APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 1 2 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 SEPTEMBER 2019, VOL.- XVIII / ISSUE No
APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 1 2 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 SEPTEMBER 2019, VOL.- XVIII / ISSUE No. 09
Editor & Publisher ARVIND KUMAR from the editor... Associate Editor B.P. MISHRA Asst. Editor S-China trade war will help Indian exporters as US apparel firms in search of more investment SWATI SHARMA Uopportunities in India want a free trade agreement (FTA) between both sides. And for this Editorial Adviser representatives from 15 US companies met Indian Textiles Minister Smriti Irani recently and RAJESH CHHABARA suggested improving ease of doing business. An FTA between the United States and India would Sub Editor - Creative promote business in the textiles sector. JOHN EDWARDS Art Director Manufacturing is moving away from China and there is a window of opportunity for India to SANJAY BHANDARI attract investments in manufacturing. However, there is a lot of competition from countries like Sr. Correspondent Bangladesh, Vietnam and Indonesia, and India needs to do all it can to increase its relevance. In ASHWANI KUMAR the last four years, investments worth $30 bn in textiles had moved out of China because of Correspondent various factors including rising input costs, but very little had come to India. DEEPTI ANISH KUMAR The delegation, which had representatives from Ralph Lauren, the PVH Group and Carter’s Inc, Creative - Head also discussed business possibilities with Niti Aayog Chief Executive Officer Amitabh Kant and met SREEKUMAR. M the faculty of the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) to exchange ideas on the latest Sr. Layout Artist trends in design. The delegation also visited the Brandix India Apparel City in Visakhapatnam under JATIN JAIN the aegis of the A.P. Economic Development Board (APEDB). Sr. Designer RAJEEV KUMAR Further, India and Iran can conclude a Preferential Trade Agreement (PTA) by this year end as Production Manager very limited formalities are to be completed. However, the proposed Bilateral Investment MUKESH POKHRIYAL Protection Agreement (BIPA) will take a little longer as details on this front need some more e-Magazine approvals and endorsement. SUMER SINGH Business Promotion Meanwhile, Indian Textile Secretary Ravi Kumar met representatives of various association of BOBBY BAKSHI (DELHI) Surat and has assured power loom industry stakeholders that pending applications for Technology ANITA RAI (DELHI) Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS) would be cleared within two months. About 6,000 applications N. SABARI SELVAM (TIRUPUR) PAVITHRA R. (TIRUPUR) from Surat are pending under the scheme for the last two years due to technical reasons. About SARVANA KUMAR (TIRUPUR) `800 cr is stuck under TUFS for long. The clearance of the subsidy amount will boost modernisation Circulation in the textile sector in Surat and give them some relief from present crisis. DEEPA RAWAT (DELHI) RAJESWARI (TIRUPUR) The industry has recently thanked Nirmala Sitharaman for the announcement of new measures Accounts Head to boost exports and for considering the continuance of MEIS at 4 percent till December end. ANJU CHAUHAN TONDAK The Priority Sector Lending (PSL) norms for export credit under consideration of RBI and Head Office releasing an additional `36,000 cr to `68,000 cr as Export Credit under Priority Sector are also Plot No. 31, 1st Floor, Sai Enclave, welcoming steps. Sector -23, Dwarka, New Delhi - 110077, INDIA Tel.: 093107 66051 The leverage of technology will be used to reduce Time to Export or Turnaround Time which will [email protected], [email protected] [email protected] give cushion to exporting units and will be helpful to meet out the delivery schedule and also Regd. Office reduction of logistics cost. All these measures will give business confidence to the struggling C-75, DGS Housing Society, Plot No. 6, export sector, and pending amount is expected to be reimbursed soon. Sector-22, Dwarka, New Delhi-110077 Regional Offices Tirupur No. 23, Ground Floor, Indra Nagar, Avinashi Road, Tirupur - 641 603 Tel.: 0421-4325579, 95439 55888, 88700 06778 [email protected] Arvind Kumar, Editor & Publisher Kolkata Tapan Kumar - 99581 99872 Bangalore B.P. Mishra - 93414 44727, 080-2343 4446 Overseas Office Apparel Views Bangladesh Limited Section-1, Road-1, House-21, Priyanka Housing, Mirpur-1, Dhaka 1216, bangladesh, Bangladesh, Tel.: +88.02.900.9419 / 01799.751.096 / +01713.331.228 E-mail: [email protected] / [email protected]
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Owner, Publisher, Printer & Editor - Arvind Kumar, printed and processed by him at Sterling Publisher Pvt. Ltd., A-59, Okhla Industrial Area, Phase - II, New Delhi - 110 020, published from C - 75, DGS Housing Society, Plot No. 6, Sector - 22, Dwarka, New Delhi - 110 077. Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher.
APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 3 Contents
34 40 46
Globe trotter 4
Domestic update 18
To boost yarn exports, restore back incentives 28
Fashion on demand becoming a reality now 32
CMAI’s Apparel Index shows decline in India’s exports 34
Lectra & AEPC come together to host Industry 4.0 seminar 36
High cost of cheap fashion 38
Can welding replace sewing in the garment industry? 40
EPSON – Ready to expand business in the world’s digital textile market 42
Indian weaving industry Reeling under pressure 46
PROMAKER - Eyeing to become world’s leading embroidery machine company in next five years 66
Lakme Fashion Week 70 Trends Winter/Festive 2019 70
Munich Fabric Start Trends – Autumn/Winter 20/21 78
Konica Minolta and True Colors teaming up to bring revolution in digital textile printing 84
14th YFA Trade Show 86
Forthcoming trade events 87
4 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 5 Pakistan’s textile articles exports increase in July he exports of textile articles Tfrom the country grew by 3.16 percent during the first month of current financial year 2019-20 as compared to the corresponding month of last year. During the month of July, 2019, the export of textile and its articles was recorded at $1233.636 mn as against $1195.820 mn exports recorded during the same month of last year, showing growth of 3.16 percent, according to the data issued by the State Bank of Pakistan. The commodities that contributed in growth were carpets and other textile floor coverings, export of which grew from $6.414 mn last year to $6.978 mn during the period under review, showing growth of 8.79 percent. The exports of articles of apparel and clothing accessories (knitted or crocheted) grew by 6.57 percent from $258.274 mn to $275.258 mn while the exports of articles of apparel or clothing accessories (not knitted or crocheted) also increased by 11.08 percent from $218.072 mn to $242.245 mn. During the period under review, the export of knitted or crocheted fabrics increased by 116 percent from Bangladesh to gain more from $1.787 mn to $3.860 mn whereas the export of other made-up textile articles FTA with China increased by 3.85 percent from $337.453 mn to $350.465 mn, the data revealed. The export of man-made filaments increased by 22.89 percent from $2.223 mn to $2.732 mn while the exports of man-made staple fibers also increased by 8.08 percent from $24.972 mn to $26.992 mn. Meanwhile, the export of other vegetable textile fibers (paper yarn etc.) increased by 145.28 percent from $0.371 mn to $0.910 mn, the data added. On the other hand, the commodities that contributed in negative growth included silk, exports of which declined by 44 percent from $0.525 mn to $0.294 mn while the export of wool, fine or coarse animal hair, horse hair yarn also decreased by 80 percent from $0.501 mn to $0.100 mn. During first month of current financial year, the exports cotton dipped by 2.99 percent from $327.557 mn to $317.743 mn while the exports of wadding, felt and non-woven, special yarn, twine also decreased by hina-Bangladesh FTA agreement can bring more Bangladeshi products into 97.11 percent, from $14.588 mn to $1.880 mn, the data revealed Cthe scope of tax exemption, effectively alleviate the bilateral trade deficit between Bangladesh and China,” Prof Cheng Min of the Institute for Bangladesh Studies of the Yunnan Academy of Social Science, Kunming, says. Firms in Vietnam biggest winners “On the other hand, it also lays a good foundation for promoting the construction in US-China trade war of "Bangladesh, China, India and Myanmar" economic corridor,” she said, ietnamese firms are not speaking at an international conference on the belt and road initiative (BRI) in benefiting from the US-China Dhaka recently. V trade war as perceived. A recent She tried to give an overview of the feasibility and countermeasure analysis of report by financial data provider the signing of the China-Bangladesh FTA and allay possible concerns. “At Fiin Group shows foreign-invested present, China's competitive advantages in steel, non-ferrous metals, building firms account for almost all the materials, railways, electricity, chemical industry, automobiles, rise in exports to the US as its communications, construction machinery, aerospace ships and marine trade spat intensifies. South engineering will hardly impact Bangladesh, because Bangladesh's industries Korean garment manufacturers in are just starting. Vietnam have reaped the highest benefits from the trade war. Between June 2018 and June 2019, 143 South “According to Liszt's theory of infant industry, a lot of imports and foreign Korean companies accounted for almost half of Vietnam’s garment export value. investment are needed at this time. Due to the rising labour costs, it is also In garments, Vietnamese firms only accounted for 16 per cent of the export value difficult for China's homogeneous ready-made clothing products to impact during the period, with FDI firms making up the remaining 84 per cent. Bangladesh,” Prod Min said. Bangladesh does not have free trade agreement with any country. The advantage for South Korean corporations stems from the fact that they have been in Vietnam since the early 2000s and have well established supply chains In October 2016, during Chinese President Xi Jinping visit to Bangladesh, the in the country. "The majority of Vietnamese companies is still small-sized and two sides agreed to launch a feasibility study on bilateral free trade area. does not meet foreign buyers’ requirements on quality, quantity and cost," says Bangladesh also joined his flagship BRI during that visit. Prof Min said the report. US buyers still prefer products from China because prices are more Bangladesh is an “important partner” of China in South Asia, and the competitive than that of Vietnamese products. The Fiin Group report said an establishment of the FTA will not only benefit the two countries to carry out American buyer has to pay $55 for a reflective clothing item produced by a economic cooperation, but also will have a “positive impact” on the BRI Vietnamese firm, while the same product from a Chinese company costs half at construction. The bilateral trade of $16.4 bn in 2017 grew with an average $27. The reason is that Vietnamese companies have to import most of the raw annual growth of 20 percent since 1975 when China established diplomatic ties materials, such as fabric and reflective material, from China. Even with tariffs with Bangladesh. It is heavily in favour of China. In 2018, China's direct investment added, Chinese companies can still provide products at lower prices than in Bangladesh was $228 mn Vietnamese companies, the report added
6 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 Hirdaramani Group Foreign investors diversifying in Vietnam promotes circular economy textile sector nlike the past when foreign investors in Vietnam’s garment and textile sectors came for Uprocessing only, they are now diversifying through direct and indirect investment via acquisitions and purchases of shares in domestic firms, with a focus on yarn, garment and accessories. This change is apparently the result of the recent free trade agreements (FTAs) signed. Once these projects get operational, they will help to partly solve the shortage in supply of garment and textile accessories and meet rules of the new FTAs, according to a report. The Binh Duong province he Hirdaramani Group, one of Sri Lanka’s biggest apparel recently granted permission to South Texporters, recently teamed up with the Ellen MacArthur Korea’s Kyung Bang Vietnam to expand its Foundation’s ‘Make Fashion Circular’ initiative to improve use of investment by an additional $40 mn with resources, encourage regenerative efforts, reduce energy and the aim to raise its annual cotton yarn water use, and reduce waste with better design in apparel production capacity to 9,000 tonnes and manufacturing, according to its Director Nikhil Hirdaramani. blended yarn production capacity to 11,000 tonnes. The project aims to produce woven fabric, knitted fabric and crocheted fabric and complete woven products. With this additional capital, The development is part of its sustainability initiative, he said. the project now has a total investment of up to more than $219 mn. “Fast fashion has become one of the most polluting industries. While apparel production has increased, the time clothing is worn Taiwan’s Far Eastern Group has also spent hundreds of millions of dollars for a project of fabric has fallen, resulting in much waste which ends up in landfills,” and chemical yarn in Bau Bang Industrial Park in Binh Duong and continues to hire more land report quoted Hirdaramani as telling a forum for fashion industry there to expand investment. Singapore’s Herberton Limited Company started construction of students and officials from the Ellen MacArthur Foundation in the the Nam Dinh Ramatex Textile and Garment Factory with a total investment of around $80 mn. United States recently. The group is part of a global project to Once operational, the factory will have an annual capacity of 25,000 tonnes of fabric and 15 mn redesign jeans to make their manufacturing sustainable by 2021. apparel items and offer jobs to around 3,000. Foreign investment in the country’s garment and Hirdaramani said their efforts focus on garment durability, material textile sector was poor earlier, but in the past three years, large enterprises from the United health, recyclability, and traceability. The group employs about States and Europe have flocked to Vietnam, according to Vu Duc Giang, Chairman of the 20,000 people in factories across the island and provides apparel Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association. A German group recently invested in a sheep wool design, production and delivery services to some of the world’s yarn spinning plant project in Da lat. Groups from Israel and the United States invested in top fashion and clothing brands textile plants in Binh Dinh province and dyeing in Nam Dinh province
APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 7 Egypt's textile exports General Manufacturing PMI of China increase in 7 months increases slightly gypt's textile exports rose 0.3 percent to reach $1.756 bn hina’s Purchasing Managers’ Index Eduring the period from January to July 2019, up from $1.752 C(PMI)—a composite indicator designed bn in the same period last year. In its monthly report, the textiles, to provide a single-figure snapshot of operating apparel, and home textiles export council said the exports of conditions in the manufacturing economy— ready-made clothes jumped 6 percent to hit $967 mn in the first rose from 49.9 in July to 50.4 in August, signaling seven months of 2019, compared to 915 mn last year. The US a renewed improvement in the overall health ranked first as the top market importing Egyptian textile products of the sector in China. It is the strongest at a value of $623 mn, followed by European countries ($561 improvement recorded since March. Operating mn) and Arab countries ($220 mn) conditions faced by Chinese manufacturers improved slightly in August, with firms registering the quickest increase in production Medical textile market for five months. New order intakes were meanwhile broadly stable, despite a faster decline in growth affected due to new export sales, Report said on General Manufacturing for the month of August 2019. "The improved production trend led firms to expand their purchasing activity further, while stringent EU regulation stocks of finished goods rose for the first time this year to date. Prices data showed a renewed fall in input costs contributed to a stronger decline in output charges. At the same time, sentiment regarding the 12-month outlook for output softened to a level that was among the lowest in the series history, with optimism dampened by worries over the future trading relationship of China and the US, as well as signs of weaker global conditions," the report said. "China’s manufacturing sector showed a recovery in August, mainly due to improved production activity. However, overall demand didn’t improve, and foreign demand declined notably, leading product inventories to grow. There was no sign of an improvement in companies’ willingness to replenish inventories of inputs or in their confidence. Industrial prices trended down. China’s economy showed signs of a short-term recovery, but downward pressure remains a long-term problem. Amid unstable Sino-American relations, China needs to step up countercyclical policies,” Dr. Zhengsheng Zhong, Director of Macroeconomic Analysis at CEBM Group, said he market for medical textiles has the potential to be one of Tthe fastest growing categories within the technical textile sector between 2018 and 2025. But growth is threatened by a Kornit and Spreadshirt announce new, stringent EU regulation for medical devices, according to expanded partnership a report in issue 114 of Technical Textile Markets from the global business information company Textiles Intelligence. ornit Digital, a market leader in digital textile printing technology and Spreadshirt, the self- Kexpression global e-commerce company, have announced an expanded partnership for The new regulation, known as Medical Devices Regulation Spreadshirt to grow and renew its fleet of DTG printers to support increased demand and to (MDS), becomes mandatory in 2020 and poses a threat to the expand into new categories. Spreadshirt, an on-demand apparel brand printing more than 5.5 growth prospects of the medical textile sector -- not least mn items annually, recently launched a division for third-party fulfillment that is already seeing because it will have a major impact on product development rapid growth. The company also plans to expand into polyester sports clothing. Spreadshirt says and innovation. it prioritises quality and customer satisfaction and will be investing in Kornit’s most innovative The new regulation was approved by the European Parliament print technologies in order to meet the highest quality standards and deliver fast turnaround to in order to tighten requirements following two high profile cases their customers, while increasing productivity and efficiency. in which product safety standards were found to be inadequate “Quality and customer satisfaction and the health of the patients involved was severely impacted. have top priority at Spreadshirt. With Under the new regulation, the time required to design and the significant investment we are develop a new medical product and bring it to market could making in new technologies and double compared with the time it takes to bring a product to machines, we will not only achieve market under the current regulations. The parties expected to top print results, but we will also be be most affected will be small and medium-sized enterprises able to meet more customer demands (SMEs). However, all manufacturers, regulatory authorities and in less time,” commented Hanne notified bodies face the prospect of a heavy workload, a lack of Dinkel, Chief Customer Delivery Officer resources and a lack of available know-how from experts. of Spreadshirt. Spreadshirt has purchased Kornit Atlas systems, to In order to overcome the challenges posed by the new regulation, be installed at multiple sites internationally. The Kornit Atlas is a high-capacity system, designed companies are advised to work in collaboration with their entire to deliver typical annual production capacity of up to 350,000 impressions, optimising production supply chains in order to ensure compliance with the regulation, efficiency and cost of ownership. The system is aimed at highly productive garment decorators, and focus their efforts on growing markets. mid-to-large-size screen printers, and innovative businesses looking to combine state-of-the Three markets which are experiencing increasing demand are art technology with lowest cost of ownership. implantable products, non-implantable products, and health and In addition, Spreadshirt has been testing the Kornit Avalanche Poly Pro, as it plans to expand its hygiene products. Within these markets, it is recommended business into the lucrative and growing sports and athleisure segments. The Kornit Avalanche that companies focus on the research and development of Poly Pro is a digital, industrial process for high-quality printing on polyester, preventing dye- products which have the greatest potential for innovation -- migration. The solution is based on Kornit’s patented NeoPoly Technology. “Our mission is to particularly woven fabrics, nanocomposites and materials reinvent the garment and textile printing industry with game-changing technologies. It is exciting whose properties can be changed in response to stimuli. The to see this mission come to life, with visionary customers like Spreadshirt who innovate to open companies which do so will be in a strong position to face the new markets and new business opportunities, all while being more operationally efficient,” said challenges which the new regulation poses Omer Kulka, Kornit’s VP of Marketing and Product Strategy
8 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 9 New LYCRA® FitSense™ technology Fully biodegradable he LYCRA Co., announced the global launch of new LYCRA® FitSense™ technology. This innovation fibres by Lenzing Tis a patented water-based dispersion that features the same molecule as LYCRA® fibre, but in liquid form. Lycra FitSense technology is screen printed onto fabric containing Lycra fibre to deliver targeted lightweight support that can be combined with visual effects like patterns or colour blocks. As a result, sewn-in panels or extra seams that may restrict movement and cause discomfort could be eliminated and the consumer’s need for great-fitting, ultra-comfortable garments is satisfied, giving support just where it is needed. “We first offered Lycra FitSense technology to key customers in Europe and the US and we’re so thrilled with the results that we’re launching it globally,” said Serge Vigouroux, Executive Vice President, new ventures & marketing at The Lycra Co. “Customer feedback and product reviews have been extremely positive, and we’ve had many new inquiries from customers interested in adopting the technology.” enzing received confirmation of full biodegradability of its fibres in fresh water by independent research Lycra FitSense technology can transform activewear and L laboratory Organic Waste Systems (OWS). The new and athleisure apparel (leggings and tops) and intimate apparel existing international certifications conducted by OWS and (bras, sports bras, bralettes, underwear and shapewear) by issued by TÜV Austria verified that Lenzing's viscose, modal adding lightweight power, soft shaping and lift, and targeted and lyocell fibres are biodegradable in all natural and support without sacrificing comfort. industrial environments. The biodegradability of cellulosic “This innovation is a game-changer for our apparel business products and the synthetic fibre polyester was tested in that, until now, focused primarily on fiber technologies,” said fresh water at OWS according to valid international Vigouroux. “We are already looking into new formulas, additional application processes, and other standards, e.g ISO 14851. At the end of the trial period, apparel end uses to expand this technology further.” Lenzing wood-based cellulosic fibres, cotton and paper pulp were shown to be fully biodegradable in fresh water in Lycra FitSense technology offers printers, garment makers, brands and retailers a host of benefits. contrast to synthetic polyester fibres, said the company in a This solution helps streamline garment manufacturing, offers unlimited design possibilities that statement. The fact that synthetic materials are not provide functional benefits, and differentiates garments by providing a premium offering made with biodegradable leads to major problems in wastewater a breakthrough innovation treatment plants and potentially marine litter. In turn, this not only harms fish and birds living in and close to the oceans Advance Denim launches collection made but also all marine organisms and us humans. "The Lenzing Group operates a truly circular business model with aniline-free* indigo by Archroma based on the renewable raw material wood to produce biodegradable fibres returning to nature after use. This rchroma, a global leader in colour and speciality complete cycle comprises the starting point of the core chemicals towards sustainable solutions, announced A value of sustainability embedded in our company strategy that Advance Denim Co Ltd (“Advance Denim”) will be the sCore TEN and is the 'raison d'etre' of our company," said first Chinese denim manufacturer to offer a collection made Stefan Doboczky, Chief Executive Officer of the Lenzing with Archroma’s aniline-free* Denisol® Pure Indigo. Group. "In living up to this positioning, we not only enhance Established in 1987, Advance Denim is the oldest denim the business of our suppliers, customers and partners along mill in China. The company has its own innovative research the value chain but also improve the state of the entire and development, manufacturing and sales teams, including textile and nonwovens industries." a 120,000 sqr mtr manufacturing facility in Shunde, China, and well as offices in Hong Kong, Shanghai, Amsterdam Both the textile and nonwovens industries face huge and New York. challenges with respect to littering. If current trends continue, the oceans could contain more plastic than fish With its motto: ‘True to Denim’, and focus on innovation and by 2050. Therefore, legislative bodies worldwide can no sustainable manufacturing, Advance Denim could only want longer ignore the issue and have moved towards plastics to explore Archroma’s aniline-free* indigo solution, when it legislation aimed at limiting the vast amount of waste. In was first launched in May 2018 as a non-toxic way to produce response, European lawmakers issued the Single-Use the traditional, iconic indigo blue that consumers associate with denim and jeans. Plastics Directive currently being transposed into national During traditional indigo dyeing process production, some of the aniline stays locked into the indigo legislation in the EU member States. pigment and is difficult to wash off the fabric. The remainder of the aniline impurity, approximately Conventional wet wipes and hygiene products mostly 300 metric tonne annually, is discharged during dyeing. This can be an issue as aniline is toxic to contain plastic and were thus identified as one of the aquatic life. In addition, exposure levels to factory workers can be high. As a result of its toxicity it is product categories to be singled out. Less polluting now starting to feature on the restricted substance lists (RSL) of some major clothing brands and alternatives are generally encouraged by NGOs and retailers. The new Denisol® Pure Indigo 30 liq was therefore developed as an aniline-free* indigo legislators, e.g. products made of biodegradable wood- solution for designers, manufacturers and brand owners who long for authentic indigo inspiration. based cellulosic fibres. Plastic waste including microplastic Umberto De Vita, Global Business Development, Denim & Casual Wear, at Archroma, adds, “At can persist in the environment for centuries. In contrast, Archroma, we try to do our part, step by step, and that is why we developed the purest pre-reduced biodegradable materials are the best alternative to single- liquid aniline-free* indigo available on the market. Together with the most eco-conscious denim use plastics because they fully convert back to nature by mills out there, such as Advance Denim in China, we can make clean indigo - and clean denim. definition and thus do not require recycling. The Lenzing Because it’s our nature!” Group stands for ecologically responsible production of specialty fibres made from the renewable raw material “Advance Denim and Archroma are demonstrating, through action, how a traditional industry can wood. As an innovation leader, Lenzing is a partner of global transform and become sustainable while remaining profitable," comments Amy Wang, Managing textile and nonwoven manufacturers and drives many new Director, Advance Denim technological developments
10 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 11 Cambodia to host Textile and Apparel SEA Summit 2019 ambodia will be the venue next month of one of Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP) and the Cthe biggest and most important gatherings of Comprehensive and Progressive Agreement for Trans- stakeholders in the garment sector in Southeast Asia. Pacific Partnership (CPTPP) on the region’s textile and According to the official website of the event, the apparel industry; apparel procurement; different trends Textile and Apparel SEA Summit 2019 will be held in in the region’s labour markets; and the latest Phnom Penh on Oct 28 and 29. The venue for the government policy on investment in the industry. event has yet to be disclosed. The organisers have invited industry leaders and The organisers are expecting 100 to 500 attendees, experts from all over the world to speak at the including government officials and representatives event, including representatives of the from companies in India, Myanmar, Vietnam, China, International Apparel Federation, US-ASEAN and other countries. Ten to 50 exhibitors are also attendees and exhibitors. Bruce Zhang, a member of Business Council, Cambodia’s Ministry of expected to display their products and services at the organising committee, said there is much to learn Commerce, Vietnam Textile and Apparel the event. and gain from the event. The event is being organized Associations, Garment Manufacturers Association by SZ&W Group, a leading event organiser in Asia. of Cambodia, Myanmar Garment Manufacturers The event comes after the Kingdom hosted the 8th Association, China Textile Information Center, and Cambodia International Textile & Garment Industry The event website says the major topics that will be the Textile Association of India Exhibition last month, which also drew foreign discussed are: The influence of the Regional
Cone Denim announces Crystal X Cone Collaboration one Denim, a leading denim innovator, has "Crystal is a leader in laser technology and denim Cannounced Crystal X Cone Collaboration. The finishing and we are excited to join forces with them. collaboration with Crystal, a leader in apparel The Crystal X Cone Collaboration advances the manufacturing, brings together 2 global leaders in sustainability supply chain by offering denim products denim to provide a new level of sustainable denim that are sustainable from the fabric through to the solutions and fabric offerings. Cone Denim previewed laundry," said Steve Maggard, Cone Denim the Collection at Kingpins China City Tour trade show President. "Starting with recycled cotton, our Cone recently. The Crystal X Cone Collaboration expands 3D experts have created a collection of denim fabrics the sustainable denim offered as part of Cone Denim's that are responsibly produced and engineered for Sustainblue Collection and brings new capabilities to optimal laser technology finishing. Cone is customers as part of Crystal's Eco Blu Collection. committed to partnering across the industry to engage in meaningful collaborations with like- "These new fabrics support sustainable practices creating more innovative solutions for our customers," minded leaders to create authentically-inspired, throughout the development and production lifecycle said Miles Lam, AGM of product development for environmentally-friendly denims." featuring responsible cotton, recycled content and Crystal. "Our laser technology has opened up new environmentally friendly processing. The Crystal X "Creating sustainable premium denim apparel starts and advanced possibilities to creating beautifully Cone capsule collection offers premium denim fabrics with the fabric and Cone Denim's heritage and designed denim which minimises the usage of water that are uniquely engineered and designed for high innovative approach made it a perfect partner for this and chemicals. Starting with Cone's sustainably performance with garment laser technology," said Collaboration. Our commitment to sustainability will designed fabric, we are able to offer the highest degree Cone Denim in a report. lead us to work closely with our supply chain for of eco-friendly denim products to our customers"
Fashionsustain conference becomes more international and bringing together trailblazers from the industry. LAFF has evolved from the LA Fashion Film Festival On 20 September the event will be held during the LA and will be offering film screenings, workshops, Fashion Festival in Los Angeles. And on 26 September, masterclasses, pop-ups and lectures all about it will be incorporated into Intertextile Shanghai fashion from 20-21 September. Apparel Fabrics in Shanghai. At Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, one of the At the LA Fashion Festival (LAFF), Fashionsustain world’s largest trade fairs for clothing fabrics and will be taking place under the motto “The change of accessories organised by Messe Frankfurt, there will fashion is now” in close cooperation with Lenzing. be a keynote speech by Edwin Keh (Hong Kong Lenzing will be informing visitors at their own stand Research Institute of Textile and Apparel, HKRITA) about the value chain as well as the benefits in at Fashionsustain on 26 September in Shanghai. terms of sustainability and performance regarding Afterwards, Andreas Streubig (Director Global its Tencel™ fibre brand. Speakers include Sustainability, Hugo Boss), Jiehui Kia (Principal ith another two spin-offs in Los Angeles and representatives from Lenzing, Candiani and Global Sustainability Strategiest, Forum for the Future), WShanghai, Messe Frankfurt is driving forward Denim as well as “the Godfather of Denim” Adriano Micke Magnusson (Change Agent und Advisor, the internationalisation of Fashionsustain, the Neonyt Goldschmied and Kerry Bannigan from the Conscious ReAccess) und Mikkel Hansen (Program and conference. In July, it made an appearance in New Fashion Campaign supported by the UN Office Partnership Lead at Explorium, Fung Group) will be York City. With Tencel™, Lenzing is supporting the for Partnerships. talking about the importance and the challenges of conference’s international efforts. implementing more textile innovation pilot projects As an integral part of the fashion events in Los as well as the question of how to bring new textiles Messe Frankfurt’s Fashionsustain conference, which Angeles, the two-day LA Fashion Festival brings to the market faster focuses on sustainable textile innovations, will be together influences from film, retail, innovation and taking place outside of Germany twice in September beauty, inciting immersive cultural experiences. The
12 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 100 percent 'sustainable' cotton by Kohl Mustang and ISKO launch S retail department store chain Kohl’s has MoveOn Denim Uannounced plans to achieve 100 percent sustainably-sourced cotton in its proprietary brands enim brand Mustang and denim by 2025. The company, the world's third largest Dingredient brand ISKO have department store chain, is also aiming to ensure launched MoveOn Denim, made that 50 per cent of its propriety brands that use with ISKO Blue Skin fabric and said polyester will be made with recycled materials. by the pair to “guarantee” maximum The commitment comes as part of Kohl’s comfort and free movement. ISKO sustainability goals for 2025 which have been Blue Skin is an extra-light stretch announced as part of its corporate social fabric which has 360 degree responsibility platform. The retailer aims to elasticity and expands in all decrease greenhouse gases by 50 percent in all directions. The companies say: “As operations owned by Kohl’s by 2025. It will also a result of the special weaving further expand renewable energy assets from its current 161 solar and wind locations. It aims technique, MoveOn has a refined to reduce energy consumption by 10 per cent by 2025, and to move towards a low-carbon and extremely comfortable fit. An transportation system by increasing the number of locations offering electrical vehicle charging. authentic denim look with Kohl’s also plans to reduce the waste generated by diverting around 85 percent of its waste contemporary washings completes away from landfills in the US. It also aims to reduce the use of hazardous chemicals. this sophisticated denim product.” The company also said it will require its suppliers to complete the Higg Index Environmental Daniel Peterburs, Mustang’s Chief Module – a suite of tools that allows companies to measure environmental performance – Product Officer, said: “The jeans by 2025. Kohl’s is also aiming to use the Higg Index itself to drive “substantial” water establish a new level of wearing comfort for everyone who loves reductions, though the company did not identify a specific goal in that area. And it will work denim. These are real purchasing arguments for the customer and with agents, partners and suppliers to monitor factory working conditions to help ensure therefore, a competitive advantage in the market. We have confidence the fair and ethical treatment of workers in a safe and healthy work environment. Kohl’s that the MoveOn jeans will establish themselves as the denim must- says its goals align with the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) and the company have for everyone who wears jeans." plans to monitor and report progress against the goals annually in its Corporate Social Global Field Marketing Manager of ISKO Elena Faleschini said: “it Responsibility report. CEO Michelle Gass said, “At Kohl’s, we are committed to being a has been an absolute pleasure to work with Mustang on the responsible corporate citizen, making our communities stronger by supporting initiatives MoveOn launch. The ISKO Blue Skin patented technology ensures and organisations that focus on health and wellness, sustainability, and environmental freedom of movement and extreme comfort, and its fabric efforts that benefit all families. “We are proud to share our sustainability goals that support characteristics are a guarantee of perfect, long-term wearability Kohl’s efforts to enhance our standing as a retailer of purpose” for the Mustang customer”
APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 13 Bemberg to focus on Smart Creation n order to strongly highlight its deep commitment by the LCA study, signed by ICEA and validated by Ito responsible innovation, Bemberg has decided to Paolo Masoni, confirming a new quality profile and exhibit within the Smart Creation Area of Premiere standard with a more responsible and unique position Vision (PV) Paris, the key research and sourcing space today. Bemberg now has full GRS certification, Oeko- for new generation of sustainable solutions from tex 100, ISO 14001, & Eco-Mark. It also has a new September 17-19. Made by Asahi Kasei, Bemberg is Compostability Certification. The Innovhub-SSI report sole maker of high-tech natural material which has a confirms Bemberg filaments disintegrate at 100 per unique touch and feel. cent value within the limits specified by the UNI EN 13432 for disintegration in composting. In Paris, the company will speed up on its responsible profile and showcase the unique range of materials According to ISO 16929:2013, the compost obtained developed by its premium partners within the Smart from the Bemberg filaments have revealed no Creation area, an informative, educational, visionary ecotoxicity effect. The Bemberg filaments were tested and multimedia space where exhibitors, designers, Apart from the exquisite and precious touch of for heavy metals and other toxic hazardous buyers and fashion brands can experience and truly Bemberg fabrics, people at the show can also see the substances and were found to comply with tests visualise the progress the industry is making in terms unique circularity of Bemberg from its source, specified by the UNI EN 13432 of responsibility, said Bemberg in a report. manufacture and end-of-life credentials, supported
