack on a few to Prime Minister Lee Hsien Loong. Jane Hia who launched Street in the Central extra nights if they had their Just four years later, Singapore’s first ever Kith Café with Ahmad Business District, it has own private pool surrounded casino resorts – the Marina Bay Sands and Hidayat (both pictured) 40 rooms, 24-hour valets by an exotic garden moments ResortsWorld at Sentosa – are near completion, in April. Come here for and a rooftop pool. from Orchard Road. It’s a with soft openings expected early next year. homemade scones and naumihotel.com project waiting to be snapped The two integrated resorts will include hotels, a good ice coffee. For a 2 Best spa: Part of by the Park Hyatt brand or restaurants, bars, theme parks and even cup of great espresso, try Chicago-based hotel group Dorchester Group. — TB museums as well as the gaming floors. Black at the Hitachi Tower. Global Hyatt Corporation, “These resorts are expected to create Brunches are nowadays the Grand Hyatt in 20,000 jobs,” says LeeYi Shyan, minister of had at Spruce, opened in Singapore is a favourite state for trade and industry. the Embassy Quarter in among business travellers “Marina Bay Sands will introduce new March.The local Chinese for its city-centre location, retail brands and concepts to Singapore and get their curry and pepper wi-fi, gym and spa. celebrity chef restaurants to put Singapore on crabs at  in Tiong Bahru – singapore. grand.hyatt.com the gastronomic map,” adds Nigel Roberts, no-frills but authentic. For 3 Best dependable chain: president of Marina Bay Sands. — BB homemade noodles, visit Shangri-la’s Singapore Tai Shek Hei House of property has 750 rooms, 55 Bamboo Noodles on the luxury residencies and 127 Top five East Coast and for serviced apartments and is Neighbourhoods Japanese food, family-run a favourite among the Tourism Restaurant Chako on the diplomatic community. 1 Little India (below): West Coast is good. shangri-la.com Chaotic and noisy, Little Cocktails are best at 4 Best boutique hotel: “I India’s energy never flags. French rooftop bar and looked at Chinatown and The main Serangoon Road restaurant Orgo at the decided to go with it on a cuts through a hotchpotch Esplanade as well as Klee whim really. And it took off of lanes that hide shops, Bar, housed in a renovated from there,” says Loh Lik Overview markets and spice stalls. colonial bungalow on Peng who opened The New 2 Katong (right, top and Portsdown Road. Locals Majestic, which has Ten years ago seven million people came to stay in Singapore. middle): Katong’s eagerly await Tanjong Beach 30 rooms designed by local In 2008 it was more than 10 million.The Singapore Tourism colonial houses point to its Club on Sentosa island, emerging artists together Board wants to see the numbers on the chart going much heyday as a breezy coastal which will replace pop-up with outdoor bathtubs. higher but until now they faced a small problem. Many people retreat for the well-heeled. bar The Shack (see top) newmajestichotel.com saw Singapore as a stopover destination and one where, to be For gourmets, East Coast next year. — ll/dw 5 Best escape: Located honest, you might have ended up feeling ready to move on and Joo Chiat Roads turn a short drive from the city after a few days.While this may have been unfair, it seems that out Peranakan and centre, Capella Singapore the Singaporeans have taken big steps over the past few years Eurasian food. What we’d export Hotel hub is a calm retreat set in 30 to add more life and excitement to the Singapore that visitors 3 Dempsey Hill: Set amidst acres of woodland.The see.They’ve now got the world’s biggest ferris wheel and are tropical jungle, the former Though Singapore is replete For hotel management, main building was built in building new beach resorts and casinos. “It’s not just the image army barracks at Dempsey with world-class restaurants Singapore is a pre-packaged the 1880s and it has 111 of Singapore that has undergone a makeover, but Singapore Hill has been converted serving up everything from dream.Year-round sunshine rooms and 38 garden villas. itself has physically transformed over the last five years.We into art galleries, gourmet haute French to meaty South punctuated by epic down- capellasingapore.com — ll have embarked on a raft of exciting projects to make Singapore shops, enotecas and fine American churascuria, street pours, an increasing number an even more exciting place to visit,” says Chang Chee Pey, dining restaurants. food still form s the corner- of high-profile tourist draws Singapore Tourism Board’s brand management director. 4 Lim Chu Kang: Tucked stone of society. Cooked fresh (F1 being the jewel in the However, and this is why that reputation for being dull is away in the island’s to order, the cuisine is a spread crown) and an airport with a slightly unfair, Singapore visitors shouldn’t just concentrate on north-west corner is of Malay, Indian, Chinese, capacity to handle 70 million the headline attractions.What makes a stay here worthwhile is a collective of farms Peranakan and Eurasian. people all help explain why when you go beyond the bombastic to visiting Little India, specialising in everything The best is found in any of hotel grou ps Amanresorts, farmers in the country’s northwest or when you have a chicken from goats milk, aero- the 120-plus centres around Starwood and Banyan Tree rice lunch with the locals at a hawker centre in Chinatown. ponically grown vegetables the island in Tanjong Pagar, have chosen Singapore for Singaporean society also makes this an attractive to ornamental koi. Maxwell Road and Tiong their headquarters.While destination for travellers – you are likely to be ab le to travel 5 Changi Village: Bahru. More comfortable, Orchard Road and Marina around the country and go home still in possession of your Singapore’s most eastern but slightly more expensive Bay are dominated by the camera and wallet. It’s a country that lets you have the Asian tip is known for its Changi versions can be enjoyed Four Seasons, Ritz-Carlton experience while feeling safe.Though there’s still room to prisoner of war camp but in mall food courts. We’d and Mandarin Oriental, encourage more small-scale non chain cafés, bars and these days, locals come export Serangoon Gardens’ the market for independent hotels. — ll here for coastal walks and Chomp Chomp with over 80 boutique hotels is heating postcard sunsets a t Changi stalls, each specialising in up in the city’s Keong Saik Point Kelong Walk. — dw a single dish. — dw Road and Tiong Bahru. — dw

