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PIPERLIME TO SHUT INVISTA EVOLVES DOWN LONG LIVE LYON GLOBAL AND POLYMER PRODUCER INVISTA IS GAP INC. WILL SHUTTER EXCLUSIVITY AND CRAFTSMANSHIP ARE VITAL FOR RELAUNCHING ITS FLAGSHIP BRAND. PAGES 9 TO 14 THE WEB SITE BY THE END FIRMS TO STAY RELEVANT. PAGE 20 OF THE QUARTER. PAGE 2

SALES REMAIN STRONG Couture Shows Begin As Uncertainties Reign

By MILES SOCHA

PARIS — Couture faces a 2015 full of uncertainties except for one: High entered the New Year fi ring on all cylinders. ’s most emblematic houses, and , characterized 2014 as a record year for couture MONDAY, JANUARY 26, 2015 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY as an infl ux of younger clients from varied geogra- WWD phies, especially Asia, continue to fuel the rare and costly enterprise. Valentino cited a 50 percent bump in last year’s couture tallies, lifted in part by a Shanghai showing and sustained demand from the Middle East. Executives downplayed the likelihood of a drop in attendance due to the recent terror attacks in Paris, confi dent that the world’s most privileged women — and a slice of the world press — will converge on the The French capital for four days of shows, which opened Sunday night with Versace. “I cross my fi ngers,” said Sidney Toledano, chief executive offi cer of Dior, noting the house has re- ceived numerous messages of support and expects most fashion professionals and clients to adopt “an Big attitude of ‘no’ to terror, and we are not afraid.” Toledano was among more than a million people who marched in the French capital on Jan. 11 in a show of unity and grief for the 17 people killed at the satirical magazine Charlie Hebdo and at a kosher su- permarket. “Paris was the place to be that Sunday, Easy and it’s going to be the place to be for the couture shows,” he added. said he also expects a full turnout Designers in Paris are for his Privé show on Tuesday. “In my opinion, we thinking big: fuller pants, should be careful not to scaremonger; it would be a looser and destructive, paralyzing attitude,” he said, while not- ing that “our security team has always been ready to that are generously sized tackle any situation that may arise.” and dramatically long, often Bag checks are likely to be among heightened secu- with a Seventies vibe. At rity measures taken this couture season — as they were Lanvin, Alber Elbaz and Lucas SEE PAGE 8 Ossendrijver went for slouchy and elongated tailoring, as seen MEN’S Pricing, Swiss Franc in this streamlined COLLECTIONS . For more on the Dominate SIHH Talk men’s shows, which PARIS ended Sunday night, FALL 2015 By HAIG SIMONIAN see pages 4 to 7. GENEVA — The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, one of the world’s two premier shows alongside Baselworld in March, was always going to be a light and shadows story this year. Swiss watch exports climbed 2.3 percent to 20.4 billion Swiss francs, or $22.44 billion at average exchange, in the first 11 months of 2014 — not bad after a string of annual re- cords. And key markets have advanced, notably the U.S. But China’s increasingly important watch mar- ket is shrouded in uncertainty as its economy slows and the government cracks down on gift-giving; Hong Kong, Swiss watchmakers’ single biggest market, re- mains opaque, and and parts of the Middle East are swathed in geopolitical worries. Even closer to home, much of Europe is near stagnant amid politi- cal differences over economic austerity. If all that weren’t enough, four days before the show, the Swiss National Bank dropped a bombshell with its decision to end a three-year informal curren- cy peg against the euro, sending the Swiss franc — a traditional haven — rocketing, and Swiss watchmak- ers scratching their heads over what to do. With 14,500 dealers, reporters and other attendees all looking for answers, it took Compagnie Financière Richemont SA, the driving force behind the SIHH, some time before indicating prices for its watch and jewelry brands like Cartier and Piaget would rise by 5 to 7 percent in euros. Separately, archrival PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI Swatch Group, Baselworld’s main exhibitor, said SEE PAGE 22 2 WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 26, 2015 WWD.COM

Puig Acquires Penhaligon’s THE BRIEFING BOX seen by Lance Patterson. In July, he had been ap- By JENNIFER WEIL pointed chief executive offi cer and a member of IN TODAY’S WWD the board of directors at Cradle Holdings Ltd., PARIS — In a drive to expand its presence in pres- parent of Penhaligon’s and L’Artisan Parfumeur. tige perfumery, Puig has acquired Penhaligon’s and “This acquisition fi rmly positions Puig in the L’Artisan Parfumeur from Fox Paine & Co. LLC. growing exclusive, high-end perfumery category,” Terms of the deal, which takes effect today, the company stated. were not disclosed. With the purchase, Puig, which already holds Penhaligon’s was founded in 1870, in London, in its fragrance stable brands such as Paco and holds two Royal Warrants. Its most icon- Rabanne, Nina Ricci, and Jean ic fragrance, created in 1902 for the Duke of Paul Gaultier, also joins the sizzling race to bulk Marlborough, is Blenheim Bouquet. Penhaligon’s up muscle in the category via niche brands. has its own stores worldwide. The Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. has been lead- L’Artisan Parfumeur, dating from 1976, operates ing the charge on that front. As reported, late boutiques in France and boasts a global presence. last year, in less than one month, the company Both Penhaligon’s and L’Artisan Parfumeur snapped up tony labels Editions de Parfums will continue being run by the current team over- Frédéric Malle and Le Labo.

Alexa Chung feted her AG design collaboration in Los Angeles. For more, see WWD.com.

PVH Realigns North American Posts KEENAN/WIREIMAGE STEFANIE PHOTO BY pertise across “a unifi ed group that is dual gender By JEAN E. PALMIERI and North American-centric.” It also allows the -furnishings division to PVH CORP. has reorganized its North American better focus on the dress- and busi- Many watchmakers at SIHH decided not to pass on the full wholesale business, bringing together all of its nesses. Toward that end, the new Dress Furnishings impact of the franc’s rise to euro-zone dealers. PAGE 1 brands under a newly created underwear group Group will now oversee only those two categories. and restructuring its core dress-furnishings and David Sirkin, previously president of neckwear, Designers reveal their men’s collections in Paris. PAGE 4 brands. will now be president of dress ; Molly Yearick, The move comes on the heels of the company’s previously president of Izod, will now be president Invista is relaunching its nearly 60-year-old Lycra brand with decision earlier this month to close its 120 Izod of neckwear, and Geoff Barrett, formerly president subbrands and a new ad campaign. PAGE 9 stores in the U.S. and Canada and the continued of National Brand Sportswear, will now be presi- strength of its underwear business. dent of sportswear, overseeing all Heritage Brands Michelle Obama shines the spotlight on Bibhu Mohapatra during Effective Feb. 1, Cheryl Abel-Hodges, currently sportswear business, including Van Heusen, Izod, the fi rst couple’s trip to India. PAGE 17 president of Calvin Klein Underwear, will serve Arrow and G.H. Bass. Sirkin, Yearick and Barrett as president of the newly formed Underwear all report to Marc Schneider, group president of Curvexpo is mixing tradition with innovation, combining up-and- Group, a business unit that will include Calvin Heritage Brands. Meg Lachance, president of Van coming and well-established brands at its trade shows. PAGE 18 Klein, Tommy Hilfi ger, Michael Kors, , Izod, Heusen Retail, and Ken Wyse, president of licens- Warner’s and Olga. She will report to Ken Duane, ing, also report to Schneider. Group has signed a deal to sell The Rockport Co. for chief executive offi cer of Heritage Brands and Duane said the catalyst behind the changes North American Wholesale for PVH. in the sportswear area is for the heritage brands $280 million. PAGE 23 Reporting to Abel-Hodges will be Les Hall, presi- to better focus on the North American busi- dent of Core Intimates, who will continue to oversee ness. “Today’s PVH and yesterday’s Phillips Van ON WWD.COM Warner’s and Olga and take on the additional respon- Heusen company was built on the backs of the sibility for managing the women’s wholesale business dress-shirt business and now dress furnishings EYE ALEXA CHUNG: Alexa Chung celebrated her collaboration for Calvin Klein Underwear North America. and neckwear,” he said. “And they’re still impor- with AG in Los Angeles. For more, see WWD.com. In addition, Larry Meltzer, senior vice president tant businesses today. In the last two years, we’ve of sales and marketing for men’s in North America, taken out Bass and Izod retail, which were un- will now take on the oversight for Calvin Klein derperforming, to focus on what is performing, men’s underwear on of his continued responsi- which is Izod wholesale, Van Heusen and Arrow.” FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA bility for the Tommy Hilfi ger and Heritage Brands He said the neckwear business is “good and @ WWD.com/social businesses. He will also report to Abel-Hodges. solid,” despite some ups and downs, while he was Duane called the move to integrate all of the un- “very enthusiastic” about the dress-shirt market. TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS derwear together in one group “a no-brainer. We’re The restructuring will result in some layoffs, [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. fortunate to have a leader like Cheryl, who’s been but the number is small, according to a spokes- COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. with us for eight years. When we acquired Warnaco, woman, and does not include any executives at WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 209, NO. 16. MONDAY, JANUARY 26, 2015. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is we put her in to run the Calvin Klein Underwear the president level. She declined to provide the published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, June, August, September, October, business, and she’s done a terrifi c job, so combining number of people affected. November and December, and two additional issues in April and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Media, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 11175 Santa Monica Blvd., 9th Floor, Los Angeles, CA 90025. that with Hilfi ger and the others was a natural. ” In September, Mitchell Lechner left his job as Periodicals postage paid at Los Angeles, CA, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian Abel-Hodges added that the creation of the president of the dress-furnishings group, which addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE Underwear Group leverages the company’s ex- Duane said was unrelated to this reorganization. INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfi llment.com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Offi ce alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfi ed with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business and production correspondence to WWD, Gap to Shutter Piperlime Business 475 Fifth Ave., 15th Floor, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656, or fax request to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. For reuse permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. Gap officials on Friday indicated that To subscribe to other Fairchild Media, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. By DAVID MOIN Piperlime is the smallest brand in the company’s WWD IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND portfolio, generating under $100 million in annual TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, GAP INC. WILL close Piperlime, the Web site sales, and representing less than 1 percent of Gap OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY launched in 2006 that attempted to deliver a Inc.’s total $16 billion in revenues. A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. young, contemporary and distinctive take on “We are incredibly grateful to our fashion- fashion and that also operates one store in focused, loyal customers, and proud of our dedi- Manhattan’s SoHo neighborhood. cated employees who have been working hard Officials said Friday that Piperlime would to evolve the brand and test out new ideas,” said shut down by the end of the fi rst quarter of fi scal Peck. “We plan to keep on pushing new ideas and year 2015, with the 4,000-square-foot store at 121 forward to seeing how we can apply what Wooster Street closing by the end of February. we’ve learned to the rest of the company as we The decision to close the business will result continue to bring great products and shopping ex- in the loss of about 90 Piperlime headquarter em- periences to our customers.” ployees. “We will make every effort to ensure that Costs associated with the closing of Piperlime impacted employees are considered for any open are not material, the company said. positions within the larger Gap Inc. organization,” Some of Piperlime’s key brands recently were said a Gap Inc. spokeswoman. “We value our em- Nonoo, Elizabeth and James, Laveer, Athé by ployees and will do our best to keep them as part Vanessa Bruno, Cynthia Rowley, Drew, Elizabeth of the Gap Inc. family.” Cole, Zoe Karssen, LNA, Duffy, Karina Grimaldi, Art Peck, Gap Inc.’s incoming chief execu- DWP and Kenneth Jay Lane. tive offi cer, has been making big changes in the Last summer, Piperlime overhauled its Web company before his offi cial February start date. site by reengineering the merchandise mix, In October, Gap disclosed that he would succeed integrating social media into shopping, up- Glenn Murphy, and in November, Peck orchestrat- dating its marketing, and starting an in-house ed a management shake-up naming Jeff Kirwan Piperlime Collection. Olivia Palermo was given global president for the Gap brand and Andi a larger role on the site as a style authority, and Owen global president for Banana Republic. Gap other bloggers were added. The lime logo with Inc. operates Old Navy, Athleta and Intermix as script lettering was discarded in favor of a sub- well as Gap, Banana Republic and Piperlime. tle green all in . LAPERLA.COM

LaPerla_WWD_USA_27_01_2014_254x352.indd 1 16/12/14 17.21 4 WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 26, 2015

MEN’S COLLECTIONS Dior Lanvin Saint Givenchy Thom Homme PARIS Laurent Browne FALL 2015

Night and Day Berluti As the Paris men’s collections ended their fi ve- day run, clear trends emerged: a resurgence of evening glamour, and a return of Seventies .