European countries ranked Saurer celebrates 150 years of first among destinations embroidery machines for textile sales n 31 August 2019, dignitaries, retired Oand current Embroidery Business Unit employees as well as members of the public came together to celebrate Saurer’s 150th anniversary in Arbon, Switzerland, where the company's journey as a manufacturer of textile machinery began. In 1869, Saurer produced its first manual hand embroidery machine, taking advantage of the embroidery boom that was gripping the region at the time and changing the industry on a grand scale. Over the decades, we continued to refine and improve our shuttle embroidery xports of non-woven apparel and accessories to 162 machine, bringing many innovative technologies to market. Ecountries in the January-June period reached $3.3 bn "While we can be proud of our achievement, we have to keep an eye on the future as our journey goes while it was calculated at $3.2 bn last year in the first on. In the coming years, the business unit will continue in the pioneering footsteps of its founding half, and European countries ranked first among family. We look forward to new successes, which will allow our customers to produce fabulous destinations for textile sales abroad. creations," says Efthimios Katsidis, General Manager, BU Embroidery, Saurer Technologies According to the Turkish Statistical Institute (TurkStat), Turkey has maintained its momentum in exports of non- woven apparel and accessories in recent years.The US men's clothing demand to increase by revenues of the sector in the first half of the year came in at $84 mn higher compared to the same period of last 1.6 percent annually year. Imports, on the other hand, decreased by 29 percent S retail demand for men's clothing is projected to rise by 1.6 per cent annually in nominal terms till in the first half of the year compared to the same period 2023, according to ‘Men's Clothing: United States’, a report released recently by Freedonia Focus last year, while exports increased by 2.6 percent. U Reports. Continued population growth will underlie gains, as will rising consumer income, driving In the first six months of the year, Turkey exported non- spending on luxury, environment-friendly and name-brand items. woven apparel and accessories to 162 countries. Gains will also be driven by growing interest European countries took the lead in exports of non-woven from men in maintaining a fashionable apparel and accessories in this period, spearheaded by appearance and an ongoing athleisure trend Spain with $645.9 mn. While this figure accounted for boosting demand for activewear featuring about 19 percent of total exports, Spain was followed by higher priced performance materials.Growing Germany with $427.8 mn, the United Kingdom with $293.2 costs from increasing use of such materials mn, the Netherlands with $205.6 mn, and France with and the imposition of tariffs for clothing $137.4 mn in foreign sales. imported from China will force apparel In this period, Turkey's imports in this sector dropped to manufacturers to lower margins and/or raise $368.4 mn. Thus, the imports of non-woven apparel and prices, according to a company report. accessories of $513.4 mn realized in the first half of last However, the mature market for clothing year decreased by approximately $145 mn. Bangladesh, and intensifying competition from a variety with $67 mn, took the first place among the countries of retail channels will limit volume growth and price increases. In addition, more men are from which Turkey imported non-woven apparel and purchasing apparel (especially athletic apparel) wearable for a variety of activities in diverse accessories in this period, followed by China with $52 social contexts, such as fitness centres, workplaces and restaurants, reducing the number of mn, Italy with $34 mn, Egypt with $31 mn, and Spain garments needed in a wardrobe with $22 mn
14 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 15 Renzacci and UK Fashion & Textile Long Tall Sally teams up with Association join hands Lycra to create ultra-stretch jean enzacci UK recently part R nered with UK Fashion & Textile Association (UKFT) en- abling firms purchasing a new wet cleaning system to re- ceive free 12-month UKFT membership. The agreement gives businesses access to a number of member benefits, including free business advice and support, networking opportunities, marketing nown as original source of tall jeans, fashion retailer Long Tall Sally has support, access to seminars and training. UKFT took the responsibility for cham- Kteamed up with The Lycra Company to develop a jean that not only offers pioning the dry cleaning, wet cleaning and high street laundry services from its great fit for tall women but also exceptional shape retention wash after wash. federated member, the Textile Services Association (TSA), in 2018. It is the UK Sourced from Calik, one of world's finest denim mills, the new ultra stretch representative for GINETEX care labeling symbols and also sits on various BSI/ jean is produced with Lycra dualFX technology. The ultra-stretch jean is available ISO committees, which impact the entire sector. in up to six washes and two styles: Slim, bootcut and skinny from September The association also acts as a voice between government and industry and 2, 2019 at Long Tall Sally's website. Sizing ranges from size 8 to 24 and inside represents the sector in areas including the Sustainability in Textile Care leg 34" to 38", said a report by The Lycra Company. Committee and the Minimisation of Plastics in Textiles, according to a report Long Tall Sally sells over 140,000 pairs of jeans each year and with knowledge from Renzacci.“This agreement is part of UKFT’s commitment to creating the honed through its exceptional customer insights, knows that denim fit, retention right environment for the garment and textile care industry to thrive and we look and recovery are particularly important to taller women. Typically, as fabric forward to welcoming new companies into our network,” said Martin Jenkins, stretch increases, so does the tendency for fabric growth or shrinkage. By UKFT Project Manager combining Lycra fibre and Lycra T400 fibre together in one fabric, customers get the best of both worlds — the high stretch of Lycra fibre and the excellent recovery power of Lycra T400 fibre. This has allowed Long Tall Sally to offer its Polygiene & Tommy to launch stays customers, no matter what their shape or size, a super stretch jean that maintains its form over time and fits all day, every day. "Ultra Stretch marks a fresh technology step change in our denim offer. These jeans have real stability, so they retain olygiene has announced its partnership with one leading designer lifestyle their original shape and feel brand new, every time you wear them," said Pbrand, Tommy Hilfiger, which is owned by PVH. Polygiene stays fresh technology Rebecca Hirst, Senior Denim Buyer at Long Tall Sally. will be introduced in Spring 2020 Tommy Sport men’s and women’s tops, shorts, "Fashion forward companies like Long Tall Sally understand the value of helping and tank tops. Polygiene is an internationally recognised supplier of odour control customers to feel and look fantastic, no matter what their shape or size. Lycra and freshness technologies. dualFX was developed in response to consumer demand for comfort, fit, and Polygiene stays fresh technology features an odour-control fabric treatment that shape retention - the key purchase motivators for denim garments. Paired inhibit the growth of odour-causing bacteria. This lets people wear clothing more together, these insights and technologies have led to the development of the and wash it less, which contributes to savings in water, energy, time, and money, Ultra Stretch jean. We hope that this jean will change the way many tall according to Polygiene. The company will prolong the lifetime of garments, saving women view and wear denim, and ultimately help them to enjoy wearing water by eliminating the need for excessive washing, while the prevention of denim every day," said Helen Latham, from The Lycra Company. The Lycra bacterial growth will stop the premature break down of the fabric. Company innovates and produces fibre and technology solutions for the apparel and hygiene industries, as well as speciality chemicals used in the spandex “We are proud to partner with Tommy Hilfiger, one of the world’s leading designer and polyurethane value chains lifestyle brands. Polygiene addresses the need for sustainably minded fashion. Our partnership with Tommy Hilfiger is based on shared values-innovation, sustainability, and care for the planet’s resources. Polygiene has been focused Lehmann joins Hohenstein team on redefining functionality in apparel, footwear, and home textiles, making it easier for consumers to take responsibility for the environment,” Ulrika Björk, utz Lehmann will join the Hohenstein CEO, Polygiene said Lteam as CEO of Global Strategies. Lehmann’s new role will focus on developing new business and advancing sales strategies in order to strengthen Hohenstein's position as a global player. He will directly oversee Hohenstein’s Sales, Marketing and Business Development teams. “I’m delighted to work with a company that enjoys a high reputation in the textile industry,” Lehmann said. “There’s still so much potential for the entire industry. It’s a wonderful opportunity to contribute my market experience and knowledge and propel Hohenstein even further within the textile testing industry.” For the past eight years Lehmann worked as CEO of Hermes Hansecontrol Group. Prior to Hansecontrol, Lehmann held various roles at TÜV Rheinland and SGS Germany. “Lehmann is an excellent addition to our management team,” Hohenstein Group Owner and CEO Prof. Dr. Stefan Mecheels said. “We’re thrilled for him to bring his experience and connections in the Testing Inspection Certification (TIC) industry to Hohenstein”
16 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 17 Timberland to plant 50 mn Teijin participates in Intertextile trees around the world Shanghai Apparel Fabrics eijin Frontier Co., Ltd., the Teijin TGroup's fibres and products converting company, announced that Nantong Teijin Co., Ltd., the group’s textile manufacturing and sales subsidiary based in Nantong, China, will participate in Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Autumn Edition 2019, one of the world’s biggest and most comprehensive exhibitions of apparel fabric and accessories. The show will be held at the National Exhibition and Convention Center in Shanghai from September 25 to 27. In response F Corporation brand Timberland has announced its ambition to growing demand in China, Nantong Teijin’s booth (5-2H-E60) will showcase proprietary Vto plant 50 mn trees around the world by 2025, as it looks to materials designed mainly for casual wear and sportswear, including lightweight, cool, offset the effects of climate change the world over and inspire ventilated and stretchable materials for jogging pants and shirts. others to take similar restorative action. The outdoor apparel ® firm’s pledge coincides with its global campaign: Nature Needs The displays will also feature eco-friendly materials, including partially bio-derived SOLOTEX , a Heroes – through which it is celebrating 12 proclaimed ‘eco- soft and stretchable polytrimethylene terephthalate fibre, materials using chemically recycled heroes’ and their efforts, to date, to mitigate global warming. polyester, and fluorocarbon-free durable water-repellent materials. Building on its participation in Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics–Autumn Edition 2019, Nantong Teijin looks forward to further “At Timberland, we’re conscious of the impact our modern way of expanding its presence and cultivating new customers in the Chinese market in a variety of sectors life has on the planet. We believe as a global lifestyle brand, and from sports to fashion, and to strengthening its relationships with existing customers as individuals, we have a responsibility to make it better,” Jim Pisani, Timberland’s Global Brand President commented. With this commitment to counteract the ongoing rates at which Chinese investors to get support from deforestation is wiping out landscapes, most prominently within Philippine Govt. the Amazon rainforest, Timberland is partnering with a number of organisations to offset the damage. By collaborating with the eiterating his government’s support to Chinese investors, Philippine President Rodrigo Smallholder Farmers Alliance, Tee Aid, GreenNetwork, the UN RRoa Duterte recently said he has instructed his trade chief to ensure the facilitation of all Convention to Combat Desertification, Connect4Climate, government permits and licenses. The President was addressing the Philippines-China Business Justdiggit, Las Lagunas Ecological Park, Trees for the Future, forum in Beijing recently organised by his department of trade and industry. The delegation Treedom and American Forests, the company is well connected comprised representatives from the Philippine construction industry, the Philippine Chamber in achieving its target within the next 5-6 years. of Commerce and Industry (PCCI), Silk Road, the Federation of Filipino-Chinese Chamber of Commerce and Industry, Inc. (FFCCCII) and the China International Chamber of Commerce for It’s said that the project, in its first year, will prioritise its the Private Sector (CICCPS), according to a report. There will be no corruption and all restorative practices in Haiti, the USA, China, the Dominican investments will be protected in his country, Duterte added Republic, Tanzania and Mali. The brand will also support the Great Green Wall, a movement within Africa which aims to grow a line of trees spanning the width of Africa, in a stance against climate Flame-resistant fabric made out of Coats thread change, and other problematic areas within the continent, such as conflict and migration. “We are thrilled to have Timberland new flame and heat resistant protective fabric is amongst the first products to be borne join the Great Green Wall movement – an emerging new world Aout of thread manufacturer Coats new Innovation Hubs. Being showcased at National wonder that promises to grow hope for millions of people in the Safety Council Congress & Expo in San Diego, California, the new product is said to complement face of the 21st century’s most urgent challenges,” Ibrahim Thiaw, Coats’ existing range of flame-resistant sewing threads. Executive Secretary of the United Nations Convention to Combat After Coats opened three dedicated R&D Desertification, concluded Innovation Hubs in North Carolina, USA; Shenzhen, China; and Bursa, Turkey, the company has announced that its latest AATCC and SGIA announce product available on the market was brought presentations for Digital from conceptualisation to commer- cialisation in the series of hubs. Its new Textile Printing Conference 4.0 FlamePro Splash Protect is said to be durable, lightweight and have a feel ATCC and SGIA have partnered to offer the Digital Textile resembling satin. Ultimately, though, the Printing Conference 4.0, a two-day event that will provide A fabric’s ability to withstand temperatures registrants with a wealth of understanding and inspiration. Explore of up to 760°C is what will endear itself to workers spanning industrial sectors. the key trends and technological developments that are accelerating the digitally-printed textile market. Coats believes the fabric would be a perfect fit for aluminium, iron and steel workers due to the protection it offers. “FlamePro Splash Protect is a ground-breaking product for us which offers The program will feature the industry’s best-known and most- comfort, protection and complements our existing range of flame-resistant sewing threads,” respected experts presenting topics essential for those involved said Richard Ridewood, Head Of Group Innovation at Coats. in digitally-printed textiles. Some of the biggest names in the industry are included in the programming, covering topics on the “Coats is committed to developing innovative new products to help address the safety and newest digital textile ink and printing technology developments, performance requirements of the personal protection sector.” Coats and its new FlamePro key market drivers, global market conditions, colour management Splash Protect product can be found at the NSC Congress and Expo until the 12th September. and workflow developments, design software, digital It can also be found at CAMX from 24-25th September, in Anaheim, California, and the IFAI manufacturing and integration, and more! Expo from 1-4 October in Orlando, Florida
18 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 19 Andhra textile clusters to meet global standards delegation of global Abrands and sourcing companies affiliated to the American Chamber of Com- merce (AMCHAM) visited the Brandix India Apparel City in Visakhapatnam recently under the aegis of the A.P. Economic Development Board (APEDB), according to EDB Associate Director Aditya Nagarajan. On the occasion, Bhavna Saxena, Special Commissioner of the EDB, said Andhra Pradesh’s integrated textile clusters were in compliance with global standards of sustainability, and the impetus on policies, skill development, research and exports through port-led development made the State a valued partner for coun- tries seeking sourcing and investment opportunities in India. Saxena pointed out that the textiles sector offered significant employment opportunities, and it was the second largest employer after agriculture and that A.P. had one of the most liberal policies that were conducive to textiles Govt. to clear pending TUFS and apparel sector in the country. A.P. Director of Handlooms and Textiles Himanshu Shukla said the Brandix facility manufactured apparel for global applications brands. The new textile policy laid emphasis on attracting investments of ndian Textile Secretary over `15,000 cr and creating 2.50 lakh jobs. The delegation comprised senior IRavi Kumar has assured executives of Carter’s Inc, Ralph Lauren Asia Pacific, Gap Inc, PVH Corp and power loom industry stake- other sourcing companies holders that pending appli- cations for Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme Emission Trading Scheme (TUFS) would be cleared within two months. About launched in Surat 6,000 applications from irect air emissions from more than 150 textile dyeing and printing facilities Surat are pending under in an Indian city are to be measured in a new pilot project aimed at tackling ` D the scheme for the last two years due to technical reasons. About 800 cr is pollution. The Emission Trading Scheme, being launched in the industrial city of stuck under TUFS for long. At a recent stakeholder meeting in Ahmedabad, Surat where textile and dye factories are a major source of air pollution, is the Kumar met representatives of the Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and first of its kind in India and could be extended nationally if it proves effective. Industry (SGCCI), Federation of Gujarat Weavers’ Association (FOGWA) and Continuous emission monitoring system (CEMS) devices have been installed at Federation of Indian Art Silk Weaving Industry (FIASWI), according to a report. factories to measure the amount of PM10 particles, often described as coarse The clearance of the subsidy amount will boost modernisation in the textile particles, being emitted. sector in Surat, said SGCCI President Ketan Desai. Surat has lead over other clusters in Gujarat when it comes to taking benefits under TUFS scheme Any which breach an emis- sion cap of 150 milligrams of PM10 particles per cu- Govt. assures to resolve Tirupur bic metre will have to buy extra capacity from facto- Knitwear related issues ries which have not reached the limit. The aim is to en- aja M Shanmugham, Presi- sure that factories across R dent, Tiruppur Exporters As- the sector in the city, in the sociation said he attended the North-Western State of meeting called by Ravi Kapoor Gujurat, stay within the limit IAS, Textile Secretary to dis- by trading permits. Although factories can buy and sell permits among them- cuss on the implementation selves, the total quantity of permits are fixed, ensuring that air pollution stan- modalities, course design, dards are met. scope and breadth of the up- skilling component under Sa- It is expected to reduce air pollution at a low cost to both the government and marth Scheme to focus on im- industry, as well as pave the way for similar trading schemes. The emission proving the overall productivity by benchmarking with industry best practices trading scheme was initiated by the national and State Governments in in New Delhi on 02nd September 2019. partnership with the Ministry of Environment, Forest and Climate Change. Shanmugham said after discussing on the skill related procedures, he appealed Parag Dave, Regional Officer for the Gujurat Pollution Control Board, told: “This is for early reimbursement of ROSL and RoSCTL pending claims, ATUFs and previous a first-of-its-kind pilot project in India. Depending on its success, this project MTUFs, RTUFs and RRTUFs subsidy to meet the exporting units financial will be replicated in other parts of the state and country.” requirements. He also advocated for removal of the concerned genuine exporting Air pollution contributed to the deaths of at least 1.2 mn Indians in 2017 - and the units from Risky Exporters category and help them to continue to receive concentration of particulate matter is said to be eight times the level of World drawback and IGST Claims. Raja M Shanmugham appreciated the Textile Health Organisation standards. Pollution control authorities in Surat have been Secretary for his patient hearing, assurance to address the issues and help for working on the impact of emissions trading, with researchers at the University the growth of Tirupur Knitwear exporting units of Chicago and Harvard University, since 2011
20 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 AmCham delegation suggests Next India ITME to be held in India-US FTA December 2020 S apparel firms, in search of more he eleventh edition of India ITME 2020 will be held in India Exposition Mart Ltd, Uinvestment opportunities in India TNoida, from December 10-15, 2020. The total number of halls will be 15 with a due to the US-China trade war, want total area of 2,35,000 sqm, making it the largest in this industry segment. The a free trade agreement (FTA) between event is expected to host more than 1800 exhibitors in 21 chapters and have over both sides. Representatives from 15 1,50,000 visitors over 6 days period. US companies met Indian Textiles The main objectives of the Minister Smriti Irani recently and event are a)To develop India suggested improving ease of doing as a textile and textile engi- business, said Tara Joseph, President neering sourcing destination of American Chamber of Commerce b)To encourage investment in (AmCham) Hong Kong. According to India for textile machinery Joseph, an FTA between the United manufacturing and thus sup- States and India would promote port Government initiative to business in the textiles sector. The team also suggested Irani for providing develop India ‘as a manufac- higher skills to workers and drawing up a sustainable growth plan for the turing hub’ for textile engineer- apparel sector, according to a report. ing). To encourage new market development to generate new custom lead from “We are at an inflexion point. Manufacturing is moving away from China. 2nd tire and rural markets for the manufacturers d)To facilitate connect to agents, There is a window of opportunity for India to attract investments in dealers, distributors for overseas market as well as the domestic market for the manufacturing. However, there is a lot of competition from countries like manufacturers e)To facilitate joint ventures and technology transfer f)To promote/ Bangladesh, Vietnam and Indonesia, and and India needs to do all it can to support the growth of textile Industry in India through new technologies along increase its relevance,” Joseph said. with Ancillary and Allied Industries & Trade. In the last four years, investments worth $30 bn in textiles had moved out of India ITME 2020 will offer unmatched business to the exhibitors as the Indian China because of various factors including rising input costs, but very little textiles industry is set for strong growth, buoyed by strong domestic consumption had come to India, Gautam Nair, of the Confederation of Indian Industry (CII) as well as export demand. It will open windows to various business verticals in Textiles Task Force said. The delegation, which had representatives from US form of leads, contacts enquiries on a massive platform. companies like Ralph Lauren, the PVH Group and Carter’s Inc, also discussed Participation from 91 countries and 21 chapters, will make India ITME 2020 a one business possibilities with Niti Aayog Chief Executive Officer Amitabh Kant stop platform for the engineering solutions and technical technology for textile and met the faculty of the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) to industry, servicing the whole of Indian textile industry and building India brand exchange ideas on the latest trends in design
APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 21 Indian customers India to take share of MSME exports to 50 percent prioritizing ndia has decided to take the share of Iexports by micro, small and medium sustainable fashion enterprises (MSMEs) to 50 per cent and raise the sector’s gross domestic product (GDP) contribution from 29 per cent to 50 per cent in the next five years, according to Minister for MSME Nitin Gadkari, who recently said 5 cr jobs will be created in five years in the sector. The Minister was addressing a business summit titled ‘Globalizing the Brand Khadi: The Pride of India’, organised by the Confederation of Indian Industry (CII) in Mumbai, according to a Ministry report. Calling upon enterprising new YouGov survey of Indian consumers indicates people in the private sector to come forward to promote khadi, he said the khadi sector needs to be Athat while a large majority of shoppers consider strengthened and its turnover needs to be raised further. the sustainable manufacture of garments as a high priority, the material quality, fit, design and price have He also launched Tech Saksham, a CII Tech Project, aimed at accelerating MSME growth through controlling influence over product purchase. In what technology enablement. CII Tech-Saksham for MSMEs, a MSME Ministry-CII project, brings together supports a recent in River report, YouGov’s findings technology majors Dell Technologies India, HP India, Intel India, Vodafone Idea Ltd, WhatsApp India and recommend that fashion brands introduce more stylish, Yes Bank to address technological gaps faced by MSMEs in their growth sustainable ranges if they’re to tilt the balance, offer more competitive prices for sustainable fashion items and, via labelling, highlight the sustainability credentials Cotton Corporation of India to enter Punjab of pieces with greater clarity. ith speculation that private players may not show enthusiasm in purchasing cotton, Central More than 1.3 bn people populate the South Asian WGovernment agency Cotton Corporation of India Limited (CCI has started preparations to enter the nation of India, and so swaying its consumer base – market in Punjab after four years. It expects the quality of raw cotton to be reasonably good to make which with income increases and the emergence of procurement at the minimum support price (MSP). Initially, weak international demand and higher foreign brands represents a burgeoning market – could support price of cotton in India has made ginners and textile sector reluctant to buy cotton this season. provide a significant boost to the efforts of persevering brands and retailers working to become more The Union government had announced the MSP of long staple (27.5-28.5mm) cotton, commonly grown ` sustainable. The new YouGov survey, which picked the in Punjab, at 5,450 per quintal for 2019-20. After facing inclement weather in July, cotton crop is brains of more than 1,000 Indian consumers, has progressing well and growers feel if no more rains lash the region in the coming days the crop is uncovered promising statistics about the appetite of expected to remain good and they may get a yield of nearly 770kg of lint per hectare. shoppers for sustainable fashion – with 83 per cent Raw cotton arrivals have been reported in small quantities in some mandis in the last two days and have saying they consider sustainable manufacturing a high fetched rates above the MSP. Market analysts said these were expected to come down when arrivals go priority. Though somewhat marred given that it ranked up in the coming weeks. fifth of six factors, only ahead of ‘brand’ in a list which comprised factors such as material quality, fit, design Area under cotton in Punjab in the 2019-20 and price; the figures are indicative of greater appetite crop year is estimated to be around 4 lakh for sustainable fashion. hectares, up from the provisional figures of 2.84 lakh hectares in the last season. It seems greater engagement and education on the According to the Punjab Agriculture matter is also needed and would benefit consumers; Department Data, the estimated output of raw 40 per cent of which said they do not know much cotton in 2018-19 was 12.22 lakh bales while about it. This while around a fifth (19 per cent) say the CCI had put the figures at 11.50 lakh bales. they’re aware of sustainable fashion alternatives but The CCI is ready to enter the market to procure have never bought an item, and only 12 per cent have cotton directly from farmers without any bought a product that claims to be sustainably-made middlemen. Last time, the central agency had in the past. Nevertheless, 84 per cent indicate that done the procurement in 2014-15. they’re interested in buying sustainable fashion items, a figure which could increase if consumer feedback is The CCI will have to settle issues with the taken on-board. strong lobby of arhtiyas in Punjab, who are opposed to direct procurement. The agency has already floated tenders for labour, godowns, transport and ginning. There are 61 ginning factories in Punjab. Till According to those surveyed, 64 per cent would be Wednesday, the CCI had got the consent from 32 ginning factories for purchases. more inclined to buy a sustainable fashion item if the designs and ranges were more fashionable, or to their CCI’s Bathinda branch manager Neeraj Bhankhar said that, “We are fully prepared to make purchases taste. A majority of 58 and 56 per cent of people say directly from farmers from the first week of October. Tenders for various services related to cotton more competitive prices, and the inclusion of labels purchase have been floated. Everything is expected to be in place before the start of the season in which outline the sustainability credentials of an item, October.” On the other hand, Federation of Arhtiyas Association Punjab president Vijay Kalra said that, respectively, would incentivize them to purchase. “We are sticking to our demand of purchases to be made through commission agents. Our fingers are crossed and we are waiting to see how things unfold.” Ideas of less interest to consumers is that of brands communicating the benefits and impacts of sustainably- Trade body Indian Cotton Association Limited president Mahesh Sharda said the increase of 27 made products (41 per cent), and offering reward points percent in the MSP of cotton in 2018- 19 as compared to the previous year proved dear to the textile for buying these alternatives (41 per cent). Finally, if a industry. “Now, cotton in the international market is cheaper than in India, which is making our celebrity of social media influencer endorsed a textiles industry uncompetitive. In such a scenario, private players may avoid making bulk purchases sustainably-made garment, only 23 per cent of in the domestic market,” he said respondents would be encouraged to invest
22 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 23 New reactive dyes by Shree Pushkar
hree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd class dyes are made through a completely sustainable manufacturing methodology S (SPCFL), a leading speciality chemical of zero-waste and compliant with the highest level of global environmental manufacturing company from India, has launched standards. They are suitable to be used for cotton fibre, yarn, knitted and woven its new range of reactive dyes for the textile fabrics dyeing and all types of shades. industry in Bangladesh under the brand name of “With a successful rejoinder from Indian market we have now launched our new Dyecol. Shree Pushkar is now launching additional range of reactive dyes for Bangladesh market which is a high salt solubility product. shades for the Bangladesh market which is going Our foray into dyes manufacturing is a step towards forward integration and to strengthen its presence in Bangladesh. provide value added products to our customers which will enhance our revenues Bangladesh Textile colourants dominates the going forward. The dyes are in highly concentrated and are in crude form, it is also chemicals market owing to their property of salt free reactive dyes. Our entire range of dyes is GOTS certified, we are a ZDHC imparting aesthetic value and appearance to the contributor a Bluesign System Partner. Bangladesh, the second leading textile finished textile products. Dhaka is the largest demand generating region for textile and apparel exporter worldwide, is witnessing a high growth in textile and apparel chemicals in Bangladesh, backed by the presence of large number of textile mills sector. Moreover, exemption from export duties, favourable governmental policies in the region. and availability of labour attracts foreign investors towards the country’s textile sector, which in turn is catalysing the demand for textile chemicals. Our major The new range of reactive dyes are available in a wide variety such as royal blue exporting countries are Europe, China & Bangladesh. As we are going for huge and turquoise blue series; black series, Celf reactive dyes, Ceft & RR reactive capacity expansion, we have begun looking for new markets for dyes and dye dyes, DR reactive dyes and SS reactive dyes. These dyes are available in the intermediates. We are looking at South America and Turkey as we believe there complete range of colours and trichromy, said SPCFL in a report. The entire ranges are huge potential for our products,” said Punit Makharia, Chairman & Managing of reactive dyes are formulated efficiently and are flexible to suit a wide range of Director of Shree Pushkar Chemicals and Fertilisers Ltd. applications. These dyes come with unique features like good wet-rub, robustness and all-round fastness properties; extraordinary colour value and easy wash-off; Shree Pushkar Chemicals and Fertilisers is an integrated speciality chemicals unmatchable lab to bulk and bulk to bulk reproducibility; high tinctorial value; manufacturing company, dealing in the entire range of textile and speciality fluorine chemistry to support high light fastness; shade continuity in longer lengths; chemicals. The company is one of the leading producers of dye intermediaries and less shading, less diluent contributing to less effluent; suitable for room temperature dyestuff in India, with the widest range of dye intermediaries offering. The company dyeing (40°C to 60°C). manufactures dyes under the brand Dyecol, which is getting acceptance in Indian textile industries. It is a zero-waste chemical company with a unique business Dyecol is water and energy efficient product with high salt solubility and excellent model that is completely forward and backward integrated compatibility. This results in significant decrease in processing costs. The world
Ashwin Chandran becomes new Water repellent and strain SIMA Chairman resistant clothing range by shwin Chandran, Chairman and Managing Director of Coimbatore-based Precot Easies by Killer AMeridien Limited, has been elected as the new Chairman of The Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA) for the year 2019-20. Ravi Sam and SK asies by Killer, a brand name that is Sundararaman were elected as Deputy Chairman and Vice Chairman respectively Esynonymous with innovative styles at the 60th annual general meeting of SIMA held recently. and design, has recently launched a new range of formal and casual clothing for Chandran studied B.Sc. (Hons) in textile men which is both water repellent and technology at the University of Manchester strain resistant. The latest launch features Institute of Science and Technology (UMIST), an exclusive in their Spring Summer UK. He also has an MBA from the University (SS)’20 collection for their brand Easies, of Illinois in the US. He is currently a member which was launched recently along with of The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion their other brands collection namely, Council (TEXPROCIL), Mumbai, and the Killer, LawmanPg3, Integriti and Desi Belle. Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI), New Delhi. The new range has got good response, as most of clothing that is available is Sam, Managing Director of Adwaith Textiles usually prone to strain either during work Private Limited, Coimbatore, is a commerce or travel or otherwise and there is no graduate and holds post-graduate diploma way to get rid of it easily, additionally it in textile technology from UMIST. He is a founder trustee of Siruthuli, the movement also helps conserve water as there are less chances of soiling one’s clothes. of preservation of water bodies in Coimbatore. He is involved in various social The collection is smart formals for young professionals. The collection uses welfare activities. He was the chairman of CII Tamil Nadu and at present he a range of smart styles and colours which are super comfortable to fit in and severs as the Chairman of CII SR sub-committee on Sustainability, CSR & let you breathe easily. Affirmative Action to bring inclusiveness to the marginalised sectors of the society Upbeat about the launch of their new SS’20 collection, Kewalchand P Jain, covering all the six Southern States. Chairman and Managing Director said, “It is an extremely proud moment for Sundararaman, Managing Director of Shiva Texyarn Limited, Dindigul, holds an us as a brand to have come so far and offer innovative solutions keeping in MBBS degree and masters in business management from Cambridge University, mind the Indian consumers’ daily needs and expectation from their clothing UK. He is well-known in the field of technical textiles in India and also in the brand. We have gained immense trust over past three decades from our field of technical education. He is the managing trustee of the Firebird Institute consumers who have trusted it and this is yet another leap forward by an of Research in Management. He has been a member in various business forums Indian brand. We at KKCL believe in constantly doing better by coming up with at a national level. He is the past Chairman of CII, Coimbatore, and educational new ideas and trends that will offer a new taste to our experimental customer. convenor CII, Tamil Nadu. Currently, he is the Chairman of Indian Technical We are the only mainstream denim jeans brand which has launched water Textile Association repellent and strain resistant range”
24 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 Leading brands irresponsibly sourcing from India op fashion firms pledging to end worker exploitation “Brands can’t have it both ways. They are demanding Tin their supply chains are hampering progress ethical labour practices and living wages from through irresponsible sourcing practices, according suppliers, but they aren’t paying enough or changing to a report by the Universities of Sheffield and Bath their business models to make these possible. It’s and Royal Holloway under the University of London. crucial that these companies recognise the impact It found major brands impose short production of their requests for cheap, fast fashion on the people windows, cost pressures and constant order who make their clothes,” LeBaron said. fluctuations. These make it difficult for local suppliers Andrew Crane, co-author and professor of business to comply with the standards of working conditions and society at the University of Bath’s School of that companies including Nike, H&M, Adidas, Primark Management, said: “When we interviewed and Walmart expect. cheated by suppliers to retain business with brands. manufacturers who supply knitwear to major global The report, ‘Decent Work and Economic Growth in Suppliers complain that such ethical certification brands they explained that brands are growing louder the Southern Indian Garment Industry,’ is part of the systems are too costly and add little value. in their demands for an end to bad labour practices British Academy’s international programme, but they are unwilling to alter their commercial Interviews with more than 135 business leaders, Tackling Slavery, Human Trafficking and Child Labour practices to support improvements.” workers, NGOs, unions and government agencies in in Modern Business, funded by the British Academy the State of Tamil Nadu during 2018 uncovered “Brands need to ensure that local businesses are in partnership with the UK Department for considerable evidence that while top-down initiatives supported in their efforts to pursue decent work, and International Development. from brands have led to some improvements in are not, as is all too often the case, squeezed by buyer The report focused on the garment industry clustered working conditions, they have failed to eradicate demands that push them towards more exploitative around Tiruppur in Tamil Nadu State, which accounts labour exploitation. practices,” he said. for 45-50 per cent (around $3.6 bn in 2017) of all Professor Genevieve LeBaron, co-author of the report The researchers are calling for the formation of a new knitwear exports from India. Suppliers in the region and Professor of Politics at the University of Sheffield, taskforce in Tiruppur to solve the labour issues facing have improved their working conditions over the past said: “Workers told us about extensive and shocking the industry, led by an independent organisation or decade. However, heightened competition from lower- violations of their rights, including routine disregard chair. They highlight three key issues to achieve cost countries like Bangladesh and Ethiopia has meant for health and safety standards, restricted freedom of decent work and economic growth: Freedom of that brands can force prices down, leaving little scope movement and verbal abuse. They also reported movement, health and safety, and worker-driven for further ethical improvements, statements from incidents of child and bonded labour, and told us how social responsibility – and have made 12 the universities said citing the report. they suffered from gender discrimination, unfair pay, recommendations to achieve this The research found that social audits, intended to a lack of contracts, and limited freedom to speak, call out exploitation, are frequently manipulated and among other violations of their rights.”
APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 25 Reliance aims to make affordable Xeros signs deal with ‘sustainable clothing’ Ramsons Garment eliance Industries Ltd, the world’s largest integrated polyester yarn and fibre producer, has announced Finishing Equipment Rthat it has taken a big stride to make ‘sustainable clothing’ affordable and accessible, taking a leaf from the success story of the group’s telecom venture Jio in getting volumes with competitive pricing, a top RIL official said. “For us, sustainability is not a fashionable word, we are making fashion out of it and it is a sustainable business,” said Vipul Shah, Chief Operating Officer of Petrochemicals Division at RIL. “It is time we look at sustainability beyond corporate social responsibility.” RIL, pioneer of recycling of PET bottles in India, is processing over two billion post-consumer (used) PET bottles every year and plans to scale it up to six billion in two years, he said. RIL’s initiative for recycling of used waste PET bottle is a classic example of sustainability and circularity as it is the only company in the world that has created a complete circle from creation of PET Resin for making bottles, collection of eros Technology Group has signed a binding Heads discarded PET bottles, converting them to of Terms agreement with Ramsons Garment Recron Green Gold, eco-friendly polyester fibres X Finishing Equipment Pvt Ltd. Under the agreement, for use by downstream textile value chain that Ramsons will develop, manufacture and sell garment converts the fibres in to high-value sleep finishing equipment used in manufacture of denim products and R|Elan™ based fashion apparel. jeans, which incorporates Xeros’ technology, on an RIL has pursued the collection of used PET bottles and recycling it to fibre in sustainable manner with the exclusive basis across South Asia and Africa early key objective of social responsibility towards the society and nation, for over two decades. The grey fibre next year. The scope of the agreement is to integrate produced using used PET bottles are branded as Recron GreenGold and the dope dyed polyester staple fibre Xeros’ XOrb and XDrum products across Ramsons’ are branded as Recron Green Gold EcoD. This eco-friendly fibre also provides the power of sustainability to range of denim processing machines which are Reliance’s next generation fabric range branded R|Elan Fabric 2.0. produced at drum sizes from 500 ltr to 5,000 ltr. Xeros expects to finalise a commercial agreement Apart from strengthening internal initiatives in sustainability RIL is also working closely with entire textile with Ramsons in Q4 2019 with the garment finishing industry, through its Hub Excellence Programme encompassing yarn, textile manufacturers, leading equipment incorporating Xeros’ technology to be domestic and international brands – retailers and fashion houses. RIL also partners with likeminded available in the market by end of Q1 2020, said leading yarn, textile and apparel manufactures to develop a symbiotic relationship. Global brands are Xeros in a report. making everything from swimwear to winter wear to backpacks with recycled material. India can catch up soon if it looks at its waste as a resource, RIL said The agreement also has potential to incorporate Xeros’ XFiltra technology, which is being scaled up for use in industrial sized machines. “Our agreement Flipkart obtains license for fashion brand Nautica with Ramsons is yet another major milestone in the commercialisation of our technologies under a license lipkart has obtained the license and distribution rights of Nautica, a lifestyle brand owned by US- model, and the first with an OEM in the textiles market, based Authentic Brands Group (ABG), and will manage the brand’s online and offline business in India F said Mark Nichols, CEO of Xeros. The clothing industry through a network of franchise partners. Flipkart will bring its expertise in design, product development is the second largest user of water on the planet, and merchandising to address unique Indian consumer demands. Flipkart will offer Nautica access to over with each litre of water consumed also ending up as 160 mn consumers across Flipkart, Myntra and Jabong, according to Jamie Salter, Founder, Chairman and effluent, often containing unused chemical and Chief Executive of ABG, which owns a portfolio of iconic brands and acquired Nautica in May 2018. ABG’s particulate matter. By incorporating Xeros’ products intention was to grow the brand’s global footprint by expanding into newer geographies and strengthen its in their machines, Ramsons have the capacity to make presence in existing market, according to a report. Flipkart feels fashion is a $100-bn market in India with a significant contribution to extending precious only 6 per cent having been penetrated by the online retail players. The company has formed similar resources throughout South Asia and Africa.” partnerships with other global brands like Mango (offline and online), Esprit and H&M (only online) Ramsons are the largest supplier of garment finishing equipment in South Asia. It has four production facilities Preferential Trade Agreement between India- and 15 service centres across six countries. Xeros Technology Group plc is a platform technology group Iran to be concluded soon that is reinventing water intensive industrial and ndia and Iran can conclude a Preferential Trade commercial processes. Xeros’ patented XOrb I Agreement (PTA) by this year end as very limited formalities technologies significantly reduce the amount of water are to be completed, ambassador of Iran to India Ali Chegeni used in a number of major applications with the said recently. He, however, said the proposed Bilateral Investment remaining water becoming far more efficient in either Protection Agreement (BIPA) will take a little longer as details affixing or removing molecules from substrates such on this front need some more approvals and endorsement. On as fabrics and garments. The result being significant the Double Taxation Avoidance Agreement (DTAA), Chegeni improvements in economic, operational, product and pointed out that this agreement has the approval of sustainability outcomes. The group is applying its Indian Government whereas approval of Iranian side on this technology in the fields of cleaning, tanning and textiles. front is awaited. The ambassador was addressing an interactive session on business opportunities in Iran Xeros’ XDrum technology is used to apply XOrbs in under aegis of the PHD Chamber of Commerce and Industry (PHDCCI) in New Delhi. In the last few years, over world scale commercial and domestic markets and 26 Memoranda of Understanding (MoUs) have been signed between India and Iran to promote trade and has signed multiple agreements to license its economic ties, a PHDCCI report quoted him as saying. The bilateral trade between the two during fiscal 2017- products. XFiltra is Xeros’ in machine filtration 18 reached $17.5 bn, which might go up to $35 bn in the next few years before hitting $50 bn with progressive technology which enables major reductions in the and conclusive trade talks and agreements between both sides at the highest level, he added. Barter trade amount of microfibres being released from washing between both sides should also be encouraged under a different trade mechanism, at least to promote and machines into the marine environment intensify trade ties on commodities in agriculture and pharmaceuticals, he proposed
26 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 27 Raymond’s khadi collection launched in 300 countrywide stores n the year 2018, Khadi by Raymond was launched agriculture, contributing 10 percent to the country’s Icountry-wide in more than 300 company stores, a manufacturing, owing to its labour-intensive nature. move accompanied by a high-decibel marketing The industry is characterised by its robust vertical campaign. The first Khadi store by Raymond was integration in almost all the sub-sectors. started at Kala Ghoda, Mumbai in February 2019. As a flagship business of Raymond Group, its Branded Khadi means handspun and handwoven cloth. In 1918 Textile segment has a dominant position in the Indian Mahatma Gandhi started his movement for Khadi market as a B2C branded player for suiting and shirting as relief programme for the poor masses living in fabrics. The vertical has grown over the years on the India’s villages. back of strong channel partner relationships, some As India is celebrating 150th birth anniversary of lasting more than 50 years, as well as wide distribution Mahatama Gandhi Ji,Charkha Dialogue (Samvad), an reach. annual mega conference dedicated to Gandhian With a strong distribution network that addresses philosophy on rural economy, governance, and robust fabric demand across Tier 1 cities to Tier 6 sustainable development is being organised on which holds major share in the apparel business, towns, the business has consistently launched new October 11, 2019 in New Delhi. Raymond Group, Indian accounting for 43 percent of the total market. Women’s products and services keeping up with the customers’ textile major has created over 3 mn (30 Lakh) work wear contributes almost 36 percent, while kids wear needs and preferences. In FY 2018-19, it witnessed hours of employability for Khadi artisans at 30 percent constitutes 21 percent of the apparel market. The strong growth driven by network expansion supported higher wages in more than 75 clusters across 16 sector is one of the fastest growing markets globally, by growth in institutional and exports category. States during FY 2018-19. supported by a robust demand growth. The textiles and apparel industry constitutes 14 “We created over 3 mn hours of employability for “With world-class product quality and steadily percent of the total exports of the country. India is the Khadi artisans in more than 75 clusters across 16 increasing sourcing capability, we are committed to second largest producer and exporter of textiles after states in India,” said Gautam Hari Singhania, make Khadi a global currency of fashion from India,” China and fourth largest producer and exporter of Chairman and Managing Director in Annual Report said, Sanjay Behl, CEO – Lifestyle Business. “With a apparel after China, Bangladesh and Vietnam. 2018-19. “In a bid to encourage inclusive growth, strong financial performance during FY 18-19 by all Raymond continues to enrich the tailoring ecosystem, our businesses and purposeful strides on strategic The fundamental strength of India’s textile industry is providing a platform for skill development in the milestones, we are making steady progress towards its strong production base with a wide range of fibres textiles and apparel manufacturing industry by rapidly our vision of Raymond Reimagined,” report added. and yarns that include natural fibres like cotton, jute, adding tailoring hubs across the country,’’ Gautam silk and wool; and synthetic and manmade fibres such India’s textiles industry is among the oldest industries Hari Singhania said. as polyester, viscose, nylon and acrylic. The Indian in the country dating back several centuries. It is one apparel industry was worth an estimated $54 bn in Raymond has established a Greenfield linen of the largest contributors to the economy accounting 2018 and projected to reach $118 bn in 2028 growing manufacturing plant of Amravati during the year. for 4 percent of the GDP. It is the second largest at CAGR of 8 percent over 2018-28 period India’s apparel market is majorly driven by menswear, contributor towards employment generation, after
Indian FM meets textile sector Negative growth in exports show representatives in Chennai worsening global economic conditions ndian Finance Minister Nirmala Sitharaman met representatives eacting to the sliding merchandise Iof the textile industry in Chennai recently and discussed measures Rexports growth of -6.05 percent of needed to revive the sector. A common demand of the industry $26.13 bn during August, 2019, FIEO was structural changes in the man-made fibre (MMF) sector, President, Sharad Kumar Saraf said that according to Prabhu Dhamodharan, Convenor of Indian Texpreneurs such a contraction in exports is a reflection Federation (ITF), who took part in the meeting. of uncertainties, sluggish global demand and rising tariff war. The softening of crude, The need to remove anti-dumping duty on MMF and rationalising goods steel and other commodities prices also and services tax (GST) for this segment was conveyed to the Minister, pulled down exports. FIEO Chief is of the according to a reports. While India is competitive in the international view that US-China Trade war, BREXIT and market for several cotton products, it is not so for MMF products. developments in Iran further aggravated the problem of the world economy. The uncertainty Another demand placed by the industry was extension of Rebate of attached has also affected the flow of investment and added to currency volatility. State and Central Taxes and Levies (ROSCTL) schemes—now available to garments and made-ups—to yarn and fabric as well. Only 8 out of 30 major product groups were in positive territory during August 2019 including electronic goods, iron-ore, ceramic products & glassware, mica, coal & other ores, minerals The ITF also urged the government to come out with a system to including processed minerals, marine products, cashew, species and tea. Rest all major bring multinational brands to the manufacturing clusters and engage sector of exports including almost all labour-intensive sector of exports besides petroleum them directly with the suppliers. That will help reduce imports, were in the negative showing such a decelerating trend. The slowdown in chemical and Dhamodharan said. The industry also demanded multi-skilling plastics exports are particularly worrisome as we were growing in these sectors. facilities in Tiruppur. The Minister urged the industry to be prepared to face phasing out of schemes not compatible with the World However imports of $39.58 bn during the month have come as a respite for the economy Trade Organisation. showing a decline of -13.45 percent. Such a de-growth in imports has come after August 2016-17. However, profile of imports would suggest whether it has any bearing with domestic The Open-end Spinning Mills’ Association said that because of the slowdown. Saraf said that domestic issues including access to credit, cost of credit especially China-US trade war, the export of nearly 200 containers of open end for merchant exporters, interest equalization support to all agri exports, benefits on sales to yarn to China has stopped in the last five months. There are raw foreign tourists and quick refund of GST specially ITC refund should be seriously looked into. material challenges for open-end spinners as well. The GST on Further WTO complaint schemes addressing cost disabilities of our economy should be recycled PET polyester fibre should be reduced to 12 per cent from immediately deliberated and drafted so as to replace some export promotion instruments to 18 per cent, the industry suggested give a much needed boost to the exports sector
28 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 29 To boost yarn exports restore back incentives
he Indian Spinning sector is on the throes of a big Tcrisis. It is dogged by excess spindelage capacity Cotton yarn contributes significantly which remains unutilised leading to losses. This is to India’s exports basket with because the domestic demand and export outlets are not supportive to absorts the excess capacity in $3.80 bn (estimated value) in the industry. Thus over the last decade the exportable 2018-19, about 10.55 per cent of surplus of cotton yarn has increased to about 27 per the total textiles and apparel cent in 2017-18 as per the latest official data. exports during the same year. How to siphon off the surplus? The way out is exports. India also faces challenges in the For that, the industry needs incentives which were global market vis-à-vis competing withdrawn after 2013-14. It is clearly struggling S.VENKITACHALAM despite having the world’s largest spinning countries. Indian yarn exports are is a senior economic infrastructure and the capability to produce the fine subject to a 4 per cent duty in the quality yarn in the world. The withdrawal of incentives European Union (EU), while journalist with more has meant a substantial decline in exports between Vietnam and Indonasia levy a 3.2 than 40 years of 2013-14 and 2017-18 at a CAGR of 4.4 percent. Prior that exports increased at a CAGR quantitative of 22 per cent tariff. Least – developed experience, covering percent during 2009-2010 to 2103-14. countries get duty free access. Industry, Commerce & In value times, exports declined by 25 percent from Textile Ministries. In this @4570 mn in 2013-14 to $3443 mn in 2017-18 because of disadvantages faced by Indian exporters power subsidy surcharge, direct subsidy to cotton article the author in the global market. China, the largest importer of farmers, formulation of industry- favourable free trade discusses how to boost Indian yarn, has shifted to Vietnam or Indonesia where agreements as well. Other WTO compliant export incentives to cotton yarn and fabrics to create a level yarn exports by restoring it has duty free access, while Indian yarn attracts a 3.5 per cent duty. The other major export distination plying field for Indian exporters are also called for. back incentives. are Bangladesh, Pakistan, Egypt, Portugal and Korea. For most spinning mills, margin levels have dropped On the other land, exports from Vietnam and Indonesia significantly in the last few years compared to have increased at a remarkable rate of 129 percent movement in revenue. On an average spinning mills and 55 percent respectively in the same period. revenue has increased at a CAGR of two per cent in Cotton yarn contributes significantly to India’s exports the last five years. However, earnings before interest, basket with $3.80 bn (estimated value) in 2018-19, taxes, depreciation and amortization margin has about 10.55 per cent of the total textiles and apparel declined at a CAGR of more than 8 per cent, says CITI exports during the same year. India also faces Economic desk. challenges in the global market vis-à-vis competing Further, the gap between change in the cotton prices countries. Indian yarn exports are subject to a 4 per and yarn prices have declined after 2014 which cent duty in the European Union (EU), while Vietnam however marginally improved in 2018. Yarn prices do and Indonasia levy a 3.2 per cent tariff. Least – not increase in the same lines as cotton as demand developed countries get duty free access. for yarn is always over shadowed by higher supply. The spinning sector also suffers from low cotton yield, This gap has meant a raise in the working capital for contamination, high moisture content and increasing the mills and decrease in their margins. An increase cotton prices during the loan cotton supply season. in the global cotton prices leads to an increase in Besides, there is a decline in the margins of the Indian prices also, but a decline in the world cotton spinning industry due to price gap of cotton yarn over prices is not noticed in India due to high minimum cotton, high manufacturing cost due to high interest support price (MSD) of cotton. rate and power tariff, pending TUFs claims, says CITI As is known, the manufacturing cost of cotton textiles economic desk. in India is comparatively higher than that in The CITI desk suggests that the entire cotton textiles Bangledesh and Vietnam. The power cost in India is and apparel value chain needs concerted efforts by US cents 10-12 per cent Kwh While it is US cents 9- all stake holders for its substainability and growth. 12per Kwh in Bangladesh and US cents 8 per Kwh in Cotton yarn and fabrics should be covered under the Vietnam. In India the interest rate is 12-13 per cent. scheme for Rebate Of State and Central Levies Which it is 6-7 per cent in Vietnam, 10-12 per cent in (ROSCTL) so as to take care of embedded taxes and Turkey and 5-6 per cent in China. impart competiveness to the spinning industry. As has been reported in these columns earlier, many With surplus production many spinning mills are spinning mills have already turned non performing working six days a week or working at 70 to 80 per assets (NPAS), following the stringent norms adopted cent capacity utilisation only, one of the lowest in the by RBI. If the current situation continues many more history of 40 years. There is also need for extension of mills may follow suit soon. the three per cent interest equalisation scheme to An RBI financial stability report (June 2018) shows textiles and apparel sector, exemption from cross that the textile sector was amongest the top stressed
30 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 credit risk industries in the economy. Though its share in total advances of the banking sector is small as compared to infrastructure, the textile industry also exhibits considerable transmission to the banking sector. In addition, the large amounts of reimbursement of funds under TUFS remain pending for a number of claims which is creating financial stress on the industry. Further more, the government needs to formulate Free Trade Agreements (FTAs) that are industry favourable. The FTAs signed so for are not at par with our competitors as a result of which Indian exporters have to pay heavy duty on their exports making them uncompetitive. The process of concluding FTAs with major markets like the EU, the US and new markets like Australia, Russia etc should be expedited. Efforts should also be made for negotiations with China for reducing import duty on cotton yarn. China is the largest importer of cotton yarn and is also India’s largest export distination for this product. Source: Ministry of Textiles, India and Open govt. Data Platform of India With excess capacity in the spinning sector there is no need for setting up new Note: Spindles capacity includes for both Cotton/Man-Made Fibre Textiles Mills units. Therefore, no incentives should be given for the purpose for the next 3 years as that drives existing ones into bankruptcy / non productive assets. The Gujarat Government has taken the lead by not allowing to set up new units and other States must follow suit, except for moderisation of existing capacity. Next is moderisation of spinning machinery. There are around 15 mn spindles that are 15 years old. In the normal course the machineries need replacement in 7-8 years to produce quality yarn with higher levels of efficiency and productivity. The continuous increase in Minimum Support Price (MSP) for cotton is a matter of concern for the spinning industry. MSP was increased in 2018-19 by more than 28 per cent and 26 per cent for medium staple and long staple cotton on a year to year basis respectively. With the declining margins of the industry, direct subsidies may be provided to cotton farmers. This will ensure reasonable cotton prices for the industry. The spinning sector operated 24x7 and draw power at a constant load (925 to 950 units per hour for every MW) while engineering and other sectors may function (only during day and evening time and draw power only) 350 to 500 units per hour for every MW. As the electricity bill is based on the energy consumed, the textile Source: ITC TradeMap and IndiaStat.com industry deserves to have a lower tariff
APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 31 GTE'20 New Delhi - the Biggest ever show
he biggest Industry show in the subcontinent, GTE- Garment Technology Expo T2020 New Delhi stands at the threshold of its 30th edition, which will be held from January 10-13, 2020 at NSIC Exhibition Complex, Okhla, New Delhi. This is South Asia's most comprehensive garment technology expo showcasing anything and everything related to garmenting under the sun. GTE New Delhi International is considered the best launchpad for introducing innovations, technology upgrades, new materials, processes and services. For the last 20 years, the show has offered the garment manufacturers in India and the neighbouring countries, an opportunity to get acquainted with the latest world trends and upgrade manufacturing processes by adopting the latest technologies in vogue. This assists the Indian apparel manufacturer to maintain and produce world class high quality products and to compete with countries like China, Inderjit Singh Sahni Bangladesh, Vietnam, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, etc. "In the year 2001, we started GTE. GTE has always been my father Mr. Inderjit GTE covers all segments of the industry, right from the latest technology machines Singh Sahni's dream and the journey during these 20 years has been incredible. to machine spares & consumables, from infrastructure set up to latest processes We witnessed lots of ups and down and now we have been accepted as an & systems, from raw materials to trimmings & embellishments, from logistics & International exhibition for the garment Industry in India. I would like to humbly packing solutions to trade communication and documentation services. The show thank this industry for being with us for these two decades. Without their support attracts latest overseas developments and processes and is home to technology and cooperation, this could not have been possible,” says Ricky Sahni, Joint from over 20 countries. Serving the aspirations of the trade countrywide, the Managing Director, Garment Technology Expo. flagship mother event is held in New Delhi annually while the Southern and Western region shows in Bengaluru and Ahmedabad are held bi- annually. Building up on the growth of each successive edition, GTE 2019 New Delhi brought together 350 exhibitors, B2B companies and brands and an all-time high visitor This strategically structured industry platform has seen a progressive growth and turnout of 26,250, during the four days visitors to a conducive business environment patronage and rated as the most comprehensive show of the sector. Tried tested at NSIC, New Delhi. The 2020 edition of GTE is expected to take this forward by and trusted for living upto it's moto "Best today, still better tomorrow,” GTE is sought attracting 27,500 visitors and 400 exhibitors. after by trade professionals, comprising of manufacturers, exporters CEO's, MDs and Production heads, besides Institutions and other volume consumers who visit "The 30th edition of GTE will be organised at NSIC Complex in Okhla as always, which to see compare and negotiate deals for new machinery. Designers, technical is the most preferred venue due to its unmatched connectivity with garmenting hubs supervisor, shop floor managers, etc., visit to update themselves on new technologies, of Okhla, Noida, Faridabad, Gurugram, Gandhinagar, Bhawana, Kundali, Ghaziabad and latest product launches and new innovations. many other places. This edition will have bigger participation with lots of new product launches from Indian and international companies with better improved structures. The various garment manufacturing technologies covered by the show are: CAD/ The total exhibition area will be increased by almost 10 percent and will cover 1,75,000 CAM, spreading & cutting machines, sewing machines, laundry machines, garment sq ft area. Besides, special Chinese and Taiwanese pavilions will be the major highlights dyeing machines, finishing equipment, fusing machines, embroidery machines, of the show," says Ambrish Chopra, Director, Garment Technology Expo. This is the printing, packaging machines, quilting machines, knitting machines, software only show in the sub-continent which attracts more than 20 countries and 350 to solutions, spares & attachments, accessories & trims, testing equipment, dyes & 400 participating companies and brands. All the world's stalwarts are present here chemicals, fabrics, fancy yarns, support services, etc to showcase their latest developments. Good Fashion Fund launches supply chain innovation
he Good Fashion Fund launches, spearheading industry being a true force for good. Innovation is Asia.” Currently, apparel supply chains are plagued Tsystemic change in the apparel and footwear critically needed. And yet, without sufficient funding, by their negative environmental and social impacts. supply chain by investing in the implementation of many innovations are unable to scale. We are therefore But while sustainable solutions do exist today, there innovative technologies in India, Bangladesh and proud to be an anchor investor in the Good Fashion is a lack of capital available to scale these Vietnam. Initiated by Fashion for Good, the Fund is Fund which - with its high risk appetite and focus on technologies within the supply chain. The Fund was collaboration between C&A Foundation, Hong Kong getting innovations into the supply chain - will address created to address this gap – connecting the most based The Mills Fabrica and FOUNT. The Good Fashion this finance gap.” promising technologies to the industry to Fund will be officially announced at the Hong Kong collaboratively tackle its challenges. Good Fashion Fund envisions delivering economic Fashion Summit by C&A Foundation Board Director growth as well as good fashion practice by Katrin Ley, Managing Director Fashion for Good says, Albert Brenninkmeijer and Fund Director Bob encouraging manufacturers in the apparel supply chain “Disruptive innovation is needed to shift the fashion Assenberg on the 5th of September. to invest in innovations that cater to the same. industry from a model of ‘take-make-waste’ towards Focussed on driving the implementation of innovative Bearing in mind the environment, GFF seeks mobilising a more circular and regenerative system. While the solutions in the fashion industry, Good Fashion Fund the use of safe and recyclable materials, clean and technology exists today to move forward towards is the first of its kind to target size of $60mn. The new efficient energy, closed-loop manufacturing and the circularity, it is not yet being scaled. The Good Fashion fund provides impact lending tools to finance creation of fair jobs and growth. They do so in line Fund provides the resources, tools and incentives investments in supply chain innovations specifically with the Five Goods: Good Energy, Good Water, Good needed to bridge the innovation gap, bringing these in India, Bangladesh and Vietnam as well as other Materials, Good Economy and Good Lives. innovations to the mainstream.” areas throughout Asia. The fund's blended structure For an extensive outlook, Vanessa Cheung, Founder Small to medium manufacturers whose products or combines risk-tolerant capital with private sector The Mills Fabrica, “With the launch of the Good services are in tandem with these criteria looking to investment, that allows for flexibility and tailored Fashion Fund, we are delighted to partner with C&A implement best-in-class technology and equipment, financing to best fit each individual. Foundation, Fashion for Good and FOUNT to create a will be eligible for funding. The Fund is also mandated On lines of catering off-beat, Leslie Johnston, Executive new platform to address the financing gap for to support larger manufacturers committed to Director C&A Foundation says, "We all know that sustainable innovations. We look forward to investing in highly disruptive technologies ‘business as usual’ will not result in the fashion supporting the Fund with our network and partners in
32 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 33 FASHION ON DEMAND Becoming a reality now
he future of fashion is increasingly linked to customization. On-demand The on-demand business model is now Tproduction is a business model with limited financial risk and it has many The on-demand model is a way to make factories smarter and bring business advantages for companies: It allows adapting the offer exactly to the demand by closer to the consumer. The key to meeting the needs of the new consumer is producing precise quantities, avoiding stockpiles or having to resort to price learning how to integrate state-of-the-art digital technology and real-time reductions. 74 percent of millennial & generation today is interested in purchasing consumer data into daily business operations. Brands, retailers and personalized clothing. manufacturers with the flexibility to produce quickly and on demand are From an economic perspective, there are many positives to on-demand production. successfully winning consumer loyalty. On the plus side, it requires lower capital investment and leads to smaller inventories and more flexibility and agility. Shorter-turnaround cycles can reduce On-demand business benefits demand uncertainty and contribute to a more sustainable small-batch production • Generate positive cash flow: Take pre-paid orders, optimize operational overhead, cycle. However, production costs are generally higher, due to the smaller batch gain material savings and minimize excess stock sizes, as are transport costs if production is nearshore or offshore. • Achieve operational agility: Respond and react quickly to new market opportunities around on-demand production and personalization—small series, Rising take-up of on-demand production will lead to a spike in personalization, and customization and made-to-measure orders—without disrupting existing a new generation of customized clothing start-ups, creating a new definition of revenue models “made to measure.” In the technology space, automation intellectual property will continue to develop, with patent approvals likely to be a critical success • Acquire competitive advantage: Integration of innovative technologies at factor in the years ahead. each step of the product lifecycle lets you build and manage a powerful, efficient on-demand supply chain to speed your products to market and To respond to new market trends and help fashion companies to meet new strengthen your position challenges, Lectra has developed the Fashion on demand solution. The result of • Think globally and act locally: Create, develop and produce more sustainably for the research of more than one hundred experts during the last 4-5 years, stems specific regions, adapting your production to business models and/or individual from the principles of the Industry 4.0 and it automates the entire process of consumers by taking advantage of nearshoring customization, from product development to the final cutting phase. Fashion on demand by Lectra Consumers are now driving trends The industry’s first end-to-end solution to develop individualized products and Thanks to 24-hour connectivity, consumers are making faster, more informed automate production—is designed to help the fashion industry overcome the purchasing decisions. Not only are they defining the value proposition of products challenges of scaling and/or implementing made-to-order and personalized offers. and services, but they are also empowered to impose their demands on the market. Brands, retailers and manufacturers wanting to succeed in this new business environment will have to change their focus to be more customer- centric, adopt industry 4.0 best practices and invest in smart technology to keep up with consumer trends.