016 Singapore Footnote 05: You’re welcome: Indonesia, India, Australia, Malaysia and 017 National Survey China are Singapore’s top five tourism-visitor markets. Five Singapore Marina Barrage tech initiatives With no sizeable rivers and a 1 Creative Technology: land area too small to collect Started by current chief enough rain water, Singapore executive Sim Wong Hoo has been forced to find as a computer repair shop radical solutions. A 7,000km in 1981, Creative has network of drains and 15 become Singapore’s most reservoirs prevent flooding successful tech company, while also collecting water. selling more than S$1bn The latest is the Marina worth (€488m) of products Reservoir created by the last year, from MP3 players Marina Barrage (pictured). to the new Vado pocket HD By 2011, two-thirds of video camera. Singapore’s surface area creative.com will be used for water 2 Hyflux: The biggest name catchment. PUb, the national Biopolis in Singapore’s flourishing water agency, turns used water industry, Hyflux is a water into clean water using Biopolis science park aims to foster a vibrant spirit of creativity, world leader in desalination a triple treatment process with its tree-lined square, science-inspired artwork and and waste-water treatment. which is mostly used by buzzing cafés. More than 2,000 scientists and technicians from Focused on the rapidly industries requiring around the world have been drawn to the S$500m (€240m) growing markets of Asia high-purity water. — bb biological research facility to work for pharmaceutical giants, and the Middle East, the biotechnology companies and research institutes. — bb company is building the world’s biggest desalination plant in Algeria. 3 ST Engineering: Set up Solar energy Wind power in the 1960s to reduce the Technology Singapore Army’s reliance With an average of 2,034 When it comes to clean Alternative on imported small arms hours of sunshine a year, energy, wind power reigns and ammunition, ST Singapore is an ideal supreme. In 2007, VestasWind Engineering is now candidate to become the Systems – a Danish company energy spearheading the move region’s leader in solar that supplies wind power toward advanced warfare, energy.The business itself solutions – set up a regional developing unmanned is a lucrative one. Norwegian R&D facility in Singapore.The Overview airborne drones and the company Renewable Energy S$500m (€240m) investment Overview futuristi c Spider armoured Corporation is investing an is part of the company’s With a highly educated population and very little free land for car, which can be astonishing S$3bn (€1.46bn) ambitious 10-year plan For a tiny country with no natural resources of scale to speak industrial development, the technology industry has long been remotely controlled. in a manufacturing plant in to research and boost the of, altern ative energy sources have long been the holy grail at the heart of Singapore’s economic growth strategy.There are 4 iNo phone: Given how Tuas to produce solar commercial benefits of of Singapore’s growth strategy. Mah Bow Tan, minister for now 130,000 people working in Singapore’s IT industry, of obsessed with gadgets energy components for the wind power. — DW National Development, says, “Sustainable development must whom more than 80 per cent have a tertiary education. most Singaporeans are, international market. Annual remain a national priority, in good times and bad, given our The government has also ensured that tech companies it’s a surprise to learn that turnover is also expected to resource constraints, the demands of our growing city and are provided with an ideal environment to develop new the hottest new mobile be around S$3bn.The plant the global challenge of climate change.” products, thanks to an ever-evolving IT infrastructure and a phone in town is decidedly will support Singapore’s The problem is two-pronged: the sustainable supply robust intellectual property regime. Singapore is home to 80 of low tech. Foresight programme of renewable and use of energy. Both are keystones to the government’s the world’s top 100 software and IT services companies, many Technologies’ easy-to-use energy while emphasising efforts at boosting sustainable deve lopment.The Economic of which have located their Asia-Pacific headquarters in the S$88 (€43) iNo, pitched at R&D. — DW Development Board heads the Clean Energy Programme Office city. In 2007, Singapore’s IT industry generated revenues of older people, incorporates to implement, coordinate research and test-bed programmes in S$51.7bn (€25.2bn), of which 55 per cent came from hardware buttons that are three times clean energy; while funds are being pumped into programmes production, 17 per cent from software and 12 per cent from IT average mobile size. that promote solar and wind energy as well as carbon-friendly services. But, although Singapore was already making one third 5 Horizon Fuel Cell technologies and designs. of the world’s hard-disk drives by the early 2000s, the Technologies: Many The results of these green policies have been government’s Infocomm Development Authority has been eager scientists believe that fuel Electric cars encouraging. According to Philip Ong, director of Strategic to ensure that Singaporean companies continue to innovate cells, which use hydrogen Policy for the Ministry of the Environment & Water Resources, and develop cutting-edge, higher-value products. to produce clean electric With such a compact and densely populated urban landscape, Singapore ’s energy intensity improved by 15 per cent between The construction of state-of-the-art research and energy, will be vital in the it’s understandable why traffic pollution is an ongoing worry. 1990 and 2005. Future targets are ambitious: it’s hoped energy development complexes such as Fusionopolis, Biopolis (pictured battle against climate A multi-agency taskforce headed by the Energy Market consumption per dollar GDP will decrease by 20 per cent from above) and Mediapolis is helping to accelerate this process by change. Horizon is at the Authority and the Land Transport Authority is hard at work 2005 levels by 2020, and 35 per cent by 2030.To achieve this a offering a cost-effective and hassle-free environment that is forefront of the move to test-bedding electric vehicles and developing charging stations. pragmatic, multi-pronged approach is used. For example, designed to stimulate creativity and innovation. “With our develop low-cost fuel cells As part of the S$20m (€10m) project, Renault-Nissan has suppliers and retailers are encouraged to promote sales of secure and reliable infrastructure, Singapore is well positioned that are small enough to be signed up to supply EVs to the local market.The first batch of energy-efficient appliances while air-conditioners, refrigerators as a centre for new technologies,” says Patrick Chan from IDC, of practical use, making energy-efficient cars is due to hit the roads in 2010.Yam Ah and cars display energy labels and fuel consumption a global IT market research group. “Singapore is an emerging lightweight cells for use in Mee, the LTA’s chief executive adds that “electric vehicles are a inform ation. A Design for Efficiency Scheme provides global centre for clean tech, such as fuel cells, water treatment unmanned aircraft and for new urban transport solut ion that offers great potential for the companies with funding and incentives to design energy and the next generation of solar energy,” he adds. “Singapore the first practical hydrogen- development of industry, business, standards and R&D.” — DW efficient industrial facilities, buy energy efficient equipment, will also be huge in the online and mobile gaming space.” — bb powered car. — bb and to conduct energy audits to identify areas where energy use could be improved. — DW