Dior Homme: Many of the energized by the theme, Ossendrijver — early and photographing them for his The dozen or so women’s looks leading minds in Paris point imagining young hipsters instigators of feminized “Music Project” portfolio. Ahead were striking, laser-focused on to a more formal, polished heading to the opera on a men’s wear — here stuck to of his fall men’s show Sunday sparkly minidresses and tough- direction for men’s fashion. skateboard or bicycle. To keep traditional fabrics: olive drab night, Slimane posted a slew of minded outerwear, including a Kris Van Assche is among them warm, he concocted long for handsome licked new images on YSL’s Web site minimalist black leather them, and made an eloquent vests in technical that with leather and alpaca fl uff; and Twitter feed, showcasing 10 and a military . case for black-tie dressing resemble a removable liner. sturdy for sculptural relatively obscure French indie After the show, Saint Laurent — with helpings of modern Even dressier versions came in topcoats, the raglan sleeves artists including La Femme, tweeted that the collection was irreverence — at Dior Homme. cashmere, or the thinnest, most demarcated with topstitching. Radio Elvis and The Pirouettes. conceived in September, only a The tuxedos, dinner supple shearling imaginable. High- pants, beefy These “Paris sessions” also few months after its infl uential and that opened the The surprise was how cool cardigans and elongated informed the collection, one of psychedelic rock show. While show were immaculate, and they looked worn over or under all had an oversize the most streamlined Slimane countless designers cited the packed an emotional punch. suits. So long, ath-leisure: slouch. and T-shirts has done for the storied house. music scene as an inspiration ZZ Top famously sang, gruffl y, Hello, offi ce appropriate body- in sturdy faille also came The designer distilled the this season, Slimane keeps about the virtues of a sharp- warmer. — MILES SOCHA oversize, as they did in Lanvin’s essence of mythic Left Bank tightening his grip. — M.S. dressed man: Here, Van Assche women’s pre-fall collection. chic into the sharpest peacoats, amplifi ed the impact of his Lanvin: Nothing says dystopian Errant threads on suede the coolest leather blazers with Givenchy: Fashion groupthink, opening display with a 32-piece like an Andy Stott track. The cold- and leather coats defl ated the the faintest Western twang, magnifi ed by the rumor mill, string section lined up in the hearted “Science and Industry” precious character Lanvin’s and the leanest camel topcoats had Riccardo Tisci uprooting middle of the runway, spinning tumbled through the École des garments possess, giving them striding European runways. from Paris, switching luxury out a symphonic version of a Beaux-Arts as Lanvin’s brooding, more of a Seventies, rock ’n’ roll Every exit was grounded on camps and taking over Gucci. stirring new track by French street-cast models whisked connotation. The show climaxed pin-thin or leather pants Not only has that scenario electronic artist Koudlam. around the audience, this time with minimalist coats in leather and high-heeled , which turned out to be complete Gradually, the models accrued stacked on pyramid bleachers in bonded to Neoprene, these caused his desiccated models hogwash, Tisci broadcast his hipper accessories in addition the center of the courtyard and paired with narrow that — as gaunt and deathly pale as creative ownership of Givenchy to their bow ties — gazing upon statuary. drained into black combat boots. a Tim Burton animation — to with a powerful men’s show. caps, and silvery music The collection was strong, “Less of a and lurch awkwardly. Earlier in the Tisci has been glancing back badges plastered with real dried if drained of emotion: a more of an individual,” Elbaz week, Rick Owens caused a stir at his Givenchy career on his fl owers. Van Assche would go synopsis of the season’s news concluded backstage. “That’s by sending out models in outfi ts Instagram feed lately, perhaps on to absorb raw , beat- in its dark and moody palette; the most important thing: Not that fl ashed genitalia. Might because he’s marking a decade up leather and acid colors into the imperfect, toned-down to get lost in fashion, but to get Saint Laurent catch fl ack for at the house. “Back to the roots,” his tailoring-heavy collection. approach to luxury; and lost in translation.”— M.S. this glamorized display of the he said backstage, explaining Shapes were trim and tubular, more generous proportions in superthin? that he returned to some of the with little waist defi nition; giving outerwear and pants. Saint Laurent: Slimane also staked his original impulses that feed his a clean, contemporary line to The show opened with a once remarked that if a designer claim on the feminine touches , including his collection suits and topcoats. treatise on — another listens to the same operas in the that has defi ned his career, of religious artifacts, and his “I like to call it techno fi xation for fall — all in gray design studio, there’s a risk of wrapping sunken chests in penchant for the mystical and sartorial,” he explained backstage mélange fabrics or Prince of producing the same . sparkly fi shnet tops or sheer the macabre. They’ve reshaped before the show. “It’s sartorial, Wales and drained of Little chance of that chez . Clothes became fl ashier as Givenchy, which he has reshaped but in a sporty, contemporary military signposts but for the Saint Laurent, where rock music the show progressed, building in his image. way. These are young guys. They occasional fl ap pocket on shirt- of all stripes must blare 24/7. By from leopard-print car coats Many of the signposts of know about elegance, but they like jackets. all accounts, creative director and beaded blousons and the Tisci era were in the fall do it their way.” Creative director Alber Hedi Slimane has hungry ears, culminating with a shocking collection: the taut, muscular

Van Assche seemed Elbaz and wingman Lucas forever scouting out new pink mink coat. tailoring, this time in allover DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE BY GIANNONI; LOEWE GIOVANNI AND SMITH BY BROWNE, HERMÈS, BERLUTI GIVENCHY, DIOR HOMME, LANVIN, SAINT LAURENT, WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 26, 2015 5 WWD.COM

hand, and the sharpness of the make its way into the lineup. Thom Hermès Loewe silhouette, and this is where As for the apparel, the Browne I want to go with the brand,” designer took a plunge into Sartori explained backstage. Loewe’s archives and came back Guests arriving at the Musée with ideas for styles that oozed des Arts Décoratifs were a strong vintage feel, mostly greeted by an installation of Seventies-tinged, but that were suspended from oversize largely appropriate for today’s white balloons. The fi rst looks streets. Body-conscious knitwear on the runway were equally in multicolored pixilated weightless: They included a patterns were shown with long dark green parka made from and luscious trousers that fell laminated silk , and a lightheartedly over the house’s glossy gray trench that turned woven leather loafers, while a out to be kangaroo skin. new linenlike texture, playing Jackets and coats had a with the idea of weightlessness, little more heft, with materials was spotted on the brand’s including a cashmere fabric woven leather accessories. through with leather, but they were The collection had plenty worn casually with cardigans and going on in the outerwear instead of shirts. department: shearling appeared The color palette was on collars of butter-soft Papa eclectic, with a rich palette of aviator jackets and Japanese greens and grays complemented denim peacoats. There was a by shades inspired by Murano paper-thin from red and glass: dusty purple, sulfur navy kangaroo leather, somewhat yellow, terracotta and cobalt reminiscent of Michael Jackson’s blue. For those whose tastes run “Beat It,” as well as a roaring FOR MORE FALL more conservative, Berluti also bellow-back coat in a fresh, COVERAGE, SEE showed its fi rst all-black look. minty hue, which might have just WWD.com/ — M.S. AND J.D. as well pleased the ladies. runway. Ultimately, the collection Paul Smith: Bigger shapes are was about individual nothing new for Sir Paul Smith, statements rather than who’s been dressing rock stars prefabricated trends. since he was 18 and seen men’s — PAULINA SZMYDKE fashion expand and contract. Berluti Paul heralded a collection that But his younger staff, weaned on Thom Browne: Thom Browne Smith captured the polished mood skinny jeans, is “excited about blurred the lines between art on men’s runways with refi ned them,” he related after a fall and fashion for fall. The designer yet relaxed outfi ts that even show hinged on loping, Seventies- with a penchant for stage-set included a couple of sweatshirts tinged tailoring. Smith’s extravaganza and glamorous — though being Hermès, they statement coats were extralong theatrics wrote a theater piece were made of luxe leather. and oversize, including fl aring in two acts to go along with this Nichanian has the world’s leather macs and shearlings; season’s all-black collection. The most extravagant materials at strong-shouldered overcoats storytelling began in a pristine her fi ngertips: double-faced in blanket checks, and full-on three-room apartment: a guy cashmere, Scottish plaid furs that you could imagine only dressed in white is lying in bed wool, baby lamb and glossy on rock stars of yore. (Smith in his all-white sheets in an all- calfskin, to name just a few. But name-checked Jimmy Page white room, typewriter, teapot there was nothing stuffy about backstage, with whom he recently included — you get the idea. how she deployed them. collaborated to produce limited- He goes to his closet, takes out Unlined blazers in double- edition marking newly a black suit and the world turns faced cashmere or double-faced remastered versions of Led dark on him. wool were worn over sweaters, Zeppelin .) He basically dies, to spoil while a lime-colored cashmere The tailoring was the end. popped out against a approachable, most jackets slightly This triggers a lengthy navy pin-striped suit. A - boxy and worn over fuller fl ared funeral procession in the collared in bronze trousers. Striped silk scarves, second act with ash falling like sheepskin was perforated and colors in the persimmon rain on those who came to pay and embroidered in patterns family, fed the retro feeling. their last respects. Naturally, reminiscent of Fair Isle knits. Smith referenced the work they are all dressed in black. Shirts, when they appeared, of “It” Bauhaus couple Josef Browne employed every were worn solo, the better to and Anni Albers, including the fabric imaginable to offset the show off their curved graphic latter’s mainly geometric monochromatic nature of his panels — a design by artist designs. They were executed heavily layered numbers. Richard Gorman that also here mainly in gray and camel, and , lace and fur, silk and appears on Hermès silk squares. two breakout color stars of the traditional men’s wear fabrics Nichanian took subtle cues season. — M.S. conjured a rich and detail-driven from athleticwear with trousers lineup. The styling harked back featuring a contrasting stripe Loewe: “The fashion industry at Abraham Lincoln, but when on the inner leg, though with is so content-driven, you need taken apart, the items — most of a muted palette of plum, navy, to pace it out,” noted Jonathan which were outerwear — were ; the streetwise ragged edges and gunshot taupe and gray, these could Anderson, while guiding through actually wearable today. Browne sweatshirts, now bearing with holes — something of an barely be glimpsed. Ditto the his second collection for Spanish proposed beautifully tailored watery skull decorations, and afterthought. black cutouts on wide navy pants. leather goods maker Loewe, morning and overcoats, cropped the bold prints, magnifi ed Tisci was an instigator of The streetwear reference was which harked back at the good double-breasted tweed and Moroccan carpet motifs the coed show, and he ended more explicit, with a sweatshirt old times. “You know how you fur jackets with large exposed splashed to toe. this one by splashing the made from plum look into someone’s closet and pockets, and slim-cut suits That it didn’t all jibe carpet motifs in sequins on a crocodile, or black jogging pants nothing makes sense, but then with tapered bottoms and big seamlessly didn’t seem to matter. suite of gauzy evening in shorn mink — if the streets you start pulling out items and cuffs. Some of them were printed What registered was a rush of for her; on strong-shouldered were paved with gold, that is. ask: when did you get this? That tone-on-tone with little whales ideas, and the knack Tisci has coats and jackets for him, the — JOELLE DIDERICH was the idea. It shouldn’t be or boasted ethnic patterns when for exciting fashion shows laced shoulders cloaked in black about seasons, but edited pieces seen up close. There were even with danger and urgency. sequins like hot tar. Berluti: Alessandro Sartori is that people feel a desire for and amusing bags — one in the shape In a transparent tent lorded “It was very, very me,” Tisci knocking the stuffi ng out of that eventually come together to of a whale, the other a tortoise. over by the gilded cupola at said, declaring, “Back to square men’s tailoring. The collection form a ,” the designer But the overly long Invalides, he laid out a jagged one.”— M.S. he showed for Berluti was all explained. “performance” — and funereal pathway of red glitter that about ease, drawing from the Proving the point, Loewe pace of the show — overcame the practically trembled as the Hermès: When the lights went comfort of athleticwear with will dispatch about 25 percent quality of Brown’s collection. To Martinez Brothers unleashed down for the Hermès show at copious knits and tapered of the collection to stores guests scrambling for answers, the their rumbling beats. The La Maison de la Radio, the jogging pants. in the next few weeks, with designers replied: “It’s a romantic models whisked by in a blur of audience gazed over artfully Of course there were suits actual deliveries beginning homage to a very independent, raccoon tails, fright makeup, lit trees, skyscrapers and a aplenty, but the Italian designer in May. The speed fi ts in with very confi dent young man, who tattooed Popeye forearms — glimpse of the Eiffel Tower. kept the pants narrow and Anderson’s view that the has passed away after having and completely salable merch, Creative director Véronique stripped jackets of lining and consumer rules today — and he fi nished his life’s work.” He said including one killer camel coat Nichanian had imagined a fall shoulder pads, relying instead or she needs constant newness the sometimes feminine-looking fl ashing a red interior. lineup that was, in her own on precision pattern-cutting to to keep them interested. For mourners that were dressed in The show skewed dressy and words, “a stroll in the city.” create structure and defi nition. the fi rst time in the house’s long frocks fed into the occasional tailored, as seen on many other An opening trio of asphalt “I like the juxtaposition history, a pair of sneakers, beauty of someone’s passing. Paris runways, with streetwise gray Prince of Wales suits between the light material, the done handsomely in gray suede Voilà: Romance according to

DIOR HOMME, LANVIN, SAINT LAURENT, GIVENCHY, BROWNE, HERMÈS, BERLUTI AND SMITH BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI; LOEWE BY DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE BY GIANNONI; LOEWE GIOVANNI AND SMITH BY BROWNE, HERMÈS, BERLUTI GIVENCHY, DIOR HOMME, LANVIN, SAINT LAURENT, fare — and rugby shirts, was indeed urbane. They light construction, made by with a natural-rubber sole, will Browne. — P.S. 6 WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 26, 2015

