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Monocle Travel Guide " $ "! Torri e Merli hotel Anna Sourbati’s Paxos picks: New openings: Global Paxos, Greece Favourite café: Ben’s Monodendri Beach Caravan London : A great place to linger over lunch or impeccable coffees According to general Bar is right on the beach and ideal for a and cakes. 11-13 Exmouth Market, EC1, + 44 020 7833 8115 manager Anna Sourbati moonlit drink. Toyo Paris : Toyomitsu Nakayama serves Japanese-French fusion in his (and ancient mythology), Favourite restaurant: Vassilis in Loggos new Montparnasse restaurant, including whelk bouillon with shimeji and the 19 sq km sliver of land village. The food is excellent with modern matcha tiramisu. 17 rue Jules Chaplain, 75006, + 33 01 43 54 28 03 that is Paxos was chipped takes on traditional dishes. off the mainland during an Favourite bar: Taxidi (meaning travel) in amorous tussle between Loggos village is by the waterfront and Tombo two gods. No wonder the serves smoothies, fruit cocktails and London island is seen as a place for jazz music. Opened in February by Colin and Manami romance. Entrepreneur Favourite spot: Erimitis Sunset View Bar, Sloley, the founders of London’s Tokio Anastassios Zenembissis on the west coast of Paxos, offers views clothing boutique, Tombo is a homely lovingly restored this early over the sea and the white rock of Erimitis. Japanese restaurant and deli in South 17th-century manor house Best-kept local secret: The tiny, pebbled Kensington. Offering food “that Japanese and opened the Torri e Merli coves of Paxos are off the tourist trail and people would take home from the amazing hotel. “What we do here is have some of the finest clear blue seas for delis that fill the basements of Japanese authentically Paxos, but swimming and snorkelling. department stores”, the Tombo experience with a twist and a little Local speciality dish: Bianco fish is an is thankfully not quite as dizzying as Isetan’s more refinement,” says exquisite local dish made with garlic cloves, food hall at 18.00. With a large communal Sourbati. lemon, white pepper and herbs. — dining table and art by Natsko Seki on the torriemerli.com walls, the restaurant is a welcome respite from the busy streets. — 29 Thurloe Place, SW7, + 44 207 589 0018, tombodeliandcafe.com Monocle Menu highlights: travel guide Maki sushi rolls, donburi and bento boxes Global that can be filled at the deli counter, cakes made using green tea and matcha latte. ——— Preface Our favourites from around the world this month include a sushi spot in London, a lovers’ retreat in Greece and a Taipei hotel full of Warhol and Dalí G originals. We also profile N O Norwegian airline Widerøe. L A C I S S Bills E Yokohama J : R E H Down in Yokohama, customers queue P A every day for the food of Australian R G O chef Bill Granger, whose most recent T O H restaurant in Japan (his second) opened P this March in a refurbished pre-First World War warehouse on the docks. The new branch of Bills continues the theme set by Cafe Boy its enormously popular predecessor beside Zürich the beach near Kamakura: casual and The original restaurateurs behind Zürich’s elegant, with a modern-Australian tinged popular Zentraleck have transformed a menu of wholesome dishes covering 1930s coffee house in the Sihlfeld quarter F breakfast through to dinner. Service that’s F into the city’s latest culinary gem. With its P M professional and relaxed feels straight out A neighbourhood feel, Cafe Boy serves up K N of Sydney, and as we daydream across E seasonal local and national favourites from L U the bay we wonder, when Granger finally K deer sausages and gitzi (baby goat) to the A hits Tokyo, which waterside spot will he J catch of the day from Lake Constance. “My T A choose? — K cooking style is purist and draws from local : Bills, Yokohama, Red Brick Warehouse R producers who I know personally and trust E Building 2, 1-1-2 Shinko, Naka-ku, + 045 H to deliver the best quality available,” says P A 650 1266 bills-jp.net R co-founder Jann Hoffmann. “I take a less- G O T is-more approach to create a modern Swiss O A H M P Menu highlights: A cuisine.” — Y A K Kochstrasse 2, 8004, + 41 44 240 40 24 Cream-loaded scrambled eggs and the A T cafeboy.ch berry-butter-heavy “berry berry pancakes” O Z O sate more reckless urges, while the sweet K Menu highlights: : and peppery fettuccine with pork and fennel R E Hacktätschli vom Bachsaibling – brook trout seeds is a comfort-food classic. H P A patties on a salad of blue potatoes with R G O herb vinaigrette, accompanied by Pinot Gris T O H 2008, Urs Pircher, from nearby Eglisau. P — !!# !!