018 Singapore Footnote 06: Surfs up: Since 2006, people can surf for free at Footnote 07: Energy rush: Singapore’s alternative energy sector is 019 National Survey 7,500 hotspots using wireless@sg. Things will get even better in 2012 when expected to contribute S$1.7bn to the country’s GDP and create 7,000 the new high-speed (1GB per second) all-fibre network is installed. jobs by 2015. National gallery Top five Top five Bookshop Record shop Galleries Artists On the steps of Singapore’s Judging from the success of Karen Wai and Kenny Leck’s The speciality at Straits City Hall the Japanese 1 Art Forum: Born in 1 Milenko Prvacki: Books Actually shop launched nearly four years ago, their Records is straight-edged surrendered to the British in Shanghai and now living in Prvacki came to Singapore new outlet Polymath & Crust, open since June, will command culture (or sXe in specialist 1945 and, 20 years later, Singapore, Marjorie Chu is fromYugoslavia in 1992 an equally loyal customer following. Both outlets are decidedly parlance), a very niche Prime Minister Lee Kuan the founder of Art Forum. with a small suitcase and non-commercial; obscure, local and classic fiction titles at subgenre of aggressive Yew, declared Singapore’s She likes to champion two years later he exhibited Books Actually, non-fiction, including philosophy and natural hardcore and punk music. independence. In 2013, the young talent. at Lasalle, Singapore’s history, at Polymath & Crust.The couple (pictured below) are An audiophile’s Aladdin’s building will make history artforum.com.sg top art scho ol. Now he’s tapping into a new reading and publishing culture emerging in cave, the store stocks obscure again when it reopens as the 2 ValentineWillie Fine Art: Lasalle’s dean of fine arts. Singapore. Leck says “closet readers and writers” are coming titles in various formats from city-state’s first National Art ValentineWillie opened his Prvacki’s work (below) out in force now that publis hing is getting easier and a new around the world,T-shirts Gallery, also occupying the Singapore space in April can be found in private generation of readers are demanding more locally crafted and books. Founder Ridhwan adjacent old Supreme Court. 2008 and staged 11 shows collections worldwide. writing. “I think there is a hunger among kids between 15 and Ghany (pictured right), a The gallery is designed to be in nine months. He went 2 Ian Woo: Woo was born 18 who are asking for more Singapore-written works because 34-year-old vegan, stages a hub for Southeast Asian art into the gallery business in Singapore in 1967 and those will resonate more with them,” Leck explains. ad-h0c shows of indie acts, and it will include a children’s after retiring from law and studied art in Singapore, Both believe they have a responsibility to support the film screenings and art shows gallery and rooftop plaza. now curates exhibitions the UK and Australia. He’s writing and arts community in Singapore and try to do so by on rooftops, in car park It’ll be about the same size across the region. something of a rarity in giving space at the shops to art exhibitions and book readings basements, and even by as Paris’s Musée d’Orsay vwfa.net Singapore having stuck as well as bringing out local titles through their small publishing road-sides. — dw and it’s hoped it will make 3 Fortune Cookie Projects: with painting when most business Math Paper Press. “Other publishers do publish poetry Straits Records, >== North Singapore a premier cultural Conceived as a bridge artists of his generation and essays but I think there is more out there that deserves a Bridge Road, Singapore, destination. Kwok Kian Chow between East and West, prefer multimedia. voice.We hope to provide a platform for them,”Wai says. — ll myspace.com/straitsrecords (pictured right) is the new Fo rtune Cookie aims to 3 Heman Chong: Born in director. — ke bring major international Malaysia, Chong moved artists to Asia and to Singapore as a child and introduce Asia’s artists studied in London. A to the West. curator and artist, Chong fortunecookieprojects.com now divides his time Arts 4 Taksu: Taksu’s Suherwan between Sing apore and Media Abu opened his Singapore Berlin. He has exhibited in gallery in suburban Asia, Europe and the US. Holland Village in 2005. 4 Ming Wong: This The gallery represents both Singaporean video artist international and regional won a Special Mention at artists and runs a residency this year’s Venice Biennale Overview programme at its sister – the first for any Overview gallery in Kuala Lumpur. Singaporean artist. His On the fringe of one of the world’s busiest container ports is taksu.com work focuses on history, The words Singapore and media have not always sat a second-floor nondescript factory reached only by a clunky 5 Tyler Print Institute: memory and identity and comfortably in print. High profile run-ins with major freight lift. Inside people are gathered in a hangar-like white Part gallery, part museum, he lives and works in both international news brands have been PR challenges for brand space to see the latest works from NewYork-based artist and the Institute (below) Berlin and Singapore. Singapore but slowly the country is wisening up in most areas. filmmaker Julian Schnabel. It’s an indication of how far opened in 2002 to build 5 Henri Chen Kezhan: The media landscape is dominated by media corporations Singapore has come in the past decade. “I used to come here in on the legacy of American Kezhan’s abstract such as state-controlled MediaCorp and private firms, including the 1990s and I’d get out as fast as I could.There was nothing printmaker Ken Tyler. ink and wash paintings local Singapore Press Holdings and Australia’s magazine going on,” says Howard Rutkowski, a partner in Fort une A vibrant residency have helped invigorate publisher ACP, but the city-state’s media players believe Cookie, which put on the show. “Now there’s a lot more programme (including traditional Chinese brush grassroots change is taking place. DanielYun, who launched happening here. It’s becoming more of an international city.” New Delhi’s Thukral painting. Inspired by film production studio as part of Media Part of that is due to the government, which is pumping and Tagra) and varied nature and music, Kezhan Corp’s portfolio in 1998, says Singapore’s film industry is now millions of dollars into the arts to revitalise the city’s exhibitions have put it has established an finding its feet: “We’re not in the driving seat yet but we’re at international image. It’s investing heavily in education, from at the forefront of the intern ational reputation least in the car.You must dare to dream of the ultimate – the primary schools to degree level, and museums are being Singapore art scene. — ke for his work. — ke Palme D’Or or an Oscar.The only thing that doesn’t make it expanded. “There is a growing recognition that arts and daydreaming is that you keep working at it”, he says. culture play an important role in promoting a sense of identity The Singapore government is all for big dreams.The an d belonging among Singaporeans,” says Kwok Kian Chow, media sector will receive an S$230m cash injection over the director of the new National Art Gallery. “People are next five years through the government-supported Singapore increasingly looking for a higher quality of life, and many Media Fusion plan in addition to the S$500m already aspire to live and work in a city that has a rich array of arts earmarked for the development of the interactive media sector. and cultural offerings.”Auction houses have set up shop on the Top game developers such as Japanese Koei and Italy’s island and as the art market at home has expanded, Singapore’s Rainbow have already set up shop and 15 international artists have become better known internationally.The country broadcasters, including Discovery and HBO Asia, all have started participating in the Venice Biennale in 2001 and this regional HQs here. year video installation artist MingWong won a Special Mention. “It’s a fantastic place to have a base and reach out to Such recognition has, in turn, helped fuel interest at home. international markets,” says Ken Lim, founder of independent A visit to an art gallery or museum, rather than the mall, is music label Hype Records and the man entrusted with proving popular. “It’s a joy to see families coming on the composing Singapore’s new national anthem in 2005. “Right weekends and bringing the kids,” says Dionne Ng, manager of now we’re going through a discovery process.We’re trying to ValentineWillie Fine Art. “It shows that art is no longer this find out about different cultures and the skills that we have. strange thing to be kept at arm’s length.” — ke It’s a unique time to do that,” he adds. — ll