Junya Watanabe Man: Suddenly, Junya Watanabe is the go-to Junya Ami Y-3 resource for alternative Watanabe formalwear. His fall collection Man was a hoot, disco balls spinning as a troupe of cool cats trod a red-carpet runway, occasionally busting some moves to the funky R&B soundtrack. Nodding to dapper American vocal groups from the Sixties and Seventies such as The Floaters and The Temptations, Watanabe stuck to a template of tuxedo and dinner jackets in snazzy bouclés, fuzzy knits or speckled . Plain black ones in lustrous wools or cotton were jazzed up with the Japanese designer’s treasured hobo patches, climaxing with intricate patchwork smokings that mingled denim, pinstripes, and tweeds. Raw denim or pitch-black jeans with big turn-up cuffs or satin side stripes added a funky touch, as did jean jackets occasionally layered underneath crombies. Two-tone shoes, heavy silver jewelry and pork pie polished off the retro look. For the fi nale, models doffed their jackets to show off gleaming and a host of innovative formal shirts, one with yellowed buttons demarcating the bib front. In a word: Smooth. — MILES SOCHA

Ami: It’s been a moody fall season, and Alexandre Mattiussi has joined the somber set. He staged his show in an underground parking garage to approximate a rainy night in Paris, staff dousing the “asphalt” fl oor to uphold the effect. The almost fi lmlike setting MEN’S was dark and moody, much COLLECTIONS like the collection. Backstage, the designer explained that he wanted “to get back into the PARIS street-thing again — make it FALL 2015 more sharp, more masculine, more classic again.” Although the show opened with a loose double-breasted pin-striped suit, worn over a V-neck , the collection quickly adopted a tougher edge. Adidas, had sometimes strayed A double-breasted jacket was in the lineup, they whisked leg army green trousers were Mattiussi, who has a growing too far into high-fashion territory. made from diagonal panels of through the corridors of the nifty cut with the precision of a following on the other side of “This time, I wanted to let pin-striped wool shot through new Philharmonie de Paris by martial arts blow, and his the English Channel, must have this brand come back to my with thread, while others architect Jean Nouvel. No doubt, bomber jackets with rounded heard London calling as he sent roots, so I gave the collection were skillfully twisted around they will become Instagram hits, sleeves were nothing short of out guys wearing three-quarter- the title ‘Royal Air Force,’” he the body to button slantwise. and no doubt they will make a sculptural. length pants, styled with heavy said backstage, explaining that Thick black strips of fabric, speedy segue to the streets. Utilitarian pockets applied on boots, military parkas or roomy military uniforms are designed, wrapped around a sleeve or But the collection was spread tailored jackets and shirts, or big coats and hooded sweaters. like sports clothes, for intense running along the spine of light thin on designer fashion, feeling coats with elongated sleeves and There was denim, too, from ink- physical activity. gray jackets, looked like randomly more like a contemporary line. ultragenerous collars, accentuated blue to a pale watery hue, but The fl ight theme was treated applied mourning bands. Parkas, military coats and the stiff look. The fi nale wowed otherwise strict and unadorned. fairly literally, with men’s looks After that, the collection thick intarsia sweaters, often the audience as an army of parkas A softer proposal heralded that were stripped down to veered into several directions: layered, provide great variety marched out. They were adorned a return to eclectic Parisian essentials: A khaki Neoprene dense calligraphy prints in with much commercial appeal, with digital artwork by Paolo style. Floral prints on a light fl ight jacket, a navy boiler suit, shades ranging from inky blue but it was hard to make sense Pedroni of pastel-colored manga silk shirt, as well as a big or baggy with patch to pink and red with the words of it all. Matched with heavy characters and peace doves, jacquard parka that shimmered and pocket details. These were “Born to Die” intertwined boots boasting XXL-stiches sweetening the warrior look. gold in the dark fl irted with broken up with the odd piece in within; touches of fake fur in (picture Frankenstein in “Penny — LAURENT FOLCHER questionable taste. Loosely a stylized camoufl age print. monochrome leopard and zebra Dreadful”), anti-Establishment tailored pants paired with a big Yamamoto allowed himself prints, and black-and-white London sprang to mind, just Ann Demeulemeester: Sébastien turtleneck sweater were more more latitude with the women’s illustrations on the back of before this punk bunch changed Meunier did not stray far in the vein of AMI’s elevated designs. Flight jackets were pristine white outerwear. It was into silver-foiled capes and from house codes with his basics, Mattiussi’s forte. embellished with patches of all paraded to music from the astronaut space pants. It second men’s outing since Girls appreciated it, too. shaggy gray fur, which was used all cultish fi lm “Eyes Wide Shut,” random. being offi cially named creative Unlike elsewhere on the over for a capelet with the Adidas adding to the eerie feeling. Lim called it a “tribe of director of Ann Demeulemeester. runways this season, where stripes shaved down the back. The tailoring theme individuals.” He played with puzzle feminine touches creeped into Some of the plainer military- reemerged at the end, in the “There is this idea of constructions, sending out the male wardrobe, Mattiussi’s inspired looks, such as a cinched shape of a series of beautifully protection and survival,” she said. military-fl avored coats and female cast was dressed like long black button-front coat, were constructed black jackets made “We kind of like that you can’t jackets with detachable collars men. Squelching speculation, quietly elegant, proving that from curved panels lightly tell what it is. It has a sense of and panels that were secured the designer said there would function and style are not mutually assembled to reveal glimpses of discovery in it.” And then? — P.S. with buttons and zips. be no AMI women’s collection exclusive. — JOELLE DIDERICH white underneath. They were The loose parts were used to for the time being. “I’m not the real talking points of this Juun.J: XXXXL silhouettes have add a dash of color, or bring a ready, and I feel like the girl can Comme des Garçons Homme: The eclectic display. — J.D. been the trademark for Korean sense of depth. Curly red wool dress in men’s clothes,” he said. long succession of outfi ts Rei designer Juun J for quite a lining fl ashed from a black — PAULINA SZMYDKE Kawakubo sent out were like Kenzo: Humberto Leon and while, helping him carve a niche leather cutaway vest, while a meandering conversation — Carol Lim’s latest Kenzo for extreme men’s fashion. a double-layered blue coat Y-3: Yohji Yamamoto is another by the end, you almost forgot collection was strong on visual This season was no featured a U-shaped button-front designer aiming to take his label where you started off. stimuli, which was expected. exception — except that his panel that was left half-undone. back to basics this season. The She called the collection Running the gamut from parade of military uniforms, Meunier sprinkled in Japanese designer noted Y-3, “The Power of Ceremony” and primitive scribbles to fantasy if one note, proved that the touches of the brand’s signature which he launched 12 years ago it began in formal fashion with logos and colorful smudges, designer’s vision has gained bohemian rocker aesthetic

with German sportswear maker variations on Bermuda suits. splashed on almost every look sharpness. His ultra-wide- with skinny leather pants, an DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE GIANNONI; CERUTI AND JUNN.J BY SACAI, MARGIELA GIOVANNI ASSCHE DEMEULEMEESTER, AND VAN PHOTOS BY HOMME, KENZO, AMI, Y-3, WATANABE, WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 26, 2015 7 WWD.COM

Comme des Kenzo Juun.J Sacai Garçons Homme

FOR MORE FALL COVERAGE, SEE WWD.com/ runway.

Ann Demeulemeester

Acne Maison Cerruti Kris Van A.P.C. oversize navy fur coat and Margiela Assche fl ashy red ankle boots. The self-effacing designer seems hesitant to step out of his mentor’s shadow. While respecting the brand DNA is commendable, this felt at times like a rendition of Demeulemeester’s greatest hits. — J.D.

Sacai: This season saw Sacai designer Chitose Abe strip back some of the special effects to focus on creating casual classics with a twist. There were still subtle plays on structure and textural effects, like a black sheepskin jacket worn over a vest made from the same material turned inside out. But mostly, she kept things simple. A rugged gray wool -inspired jacket with oversize breast pockets came with matching pants, while a shark- colored biker jacket was zipped running ; or sleekly feminine infl uences on men’s like prints, which he stacked one pockets of aviator bombers, or over a bulging and tailored checked wool pants wear, which at the same time on top of the other to give knitted amorphous panels of glossy paired with gray jogging bottoms. with a fl eece warm-up jacket. heralded the departure from sweaters and long, cozy scarves satin. But the show failed to A fringed chevron weave Johansson worked with mostly the house’s rough and rugged a brighter touch. The layering take fl ight with all the tricky blanket was worn as a cape English and Scottish fabrics, image of a guy. The divisiveness continued quite literally on some details and offbeat colors. over an ecru tracksuit and gold printing a men’s shirting check was a bit jarring. Yet some of of the silhouettes: picture a Items that made one sit up slides. The same fabric was on football T-shirts. In his the craftsmanship was clearly superlight cashmere turtleneck and take notice included a killer also used on hooded , freewheeling mix, Johansson outstanding. Cue a coat done covered by a crisp white T-shirt black nappa leather blouson and giving those utilitarian staples even added a touch of gender- from printed , its threads and V-neck sweater, topped by some elongated Seventies ski a decorative spin. blurring via big silver coin left unfi nished, as if it had just a Chesterfi eld coat. This was a sweaters, one carrying a nifty As in previous seasons, the and oversize spectacles. been torn out of its exquisite minimalist collection, yet rich in new take on the KVA logo. — M.S. presentation left something to — L.F. frame. — P.S. basics, done in a warm palette of be desired. A handful of seats gray and brown hues.— P.S. A.P.C.: Jean Touitou wishes men were scattered around podiums Maison Margiela: The team at Cerruti: Aldo Maria Camillo said would stop dressing uniformly. inside a Protestant church Maison Martin Margiela looked he felt the need to clean up for Kris Van Assche: Kris Van When questioned about his on Rue Saint-Honoré, where torn for fall, as the collection fall, looking for “shapes that Assche has yet to tire of the inspiration, he launched a models took turns posing still in walked the line between were simple, wearable and athletic infl uences that have diatribe against the dominant a rotating display clouded in a Seventies disco-glam and fi ne understandable.” He summed run riot over men’s wear in hipster style. haze of artifi cial fog. A publicist tailoring. On one side, one up backstage: “Clothes for recent seasons. Chalk-stripe With this collection, he periodically shooed away saw a slim, slightly elongated the real man.” The brief show trousers tapered down to tight delivered a broad choice of seated editors to make way for peacoat in shiny midnight had some sharp outerwear as elastic cuffs, giving maximum well-crafted outerwear, taking in new arrivals. — J.D. blue leather with a blush pink its main point of attraction. exposure to the Belgian aviator, bomber and navy-style , worn over slim, fl ower- Exploring the work of Joseph designer’s latest sneakers with jackets, as well as more classic Acne: “I just wanted to give men printed pants and a pair of red Beuys, the designer played with their hiking- lacing. tailored styles in fabrics like what they really like — sport and boots. On the other, the team felt, which he coated with a The tailoring was fi ne and leather, , padded satin beautiful, classic men’s wear.” went with a clean, gray, double- water-repellent fi nish on slim- youthful, patched around the and classic wool. Lumberjack With such a straightforward breasted suit and a tone-on- cut coats, somewhat reminiscent breast pocket and sleeves shirts were tucked into tailored mission, Jonny Johansson tone , for which the of traditional hunting attire. with bloblike shapes like the pants, while looks including a managed to create looks that words “calm” and “chic” both Other numbers harked back to ones produced by lava lamps. camel coat and several were cool, young and mildly sprang to mind. frocks that were belted above The same theme applied to pairs of wide pajama-style pants subversive. The match-and-mix tactics the waist and featured classic the turtlenecks underneath, had a distinct loungewear feel. Taking cues from English continued, as beautifully hats as elegant accents. offbeat colors like burgundy, While offering up little in the culture, he assembled looks tailored pleated trousers Throughout, Camillo managed air-freshener green and cement way of surprises, this collection that were part hooligan, part arrived in a loud concert with to marry Cerruti’s tailoring gray curdled together. delivered Touitou’s habitual cool gentleman farmer. Consider a glittery tops and accessories, heritage with a youthful fl air — Suits and coats also accrued contemporary vibe, and will no suit with a soccer the patterns and heeled either via slightly baggy trousers military details — the cinched doubt attract a hipster or three.

