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VUITTON’S BROOKLYN NIGHT/4 BUSTS OUT ONLINE/10 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaperewspaper • April 7, 2008 2 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwearessorrieies/s/InInnenerwrweae The Big Easy Languid loungewear surfaces this season with exotic prints in traditional relaxed shapes. Here, Oscar de la Renta’s riff a caftan that zips up the front. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

Banana’s New Signature: Retailer Heads Upmarket With First Monogram Unit By Sharon Edelson — The road to the is getting IES FROM BARBARA FLOOD’S CLOSET; ASSISTANT: DANIELLE SPONDER; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN DANIELLE SPONDER; STYLED BY ASSISTANT: FASHION CLOSET; FLOOD’S IES FROM BARBARA crowded — especially in that zone just above women’s specialty chains such as J. Crew and Ann Taylor. The latest to enter the fray is Banana Republic, which today will open its first freestanding store for the new limited edition BR Monogram collection. The line focuses on better fabrics and tailoring at prices about 30 to 40 percent higher than the brand’s core collection. The 3,000-square-foot BR Monogram store at 205 Bleecker Street and Sixth Avenue here was previously a Banana Republic unit. A spokeswoman said See Banana, Page14 PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; MODEL: ANIA/SUPREME; HAIR: DARIA WRIGHT FOR DARIAWRIGHT.COM; MAKEUP: MIZU FOR PRICE INC.; ALL ACCESSOR GEORGE CHINSEE; MODEL: ANIA/SUPREME; HAIR: DARIA WRIGHT FOR DARIAWRIGHT.COM; PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 7, 2008 WWD.COM Uneven Retail Employment Picture WWDMONDAY By Liza Casabona manufacturers in the world — “We expect somewhat of a yet they are being forced to lay transition in the retail sector as Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear WASHINGTON — Department off workers because of uncom- some businesses start to make stores cut jobs and specialty petitive U.S. trade policy.” way for summer merchandise,” FASHION stores added to payrolls in A total of 48,000 jobs were Yamarone said. “It is still pretty Designers are crazy for caftans this fall, and they’re showing up in March as U.S. employers overall lost in the manufacturing sector nippy in most regions. Stores at-home and long tunics. trimmed 80,000 jobs, the most in in March, according to Bureau wouldn’t be throwing out some 6 five years and the third consecu- of Labor statistics. of their summer wear yet or ex- tive monthly drop. Apparel and accessories pecting to sell it so they don’t GENERAL The department store sec- stores benefi ted from an early hire many people.” Banana Republic will open its fi rst store for BR Monogram on Bleecker tor shed 4,600 positions, to Easter, which enabled those In a historical context, 1 Street and Sixth Avenue in Manhattan today. 1.5 million, after a payroll de- cline of 11,100 in February, the Gaetano Sallorenzo has left his post as president and ceo of Calvin Klein Department of Labor reported 2 Europe, succeeded by Thomas Axmacher as managing director. on Friday. Specialty stores Early Easter did as well as it could to EYE: Socialites and celebs galore showed up at MoMA Thursday for a added 2,700 jobs, to 1.5 million, “ 4 screening of George Clooney’s latest fi lm, “Leatherheads.” after cutting 3,000 positions the help the retail sector out. Unfortunately, previous month. ACCESSORIES: Janis Savitt, half of the M+J Savitt team, is striking out The job losses, and an unem- it wasn’t enough. 8 on her own with a fashion jewelry collection. ployment rate that rose to 5.1 — Richard” Yamarone, Argus Research Corp. INNERWEAR: Lingerie business on dedicated Web sites as well as those percent in March from 4.8 per- 10 operated by specialty stores is booming. cent the previous month, come Classifi ed Advertisements...... 17-19 as the economy struggles with a merchants to add jobs and halt Yamarone said the economic housing slowdown, tight credit, three months of declines. picture for 2008 had not reached To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. high fuel prices and stock market “Apparel was probably helped the same dire level as the 2001 [email protected], using the individual’s name. volatility. Employers trimmed greatly by the Easter holiday,” recession. The economy has WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT 63,000 jobs in February. said Richard Yamarone, chief lost a total of 232,000 jobs in ©2008 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. The industry’s manufactur- economist at Argus Research the last three months, an aver- VOLUME 195, NO. 74. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with ing sector also continued to Corp. “Early Easter did as well age of 77,000 each month. In the one additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, May, June, August and November, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of trim jobs, losing a total of 5,100. as it could to help the retail sec- three months before the 2001 Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided Textile mills shed 2,900 jobs, tor out. Unfortunately, it wasn’t recession, the economy shed by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, to 157,900, and textile product enough. It couldn’t help the 355,000 jobs, a monthly average Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/ Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications mills added 300 positions, to weakness being driven by hous- of 118,000, he said. Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: 153,300. Apparel producers cut ing activity.” Brian Bethune, chief econo- return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: 2,500 jobs, to 197,600. The decline in the depart- mist for Global Insight Inc., said SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA “Weak U.S. manufacturers ment store sector was driven the economy likely went into re- 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit were weeded out long ago,” primarily by the housing crisis cession last December when pri- www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new said Auggie Tantillo, execu- because of the stores’ reliance vate payroll employment started subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production tive director of the American on home categories, Yamarone to decline correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Manufacturing Trade Action said. The overall job losses in “The tea leaves for April Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list Coalition. “Those domestic man- the economy came mostly from point in the direction of another available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. ufacturers with their doors still the auto industry, manufactur- decline in employment of close If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, open are the most competitive ing and housing-related sectors. to 100,000,” Bethune stated. OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY Ck Calvin Klein Exec Departs A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. By Whitney Beckett tor of Calvin Klein’s European Klein businesses from Fingen MONDAY: Los Angeles Majors Market (through business, which is owned by the SpA. Prior to that, he’d been Wednesday). aetano Sallorenzo has left Inc. with Giorgio Armani Corp. for Las Vegas International Lingerie Show (through Ghis post as president and “The move centralizes all the fi ve years, leaving as president Wednesday). chief executive officer of ck commercial aspects of the busi- of sales and marketing for the Calvin Klein and ck ness in the U.K. and is consis- Armani Group’s U.S. subsidiary. TUESDAY: Material World, Miami Beach (through for Europe and Asia. tent with the company’s strategy Last week, Marco Bortoletti Thursday). Market sources indicate he’s to leverage our resources across resigned as ceo of Fashion heading to Replay, but the Italian the enterprise,” said a spokes- Box, the holding company of WEDNESDAY: Miami Fashion Week (through Sunday). and sportswear company woman for Warnaco. the Replay, Replay & Sons declined comment Friday. Based in London, Axmacher will and We Are Replay brands. THURSDAY: Major U.S. retailers report March same- Sallorenzo, who was based report directly to Joseph Gromek, The company said last week it store sales. in Florence, is succeeded by Warnaco president and ceo. plans to name a new group ceo The U.S. Department of Commerce releases the Thomas Axmacher, president Sallorenzo joined Warnaco in shortly. February foreign trade report. of Calvin Klein Underwear February 2006 when the company — With contributions from Europe, as managing direc- bought the international Calvin Luisa Zargano FRIDAY: International Vision Expo East, New York (through Sunday).