020 Singapore Footnote 08: Clear vision: Singapore was the first Southeast Asian 021 National Survey country to launch commercial high-definition television in 2007. Publisher Newsagent Top 10 5 James Leong and Actors, directors, Lynn Lee: From For a small but dedicated Sam Thambi and his family Timor-Leste to Nepal and band of book lovers there’s (including his wife pictured producers Bangladesh, James Leong only one must-see destination here) run Singapore’s and Lynn Lee (pictured left, in Singapore – a haven for the best-stocked newsagent, 1 Originasian Pictures, middle) brought a intellectually curious in one Thambi Magazine Store. Sinema Academy of sympathetic eye to the of Orchard Road’s quieter Thambi proudly carries Motion Pictures and harsh realities of 21st- shopping malls. Set up by on his grandfather’s Sinema: As director and century life.They won a architect William Lim and newspaper-selling tradition executive producer of Sundance grant for their three friends in 1976, Select launched in the 1940s; Originasian Pictures, first film, Passable, and their Books focuses its retail and driving to Malaysia on his Nicholas Chee (pictured top work has been shown on publishing business on Asia, motorcycle to hunt down the left) directed the cult hit the film festival circuit. whether that’s a classic novel, best international magazines Becoming Royston in 2006. 6 Tan Pin Pin: In 2006’s an exploration of the Asian and newspapers – he used to He is now working on Singapore Gaga,Tan brings home or a magical story for sell them right off his bike to Basket Ballet about two the island to life through children.The business was the British soldiers stationed school gangs overcoming the eyes of its people. bought out by husband and at Singapore’s Holland their differences by The film gets to the heart wife Seow Hwye Min and Village. Still in the villaget bu forming a b asketball team of what it means to be Lee Wen Fen five years ago. under a proper roof since the and taking ballet classes. Singaporean. “There’s a There are plans for expansion 1970s,Thambi Magazine Chee also runs Singapore’s hunger for a representation but they haven’t tinkered Store is no less popular today, first independent of the Singapore they see much with the formula that’s catering to the expatriate HD-cinema-cum-film- and they know, for some- created such a loyal following. community and locals alike. making studio Sinema and thing real,” says Tan. “We have stuck to what we — ll the Sinema Academy of 7 Martyn See: “My purpose believe in.We are very Motion Pictures – a is to get people interested in specialised.Very niche,” says Books not-for-profit outfit that political issues and to relax Hwye Min. “In five years’ supports the local film the climate of fear,” says time we still want that 1 Singapore’s first gay novel by Johann S Lee industry. See who made a film on reputation.” — ke was followed by his 2007 and 2008 bestsellers. 2 Raintree Pictures: Said Zahari, a long-serving :? Tanglin Road 2 Singapore’s answer to Haruki Murakami, (2002), about Singaporean ex-political Tanglin Shopping Centre Simon Tay explores the difficulties of Singapore’s education prisoner, which was returning home after time spent abroad. system, boosted the film banned. See is now looking Titles by Select Books: 3 Singapore’s first confessional poet, Cyril industry abroad. “Before into the 1987 detention of “The Tropical Asian House” Wong pulls no punches in his 2007 book. I Not Stupid, a foreigner 40 social workers accused by Robert Powell 4 Toh Hsien Min creates a new national would have no reference of being Marxists. narrative in this collection of poems. for Singapore film,” says 8 Royston Tan: Independent “Asian Architects” by Tan 5 Read Simply This – Simply His for letters DanielYun, managing filmmaker Royston Tan’s Kok Meng and poems by civil servant Sng Boh Khim. director and founder of first full-length feature, :<: Raintree Pictures.The The Movie, is a fly-on-the- “The Girl from the Coast” CDs rights for Raintree horror wall account exposing by Pramoedya Ananta Toer flick The Eye were bought teenage gangs in Singapore. 6 MyWrites’ 2009 debut album is a catchy by Hollywood last year. It won widespread acclaim, “Architecture, Art, Identity in mix of bossa lounge and guitar-driven riffs. 3 YeoYannYann: Originally even as the authorities tried Singapore: Is There Life After 7 In July The Observatory released a jazzy from Malaysia, 32-year-old to censor it. Tabula Rasa” byWilliam Lim folk-rock and electric melody compilation. actressYeoYannYann 9 Kelvin Tong: A film “Dignity Overdue” 8 The Zozi, a quartet of young Singaporean (pictured below left) is journalist for the local by John Gee Malays, mixes humour and indie rock. considered an alternative Straits Times newspaper, 9 The Analog Girl’s electro punk xylophone voice in Singapore’s acting Tong moved behind the beats are perfectly Portishead-esque. world. Singapore Dreaming, camera in 1999. He made 10Elec trico’s fun but serious rock tunes are was the film that first The Maid in 2005, a horror part of the local music scene. — dw/ll brought her to the public film that broke all box eye in 2006. She’s currently office records for the genre setting up a new theatre in Singapore. Having set Channel NewsAsia company. up his own production 4 Pamelyn Chee: From her company Boku,Tong is Alongside the BBC and CNN TV listings there’s Channel NewsAsia, a young debut as a little duck in a making his first Hong pan-Asian channel owned by MediaCorp broadcasting from HQ in Singapore. Chinese dance troupe at Kong film, a grim horror Asia comes first on the news agenda, catering to a growing number of viewers. nine years old to her lead in thriller, Rule #:. “If you want news on anything about Asia, there’s only one destination and WayneWang’s Princess of 10Eric Khoo: Khoo explores that’s Channel NewsAsia,” says Woon Tai Ho, its founder.While the BBC and Nebraska (2007) where she the complexities of urban Bloomberg might take issue with this statement, Channel NewsAsia does have plays an alcoholic living life in his films. :; Storeys, an opportunity to carve out a unique niche both regionally and globally. — ll rough, Pamelyn Chee has set in Singaporean housing Channel NewsAsia facts charted a course to blocks, was the first Singa- Bureaux: 11 stardom. She recently pore film to be invited to Journalists: 150 returned from eight years Cannes, and his most Reach: 24 million viewers in over 20 countries in the US and is now in recent film, My Magic, has Correspondents: London, Moscow, Los Angeles, pre-production for Basket been selected for the official NewYork and Washington Ballet (see above). — ll competition. — ke