WATANABE, AMI, Y-3, HOMME, KENZO, DEMEULEMEESTER, SACAI, MARGIELA AND VAN ASSCHE PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI; CERUTI AND JUNN.J BY DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE GIANNONI; CERUTI AND JUNN.J BY SACAI, MARGIELA GIOVANNI ASSCHE DEMEULEMEESTER, AND VAN PHOTOS BY HOMME, KENZO, AMI, Y-3, WATANABE, ; a hunting coat with boots playing up this season’s and chunky or collage- sleeves and zippered utility — ALEX WYNNE 8 WWD Monday, January 26, 2015 Couture World Gets Youth Infusion {Continued from page one} ture sales have dou- “We have talents on board that at the Paris men’s shows that just ended bled, Toledano said. are able to bring about the spirit of over the weekend. “Through the couture, Schiaparelli and make it relevant for to- There continue to be question marks he’s bringing a new day’s women. As far as a new creative di- hanging over the week, though, includ- impulse to Dior with rector is concerned, it will be announced ing Russia, as a weak ruble withers the his vision of a modern later,” she said. once-mighty purchasing power of a luxu- woman,” the ceo said, Schiavone forecast “a significant ry-loving population, and whether A-list trumpeting a new gen- growth of clients as we are still a ‘new’ film and music stars might be wary of eration of thirtysome- name on the official calendar. We al- making the trip. thing clients from the ready received more requests than the Executives acknowledge that some entertainment and previous two shows.” Russian luxury clients are traveling less, technology businesses Sophie Waintraub, general manager of and there could be readjustments. who are looking for Jean Paul Gaultier — now devoted exclu- “We are not expecting a major in- alternatives to stereo- sively to high fashions following the de- crease from this nationality because it’s typical “red-carpet” signer’s swan song rtw show in October pretty clear the ruble situation is not that dressing. — said couture posted a 15 percent in- easy,” said Valentino ceo Stefano Sassi, He cited an influx crease last year. citing a 10 to 15 percent drop in Russian of clients from Asia, She called 2015 a linchpin year as client traffic in the company’s boutiques. also boosted by a Hong “Gaultier will focus his creativity on cou- By contrast, Asia is rising quickly. Kong show in 2014; ture and we are hoping to be able to grow “This nationality is paying more atten- gains in the U.S. that the business exponentially. We are plan- tion to high-level products,” Sassi said, could accelerate given ning to develop more choices crediting the region for the biggest cou- more buoyant con- within the collections.” ture increase in 2014. sumer sentiment and Waintraub highlighted strong de- Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel a strengthening dollar, mand for special-occasion couture. fashion, said the house’s business in and sustained demand “There is a distinct trend for big wed- Russia remains “still quite good,” while in the Middle East, ding dresses and what we call ‘le grand underlining that nationals are travel- where clients have soir.’ We worked on more weddings than ing less in Europe and hotel occupan- also embraced Simons’ usual in 2014,” she said, while noting the cy rates in Courchevel, an upscale ski modernist fashions. house has regulars who order daywear. destination popular with Russians, are “We have to con- Gaultier’s roving fashion retrospective lower than a year ago. tinue training people, arrives in Paris in April for a five-month According to the most recent Global because all of this run before heading to the Kunsthalle of the Blue data, Russian spending declined is not possible with- Hypo Cultural Foundation in Munich be- every month in 2014, culminating in a out the petits mains,” ginning in September. Gaultier is also plan- drop of 43.8 percent year-over-year in Toledano said, using ning events in Saint Petersburg, Russia; December, reflecting the currency woes the French term for Vienna, and the Dominican Republic. and beefed-up international sanctions. the elite seamstresses Russian couturier Ulyana Sergeenko, A sketch from the Chanel line, which will be shown in new cities this season. and tailors who realize who has staged runway the designs in Dior’s shows for her collection Avenue Montaigne ateliers. “To realize cou- since 2012, has switched ture needs a strong organization — it’s like to a presentation format in scientific research. You need new materi- the wake of the crisis. als, new techniques in embroideries and “The money we earn de- prints. You need a state-of-the-art atelier.” pends on our efforts, and Pavlovsky credited a strong and active A sketch we consider all the eco- couture organization — from the sales ef- from the nomic changes,” she told fort to the atelier — for fanning the cat- Armani Privé WWD. “We want to give our egory’s fortunes. collection. customers more privacy, at- The brand’s roving shows — having tention and provide an in- been in Dubai and Salzburg last year dividual approach.” — also lift its profile and build rela- Other tactics include tions with customers, especially among expanding “demi-couture” high-spending ready-to-wear clients who to make clients “feel more can be enticed by couture “as a kind of confident and have larger ultimate fashion,” said Pavlovsky, who choices,” Sergeenko said, credited the Middle East showcase and explaining that her costs a Dallas show in December 2013 for have doubled for fabrics growth in its American and Middle East purchased in France, Italy, couture clientele. Germany and the U.K. be- The executive revealed that Chanel cause of the weaker ruble. would take its couture collection to two “The situation is very new cities following the Tuesday show — difficult for the country,” London and Dubai — in addition to the she said. “We haven’t felt regular stops in New York, Hong Kong and the changes yet, but they Tokyo. “We have been able to give a very will definitely happen and strong visibility to this activity,” he said. affect life.” “It’s a matter of product in the end,” Armani cited “steadi- said Sassi, crediting the designer in- ness” in couture in 2014, fluence of Maria Grazia Chiuri and and said he expects to post Pierpoalo Piccioli for “a very strong mo- an increase in 2015 “even mentum for the brand.” though there are some un- Valentino plans to show its fall cou- predictable variables since ture in Rome in tandem with the opening fashion is closely linked to A print from Schiaparelli, which will have two runway shows today of a flagship, as reported. lifestyles. The biggest chal- credited to an in-house design team. Novelties of couture week include lenge is to maintain and, a showing by Italian firm La if possible, increase our presence in the age of the firm’s seamstresses and tailors Perla, and two runway shows today for market with luxury products for demand- is about six to eight years lower “compared Schiaparelli that are credited to an in- ing, high-end consumers.” to three or four years ago. We are putting house design team, a rarity in a craft Echoing Chanel, the Italian designer new people, including young people, into dominated by such acclaimed and fa- said Russian customers have been spend- the atelier. It’s the kind of job experience mous talents as Lagerfeld, Simons, ing less because of the weak ruble. “But and skills we want to keep very alive.” Armani and Jean Paul Gaultier. it is for this very reason that we wish to Executives agreed it is difficult to Schiaparelli managing director continue to invest in this market, as it is forecast couture sales for 2015, even as Camilla Schiavone said she was “ex- quite interesting for us,” he said. many houses report strong momentum. tremely satisfied” with the performance Clients from the Middle East and the “Customers are waiting to see the col- of Schiaparelli’s fall 2014 collection, its Far East purchased the highest volumes lection first, and we need to have the right second since Italian business titan Diego of couture last year, Armani said, adding environment,” said Chanel’s Pavlovsky. Della Valle revived the storied label after that “the Brazilian market is also show- To be sure, Karl Lagerfeld’s “Le a 60-year absence. ing significant signs of growth.” Courbusier goes to Versailles” collection for While many were caught off guard by While touting customers of “all age fall 2014 resonated strongly with customers, the exit of designer Marco Zanini, who groups,” Armani said the average age is ranking as Chanel’s top seller ever in unit earned mostly plaudits for his eccentric dropping, adding, “This is very interest- and value terms, with a double-digit gain. take on the house’s legacy, Schiavone said ing and it inspires me creatively.” Fashion has also fueled Dior. clients are attracted by Schiaparelli’s The youthquake is also reflected in ate- Since the arrival of Raf Simons as the iconic name, legacy and exclusive aura, liers. Valentino’s Sassi said the average house’s sixth couturier two years ago, cou- as it only markets couture. WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 26, 2015 9 WWD.COM

A colorful array of WWD SPECIAL REPORT sample Lycra fabric.

Invista Moves Lycra Ahead The global fi ber and polymer producer is relaunching its fl agship brand with market-specifi c subbrands and a new ad campaign. the most successful and well-known branded By ARTHUR FRIEDMAN ingredient products in the fashion world. In addition, Invista, one of the world’s larg- WILMINGTON, DEL. — It’s not too much of a est producers of fi bers and polymers, and its stretch to say that Invista’s marketing of its pow- Lycra brand have gone global in every aspect erhouse Lycra brand touches on the magical. of their operation, but maintain local roots That’s because Invista’s 57-year-old Lycra and production in the same neighborhood fi ber is nearly invisible as a thin where it was fi rst founded and produced. white fi lament, but emerges as a key ingredi- In an interview at Invista headquarters in ent in a fabric and its special characteristics Wilmington, Del., Dave Trerotola, president — movement, shape and comfort — come alive of Invista Apparel & Advanced , ex- when transformed into a garment. plained the company’s strategy, product mix Lycra was created by scientists in a labora- and overall approach, and its mission in tory and is constantly updated by the experts the new marketing campaign for its fl agship and technicians in a facility devoted to its de- Lycra brand. Trerotola said the goal of the velopment. The fi ber isn’t cheap, but its value- Lycra “relaunch” is to raise awareness at the added attributes continue to make it one of {Continued on page 10}

Natural Lycra fi ber being fed into a loom at the Newark, Del., facility. One of several circular machines used for product development. 10 WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 26, 2015 WWD.COM WWD SPECIAL REPORT Dave Trerotola at the Wilmington, Del., headquarters.

{Continued from page 9} trade and consumer level for the Lycra brand. “We want to gain consistency across the globe on how the prod- uct is perceived and demonstrated, and used in the marketplace,” he said. “We also really want to con- nect with a younger generation, along with our existing base. Social media and digital marketing are newer tools we’re using to reach a new audience.” Trerotola said Lycra as a brand is meant to be an “and,” or an addi- tive for its customers, not to replace their brands. “As we do this Lycra brand re- launch, part of our intent is to get the message out to our brands and retailers that we’re here to sup- port you, we’re here to create value for you and we want you to use the hangtags,” he said. “We’re looking for strategic partners. We typically lock in with brands and work with them over multiple years. We have generations of products that we work on with them, and we’re keen to continue to do that because we think we can create a lot of value for them. The better the relation- is stretch, but then there is Lycra — to do very well in the segment.” ship we have, the better the trust that provides stretch with recovery, For Lycra fi ber, close-to-the-body that we have with them. It gives us freedom of movement and other applications and segments such as an opportunity to bring more inno- qualities,” Sakuma said. “That is innerwear, swimwear and shape- vation to that particular segment.” the reason’’ why we are having a new wear are the most important, but Timeline While there are other stretch brand positioning, a new brand ar- the brand has also made inroads The 57-year-old Lycra brand has a history fi bers in the global market, espe- chitecture, a new campaign, a new in denim and other sportswear and that spans generations and companies. cially commodity-based spandex, imagery that can best articulate to ready-to-wear sectors. Trerotola said part of the brand re- consumers our brand message.” “When I think about who our 1958: Lycra spandex fi ber is invented by a team of launch is to get consumers to know The new brand architecture competitors are, I think about other scientists, originally as a replacement for rubber in the difference. has fi ve subbrands that are meant things that differentiate somebody’s corsetry. Before Lycra fi ber was invented, consumers “In my mind it’s kind of like ‘the to clearly communicate consumer garments,” he said, dressed casu- were faced with saggy, baggy, stretched and bunched real thing’ with Coke — just be- benefi ts. They are the core Lycra ally in a large conference room sur- clothes. But when DuPont scientist Joe Shiver cause something stretches doesn’t brand for comfort, freedom and rounded by images from the new perfected a revolutionary new fi ber — code named K, mean it has Lycra in it,” he said. movement; Lycra Beauty for con- Lycra campaign. “So in the active that all changed. “And so the intent here is to let trol and shaping; Lycra Sport for outdoor market, you look at some- people know that if you want the physical activity and sports; Lycra body like Gore-Tex and say they 1960s: Lycra revolutionizes the way fabrics could be best quality fabrics, it should say Xtra Life for garment resilience differentiate jackets. In ready-to- used. In beachwear, it replaced thick and heavy Lycra on it.” and durability, and Lycra Energize wear, it’s fi bers such as Tencel and with light, quick-drying garments like the . Denise Sakuma, global brand for well-being. modal that are used to differentiate and communication direc- products. Tefl on, Polartec, 1968: Members of the award-winning French Olympic tor for the Lycra Moves Primaloft — they are dif- ski team become the fi rst high-profi le sports personalities You campaign, said, “The ferentiators that call out to wear ski suits with Lycra fi ber, a trend that soon campaign process began I like to think that Lycra the performance or a qual- spread to other sports. two years ago when we ity of a product or garment, invested in trying to quali- is a fiber that’s invisible a functionality that adds to 1970s: The branded fi ber starts to make an impact on tatively and quantitatively the value of the brand.” the fashion scene, as disco fever and interest in fi tness understand what consum- Invista also studiously made leggings and fi gure-hugging the look of the ers around the globe were to the eye, but becomes tracks the sourcing pat- moment. Leggings and body-hugging jeans with Lycra are thinking about the Lycra terns of the industry and among the defi ning looks of the decade. fi ber and brand. When we visible when you wear it its customers. did the consumer research “We’ve moved as the 1972: Olympic swimmers swear by the sleek, we found out that consum- and when you move. industry has moved,” lightweight suits with Lycra fi ber. ers had very good and pos- Trerotola said. “We itive feelings about the at- — DENISE SAKUMA, INVISTA cover Bangladesh, India, 1980s: By the middle of the decade, over half of all tributes of the Lycra brand Vietnam, any place where women’s and underwear rely on Lycra. — that it was comfortable migration has happened and provided freedom of for sourcing. What we offer 1990s: The brand’s position in the sports market movement, but they really didn’t Trerotola said Lycra has his- to our customer base essentially is if strengthens through the development of hi-tech fi bers understand what Lycra was.” torically blended best with cotton they’re buying a Lycra fabric, they such as Lycra Power fabric in compression that She said it wasn’t clear to con- and , whereas has can be comfortable it’s coming from help reduce muscle fatigue. This decade also saw the sumers if Lycra was a fi ber, a fab- problems with due to heat a quality mill, it’s coming from a rising popularity of the fi ber in men’s wear. ric or a fi nish. She said when Lycra setting issues. So, Lycra developed quality dyeing facility, and cut-and- was invented by DuPont, it was the a product that was specifi cally for sew, right up their doorstep, that it’s 2003: Chemical giant DuPont changes the name of its fi rst spandex fi ber, but then after polyester compatibility, and anoth- a good product. We have people that Textiles & Interiors unit to Invista. a while, almost all garment cat- er Lycra fi ber that goes with natu- follow value-chain management. egories contained some stretch. rals such as viscose called Easy Set They call on the mill, brands, re- 2004: DuPont sells Invista to Koch Industries for In 1935, nylon was invented by Lycra. Similarly, Lycra’s T400 fi ber tailers, to make sure that our prod- $4.4 billion and merges it with its KoSa polyester DuPont chemist Wallace Hume was developed for applications ucts make it all the way through the unit, creating what at the time was an $8.4 billion Carothers as the world’s fi rst true such as denim and shirtings that re- value-chain…we track it all the way synthetic fi ber company. synthetic fi ber. DuPont built a full- quire low to moderate stretch. through to make sure that when the scale nylon plant in Seaford, Del., As for areas with most’’ growth consumer gets a product with our 2004: Lycra expands beyond apparel with licensing and began commercial production potential, Trerotola cited denim, tag on it that it’s high-quality goods partner Coty Inc. introducing Rimmel Lycra Wear, a in late 1939. Imperial Chemical shapewear and activewear, while and meets their expectations.” shock-resistant nail polish with Lycra fi ber products Industries had patented Terylene continuing to expand its market One of the key challenges of in liquid form. polyester, to which DuPont pur- share in innerwear and swimwear. that comprehensive approach is chased the U.S. rights in 1945 for “We recently came out with a that it’s expensive, so Invista has to 2004: Lycra Black fi ber puts an end to the washed-out further development. In 1950, a platform where we’ve taken our make sure that where it’s spending days of faded grays. pilot plant at the Seaford facility Lycra Beauty fabric, which is a money is creating value, that can produced Dacron fi ber with modi- certified program, and moved it translate into sales. 2007: Invista launches new innovations that deliver fi ed nylon technology. into swimwear and into denim,” Another major commitment and pampering and freshness benefi ts in garments: the Lycra Like these forerunner synthetic he said. “Activewear’s been a great what Invista considers a key to its freshFX fabric. fi bers, it has always been important market for us, partly because of the success is consumer research. to let consumers know what they balance of products we bring — “Every segment we have is al- 2014: Invista launches Lycra Moves You, a major re- bring to a garment. Lycra Sport, where we’re combin- ways looking to upgrade their con- branding effort. “It became very important to us ing Lycra with Coolmax, and our sumer research, not just for the to let consumers know that there thermo-regulation product offering {Continued on page 12}