Conventional supply chains can no longer meet consumer demand The conventional fashion supply chain model is too opaque, fragmented and slow to respond to diversified consumer demands quickly enough to satisfy customers. As a result, consumers will look to the nearest competitor to get the personalized products and exceptional customer experiences they want. This inability of the conventional supply chain to meet new expectations puts established fashion companies at risk.
34 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 A complete solution • Lectra Digital Cutting Platform: A powerful cloud-based solution including business applications • Virga smart and connected single-ply cutting line • 3 packages for a modular and scalable offer: Made to order for sampling, small series, quick assortment Made to customize for customization orders Made to measure for made-to-measure clothing • Powerful automatons that automatically process the various activities from preparation up to cutting • Seamless automatic synchronization between cutting line, digital platform, ERP and Lectra CAD
What you will gain Fashion on Demand by Lectra is a game-changer in this space because it automates the go-to-market processes to expedite development while concurrently enabling manufacturers to expertly manage fabric cutting, even for complex, patterned designs. By shortening the cycle, fashion companies will be able to produce the high-quality personalized garments consumers want faster. Improved time to market • Simultaneous management of multiple individual orders • Automation of production rules • Identical cutting speed for both patterned and plain fabrics Cost savings at every stage • Material savings: Powerful nesting and high productivity per square meter • No plastic and paper consumables • Multi-line and multi-site management Operational efficiency • Streamlined production processes • Pre-set cutting instructions • Configurable workflow with rules you can change at any time Full operational control and 360° visibility • Supervision controls • Vertical IT system and horizontal process integration • Data monitoring integrated into dashboard Flexible and secure management of personalization offers • Management of any variant or component • Automatic matching of orders to product catalog • Line-item product monitoring made possible by unique product ID numbers Optimized management of a broad range of fabrics and patterns • Powerful scanner with fabric pattern positioning • Material library management: Set attributes for individual fabrics • Automatic parameter set-up for cutting Consistent fit and sizing across products and markets • 2D patternmaking • 2D industrialization (including special grading) • Reliable alterations system with automatic consistency controls Enhanced user experience thanks to an easy-to-use solution • Intuitive touch-screen interfaces • Controlled sequencing of cutting jobs • Visual loading and off-loading assistance
Why Lectra? Lectra has more than 40 years of experience innovating in the fashion industry. It works together with major fashion and apparel players in over 100 countries. Drawing from its experience and expertise, it is continuously reinventing the value chain so that businesses can become more pro table, sustainable and agile
APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 35 CMAI’s Apparel Index shows decline in India’s exports
MAl’s Apparel Index aims to set a benchmark for the entire domestic apparel Cindustry and helps brands in taking informed business decisions. For investors, industry players, stakeholders and policy makers, the index is a useful tool offering concrete and credible information and is an excellent source for assessing the performance of the industry. The Index is analysed on assessing the performance on four parameters: Sales turnover, sell through (percentage of fresh stocks sold), number of days of inventory holding, and investments (signifying future confidence) in brand development and brand building. The apparel IIP in June 2019 was 162, which is 1 percent lower than that in May 2019. The index has declined for three consecutive months. The apparel CPI has remained constant for the past three months at a value of 149. The apparel exports in June 2019 stood at $1,233 mn, showing a decrease of 9 percent from June 2018. Apparel exports to Saudi Arab have shown the highest growth (56 percent); exports to largest market USA also increased by 7 percent in Apr-Jun 2019 as compared to Apr-Jun 2018. However, the apparel exports to other major Apparel Consumer Price Index (CPI) Update markets have declined. The apparel imports in June 2019 stood at $78 mn, which is 7 percent higher than that in June 2018. Apparel imports from Bangladesh, the largest apparel exporter to India, has increased by 40 percent. China’s apparel exports to India have also grown by 19 percent during the same period. Analysis of financial filings of select apparel manufacturers and fashion brands & retailers for Q1 FY 2020 over Q1 FY 2019 highlights the following: • Most of the companies have shown an increase in their operating revenue. • Growth in Operating Profit Margins (OPM per cent) for majority of the companies is also very high with Gokaldas Exports and Pearl Global showing an increase of 11.3 and 4.6 percentage points. • The increase in OPM percent of fashion brands and retailers is mainly because of a change in regulation by Ministry of Corporate Affairs*. *Under new regulation (IND-AS 116), the rent expense will be replaced by depreciation and interest expense in the income statement, reflecting their right to- use an asset for a period of time and the associated liability for payments. Country wise Apparel Exports Update Apparel index of industrial production (IIP) update • Apparel exports to Saudi Arab have shown the highest growth (56 percent) with an addition of $50 mn in Apr-Jun 2019 as compared to Apr-Jun 2018. • The exports to largest market USA also increased by 7 percent in Apr-Jun 2019 as compared to Apr-Jun 2018. • However, the apparel exports to other major markets of UK, Germany and Spain have declined.
Monthly apparel exports update In US$ Million FY 2019 FY 2020 YoY Change MoM Change Apr 1,352 1,409 4% -18% May 1,339 1,530 14% 9% June 1,359 1,233 -9% -19% YTD 4,050 4,172 3% Provisional Data for Latest Month July 1,275 1,365 7% 11%
Data Source: DGCI&S Apparel Index of Industrial Production (IIP) Update The apparel IIP has declined continuously for the past three months. With a value Monthly apparel imports update of 162 in June 2019, the apparel IIP was 1 percent lower than that in May 2019. In US$ Million FY 2019 FY 2020 YoY Change MoM Change Apparel Consumer Price Index (CPI) Update Apr 56 68 21% -22% • The apparel CPI has remained constant for the past three months at a value of 149. • As compared to July 2018, the apparel CPI increased by 2 percent in July 2019. May 67 85 27% 25% June 73 78 7% -9% Monthly Apparel Exports Update • The apparel exports in June 2019 stood at $1,233 mn, showing a decrease of 9 YTD 196 231 18% percent from June 2018. Provisional Data for Latest Month • As compared to May 2019, the apparel exports declined by19 percent in June 2019. July 101 109 8% 40% • The provisional data for July 2019 indicates an increase of 7 percent on YoY basis and an increase of 11 percent on MoM basis. Data Source: DGCI&S
36 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 Data Source: DGCI&S Country wise apparel imports update Country wise apparel exports update In US$ Million FY19 (Apr-Jun) FY20 (Apr-Jun) Change % Growth In US$ Million FY19 (Apr-Jun) FY20 (Apr-Jun) Change % Growth Bangladesh 55 77 22 40% USA 1,040 1,113 73 7% China 52 62 10 19% UK 431 418 -13 -3% Spain 22 23 1 5% Germany 287 254 -33 -11% Hong Kong 9 13 4 44% Spain 229 212 -17 -7% France 205 202 -3 -1% Sri Lanka 16 11 -5 -31% Saudi Arab 90 140 50 56% Vietnam 5 7 2 40% Netherlands 110 112 2 2% Italy 4 4 0 0% Italy 83 80 -3 -4% Cambodia 3 4 1 33% Japan 65 70 5 8% Turkey 3 4 1 33% Others 1,010 1,093 83 8% UK 4 3 -1 -25% Total (without UAE) 3,550 3,694 144 4% Others 23 23 0 0% UAE 500 478 -22 -4% Total 196 231 35 18% Total 4,050 4,172 122 3%
Financial health of select brands, retailers and manufacturers Revenue from Operations (Rs. Crores) Operating Profit Margin Company FY Q1FY Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4 FY Q1FY Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4 2019 2019 FY 2020 FY 2020 FY 2020 FY 2020 2019 2019 FY 2020 FY 2020 FY 2020 FY 2020 Aditya Birla Fashion & Lifestyle 8,118 1,914 2,065 5.3% 4.1% 11.5% Fashion & Future Lifestyle Fashions 5,377 1,268 1,496 7.4% 6.9% 12.9% Lifestyle Shoppers Stop 3,481 827 832 7.4% 5.5% 11.1% Brands and Retailers Trent 2,532 591 767 9.3% 11.7% 18.3% V-Mart Retail 1,434 361 453 8.9% 12.2% 10.6% V2 Retail 748 188 202 3.9% 11.0% 10.1% Page Industries 2,852 815 835 22.3% 23.6% 22.0% Gokaldas Export 1,173 285 341 3.8% 2.8% 14.1% Pearl Global 840 175 191 5.3% 0.9% 5.5% Apparel Manufac- S P Apparels 778 176 205 16.4% 13.9% 8.2% turers Kitex Garments 607 123 146 26.0% 29.9% 20.6% Kamadgiri Fashion Limited 319 67 69 3.7% 2.4% 1.8% Celebrity Fashion 231 47 52 3.9% 0.6% 2.9% E-Land Apparel 172 43 33 -23.0% -24.6% -42.8% Bang Overseas 154 46 22 2.7% 0.6% 38.2%
Data Source: Bombay Stock Exchange Note: Only major listed exclusive fashion & lifestyle retailers Data Source: Bombay Stock Exchange and apparel manufacturers are considered
APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 37 Lectra & AEPC come together to host Industry 4.0 seminar Announces Industry 4.0 Experience Center at Apparel House
ectra, a company committed to crafting premium technologies that facilitate Lthe digital transformation of fashion industry, empowering brands and manufacturers from design to production; recently organised an Industry 4.0 seminar at Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC) – Apparel House, Gurugram on September 5, 2019. The seminar was a result of partnership between AEPC and Lectra technologies India Pvt. Ltd. And focused on how Industry 4.0 would help Apparel Manufacturers to digitally transform their business to face dynamics demands of an uncertain future. The seminar began with the welcome address by Rakesh Vaid, Vice Chairman, ATDC. At this occasion Rakesh also announced the new AEPC-Lectra Experience Center. “We are soon starting AEPC-Lectra experience center at 7th floor of Apparel House. The access to the center will be complimentary from AEPC, and we’ll be having trainers here on all working days. Each member of AEPC is entitled to come and book their appointment. Learning, teaching and materials will be absolutely free, so I’ll encourage everyone to visit sometime here with your creative teams. Everything related to CAD, spreading, pattern making and others related to Lectra’s Industry 4.0 concept will be available here. The center will be inaugurated this month.,” said Rakesh. First presentation of the day was made by Suraj Niranjan, Marketing Manager, Lectra India, on Dynamic Demands of the Future and How Adopting to Industry 4.0 Would Help in Being Future Ready. This was followed by presentation by Rajeev Sharma, Lectra – PD & Manufacturing Solutions on Challenges faced by Fashion & Apparel Industry and How Connected Technologies Would Be an Enabler in overcoming them. One of the main highlights at the seminar was a very interesting presentation by Kamlesh Katariya; MD- Peppermint Clothing Pvt. Ltd.,- A leading “Hi-Fashion” It’s been very encouraging and I thank AEPC to brand for children wear and Lectra’s Client, who especially came from Pune to share his experience about how adopting to industry 4.0 solutions has enabled his organise such seminar where we could inform company to digitally transform its business. He shared his company’s story with customers and industry about how Lectra can technology, and uniformity & precision of cutting and spreading he has achieved save on cost, time and add value to their with Lectra. “We have been using Lectra cutters and spreader at our factory in Baramati. Our work has become easier after installing Lectra solutions. Manpower businesses. It has been a good exchange of has reduced and work process has become faster beyond imagination. We only information and we plan to soon start an wonder why we did not choose it before,” said Katariya. experience center at Apparel House where After this, a presentation was made by Rahul Bagga, Adastra on Understanding industry can see live demo of solutions offered Intellectual Property Right issues for apparel industry. He discussed various by Lectra, so that anyone who wants to invest in important topics like copyright issues, patents, geographical indications etc. which generated a lot of interest among attendees. The main focus of the seminar was technology can experience and understand it to enlighten industry on how can value be added to existing business by working completely before taking the purchase decision.” on all parameters. This was followed by an interactive Question and Answer Session where attendees discussed their queries with team Lectra and other speakers at the seminar. In all, the seminar was attended by around 60 people solutions offered by Lectra, so that anyone who wants to invest in technology can from Delhi NCR including exporters, VPs, Marketing & Business heads and people experience and understand it completely before taking the purchase decision.” from CAD teams, I.E. engineers, I.E. heads and many others. Commenting on the seminar response, he said, “The industry people were very With Industry 4.0, a new range of possibilities is opening up to companies. Its inquisitive to attend the seminar to know more about Industry 4.0 concept and our concepts and digital tools bring new value creation with cost control models experience center. Together with AEPC, this proposed experience center will based on synchronized, flexible and fast—design, product development, collection enable them, to come and experience what they want to invest in. We want the management, manufacturing and retaining— processes. Industry 4.0 is a great industry to have look at it and have first-hand experience. Customers can bring opportunity for customers to differentiate their offer and better meet consumer their data that would include tech-packs, product samples, patterns, markers, expectations, with original products, designed and manufactured in an optimized fabric etc., to have them run on our Industry 4.0 compliant solution and compare way, sold at the right price and delivered as quickly as possible. Industry 4.0 is not it with their traditional way methods, then take the investment decision. Starting based on definitive turnkey solutions. It is a quest. Lectra stands beside customers this experience center is the first step. The plan is see how we can implement and on this journey. deploy this, at the same time making this successful. Once successful, I am sure AEPC would start replicating it.” While speaking on the side-lines of the event, BT Nagesh, MD, Lectra India said, “This is for the first time we are doing this seminar with AEPC. It’s been very “Besides, we would be organising more such seminars in others parts of the encouraging and I thank AEPC to organise such seminar where we could inform country as well. After Gurugram, next will be in Tirupur in October, followed by customers and industry about how Lectra can save on cost, time and add value to Mumbai sometime in November – December. It could be with APEC or their businesses. It has been a good exchange of information and we plan to soon independently by Lectra also,” added Nagesh start an experience center at Apparel House where industry can see live demo of (By Swati Sharma, Assistant Editor)
38 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 39 High cost of cheap fashion
ating back, in 18th century raw materials have to Dbe sourced by an individual which will be later Fast fashion can be made into a textile material by the process of weaving. The major lead took during the 19th century Industrial explained as inexpensive revolution which bought in machineries, dress shops clothing, manufactured at were dresses were customised for an individual customer. Sweatshop culture began. These are cheap quality which are factories that employ huge volumes of employees to soon to end up as trash. work in a restricted unfair condition for cheap labour They mainly focus on which further lead to various accidents. mass market and are done DR. S. AISHWARIYA In New York during the period 1911 a fire broke in a in huge volumes. It is a completed her B.Sc. Family garment factory, that killed more than 146 workers, women being the majority. During the 1960-70, concept in retail business, and Community Science and clothing gained so much momentum that the identity Fashion Designing., M.Sc. of an individual and his status was estimated from which signifies design Textiles and Fashion the dresses and accessories he wore. High fashion from ramp walk to trend in Apparel., and Ph. D in and street fashion were popular terminologies in that era. Need for clothing unfolded several times. The a swish. The extension of Textiles and Clothing. She indoor, outdoor, sports, party, bridal, maternity, lingerie this concept is that product has qualified UGC-NET exam lines were growing along with the summer, winter moves to the trash in the and currently working as an and sleep wear. This increased the need for more fabrics, sourcing from around the world, different same speed. Assistant Professor with the construction methods and in affordable price. Cheap Department of Textiles and labour was essential and developing countries like India and Bangladesh was offered a chance to create Clothing, Avinashilingam shopping to meet the unwanted needs. The discount a self-inflict wound on themselves through this Institute for Home Science sale, annual clearance, end of sale, one plus one offer, opportunity. High production and low wages, poor buy two and take one free, vouchers, gift coupons, and Higher Education for working conditions, long working hours, sexual redeem points have made people shopping for clothes Women. She is a Proficiency harassment and child labour was prominent in the a habit rather than a purposeful activity. This second industry. In a locality where employment was nil and holder and Gold Medallist in skin that one can chose is having a huge story and is agriculture was depleting, this job providing sector, both her Under-gradation more than just the cloth. People are very ignorant was grabbed by the civilians without a second and Post-graduation. thought. The hard way of making money is the only In UK 235 mn pieces are estimated to be sent to landfill available solution to those people with majority being by 2017. The excessive shopping culture, fast fashion, women and children. This was considered a regular poor quality clothing are major reasons for the particular nature of these sweatshops until one day, the biggest situation. This is expected to increase every year. In collision happened. the current scenario landfill pollution is added to the already existing concerns with regard to air and water It began like a normal day, on the 24 April 2013 in pollution. Today a huge increase in awareness can be Rana plaza, Bangladesh which has the biggest seen among consumers. ‘Chose well’, ‘Buy less’, ‘Make garment industry on an eight-storey commercial it last’, ‘Less is more’ are very popular. building previously they had reported them that the building had cracks and was not safe for work. But the Production on the other hand is also brought under workers have been forced to start the day. The building limelight as it consumes huge amounts of water and collapsed, killing 1134 and 2500 injured. This was the chemicals. Approximately 900kg of animal skin tanning beginning when concerns on the quality of life/ wages uses 300 kilograms of chemicals. The industry is thriving of the labour were bought into limelight. People started on harmful chemicals and now, Government has given questioning on wages paid for a 5$ T-shirt. It was a space through funds and policies to take some serious during the period 1990-2000 fast fashion acquired its action. Green Peace Revolution has bought in alarming dimension by brands like Zara and H&M. They copied effects in textile industry. The Detox Campaign focus the designs from bigger fashion house and made on estimating the amount of chemicals in the textile/ garments at a very fast pace. These were cheaper fashion products. Fashion Revolution and Who Made than the original. My Clothes hashtag was so popular that it received a major adding value and human touch to the product. Consumer behaviour today The Clean Clothes Campaign and Fair-Trade In today’s world every mood, occasion and stages in Organisation help in supporting the quality of life, wages, life is associated with textiles. The marketing strategy working hours, safety, women care centre and child claims that buying new clothes cures mental support for the labourers. depression, wearing new outfits for the smallest of a life event as mandatory, people become self-obsessed Two faces of the coin ‘Fashion’ with these material possessions. Adding to the flame, In a study on comparing the shopping trends in internet is trending the social influencers who upload America from 1980 and now. It is estimated that the ‘Unboxing’, ‘new hauls’ and ‘first impression videos’ shopping has increased five times. It imports 1 bn along with emotional impact that they create on the garments from China every year. The clothing viewers, that make them vulnerable to this excessive consumption in UK has been estimated to have
40 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 increased by 37 percent from 2001 and 2005. These are important data to be considered as a pollutant that will end up in landfill soon. In a city 5-6 percent is textile, this number is a serious threat as it encompasses of materials that will not degrade and will be growing in every year. The Business of Fast Fashion, Detox: How People Power is Cleaning Up Fashion, Last Week Tonight with John Oliver and Fast Fashion: Sweatshops are four best videos on youtube which will help an beginner to understand about fast fashion. The reason is, traditional fashion seasons are four summer, autumn, winter and spring, but in current day ‘fast fashion’, the clothing is updated every 4 to 6 weeks in some cases in between this period as well. The consumers are given an idea of new product, new display and crave for the same excitement every time they enter the store. This is cheap quality, low priced.
Fast Fashion Fast fashion can be explained as inexpensive clothing, manufactured at cheap quality which are soon to end up as trash. They mainly focus on mass market and are done in huge volumes. It is a concept in retail business, which signifies design from ramp walk to trend in a swish. The extension of this concept is that product moves to the trash in the same speed. The popular brands like H&M, Zara, C&A, Peacocks, Primark, Xcel Brands, and Topshop use this philosophy of quick manufacturing at affordable price. Fast fashion is also associated with disposable fashion as it produces product to mass market at low price. It has also bought in limelight on the working conditions of people in developing countries who are involved in textile processing and garment construction. Main objective of fast fashion is to promote more sales, that is more quantity in buying by offering goods at lower price. It refers to product made with low quality and available at cheap prices. The harmful side is the eco- hazards posed by these products which are loaded with synthetics. Fast fashion is products of low quality and tons of negative impact on environment. A new product is launched and once it reaches the saturation stage the next is introduced to the consumers. Primark for example has frequent visitors back in their store for their visual merchandising which creates an instant bridge in creating a visual appeal. Because 75 percent of the customer decides on buying within three seconds from seeing what is displayed. It makes consumers very happy as they are exposed to a new variety of clothing and buying it as a cheaper price is psychologically exciting. It gives a sense of accomplishment and a stress buster too. These are low cost clothing that are based on latest trends. Companies with fast fashion concept enjoy 15 percent better sales compared to the competitors. Quick in manufacturing at an affordable price. Top brands like Zara and H&M has adopted this concept of fast fashion. Zara for example, is a global model in reducing the time from design to production. With the help of fast fashion, every year Zara is able to make, 30,000 textile items to 1,600 stores distributed in 58 countries. The update of new clothing (stock) is done twice a week. New minimal collection is launched every two months. This enables frequent visit of the customer to enjoy the display and promote ideas for buying more as each comes with a new tag, design theme and colour concept. Fast fashion uses resources and depletes nature. The different fast fashion brands are Bershka, Bestseller, Boohoo.com, C&A, Charlotte Russe, Cotton On, Esprit, Fashion Nova, FIVE FOXes, Forever 21,Gap Inc., Giordano, Guess, H&M, Inditex, Mango (clothing), Massimo Dutti, Metersbonwe, Missguided, Miss Selfridge, Nasty Gal, New Look, New Yorker, Next, Oysho, Peacocks, Pretty Little Thing, Primark, Pull & Bear, Rainbow Shops, Renner, Riachuelo, River Island, Romwe, Shasa, Sheln, Stradivarius, Topshop, United Colors of Benetton, Uniqlo, Uterqüe, Urban Outfitters, Zaful and Zara.
