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WHERE the WILD THINGS ARE Great Lake Section 2 Next week: Keep your eyes monocle.com peeled for more travel in the next monocle.com/radio T R AV E L issue of the Summer Weekly, where Edition 1 we’ll visit another Badi and take 08/08—14/08 a 1km holiday in New York. On sale: 15 August BADI / SWITZERLAND 1KM HOLIDAY: JAPAN Don’t go New series Great lake anywhere Whether you’re a wild swimmer who dreams of being at one In the first of our three-part with nature or prefer a more manicured experience courtesy of series, we ask our writers to have man-made pools, Switzerland’s Lido di Lugano – the first in a holiday just one kilometre from our ‘Badi’ series – has you covered. And thanks to its enduring their home. First stop: Tokyo. appeal across generations and regular summer events, this 1920s gem is in no danger of going under. writer Fiona Wilson writer Jessica Bridger photographer Bea De Giacomo There is a particular indulgence about taking a mini- break in one’s own city – Tokyo, in my case – a distant awareness that while lounging in a yukata robe just a few kilometres from home, family obligations are being fulfilled and colleagues are holding the fort. My destination is Kanda in central Tokyo, already lauded in the late 19th century for its Russian Orthodox church and intellectuals. Writer Edward Seidensticker once described Kanda’s secondhand-books district as “among the wonders of the world”. If you can look past the modern buildings, not much has changed. To most, Kanda is known for its bookshops; for others it’s the place to buy musical instruments. To food lovers it’s synonymous with Japanese curry. I favour Bondy, a second-floor spot that serves the juic- iest beef curry and a delicious banana au lait. It runs like clockwork and is perfect for a solo lunch. Then there are the kissaten, smoky old-fashioned coffee shops such as Ladrio – a Hobbit-like nook with a laughably low ceiling – and Sabouru, where Edith Piaf plays and the owners frown on visitors photographing the weathered interior. There are DESTINATION / PORTUGAL interesting-looking buildings that only a free day will uncover: Kanda Yabu Soba, open since 1880, rose from the ashes of a fire six years ago. Kanda Myojin, one of Tokyo’s greatest Shinto shrines, is there too. In short, Kanda is the perfect place for mooching. WHERE THE WILD And when in mooching mode there is only one place to stay: the Hilltop, a unique establishment that opened in 1954 in a 1937 building that formerly hosted the US’s occupying forces. The 35 rooms would not meet the tediously uniform standards THINGS ARE of today’s luxury hotels but it’s all the better for it. Despite many a cocktail at tiny Bar Non Non, I had Portugal’s Alentejo region is far enough away from the traditional tourist never actually stayed. I’m glad to report that it was hotspots that it can provide all the space you need, unspoilt natural landscapes even better than I’d hoped. and great food that hasn’t changed for generations. With a warm welcome stay: Hilltop Hotel: This with prints for sale. Just Across Switzerland, Badi season – One part of the artificial beach is the swan: he’ll snatch your chips given guaranteed, what are you waiting for? hotel founded in 1954 the place to find that has an old-fashioned vibe rare book on Japanese which stretches from May to October domain of families, teenagers and the chance.) Films are shown after writer Debbie Pappyn photographer David De Vleeschauwer that runs throughout, tattooing or photographer – is rivalled only by ski season. The tourists; another – just to the side – is sundown on a big screen and ear- from the service to the Eikoh Hosoe. first public baths, those aforemen- reserved for those looking for peace ly-evening concerts fill the air with rooms. We’re hoping the book-komiyama.co.jp tioned Badis, were established in and quiet. “This is especially for the music. However, the highlight of the current renovation (to be shop: Shimokura Music: lakes and rivers in the 19th century. locals, we all know each other,” says summer is La Traversata, which is unveiled in November) This musical-instruments They are testament to a vanguard of Barbara, a Lugano resident in a chic “We come now in its 87th year. Hundreds of won’t change that. Until business was opened by municipal workers and leaders who raspberry one-piece. every day. I people take part in the 2,500-metre There’s something rare about places where locals are lived and worked in London for nearly five years before the reopening, check Takashi Shimokura in believed that waterways should be “We come every day,” says swim in Lake Lugano