12 WWD monday, january 26, 2015 WWD.COM WWD Special RepoRt some of our newer Assets in Asia to help us with cost position. We do have a bal- ance. But we also just recently invested {Continued from page 10} in a lab in Shanghai to be able to have United States, but around the world,” the same fiber and fabric product devel- he said. “That costs money, but it brings opment capabilities there, primarily to insights back to our customers, it drives develop the local market.” our innovation base. Today, with the num- “We’re global, operating with plants ber of fabric development labs we have all over the world that make spandex around the world, and different capabili- products, polyester-based bicomponent ties that we’ve brought into the business- products and our Coolmax product line, es, we have the ability to develop fabrics, which is a wicking fiber used primarily and several of our key marketing plat- in sportswear,” he continued. “We’re all forms like Lycra Beauty and Lycra Sport over the world. We’re engaged in essen- are fabric-based, so we actually have a tially the entire value chain of apparel certification around the fabric that has and what I think our place is in that to do with the construction and perfor- world is that we’re able to create value mance aspects of the fabrics. for the consumer and for brands and re- “We have also patented several de- tailers, and to the degree that we create signs that do certain things in functional- value, obviously we’re going to be able to ity, shapewear products, for example, ho- create value ourselves.” siery,” he continued. “So we’re working With major fiber and fabric brands through from the polymers that go into including Lycra, Coolmax, , the to garment design. So when we Stainmaster and Antron, Invista operates think about innovation, we want to take in more than 20 countries and has about the consumer insights and use a whole 10,000 employees. toolbox to solve consumer needs.” Trerotola, who has helmed Invista for Sakuma, who noted that the re-branding more than six years, said he was always campaign started in July at the trade level told that all aspects of the industry body and in the new year will move through the were driven by price point. supply chain to fabric mills, brands, retail- “Then the successful companies er and consumers, said that approach is at started shattering the price points — the heart of the Lycra re-branding. the Lululemons, the Under Armours “The Lycra Moves You theme came — people that have brought innovation about because consumers associate products to the consumer that basically Lycra with freedom of movement, along delighted the consumer and took care with comfort and quality,” she said. “At of a need they had,” he said. “For us, the trade level, the Lycra brand can innovation really comes to pennies per move business, can move design, can garment to utilize the relationship with move fashion and can move innovation. Invista. The payoff can be many mul- At the consumer level, we want to be tiples of that.” very personal and say Lycra Moves Me, Trerotola said Invista’s place in the Lycra Moves You.” market is driven by its special prod- While in the U.S., still-life images uct mix, history and its ownership by drive the marketing, there are TV com- Koch Industries, based in Witchita, Kan. mercials in the growing markets of Brazil According to Forbes, Koch is the second- and China. The 3-D effect of the photog- largest privately held company in the raphy and commercials have a theme of U.S. with annual sales of $120 billion. a “trail of the fiber,” meant to convey that “As the leader of this business, I “Lycra is the fiber that moves with you think about long-term value creation throughout your lifestyle, from active- and to continue to improve the earnings wear, to your office wardrobe, to when coming from this business,” Trerotola you go to sleep, that Lycra frees you, lib- said. “Like anybody else in the Koch erates you, moves like your second skin, Industries group, that’s the objective. I gives you freedom to express.” try to put things in a long-term perspec- “The commercial’s emotional message tive, so if I’m making an investment in is that what is inside is what moves you, a brand, I’m doing it with the idea that what motivates a person, just like Lycra it’s going to create value for me over fiber is inside the fabric and it can move the next 10 years. We want to gain mar- you,” she added. ket share globally, and we have been The campaign was created and pro- doing that over the last couple of years. duced by the SapientNitro agency and We want to expand the product offering shot by acclaimed photographer Rankin, and the reach that we have. Last year, we with the commercials created by film di- bought Advansa in Europe, which made rector Philippe André. The campaign our Coolmax business global, but also has already received a British Arrows brought in some new technology and ca- Craft Award for best computer-generat- pability. So we don’t just want to grow in- ed imagery and a Cyclops award for best ternally, but are also seeking acquisitions 3-D animation. that will build on our offering.” Starting this month, the business-to- Trerotola said Invista represents consumer Web site, lycra.com, has been about 10 percent of Koch’s business, put- relaunched to focus on the new cam- ting its annual sales at about $12 billion. paign, while the business-to-business But he feels Invista’s contribution to site, connect.lycra.com, services mills, Koch is more significant than that. brands and retailers. Chemical giant DuPont changed the “I like to think that Lycra is a fiber name of its Textiles & Interiors unit that’s invisible to the eye, but becomes to Invista in 2003. In 2004, DuPont sold visible when you wear it and when you Invista to Koch for $4.4 billion in cash move,” Sakuma said. and merged it with its KoSa polyester From the second quarter through the unit, creating what at the time was an end of the year, Lycra Moves You and the $8.4 billion company. subbrand marketing will roll out at retail “Koch reinvests 90 cents of every starting with legwear and innerwear, then Images from the Lycra Moves You campaign. dollar back into the businesses or into moving through to all apparel categories. acquisitions, and they’ve been very suc- In a broader sense, Trerotola said technically capable assets in Ireland and allowing Waynesboro to produce 40 mil- cessful using their market-based man- the state of the apparel industry today is Waynesboro, Va. Those plants have be- lion pounds annually after 1958. agement business philosophy,” he said. such that the growth rate in developing come highly specialized and they make By 1960, as acetate demand waned, a “Compared to where we were 10 years countries is still fairly substantial, but high-end, new, innovative products. replacement was in the wings. DuPont had ago, the people that I work with are bet- in the Western world — Western Europe We’re also able to protect the intellectual been developing a new fiber and decided ter business people. They learned a lot and North America — the growth rate av- property we develop there. Waynesboro to use Waynesboro’s Orlon spinning cells from Koch Industries and the way Koch erage is fairly low. happens to be our primary polymer and for the manufacture of Lycra elastane. By does things. “So there’s a need to differentiate fiber development center and we have 1962, production was in full scale. “But on the flip side, I think the Lycra products and call out better products, al- some 26 Ph.D.s that are working on de- That developmental approach re- business brought to Koch Industries an lowing them to achieve price points they velopments there.” mains at the DNA of Invista. appreciation for branding and consum- hadn’t thought about before,” he said. The Waynesboro plant was actu- Trerotola said, “In Asia, we have a er research,” Trerotola added. “We’ve Deciding where to manufacture ally where Lycra was invented. In 1944, number of very capable assets that as done a lot of cross work with Georgia Invista fibers and fabrics is also a com- DuPont’s Acetate Research Section had we grow the Lycra business there, we’re Pacific [owner of such consumer brands plex endeavor. taken over development of a product upgrading those assets with greater tech- as Brawny, Dixie and Quilted Northern], “A lot of it has to do with where we called “Fiber A.” It took a while, but de- nical capabilities. We have found a way which is part of Koch Industries. It’s have the technical capability,” Trerotola mand for the product marketed as Orlon to convert the Western assets to higher- been a real change. We’ve both learned said. “For example, we have some very soared and an additional plant was built, tech goods, higher-value goods and use from each other.”

14 WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 26, 2015 WWD.COM WWD SPECIAL REPORT Invista’s ARC of Creativity

ties into some of the work By ARTHUR FRIEDMAN we do here in how you de- sign fabrics and test fab- NEWARK, Del. — It can be rics to fi nd out which ones said that Invista’s Applied strike that balance between Research Center provides both doing a shaping and the innovative juice that control job, but also being fuels the global fiber and comfortable. Basically the fabric company’s mission people in this lab line up of providing products that into these subbrands and do offer value-added qualities research to come up with in- to brands and the market. novative products that help “The way the Advanced support those subbrands. Research Facility benefits Lycra Sport is about per- the brand is that it allows us formance in the context of to explore new innovation athletic performance. Lycra beyond just fiber, into the Energize is for well-being, fabric and garment,” said so you can design something Bob Kirkwood, vice presi- The Lycra BrandScan fi ber testing machine. like hosiery and with dent of technology at Invista. something like graduated “It allows us and our scien- compression, which can tists to work with customers help with blood circulation. either at the mill level or Lycra Xtra Life, which is re- the brand and retail level to ally around durability, adds discover new ways to bring extra longevity to garments.” innovation to the consumer Kirkwood said without in the apparel space, mak- the ARC facility, Invista ing clothes that are more ’’ wouldn’t have the breadth comfortable, fi t better, last of products that can deliver longer, help you perform bet- on the promise of those sub- ter. So this allows us to not brands. He also noted that just talk about those ideas, Invista’s approach to the but actually turn fi bers into global fi ber business — hav- fabric and garments that, ul- ing it driven by innovation timately, people can wear.” — also fi ts with the times. In a tour of the eight- “Everyone today wants year-old, 60,000-square-foot Bob Kirkwood to be more specific, more facility that offers integrat- Rolls of Lycra fi ber in the lab. differentiated, so trying to ed research and develop- fi gure out in the context in ment support for Invista’s that consumer brand’s image Apparel, Intermediates The 3-D body scanner. with what are they trying to and Performance Surfaces develop, what are they trying & Materials businesses, and how can we help them Kirkwood explained and do that, that’s the magic of demonstrated the many being an ingredient brand,” methods and techniques the The way the he said. “You’re working center utilizes to create new with people who see them- fi bers and enhance existing selves being competitors, so ones. The ARC, which hous- Advanced Research we spend a lot of time try- es advanced textile technol- ing to fi gure out for brand A ogy, state-of-the-art chemistry Facility benefits how can we help them make labs and research capabili- their garments do something ties, allows Invista to work the brand is that it unique, and brand B, how with brands on developing can we help them do some- new ways of constructing fab- thing unique so that’s their rics using the fi bers to fi t the allows us to explore little edge, their little story. end results of their products. “In apparel, fashion is The ARC has several cir- new innovation always going to be number cular knitting machines in one, but certainly in the last which new are tested beyond just fiber, fi ve years you’ve seen a lot and developed, including a more performance aspects,” being tested during the he added. “You see it in tour for a client swimwear into the fabric the ath-leisure trend, in yo- company for durability and gawear, for example. We’re compatibility for blending and garment. not the fashion experts, with another yarn material. but we are the comfort ex- There are also denim- — BOB KIRKWOOD, INVISTA perts. What we’ve tried to machines, since do is take that simple word Lycra-infused denim has of comfort and break it become a major growth down into a lot of different market for Lycra. At the parts; is it comfort while it’s moment, a Lycra yarn was shaping, is it comfort while being woven into the weft of a denim cluding the Coolmax brand for cool com- “The new Lycra brand really started you’re running, is it comfortable when fabric to be tested for various character- fort and the Thermolite brand. with consumer research and understand- it’s compression shorts for athletic wear; istics. It is part of the Lycra dual-effect Kirkwood noted that the facility is ing what does the brand mean,” said is it comfort in managing body tempera- yarns developed at the facility that has also where Invista conducts its certifi - Kirkwood, who holds a doctorate in chem- ture in the other brands we offer? That’s strong stretch performance. cation work for various standards and ical engineering from the University of what we’re about.” In a laboratory setting in another regulations it maintains. Invista holds Massachusetts. “The core benefi ts of the Kirkwood said the easiest question he room in the building, a scientifi c test was more than 2,000 trademarks and pend- Lycra brand — comfort, fi t, freedom and gets is, ‘Why should I pay any more for being conducted on pieces of swimwear ing applications worldwide for its global resilience — that’s what we do in garment you?” His response: “Come visit one of our fabrics. The swatches were in a fi sh tank brands that include Lycra and Tactel fi - engineering, trying to make clothes’’ that fi ve global labs and this is what you get. fi lled with chlorine water to simulate a bers, and Coolmax, Supplex, Thermolite do that. The technology and the brands “One of the things we enjoy the most pool, connected to a repetitive and Cordura fabrics. These feature val- are very connected. In developing the sub- is to work throughout the value chain,” motion machine and run for 120 hours to ue-added characteristics such as mois- brands for this Lycra brand strategy and he said. “We work with brands to fi nd out determine the stretch and recovery lifes- ture management, body sculpting, UV campaign, we had a lot of options as to what they want, but then we’ll work with pan of the fabric. Several pieces were protection, muscle support, durability how to develop the brand architecture.” their mills or their garment vendors to holding up well, while a couple had lost and enhanced stretch and recovery. “We did a fair amount of consumer make sure that’s something they’re excit- their elasticity and run their course. Another area of the ARC was dedicated research and found that what resonates ed about — what are all the specifi cs of Kirkwood, who oversees fi ve global re- to 3-D body scanning, which combines the the most with the consumer is using our making that a commercially viable fabric, search labs and a team of more than 180 fi ndings of fi t models with computer pro- subbrands to defi ne the functional ben- how do you cut it into a garment that’s scientists and support staff, said other grams that measure comfort, shaping and efi ts,” he continued. “So Lycra Beauty is going to work. Being a global supplier is Invista brands also utilize the facility, in- fi t for lingerie, shapewear and athletic wear. all about control and shaping and that what also makes us a little unique.”