COMING THIS WEEK SATURDAY: China Sourcing Fair, Hong Kong (through Les Copains Names D’Amato to Design Role April 15).

By Andrew Roberts portant signal, with the introduction of a new designer who had connota- Clarifi cation MILAN — Italian knitwear special- tions of that modernity and creativity La Mer cohosted a party with Tina Brown and Vicky Ward for ist Les Copains has tapped Albino that we’d like to give the company in Susan Nagel’s book “Marie-Therese: Child of Terror” on Tuesday. D’Amato as a creative consultant the future.” This was unclear in a story on page 5, Thursday. and plans to develop its men’s wear Acciai said the strategic plan in- business. volves building Les Copains men’s The 33-year-old D’Amato said wear business, as well as overhaul- Also out today Friday that he has been advis- ing the brand’s distribution and ing Les Copains’ in-house design store network. team since the departure of for- “Following detailed market re- mer creative director Antonio search, we realized that male con- Berardi, whose contract expired in sumers had quite a clear, demarcat- WWD February. ed perception of the brand,” Acciai “We will debut with the next said. “This represents a huge op- COLLECTIONS Albino D’Amato spring-summer collection,” portunity for Les Copains.” The Top 10 Fall Collections D’Amato said. Acciai said the fi rst step in the His role of creative consultant is expected evolution of Les Copains’ men’s wear would be to The Art & Science of to mature into that of creative director in time, concentrate on quality, volumes, shapes and mate- Nicolas Ghesquière sources close to Les Copains told WWD. rials. He gave no further details. Enrico Acciai, managing director of BVM, D’Amato, a former assistant to Giambattista Karl Lagerfeld — A Man which owns Les Copains, said the decision not Valli at Emanuel Ungaro and a past winner of the in Motion to renew Berardi’s contract and to seek new cre- Italian Vogue and Alta Roma-sponsored Who Is Vera Wang’s Arrival Time ative input was part of a three-year strategic plan On Next contest, launched an eponymous collec- to strengthen the brand worldwide. tion in 2004 and also designs for vintage Italian Defi ning Moments “Mr. Berardi did an extraordinary job,” Acciai brand VictorVictoria. He has also worked with Trends, Trends, Trends said. “But it was absolutely necessary to give an im- Emilio Pucci, Dolce & Gabbana and Versace.

4 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 7, 2008

Kanye West performs for the crowd.

A partygoer shops from a Vuitton vendor.

Jeanne Greenberg Linda Evangelista in Prada. Rohatyn in Rick Owens scores a Murakami place mat. Fake Out “Psst, check ’em out, check ’em out, nice , we’ll set you up,” an ominous hooded fi gure hissed, surrounded by Louis Vuitton Murakami bags outside the Brooklyn Museum. The salesman was one of 10 vendors hawking authentic Vuitton gear who’d set up shop Thursday night in the courtyard, a sort of faux Canal Street, in honor of the new “© Murakami” exhibit and Brooklyn Ball. “It looks like a bazaar, it’s hysterical,” Linda Evangelista said as she swanned inside. Helen Schifter couldn’t help but participate in the scene, snatching up a mini-bottle of Moët from a hot dog cart. “I should really be a Champagne seller,” she said, shouting, “$5, $5” to everyone as they passed. Marc Jacobs arrived (in an outfi t more befi tting “Miami Vice” than Brooklyn) with Eva Herzigova, who had shot Vuitton’s fall campaign earlier in Chiho Aoshima in the day. “I never bought a fake anything,” he Louis Vuitton. professed. “Not a fake tooth, a fake or a Bernard fake Coca-Cola. I am 100 percent real.” Arnault Inside, Takashi Murakami, Bernard and Helene Arnault, Yves Carcelle, Richard Prince, Japanese artist Chiho Aoshima and Amalia Dayan were among those who wandered through the fi fth-fl oor exhibit. Kristin Davis stopped into the pop-up Vuitton boutique selling Murakami bags and new “Monogramofl auge” paintings, where she admitted she did own a fake Vuitton. But it was a gift, she swears. “I thought, ‘I can’t be seen wearing this,’” she said. ▼ After dinner, guests swiped their Murakami Eva Herzigova in Louis Vuitton. place mats off the tables for souvenirs (Larry Gagosian took a whole pile) and fi led into an adjacent hall where Kanye West heated up the crowd with a lengthy live performance. By midnight, a crew of partygoers, including Murakami, had jumped into their Town Cars and sped off to SoHo, where a slick, highly secure and all-white decor after party was Takashi Murakami held in a vacant loft.

Marc Jacobs snaps Anna Wintour modeling her Vuitton.