every August. pleasantly surprised when they spot a foreigner discover- establishing his restaurant in the town. It serves delica- in to the Ryumeikan 1937. There are 70 staff clean and accessible to the public. retiree Gia. “I came when I was a came when “We open before most outdoor Ochanomizu Honten. on hand selling 1,800 I was a girl ing their whitewashed village or sipping a glass of wine in cies from fresh oysters and the catch of the day to steak yamanoue-hotel.co.jp, new and 800 secondhand Lido di Lugano is a prime example. girl and I took my kids every day pools, on 1 May,” says Scarcella. their neighbourhood bar. Most destinations are drown- tartare and Porco Ibérico. ryumeikan-honten.jp instruments. Glaciers carved out Lake Lugano when they were small.” It’s rare to and I took Last year part of the lido stayed ing with tourists but that’s not the case for the Alentejo When you drive half an hour inland from Comporta, coffee: Sabouru: Kissaten shimokura-gakki.com in the last ice age and the freshwater see so many generations in one place my kids open until mid-October thanks to region in southern Portugal, where wild beaches meet the people disperse and the landscape shifts from sandy (traditional Japanese shop: Kitazawa jewel is shared by Switzerland and and there’s nowhere like the lido for the warm weather. As the sun begins red-earthed countryside. Bordered on the west by the white pine forests to an endless vista of red earth. The view cafés) ensure that coffee Bookstore: For Italy. While the summer climate feels people-watching. Barbara points to a every day to set, Barbara shows us her storage Atlantic Ocean – with plenty of surf spots and beachside is dotted with countless cork, oak and olive trees, inter- culture is alive and well in secondhand English- tropical, the scenery is alpine – apart distinguished-looking man having a when they cabin – one of 300 coveted lockable cafés – and on the east by hot and dusty Spain, Alentejo spersed by bleating goats with jangling bells around their this area – and Sabouru is language books there from the palm trees here and there. nap on the grass: “He’s the director were small” rooms. Hers has a mirror and a full is dotted with charming towns and blessed with the best necks. Every once in a while you’ll come across a white- among the best. Founded is nowhere better The lake’s northern bank is home to of a well-known museum.” regimen of beauty supplies. “I have soil for growing grapes, as well as olive and cork trees. washed village perched on a hill or a cowboy-style enclave in 1955, its dim, seasoned than Kitazawa, which its namesake town and the historic For those who prefer man-made this for five or six months. I can interior is the perfect opened in 1902 and is It’s also a paradise for the Alentejano black pigs, which where life moves at an extremely slow pace. Throughout, place to while away an run by third-generation lido. The Badi opened in 1928, just to natural bodies of water (you never come here straight after work, any supply the world with the famous porco preto (cured ham). bright white herdades (working farms) break up the rolling hour or two. Ichiro Kitazawa and his as Switzerland’s bathing culture was know what could be lurking in the time I want,” she says, lounging on “Travellers can taste the essence of the Alentejo in scenery – agriculture still plays a major part in the region. 1-11 Kanda Jinbocho, daughter Rika. They becoming popular. depths), three azure pools were the wooden rail of the old lido build- almost every small restaurant because the food is the Some of these family farms have turned their Chiyoda-ku have about 50,000 Lush lawns and pools surround added in 1959. They are framed by ing, overlooking the glittering lake. same as you would find in every home,” says gastronomic herdade into something new: rural retreats. One of them is lunch: Bondy: Don’t be books in stock. the red-timber bathing house, the concrete tribune-style seating and consultant Teresa Vivas, who has lived in the region for Dá Licença; another is Herdade Malhadinha Nova, near put off by the queue: kitazawa.co.jp round roof of which is emblazoned a lawn. Snacks are served at the 13 years. “The dishes have remained unchanged for gen- the inland city of Beja. The latter’s owner, Rita Soares, they run a tight ship here shop: Maach Ecute with “L-I-D-O” front and back – restaurant, which sits at the heart erations thanks to the montado: a sustainable agriculture and her family have turned their plot into an organic and you’ll be seated in Kanda Manseibashi: just in case you forget where you of the Badi.
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