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BONDED TECHNOLOGY BY EUROJERSEY KARLA COLLETTO INTERPRETS BONDED TECHNOLOGY BY EUROJERSEY WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 26, 2015 17 WWD.COM

chain BHS. the latest BHS accounts fi led “We have with the U.K.’s Companies FASHION SCOOPS had several House, the retailer recorded approaches on a loss of 55.3 million BHS over the pounds, or $86.3 million in PANTS DOWN: Even on Sunday, MOHAPATRA’S MOMENT: Bibhu past few months. the year ended Aug. 31, 2013, as men’s fashion week was Mohapatra came full circle as a It is now in the narrowing from a net loss of drawing to a close, TV crews designer this weekend and he company’s plan to 82.1 million, or $128.9 million were still getting reactions has First Lady Michelle Obama to explore whether in the previous year. Sales for to the “free willy” project thank for it. any of these can the period were 675.7 million initiated by Rick Owens at his fall FLOTUS made a splash in be brought to a pounds, or $1.05 billion. show on Thursday. one of his outfi ts — a fl oral conclusion,” the — SAMANTHA CONTI AND Asked about Owen’s Full print dress and matching coat company said. NINA JONES Monty moment on Sunday, Sir — as she disembarked from Air The Paul Smith gamely responded: “I Force One with her husband, confi rmation MORE MONEY: London-based decided to keep my trousers on.” President Obama, and greeted follows British designer Jonathan Saunders has Owen remained sanguine Indian Prime Minister Narendra press reports that secured investment from Eiesha about the turmoil he sparked Modi in New Delhi at the start of Green has been Bharti Pasricha, a private investor, — fi rst in the front row, then a three-day visit. quietly shopping the designer said Friday. on social media networks and Mohapatra, an Indian- BHS around. Saunders didn’t disclose the beyond. born designer who is based in According to a size of Pasricha’s investment. “I pass classical marble New York, told WWD that he report in London’s The designer said the statues of nude and draped was “beyond ecstatic” upon Michelle Obama in Bibhu Mohapatra’s design, Sunday Times investment is part of a business fi gures in the park every confi rming that she chose one with President Obama and Narendra Modi. over the weekend, restructure that would “lay the day, and they are a vision of of his outfi ts, a printed crepe the 180-store foundations for the brand’s PHOTO BY NEWSPIX INTERNATIONAL/COURTESY OF CORBIS NEWSPIX INTERNATIONAL/COURTESY PHOTO BY sensuality — yes, but also dress and a silk and wool chain has recently future growth.” of grace and freedom. As a cutaway jacket from his spring He said he met the First attracted takeover attention from Pasricha said: “Jonathan participant in one of our most collection. He said he worked Lady at the White House in retailers including brings with him progressive aesthetic arenas, on the outfi t in preparation for October for a megafashion Primark, South FOR MORE passion, ambition am I not allowed to use this the fi rst couple’s trip to India education workshop and all- African entrepreneur SCOOPS, SEE and a creative fl air imagery? Is it only appropriate and received a text from India day design extravaganza that Christoffel Wiese and that translates for a Michael Fassbender movie? while at a dinner party on brought together a bevy of big- U.S. hedge fund fi rm WWD.com. itself into easy, I thought this might be an Saturday night about Obama name designers. Apollo. As far back wearable pieces.” interesting question,” he wrote possibly wearing his design as “I believe that she has an as 2008, there were Pasricha also has WWD in an e-mail. she departed from AF1. But it incredible sense of style, that reports that Green planned to an investment in London Owens said “having been wasn’t until he saw the Delhi is an extension of her own off-load the retailer, which he designer Roksanda Ilincic. infl uenced by fear and shame arrival videos and images that persona,” he said. “That is why acquired from Storehouse in Saunders added: “There growing up,” he “[loved] the idea he could confi rm it. her style is always effortless 2000 for 200 million pounds, or is a special quality to this of putting a more loving energy “This is a major moment and exciting.” — KRISTI ELLIS $299.6 million. investment for me as we enjoy out there whenever I can.” for me and my brand,” he said When Taveta Investments a shared ambition for the “We all know that runway in an e-mail. “I feel like I now SIR PHILIP TO SELL: A Ltd., Arcadia’s parent business and joint vision for looks aren’t meant to be taken have come full circle, with spokeswoman for Sir Philip company, reported its full- the brand.” literally, they illustrate an Michelle Obama arriving in my Green’s Arcadia Group — of year results in November, The designer, who launched ethos. I would like to present a homeland in clothes designed which Topshop is a part of — Green said BHS’ performance his label in 2004, will stage his utopian world of grace free of by me.” He said that this is “one confi rmed Sunday that the “remains challenging…with fall 2015 show Feb. 22 during fear and shame,” he noted. of the biggest dreams that has fi rm is in talks about selling its this sector of retail continuing London Fashion Week at the — PAULINA SZMYDKE come true for me.” fashion and home high-street to be very tough.” According to Tate Modern gallery. — N.J.

VINCE CAMUTO

We are truly saddened and shocked by the sudden loss of Vince Camuto. You will always remain an inspiration to us. We will be dedicated to continue honoring your legacy.

Our deepest sympathy and condolences

FLEET STREET 18 WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 26, 2015 WWD.COM INTIMATES Diversifi cation Is Key to Growth at Curvexpo ing beyond its South American Picking up on the activewear By KHANH T.L. TRAN A look Cosabella’s retail territory. trend dominating the fashion in- from contemporary Also mixing innovation and dustry, Cosabella is following the IN LINGERIE, SEXY ISN’T jKnix. offshoot, tradition is Cosabella, which is summer 2015 release of its fi rst the only thing that sells. As Csbla. displaying its namesake flag- sport under the Triathlon Curvexpo and its exhibitors re- ship brand started in 1983 in group with two additional styles. alize, it’s just as crucial to tap addition to a year-old offshoot, Covering activities ranging from previously unexplored markets called Csbla, which targets a yoga to cycling to running, the like activewear and swim, build younger customer with contem- sport , which retail from a digital presence and create porary layering pieces retailing $59 to $79, help Cosabella re- clever packaging to grow busi- for between $100 and $250. Wary claim a niche encroached by ness during trying times. of copycats, the Miami-based, athletic brands such as Nike. All Like other categories in Italian-made brand took the in all, these efforts are helping women’s fashion, intimates and extra step to patent the techni- Cosabella to achieve its goal of sleepwear have faced a slump cal design for a $25 that double-digit growth in 2015. in sales. In the 12 months ended is held together with a single “We’re differentiating our mar- November 2014, sales of wom- center back seam. Introduced ket [offerings] constantly,” said en’s intimates decreased 2 per- as part of the Trenta series in Guido Campello, ceo of Cosabella. cent to $10.7 billion while those conjunction with its 30th an- For Jill Carrade, a former for women’s sleepwear fell 2 niversary, the style comes in a boutique owner from Sausalito, percent to $3.8 billion, accord- tie-dye option achieved through Calif., the urge to wear some- ing to NPD Group’s Consumer thing besides yoga clothes moti- Tracking Service. In contrast, Moreover, Curvexpo is heed- mation year-round to both de- vated her to start a lingerie and swimwear is on a roll, marking ing its own advice by adapting signers and retailers. “Our main SHOWS AT A GLANCE casualwear line called jKnix an increase of 18 percent to $3.3 a personal approach to each of tool is the trade show but it’s in 2012. Searching for the ideal billion in sales during the same its shows. not enough these days,” Hurstel CURVENV fabric for over a year, she dis- period tracked by NPD. Plus, ac- In Las Vegas, where it will said. “Our role is to animate and Dates: Feb. 16 to 17 covered a knitted nylon-elastane tivewear grew 7 percent to $15.6 take place at the Venetian hotel facilitate our community 365 Venue: Venetian Hotel, Las blend from Italy that could be billion, NPD said. on Feb. 16 and 17, it’s sponsor- days per year.” Vegas heat-bonded with adhesive for “It’s a challenging market,” ing its second resort and spa Despite a decline in over- Hours: Feb. 16: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.; a seamless effect. Besides ban- acknowledged Pierre-Nicolas program that invites 20 buy- all sales, the intimates market Feb. 17: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. deaux, boyshorts and Hurstel, chief executive offi cer ers representing 350 proper- still presents opportunities to Web: curvexpo.com/curvenv with scalloped hems, she also of Curvexpo in New York. “For ties such as the Cosmopolitan established businesses cross- used the wrinkle-free fabric as the lingerie segment, the chal- hotel, Four Seasons’ Beverly ing over from denim, sports- CURVENY a base for catsuits, track pants lenge is the experience. What is Wilshire hotel and other posh wear and footwear. Joe’s Jeans, Dates: Feb. 22 to 24 and strapless . Retail the experience that brands and resorts from the West Coast and Stella McCartney and Ugg Venue: Jacob K. Javits prices start at $29 for the knick- retailers are going to deliver to Midwest to view loungewear, represent a faction Convention Center North, ers and go up to $143 for track the customer, to interact with cover-ups, accessories and lin- of such companies planning to New York pants. Manufacturing everything A from Exes and Ohs them and to have them buy from gerie from 40 brands, including exhibit at Curvexpo. Hours: Feb. 22 and 23: in California, Carrade sent her Intimates. their store and on their Web Miel and Panache. Foreign brands also seek a 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Feb. 24: fi rst shipments last September, Striped T-shirt and leggings from site? It’s an industry that has to In New York, where the show launch pad into the U.S. Already 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. landing in 29 stores such as Maison Du Soir. build upon this experience.” takes place at the Javits Center sold in 19 countries, Turkey’s Web: curvexpo.com/curveny Kalifornia Jean Bar in Tahoe A front-closing push-up bra and lace In Hurstel’s view, companies North from Feb. 22 to 24, it’s stag- Blackspade aims to cover the City, Calif., and Waterlilies in panty from Skarlett Blue. that can offer a unique fi tting ing the return of its runway show entire country via Curvexpo’s Social Media Seminar: San Francisco. A fl amingo-print one-piece suit from service or a one-of-a-kind ap- cosponsored by Lycra. Styled fairs in Las Vegas and New York. Feb. 24, 1:30 to 2:30 p.m., Aiming to surpass $800,000 in Kina Swimwear. proach to shopping stand to ben- under the theme of romancing The eight-year-old brand melds Event Lounge fi rst-year sales, Carrade is using efi t the most. In particular, Web the runway, 40 brands, including Micro Modal and cotton grown her retail background to advance sites and specialty stores are Heidi Klum Intimates, in Turkey and Egypt with bond- Trend Wrap-Up Sessions: Feb. her business. For instance, un- gaining momentum from con- and Zegna, will highlight under- ing and laser cutting for its array 22 and 23: 5 p.m.; Feb. 24: derstanding the importance of sumers who are shopping for lin- wear, activewear, loungewear, of underwear, sleepwear, swim- 4 p.m.; Promostyl Lounge packaging led her to create a gerie outside of behemoths like accessories and shapewear from wear and activewear, which it case that will let shoppers see Victoria’s Secret and depart- their latest collections to buyers will present in Curvexpo’s linge- and touch the underwear before ment stores. Catering to buyers from 150 stores, such as Barneys rie fashion show. ombré-dyed thread. Cosabella purchase and then reuse it to who are scouting for emerging New York, Nordstrom and New Kina Swimwear, a is also digging into its archives hold other things like jewelry. brands, Curvexpo is welcoming York’s La Petite Coquette. maker based in Uruguay, is also to resurrect the , which “I knew from the beginning newcomers such as Maison Du Outside of the trade shows, bringing its print-focused collec- is updated for fall with lace, mi- that [packaging] would be cru- Soir in New York and Exes and Curvexpo revamped its Web site tion to the New York edition of crofi ber and necklines that vary cial,” she said. “That’s been one Ohs Intimates in Las Vegas. last December to circulate infor- Curve, with the aim of expand- from deep plunges to halter ties. of the biggest challenges.”