Shift towards sustainability Conclusion Overconsumption has become like a disease in the society. The consumers psychology has been the centre of fashion studies where the mindset, attitude Shopping used to be occasional. Today, people look out for buying clothes as a towards buying, awareness of product life cycle, the life of the purchased product means of stress buster. Internet loaded with hastags like OOTD – meaning Outfit are factors that are considered for survey. A lot of sustainable initiatives are also of the Day, installs a sense of pressure among the adolescent age group to buy the taken to create textile from new sources. AnkeDomaske for developing textile latest trends and create new looks. It is by sharing pictures and watch on the fibre from milk, sportswear from virus, high-tech sportswear from waste coffee count of likes and comments, increased consumption of clothing has been fast bean grounds, fermented tea into vegan leather by Suzanne Lee. Companies like spreading like a disease. Now slow fashion has begun to engulf fast fashion and H&M, Viletex have taken initiatives to engage the public in the act of sustainability replace it slowly. Lingerie’s, speciality clothing and kids wear are focused along through recycling. They believe that this can be a measure to reduce the with dresses for outwear, sportwear etc. The handmade slow fashion which is environmental impact. The garments donated by the consumers are used to make done by local craftsman, providing livelihood for the local men and women, carpets, mops, mattress and garments. rejuvenate lost arts and crafts, promoting artisan’s is the need of the hour
APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 41 Can welding replace sewing in the garment industry?
have recently been reading a lot about the Iinnovations happening around the world in the Welding is beneficial in garment industry. One thought that struck me was in the field of sewing. Are there other, more the manufacturing mainly plausible, cost-effective and quality assuring because it gives sealed methods that can replace sewing in this industry? Well, this article is an attempt to throw some light edges and seams. Also on one such method that can be an alternative to since there are no stitch sewing in the garment industry. holes and no penetration Sewing is the most commonly used method for joining into the fabric, it also MAUSMI AMBASTHA fabrics or garment parts in the garment industry. There makes the product Founder and COO of have been many attempts in the past for finding out the most suitable replacement for sewing. But none aesthetically appealing. ThreadSol. Winner of the of them match the flexibility, appearance, and esteemed Grace Hopper performance achieved through sewing. Still, the This provides welding an Celebrations Entrepreneur scientists keep searching for new alternative extra edge over sewing. Quest 2013, is an techniques to join fabrics. established expert in the One of the alternatives is Welding. In this technique, heat and pressure are applied to the seams of the Ultrasonic welding garment industry with over fabric to fuse them together, thus making a sealed 10 years of experience. In this process, Ultrasonic waves (frequencies) are formation. Fabric welding is done with the help of a administered to the fabric from the horn of the welding Mausmi holds a Masters variety of heat sealing machines. Thermoplastic machine. This frequency generates heat within the degree in Fashion coatings such as polypropylene (PP), fibers at the point of the joint site, causing the polyvinylchloride (PVC) and polyethylene (PE) are polymers to join and form a bond. Technology from NIFT, used for heat sealing. Delhi and is also B.Tech in Welding with the ultrasonic method is probably the Computer Science. She has What is the process followed most diverse of its applications. It is used for the written over 15 publications in welding? manufacture of protective clothing, outdoor garments, The basic steps in welding include: lingerie, filters etc. Since ultrasonic welding creates for several leading apparel impermeable seams, clothing worn around a 1. Heat application on fabric magazines and also writes contaminated environment such as a hospital or a her own apparel blog 2. Melting of thermoplastic materials laboratory shields the person from harm. This 3. Applying pressure on melted area impermeable seam can also play a great role in the called StitchDiary on 4. Creation of bonding manufacture of parachutes, boat sails etc. www.stitchdiary.com 5. Cooling On the contrary, not all the fabrics can be welded 6. Joining of the fabric by ultrasonic welding. Welding is limited to a The process of welding differs in how the heat is specific thickness of fabric as it may harm the applied. When a joint is made, a clamping force causes outside surface of the fabric before bonding with a heating effect at the interface of the 2 materials it. Especially in the case of sheer fabrics, this might which give rise to a welded bond. This is similar to be a big problem. the most basic type of welding we know that is used Laser Welding to weld metals, plastic, glass, etc. The principle of laser welding is simple: A laser beam heats up the metal or thermoplastic so intensely that it What are the types of welding that melts in places and the materials become fused. Laser can be used in the garment industry? welding is the best method in order to create seams of Rotary welding high quality and better reproducibility. It is ideal for In this process, the fabric moves continuously through woven fabrics made of polyester or polyamide. the welding area and pulled by drive wheels. The heat Generally, diode lasers and CO2 lasers are used in the is sent through a source just before it passes through process which works on different wavelengths. the drive wheels. Pressure is applied after this which The most important part of laser welding is that it seals the fabric permanently. does not damage the exterior of the fabric which Although Rotary welding needs skilled-labour and creates a seamless effect. Laser-welded seams are well-trained operators, it is a fast process and can extremely flat, elastic, and skin-friendly. Since laser weld up to 6 mtr of fabric in a minute. It can be of very welding does not require adhesives of any kind, it is good use in manufacturing 3-dimensional products also especially environmentally friendly due to the like bags, boats etc. recycling process.
42 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 What are the advantages of Welding? The welding process proves beneficial to the garment industry in many ways not only because of its durability but, also the quality. • Welding is beneficial in the manufacturing mainly because it gives sealed edges and seams. Also since there are no stitch holes and no penetration into the fabric, it also makes the product aesthetically appealing. This provides welding an extra edge over sewing • It also provides a consistent and permanent seal to the garment, unlike sewing. The thread in the sewn garments can suffer tension problems and could break whereas the welding process welds the fabric evenly making an air-tight bond • Welding can be used to create durable, abrasion resistant and water-tight garments for various purposes. It can be also be used to tackle problems like thickness variation of the fabric and joining tight or small corners • No external heating material or element is needed in this process. This makes it a cost-effective method as compared to other joining methods (moulding, adhesives, fusing etc.) • Since there is no requirement of needle or thread used in the process, a large amount of material and waste is reduced. There is no threat of thread deterioration time or needle breakage Fabric joining by Welding
So, is welding an alternative to sewing? industry as most of the garment manufacturing is done using threads and needles. No matter how productive, cost saving and time-saving the process of welding Although welding is a costlier production method compared to sewing, the cost might be, it cannot replace sewing for all kind of applications. Some fabrics may come down in future with the new advancements in technology. cannot be processed due to the presence of certain colorants or additives. Conclusion Despite the numerous advantages over sewing, welding doesn’t prove to be Welding as a method for garment bonding may prove to be of great benefit to the much economical for an organization. The initial financial layout for the garment industry in the future. Smart technology and wearable technology need a machinery and the time and expertise to train staff can be both time- lot of work in terms of awareness building and information provision.The global consuming and expensive. garment industry mostly works on sewing when it comes to manufacturing a Also, high level of accuracy is needed from the operator in the process of welding garment. There is always a lot of struggle involved in terms of adapting such because once the process is completed, it is difficult to alter or repair the garment. complex and intricate methods and taking them to the next level More usage of welding method in the garment industry will also affect the thread
APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 43 Please tell us more about Epson Group? EPSON – Ready to Epson is a Japanese company, which entered the textile business in 1998, thanks to the collaboration with two other Italian companies, Fratelli Robustelli and For.Tex. Together with these two Como-based expand business in companies, Epson developed a digital textile printer, combining unmatched quality and high productivity with even greater reliability the world’s digital that is one of the most versatile digital textile printers in the market today. The first digital printer was named Monna Lisa, which is still the brand name of our printers. Epson later acquired Fratelli Robustelli textile market and For.Tex, which are today part of the Epson Group, each one bringing its own expertise, respectively machine engineering and chemical development. So, we have one person to manage all the issues coming from our customers. I have more than 13 years of experience. I’ll be responsible for textile division of Epson for Western market starting from Europe, Middle East, Africa and Russia (EMEAR) and the Americas. Epson is a Japanese company we share the world in different areas. Eastern region including India, Pakistan, Japan etc. will be managed by another person from Japan. This is our way to move aggressively in the market. Try to do best to spread our technology in every country. Epson already has many subsidiary companies all over the world located locally so it is better and easier than before to spread in each country.
What new technologies have been presented at ITMA now? With this ITMA we are promoting two new models of Monna Lisa. Customers can see entire line-up of our products here. ITMA is one of the most important events in the textile calendar for Epson and the latest show has been a great success for us. Here we have showcased our new Monna Lisa EvoTre range and new Genesta pigment inks, demonstrating the latest Epson innovations for an evolving digital textile market. The new Monna Lisa EvoTre range features Epson PrecisionCore Technology and offers a complete solution for all textile market needs, from large scale, high speed production to small run, on-demand sample printing. Monna Lisa EvoTre range includes the new Monna Lisa EvoTre 64 and the Monna Lisa EvoTre 8, as well as the Monna Lisa EvoTre 32 (displayed in the 16 channel configuration) and the Monna Lisa EvoTre 16. The decision to exhibit the entire line-up of the Monna Lisa series at the fair was much appreciated by our visitors who were able to experience, once again, the superb quality of our machines which has remained consistent after more than 15 years. Above all, visitors were genuinely delighted to see our latest top-of-the-range, high productivity Monna Lisa EvoTre 64.
Paolo Crespi How was the response at ITMA? Good enough. The number of customers and prospects has been particularly high since the opening day and has remained constant pson, a leader in digital textile printing from Japan, throughout the entire event. It was a great opportunity to get in touch with international clients, coming not only from European countries, but EItaly's For.Tex, a leader in dye, thickeners and textile also increasingly from markets further afield such as Turkey, India, Pakistan pre- and post-treatment product manufacturing, and and South America, especially Peru, Mexico and Brazil. This has resulted Fratelli Robustelli, an Italian company known for its textile in many new conversations with prospective customers. printing engineering and production, have been partners for 15 years bringing together their expertise and How competitive are you as a company to provide inks in terms of prices? competencies to provide a complete digital textile We are in the market with several units and 100 per cent genuine inks since 2003 when we started. This means that we can and we are able printing solution. The three companies came together to stay in the market even if prices of the inks move down. So we in 2003 with Monna Lisa, a production-line digital printer revise our strategy area, we control all the cost because we produce equipped with Epson piezo-electric inkjet technology. everything internally. So again from ITMA exhibition we have revised In an interview with Apparel Views Editor Arvind Kumar our strategy according to the market conditions and request. Price during ITMA Barcelona 2019, Paolo Crespi, Direct to Fabric nowadays is really different from the time we started. Sales & Marketing Director for Europe, Middle East, Africa Today everyone is talking about speed and single pass technologies, as a and Russia (EMEAR) and the Americas discusses more company what is your take on it? about the company and its further plans. Nowadays, we have many competitors. We did what we needed to do. We had several customers that wanted to print faster with medium
44 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 We see India as one of the fastest growing markets in the world. We are present in India since 2009-10 with several units already running successfully. We are very sure of selling more machines in the coming years. In Bangladesh not yet, but it is also one important market for us Monna Lisa EvoTre 64 in the future. or large batch. So, 64 head machine has enough speed. It can give How are India and Bangladesh markets? production of about 800 sq mtr per hr with high quality. So for today we We see India as one of the fastest growing markets in the world. We are think it’s a right solution with good enough productivity. In future we may present in India since 2009-10 with several units already running look at single pass. successfully. We are very sure of selling more machines in the coming years. In Bangladesh not yet, but it is also one important market for us in Can you achieve the desired quality in single pass? the future. Everyone is trying to do both faster and higher quality but at present single pass cannot solve both. You have to compromise on quality of print with Any targets for next year, especially for India? single pass. Anyone can choose depending on their need. We don’t focus New and nicer number of units is the only way to improve our business. For on only faster productivity as we are moving in many different directions. customers especially in India, 32 head and 64 head printers are attractive with reactive inks. We have other markets ready to cater pigment. We How is Epson coping up with the challenge of fastness and sharpness of the found that only one agent working for that one wide country was not enough colours with pigment inks? so we enhanced our presence there with Epson India. We have direct We started developing a series of the inks that improved the previous one employees for selling and technical service now. So, direct sales plus local because of the request of the market to really announce an ink process that agents co-operating together in the country is the best way to speed up as can have a greater sustainability in environment. We are ready to focus on much as possible. To cover a wide country like India, Comotex, DCC and this possibility. We are in the pigment market since the beginning. We Epson India work together for the same purpose. started in 2003, representing whole series of inks - acid, reactive, disperse and pigment. Nowadays, as we say, we have improved fastness and quality, What edge does Epson have over other existing players in the market? we can print with new precision core head technology and speed is also Everyone has digital technology already but we have the longest experience. better than before. We have large number of units working since many years and in a market that is very difficult. We can do everything inside our plant. We supply the Can machine run with all these inks? ink, heads and the entire chemistry for the process from one company. This The machine can be installed for acid, reactive, disperse or pigment inks. is a big advantage because if a customer has a problem, whether it is the Yes, if there is the need to change the market segment, then the ink can be head or the ink or the system interface, the solution comes from one source. changed accordingly. This is one of our biggest strengths. As competitors are really aggressive, what we have to do at this stage is just to speed up relying on our technicians Do you feel pigment is future and it will go further now? and know how. Productivity is important, but what counts more is the ability Yes, for more than one reason. Pigment process is very short, you have to to deliver quality, with design, research and development. If you put all print dry and finish. But other inks require pre- and post- treatment with together we have a chance to compete. printing. You save a lot of energy, water, time etc. and today everyone is talking about sustainability. By using pigment you can do it, it’s one of the So now what will be your priority? ways. Probably in future we will have more possibilities. Keep doing R&D and install many machines with the best after sales service.
Which countries are you focusing more? What have you done for back-end support, especially in textiles? In Italy we have the most important number of installations - almost 70%. We provide complete solution, and so customers prefer one-source for all But thanks to offices and companies located in many countries, we expect their needs. We have a very nice laboratory in our company in Italy that to grow in several markets like Latin America, Turkey, Asia, Thailand, Korea serves many customers all over the world. The experience was so nice that as well. Because we have offices and services there already, so it’s quite we decided to make another one. So we created a big laboratory similar to easy for our Italian company which has such organisation. We have to the Italian one also in Japan, and now we are approaching the global market move from Italy really different. with two big laboratories. Probably another one will come soon. Put aside technology, even service is really important and we are providing the best Since its launch at last ITMA, what kind of installations Epson has done customer service ever thanks to the expertise of our technicians all over for Monna Lisa? the world. We are really ready to give good support to any customer We installed many in Italy, Turkey, Pakistan, India as well as Korea, Japan and China. I think we really spread what we targeted and expected to do more in future.
APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 45 46 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 47 INDIAN WEAVING INDUSTRY Reeling under pressure
he textiles industry has made a major contribution to the national of the weaving industry of India. However, the liberalization of the Teconomy in terms of net foreign exchange earnings and contributes international trade coupled with change in the reforms of domestic economy, around 14 percent to industrial production, and 4 percent to GDP, 17 percent have affected the weaving industry of India negatively. With a total of 2.6 to the country’s exports, and 21 percent employment. It is the second mn looms, India manufactures approx. 66.5 bn sq. mtr of fabrics of which largest provider of employment after agriculture. Thus, the growth and all about 2 bn sq. mtr is from the mill sector and the balance 64 bn sq. mtr is round development of this industry has a direct bearing on the improvement from the decentralised sector. of India's economy. Fabric production in India stood at 66,515 mn sq. mtr, growing at 1 per cent Presently India has abundance of natural resources like cotton, jute and CAGR in the past five years. Woven fabric production of 48.8 bn sq mtr had silk. Indian products are preferred for their fine designing, embellishment the major share of 73 per cent, the rest being knitted fabric. However, the and craft. From the ages the Indian fabric designers and weavers are production of woven fabric has grown at a CAGR of 1 per cent while knitted recognized as one of the best in the world. At present industry is growing fabric production has increased at 4 CAGR. Within the woven fabric segment, at 9-10 percent with Indian economy. Indian textile industry currently the share of cotton fabric has increased from 46 per cent in 2012-13 to 50 possesses a share of 4.7 per cent in world market of textiles and clothing. per cent in 2017-18, mainly at the expense of synthetic woven fabric. The Indian textiles industry is extremely varied, with the hand-spun and Despite the fact that the Indian weaving industry employs a large section of hand-woven textiles sectors at one end of the spectrum, while the capital- the Indian population, it is considered as a failing industry. Though this intensive sophisticated mills sector at the other end of the spectrum. The ancient industry of India is experiencing a bad phase, a large market for decentralised power looms/ hosiery and knitting sector form the largest weaving products still exist both in the international and domestic market. component of the textiles sector. The close linkage of the textile industry The manufacturing of the weaving products makes a remarkable contribution to agriculture (for raw materials such as cotton) and the ancient culture and to the national GDP and even in the exports revenue. The weaving industry traditions of the country in terms of textiles make the Indian textiles sector of India provides employment to approximately 13 mn people, thereby, unique in comparison to the industries of other countries. The Indian textile making this industry the largest provider of rural work force. It is preceded industry has the capacity to produce a wide variety of products suitable to by the agriculture sector. different market segments, both within India and across the world. The weaving industry in India has self-depending mechanism that India weaving industry has conventionally been one of the most promising includes training the young weavers, abundance of resources and sectors of huge employment. In fact, after agriculture, this industry is largest capacities, thereby, helping the industry not to be dependent on the provider of work force. The abundance in the raw materials, the continuous Government. In addition, weaving is eco-friendly, and is aimed at the supply of cheap work force is the contributing factors behind the success cutting back on the environmental impact.
48 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 Challenges India's Export Statistics of Textiles & Clothing The Indian textile industry is highly fragmented and is being dominated by the unorganised sector and small and medium industries. The changing Values in US$ Millions government policies at the State and Central Government levels are posing April-March % Growth major challenges to the textile industry. The tax structure GST (Goods and 2018-19 Item 2017-2018 2019-2019 Service Tax) make the garments expensive. Another important thereat is raising interest rates and labour wages and workers’ salaries. There is higher Readymade Garment 16,706.94 16,137.78 -3.41 % level of attrition in the garment industry. Although Central Government is RMG of cotton including accessories 8510.76 8692.76 2.14 % wooing the foreign investors the investment is coming in the textile industry. RMG of Man-made fibre 4746.97 3852.17 -18.85 % The industry has its own limitations such as accesses to latest technology and failures to meet global standards in the highly competitive export market. RMG of other textile material 3122.15 3222.42 3.21 % There is fierce competition from China, Bangladesh, Vietnam and Sri Lanka in RMG Wool 169.14 197.99 17.06 % the low price garment market. In the global market tariff and non-tariff barriers RMG Silk 157.92 172.44 9.19 % coupled with quota is posing major challenge to the Indian textile industry. Cotton Textile 11,211.85 12,403.99 10.63 % There are both internal and external major challenges for the exporters. Some of the internal challenges include high interest rates, infrastructural Cotton Fabrics &Madeups 5482.87 5946.46 8.46 % inadequacies at the ports/airports, inadequate amount of refund of taxes & Cotton Yarn 3424.92 3895.49 13.74 % duties across the value chain and volatility in the domestic cotton prices. The Cotton Raw including waste 1894.25 2104.41 11.09 % external challenges include high import duties for cotton textiles products from India in leading export markets as compared to lower or concessional Other Textile Yarn, Fabrics madeup articles 409.81 457.63 11.67 % duties on imports of similar products from competing countries. Hidden subsidies and export benefits extended to competing nations also plays a India Export Statistics of Cotton Fabrics, Madeups Etc. significant role when it comes to competitiveness of our products. (Values in US$ Millions) Conclusion Rank Country April - July % Share % Change 2019-20 (P) 2019-20 (P) The Indian textile industry requires support from both the Central and State 2018-19 2019-20 Governments to become competitive in the Global market. The Skill India and Make-in India programs of Central Government headed by Prime World 1,884.95 1,992.31 100.00 5.70% Minister Narendra Modi is helping the industry in getting required skilled 1 U S A 707.77 739.16 37.10 4.44% manpower and good market for textile products. It is high time for the 2 Bangladesh 148.99 149.78 7.52 0.53% textile industry to upgrade their technology and implement ERP to streamline supply chain and enhance customer relations management 3 Sri Lanka 69.34 78.88 3.96 13.75% activities. There is the expectation of finalising some significant FTAs with 4 U K 72.17 76.59 3.84 6.13% Canada and Australia as well as the Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP) which may hopefully generate more market access for 5 Germany 63.26 60.32 3.03 -4.65% the Indian textile industry. The Refund of State and Central Levies (ROSCTL) 6 UAE 46.19 49.77 2.50 7.76% needs to be extended to yarns and fabrics also. 7 Senegal 35.50 45.14 2.27 27.14% The future for the Indian textile industry looks promising, buoyed by both strong domestic consumption as well as export demand. With consumerism 8 France 31.46 34.85 1.75 10.76% and disposable income on the rise, the retail sector has experienced a rapid 9 Canada 30.38 33.29 1.67 9.58% growth in the last decade with the entry of several international players like 10 South Korea 37.02 31.17 1.56 -15.80% Marks & Spencer, Guess and Next into the Indian market. The Union Ministry of Textiles, which has set a target of doubling textile exports in 10 years, 11 Australia 28.54 31.10 1.56 8.96% plans to enter into bilateral agreements with Africa and Australia along with 12 Italy 33.23 27.45 1.38 -17.38% working on a new textile policy to promote value addition, apart from the revised Textile up gradation Fund Scheme. 13 Sudan 22.36 24.10 1.21 7.78% To know more about the present status and future of the Indian weaving industry, 14 Ethiopia 6.56 23.74 1.19 261.84% we got in touch with leading players from various segments of the textile supply 15 Spain 27.09 22.80 1.14 -15.84% chain. Their views are covered in the next few pages.... Source: DGCIS/MOC
APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 49 Association...
Secondly, India has long been a manufacturers become sensitive in synthetic fabrics is worth noting. cotton focused country and this is towards the need of garment Indian fabric manufacturers have reflected in the fabrics as well. manufacturers and brands. Long term been able to compete with global Though many manufacturing set-ups value chain partnerships will be the players both in price and quality, have come for synthetic fabrics, India key to resolve this issue. These however, inconsistency is a major still needs to strengthen this area as partnerships will not only facilitate issue, be it in product quality or price. speciality fabrics such as polyester- serviceability but also create One of the major reasons behind this spandex, nylon, nylon-spandex based predictability depending on which has been lack of economies of scale. fabrics are not easily available and future investments can be planned in Since, the capacities are low, mainly imported. Also, high quality, a better way. It is important for manufacturers are not able to provide fine denier polyester filament yarns garment manufacturers to coordinate volumes and on-time delivery. This is required for these fabrics are not efficiently with the fabric restricting India’s apparel exports easily available in India. However, manufacturers and consider them as capability as garment manufacturers fabrics made from these fine deniers an extended arm of their business. are not able to accept large volume President Rahul Mehta, have high demand in sportswear and orders with confidence from the As our industry is currently The Clothing Manufacturers fashion wear products. fabric supply. Association of India fragmented and India is already facing Another major challenge that needs stiff competition from countries such With the world moving towards ne of the major challenges in to be addressed is lack of service as Bangladesh, Vietnam, etc., real concepts of fast fashion, the fabric Ofabric sourcing is opportunistic orientation in the suppliers. Indian partnerships are the only way to win industry is also witnessing several pricing offered by suppliers. The fabric manufacturers deviate from the game. Further, the government shifts. For example, cotton was prices are not stabilized and as a their committed deadlines quite may incentivize investments in always treated as a premium fabric result, a lot of time is spent on often, which eventually leads to a manufacturing of speciality fabrics, and was preferred by global buyers. negotiating with suppliers. The delay in final shipment to buyer. There which are not easily available in this However, with changing designs and suppliers keep on changing the prices is a strong need of developing country. For this, attracting Foreign drapes, synthetic and viscose fabrics depending on market demand and in serviceability, which would ensure Direct investment (FDI) would be a are catching up fast. In fact, the such a scenario, it becomes a matter timely delivery, consistent product good proposition as Indian product mix of global brands has of concern for any manufacturer quality and continuous product manufacturers can also learn from these fabrics in majority. The same before committing to a large order development to improve both quality the technical know-how these trend is being witnessed in Indian volume. This also leads to higher lead and product basket. investments bring along. brands. In order to match with the global buyers, Indian brands are also times, lack of delivery commitment In order to realize the true potential of India’s strength in cotton fabrics is gradually moving towards synthetic and lack of confidence of buyers. this sector, it is important that fabric beyond question. Also, our progress and viscose fabrics.
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of consumers is now slowly moving and marketing capabilities. preferences make Indian products from cotton to blends. The use of International Quality Standards need to comparatively costlier. cotton in India is high because India is be maintained across all levels of To be competitive with these a traditional cotton growing country production and finally the productivity of countries, India needs to reflect on the but increasing demand for synthetic the sector needs to improve through aspects that will help integrate its textiles and blends thereof is driving training, skill building and managerial textiles & clothing sector with global mills to produce more of man-made capabilities and retention of work force. supply chain to withstand competition. fibre blended products. The prices of Product innovation or new product India has to lay emphasis on the value the fibre also has a significant role to development is one among the many added segments like work-wear and play in this shift as mills prefer using critical strategies in any competitive technical textiles. The country also cheaper fibres to keep their fabric industry. Many companies have requires to offer significant importance costs immune to rising cotton prices. benefited through the introduction of to R&D at individual company level for We are sure that the future will hold a innovative products in their product new product / design development to K V Srinivasan, Chairman brighter and positive outlook for line due to a premium placed on such meet with ever changing market The Cotton Textile Export exports as favourable policies from new product developments. The future demands. the government would ease the holds well for innovation in fabrics as Promotion Council Policy support from the government in burden on exporters operating on eco-friendly and smart fabrics have granting additional relief to the extent stressed working capital. There is the already taken over the role of he Indian textile industry has both, of tariff disadvantage with important expectation of finalising some traditional fabrics. India is actively Tthe hand-woven textile industry on markets has helped exporters of significant FTAs with Canada and involved in treading the innovative the one hand as well as the capital home textiles and garments. The Australia as well as the Regional path where some of the applications intensive mill sector on the other. The Refund of State and Central Levies Comprehensive Economic Partnership have included carbon fibre based power loom/hosiery and knitting (ROSCTL) needs to be extended to (RCEP) which may hopefully generate fabrics, micro fibre fabrics, glass fibre sector form the largest component yarns and fabrics also. Countries that more market access for the Indian textiles and super absorbent fibres. within the textiles sector. With a have facilitated cross border trade, textile industry. total of 2.6 mn looms, India Fabrics made from recycled PET movement of skilled and expert manufactures approx. 66.5 bn sq. mtr There are both internal and external bottles are being used in bed linen and manpower have benefitted by of fabrics of which about 2 bn sq. mt major challenges for the exporters. garments and innovative applications integrating into global supply chain. is from the mill sector and the Some of the internal challenges using bamboo, linen, hemp fibres etc. Exporters continue to face disabilities balance 64 bn sq. mtr is from the include high interest rates, are now becoming a trend more than a in terms of high interest rates and decentralised sector. infrastructural inadequacies at the norm. Recycling has also helped in transaction costs. Further, the duties ports / airports, inadequate amount of reducing the overall carbon footprint Fabric production in India stood at and taxes are not adequately refunded refund of taxes & duties across the globally. In a product life-cycle, any 66,515 mn sq. mtr, growing at 1 per to all the products across the value value chain and volatility in the company introducing a specific cent CAGR in the past five years. chain. The expectations of the domestic cotton prices. innovative product will always be the Woven fabric production of 48.8 bn sq exporters are that the government will leader and will gain a huge lead time mtr had the major share of 73 per Some of the external challenges continue with the export benefits or over the others till the industry as a cent, the rest being knitted fabric. include high import duties for cotton alternatively introduce some new whole is able to offer this product. However, the production of woven textiles products from India in leading schemes that are WTO compatible. fabric has grown at a CAGR of 1 per export markets as compared to lower With duty preferential access in The Govt. should also refund the cent while knitted fabric production or concessional duties on imports of many developed countries, incidence of duties and taxes which has increased at 4 CAGR. Within the similar products from competing Pakistan, Bangladesh and Vietnam are outside the purview of GST like woven fabric segment, the share of countries. Hidden subsidies and have been able to make wider petroleum / diesel duty, electricity duty, cotton fabric has increased from 46 export benefits extended to competing inroads into traditional importing cross subsidy of electricity etc. on per cent in 2012-13 to 50 per cent in nations also plays a significant role markets. Sri Lanka and Pakistan exports of yarn and fabrics as done in 2017-18, mainly at the expense of when it comes to competitiveness of have GSP+ with the EU while the case of garments and made ups. synthetic woven fabric. our products. Bangladesh has an EBA treaty Refund of all Central and State levies signed with the EU. As exporters including embedded taxes will ensure With increasing demand for casual- There is also an urgent need to focus on operate on thin margins, these duty that India exports goods and not taxes. wear and sports-wear, the preference building research, design, development
he Indian fabric market is largely textile and apparel segment. India well as for technical textiles. In Trepresented by power loom sector has the capability of becoming the addition to this, Indian industry needs which is transforming into an growth engine provided it become to eliminate the cost and logistic organised segment. The earlier competitive at global level in terms inefficiency to holds its place in the standard size of 24 looms unit is now of quality, productivity and prices. global market. considered obsolete and 96 looms India definitely holds big opportunity The Indian MMF segment is highly with airjet/ rapier technology has for its domestic market but on the fragmented in structure between become the norm with higher other hand it is complacent in the yarn, weaving /knitting, processing, efficiency and productivity under the export market which has stagnated. made-ups stages. Most of the units organised sector. Other markets like Bangladesh, are disintegrated and many of them Vietnam, etc. are growing at This transformation is complementing are MSMEs. Constant Technological enormous pace and hence India is the demand of fabric in the domestic upgradation is another important area going to face the competition and market, growing at CAGR 15 per cent. to ponder over. Latest state-of-art time has come to deal with it However, the ITMF data shows there technology, looms are highly capital Ronak Rughani appropriately. Chairman, SRTEPC is drop in the import of shuttle-less intensive. High rates of interest in looms in India in 2018. The future for The future certainly lies in India is a discouraging factor for India looks promising with the changes investments upstream both for investment. Moreover, lack of quality happening around the world in the manufacture of consumer fabrics as power and water supply which comes
52 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 under state jurisdiction is a major fabrics manufacturers work on scale be ensured by the government to Input Tax Credit on Input services etc; challenge for the weaving and and many of the varieties of fabrics encourage investment and increase Extend benefits of RoSCTL Scheme to processing segment. are readily available with them that efficiency and productivity. Scale the all the MMF textile products by make China able to deliver the orders and productivity will help us There is a need of evolution of MMF considering at least 6 per cent rate to in no time. compete globally. industry in India and participation of make exports of MMF textile large upstream players to make it Pakistan has lost its earlier edge, which Government can help the manmade products from India grow globally competitive. The Indian MMF was primarily built on higher fibre textile industry the following substantially as they will be more industry lacks the support of high-end investments in processing -mainly ways: Changing the prevailing global price-competitive globally; Increase research and product development, printing. Only advantage Pakistan has perception on the Indian MMF textile in Duty Drawback rates of the MMF where Industrial organisations and over India is the GSP facility from the value chain by way of promotion of textile products so that those Central leading academic institutions can EU which India doesn’t. Bangladesh has exports of Indian MMF textiles and taxes, which are not being currently jointly work together. Innovation leveraged favourable trade and duty encouraging formation and reimbursed through the present DBK remains the key for the success of concessions to build a strong supply establishment of “Brand Names” of rates, will be reimbursed fully; textile and fashion industry where base in garments. India’s favourable Indian textile companies globally; Include MMF & MMF yarns under customisation is becoming the new import policy form Bangladesh and GSP Interest Equalisation Scheme to Treating the textile merchant norm. In the MMF sector, there have facility from the USA and the EU are make credit available at an affordable converter exporters at par with been continuous innovations in working in favour of Bangladesh. Sri- rate and give boost to exports of manufacturer exporter as the nature various fibres particularly in polyester Lanka focuses primarily on high end Manmade Fibre and MMF yarns in of their business makes it possible to enhance the performance of the ladies’ intimate wear. the country; for them to cause manufacture of fabrics which is commercialising fast. Vietnam has emerged as the 3rd textile products suitable for export Facilitate priority sector lending rate Global companies involved in textile largest exporter of apparel in the world market by providing all inputs/raw on loans to textile segment and R&D has been more concerned on the after China and Bangladesh with $30.5 material required for manufacturing; encourage banks and financial sustainability issues. Performance bn worth of export and total T&C Organise mega events like “Textiles institutions to step up lending to based fabrics with durability and exports of $36.2 in 2018. The total India 2017” regularly on an annual genuine investors – with proper due comfort finishes are becoming the export is expected to reach $50 bn by basis to showcase the textile value diligence. Since Textiles is a matured new standard with increasing share of 2025 and it looks very realistic. chain of India as it will help India to market, fresh investments will have a MMF in the apparel. establish as a global textile sourcing payback only after 8-10 years in the India needs to work on scale and at Active Wear fabrics to support a hub and investment destination; current environment; Relook at FTAs the same time ability to serve short modern healthy lifestyle, sustainability given to our neighbouring countries runs. In a way India needs to be Extending MAI benefits to with strong efforts at preserving the for duty free imports into India and very flexible to cater to changing participants/buyers from Non-MAI eco systems and lowering the carbon tighten Country of Origin Rules -so demands in the global market. It countries/Developed Countries, as footprint are the areas where Indian that indiscriminate imports of should not shy from adopting new these countries play a major role in companies can focus on to improve average quality products do not technology and modernising the sourcing MMF textiles from India; their offerings in the marketplace. adversely impact SMEs and MSMEs industry. Government needs to Adopt fibre neutrality by placing MMF in India; Enter into PTAs with markets China is the main competitor, because ensure pro-industry policy products under a uniform GST rate as such as Turkey, Russia, Colombia, it has integrated units with very large framework with both fiscal and that of cotton. Also need to address Mexico, Brazil, etc. which can help manufacturing capabilities and the monetary concerns. Quality Power GST anomalies prevailing in the MMF India to trade with potential markets. consequent ability to offer very and water supply issue along with textile segment like refund of IGST/ attractive price. Most of the Chinese priority sector lending rate need to GST on Capital Goods and refund of
Fiber, Yarn, Fabric...