# — " $ "! Hebenstreit Hotel Éclat " $ "! Global Vienna Taipei Flights of fancy Blink, and you might miss this restaurant. Taipei’s Da-An district has a new gallery Hebenstreit has no sign outside and is not in the shape of Hotel Éclat. Crammed even visible from ground level. One half- with owner George Wong’s art collection storey up, however, is a comfortable, cosy – – which includes original Salvador Dalí dare we say romantic – eatery that attracts sculptures and Andy Warhols – high locals of all ages with an expert mix of tea in the Éclat Lounge has become a Austrian and international (leaning toward destination for those wanting to peruse Italian) cuisine. The fare is prepared, and art over a cup of assam. No detail has sometimes served, by the affable chef Peter been overlooked and the hotel’s 60 Dörre, who keeps his 17 tables happy with rooms have Mont Blanc pens if you a rotating, seasonal and often local menu. need to jot something down, while the The wine list features excellent Austrian complimentary mini-bar is stocked with whites and a small bar area offers a great Riedel glasses. Continuing on the art R E N corner for intimate conversations. — theme, watch out for Wong’s new hotel in G L I Rockhgasse 1, 1010 Vienna, Nanjing’s Parkview Green development, S A + 43 1 533 76 87 set to open at the end of the year. — K U L eclathotels.com/taipei : R Menu highlights: E H Beef tartare or chicken-liver parfait with Footnote: Toto toilets in all guestrooms, P A R cranberries followed by homemade ravioli, plus Toto baths in six of them, make G O T with vanilla parfait for dessert. Japanese visitors feel at home. O H P Green wings Pomme Sucre Oviedo and Madrid, Spain Norway Spanish master baker Julio Blanco hired ——— Catalan architect Francesc Rifé to redesign Preface his Pomme Sucre patisserie chain. His Widerøe is green in both Oviedo bakery was the first to get the new livery and ethos, thanks to look and the Madrid store opened last its successful carbon offset month. “I wanted to represent the three key scheme – just one reason ingredients used at the bakery – flour, eggs why its customers seem to and cocoa – through the materials of white love the carrier so much. opal, yellow resin and smoked mirror,” says Rifé. Glass display cabinets enhance the Norwegian airline Widerøe presentation of the houses specialities. “It’s Flyveselskap is a shining a look that represents my high-end bakery example of an airline philosophy,” Blanco adds. — bucking the industry trends Covadonga 21, Oviedo 33002; Calle of economic losses and signature colour by accident disillusioned passengers by Widerøe facts Barquillo 49, Madrid 28004 Juvet Spa when Viggo Widerøe visited not only showing positive Canada to purchase three Valldall, Norway results – pre-tax profits of Staff: 1,300 and increasing Pomme Sucre hits: de Havilland aircraft. His by another 100 during 2010. The Juvet Hotel’s spa will open this NKr 47.1m (€6m) in 2009 dream of a Norwegian red, 01 “10 grams in a bite” chocolates month, with glass-walled saunas and which signifies an increase 02 Orange and chocolate Italian panettone white and blue livery was Uniforms: Traditional steam rooms offering views of the of 317 per cent on 2008 – shattered when he was told 03 Caramelised millefeuille Gudbrandsjuvet ravine and Valldølla but also an almost cultish suits for the men, shift green was the only colour dresses and fitted river just 10m below. Weary guests customer following, judging available at the time. But Hoto Fudo returning from long hikes can have a by birthday wishes and love jackets for the women Yamanashi, Japan the green wings of Widerøe in Widerøe’s signature welcome soak in the outdoor hot-tub. letters posted on Widerøe’s now have a more significant “Because the windows are so large, it Facebook page. green. The obligatory Yamanashi prefecture in Japan’s central meaning. The airline’s CO2 silk neck scarf echoes Honshu is famous for its hoto noodles. feels like you are participating with the Founded in 1934 by omission offset calculator is surrounding nature,” says architect Viggo Widerøe and four the three green tones Resembling thick udon, the dish was the most successful in that adorn the aircrafts. cooked only at home until 25 years Jan Olav Jensen. — other flying enthusiasts, Scandinavia with 5 per cent juvet.com Widerøe first operated as ago when Noboru Furuya decided to of passengers engaging in Logo: Created by give visitors to the area a chance to a seaplane ambulance, air the option, compared with taxi, “school bus” and aerial Scandinavian Design experience the taste by opening a small a mere 0.1 per cent at the Group, part of McCann.
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