all, she said, “it doesn’t have to like, ‘Let’s make something em- Striped be frumpy or old-fashioned to powering and something sexy,’ ” T-shirt be comfortable.” said Ruby Brallier, Skarlett Ones to Watch and — KHANH T.L. TRAN Blue’s marketing representa- leggings tive. “No matter where you are Fresh names to check out at Curve from SKARLETT BLUE or what you’re doing, we want to shows east and west. Maison Dana-co Apparel Group is court- give you a great-fi tting, comfort- Du Soir. ing twentysomethings able bra that also has MAISON DU SOIR rary customer in mind. Inspired with a new brand sexy features.” What does the cool chick wear by men’s wear, her fall offerings called Skarlett Blue. Following its retail to sleep? include silk dipped The New York- debut this past holi- That question riddled in gem tones, button-down shirts based manufacturer, day season, Skarlett Courtney Kates until two years with matching pants that have which has produced Blue is available ago, when she began designing pockets, and pearl- intimates for Josie solely online, on stylish togs for bedtime under colored FOR MORE ONES Natori and other its own e-com- her brand, Maison Du Soir. knits cut into leg- TO WATCH, SEE designers under merce site as “I didn’t understand why gings, long-sleeve license, is mix- well as on an- sleepwear didn’t echo a better Ts, racer-back tanks WWD.com/ ing all-day comfort thropologie.com style,” said Kates, 34. “The girls and shorts. The fashion-news. with nighttime sex A racer-back bra and and HerRoom. who are wearing Acne and Rag pieces are substan- appeal in a colorful lace from com. The com- & Bone — what do they wear to tial enough to be worn out of the variety of lingerie Skarlett Blue. pany is striving to sleep? I don’t think it’s lace che- house — she sometimes wears and sleepwear, build business mises and wide-legged pants. her shirts paired with jeans, blending span- with boutiques We’re all wearing skinny jeans boots and a fedora. counts Revolveclothing.com dex, lace, nylon and department [during the day]. I don’t think By making her debut at and the Nordstrom Web site as and polyester. stores alike at wide-legged pants serve a pur- Curvexpo’s New York edition, in retail accounts. Her devotion The fall collection of CurveNY, where pose [as ], because in booth 447, Kates, who gained ex- to making everything in Los brassieres, panties and it’ll be showing in the middle of the night they’re perience in the apparel indus- Angeles also helped her become sleepwear ranges from demi booth 146. Wholesale prices halfway up to your forehead.” try through launching brands a fi nalist for Martha Stewart’s cups and balconette bras to run from $7.36 to $25.76. Designing in silk crepe de for action-sports companies, American Made Awards last G-strings and lace sleep shorts, Said Brallier, “We wanted chine, MicroModal spandex and aims in 2015 to double her sales, year. Taken together, these ef- all in a palette of black, nude, to give off that feeling [that] no a cotton- blend, often with which are currently less than forts let her advance her mis- red, violet and light blue. matter what you’re wearing, un- a stripe theme, Kates approach- $500,000. With retail prices be- sion to change the perception of “All the [Dana-co] women de- derneath you always feel sexy.” es sleepwear with a contempo- tween $40 and $200, she already what sleepwear has to be. After signers got together and were — REBECCA DANCER R15111_Ad_254x352_WWD_USA_SS15_07.indd 1 12.01.15 17:33 2x5 (left)

20 WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 26, 2015 WWD.COM

INTIMATES Lyon Silk Firms Maintain Their Edge Exclusivity, counting for between 60 and 80 Boosting demand, he said, is percent of French production the increasing number of col- craftsmanship and of silk imported from China and lections produced each year. reactivity are key to Brazil, according to its presi- “More collections means more dent, Jean-Laurent Perrin. themes, so more sourcing, supporting a dwindling There are now only four re- more demand — an activity that market in the future. maining silk weavers in the is more linear.” By Alex Wynne Rhône-Alpes region of France, As well as pure , the com- Perrin told visitors touring pany produces blends like silk the facility. with cashmere, wool or polyam- GREATER LYON, France — In Les Tissages Perrin weaves ide on 58 mechanical looms, of and around France’s historic between 1.5 million and 2 mil- which 48 produce plain fabrics center of silk-making, a few lion meters of fabric each year, and 10 make jacquards, with in- small enterprises continue to he said, largely destined for the house stylists producing two col- successfully perpetuate tradi- luxury accessories industry but lections a year. tional craftsmanship for the also for ready-to-wear, lingerie “We need to innovate, go luxury market. and swimwear. faster and faster, so we have At Les Tissages Perrin, which Perrin said 2014 sales of 35 everything integrated to limit counts Hermès and Chanel among million euros, or $48.2 million at the impact of these cycles,” its clients, a seamstress rolls and current exchange, represents a said Perrin, who believes that stitches the hem of a silk carré 5.4 percent decrease from 2013. this is the lynchpin of the cur- scarf by hand, a task that takes He attributes the drop to indus- rent argument for “Made in…” her roughly 45 minutes, while in try cycles rather than ongoing products. “The European customer needs to go faster and faster, Designs from Marjolaine. needs reactivity and proximity, to be easily and quickly understood, and that can only be done with partners situated within a given geographic zone,” he added. While in accessories, around 80 percent of the company’s vol- ume is done with bespoke de- signs, in segments like lingerie, that proportion drops to as little as 5 to 10 percent. Perrin welcomed journal- ists to the factory in collabo- Silk looms inside Les Tissages Perrin’s factory. ration with trade-show op- erator Eurovet, which put the focus on high-end silks at its Designer of the Year. in Russia and Ukraine last year. Interfi lière event, which start- Its general manager Stéphane But he is confi dent the im- ed Saturday in Paris and ends Guérin also believes in the resil- pact will be short-term. “For us, today, in its “The Exception” ience of the market for high-end the market is strong,” he said. space, which highlighted lin- silk goods, despite registering “We have never felt the effects gerie suppliers’ craftsmanship. fl at revenues in 2014 of 5.2 mil- of the [global economic] crisis.” another part of the family-owned weak spending in Europe or Its sister event Salon lion euros, or $7.2 million. In the company’s atelier, fi rm’s factory in Le Grand-Lemps, events in Russia, for example. International de la Lingerie He explained that following a some 30 workers alternate workers run their hands across “Sometimes you correspond focused on silk by highlight- strong year in 2013, when reve- tasks like hand-cutting lace each roll of silk produced, tweez- completely with the demands of ing Villeurbanne-based nues climbed 14 percent thanks with a hot poker, painstakingly ing out imperfections. the market, and sometimes you Marjolaine, a family-owned notably to growth in Russia, pinning the shapes onto the The company, founded in don’t,” he said. “We are subject creator of loungewear made which represents a quarter of silk slips and stitching them 1929, is the largest of France’s to cycles, and you have to know from silk and Calais lace, as its Marjolaine’s business, the brand in place using special Cornelli remaining silk weavers, ac- how to manage them.” Paris Capitale de la Création was adversely affected by events sewing machines. Marjolaine produces be- tween 80,000 and 100,000 units a year, with wholesale prices ranging from 60 to 115 euros ($69 to $133). According to Guérin, keep- ing production small and high- end allows the fi rm to accom- modate extremely small orders and deal directly with its retail- ers, which number around 850 in France, accounting for 40 percent of the business. Despite strong demand, he does not plan to expand expo- nentially, and volumes have A seamstress stitches lace dropped signifi cantly since the onto a silk on a special company began to focus its offer Cornelli sewing machine. almost exclusively on silk prod- ucts as it began looking to ex- port markets 20 years ago. “My production is pretty Inside Marjolaine’s workshop. much full all year, I do not want to jeopardize my existing cus- tomers,” he said. “I prefer to make a high-end product.” La Lame , Exclusive Suppliers of Stretch Fabrics Perrin shares a similar discourse. “Silk has always been a rare, expensive, natural material. It STRETCH AND RIGID ALLOVER AND NARROW , PVC LEATHER, SPACERS must remain so. Silk is distinc- POWER MESH, KNITS, METALLIC TULLE AND LACES, FOIL GLITTER, FLOCK, EMBOSSING, BURNOUT PRINTS ON: MESH, TRICOT AND tion, exclusivity, exceptional, ex- NOVELTY ELASTIC TRIM: METALLIC, SHEER RUFFLES, LACE, PRINTS AND RHINESTONES cellence, and all that must have a price,” he said. “If we look at historic silk prices, when the price of silk re- ally falls signifi cantly, it is cata- La Lame, Inc. strophic, as it leads to a certain vulgarization of a material that should remain exceptional.”

22 WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 26, 2015 Will Franc Stall Watch Industry? {Continued from page one} “Often the best thing “Switzerland, as usual, will cope. We important diversification toward the prices would increase by about the to do is nothing and let have very high productivity, a very quali- women’s market for a brand best known same, and possibly up to 10 percent, time pass. This is not a fi ed and very fl exible workforce, a liberal for technical, masculine products. In though it would be more cautious crisis, it’s a currency economy and a track record of overcom- fact, half of sales in Asia, where the line for entry-level brands. adjustment,” agreed ing adversity,” reckoned Georges Kern, was launched, have been to men, under- The storming franc, which Juan Carlos ceo of Richemont’s fast-growing IWC sub- lining Kern’s comment that the product has settled around 15 to 20 per- Torres, Vacheron sidiary. He, like others, noted the euro’s had enjoyed a “brilliant” start. He hint- cent up against the euro since Constantin’s vet- latest slump against the franc continued ed IWC could develop more products for the bank move, has come at a eran ceo. Torres a progressive decline. “We went from 1.60 women — including, perhaps, a ver- particularly delicate time for used SIHH to Swiss francs to 1.20 Swiss francs to sion of its top-selling Portuguese Swiss watchmakers. The in- launch the the euro and we adjusted. range, celebrating its 75th anniver- dustry is in the throes of sus- limited-edition Whatever the problem, sary this year. tained heavy investment to Harmony collec- it’s always overcome Ralph Lauren also launched a meet projected demand and tion, celebrating if you have appro- predominantly women’s collection respond to expected shortag- its 260th anniver- priate products,” with the Tuxedo range, coming in two es of key components sourced sary, with prices added Philippe sizes. Highlighting another trend, the from third parties. Many are from $43,800 for a Léopold-Metzger, brand showed an Art Deco-inspired spending heavily on “internaliz- dual-time watch to Piaget’s ceo. diamond-studded on a black ing” production of specialties like $314,600 for a tourbil- Many stressed suede strap designed to complement dials, cases, bracelets or even entire lon chronograph. the fundamental the diamond version of the movements previously sourced else- Another big talking trend of a steadi- Cadenas where. Vacheron Constantin, one of point was how sensi- ly wealthier cli- Tuxedo. That Richemont’s premium watch brands, in tive customers would be entele throughout growing inter- August will open a big expansion to its to the price increases. All the world would play between Geneva base. The expansion at Piaget, agreed fl exibility was the continue to sup- and another premium Richemont A. Lange least in the low- to mid- port watch de- jewelry was label, will be finished & Söhne price bracket. Opinion dif- mand. “Medium- Vacheron also evident about a year later. Just fered about how wealthier and long-term, Constantin at Audemars before the show, pri- customers would react. “It’s very we remain very Piguet, which vately owned Patek diffi cult at the moment to estimate positive,” said Nicolas Bos, ceo of spotlighted Philippe said it would the consequences. Will fewer Richemont’s Van Cleef & Arpels high its innovative spend 450 million rich Chinese visit Switzerland? jewelry and watch marque. streak with Swiss francs, or $513 Will more people buy in Paris “The market will not grow that much its “Diamond million at current or Frankfurt? To be quite hon- in 2015. It will be stable and may even Punk” high- exchange, on its est, I have no idea,” admitted decline, so market share will be the jewelry watch.