significant drop in margin. I believe serious challenge to Indian mills. GSP Bhaskar Denim is a composite mill things are settling down and would protection from the EU to these with 44 mn meter annual capacity. hope to have normalcy in coming countries also makes us less Actual production is 3 mn meters per years. Indian market payment cycle competitive. Most of the new mills month of which about 1/3rd is has sharply increased post GST were designed to work for Indian exported directly or through Indian implementation. This, coupled with domestic market. International garment exporters. Bhaskar is reduced margin is the main struggle market orientation needs to be working with all international and for the industry. To overcome this focussed. Increased garment national brands retailing in India. With situation, few things will help textile manufacturing capacity targeting a major focus on innovation and mills in India. a) Duty free import from international market in India will be of sustainability, we have partnered with Bangladesh restricted to fabric immense help for Indian mills. few upstream fibre and chemical originating from Bangladesh or India. suppliers to jointly create sustainable In terms of trends, so far as denim is b) Improved logistics between India and functional denim fabric. Product concerned, usage of alternate fibres to Bangladesh to reduce transit + launch is a continuous process. (polyester/viscose/rayon) is Subir Mukherjee export time to 4-5 days from any part We’ve come up with one international increasing. There is also a trend of Business Head – Denim of India. c) Long term cotton policy. collection every six month. Focus on going back to original simpler direct Bhaskar Industries Pvt Ltd new product development is creating As far as competition from finishes for salt-and-pepper wash value for our customers and ensuring. neighbouring countries is concerned, look. Sustainability being the core apacity built up driven by Sustainability in production process is China is becoming expensive and is focus area for many brands, new and subsidised capital has resulted in a key focus area. Reducing water and C not real challenge any more. improved dyeing and finishing gross over capacity not chemical footprint for each meter of However, fast capacity built up in methods to enable chemical and commensurate with demand growth. fabric is need of the hour. We have Bangladesh and high rupee water saving at garment washing Mills are not able to pass on input launched our unique MantraBlu devaluation in Pakistan is putting stage is of immense importance. cost increases resulting into resource efficient fabric line.
APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 53 Fiber, Yarn, Fabric...
chemicals can be the solution segments like processing, denim and towards improved textile sector. technical textiles in the medium term. In doing so it shall be the endeavour of Trend wise, up to a certain extent, the group to follow the tenet of ‘Make people are aware of the harmful effects in India’ in the true spirit and make its of fast fashion. Hence, they are contribution to the new paradigm of the switching to fabrics that are eco- Prime Minister to accelerate the friendly in nature. Sustainable fashion development of the country and bring it is gaining its importance with time. to the forefront of the comity of nations. The industry’s overall fabric It will also practice the principle of consumption is about approx.. 90 mn “zero defect to “zero effect” tonne every year, out of which polyester (environment). has its share of 40-45 mil tonne, cotton has 30 mn tonne whereas sustainable Our approach to the future emanates Manohar Samuel fabrics like Viscose has its share at Vinod Mittal from our vision, objectives and the Senior President Marketing about 5-6 mil tonne. When it comes to Director strategy. To achieve our goal, we realize Birla Cellulose – LIVA sales of sustainable garments, 3.5 cr Vinod Denim Limited that we have to maintain an equitable garments with Liva tags had been sold and working balance among the claims n terms of product quality and price, last year and the number is expected he present status of fabric mills is of all stakeholders i.e. employees, IIndia is one of the most competitive to go up to 4.5 cr in the coming year. Tsomewhat static. Slow growth in customers, suppliers, vendors, markets worldwide. The sheer talent Fabrics that are good for skin as well as demand due to demonetization and financiers and the public. This document of artisans is unmatched. Textile nature are given more preference. GST has put a break on steady growth. is to help everybody to enhance Minister Smriti Irani is expected to Fabrics made from cellulose like Unless there is positive intervention by performance standards and achieve bring some reforms in the sector in viscose, modal, etc. are future of the the govt. to correct the anomalies the results so that accelerated growth is order to get the growth in line. To generation since they are fluid, future does not look bright. Rising input achievable. As tools to accomplish this, solve the issues, better reforms in comfortable, very easy to drape and fits prices, difficulty in getting credit and we will be looking for synergy in terms of wages of the workers, better well. In terms of demand, the dullness in the market are major activities, management by objective and technology as well techniques where sustainable fabrics will have increased challenges today. The new trends in results, evaluating managerial we are saving water, using less share in the textile industry. fibres and finishes are not encouraging. performance and worker performance, Risk taking is not favoured. going for incentive base remuneration structure, keeping the morale of The competition from several Asian large textile companies, the sector is personnel high and always faster countries is adversely affecting us. So not in favourite list of financial positive management attitude towards far as mills are concerned sustained institutions and therefore credit flow labour. Above all, the country is now upgradation of quality and innovation in to textile industry is very slow. The embarking upon a new wave of process and production are the key entire value chain in this industry is economic reforms and we will be in tune areas in this.. The new Government is liquidity starved. with the new paradigm that is expected expected to revamp GST in order to to usher in many positive changes. The new trends in fibres and finishes make all areas of textile business free in fabrics are Hemp & Bamboo fibre of friction, red tape and delay. There is From an operational point of view, it is along with Polyester, Coolmax and an urgent need to slash tax rate to important to note that we follow a stretch fibre are in demand and make the industry globally competitive realistic, business oriented & creating newer trends. For and a greater provider of employment. professional approach. It is a group sustainability, we have started using because the units are promoted by As a company we are committed to recycled fibres. We have introduced extended family members, though sustainable production by being Mahesh Maheshwari products like Tencel blends/ Modal mutual help, advice & problem solving compliant of environmental and Director Blends/ Linen Blend in different effect is enabled by the group as a whole. In pollution control laws. Eight years ago Nimbark Fashions Limited with ETI and scented finishes. terms of the actual operation, each we launched Vinod Denim which is our unit is a different industrial The global competition is increasing major diversification. We are waiting t present fabric mills in India are undertaking with separately located, as international demand is not for the new budget to shape our view struggling for two major count: separately identifiable assets & A showing great improvement since about our new products. Cost of Production: In India, due to separate management. Each unit is a past 4-5 years. Indian fabric shortage of skilled labour, we are Group Vinod today is an integrated & profit centre & no gross subsidy is manufacturer needs to enhance the struggling to get desired efficiency diversified group with production attempted any time. The management productivity levels as well as and production at mills. This facilities located in Ahmedabad (India) of each & every unit is being concentrate on high quality value ultimately increases cost of area with A to Z of textile professionalized rapidly by recruiting added products. Government should production. Competiveness: Demand- manufacturing under one umbrella. The qualified engineers, CS, accounts amend its policies such that India can supply mismatch is creating selling group is currently with seven operating people, production staff, quality improve its export and be competitive. pressure and thus margins. The entities i.e. Vinod Fabrics Pvt. Ltd., controllers, marketing & sales Also, domestic demand revival is capacities with mills are increasing Vinod Denim Ltd., United Polyfab Pvt. executives etc. Each unit keeps vigil must for entire industry to move much faster than actual demand (in Ltd., Anil Exports & Vinod Cotfab Pvt. on the important promoters governing forward from its standstill position domestic as well as export markets) Ld. and Vinod Spinners Pvt. Ltd., Shiv the unit & take it as a challenge to since past 3-4 years. Also government therefore putting lot of pressure on Shakti Cotfab Pvt. Ltd. project just maximise production, productivity, should work towards improving credit prices and in-turn on profitability. started. sales & profit, following the main flow to textile industry. tennets of modern business practice. As a fabric manufacturer, we are The vision of the group is to scale We are manufacturer of value added That is why the group companies have facing several challenges including: greater heights in production, Yarn & Fabric.Our production capacity experienced sustained growth & there Productivity: Consistency in Quality & productivity, sales, technology and is approximately 15,000 MT per is absolutely no complaint from any of Production is major challenge in quality. Result steady growth year after annum in yarn and 40 lakhs mtr per the stakeholders about sharp practice fabric manufacturing. Finance: year and to become a lead player in annum in fabric. on part of the group & individual units. Because of struggling conditions of
54 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 55 Fiber, Yarn, Fabric...
industry expanded in a big way after as well as quality. The other Tencel and Recycled fibres. We have introduction of TUfs (Central distinguishing factors are speed, launched good range of products in Government scheme). Recently some innovation and flexibility. The men’s shirts and women’s tops State Governments have also tried to Government has given high priority to category. In addition our range of bi give thrust to this sector by infrastructure, employment and stretch fabrics for trousers has been introducing special packages to exports. These 3 focus areas, appreciated very well by the enable the modernisation and executed well, will be good for textile customers. expansion in the industry. industry also. Vardhman Textiles Limited was While the fragmented industry in A large portion to fashion is merging started in 1965 with just 14,000 MSME sector caters to local demand with the performance. All the brands spindles. Today we are one of the to a large extent, the large houses are now looking for performance in the largest manufacturers of yarns and have a good proportion of sales fabric. There is hardly anything woven fabrics. We are producing coming from exports as well. The conventional in the fabric ranges these close to 650 tonne per day of yarns Mukesh Bansal biggest challenge at the moment is days. We are a very sustainability and 600k per day of woven fabrics. Vice President, Vardhman decline in India’s garment export. A focussed organisation, not today but We have recently expanded our fabric big challenge is required to increase from the beginning. Environmental finishing capacity from 10 mn mtr per abric manufacturing is one of the the garment production as well as consciousness is at the core of month to 14 mn mtr. This includes Foldest industry in the world and in export from India. We are facing company’s strategy. Year on year we expansion in Solids, Yard Dyed and India. This is something very severe competition from take targets to save water & energy. Prints. Apart from this a lot of fundamental to Indian society. In India neighbouring countries in addition to These projects are a regular part of the investment has gone into creating this industry is highly fragmented. the local issues in India. The second operational reviews. In addition we are flexibility in the infrastructure to Every State has its own industry big challenge is logistics efficiency. directly funding a BCI project and we provide speed and flexibility to our structure depending upon the local However, we have to have have started increasing usage of other customers. About 40 per cent of our culture and Government policy. The international level scale of production sustainable materials like Ecovero, turnover comes from exports.
eeping user experience at the best technology. The Nadiad unit demanding some new qualities, like Kfocal point, we at Mafatlal caters to the standards of our structured dobby, blends like cotton- Industries Ltd. offer the widest range international customers such as modal and more of trend in viscose is of high quality fabrics. With the Marks and Spencer, Next, DGQA, EcoVero fabrics, sustainable fabrics, OEKO-TEX Quality Certification and GDS&D and Ordnance. While at organic fabrics etc. the ISO 9001:2008 series of quality Navsari, the state-of-the-art When we compare ourselves with standards, we have been able to composite denims manufacturing neighbouring countries like continuously meet with the every unit courses yarn manufacturing, Bangladesh and China, price wise shifting needs of our consumer. dyeing, weaving and finishing. India is not able to compete with From shirtings, suitings, denims, We are mainly doing viscose fabric, them. Bangladesh has better duty corduroys, school, corporate & cotton fabrics and blended fabrics. benefits and China pricing wise is institutional uniforms, bed & bath We produce around 35 lakh mtr per much cheaper. The Govt. of India has linen and ready-mades, each product month. Out of this 25 per cent is to do something about the textile Niresh H Anmalla at Mafatlal is an amalgamation of exported, 50 per cent is sold to market as nothing big has been done Manager- Sales & Marketing passion and research. international brands and 25 per cent for our industry in past sometime. Mafatlal Industries Ltd. to domestic market. In terms of Industry needs govt. support to boost We owe it to our mills in the State of trends, market these days is its growth globally. Gujarat, which are equipped with the
resently, the fabric mills in India are trade China lost through the US-China Extension of MEIS and increase of duty Pnot in a good shape, especially the Trade War has been absorbed by drawbacks would be great. In terms of ones within the small-scale sector. Bangladesh and Vietnam. This is due trends, these days, specialised fibres This is evident from many small fabric to cheap labour available there and a with extraordinary technical features are processing units shutting down in Delhi very pro-active government providing in demand E.g. Pima Cotton, Lurex, NCR in recent years due to reduced various types incentives for the sustainable Viscose, Anti-microbial, UV viability. However, large units or export industry. Indian fabric mills & Moisture Resistant, Bamboo fibre, etc. vertically integrated units are still should focus on reducing costs of As a company we are taking a lot of managing and will dominate the operations and try to penetrate into steps for sustainable production. We sector in the future. new markets like South America, continuously thrive to reduce our Africa or domestic India and reduce Carbon Footprint and impact on the The major challenges we are facing as the dependency on China. a fabric manufacturer are increased environment through our business costs of production, slow domestic and We expect the new government to be practices. Some of the measures we Sanjeev Malhotra global demand, instability of cotton and more pro-active in supporting the use are: Use of high quality dyes and Director raw material prices, pollution textiles industry as it is 2nd biggest auxiliaries at Low Liquor Ratio to Ambika Knits Private Limited concerns, balancing between viability employer after agriculture. Higher minimise water consumption, Use of and sustainability are some of the coordination is required between the GOTS approved dyes ensures that the major challenges being faced by us Ministry of Textiles, Agriculture, fabric is free from all harmful at the moment. Commerce, Finance & HRD in drafting substances and chemicals, using the Policies in the future. For export effluent treatment plant for waste- More than China & Pakistan, we see sector, better infrastructure for Inland water and wet scrubber to control Bangladesh and Vietnam are bigger transport of FCLs to ICDs to Ports is pollutant gas, etc. competitors at the moment. Whatever required to reduce time and costs.
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As a fabric manufacturer, we are facing on level same field with our main that lack formal waste or recycling a lot of major challenges like global competitors, Increase in draw back systems. In addition to these, lots of competition. Very fragmented industry. rates and Reduced Interest rate for research is going on in respect of Competition from other low cost Capital intensive sophisticated Mill safety textile products for producing nations is likely to intensify, sector to make production viable Defence sector. Less export orders due to reductions in and competitive. Shri Lakshmi Cotsyn Limited was inventories by global retail giants like As far as trend is concerned, incorporated in Kanpur in August, Wal-Mart, fabric exports from India are following are in good demand these 1988. Over a period of time, the at serious disadvantage as compared days. Coconut Husks: Cocona is a company undertook expansion to exports from competing countries fabric made of coconut-husk waste programmes and introduced many due to duty differentials in major from the food service industry. It is new products resulting in increase in exports markets. GSP given to ideal for athletic wear as it is the produce profile, production countries like Bangladesh, Pakistan, lightweight and breathable; Soured capacity alongwith benefits of forward Ethiopia in Europe and Canada market, Milk: Qmilch makes fabric from and backward integration and came up MP Agarwal which makes India textile products Chairman and Managing Director protein found in spoiled milk. The with new manufacturing facilities in expensive in these markets, production process results in zero Malwan, Dist: Fatehpur, Abhaypur, Shri Lakshmi Cotsyn Limited Depreciating Pakistani Rupee against waste, requires no harsh chemicals, Dist: Fatehpur, Rewari Buzurg, Dist: USD makes their product more he Indian textile industry is and uses less water than other milk- Fatehpur, Noida and Roorki competitive, The increase of Utility extremely varied, with the hand based fabrics; Wood Pulp: Naoran is (Uttrakhand). The production capacity T Cost /labour cost, and Made spun and hand woven sector at one a chemical-free leather alternative was increased with an installed in USA Policy. end of the spectrum, and the capital derived from wood pulp and recycled capacity of fabric manufacturing to the intensive sophisticated mill sector at Indian exporters face higher trade polyester. It is soft, flexible, and tune of 242 MMPA with adequate the other. The decentralised power barriers compared to countries like water-resistant; Recycled Plastic captive power generation capacity. looms/ hosiery and knitting sector Bangladesh, Vietnam and Pakistan in Bottles: Newlife is a polyester yarn The company enjoys strong form the largest section of the textile key markets such as the United States processed mechanically from 100 per relationship with Marque 500 buyers. sector. It contributes about 14 per cent (US) and the European Union (EU). cent recycled plastic bottles. Georgio We are equipped with most modern of the industrial production, 4 per cent Average tariffs levied on Indian textile Armani used it to create an eco- facilities to manufacture denim fabric, to the GBP and 11 per cent to the exports are around 5.9 per cent in the friendly gown for Livia Firth at the bottom weight fabric, wide width country’s export earnings. EU, while it is 6.2 per cent in the US, 2012 Golden Globe Awards; Repreve fabric, Terry towels, Technical textiles compared to zero per cent and 3.9 per Fibre: Unifi, a maker of Repreve The Indian textile industry sector is the such as Flex fabric, Nuclear cent on exports from Bangladesh. The recycled fibre, has launched a new second largest provider of biochemical fabric, Block out fabric, US and the EU are the world’s largest sustainable product that enables employment after agriculture and Infra-Red fabric, Carbon fabric and apparel importers and account for 60 customers and consumers to play a accordingly this sector has its other technical textile fabrics. We are per cent of total global imports role in solving the ever-growing National importance. Therefore the continuously doing research work for problem of ocean plastic. To deal future of the fabric Mills in India is very For further strengthening of this value addition in our product profile. with the root cause of ocean plastic, bright. However, it has challenges also industry we are requesting the Recently we have developed Repreve Our Ocean fibre is made when considering decentralised government to seriously pick-up the specialized ACS Coated fabric for an from bottles collected within 50 km presence of small weavers and knitted issue with Europe and negotiate with European buyer. of coastlines in countries or areas hosiery manufacturers. China on yarn and fabric so that we are
than price competitive in future also. survive in textile market. Our textile sustainable fibres and fabrics to add We are facing frequent price increase mills and exporters one and only in our production and implement as in yarns/cottons as we confirm pricing request and expectation from per buyer requirements. Sustainable with exporters 2-3 months before government for past 10 years is FTA manufacturing practices and ethical during sampling developments, but with Europe and Canada. Which itself business keeps us competitive and when order comes later on we face can increase 25 per cent approx. our makes us to achieve yearly growth price increase. So we both sit and textile exports which will be very rate of 5 per cent approx. in this discuss this price increase and much need for the industry. Presently competitive textile industry. come to amicable solution by wood based fibres are catching up in We are one of the early movers in accepting price which less impacts the market like Hemp, Lyocell, Flax, manufacturing Organic Cotton fabrics on both sides. etc., and finishes like Crinkle effect, from 2006 and we are certified with washed looks, Seer sucker effects We face very strong competition International Certifications like GOTS, have more demand. from countries like China, Sri Lanka, Fair Trade, BCI (Better Cotton), GRS Sri Kalyan Vietnam, Bangladesh etc., as they Sri Kalyan Export Private Limited is a Global Recycle Standards, Oeko-Tex, Managing Director enjoy various benefits from 30 years old company engaged in OCS and Social Audit standards like Sri Kalyan Export Pvt Ltd government and also tax free entry woven fabrics manufacturing, home SEDEX and SA 8000. We always into many countries. As per WTO textiles, bags and baby care products update ourselves in production with abric Mills in India facing an agreement Indian Government slowly etc. We have yearly 3 mn mtr of new sustainable fibres. We are Faggressive competition from our reducing all subsidy and benefits fabric production in prints, solids and presently doing Organic Cotton/ neighbouring countries making fabrics which makes further burden to textile yarn dyed. 95 per cent of our fabrics Hemp and 100 per cent Hemp at a very cheap price and exporting manufacturers. But due to their are used for exports only either for Fabrics and as well Organic Cotton/ dutyfree to many countries due to its personal commitment to quality and garments, home textiles and bags. Lyocell and 100 per cent Lyocell small country status. But India is a service each textile running steadily We are one of the leading Certified Fabrics. Recycle Cotton Fabrics and long standing player in small quantity in spite of heavy competition and Manufacturer and Exporter with Recycle Polyester Fabrics also fabric production and maintaining high research and development in GOTS, Fair Trade, Oeko-Tex, GRS, BCI, getting high enquiries presently. quality standards and timely delivery. adopting to new sustainable textile OCS, Sedex and SA 8000. We are So hope to be quantity competitive requirements only we are able to constantly looking for new
58 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 garmenting. We are considered one part of the textile business, which we of the niche products manufacturers slowly grown into denims. Now we of the garments. are vertical, we do spinning, fabrics and garments. Denim industry in India is growing at 10 per cent a year. This is my 36th year Suryalakshmi has emerged in all the in denim and I had the privilege to places of business. The company has start denim in this country. I have seen a presence in both domestic as well lots of ups and downs in the industry as exports market wherein 70-80 per and nothing will go down further. cent of our fabric production is going Probably we will be booming around in into exports. Then rest for the traders next six months. We are very much in domestic market. Sustainability is competitive as we are the best the new trend in the market. We have producers of cotton in this country and range of fabrics from 5 ounce to 50 Suketu Shah also a lot of new innovations are Sameer Kulkarni ounce. We have all the technologies LNJ Denim - Chief Executive / happening in and around India. Manager - Business Development where we have rope dyed products, sheet dyed products, and range of Business Head, RSWM Limited Market is growing by 10 percent as Suryalakshmi Cotton Mills Ltd finishes. We have a 40 mn mtr per youth is becoming more denim- annum capacity in fabrics. e are a mid-segment denim friendly. People in old age are also e are basically a vertical set- Wcompany catering to all major becoming comfortable with denims. Wup of denims. One of the The industry is struggling nowadays. brands in India. Exporting 40 per cent Application of denim in womenswear pioneers for denims in India. We are Survival of the fittest is the law now. of our product and also with the trade is also increasing. Besides, the one of the first denim mills who Govt. should try and promote more of partners across Delhi, Mumbai moment trade war between two big started rope dyeing in India initially. regional based businesses and some everywhere. We produce 2mn mtr of giants in world gets sorted we will be So, we know the denim as originality decentralized sectors. We have denim fabrics a month. We have a able to export more out of India. We that’s why we call it our strength. equally good technologies over here good range of sustainability as a would not like to do any expansion Suryalakhsmi has gone through a lot when compared to the other concept. We are also into post- now, except the value addition out of of leaps and bounds in last 15-20 countries. India has lot of potential to consumer waste fabrics, which is a the capacity which we have to years. We were stronger in spinning grow exports of garments. unique characteristic we have over become more cost conscious.
e are doing weaving to denim rend is more towards special Wprocessing to garmenting all Tfinishes and fabrics. Apart from together. We are into denims since the basics, PU coatings and resin 2007 and have recently started with finishes are in demand. Indian indigo yarns and indigo fabrics. Knit denim industry is not doing so great dobby’s are more popular in the industry nowadays. We are hopeful by at this moment. Our current production December end the situation will be capacity of denim is 3.6 mn mtr per good. We are planning to expand month. Our target is to reach 50 per our non-denim i.e. apparel fabric cent exports by 2020 March. Market is business. India is nowadays tough, demand is too high and supply is capable and versatile enough to less and trade war between US-China is face any competition in also going on. It is making scenario international market. Govt. should Rohit Bohra difficult but if your article, product and make some flexible policies to with service is perfect you through hold this Rajan Gupta Vice President (Exports) situation. In terms of manufacturing stand the industry. Future is great Sangam (India) Limited GM-Marketing because denim being a fashion item capabilities we are competitive enough KG Denim Limited is always in demand. It’s and are getting all our raw material from versatile and you can use India itself. India itself has huge it in any segment. domestic market. We expect 2020 to be good for our industry.
APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 59 Fiber, Yarn, Fabric...
and timely delivery of end product. affected. Internationally cotton There is an urgent need for more prices are down. So far India is favourable policies from the State and concerned, cotton prices are down Central Governments for the by 5 per cent. When it comes to exponential growth of this sector as govt. support, we are happy with the the sector provides major initiative they have taken like GST. contribution to employment. In order Lot of players who were not to cope up with the increasing following regular practices and demands of the customers, it is vital giving us unhealthy competition, to be accustomed with their choices that is been taken care of. So, now and offer them the best product, both it’s a level playing field for all the in terms of quality and price. To players. Growth story as far as India ensure a healthy balance between the is concerned, is definitely intact. two, certain degree of competitive With whatever macro factors we are Ajay Agarwal spirit is required from all the Indian Suryakant Shah observing right now, every chance is Executive Director fabric manufacturers. Trend wise, Managing Director there that India is going to get more Donear Industries Ltd. fabrics like stripes & structure have Textrend Lifestyle Pvt. Ltd. business from the other countries. In gained massive popularity in the textiles future is bright for all the midst the many challenges in the recent times. However, jacquards, ur main product is shirting. players. In fabric manufacturing Aprocess of fabric sourcing, the most prints are also quite in vogue these ONowadays, weaving industry is India’s main competition is China. prominent one includes delivery from the days. In terms of hues, fancy and passing through a tough phase; But we are becoming more sourcing side. Reduction in lead time is wide colour pallete is well accepted. demand is yet to pick up, like any competitive due to so many of prime importance to enable smooth other business textile is also initiatives taken by the govt.
stores. Also uncertainty in international from authentic and trustworthy vendors market in terms of policies from US, of the country. and then BREXIT is really affecting the Fashion keeps on changing. In the buying pattern of ultimate consumers outerwear segment, majorly nylon and from offline stores to online stores. The polyester are in trend. When it comes to govt. though should continue providing comparing Indian mills, in terms of the subsidies to the Bangladesh but cotton and knitted fabrics we are very should also take steps to protect strong but in polyester and nylon we are domestic garment manufacturers who not even close to China. India is very are supplying to the domestic market. strong in cottons and denims. In last six When it comes to the ultimate exports months, three-four months were lean. try to get MFN status from Europe and However, everybody has orders so we US to support our export industry. India are just trying to finish and deliver that is basically surviving because of the on time. Now, everybody is having Shashank Sachdeva value addition. Sukhmeet Singh Vice President Managing Director handsome business in their hands. In terms of manufacturing capabilities, Sachdeva Fabric World Pvt. Ltd. Daman Textiles In general context industry is doing fine. Indian fabric mills are competitive Certain on and off issues will always be enough when compared to our e are producing around 6-10 lakh ith our 14 years of rich industry there. Govt. is trying to promote Indian neighbouring countries. China is our mtr per month, which is experience, we have become a factories, production house and planning W biggest competitor but this month we W completely for exports. The current one-stop shop for an assortment of things in such a way so that Indian mills were able to get big chunk of business market scenario is really challenging for fabrics like jackets and coats fabrics, are promoted. Let’s see how the govt. from China to India by offering the Indian fabric manufacturers. Even I cotton blended fabrics, sportswear fabrics does. The major crunch the industry is competitive prices. It’s not only don’t foresee any improvement in next six and nylon as well as polyester fabrics. We facing is garment import from because of the role of fabric people but months. What I have learnt from my are specialized for our inputs from China Bangladesh. Govt. has recently made everyone from weaver, spinner and customers from abroad, that online as well as within the India boundary. some changes in the import policy from garment manufacturers. Trend wise, business has taken a huge chunk from China. Same way we want them to anything related to sustainability, We ensure 100 per cent quality in all their business. It is really challenging for make changes when it comes to organic, BCI, Oeko-tex is in demand. the fabrics as we procure raw material them as they have to close some of their Bangladesh also.
oday, fashion industry is changing so increase in customs duty and that is a customs laws are very strict so all Tdrastically that every month good part. Let’s see how Indians can these factors combined, China is something new is coming up. The new cope with all these enquiries. becoming expensive. So, India is trend is getting out and giving away competent on a very good ground. On date it’s very competitive. We are sustainable fabrics. We manufacture our giving our competitors countries tough Our Madhusudan Group is a renowned own sustainable filament based polyester competition in terms of fabric brand in the textile industry. yarn and then make fabric out of it. As the manufacturing facilities. The gap was Establishing its prominence over the generation is growing, everybody is much higher before but it is reducing market, the group has its business moving towards the sustainability every day. China is getting expensive presence spreading from yarn air movement so we have started promoting because of labour their becoming texturizing, to yarn dyeing, weaving, more of sustainable fabrics. Market expensive. They also have their very fabric processing and value addition. A scenario is not so good but still little stringent pollution norm that is why firm believer in the Fibre to Fabric, our improving for past 15-20 days. Lot of lots of factories are shutting down. company has proved its mettle as a one European, US buyers have started The supply there is cutting down. stop solution to all the textile needs. Sudarshan Mundra shifting from China to India because of Import duties have increased, Director, Madhusudan Group
60 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 Market is tough nowadays for Indian At present, fabric industry is neither denim industry. Supply is much more doing very good nor very bad. The than the demand but you have to find phase is a little tight, where we learn your niche. If you have your market what we need to put new. Nobody segmentation done right and you wants to have two or three pairs of have the right product categories to indigo denim. Everybody wants position it to them, then it is not a something new, so you have to be worry. We are supplying 50 per cent very creative to sell something new. of our production in domestic market When we talk about India’s especially Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata comparison with other countries, it’s and other areas, so we are not over not about only skills or machinery. dependent on any region. In each There’s other cost related to it i.e. segment we have categories in our what is the cost of manufacturing. product segment. So, that’s why we We have got the same machinery Aseem Chitkara are running at 80-90 per cent of our Nishant Giri what Bangladeshi and Chinese have VP - Marketing capacity. People who will work for Sr. General Manager got, same technical skills in our Ginni International Limited niche categories there is no worry for Jindal Worldwide Limited people, but Chinese have more them. People who are working for efficiency in working. Besides, power e make denims and RFT mass keep on cutting the prices, e are a textile major and our cost, labour cost are little cheaper in Wfabrics, and are doing basic, obviously there’s no need. Wcurrent capacity is 200 mn mtr over dyed and sulfur denim. No Indian per annum. Apart from denims, we are Bangladesh. That’s why they are able company has such wide variety of From govt. point of view, making bottom width, shirting, home to compete with us. infrastructure has to be developed to products what we have today. From textile fabrics etc. Even we are coming In fabrics we are very competitive support the Indian denim sector. In buyers’ point of view if you look for an up with yarn dyed fabric also. We are with Chinese and Bangladeshi. But in Bangladesh whole eco-system is opportunity of buying bottom width catering to the different countries as garment stage, they have an edge dependent on denims. Today fabric, we are there. In denims well as domestic market of India. We against us because garmenting is a Bangladesh is many a times larger particularly we have introduced six have got foothold in Europe, US, Latin totally labour intensive unit. Every exporter when compared to India. So, new collections men’s collection in America, Middle East and Far East. stitch has to be done with hands. Gas those kinds of incentives and benefits economy and premium, women’s Now we have offices in some places cost or power cost in Bangladesh is should come. Trend wise, in domestic collection ‘Charm’, economy collection also so that we can increase our cheaper. They have more skilled market its knitted denims majorly, ‘Dhoom’, premium denim collection volumes. To make our planet safe for workers than us. Combined all and in exports market it is ‘Nirvana’, Knitted collection ‘Neo’, new generation we are using factors Bangladesh is little more sustainable denims. Raw is the new sustainable denim, chemicals which are less hazardous ahead of us. then we have coloured denims. to the environment.
APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 61 Fiber, Yarn, Fabric...
use in jackets (Suits), it is getting more but demand is less. There is imported from Italy and China fabric lying in the market which has since more than 50 years. Today not been exported or consumed in sportswear garments are getting the domestic market, so it’s a good growth in sales, but we are tough time for last four months. We very poor in producing good quality expect maybe after Diwali things to of fabric which are acceptable by improve. The govt. should meet leading sportswear brand like, some fabric experts and fabric Nike, Puma, Adidas etc. Taiwan councils to take some positive has 75 per cent market share steps for the development of this globally in sportswear fabric supply industry. There is a lot fabric being and in India they are almost 90 per imported from China and cent with top sportswear brand. Bangladesh at cheaper rates. So, There are many more in textile govt. has to take some steps to Mani Kant fabric need to produce by Indian Sandeep Rohilla protect Indian fabric industry. Apart Director mills. The India mills having most President (Marketing & Sales) from yarns, our company is Bishnu Texport Pvt. Ltd. of textile machine from the EU and Bhilosa Industries Pvt. Ltd. producing around 150 tonne per day Japan, Taiwan also has same one fabrics. In terms of manufacturing abric Mills are struggling very hard or might be from China as well but n fabrics we always try and bring capabilities, Indian mills are at par Ftime to run all shift, stock level of still we don’t think to go in Isome new innovation for the with our neghbouring countries. loom stage fabric stagnant in segment which Taiwan, China or customers. Nowadays, the industry is warehouse, demand getting less and Italy are doing. Mills are more a little slow, as manufacturers are less. Some of Mills are running only interested in producing mass single shift (8 hours) due to poor production item than value added demand from end market become down item. No harm in producing mass while many spinners export cotton by 30-45 per cent compare to last 2 item but every mill should make yarn, many garment manufacturers years. Another big issue with mills are benchmark to keep 30-40 per cent have to import fabric. Therefore, fabric import from nearby countries like of their product in high end and there is a mismatch between the Vietnam, Combodia, Bangladesh, balance for mass area. two. The industry is facing a lot of Thailand and biggest supplier China. challenges today. Most of the Mills are struggling to get even If we really want to become more machinery installed in cotton mills breakeven of fabric cost due to strong and competitive, we have are outdated and need to be cheaper import. At the same time, if to adopt policy of high end quality replaced. Besides, irregular power we see mills who are doing speciality in our product basket, use new supply also hampers production. The fabric/value added fabric are not in innovative yarn/fibres and other cotton industry is facing tough trouble because availability of such accessories to make fabric unique competition from the fibre industry. and special. Mills should teach product are not easy and only few Competition in foreign market - The mills can provide that. brand about beauty of that fabric and requested them (Garment Narendra Indian cotton textile goods is facing As Indian fabric producer, who have brand) to display function of fabric Proprietor stiff competition in foreign markets excellent setup of facility should adopt Broadly on POP of garment. Big Keona Textiles from Taiwan, South Korea and Japan production of value added fabric which humble request to new Govt. to whose goods are cheaper and better goes in to high segment. By producing make all textile item under single he yarn in India is produced by in quality. It is really paradoxical that high value fabric, For example, - No GST slab, make labour law and Tsmall industries and units which in a country where wages are low mills in India are able to produce lining social security easier for largely cater to local markets. Thus, and cotton is internally available, fabric with Bemberg (Cupro Yarn) for textile workers. production costs should be so high.
Domestic Brands...
uality, variation of fabric, and just work on their profits and operate manufacturers which should help Qtimely deliveries are some of in unorganized sector. The tough them in procuring raw material, the issues which are major competition from China and other dedicated manufacturing area within challenges in fabric sourcing. countries in terms of quality and city limits and taxation. Further, to add to the above said pricing of fabric will ultimately give a Nowadays, natural fabrics are in issue, is copying of the fabric texture hit to the Indian manufacturers’ trend. Hand woven fabrics like Ikkat, and designing by the manufactures in-case they don’t change their Cotton, Linen, Rayon, Voil and which negates the hard work of way of working. Cambric are some of fabric which brand which is put into designing As stated earlier, the fabric mills are in trend and will remain so in fabrics in terms of prints, weave, should invest in R&D to make some near future. The time has come checks placements etc. innovative fabrics with good quality. when the customer is more focused The Indian fabric manufacturers are Price also plays an important role in on organic/natural fabric with are not competitive enough. The product acceptance of garment with made in a way that is high on fashion Sunil Goklani quality is major issue with most of customers. The government should with comfort. Founder the manufacturer as they tend to make some policies to support Indian Indifusion Apparels India Pvt. Ltd.
62 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 The two mills that are doing best new sky rocketed with Indian mills offering Vardhman etc. as they are cheaper in product developments are Arvind similar blends. There are few terms of cost in comparison to their Mills & to a certain extent Vardhman entrepreneur who ate textile experts international counterparts. On the as well. They showcase their new and have started their new ventures contrary, none of the Indian garment developments during the mill week tying up with Indian mills for reaching brands could foray globally for the presentation spread across two out to these brands with complete lack of product development required seasons..spring summer & autumn package since they understand the to reach out to changing Indian winter. Today, there is hardly any new DNA of each brands after heading fashionable consumer. mill setting up their base in India these established mills with their Land/electricity/labour/raw material/ owing to costly operations/set up decades of experience. The govt. min wages cost escalation will not cost involved and the diminishing ROI needs to give them some additional help the textile industry to focus and (returns on investments). Operational benefits by considering them as deliver on value added products to feasibility forces these mills to focus SMSE's as they could really compete with global mills who are on value format business and exports transform the changing fashion facets focusing only on new product Neeraj Sharma that can get them volumes to keep of the industry. developments to make a mark. Head – Product their machines running. Arvind Lifestyle Brands Ltd. Majority of the brands too are reeling Government initiatives are solicited Pressure from the brand side to keep under tremendous pressure to reduce to provide a level playing field in line he sourcing base is getting a tight control on fabric prices their cost as rental space going up with the countries like Bangladesh/ narrowed to an extent that all the discourages them to put special dramatically, lower fresh business, Vietnam/Cambodia etc. T focus on the brands requirements as consolidation of discount business organized mills are limited and is This could only happen through their quantity will always be small in across all formats, SOR( sale or approachable to all the brands. These technology up gradation and new line with other two formats discussed return model), Goods return resulting mills showcase their common incentives measure that can be above. Majority of the leading in managing inventories etc., low collections of a given season to all the passed on to this textile industry that menswear brands too will have their ROCE (Returns on capital employed) national brands thereby an element of is reeling under severe pressure and limitation to reach out to MOQ's etc. The brands are forced to reduce differentiation is not there, there could really needs a breather. Setting up involved with new product their product development costs be a cases when similar designs can smaller manufacturing units through development involving new yarns/ resulting in hardly any differentiation be seen used by two different brands skill development training fibres. The lead times for the fabric across offerings of different brands across varied price points in line with programme in rural/semi urban areas development is also not reducing, operating in the same league. Lots of the cost to MRP multiplier they can also be a good initiative for brands are tremendous pressure to Chinese mills forced to shut down for operate at. employment generation as well. The work close to the season due to environment hazard reasons, the fabrics in vogue are value added New product development at the mill changing market trends but the fabric pressure on manmade fabrics looms blends involving TENCEL/MODAL/ level involves certain costs to procure manufacturing and delivery time still large on the local brands. LINEN/XCEL/ across both menswear new yarns/fibres/finishes etc. Most of not reduced. the cases in involves procurement Too many Indian mills producing as well as womens wear garments challenges like MOQ's (Minimum order With govt. imposing anti-dumping basic fabrics to serve the global across brands for their soft hand feel qtys) to be placed with yarn/fibre duties on few yarns like linen, import requirements have made their name and drape and being light fabrics. suppliers. Hence these mills shy away has been majorly hit, with the on global maps like Raymond, Arvind, from new product developments. scarcity of this yarn, the prices have
hile Mufti has earned a compromising on the quality of the Comfort is in trend nowadays, with Wreputation in the market right fabric. It’s all a balancing act at the most workspaces approaching a since its inception 21 years ago, I end of the day and those who manage more casual work-wear culture have been involved in the business to do it successfully, separate them leading to Athleisure wear gaining for a far longer tenure and have from the rest. momentum. Linen & cotton blends witnessed the shift and along with Modal & Viscose blended Indian fabric manufacturers are transformation in the textile industry with cotton are reacquiring its competitive enough in terms of seen in the last five years. Playing a popularity in the industry. product quality and price. These key role in this above-mentioned Consequently, fabrics which are manufacturers are equipped to cater shift has been technology which breathable, comfortable providing an to domestic and the global market. has led to the rise in global inter- amazing touch and feel are the But like any other field, there is a lot connectivity, exposing those living fabrics which will work well/find of room for improvement. The right in the remotest of areas to the more takers in the future. kind of investment in research and latest trends. Kamal Khushlani development will only further help in The Indian Govt. is taking various Founder & Managing Director While sourcing fabrics, there are innovation, as that’s the key in initiatives in creating/developing MUFTI many trials faced in different today’s day and age. From brands to apparel parks in numerous Indian aspects apart from the technical buyers, everyone is in search of States to meet the rising demands of parameters like physical strength something new, something different. the market. Policies and investments and chemical compositions etc. Indian fabrics are very versatile in need to be made to focus more on Each fabric needs to be finished to nature and when it’s given the human research and development and its merit to achieve the appropriate touch, it further enhances its increase productivity. This will in turn hand feel, finish and drape. The main sophistication making it unique to our enable our manufactures in providing challenge for us is to obtain all these country. We, at Mufti, take pride in the competitive pricing required to in the necessary timeline required sourcing fabrics primarily from India place us a above our counterparts and price it correctly without pushing forth the idea of think global across the world. and source local.
APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 63 Domestic Brands...
Competition prevails in every reflects on the cost price for the sector, including the fabric and brands. There are fabric manufacturers textile industry. Every player, Indian like Arvind, Raymond, Mafatlal, KG or international is competitive Denims who offer great quality, follow enough to establish and retain its all the norms and regulations as well. position in the market. Since They are working heavily on ensuring quality and price are two most sustainability. Also, in comparison essential criteria for a product to with the international mills we feel qualify as good or bad, Indian they offer competitive pricing. manufacturers are highly However, the raw material cost competitive in these categories. needs to be controlled. On the Government initiatives pertaining sustainability front - the process and to various fabrics like wool, cotton, the raw material are cost heavy, poly-viscose, Lycra and others will hence makes it less doable for most Akash Manwani be a huge boost for the fabric Abhishek Yadav of them. To make it more Assistant Vice President industry at large. Head of Design D’Cot by Donear Spykar Lifestyle Pvt Ltd approachable the cost reductions As far as trend nowadays is need to be factored in. In terms of ost prominent challenges faced concerned, choosing the right kind inimum order quantities is an fabric trend nowadays, cotton fabrics Mduring fabric sourcing include of fabric is totally an individual’s Missue when we are looking at with high reed picks, linen and linen timely delivery from the source and choice. Therefore trends vary from smaller quantities, due to fabric quality fabrics, experimental weaves like strict quality control norms. These person to person. However, one having various levels of defects, we dobby, jacquards, cotton modals, linen factors are also important for gaining common trend that never goes out end up buying more quantity and mill modals with different constructions consumer trust and building long- of style is the trend of light-weight costs have increased with respect to and fabrics with sustainable methods term relations with them. and comfortable fabrics. raw material and labour - which used are in demand.
he challenges we are facing in especially in ladies trousers is doing Tfabric sourcing are competitive well. Fabrics industry has been bit quality and pricing against China low from last year. As far Arvind manufactured fabrics. MOQs group is concerned we are able to (Minimum Order Quantity) for increase our turnover in terms of Kidswear fast fashion, which sales. Due to market scenario, restricts brand to change the look unorganised players are shifting to of the store every 2 months. To some other businesses and trying to solve this issue, fabric mills and get away from fabric industry. the govt. should develop a channel Industry is facing cash flow issue as for brands where there is directly cash flows are not getting generated dealing with mills in small MOQs like last year. Fabric manufacturing is to provide fast fashion in kids good in India but Bangladesh and segment. When it comes to Vietnam are also giving tough Sharad Venkta competiveness, there is a long way Vinamra Mudra competition due to various benefits and MD & CEO, Toonz Retail to go when compared with China Manager Marketing, Arvind Ltd. advantages they are having over India. for Indian fabric manufacturers in (Division Ankur Textiles) However, India is doing very good in raw terms of product quality and price. e are a division of womenswear materials i.e. fabrics and yarns. Govt. In terms of fabric trends for infants Wfrom the house of Arvind. Our has reduced certain subsidies it used to wear nowadays comfort and safety main products are voiles and dress give the industry and also has increased norms are going to come into play material segment, where we are doing prices of electricity in some States. So, which are essential requirements different multifibre products such as reducing electricity rates and providing for European markets. In kidswear viscose, rayons, modals, and poly more subsidies are two demands, if the breathable fabrics and sportswear cotton blends. Besides, cotton Lycra govt. fulfills will be good for the industry. fabrics are in good demand.
ell if you talk about challenges competitive as the government has However, to be precise, there is an Wthen there are a couple of protected them with certain import immense demand for Stretch in all them. One major challenge in the duties. However, at a global scale, kinds of apparels, be it top wear or process of fabric sourcing is timely China is more competitive in products bottom. In fact, brands have moved delivery of goods from the companies like cotton shirting, knits and special their bottom wear segment to 90 per facilitating the sourcing. Observing finish fabrics. cent stretch fabrics in formal, casual strict quality check measures and denim category. This trend is Development of favourable policies also has certain implications popular not only domestically but catering to different fabrics segment in the process. globally as well. In the near future, including cotton, poly-viscose, there will be a huge demand for the It would not be wrong to say that stretch, etc. can be a motivating step stretch in top wear category too. competition is the source of growth. undertaken by the government that Knits are playing a big role in top Talking about competition, enough will help in the blooming of this wear shirts which will be a ruling competitiveness can be witnessed on sector. These days, trends are often trend in the future. Rahul Agarwal the domestic level in the fabric industry. synonymous with comfort factor. Director, GBTL Indian fabric manufacturers are quite
64 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 Garment Exporters...
Chinese mills, they are not satisfied – To provide incentives to mills to developed, we fail miserably. So a lot with anything less than 100 per cent develop performance fabrics so that needs to be done by mills in this OTIF. This is a big difference in the these fabrics are domestically category. The rating for this will be 1/10 customer centric mindset. This is available. Secondly, to allow exporters for Indian industry where as China and extremely important in case of exports duty free imports and export benefit Taiwan will easily score 9/10. as delay in fabric means delay in order, like domestic fabrics for imported Performance fabrics and prints are a which means we need to airfreight the fabrics to bring this business to India. big fashion today. For performance consignment which puts entire supply- Currently, India has zero share in this fabrics innovation is missing which I chain in losses. business. have already covered. For printed Innovation – Fabric innovation, If we talk about competitiveness of fabrics, India is the most competitive technical finishes, performance Indian fabric manufacturers, I think the place in the world. However, in terms finishes is a big area where Indian performance of mills depends on what of quality and design we’re lagging mills are not present even today. They fabric categories are we talking compared to European mills. Order Sandeep Raut need to catch up very fast as we are conventional or innovative completion on time in full is also a Chief Marketing Officer missing big business in the US market Conventional Fabrics – Yarn dyed, problem. However, I will still give 7/10 Laguna Clothing LLP because of this. Especially in men’s piece dyed and printed. Here Indian in prints for Indian textile industry for shirt which is a huge business we are mills are competitive in terms of prints. not able to compete with China quality and price. However, production eliability: It is the single biggest We are in leading of manufacturing, because these fabrics are not lead-times are 2-3 weeks higher than Rchallenge we face in the Indian supplying and exporting a wide range of available in India. Here we expect Chinese mills. They’re not trying to mill sector. OTIF (On time in full) order fancy fabrics. These fabrics are made government to make these fabrics improve on this as if an Indian completion is a great challenge. We using supreme quality threads and available in India and make these customer wants to import the Chinese work with 4-5 best mills in India for yarns, procured from the most trusted fabrics duty free and keep the export fabrics they will need to allow 2-3 shirting fabrics however we struggle vendors of the market. Our wide range benefit like domestic fabrics in the weeks for transit of fabric from China to reach 85 per cent OTIF with these of fabrics offered by us includes meanwhile. to India. The rating for Indian mills. If we go to second rung mills, embroidery fabric, digital printed fabric, Innovative fabrics – Ready for garment the OTIF figures will go down to 50-70 To solve this issue we have several fancy printed dupatta, plain fabric. dip, non-iron, cotton polyamide per cent. So professional approach to expectations from fabric mills and the These designer fabrics are highly spandex, wicking, 4 way stretch and achieve excellent order completion govt. as below: Mills – Professional appreciated by our wide client-base for others. In this category, we have no figures is missing. management, focus on perfect order their tear resistance, colour fastness, supply chain in India. So big time completion and innovation in fabric unique designs and perfect dyeing. Somewhere complacency has set in problems. Even if we try to get these with the standards. If we go to and performance finishes. Government
ajor challenges are getting the need to more customer oriented. Mright quality and on time Right now their attitude is "Take it delivery. MOQs are higher while or leave it "Especially to small buyers are looking at lesser and exporters. Government should lesser MOQs. Another challenge is promote and incentivize processing (Dyeing & Printing) of the modern mills. fabrics. Very few modern and good Indian fabric manufacturers are not process houses are currently competitive enough in terms of operating in NCR. Quality parameters product quality and price when specially Colour matching, Shade compared to others. That is why variations, controlled shrinkage are we are losing bulk business to major cause of worry. Prices are Bangladesh and Vietnam. Trend not rational. wise these days more and more Animesh Saxena Fabric mills have to be more man made fabrics, viscose modal, Raja Gupta Managing Director modernise the machinery, better fabric with texture, cotton/ wool/ Director Neetee Clothing Pvt. Ltd qualified trained technicians. They linen blends etc. are in demand. Prism Exim
we are ok. Most of the Indian iscose fabrics are more in trend rend wise prints are little slower Vright now. People have migrated Tand yarn dyed fabrics mostly manufacturers are making yarn dyed fabrics on auto looms not more from cotton to mix blended stripes are coming up. In India, the fabrics. When it comes to fabric major problem is that if something is power looms nowadays. But sudden increase of price is not sourcing, on time delivery issues are in demand next day itself its fabrics very rare because we source fabrics prices gets increased by giving acceptable. Also quality wise, only some manufacturers are directly from our reliable mills. reasons like yarn price or labour cost Quality consistency is always there. being increasing. Govt. should do conscious, not many. Besides, on time delivery is also an issue We are not behind other countries something for this and in fact for but are at par with them. Besides, the labour laws also. sometimes. Govt., should simplify the labour laws. They should be govt. should speed up the process of In terms of fabric manufacturing more flexible and industry friendly. GST refunds as capital gets blocked capabilities, when compared to our for certain time there. neighbouring countries quality wise Satish Singhal Partner Mint Impex
APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 65 Garment Exporters...
completely unorganised and without make this industry globally govt. support Indian textile industry competitive. Besides, in countries like can’t grow. In India, textile today is the Bangladesh ESI and PF are optional second largest industry after agriculture but in India it is compulsory. The providing employment to around 40 cr workers money gets deduced due to people who are directly or indirectly this and in major cases their money connected with the same. Due to no keep lying with the EPFO department proper support and strict rules, India is for years, and also they are not using unable to manufacture heavy GSM the ESI hospital facilities. The govt. fabrics for winters today. Even if it is should enroll them into their getting manufactured at some places Aysuhmaan Yojna instead. than that too in very low quantity. Besides, quality wise we are stable The labour laws should be re-written in and doing well globally. If crude export Amit Gupta a way so that product factory could be is limited or stopped than Indian Jatin Sopra Proprietor able to comply with and run at full apparel and textile trade will be Sopra International Pearl Apparels capacity. Labour laws which are better. Today several counties are followed were written so many years importing yarn and fabrics from India e have been designing high e are a 70 year old company, back, when scenario was completely and after making the final garment Wdesign fashion cloths, majorly Wand I am the third generation different. As per the rules Indian selling at lower price than us in global dresses. These days rayon crape is looking after the same. Few years garment factory worker is not allowed market. So, if crude export is stopped ruling the market. Indian fabric mills before we entered garment export to do more than 16hrs overtime in a than it will definitely help us in are competitive enough when we business. We have more than 2,000 month. So, in this case they are improving our competiveness in the compare ourselves with neighbouring people working in our company. Indian hindering him from earning extra world market. In terms of trend, these countries. Our mills are maintaining fabric industry is an unorganised money. Because of this many Indian days’ cotton and sustainable the quality consistently and giving on sector because of that you don’t know factories are running uncompliant or environment friendly fabrics are in time deliveries also. As far as whether your order will be executed are maintaining double records. good demand among buyers overseas. growth of our industry is concerned, Besides, buyers are also demanding properly on time and with perfect So, the labour laws should be relaxed duty drawback should be increased recycled fabrics nowadays. quality or not. Supply chain is and made more industry friendly to by the govt.
full of businesses who manufacture or ur company was established in a further more verification of the O1972 and doing exports since business can be made public. People 1990. Our speciality is knitted can simply buy a book and know what garments mainly womenswear. to buy and from whom much like how When we compare Indian fabric mills Facebook and Instagram verify a page with foreign mills, foreign mills are so can a central body working for the faster in supplying fabrics. Firstly, it interests of textile industry, by this takes 40-45 days here for us to get way a wall of strangeness could be fabrics in-house. Secondly, as we do broken down and new contacts can be smaller quantity it becomes difficult made for a viable future. to source on time sometimes. So, if fabric gets delayed our final product Indian fabric manufacturer are supply is also delayed. Expected lead competitive enough in terms of time to deliver a fabric should be 30 product quality and price. The Rohit Mundra Rajesh Kumar Surana days, than only we can deliver in 60- competition is high and that's what is CMO Director 65 days. So, if we’ll get fabric in 40-50 pushing everyone to come up with Shree Krishna Tex (Leela Fashions) Sabnam Exports (P) Ltd days we can’t deliver final product new designs and products, the before 90-100 days. As far as fabric competition works as a backbone of here are several challenges we quality is concerned, we always try an industry. But when it comes to Tare facing when it comes to fabric and maintain quality consistency at competing with global market we are sourcing. Lack of knowledge amongst our end. buyers is not something new in the far behind countries like China, market plus there's an atmosphere of Vietnam Even USA's costing with distrust given the many fraudulent many fabrics is cheaper than in India. odal, rayon crapes, viscose, cases that takes place very frequently We can only hope for now for a drastic Mpoly chiffons are in trend and more often makes it to headlines. change in the near future. nowadays. Occasionally, cotton also which is always there in As a buyer you always head first to the As far as fabric trends nowadays is demand. Govt. should increase people you know or friends and family concerned, cotton has been the Kingpin drawback percentage, which had as only those are the reliable people to of the textile industry but there's a new been reduced. Importation tax for know starting a business with a fabric that's replacing it and its Rayon, all the countries should also be stranger would be new in textile because of the increase in demand of reduced to boost apparel exports business. Also sustainability is a Kurtis for past 1 year and has been from India. challenge, maintaining long-term constantly increasing Rayon is the next relationships is tough with difficulties future in market as businesses are such as balancing the lead time, right shifting to manufacture rayon and deliveries is very challenging to any people are buying more and more rayon brand. To solve the issue, a contact fabrics, future looks good with Rayon Ishant Sadh book can be made available, a book and its products. CEO, S.K. Dyeing & Printing Works
66 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 67 PROMAKER - Eyeing to become world’s leading embroidery machine company in next five years
Zhejiang Promaker Intelligent Embroidery Equipment is one of fastest growing embroidery machine manufacturing company from China. Promaker determines to become the top embroidery machine factory in the world. It firmly believes that attitude decides everything, and only by focusing on the needs of customers it can make the best of its products and services. In India, the company is represented by Nitin Soni of Dolohin Jingwei Technologies for Surat region. In a short span of two years the company has become one the leading embroidery machine providers in India. To know more about the company and its further plans for India as well as world market, Apparel Views Editor Arvind Kumar, met and interviewed Fang, General Manager during his visit to their factory in China. Given are some excerpts…..