022 Singapore Footnote 09: Culture club: Singapore has 24 leading 023 National Survey libraries, 45 national and private museums, 27 performing venues and 35 art galleries. Creative agency Radio National icon

Sweet-toothed Singaporeans Except for the BBC World Kumarason Chinnadural, now have a second Chocolate Service, MediaCorp’s radio aka Kumar, who launched his Research Facility outlet where stations dominate Singapore’s stand-up comedy drag queen they can satisfy their cravings. radio waves.With a rising career in Singapore in the Opened in June at Wheelock number of media graduates 1990s, has endeared himself Place, 501 Orchard Road, it from Singapore’s universities to Singaporeans with his offers 100 different chocolate and upcoming music talent rowdy, no-holds barred jokes flavours, including Sichuan that can be heard everywhere that lampoon the intellectual, Pepper and Lychee Martini. from Velvet to Home social and sexual inadequacies Chris Lee, who heads creative nightclubs, there’s an of Malays, Indians, Caucasians agency Asylum, came up with opportunity here to spice and Chinese alike. the concept and developed up the local radio-output. You made your name at the flavours at a local factory. Unfortunately online radio the Boom Boom Room in Lee’s new projects streaming has become Bugis Street in the 6775s. include a 2,787 sq m Orchard difficult since harsher Where’s your curtain call Road shopping mall due to copyright laws and higher these days? open in November and licensing fees were introduced I did a cooking programme in interior design for Loh Lik in March. Perhaps it’s time to Turkey and Egypt during the Peng’s new boutique hotel open up the radio-sphere summer and I have been in Little India (see page :>). to the new generation of DJs performing regular stand-up “All these new restaurants ready to start broadcasting comedy shows at 3 Monkeys and brands are from clients home-grown tunes to local Café [on Orchard Road]. that are quite young, which and regional markets. — ll You have been Singapore’s gives us the opportunity to premier drag queen for do interesting things and help two decades, outlasting all develop a new cultural scene Video games the other pretenders. that got stuck somewhere,” he What’s your secret? says. Lee also launched The The local appetite for video Being the only drag Design Society with six other games was worth S$87m queen comedian in Asia! agencies in June to promote (€43m) in 2005 and is set It’s about a lot of hard work, the local visual scene. — ll to grow to S$287m by a little charisma and lots 2015. Koei, Ubisoft, EA and of awareness of your 01 02 LucasArts have all set up surroundings. — dw shop in Singapore to benefit 01 The Chocolate Research Facility, from the well-regulated designed by creative agency Asylum intellectual property 02 The window display protection regime and 03 Café at the chocolate shop educated workforce. 04 Chocolate stored in drawers 05 Over 100 flavours of chocolate The Media Development stacked up in the shop Authority has been a key facilitator of the gaming industry, supporting studios such as Tyler Projects and Mikoishi in developing multi-player online games. Mediapolis@one-north, a 190,0 00 sq m media park, will be critical in drawing businesses and talent. — dw

Graphic talent “I think the design industry in Singapore is still in its infancy but do come if you want to be part of a grand masterplan that is slowly unfolding,” says Justin Long who launched graphic design firm Hjgher with art director Jerry Goh in 2006. Long has high hopes for his contemporaries: “I think it will be interesting to see if the young designers, who are daring enough to be great, have it in them to go the distance and constantly reinvent themselves to not just be greater than those in Singapore but greater than everyone else in the world,” he says. New additions to the Hjgher portfolio, which already includes work for clients as varied as Subaru, United Overseas Bank and Kith Café (see page :>), are a second Kith Café and the soon-to-be-launched magazine The Issue. — ll hjgher.com 03 04 05