Amalia Dayan in Kristin Davis in Louis Vuitton. Alexander McQueen. Helen Schifter in Louis Vuitton. PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER AND STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTOS BY WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 7, 2008 5 WWD.COM PLAYING THE GAME Bruce Willis, Katie Couric, Patricia Clarkson, Fashion Scoops Clive Owen, Julianna Margulies, Harvey Weinstein and Georgina Chapman and socialites ROLLING STONE: During a swing through Paris late last week, Sharon Stone galore showed up at MoMA Thursday night was defi nitely in touch with her shopping instincts. Dressed in a tweed Dior for a screening of George Clooney’s latest fi lm, suit, the actress — trailed by paparazzi — did some damage at Fendi (a “Leatherheads.” Like the last fi lm he directed, and three handbags), and also hit Dior, Azzedine Alaïa, a Starbucks “Good Night & Good Luck,” the movie is a and some shops in the Marais. She was to give a speech about her AIDS period piece and the actor costars in it as well. efforts at the Sorbonne Sunday night at a forum on cultural, economic, But the similarities pretty much end scientifi c and political topics. there. While the former is a serious biopic about Edward R. Murrow and Sen. Joseph MAIER FETES MAYSLES: He may have missed his own Rodeo Drive store McCarthy, “Leatherheads” is a slapstick opening, but Bottega Veneta’s Tomas Maier will touch down in Beverly caper about a football team in the Twenties. Hills this week to host a dinner with Barneys New York’s Julie Gilhart at “I wanted to make a movie that wasn’t issue- the store’s rooftop Barneys Greengrass restaurant on Friday. The event, driven,” said Clooney. “Plus, I’m 46. Pretty honoring fi lmmaker and cinematographer Albert Maysles and his new soon, the only role I’ll be able to get in a tome “A Maysles Scrapbook,” will be attended by Dustin and Lisa Hoffman, sports movie is as the bowling coach.” Howard Socol, Mitch Glazer and Kelly Lynch, Jennifer Meyer, Laura and Kate At the dinner afterward at the 21 Club, Willis Mulleavy, Amanda and Wendy Goldberg, Liz Goldwyn, Elizabeth and Jim Wiatt, chatted with Ellen Barkin, while Clooney caught Bret Easton Ellis, Jacqui Getty and Cecilia Dean, probably more bold-faced up with old friend Heather Mnuchin. names per square foot than in a typical Rodeo Drive fete. Meanwhile, across the country in Clooney’s home base of Los Angeles, Brooke DAKS, DEACON PART WAYS: Daks, the London-based women’s and men’s Davenport opened her brand new Hollywood tailored brand, plans to terminate its high-end women’s line as Hills home for a showing of Kaufman of fall. As a result, it will no longer be working with Giles Deacon who had Franco’s fall collection. Though the setting designed the line, which showed in Milan. The company said it planned to was idyllic — “This feels like a vacation,” refocus its efforts on growing and developing the Daks men’s and women’s sighed Ken Kaufman (one-half of the design ready-to-wear lines. Deacon had designed the line for the past three team with partner Isaac Franco) — the seasons, and had just begun winning strong reviews. The luxury collection cobblestone patio proved to be hard work for had wholesale accounts worldwide, but did not sell in the U.S. In addition their Louboutin-clad models. to his signature line, Deacon designs a collection for the British high Among the guests seated at the orchid- street brand New Look, and was recently named chief designer of Fay, the laden long table were Rebecca Gayheart, clothing company owned by Tod’s Group. Alexandra von Furstenberg and Nicky Hilton. Though most of the guests opted for WHAT’S HIS NAME AGAIN?: James Bond is set to take Lake Garda by storm sleek black ensembles, the hostess tried to come April 14. Daniel Craig, in his second performance as the legendary coordinate with her decor: “Everything is secret agent, is due in Italy to shoot the latest 007 fl ick, which also marks white, so this was the only choice I had,” she the 100th birthday of its creator, Ian Fleming. Mandatory car chases and said of her white dress. action scenes will be fi lmed between the quaint — and usually quiet — villages of Tremosine, Limone sul Garda and Malcesine for more than 10 Nicky Hilton days. The movie, titled “Quantum of Solace,” is the 22nd Bond fl ick and in Kova & T. Patricia Clarkson and George Clooney will pick up an hour after the end of the last installment, “Casino Royale.” The fi lm is set to come out Nov. 7 in the U.S. and a week later in Italy.

Daniel Craig

Brooke BLACK ON BLACK: Scottish designer Graeme Black was the guest of honor Davenport in at a luncheon hosted by Neiman Marcus’ John Martens last Wednesday, Byrdie Bell at MoMA. Kaufman Franco. an intimate affair during which the designer narrated looks from his fall Emma Heming, Bruce collection, and shared a few anecdotes — but not too many — about his Willis and Ellen Barkin. gigs with John Galliano, Zandra Rhodes, Giorgio Armani and Ferragamo. “My fi rst day working for Galliano, he had me paint the walls. The next day I was cutting chiffon,” he said. “I’ve paid my dues.” The London- based designer said he’s striving to maintain the handcrafted details and luxe materials in his collection and keep it special and small — for now. “I think showing in an intimate setting in London is still right for me,” said Black, who showed his Scot-inspired fall collection in a fi replace store on Pimlico Road. For spring 2009, Black is returning to Scotland for inspiration — this time from the beach. “A lot of people don’t realize there are beaches there, they think I’m joking. But I actually went on holiday and got a tan.”

Alexandra von Furstenberg HOMELY FASHION: There was a time when Milan’s Salone del Mobile in Kaufman Franco and Ally furniture fair provided Italian fashion designers an opportunity to celebrate Bernstein in Moschino. design and, on occasion, try their hand at different creative media. Now The setting at the Davenport’s house. their interest has developed into a business, and Italy’s chamber of fashion is getting involved. The Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana is to coordinate a series of events during the fair next week to promote the home lines produced above all by Italian fashion houses and to showcase “the continual synergies and exchanges between fashion and design…both in terms of creativity and quality of production,” according to CNMI president Mario Boselli. Dubbed “Milano Moda Design,” the initiative will include home designs by Versace, Bottega Veneta, Fendi and Vivienne Westwood, among others, as well as textiles, special events and installations from April 15 to 21.