Geneva site. Jean-Marc Pontroué, ceo battle ground,” warned François-Henry Priced at $879,200, Watchmakers’ of Richemont’s exclusive Bennahmias, ceo of independently owned the diamond-en- decision not to Roger Dubuis brand. Audemars Piguet, one of many executives crusted piece, said pass on the full With models often sell- to note the stronger franc would inevita- to be inspired by impact of the ing for hundreds of thou- bly force renewed attention to costs. the craggy land- franc’s rise to sands of Swiss francs, he But Bennahmias was confi dent de- scape of the brand’s

euro-zone dealers suggested Roger Dubuis’ cus- mand would remain robust as surroundings, takes refl ected a choice tomers would not be too price- long as the product was right. Cartier nine months to pro- to accept lower mar- sensitive, provided the product “If you take all the top brands duce. “It’s a state- gins rather than en- was right. By contrast, Stephen — roughly those priced above ment. We wanted to dangering long-term Forsey, cofounder of even more Rolex, Omega and Breitling show we break rules,” market growth and upmarket Greubel Forsey, was — total sales were probably Bennahmias said. relations with ’’ retail- cautious. Unveiling a new “en- no more than 600,000 to Van Cleef & Arpels ers. Transferring the try-level” watch at 290,000 Swiss 700,000 pieces last year. launched the Cadenas range, re- full impact would have francs, or $330,600, (compared with So there are still a huge viving a creation dating back to hit sales in big euro-zone the brand’s previously number of potential buy- 1935, with a collection priced markets. Doing nothing, cheapest 320,000 Swiss Parmigiani ers out there. If you do from 18,000 euros, or $20,160, by contrast, would have en- Roger Dubuis francs, or $364,800) the job right, it remains for a simple gold watch to couraged parallel, or “gray Forsey noted: “We’re a very untapped mar- 130,000 euros, or $145,600, market,” imports into Switzerland, as trying to bring to col- ket,” he reckoned. for a fully jeweled version. euro-priced watches undercut identical lectors something The new models un- “Ladies’ watches remain a products at home. they can’t resist. veiled confirmed the strong growth sector. It was Not surprisingly, currencies overshad- But we also have greater sobriety, with underdeveloped and there’s owed everything at the show, including to offer value. more women’s watches still a lot of potential,” predict- discussion of Apple’s smartwatch, which They all know and more jewelry prod- ed Bos. “But it was particularly had been expected to be a big topic but how to count.” ucts, which also were important for us to come up with identified as trends an element of surprise and empha- at last year’s show. size the traditions of a jewelry house Cartier, Richemont’s integrating watch functions into a The market will not grow that powerhouse watch and piece of jewelry.” jewelry brand, unveiled “The ladies market shows great more than 100 new items, potential, and jewelry will continue to much in 2015. It will be stable and notably the Clé de Cartier women’s outgrow watches,” confi rmed Piaget’s watch collection. Stressing simplicity, Léopold-Metzger. While using SIHH may even decline, so market share the range, distinctive for its to unveil variations of its ultrathin Piaget novel shape and a new au- Altiplano range, including a $27,500 will be the battle ground. tomatic movement, comes with a fi rst-time gold bracelet, in two sizes and fi nishes, rather than a conventional strap, he — FRANÇOIS-HENRY BENNAHMIAS, including yellow gold on a confi rmed the brand would push fur- leather strap costing 13,500 ther into jewelry. Two new collections AUDEMARS PIGUET euros, or $15,120, and a ba- are due this year, following the two guette diamond-studded launched in 2014, including further Executives model costing more pieces playing on Piaget’s established was barely mentioned. The foremost noted Switzerland had withstood than 850,000 euros, “Rose” theme. topic was when the price increases shocks before and that, reassur- or $952,000. “In the For men, there was ever more empha- would bite: some brands said they would ingly, all were in the same boat. next year and more sis on stripped-down “skeleton” models, act immediately; others suggested wait- Even Wilhelm Schmid, ceo of than ever, creativ- exposing their mechanics and, in the ing until February or even March to let Richemont’s A. Lange & Söhne ity will be key,” most extreme cases, akin to mini sculp- euro-zone dealers clear existing stocks brand, which is unusual in being predicted Pierre tures. Roger Dubuis, a skeleton special- and, just possibly, benefi t from a poten- made in Germany, not Switzerland, Rainero, Cartier ist, unveiled innovations including a tial brief sales boom as buyers locked in expected some currency impact, International’s di- cheaper addition to its Excalibur range, pre-rise prices. as some of his components were rector of image, heri- which, with an automatic movement but “For the moment, we’ll do noth- Switzerland-sourced.’’ Giving form to tage and style. no tourbillon, will sell from a relatively ing,” said Jean-Marc Jacot, chief ex- the faith that recently prompted Lange IWC devoted space modest 54,000 Swiss francs, or $84,040. ecutive offi cer of independently owned to also invest in new facilities, Schmid to the new midsize ver- Women also should expect more skel- Parmigiani. He justifi ed sharing the unveiled the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater, sions of its Portofino etons: among others, Parmigiani show- pain of squeezed margins with dealers, an unusual watch combining traditional range, launched in the cased its Tonda 1950 Skeleton, a big, noting that Parmigiani’s Swiss dealers hands with a mechanical digital display fall. With diamonds on rose gold model with diamonds priced still enjoyed 50 percent margins, com- and costing 440,000 euros, or $501,600. the bezel, a moon face from $42,500, which ceo Jacot modestly pared with the 40 percent that applied “We wouldn’t do it if we weren’t confi - and automatic movement, called “the most beautiful technical to certain other brands. dent about our future,” he said. the collection marked an watch available for women.” WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 26, 2015 23 WWD.COM

February issue features cover model Camuto Memorial Set surrounded by cover lines Drew Barrymore A memorial service will be held for Vince Camuto, chief creative offi cer and that read: “How Real Women Reinvent” chief executive offi cer of the Camuto Group, at the Church of St. Ignatius Loyola and “Get the Hair You Want.” at 980 Park Avenue in New York on Feb. 5 at 10 a.m. “We are not a magazine for all women Camuto, 78, died Wednesday at his Greenwich, Conn., home of cancer. A pri- between the ages of 35 and 54,” Collins vate funeral service will be held Tuesday. — LISA LOCKWOOD said. “We are a magazine for who we like to call ‘the fabulous women.’ We like to keep it to those women who are professional, managerial, with a really high income.” When asked to expound on her new The publisher said that income role, Sanders said she “did not know hovers around $110,000 a year, which MEMO PAD what the parameters would be.” is the highest average income of any “I’m going to be part of a team,” she women’s magazine. SANDERS TAKES NEW ROLE: Gina said. “I don’t have a title yet. I’m looking To serve the fabulous women, the Sanders, Condé Nast’s global head of to grow my own role there.” magazine has undergone a redesign development, informed her team Friday Before her appointment as global that allows for 15 to 20 more pages of morning that her role has once again head of development in September, editorial copy on a range of topics from changed at the publishing company. Sanders, who is related by marriage fashion and beauty to personal fi nance, Sanders said in a memo to staff that to the Newhouse family, served as technology and entrepreneurship. The as the global team moves its base to president and chief executive offi cer of magazine is also adding travel, hotels London, she would remain in New York Fairchild Fashion Media, a position she and food to its coverage area, which and work with the company “developing held since 2010. Sanders moved back to Collins hopes brings new advertisers. investment strategies.” Condé Nast following the sale of FFM to Seymour said the masthead has “Having studied the optimal path for a Penske Media Corp. in August. An image from the “Karl Is Kolor” campaign. not changed in order to support the Condé Nast Global Development function Sanders said what she brings to Condé built-out editorial sections. Instead, for the past several months, I believe the is a background in fashion, retail and increasingly regular fi xture on the world’s More is working with new contributors, greatest effi ciency can be achieved by commerce. runways, appears alongside fellow models photographers and bloggers, which moving operations to London, where many “That’s my expertise,” she said, offering , Sasha Luss and Baptiste Giabiconi. will produce the content for the of Condé Nast’s central international that when she ran FFM, she made a strategic — ALEX WYNNE magazine. She said the benefi t for the resources are based,” Sanders said. “With investment in wholesale marketplace Joor, contributors is exposure. Contributors the majority of Condé Nast’s international which she noted has been successful. MORE IS MORE OR LESS IS MORE?: More include Amanda Brown, executive director properties located in Europe — including Prior to FFM, Sanders served as vice magazine is entering a new chapter. of the National Women’s Business 10 editions of Vogue, 11 editions of president and publisher of Lucky, which Starting with its February issue, the Council, as well as Merrill Stubbs, Glamour, seven GQs, four Vanity Fairs and was merged with e-tailer BeachMint to form women’s title will get a sleeker design, cofounder of Food52.com. their respective Web sites, it makes the the Lucky Group over the summer. She more editorial pages and bigger, better According to the editor, More’s most sense to base Global Development in also served as the founding vice president paper stock. readers are looking for in-depth the British Capital.” and publisher of Teen Vogue and as vice But all this comes information that can The London-based Condé Nast president and publisher of Gourmet, which at a price — a higher improve their lives, International, which is run by Jonathan folded in 2009, as well as Details magazine. subscription rate and a give them insight into Newhouse, will fi ll Sanders’ role in the “For me, it’s a very, very happy day,” much lower rate base. a complex relevant Global Development group. concluded Sanders. “We’ve done the The Meredith Corp.- topic or give them Sanders told WWD that as “the right thing for this [global development] owned magazine said insider tips. company is pursuing growth strategies business. It will have all the support it its circulation has She added that both organically and through investment should have.” — WWD STAFF dropped from 1.3 More would redesign and acquisition,” her role would involve million to 750,000 as a its Web site and would working with Andrew Siegel, senior vice KALEIDOSCOPIC: Karl Lagerfeld has revealed result of the $5 hike, likely add events and president of strategy at parent company the first images from the spring 2015 or subscription cost conferences to round Advance Publications. “Karl is Kolor” campaign for his of $15. out the business. There According to media reports, Siegel namesake brand, featuring Kendall Jenner. Editor in chief Lesley are a few cosponsorship had $500 million to invest when he took Shot by Lagerfeld in black-and-white, Jane Seymour called the opportunities in the the job at Condé in 2012. But it has been the images put the focus on the brand’s new move “intentional” and works with universities, rumored that the company has only accessories, which are the only colored “strategic,” which, in a Seymour offered. invested a fraction of that sum. elements in the images. Jenner, who is an time of waning print readership, This is the second The cover of the seems a bit hard to swallow. time More has been new More. “This is all part of the plan,” redesigned under Seymour’s said More publisher Jeannine Shao Collins fi ve-year editorship. from a corner conference room in “We wanted to redesign the magazine Meredith’s Midtown offi ces in New York, to meet the consumer,” she said. “We are Rockport Sold for $280 Million while Seymour thumbed through the not trolling for the upscale consumer. We Founded more than 40 years ago in redesigned magazine. have her already.” By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Canton, Mass., by father-and-son team Hitting newsstands on Jan. 27, More’s — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD Saul and Bruce Katz, Rockport footwear BERKSHIRE PARTNERS LLC, a Boston- was fi rst sold out of the trunk of their based investment firm, along with family’s vehicle. Rockport makes what it other investors including calls “comfort footwear” for women and Holding Inc., has inked a deal to buy The men. Their aim was to use athletic foot- Rockport Co. from the Adidas Group. wear technology to enhance comfort in The Adidas Group pegged the asking dress and casual shoes. In addition to its price at $280 million, most of which will wholesale accounts, Rockport has free- be paid in cash with the remainder com- standing stores and an e-commerce site. For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. prised of notes. The transaction is expect- As part of the deal, Drydock Footwear ed to be fi nalized later this year and will LLC, a New Balance affi liate and home free up the $16.5 billion Adidas Group to to the Cobb Hill, Aravon and Dunham focus on its core athletic business. The brands, will join with The Rockport German juggernaut has struggled in the Co. to form The Rockport Group, a new North American and Russian markets in stand-alone company offering dress and the past year. To try to turn things around, casual footwear under the Rockport, the company promoted Mark King to the Cobb Hill, Aravon and Dunham brands. role of president of its North American Rockport will remain based in the PATTERNS, SAMPLES, business in June. Beyond its successful greater Boston area. PRODUCTIONS Full service shop to the trade. hookups with Stella McCartney, Jeremy Boston-based Berkshire Partners Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 Scott and other widely known designers, seeks to invest $50 million to $500 million Adidas is reportedly bolstering its roster of equity capital in each portfolio com- of sponsored professional athletes. pany. The fi rm has invested in more than The Adidas Group’s chief executive 110 middle-market companies since 1986 offi cer, Herbert Hainer, weighed in on through eight private equity funds with the deal Friday, saying, “Rockport is a aggregate capital commitments of more brand that has performed well over the than $11 billion. The fi rm is investing Head Designer / Merchandiser last years. [But] our focus is clearly on from Berkshire Fund VIII, a $4.5 billion Volume Moderate Company Proficient in Both fabric and design sport and operating a brand portfolio fund raised in 2011, and it generally in- development with a clear agenda to unleash the poten- vests $50 million to $500 million of equity Wovens and knits Tops and bottoms tial of athletes and inspire consumers to capital in each portfolio company. Heavy enphasis in pants live active lives. The brown catego- New Balance, a 4,000-plus person in- 5 years minimum experience as ahead designer a must ry is not core to this strategy and the sale ternational operation, posted sales of Please email your resumes to of Rockport will allow us to reduce com- $2.73 billion in 2013. The Boston-based [email protected] plexity and pursue our target consum- brand is known for its fl ag-waving produc- er more aggressively with the Adidas, tion and marketing. More than four mil- and TaylorMade brands.” lion pairs of New Balance athletic foot- Executives at Berkshire Partners wear is made or assembled in the U.S., could not be reached for comment by which, according to the company, repre- press time. sents “a limited portion” of its U.S. sales.