Mr. Nitin Soni, Dolohin Jingwei, Surat (C) with Mr Chen, Chairman and Mr. Fang, GM, PROMAKER
Please tell us more about Promaker? During the making frame and precision machining core spare parts, we set up Promaker, a brand full of youthful spirit, a team full of talented people who have various key designs such as installation and positioning holes, which can eliminate more than 20 years’ experience in embroidery machine industry. We believe that the error rate in manual operation and ensure the installation quality and progress, our mission is to create a sustainable intelligent embroidery machine to serve the so as to achieve the one-time installation qualification rate of 100 percent. new ecology and make continuous efforts for our customers. Our factory is very large, covering an area of about 13 FIFA standard football fields. What are the different range of machines you manufacture? We may plan to launch one-head and two head smaller machine in future. But right In order to ensure that every machine coming to customer factory has excellent now focus is on bigger (longer) industrial embroidery machines. Taking constant performance, Promaker has always implemented the work policy of giving priority innovation as the engine of developing, Promaker will provide more value-add to prevention, and has carried out systematic technical training for employees. products to customers with better service. At the same time, it has continuously improved the production environment through 5S field management, performance management and quality closed- How is this factory different than others in the market? loop management. We firmly believe that attitude decides everything, and only Promaker was founded in November 2016. We have a very advanced and by focusing on the needs of customers we can make the best of our products professional embroidery machine production line, a complete process including and services. Body Making - Shot Blasting- Body Cutting- Body Painting- Machine Assembling- Please tell us about your machinery manufacturing line? Machine Testing- Delivery Inspection- Packing and Despatching, and the maximum daily output could be 20 machines. Our production equipment is comprehensive All the body structure of Promaker are independently designed and made by and valuable, in the new factory we have invested $23 million to optimize our ourselves. We control the quality of the front surface of the body structure, and hardware. Promaker’s frame and spare parts are 100 percent completed in the use the marine anti-rust paint to spray on the body structure. We are using the precision machinery manufacturing workshop of our company, which guarantee same painting technology used by automobile industry. Machining business the quality of each machine from the source. department has 98 sets of the most advanced precision machining center in the industry, more than 40 sets of various CNC machine tools, equipped with detector, We made this factory because we wanted to make a brand in China which can be mirror analyzer equipment, spectrum analyzer, tension machine, three coordinates comparable with leading Japanese embroidery machine brands. We don’t want measuring instrument etc., which ensure body structures have strict quality control people to say that Chinese machines are of low quality, therefore our company from raw materials to finished products, endure the high precision, zero defects of attaches great importance to the machine quality. In less than two years, we are the key parts. No.4 in the industry, and the product quality has been consistently praised by customers at home and abroad. Our product quality and technology are in the We have the largest body structure production workshop in our industry, owning leading position in the industry; we wanted to be professional maker of high end a full set of equipment’s such as cutting, incision, welding, etc. our employees go embroidery machines. All of the company’s key managers are professionals who through professional training, and holding senior welder certificate, controlling have more than 20 years’ experience in embroidery machine industry. We the welding material, groove angle, protective gas mixing ratio and other technical established a new factory with the most advanced equipment, the most professional requirements strictly, which lets Promaker become the most steady high-speed technology and service team. We uphold the spirit of openness, preciseness and embroidery machine frame.
68 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 pursuit of perfection, produce better computerized embroidery machines than other high-end brands. We use high quality raw material for making good quality products. A good quality machines will last longer than its contemporary machines in the market. We give value for money to our customers.
How do you maintain the quality? Promaker is already guided by market demands and keep itself updated with innovation and technology trends to achieve the spirit of “Professional Producer.” The company integrates various advance technology of embroidery machines, persevering research and develop new products to meet customers’ demands. At the same time, Promaker apply advanced testing equipment, strictly control standards, ensure the reliability and accuracy of each machine. When we started Promaker, after two years some customers asked that this is a new brand, so how do you make sure about the quality. We asked them to visit our factory and witness the standards we have developed. Products depend on a lot of factors like design and way of production. We design completely in accordance with standardization and datafication, we invest a lot in equipment, using experienced managers and skilled workers for assembling. We have invested a lot on the most advanced equipment to ensure that we always maintain high quality modular assembly process. This reduces human being involvement and reduction in errors. Besides, we pay a lot importance to inspection. We have very quality conscious team and have one person for inspection after every process and the final make. As Promaker is a professional company, we How different is Chinese machine with Japanese machines? are more confident about next five years. We Difference is the details. I think machine from Tajima, Barudan are really very good have everything to make a good quality machine, we have to work hard to achieve their level. Besides, software is the big machine and want to be among top two difference between our and Japanese machines. In continuous runability there is not much difference. But in some high quality stitch we are still researching. We embroidery brands in the world. are making good precision of the machine body. Also we are taking care of the Mr. Fang, General Manager, PROMAKER assembling. We give 99 percent of good quality parts in the machine. We have a long way to achieve their level but we are developing very fast and now our quality is also good. In some areas we are better than Japanese machines like long
MOST MODERN MANUFACTURING EQUIPMENTS TO MAKE ZERO DEFECT MACHINES
APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 69 ASSEMBLY LINE AND R&D China, at number two in Pakistan and at number four in India. Besides, Vietnam, Cambodia are also growing markets for us.
How important is India market? Nowadays, Indian customers’ mind-set is changing as they are investing in big good quality machines instead of cheap machines. India is the most potential market right now and is very important for Promaker. Embroidery market is growing in India, geographical location for India is also better than China. But transportation is the problem as very long machines cannot be shipped there.
How do you work in India? We are planning to have Promaker India company which will have all arrangements and provide good service to customer. The main company will be co-coordinating with Promaker Surat company which will be taken care by Nitin Soni, who is our agent there. We are doing this to be closer to our Indian customers. We normally talk directly to the customers to know their feedback about our machine, dealers services and if they are satisfied or not. Customer satisfaction is most important for us. We will finalize our direct office in next three years. Now except Surat other market business is little low in India. That’s why we are looking at to appoint other agents for New Delhi market and other textile regions of the country.
How do you take care of the service part? Our technology is different from others, so at some point even our agent’s technicians don’t know the solution. So, we give them proper training every time introduce a new machine. Or they send their engineers to China for training, and our engineers also visit India every quarter. Our agent is keeping enough stock of normal and important spare parts for our machines. They will take care of the business but we have to take care of the customer satisfaction.
How has been the feedback for your products in India? We got good feedback from our customers. We also get suggestions and do R&D for them for further improvement and running machines as per their customised needs. The output of our machines is very high and the machines spare parts are of very long life so that’s why customers don’t need to keep stock and change them frequently. That is why in very short span of time we have got good share in Indian market.
How was India in terms of sales in last two years? In 2018 we sold very less quantity, just 200 machines. In 2019, until now around 300 machines have been sold. We are new to the market and our agent is just two years old for Surat market. We don’t have agents in other parts of the country like other Chinese embroidery brands. However, we are planning to appoint more agents to increase our presence in the market. machines and applications like laser etc. and others which we make and they don’t. Chinese manufacturers are already ahead in introducing more number of How has been your experience of working with your Indian agent? new innovations than Japanese. We are working with Nitin Soni from Dolphin Jingwei. He is a very good agent having very good experience working in the embroidery industry and always dealt What is your current production capacity? with quality machine. He is very understanding; Follow our style and working From making one factory to be a long lasting leading brand has to be done step by trend. He believes in capturing the market slowly and steadily, which we also step. Everything should be done before setting the target. In first year, we worked believe in. We want to support our agent and it’s a long term process. hard to introduce this machine to our customers. We had a new team, so during second year we were making 300-400 machines and giving that for testing to Where do you see Promaker after five years? customers and were taking their feedback. Now, we are ready in third year to set Now we can say that Promaker is the one of the most professional companies in proper growth targets. China in embroidery segment. Promaker choose to start embroidery business when the market was very bad but we were very confident about our own experience We don’t focus on quantity but providing good quality and customer satisfaction. and the technology. We have a standardized workshop for the whole indoor We have 256 staff as of now and can produce eight machines per day. We are not in production of embroidery machines. In China, no any other embroidery machine hurry to make agents in all parts of the world but spread gradually. We believe in enterprise can achieve the whole indoor production. Promaker is the biggest giving value for money. Now, there is very thin margin in embroidery business. We factory in China and even compared to leading Japanese brands also it has the want to give customer different kind of machines at good price and service. It is very biggest manufacturing in world. important to supply good machines as customer is investing its hard earned money into it. Based on customer feedback we keep on updating the machines. We are very confident about next five years for Promaker. Until sometime before, industry had good demand for machines, which means market was good. So, second Which are your the main markets? level companies also survived because there were more customers than For embroidery machines worldwide, India and Pakistan markets are very important. manufacturers. Also the customers who wanted to pay less went for second level China is also there but 30 per cent of China garment and textile industry share machines. But now market is slow as there are less people to buy machines. nowadays is shifting to Vietnam, Cambodia, and Myanmar due to rising manpower Competition is very high, so it depends on companies having good technologies, cost in the country. After China, India is the 2nd largest market for us. Though, in who have good arrangements and doing R&D. As Promaker is a professional company, last three years we didn’t grew much but this year we are doing well here. Among we are more confident about next five years. We have everything to make a good all embroidery brands, less than two years, we are among top four brands in quality machine and want to be among top two embroidery brands in the world
70 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 71 72 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 73 74 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 75 76 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 77 78 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019
80 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 81 82 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 83 84 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 85 Konica Minolta and True Colors teaming up to bring revolution in digital textile printing When there are ideas that can change the way industry works, creates and shares the production on a global scale, the intention of expansion to make every tiny sector or a unit a better supplier arises. And that is the exact case of the extraordinary collaboration between Konica Minolta and True Colors.
onica Minolta is a renowned Japanese brand with 44,360 employees, with sales Kand service provided into more than 160 countries, and holds a total sale of roughly `695.61 bn. Konica Minolta has been in the Indian market for a significant period of time but when they were looking for not just expansion but as their motto suggest “The essentials of Imaging” where essential word reflects our objective to provide products and services and that is the reason we have decided to carry our legacy with True Colors as they have a strong hold over multiple cities like Delhi, Mumbai, Surat, Ludhiana, Amritsar and Kolkata said the officials. We wanted to make our presence feel more impeccable, provide our esteem clientele with 100 percent of service and customer support is the reason we joined hands with True Colors to shape the future of textile printing.” Since its establishment in 1873, by making the most of its diverse technologies and innovations, Konica Minolta has been expanding its business in various fields that include office equipment, optical systems for industrial use, and diagnostic imaging system. Konica Minolta, Inc. has also been included in the Dow Jones Sustainability World Index, which is one of the most prestigious global indices of ESG investment, for seven years in a row, and was again named industry leader with the highest total score earned in the three dimensions of economic, environmental and social. True Colors Impex started its journey way back in 2011. True Color Impex is a well- known company which deals into textile machinery. True Colors is also working as an exclusive representative for the world’s leading manufacturers. If we dig at the history Nassanger 8 of digital printing in India, True Colors is the name that sets itself apart from the rest of the companies as it was the very pillar that created and made a smooth runway for the digital printing industry. The company introduced digital printing at the beginning of this era to the Indian textile industry only to change it forever. Since it was quite a fascinating and a fairly new concept the market was introduced with, True Colors went through gigantic hassle to educate the industry on what digital printing is and the plus point it has to offer and as gradually the market started understanding the need for the shift from the conventional methods of printing to digital printing, the company graph also went higher, making them leading supplier today. But what differentiates True Colors from the rest of its competition is their in-depth knowledge and research of this market over these years and because of that they tailored the machines as per the needs of the Indian textile market in terms of addition or deduction of spare parts, making the machines more effective with better runnability and results. When Sanjay Desai, Director of True Colors was asked about it, he said, “We work as a bridge between the client and the manufacturer, whether it’s a matter of a service, guidance or a support in general, we’re the closest and most aware person in the picture, and that’s what made Konica Minolta understood why this collaboration was the need of the hour.” Nassanger 10 True Colors is one of the most recognised names in the industry and forming the largest service team of service engineers led by an operations head, ensuring the smooth running of the business. And now with this global scale collaboration True Colors is all set to launch Nassanger 120, Nassanger 8 and Nassanger 10 beast into the market. Nassanger Pro 120 is a standard printer that is equipped with 8 and 9 printheads. Nassanger 120 can support the maximum fabric quality width of 1,800 mm. Nassanger 10 offers 72 and 81 inkjet printheads, while Nassanger 8 is equipped with 16 and 32 printheads. Nassanger 120 is a perfect machine for entry-level production whereas Nassanger 8 is an optimal choice for the customers who are handling medium-sized lots and Nassanger 10 is built for customers who are handling large-lot print jobs that require both volume and quality. Looking at the market fluctuation and changes in general both of the brand authorities believe that this collaboration will not just be an ordinary deal but something that will create a massive impact on the market future and will provide Nassanger PRO 120 a better direction to it
86 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 87 14th YFA Trade Show Boosts local industry by giving them exposure to trends
fter a grand show in Ludhiana the 14th edition of the Yarn, Fabric and AAccessories Trade Show concluded on 23rd Aug 2019 at Dana Mandi on Bahadurke Road in Ludhiana. The trade show proved to be a great help for knitters, weavers and garment manufacturers who were able to get a glimpse of the various yarn, fabric & trims all under one roof. On the whole, the exhibition was the hub of innovation over the three days with more than 6,000 people visiting the trade show. The Chief Guests on the first day of the trade show were Bahadur ke Road Textile and Knitwear Association head Tarun Jain Bawa, FICO Textile Division President Ajit Lakra and SHAWL CLUB President Mridula Jain. “This trade show will certainly give a boost to the local industry of Ludhiana as they will get exposure to trends in the national and international circuits,” said Ajit Lakra. The YFA exhibition was a platform where yarn manufacturers showcased their world class and qualitative products at the trade show. Manufactures displayed polyester yarns, cotton yarns, melange yarns, indigo yarns, recycled polyester staple fibre, cellulosic fibres, lycra, knitted fabrics, cotton fabrics, Athleisure, Grasim Industries Ltd (LIVA) displayed fabric and garments of five channel partners woven fabrics, shawls, labels, crystals, embroidered fabrics, laces, buttons, (Ashvira Fabrics, Swami Textiles, Monika Stoles, Vandan Silk Mills and Prisma elastics, reflective tapes, embroidery and sewing threads, dyes and chemicals, Leggings). GM Marketing Sanjeev Pathadia said, “We had different kinds of yarn dyers, trade magazines etc. on display and we’ve tried to showcase fabrics with different blends. Our display was very beneficial for manufacturers as we had came up with our five channel Manufacturers put a lot of stress on recycled yarn which is fast gaining popularity. partners, so manufacturers came and see the range of what we have in store for This trade show has proved that the future of textiles is man-made fibre. An them for the next season.” exclusive fashion show which enthralled the buyers was organised by Reliance Industries Limited with its 4 channel partners (Neva Garments, Rihanna Industries, “Exhibitions have always boosted business as it gives the different parties a Versatile Enterprises, and Parasram). The fashion show was a delight for those chance to interact in a stress free environment, which is why the yarn, fabric and who are obsessed with the quality of the clothes that they wear. Among the accessories trade show was so necessary for everyone in the industry. It is good products that were featured in the fashion show was the recycled polyester that to see that the trade show has got such a good response from not only the is made with the intent to recycle in order to save the environment. Products visitors, but also the participants,” said Wellknown Polyesters Ltd Head Marketing made with the latest nano technology were showcased too. To say the least the Ashok Modi. “The exhibition has been quite super and the experience has been fashion show was a roaring success. The purpose of the show was to generate great. We’re looking forward to the next edition,” he added. interest in the latest technology that is available in the market and the stuff that On the same note Ludhiana based Kudu Knit Process Pvt. Ltd. Director Varun can be done with it. Mittal said, “This is the second year that this tradeshow is happening in Ludhiana This show was supported by FICO (Textile Division), Bahadur K Road Textile and and it is definitely becoming a strong platform for those who benefit from it. These Knitwear Association (BKTK), Ludhiana Woollen Manufacturers Association, Shawl are tough times for the manufacturers and this platform is a very good opportunity club, Kamal, Knitwear and Textile Club, United Knits Association, Punjab dyers for interactions which will definitely boost business.” association, AEPC, and NITMA. One of the things that caught the eye of the visitors was the large variety of “In spite of the slump that the industry has been facing, it has been very encouraging recycled polyester yarn. Ludhiana based Longowalia Yarns Ltd Executive Director to see that people have come out and supported the exhibition with all their Sanjay Garg said, “We displayed wide range of yarn and fabric on display at our heart,” said organizer duo Abhishek Sharma and Ankur Goel. “It has always been stall. About 80 per cent of the yarn that we manufacture is recycled. When we our endeavour to take the message of progress and prosperity far and wide through make recycled yarn we help remove plastic from the environment and put it to our trade show that brings such vibrant variety to manufacturers and buyers of the further use.” cities where we hold the exhibition.” Participants at the Yarn, Fabric and Accessories Trade Show also said that Ludhiana “Sustainability is a major focus of the manufacturers of yarn which is why we have being a hosiery manufacturing hub is a great place for yarn manufacturers to dope dyed yarns during the process of which the consumption of water is reduced,” come and display their wares. Mumbai based Texperts’ Asit Parikh too had the said Mumbai’s Sanathan Textiles Pvt Ltd President Raj Kapadia. “In a place like same opinion. “We had displayed speciality yarn. This yarn is used for various Ludhiana where pollution is a major concern, products like the dope dyed yarn will purposed and since Ludhiana is home to the garment industry there is no doubt help conserve water. We got very good response this year and met quality buyers that they will benefit greatly from being able to sample the various options available at the show, he added.” in the market,” he said. Bhilwara’s RSWM Ltd’s Luv Jain said, “We showcased natural fibres, yarns Among the other things that were also on display at the trade show were reflective and garments that would help people understand how sustainability works. In products. Gurgaon based DM Reflective India Pvt. Ltd.’s Sandeep said, “We work these times when the cost of everything has gone up businesses may skip on with safety products especially reflective products. Reflective products work at exploring new items. So I think this platform is very good for those who want to night when light falls on it they reflect the light preventing accidents on roads. come out and see what the market is offering. In the three days of the exhibition Reflective sheets that we manufacture are used for sinages which makes them we got visitors not only from Ludhiana but from Amritsar, Panipat, Surat and all easier to see during the night. We even make reflective yarn which is used to parts of India.” stitch clothes.” With the aim to give the manufacturers and buyers of Ludhiana exposure of what The theme of the exhibition was called ‘Pavilion’ and was designed by NIIFT. The there is outside the limits of the city the trade show had brought an entire range organisers are now gearing up to hold another grand exhibition at Bhiwandi in and more right to the doorstep of the city. “We had different type of polyester yarns November 2019. The 14th edition of the Yarn, Fabric and Accessories (YFA) Trade on display and all the three days we were full of buyers,” said Filatex India Ltd Show was held in Ludhiana while previous editions were held in New Delhi, Senior President Marketing Rajiv Kasturiar. Panipat in Haryana and Ichalkaranji in Maharashtra
88 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 Forthcoming trade events
INTERNATIONAL DOMESTIC
APPAREL SOURCING PARIS VIETNAM TEXTILE & IWEAVE TEXTILE SHOW KNITWORLD INTERNATIONAL 16 – 19, September 2019 GARMENT EXHIBITION 21 – 23, September 2019 EXHIBITION Venue: Paris Le Bourget Exhibition Centre, France 20 – 23, November 2019 Venue: Codissia C Hall, Coimbatore, India 07 – 10, February 2020 Organizer: Messe Frankfurt France S.A.S. Venue: Saigon Exhibition and Convention Organizer: The Fashion Point India Venue: Bahadurke Road, Ludhiana (Punjab) Tel: +852 2238 9986 Center, Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam Tel: +91 7779981111/8002002888 Organizer: The Journal's Publication Organizer: Chan Chao Intl. Co. Ltd. Taiwan Tel: 9814020259, 161-5045061 Tel: +886-2-2659-6000 INTERTEXTILE SHANGHAI LASER WORLD OF PHOTONICS INDIA APPAREL FABRICS 17 – 19, October 2019 YARN FABRIC & ACCESSORIES 25 – 27, September 2019 THE INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION ON TEXTILE INDUSTRY Venue: Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai TRADE SHOW Venue: National Exhibition Center, Shanghai, China 25 – 28, November 2019 Organizer: Messe Muenchen India Pvt. Ltd. 06 – 08, February 2020 Organizer: Messe Frankfurt (Shanghai) Co. Ltd Venue: Shanghai New Intl. Expo Centre, China Tel: +91 22 42554773, +91 98330 30864 Venue: Anaj Mandi, GT Road, Tel: +886 2 8729 1099 Organizer: ADSALE Hong Kong Panipat, Haryana Tel: (852) 2811 8897 IITF INDIA INTL. TRADE FAIR Organizer: Vision Communications YARN EXPO – AUTUMN 14 – 27, November 2019 Tel: 9810872914, 9212707924 25 – 27, September 2019 VIEW PREMIUM SELECTION Venue: Pragati Maidan Exhibition Center, Venue: National Exhibition Center, Shanghai, China 03 – 04, December 2019 Mathura Road, New Delhi, INDIA INTL. KNIT FAIR Organizer: Messe Frankfurt (Shanghai) Co. Ltd. Venue: MVG Museum, Munich, Germany Organizer: India Trade Promotion Organisation 17 – 19, February 2020 Tel: +886 2 8729 1099 Organizer: Munich Fabric Start exhibitons Tel: +91-11-23379338 Venue: India Knit Fair Complex, Tirupur GmbH Germany Organizer: India Knit Fair Association Tirupur INTERFILIERE SHANGHAI Tel: +49 89 4522470 TECHTEXTIL Tel.: +91 421 220 0022, 98431 48777 26 – 27, September 2019 20 – 22, November 2019 Venue: Shanghai Exhibition Center, HONG KONG FASHION WEEK Venue: Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai FABRICS & ACCESSORIES FOR FALL/WINTER Shanghai, China Organizer: Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs (I) P. Ltd. TRADE SHOW 13 – 16, January 2020 Organizer: Eurovet Tel: +91 22 6144 5900, 22 6144 5990 28 February – 01 March 2020 Tel: +33 1 47 56 30 54 Venue: Hong Kong Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong Organizer: HKTDC, Hong Kong Venue: Karnataka Trade Promotion Tel: (852) 1830 668 YARN FABRIC & ACCESSORIES Organisation, Bengaluru, India CHINA INTL. SEWING MACHINERY & TRADE SHOW Organizer: SS Textile Media Private Limited ACCESSORIES SHOW YARN & FABRICS SOURCING FAIR 21 – 23, November 2019 Tel: +91 98454 46570, 93425 66532 25 – 28, September 2019 15 – 18, January 2020 Venue: Saya Grand Resort Anjur, Bhiwandi Venue: Shanghai New International Expo Venue: International Convention City Organizer: Vision Communications FASHION CONNECT Centre (SNIEC), Shanghai, China Bashundhara (ICCB), Dhaka, Bangladesh Tel: 9810872914, 9212707924 28 Feb – 01 Mar 2020 Organizer: China Sewing Machinery Association Organizer: Ask Trade & Exhibitions P. Ltd. Venue: KTPO Convention Centre, Tel: 0086-10-6521 1282 Tel: +880-2-9882475, 9882480, 9882487 SOUTH INDIA’S PREMIER TEXTILE Whitefeild, Bengaluru FAIR WEAVES 2019 Organizer: SS Textile Media Private Ltd SCREEN PRINT BANGLADESH PITTI IMMAGINE BIMBO 27 - 30, November 2019 Tel: +91 93425 66532, 98451 19893 26 – 28, September 2019 16 – 18, January 2020 Venue: Texvalley, Erode, Tamil Nadu Venue: ICCB, Dhaka Venue: Fortezza da Basso, Florence, Italy Organizer: Texvalley / CII - Southern Region GARTEX TEXPROCESS INDIA Organizer: Aditya Publication Pvt. Ltd. Organizer: PittiImmagine Italy 06 – 08, March, 2020 Tel: +39 055 3693408 Tel: +91 93626 78789, 99431 89555 Tel: +880 02 8991437 Venue: Bombay Exhibition Centre Mumbai ITMACH INDIA Organizer: Mex Exhibitions Pvt. Ltd./Messe TEXTILE FORUM - THE FASHION TEXWORLD USA Frankfurt Trade Fairs India Pvt. Ltd. 19 – 21, January 2020 05 – 08, December 2019 FABRIC SHOW LONDON Tel: + 91-11-46464848, 67575990 16 – 17, October 2019 Venue: Jacob K. Javits Center, New York, USA Venue: The Exhibition Centre, Venue: One Marylebone, London, UK Organizer: Messe Frankfurt Inc. USA Helipad Ground, Gandhinagar INTL. TEXTILE GARMENT Organizer: Linda Laderman PR Ltd UK Tel: +1 770-984-8016 Organiser: K & D ITMACH Expositions LLP MACHINERY EXHIBITION Tel: +44 7802 501913 Tel: + 91 9833977743 PITTI FILATI 86 18 – 20, June 2020 22 – 24, January 2020 GARKNIT – X Venue: Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai INTL. APPAREL & TEXTILE FAIR Venue: Fortezza da Basso, Florence, Italy Organizer: Worldex India Exhibition & 04 – 06, November 2019 06 – 08, December 2019 Organizer: PittiImmagine Italy Venue: Eco Park, New Town, Kolkata Promotion Private Limited Venue: Dubai World Trade Centre, Dubai, UAE Tel: +39 055 3693408 Tel.: +(91)-(22) 40376700 Organizer: Nihalani Events UAE Organizer: Vardaan Events Pvt Ltd Tel: +971 55 884 6186 Tel: 80235 35859, 99161 72310 TEXWORLD PARIS – SPRING FABRICS & ACCESSORIES 10 – 13, February 2020 BANGLADESH INT'L GARMENT & YARN FABRIC & ACCESSORIES TRADE SHOW Venue: Le Bourget Exhibition Centre, 23 – 25, July 2020 TEXTILE MACHINERY EXPO Paris, France TRADE SHOW 07 – 10, November 2019 18 – 20, December 2019 Venue: Pragati Maidan, New Delhi Organizer: Messe Frankfurt France S.A.S. Organizer: SS Textile Media Private Limited Venue: International Convention City Tel: +852 2238 9986 Venue: Hotel Ranbanka, Old RTO Road, Bashundhara (ICCB), Dhaka, Bangladesh Gandhi Nagar, Bhilwara, Rajasthan Tel: +91 98454 46570, 93425 66532 Organizer: RedCarpet365 Limited DHAKA INT'L TEXTILE & GARMENT Organizer: Vision Communications Tel: +88 02 8871412 MACHINERY EXHIBITION Tel: 9810872914, 9212707924 YARNEX 20 – 23, February 2020 23 – 25, July 2020 THE CHINA CLOTHING TEXTILES Venue: International Convention City GMMSA EXPO Venue: Pragati Maidan, New Delhi AND ACCESSORIES EXPO Bashundhara (ICCB), Dhaka, Bangladesh 03 – 06, January 2020 Organizer: SS Textile Media Private Limited 12 – 14, November 2019 Organizer: Chan Chao Intl. Co. Ltd. Taiwan Venue: Dana Mandi, BahadurKe Road, Ludhiana Tel: +91 98454 46570, 93425 66532 Venue: Melbourne Convention and Tel: +886-2-2659-6000 Organizer: GMMSA Exhibition Centre, Melbourne, Australia Tel: 98140-20304, 98158-23182 GARTEX TEXPROCESS INDIA Organizer: Minstar (Australia) Enterprises INTL ISTANBUL YARN FAIR 21 – 23, August 2020 Tel: 61-2-92353588 27 – 29, February 2020 GARMENT TECHNOLOGY EXPO Venue: Pragati Maidan, New Delhi Venue: Tuyap Exhibition and Convention 10 – 13, January 2020 Organizer: Mex Exhibitions Pvt. Ltd./ INTEX SOUTH ASIA, SRI LANKA Center, Büyükçekmece, Turkey Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India Pvt. Ltd. 13 – 15, November 2019 Venue: NSIC Exhibition Complex, Organizer: Tuyap Fairs & Exhibitions Tel: + 91-11-46464848, 67575990 Venue: BMICH, Colombo Organization Inc. Okhla Indl. Estate, New Delhi Organizer: Worldex India Exhibition & Promotion Tel: +90 (212) 867 11 00 Organizer: Garment Technology Expo P. Ltd. Tel: +(91)-(22) 40376700 Tel: +91-11-4160 1662 / 63, 9310029439 YARN FABRIC & ACCESSORIES MOROCCO FASHION&TEX FAIR TRADE SHOW INTEX SOUTH ASIA, BANGLADESH 25 – 28, March 2020 IIGF 2020 - AUTUMN/WINTER 27 – 29, August 2020 17 – 18, November 2019 Venue: La FoireInternationale de 20 – 22, January 2020 Venue: Dana Mandi, Ludhiana Venue: Pan Pacific Sonargaon, Dhaka Casablanca, Casablanca, Morocco Venue: Pagati Maidan, New Delhi Organizer: Vision Communications Organizer: Worldex India Exhibition & Promotion Organizer: Pyramids Fair Group Turkey Organizer: Intl. Garment Fair Association Tel: 9810872914, 9212707924 Tel: +(91)-(22) 40376700 Tel: +90 216 575 28 28 Tel: +91-11-45859001
(You are requested to reconfirm dates and other information from respective organisers prior to making your travel arrangements)
APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 89 90 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 APPAREL VIEWS / SEPTEMBER 2019 91 RNI REGD. NO. DELENG/2002/06669