NOT SO QUIET: Continuing its yearlong 50th anniversary celebration, launched a Guest Designer Series last Wednesday. The casual label has tapped celebrity stylists Phillip Bloch and Rachel Fanconi for the men’s and women’s collections, respectively. “All the inspiration came from the company’s archives,” said Fanconi of the women’s pieces. “There’s a bit of me in there, but the mix of textures and the colors you see were very strong in ’58.” The series will be promoted globally through special packaging and imagery at points of sale in Hush Puppies stores, department stores and specialty shops beginning in August. “LEATHERHEAD” PHOTOS BY KRISTEN SOMODY WHALEN; KAUFMAN FRANCO BY TYLER BOYE BY FRANCO WHALEN; KAUFMAN KRISTEN SOMODY PHOTOS BY “LEATHERHEAD” 6 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 7, 2008

World View Caftans are one of fashion’s enduring inspirations, and designers can’t seem to get enough of them. This fall, they’re showing up in at-home gowns and long tunics. — Bobbi Queen

Graham Kandiah’s cotton caftan. Jewelry from Barbara Flood’s Closet. WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 7, 2008 7 WWD.COM ASSISTANT: DANIELLE SPONDER ASSISTANT:

Alberta Ferretti’s silk chiffon tunic and pants. Jewelry from Barbara Flood’s Closet. PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; MODEL: ANIA/SUPREME; HAIR BY DARIA WRIGHT FOR DARIAWRIGHT.COM; MAKEUP BY MIZU FOR PRICE INC.; FASHION MAKEUP BY DARIA WRIGHT FOR DARIAWRIGHT.COM; GEORGE CHINSEE; MODEL: ANIA/SUPREME; HAIR BY PHOTOS BY

Tibet Kailash’s embroidered silk . from Jose & Maria Barrera.

Silk and cotton caftan with wood trim from Josie Natori Couture. Earrings from Barbara Flood’s Closet; Monies . 8 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 7, 2008

Accessories Report Janis by Janis Savitt sphered Stefani’s L.A.M.B. Bags Go Luxe bangles. By Caroline Tell at the top 35 of L.A.M.B.’s 250 doors, including cer- tain Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s locations as wen Stefani’s L.A.M.B. label is adding high- well as Intermix and Henri Bendel. The collec- Gend handbags to its roster. tion will also establish L.A.M.B.’s presence The four-year-old fi rm, whose accessories internationally, premiering in such stores are produced in partnership with Schifter as Tsum in Moscow, Lane Crawford in + Partners, has launched a Black Label Hong Kong and Harvey Nichols and line called Aston, hitting stores this fall. Handbags from Villa Moda in the Middle East. The bags The collection retails from $525 for L.A.M.B.’s will also sell on eluxury.com as well as a clutch to $1,495 for a limited edition Aston appear in the luxury catalogue Vivre. Janis Savitt Goes Solo carryall and is inspired by vintage collection. “Having an upscale collection al- British sports cars. With style lows us to differentiate our as- names such as the Lotus and sortment of various retailers,” With High-Fashion Line Winston, the Aston bags fea- said Schifter, whose fi rm also ture special detailing such produces accessories for Jill rom creating high-impact shaky retail climate, consumers as layers of perforated and Stuart, Harajuku Lovers and Fearrings with Steven Sprouse want innovative designs that pebble-grain leather mixed Kidrobot. “And we believe to conceiving Ralph Lauren’s are not only affordable but well- with patent leather piping that adding the Black Label Western-inspired pieces, Michelle made and stylish. and suede strips. Each of collection as an upper tier and Janis Savitt of M+J Savitt are “In an economic downturn, the eight styles is equipped is a very sensible approach among the more infl uential play- customers are looking for more with black and gray striped to fashion today. The retail ers in jewelry today. focused ways to stay abreast of lining, gunmetal hardware conditions that exist always But after a 30-year partner- trends,” said Suzanne Hader, and matte black hangtags. demand high-end product that ship that began by crafting pa- principal at 400twin Luxury Tim Schifter, chairman and chief ex- is not only sophisticated, but produced and pier-mâché jewelry in their par- Brand Consulting. “Jewelry is ecutive offi cer of Schifter + Partners, distributed in limited edition.” ents’ New York apartment, one not replicated as quickly or as projects the collection will generate The Aston collection is priced ap- Savitt is going solo. The “J” in well as clothing, and you can approximately 10 percent of L.A.M.B.’s proximately 30 percent above the aver- M+J Savitt is launching her own tell the quality by looking at total sales in its fi rst year. He age L.A.M.B. handbag. For fall, Schifter fashion jewelry collection: Janis someone’s neck. And the jew- describes the collection, as well as also added a new line as the brand’s by Janis Savitt for fall. elry market has a lot of space the entire L.A.M.B. brand, as “ir- opening price point, the Soft “I fi gured now is the time for really powerful brands to reverent luxury.” Signature collection, which re- to start expressing my- be developed — espe- “Gwen designs prints that push tails from $295 to $395. self as Janis Savitt, cially in the the envelope, and she does things “I love the designing process for not M+J Savitt,” part of it. There’s that are so differentiated from the handbags,” said Stefani. “It’s Savitt said. “It’s Tiffany, Van Cleef the rest of the market,” Schifter always evolving and changing each not easy but it’s & Arpels, Harry said. “And the crazier and more season. This season I loved mix- gratifying that I Winston — but irreverent they are, the better ing different materials like leather am doing what when it comes they do. The bags really resonate and suede and then putting the I want to do. I to the middle with consumers and retailers.” L.A.M.B. twist on it.…I look for- want to make range, there’s The Aston collection will be ward to expanding the L.A.M.B. things that are more room for available in limited distribution brand even more.” different but understandable A cuff from to people.” Janis Savitt Savitt’s new The split came collection. about when Michelle Savitt married and moved to California. She will continue designing for the M+J Savitt business with the third Savitt sister, Wynne, who handles sales for the fi rm. According to Janis, the separa- tion was amicable; she was sim- ply ready to branch out. “I wanted to do other things,” Savitt said. “I had all of these amazing offers and I never went for them. I thought it was the time for myself to do it.” Retailing from $75 to $3,000, other designers to come and Savitt’s fall collection is, so far, take over the imagination of one part homage to her moth- consumers at the aspirational er’s personal jewelry collection to luxury level.” — with Harry Winston-esque Having been in the jewelry pear-shape and marquee-cut business for more than three Swarovski crystals mounted in decades, Savitt is keenly aware heavy brass — and the other of her customers’ need for luxu- part modern, high-fashion rious, unique pieces. pieces, such as braided steel “At one point I had to ask, chains mixed with pearls. One ‘How many pairs of hoops do collection is based entirely on people need?’” Savitt said. spheres — a pendant features “You need basic things and clusters of cascading balls in then you need other things. gold-plated brass. And the other things need to be Savitt will show her line exciting. In this world, if you from her Upper West Side stu- have something that’s a little dio, and will participate bit interesting and a little bit in the Accessories different, it’s something that Circuit next month. people want.” She expects the — C.T. new collection to bring in ap- proximately $5 million in its fi rst year A Janis by Janis at retail. Savitt necklace. As she did at M+J Savitt, she is focused on design- ing pieces that walk the line between costume and fine jewelry, and the timing for her debut appears just right. The fashion jewelry market is gaining speed both on the run-