024 Singapore Footnote 10: Chinese to go: The Singapore Media Development Authority 025 National Survey is working with China Education Television to produce 10 HD documentaries that will reach every household in China by the end of next year. Custom made 1 Q&A Cheongsam Kim Faulkner, CEO, maker Get Singapore Brands Get Singapore Brands is a Elisa Chew has been making non-profit collaboration the traditional Chinese between the retail sector cheongsam dress for more and government to promote than three decades and, while local firms. her clientele reads like a who's who of Singapore, her shop What is Get Singapore’s on Singapore’s East Coast aim? attracts women of all To get people who come to backgrounds. visit here to think beyond It’s possible to buy “let’s look for something a cheongsam oR the rack ethnic”.You can buy more and have it adjusted, but than just a souvenir. custom-made is the best way Have brands changed to go. Choose from Thai or How will you reach this the way they look at Chinese silks, velvet or even goal? provenance? batik. Chew’s team of One of the areas that I’ve The shift is in the sense of seamstresses work their magic worked on is this idea of confidence in who you are with exquisite craftsmanship, provenance. One of the things without apologising for it. whether it’s a unique silk you notice with mergers, is Singapore is a lot more button or a three-tiered that the provenance stays. confident today. — UU mandarin collar. For a uniquely Singaporean touch, orchids can be hand-painted on to the dress. No need to worry Fashion/ that cheongsams only work on the super-skinny and super-tall either. It’s all in the Retail cut. “Everyone can wear a cheongsam,” says Chew. “They make women feel elegant and slim. I wear them Overview a lot myself. I know.” — TS H&W International Orchard Road is the retail commercial centre of Singapore, 5111F Marine Parade Road a Jkm-long, LHH,HHH sq m hub for a nation that loves to shop. 12-36 Laguna Park Even in these recessionary times, the pavements and malls are crowded as shoppers home in on the must-have brands. From Dries Van Noten to Gucci, Marni and Louis Vuitton, it’s all there.“If you look at Orchard Road, we have all the global brands,” says Tjin Lee who helped organise Singapore’s fashion Custom made 2 week this year. “We have world-class shopping.The area we Tailor need to look at is how we nurture and groom our own young designers.” Faced with a small home market, a lack of funding Rossi oRers a contemporary and the distance from the world’s fashion capitals, being a take on the traditional tailor fashion designer in Singapore is no easy task. But as Singapore and a pedigree that comes is changing, so is retail, and so is fashion. “Before, it was always from three generations in the ‘Made in ’, ‘Made in Italy’, anything local they wouldn’t business.The focus is on the touch,” says Tina Tan-Leo, who introduced a generation of silhouette, the fit and the best Singaporeans to Italian designers. “But now people are more Italian fabrics. A basic suit educated and well travelled and they’re proud to be Asian.” will take about three weeks Singaporeans are seeking out independent boutiques and needs two or three in suburban areas and colonial-era buildings. “Consumers want fittings. “It’s old-school something unique and diRerent,” says Tricia Lum, who runs craftsmanship married with the shop Antipodean in Singapore’s Holland Village. In something more fashion Chinatown, stores selling furniture, books and fashion are forward,” says Daniel Lum, replacing the Chinese clans who used to occupy the colonial who set up the business with era shophouses, and are opening new markets to local his cousin Timothy Tham, designers.Tan-Leo is seeking to capitalise on the change. In as an oRshoot of their JHHM, after KH years of bringing in other people’s brands, she grandfather’s more traditional launched her own – alldressedup. It’s now one of Singapore’s tailoring business. — TS most successful fashion exports, selling in nearly NH boutiques 7 Ra8es Boulevard, across Asia, Europe and the US. Naturally, she also has a 12-46 MillenniaWalk flagship store on Orchard Road. — TS

Footnote 11: Best foot forward: According to the latest survey (2007) on Singapore’s retail sector, there are 3,400 footwear and clothing retail outlets in the country. Top five Retailer 2 Toh (pictured in the middle fashion designers Air Division with fellow directorsVincent Chia to his left and KayYong, 1 Wykidd Song: Song was Furniture design firm r ight) knew he was on to one half of Song + Kelly, Air Division also runs what’s something when he founded the first Singapore label to arguably Singapore’s best Air Division with four friends go global in 1995 when furniture shop (also called Air 10 years ago because “there Harrods started stocking Division). Any ideas you may were no companies providing their clothes. Barneys and have had about Singaporean good design”. Selfridges followed.They design as being ornamental A growing number showed in Australia and bling will be blown away by of locals can’t seem to get London, and in 2000 this 55 sq m shop housed at enough of Air Division’s joined the Club21 stable of the foot of Mount Sophia in Scandinavian-inspired design Singapore fashion maven, the country’s south. From pieces. “People are more Christina Ong. Since the bestseller Array Wide exposed to design and have leaving Club21 three years Shelf developed with become more discerning in ago, Song has carved out a London-based VoonWong & their pursuit of better niche as a designer of Benson Saw to Singaporean lifestyles,” says Toh. — ll clothes, jewellery, and even NathanYoung’s Tree Table airdivision.com interiors. He’s planning to (pictured) and Air Division launch his first full fashion designer Jerry Low’s collection post Song + Beam Table, the firm’s ranges Kelly later this year. focus on clean lines, polished 2 Jonathan Seow: wood and sleek curves. Seow started WoodsWoods Managing director Michael in 2000 and four years later was showing in Australia and Paris. He recently Retailer 1 Retailer 3 the mass-market offerings Retailer 4 established Studio Privé, Strangelets Know It Nothing on Orchard Road. Upstairs The Blackmarket an initiative to help young from the intimate shop designers hone Strangelets is the go-to shop Haji Lane, nestled among floor, Melwani designs The Blackmarket is in Jalang their skills. for home decoration. Here the traditional textile and blazers, trousers and shirts Pisang, an area northeast of 3 Jo Soh: London-trained Jo you can get your classic perfume shop-houses in for his Sifr line on a the Singapore River that was Soh named her label after Anglepoise lamp and pieces Singapore’s Arab Quarter, ping-pong table. haunted by Indonesian her dog – a Jack Russell by under-the-radar designers. is being gentrified by young Sifr is for “the guys in the pirates back in the 16th she rescued from the “Part of the reason we started shopkeepers such as Suraj middle who deserve good century and was formerly streets. Hansel, which Strangelets was so that we Melwani (right). Originally design too”, Melwani says. where the country’s drug she describes as “quirky could introduce the work of from Jakarta, Melwani “We’re trying to combine all dens were to be found. with an element of fun”, little-known designers.We studied finance in Boston and the things that people think Launched a year ago by the made its debut in saw them as a necessary fashion design at Parson’s in are important; quality, three founders of the design Australian Fashion Week in complement to the total NewYork before opening his wearability, price and comfort studio The Blackmark, and 2003 and has built a loyal domination of high-end shop, Know It Nothing, in w ith a lasting appeal,” he now run w ith two additional following among women luxury furnishings in the Singapore in May 2007. adds. — ll partners (four of the team are in the Asia Pacific. market,” says Ong Ker-Shing The shop’s stock – knowitnothing.com pictured below left), the shop 4 TeoYing Hui: The who launched the shop with accessible designs by attracts a more sober crowd woman behind the label her husband Joshua Comaroff unconventional international of young Singaporean Demisemiquaver walked (pictured centre and left) and labels such as Denmark’s professionals to the away with the s$20,000 two friends in May 2008 WoodWood and Sweden’s neighbourhood today. AudiYoung Designer (Schirin Taraz-Breinholt is Nakkna – attracts locals and It’s one of the leading Award at this year’s pictured on the right). also customers from the retail outlets that pay homage Singapore fashion week. The collection is going region on the lookout for to the “Made in Singapore” More importantly for down a treat with local pieces harder to find among label, with designers such Teo, the prize included shoppers. “We have the as Fru Fru &Tiger Lily and an internship with design crowd with their big Hooked Clothings on the racks. Vivienne Westwood. glasses and skinny pants, the “We’re inspired by upcoming 5 Tina Tan-Leo and Sven ‘tai tais’ [wealthy housewives] Asian designers that are on a Tan: After three decades in and a range of arts and crafts par with international labels luxury retail,Tina Tan-Leo people – granola-eaters who but that have limited exposure was determined to come are still holding on to the to market themselves. People up with her own line. She notion of craft from the last are much more receptive looked to Sven Tan,winner go-around,” says Ong.With towards local labels now. of the 2004 Mercedes Benz banking and architecture In fact, our customers buy Asia Fash ion Award, as her backgrounds – Ong and more local and regional labels principal designer.Tan-Leo Comaroff run Lekker than international ones. It’s describes the clothes they architecture practice (see page overwhelming to have made create as modern with an 33) at the back of the shop – such a breakthrough,” says Asian silhouette. — ke they have the makings of a founding partner Quincy strong business model. — ll Teofisto. — ll strangelets.sg theblackmarket.sg