PHOTOS BY ROBERT MITRA; PORTRAIT BY THOMAS IANNACCONE BY PORTRAIT MITRA; ROBERT PHOTOS BY way and in stores. Given today’s WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 7, 2008 9 WWD.COM

Icon’s goal is to distribute both brands’ to by several of the contemporary handbag designers. 1,000 sporting goods and department store doors in a year. EXTENDING THE BRAND: Elaine Turner, a Houston-based FINDINGS CONTEMPORARY GROWS: Alexis Hudson is part of the new handbag designer, is getting her on. Launching contemporary handbag selection at Saks Fifth Avenue this this month, Turner’s footwear collection retails from MICHELE GOES FOR EYEWEAR: Michele spring. Eight styles are entering seven doors, said Emily Ironi, $125 to $225 and includes fl ip-fl ops, ballet has found a place in the sun. The who coowns the three-year-old Southern California brand fl ats and wedge styles — all of which will eight-year-old fashion fi rm with designer Rachelle Copeland. Among the key styles echo the current spring handbag has launched a high-end eyewear are a framed clutch retailing for $525, a convertible collection. “Shoes are collection. Hitting stores this bag that goes from short to long for $895 and a quilted a natural extension of month, the sunglasses are leather bag with a chain handle for $685. handbags,” Turner said. Wedges by produced in partnership with Patti Cho, a contemporary handbag buyer at “So to truly communicate Elaine Turner. Fossil and retail from $250 to Saks, said the luxury chain has been scouting our brand identity, we $1,250. They feature the same brands that offer stores exclusivity and customers felt that shoes were the striking details as the , some sophistication. next natural step for our including hand-set diamonds and “We are working on upping the ante with our growth strategy.” mother-of-pearl embellishments. assortment,” Cho said. Elaine Turner footwear Michele eyewear will be available For cruise and spring, Cho pointed out that will be available at at michele.com, Nordstrom and Saks also has brought in Treesje, Rebecca all Tootsies locations luxury specialty stores. “Since Minkoff, Botkier and Foley & Corinna. On in Houston, Dallas and sunglasses are the ultimate Michele Saturday, the new contemporary selection Atlanta, in addition to A White + Warren , we believe eyewear. of handbags was feted at the Saks Turner’s soon-to-open store handbag. that it is a natural brand fl agship in New York, with appearances in Houston’s Rice Village. extension for Michele,” said Michele Barouh, creative director.

WHITE + WARREN’S WEEKENDER: White + Warren was onto something when it created the ultimate cashmere travel — perfect for long fl ights where airplane blankets just won’t do. After launching other luxurious travel accessories, such as cashmere and eye masks, the jet-set look is being completed by the brand’s new travel bags. Wholesaling from $65 for a clutch to $300 for a weekend traveler, the hemp and leather bags have every pocket in place and zipper within reach to ensure a quick whisk through security. “The need for travel accessories has become apparent as the luxury consumer is constantly on the move, whether going to exotic locations, business trips or vacation homes,” said Barbara Warren, co-founder and creative director of White + Warren.

LUNCHEON HONORS JEWISH PHILANTHROPISTS: The Jewish Women’s Foundation of New York is hosting a benefi t luncheon on Thursday at the Pierre Hotel to honor women who have made signifi cant contributions in education, advocacy and fund- raising in the Jewish community. Honorees include Jane Weitzman, executive vice president of Stuart Weitzman, and Darcy Miller Nussbaum, weddings editorial director of Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia. Gail Saltz, psychiatrist, author and TV commentator, will preside as master of ceremonies. More information can be found at jewishwomenny.org.

EYES ON : American Sporting Goods has entered into a license agreement with Icon Eyewear to produce and distribute sunglasses for the And1 and Avia brands. “ASG selected Icon Eyewear as the licensee for Avia and And1 sunglasses in large part for their renowned expertise in fashion and sport design, as well as their diligent attention to utilizing quality materials,” said Tom O’Riordan, chief executive offi cer of Southern California-based ASG. Metal shields and plastic aviators will be highlights of Avia’s sporty spring collection for women and men. For male competitive athletes, And1’s offerings will feature high-tech biking and running with aluminum and plastic frames in polycarbonate and polycarbonate polarized lenses. General fi tness buffs will be able to purchase And1 active-inspired frames in metal and plastic. Wholesale prices for And1 and Avia frames range from about $15 to $30. 10 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 7, 2008 WWD.COM Innerwear Report Online Lingerie Sales Take Off By Karyn Monget this year, it’s up 40 percent against the fi rst quarter in 2007.” He noted that Web sales account for 90 percent of the com- FRILLY LITTLE THINGS ARE TAKING OVER THE WEB. pany’s total business, which is approximately $35 million, Lingerie business on dedicated sites as well as those operated by compared with 70 percent in 2004. Best-selling brands are specialty stores is booming, with annual sales gains of 15 to 40 percent , Spanx, , Hanro and Hue legwear, he said. and higher, according to merchants. Maureen Stabnau, vice president of marketing at Bare In some cases, retailers’ online businesses are becoming so lucra- Necessities, noted, “A lot of things now go into the [online] mix. tive that they are beginning to account for a bigger slice of the $12.6 bil- We realize our ability is to plan and execute, and it’s a combi- lion innerwear business at retail. While it still represents a small seg- nation of in-house merchandising, marketing, technology and ment of overall lingerie sales, executives attribute the sales increases a customer service team. We’ve become very good at giving to four main factors: the right merchandise and presentation to the consumer in a ● The credit crunch and rising gas prices, which are limiting visits simple, meaningful way. At the end of the day, if you don’t have to the local shopping mall. the right technology behind it, you’ll sell the products, but you ● The convenience factor of purchasing intimate apparel in the pri- won’t be able to maximize the business you want.” vacy of one’s home. Regarding the aesthetics of a Web site, Gestetner of myla. ● More product options whether it’s styles, colors or sizes that can- com observed, “You can do it on a shoestring budget, but not be stocked in traditional stores that have limited space. you won’t get the results. You have to represent the theater ● A fast and hassle-free way of shopping when consumers have little you offer in the store. Today with broadband, consumers time to shop at brick-and-mortar stores. don’t expect a boring, bland, one-dimensional Web site. To Internet Retailer’s 2007 Top 500 Guide of retail Web sites ranks four do what they want to see, you have to spend the money. You lingerie specialists within the top 100: Victoria’s Secret, which took the have to treat it as its own revenue stream.” fi rst spot in 2006 with Web sales of $1.1 billion; Frederick’s of Hollywood, Gestetner further noted, “I’ve been in this game for 10 which claimed 37th place with online sales of $55.6 million; Bare years. The Internet has come of age and now everyone, from Necessities in the 54th slot with Web sales of $26.2 million, and Jockey our parents to our children, is shopping online. That’s a International in the 67th spot with e-commerce sales of $17.3 million. massive move. We’re time-poor, and have less time to spend The top-selling categories are , shapewear, sleepwear, sports on ourselves. So the Internet is the route for indulgence. bras, dual-purpose loungewear and luxury brands, mainly in founda- About three-quarters of our online customers are repeat tions, said executives. purchasers.” Online sales are up 15 percent against a year Since it is a fashion item as well as an everyday mainstay, a key ago, and the company is planning a redo this year of the reason that lingerie is one of the most sought-after apparel categories fi ve-year-old Web site, he said. online is that the Web allows consumers to see the product on a model, Cecelia Pagkalinawan, director of Web and e-com- not a hanger. Therefore, a woman can see how she will look wearing the merce business at Frette Inc., said online sales, primar- product, and men who buy gifts can visualize how a wife or girlfriend ily of Frette lingerie, have jumped 77 percent over the will appear in the item. And as consumers become more tech savvy, past year. Frette’s e-commerce business was launched in Internet retailers are reporting that an increasing number of shoppers November 2006. are making online purchases of items shown in the print catalogue, “We fi nd that to be amazing, considering the current instead of phoning in an order. economic situation. Sales have consistently grown from While establishing and maintaining an e-commerce business is gener- month to month. The Web site has been a great customer ally less costly than operating traditional stores, online retailers said the acquisition vehicle with 72 percent of our customers being costs of creating a state-of-the-art Web site — which includes marketing new to Frette,” she said. “We attribute the gains partially and , keeping the content fresh, technology, constantly chang- from luxury customers being more accustomed to buying ing the imagery and operating a distribution facility — are becoming as ex- online, being able to reach locations where we do not have pensive as brick-and-mortar stores. The annual costs range from $150,000 physical stores, and a broader Frette brand awareness to $250,000, and in some cases, agencies are asking for $500,000 to develop from our public relations and marketing efforts. We have e-commerce sites, according to Daniel Gestetner, chief executive offi cer of U.K.-based myla.com and 13 Myla stores. Gestetner cofounded shopsmart. com in 1998 with his brother Leo and sold the $500 million business to a division of Barclay Bank in 2001. Linda LoRe, president and ceo of A look at lingerie Web home pages: .com, pajamagram.com, Frederick’s of Hollywood, which operates fredericks.com and barenecesseties.com. 137 stores and a catalogue and e-commerce business, said Frederick’s 10-year-old Internet business has increased “dramati- cally” since 2005. “In aggregate over the past three years, our online marketing business has grown 43 percent, with double-digit growth each year,” said LoRe. “We are also seeing our catalogue customer using the Web as their preferred transaction channel. Seventy per- cent of our catalogue orders are placed on our site, a 10 percent increase over the last three years.” Singling out the Frederick’s customer who shops online, LoRe said, “Our core cus- tomer, whom we call the ‘Sexy Spender,’ is very brand loyal and looks to Frederick’s of Hollywood for the hottest lingerie and appar- el trends of the season. As an avid consumer of our product, she has the highest propensity to shop online where she can see our largest product assortment.” Irene Steiner, vice president of marketing at Shelburne, Vt.-based pajamagram.com, a unit of Vermont Bear Co., said 80 per- cent of the $40 million division, which includes catalogues, is generated by online nine stores, with our 10th store opening in late summer in Boston’s Mandarin Oriental sales. Steiner said annual sales volume from 2002 to 2007 has grown steadily from $1.5 Hotel. The online store consistently ranks among our fi ve top stores, which we fi nd million to $6.1 million to $9.8 million to $20.6 million to $29.4 million to $35.5 million. interesting, especially since the other stores have been open for many years.” She added that the marketing spend for 2007 was $12 million. Tomima Edmark, president of Dallas-based Andra Group, created herroom.com “It’s been a rocket ship up here,” said Steiner. “We are a sister company of Vermont in 2000 as a resource for bras, and shapers. Since then, she has expanded Teddy Bear, which markets to adult men who buy our bears as gifts for wives and into sleepwear, men’s underwear and activewear for women and men with labels like girlfriends as an alternative to fl owers and chocolates. But women were not buying . She would not give an annual sales fi gure, but said renvenues have the bears. So we started talking to women, and they loved the idea of . The increased 34 percent against the same year-ago period. pajamas are packaged beautifully in an organza box, a sachet and a little sign that “We have extensive consumer feedback. We [women] assume when it comes to says ‘Do Not Disturb.’” sports bras, there’s high-impact and low-impact, but how do you know if your breasts Steiner said the online demand for pj’s has gained such momentum that the com- are not bouncing when working out? So, we introduced The Bounce Test, where every pany has expanded into an entire realm of pj’s with logos including Super Mom, sports classifi ed as high-impact on our site is featured in a video. The model is a Super Dad, Super Baby and Super Dog, which has a drop-seat that can be mono- 34D. We have approximately 40 of these videos on our site. We do the same with vid- grammed with the family’s name or the dog’s name. eos of The 20 Step Test for control bike and every fi rm control shapewear gar- Dan Sackrowitz, vice president of marketing and business development at Bare ment that has legs. Each video begins with the placement of a black tape at the edge Necessities, which has headquarters in Avenel, N.J., said the company has three of the garment’s leg. The model performs 20 steps — as if going up a staircase — on stores and operates 10-year-old barenecessities.com. “For the past three or four years, video and then the camera zooms in to see if the garment crept up the leg. We have 33 our online business has grown consistently by 40 percent or above each year. So far of these videos on our site.” WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 7, 2008 11 WWD.COM Quest Integration Buoys Givaudan Sales in First Quarter