028 Singapore Footnote 12: The only way is up: Although retail sales have declined 029 National Survey 10.3 per cent in Singapore compared to 2008, they increased by 0.9 per cent from April to May this year. Q&A Best of the modern Urban thinker Teng Wee, challenges that stem from Lo & Behold Group crafting concepts that bring 1 One Moulmein Rise TengWee co-founded Lo & these spaces to life. Food and (pictured right): This Behold Group in 2005. His beverage projects are a slender condominium, first offering was Loof, a natural extension of this completed in 2003, won rooftop bar in the central passion but I think these WOHA many architectural Odeon Towers.Two more ideals apply equally well to prizes including the venues have opened since – many different spheres. Aga Khan Award. the White Rabbit restaurant Moulmein Rise in Dempsey and OverEasy What’s your design ethos? 2 The Concourse (below): nightclub in the Central We’ve always taken the time Paul Rudolph’s futuristic Business District. His latest to hunt out special locations, monolith is made from project is Tanjong Beach from a rooftop overlooking octagonal layers pierced Club at Sentosa Island. the city to an abandoned with a complicated grid colonial chapel building. pattern of windows. Why did you choose From there, we set about Beach Road to go into the creating concepts with a 3 Camden Medical restaurant business? d istinct personality [and Centre (opposite, top): It was never a conscious bring that out] in the details, Richard Meier’s circular effort to go into the bar and creating an experience that white-panelled tower is restaurant business. I’ve we hope lingers on for our home to some of always had a love of guests after they’ve left. — ll Singapore’s most exclusive interesting spaces and the eye and plastic surgeons. Orchard Boulevard 4 The Colonnade (opposite, middle): Nestled amid expansive Architecture/ green lawns in one of Singapore’s most exclusive neighbourhoods, the Urbanism façade of Paul Rudolph’s 28-storey condominium bears his hallmarks of interlocking pieces. Overview Grange Road 5 The Supreme Court Make no mistake, there are genuine architectural gems to be (opposite, bottom): Lord found in Singapore.The island has gracefully low-slung Foster’s Supreme Court colonial shop-houses, black and white bungalows, a couple of building is capped by a Paul Rudolph classics and intriguing monoliths by IM Pei.That massive flying saucer-like said, there’s always been an element of mass production about dome.The striking glass, Singapore’s built environment, partly because when you have steel and marbled interiors to house 82 per cent of the population in functional and open up into a vast atrium. affordable housing, creativity is usually the first to go. Supreme Court Lane Even private homes and condominiums – especially 6 OCBC Bank (far right): those built in the recent age of starchitects – betray a Built in 1976, this was once cookie-cutter quality. Architectural writer Patrick Bingham-Hall the tallest building in describes the typical modern Singaporean house as “an elegant Southeast Asia. It remains, cantilevered steel shoebox, clad with timber battens, which arguably, one of IM Pei’s contains all the Italian furniture that can be shipped in”. finest projects. The good news is that architects such as Farm, Look Chulia Street, Raffles Place and Formwerkz are shaking things up with quirky, whimsical 7 Seletar Close House: builds. Meanwhile, the vast gardens and open public spaces Through the careful proposed for Marina Bay are a thoughtful mix of unusual mixing of layered space, architectural forms and greenery. “Better architecture appears massive raw concrete to come when Singaporean architects are not really concerned blocks and floor to ceiling with Singapore’s international identity, and when they go local windows, Formwerkz and forget to translate western styles,” Bingham-Hall says. architects have created a Singaporeans are also developing a protective sense of generously proportioned, their past as the recent fight to save the slender Pearlbank yet intimate, house for apartment block from a sale to private developers (and a family. Completed in inevitable demolition) shows. So seriously is the city-state 2009. — dW taking this new world view that it’s just inaugurated the Lee Seletar Close KuanYewWorld City Prize, a biennial international award that recognises individuals and organisations that have made outstanding contributions to “the creation of vibrant, liveable and sustainable urban communities around the world”. — dW