PARIS — Boosted by the inte- fi rm stated. Karen Buglisi Buglisi joined MAC as gration of Quest International Buglisi Tapped for MAC Post With the promotion, her du- vice president of sales and Inc., fragrance and flavors sup- NEW YORK — MAC Cosmetics ties will be expanded so that training for North America plier Givaudan generated first- has named Karen Buglisi se- she will work closely with the a decade ago and has been quarter 2008 sales that were nior vice president and gener- general manager of MAC’s in- a “key” player contributing up 18.3 percent year-on-year to al manager of global sales, art- ternational business, Sandra to the brand’s performance 1.05 billion Swiss francs, or $986 ist training and development Main, and the brand’s vice since that time, according to million at average exchange. and finance, a new posi- the company. She was pro- In local currencies, rev- tion, the Estée Lauder moted in 2000 to senior vice enues increased 27.7 percent. Cos. Inc.-owned brand president of sales and art- On a pro forma basis, assum- said Friday. ist training and, two years ing Quest’s business had been Buglisi, who was most BEAUTY BEAT later, her duties were ex- consolidated since Jan. 1, recently MAC’s senior panded to include the Latin 2007, and excluding the im- vice president of sales and gen- president of global fi nance and American market. pact of portfolio streamlining, eral manager for the Americas, forecasting, Bob Dunham. Prior to joining MAC, Givaudan’s sales grew 0.7 per- will continue to be responsible Buglisi reports to John Buglisi was national sales cent in Swiss francs and 1.9 for business development for Demsey, group president at manager at Adipar. She percent in local currencies. global artist training and devel- Lauder. “[She] is the consum- ies the spirit of the MAC brand began her career as cosmetics The Vernier, Switzerland- opment, sales administration, mate team motivator,” Demsey and is a of the artist buyer at Hecht’s. based firm’s fragrance divi- retail events and the fi eld, the stated. “She lives and embod- at point-of-sale.” — Matthew W. Evans sion posted revenues of 489.1 million Swiss francs, or $458 million, up 21.9 percent in Swiss francs and 30.6 percent in local currencies. Pro forma, fragrance sales declined 7.8 percent in Swiss francs and 1.1 percent in local currencies. A decline in fi ne fragrances, which traditionally generate around 20 percent of the divi- sion’ sales, was due to a diffi - cult comparison with a strong fi rst quarter in 2007. The fi ne- fragrance unit’s performance also suffered from the effect of disappointing holiday fra- grance sales in Europe and North America, the fi rm noted. Meanwhile, revenues from fi ne fragrance were flat in Latin America as Givaudan was un- able to repeat the strong growth it achieved in the fi rst quarter of 2007. Givaudan’s consumer prod- ucts business, which gener- ates some 65 percent of the fragrance division sales, de- livered “good growth against strong prior-year compa- rables,” the company stated, adding fabric care and soaps recorded the unit’s strongest performances, followed by per- sonal care. For the division by region, North American sales de- creased slightly versus last year’s double-digit growth. The Asia-Pacific region achieved gains, especially with local and regional customers, Givaudan said. Growth was strong in China, India and Vietnam, while in Japan, sales rose in the double digits. Europe, Africa and the Middle East increased revenues across all segments. Growth in Latin America was led by Mexico. Revenues declined in Givaudan’s fragrance ingredi- ents business, which accounts for around 15 percent of the fragrance division’s sales, due to the discontinuing of low-val- ue commodity ingredients. The ongoing phasing out reduced that unit’s sales by 3.3 million Swiss francs, or $3 million. Sales of specialty ingredi- ents, or so-called higher-valued fragrance captives, maintained their double-digit growth tra- jectory. The latest molecule, Spirogalbanone Pure, a green galbanum note, hit the market this January. Givaudan said it expects to achieve cost savings this year of 130 million Swiss francs, or $128.4 million, by integrating synergies and confirmed the company is on track to reach pre-acquisition profit-margin levels by 2010. — Ellen Groves 12 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 7, 2008 WWD.COM Children’s Wear Report Big Plans for LittleMissMatched Appaman Jumps By Julee Kaplan A desk from the brand’s new furniture Into Denim World NEW YORK — Walking into the new collection and the LittleMissMatched shop-in-shop at Macy’s Herald Square. LittleMissMatched headquarters here at 307 Seventh By Cecily Hall Avenue, it becomes clear this is a world that does, in- deed, clash — in a colorful, creative way. ppaman is looking for a perfect fit with its upcom- It could be an offi ce, as there are people sit- A ing denim collection. ting at desks and typing away on computers, but The New York-based hipster brand — a favorite it could also easily be a large tween bedroom. among celebrities — is set to launch a 13-piece denim There is a white dresser, scribbled all over with line this summer. The collection offi cially previewed at what looks like the work of a doodling child; a the ENK Children’s Club show in March, and will be in bed (with an interchangeable headboard) cov- stores by July. ered with bright polkadot and striped bedding “Denim has always been in the plans for us,” said that can be interchanged to create 184 different Lynn Husum, co-founder of Appaman, who spear- looks, and someone else’s desk is placed under a headed the denim collection. “And we really wanted bunk bed. There are racks and racks of colorful a classic line — something that would last a long time mismatched , shoelaces, hair accessories, and complement our T-. We wanted to do it right, journals, pencils and toys on a wall. This is clearly though — not with just one or two pieces, but with an the new home of LittleMissMatched, launched in entire collection.” San Francisco in 2004 by three partners — Arielle The denim items range in wholesale prices from $23 Eckstut, Jason Dorf and Jonah Staw — and seek- to $38 and from size 6 months to size 8. Pieces include ing to build a brand based on bringing out the cre- jumpers, and for girls and and ative side of its customers. pants for both girls and boys. “We’re looking The company, which started with the launch forward to building it slowly each season,” of mismatched socks sold in packs of three to en- noted Husum. “For example, we’ll want to courage mixing and matching, has grown consid- bring a coverall for girls, or a denim shirt erably over the past few years. In 2005, the found- for boys. We’ll defi nitely add to it.” ers expected to bring in $5 million in retail sales. The brand itself was founded by By the close of 2007, they far surpassed that num- Husum and her husband, Harald, a ber — generating more than $25 million in retail Norwegian designer, in 2003 — Harald sales volume. is the main designer behind the brand. Of course, LittleMissMatched’s product mix The name Appaman comes from his has also expanded. The fi rm now offers every- childhood “friend” — a stuffed animal thing from socks and school supplies to furniture, with the same name, which means bedding and books. The brand is sold in 3,000 “monkey man” in Norwegian. stores (not including furniture retailers) including In designing the collection, Macy’s, FAO Schwarz, J.C. Penney and Bed Bath & Husum’s husband wanted to put his Beyond. For fall, the company will enter a whole own European spin on American new sector as it launches a full apparel line for iconic imagery. “I wanted to create women and girls. A look a line that mirrored my own casual “Since we started the company, we’ve had this vision to build it into a full lifestyle brand for tweens to from the sense of style,” he stated. “Appaman’s express who she really is,” said Staw. “We may have started with socks, but we knew it would eventually new denim graphics are bold and clean, so they become so much more than that.” collection. appeal to children and parents Staw said the focus of the brand has been broken down into three elements where different product catego- alike.” Popular items in the current ries fall — there’s her stuff, where Staw said they place apparel and accessories; her room, where there’s the collection, which features girls’ and bedroom furniture, decor and bedding, and her life, for publishing (two more books, “The Writer in Me” and boys’ pieces for ages 6 months to size “The Artist in Me,” will launch soon) and school sup- 8, include the line of graphic T-shirts and plies. So, Staw explained, the apparel was a natural motorcycle jackets. Items in the current next step. spring collection that are featured: track- Each piece in the apparel line has a dual purpose , , polo T-shirts, cotton one- — there’s a T-shirt that comes with detachable long sies, , pajamas and halter , sleeves that can be mixed up and matched. There’s among other pieces. a super-long dress designed so the wearer can cut Since 2003, the company has grown at it to create a dress at the exact length she wants. a steady pace, and sales for 2007 were ap- The tags on the garments also will encourage the cus- proximately $1.5 million — estimated 2008 tomer to create something out of the extra fabric, to sales should reach $3 million. The brand make a or maybe even a . There also is found in about 500 U.S. doors, as well are dresses where the , sleeves and even as in Europe, Canada, Japan, Mexico and the zip off to create a variety of new looks. Dubai. In the U.S., it’s carried by stores such as Fred All of the apparel is designed and manufactured Segal and Kitson in Los Angeles, Calypso in New York in-house through the company’s large facility in and Genius Jones in Miami Beach. Celebrities known Iowa. The line wholesales from $15 to $80. to have bought the label for their children include Brad A T-shirt with interchangeable “This is really just the beginning of the ap- Pitt and Angelina Jolie, David and Victoria Beckham, sleeves from LittleMissMatched’s parel for us,” Staw said. “It’s a major investment Chris Martin and Gwyneth Paltrow and David Arquette apparel collection, launching for fall. and we see it growing into something really big.” and Courteney Cox.