030 Singapore Footnote 13: Mix masters: The government maintains a strict racial 031 National Survey ratio between Malays, Chinese and Indians in its housing blocks to maintain harmonious social cohesion and safeguard racial integration. Urban project Rising stars

About fifty per cent of (Pictured in order of appearance) Singapore is covered with 1 Zarch Collaboratives vegetation and a further 10 Zarch is equally at home per cent is specially devoted designing experimental to parks and nature reserves. housing and planning art The crown jewel is the new school cafés as it is creating Gardens by the Bay. Billed as sprawling set pieces for the Singapore’s “premier urban National Day Parade. outdoor recreation space”, zarch.com.sg 1.01 sq km of prime 2 Ministry of Design waterfront land by Marina After stints interning with Bay will be transformed into Rem Koolhaas and Daniel three sprawling gardens.The Libes kind, Colin Seah first phase sees the 2011 opened his own firm opening of Gardens at specialising in retrofits of Marina South.The largest heritage buildings, fashion of the three gardens, it will boutiques and lush resorts. include the Conservatory modonline.com Complex of climate-controlled 3 Distillery Studio biomes and SuperTrees; a In less than two years, grove of vertical gardens interior architects Matthew soaring up 16 storeys. — dW Shang and Paul Semple have assembled a portfolio showing off luxury residences in Singapore, The firms The developers a sleek bookstore in Jakarta and swanky fashion stores Singapore’s construction site When it comes to high-rise in Melbourne. hoardings show that the plum condominiums, Singaporeans distillerystudio.net commissions are still awarded have an enduring love affair 4 Lekker Design to mega-firms such as DP with marble, steel and glass Lekker designs imaginative Architects and RSP Architects. and the handful of bold-faced buildings (such as Stain Boutique firms, though, are developers such as Far East, House), interi ors and forging a new East-meets- CDL, Citystate and SC Global MRT development landscaping. Its principals, West vernacular by are happy to continue Ong Ker-Shing and Joshua employing experienced delivering these shiny Bright, shiny, air-conditioned, spotlessly clean and filled with Comaroff, are now working expatriate and young overseas monoliths. But the more public art by local artists, the Mass Rapid Transit train system on the Museum of trained local architects to human-scaled 19th-century (commonly known as the MRT) is the centrepiece of Contemporary Horological work on shiny condominiums shop -houses in Chinatown’s Singapore’s public transportation system.With most single, Art. lekkerdesign.com (SCDA), educational and Ann Siang Hill provide a one-way trips costing less than S$1.50 (€0.73), the MRT is the 5 TakenouchiWebb religious facilities (Forum welcome contrast.The Urban transport of choice. It moves 1.8 million passengers each day, Naoko Takenouchi, an Architects), high-end regional Redevelopment Authority has though the number is set to rise as a series of new lines open. alumnus of Shigeru Ban, resorts (Kerry Hill Architects), worked on restoring the area, Five stations on the S$6.7bn (€3.2bn) Circle Line began and architect husband and hotels and restaurants creating what Lim Eng Hwee, running in April, but the rest – including Stadium (pictured Marc Webb’s projects (Bedmar & Shi). Last year’s URA’s chief planner, calls above) in , and Bras Basah both by WOHA architects – range from the Kaishidhoo Aga Khan winner WOHA “flexible and innovative won’t be fully operational until 2010. In addition, the S$12bn resort in the Maldives to has several high- profile planning solutions that balance (€5.8bn) Downtown Line will open in 2018. — dW the elegant interiors of projects in the works heritage conservation and the Singapore’s The White including two Mass Rapid needs of contemporary Rabbit restaurant. — dW Transit train stations. — dW society”. — dW takenouchiwebb.com

Public housing for all An ever-expanding nation Urban innovator

When Singapore gained independence in 1965, most of the A lack of land has seen Singapore reclaim sizeable chunks back Having made his fortune by the age of 40, Jack Sim decided to population lived in unsanitary and overcrowded villages and from the sea for residential, commercial and recreational use. dedicate his life to humanit arian causes and set off on a bizarre tenements.The then prime minister Lee KuanYew ordered mass The numbers are telling. In 1959, Singapore’s land size was but single-minded mission to make Singapore’s loos the envy rehousing and today 82 per cent of Singaporeans live in a around 581 sq km. By 1989, thanks to determined land of the world. After achieving remarkable results through his Housing & Development Board (HdB) flat. Frven Lim, senior reclamation efforts, it had grown to 626 sq km.Today, the Restroom Association of Singapore, the 52-year-old vice-president of town-planners Surbana International number is around 700 sq km. businessman cast his net wider, founding the WorldToilet Consultants, says HdB’s emphasis on a balance between Indeed, most of the current major projects, such as Organisation to help bring proper sanitation to the 2.6 billion affordability, housing policies and design quality “has created the casino resorts on Sentosa and Marina Bay, are being built people without access to toilets.“I grew up in a village here and spaces for communities and provided high-quality living on reclaimed land, as are the new cargo terminals at Pasir have seen Third-World Singapore, so I know that when toilets environments for the general population”. It’s an ethos best seen Panjang and the on-going expansion of Jurong Island. — dW get better, life g ets better,” he explains. “If poor countries can in developments such as Tao Payoh New Town (above) and the get sanitation right, they can resolve health issues, which will UNWorld Habitat Award winning Tampines New Town. — dW drive economic growth in the long term.” — BB

032 Singapore Footnote 14: Single minded: Unmarried people under 35 aren’t 033 National Survey allowed to buy state-subsidised public flats because the government doesn’t like younger singles leaving home. Where Next? The New  Style Guide

Next in the  special edition series: Style Guide  From eyewear to luggage, the artisans, companies and regions to watch. In our October issue, out  September

034 Singapore National Survey