group, such as a gossamer Empire- dress in creamy diamond- patterned lace, similarly replicates stylings from the adult line. Ella Moss Thinks Small Floral prints explode on bohemian buttercup print By Jeremy Allen and dresses, while the Coco collection concentrates on A-line dresses, princess sleeves and bold candy colors. LOS ANGELES — Contemporary women’s label Ella “It’s fun, it’s bright, it’s playful,” affirmed Moss is expecting a new addition to its family. Proetzel. “We’ve kept the same soft, cozy quality Little Ella, targeted at two- to seven-year-olds, ar- that Ella Moss has and brought it to the chil- rives in stores this fall after the spring launch of the dren’s market.” Little Ella tween line, for girls age seven to 14. Wholesaling from $19 to $33, Little Ella will “We decided to launch to fi ll a new need in be sold nationwide at Barneys New York, the market,” said Pamella Proetzel, designer Lesters and Kidville in New York, Ron of Ella Moss and Little Ella. “I have a lot of Robinson at Fred Segal, Lisa Klein Kids friends who are new mothers who wanted and Blue Bee Kids here. First-year whole- something fun and girly but fashionable Little Ella’s sale volume is estimated at $2 million. as well.” sherbet striped Mo Industries, based here, is the brain- Distilling Ella Moss’ signature whimsy dress. child of law school graduate Moise Emquies. into fi ve groups, Proetzel created an 18-piece The company was founded in 1992 with the launch collection that has style cred. of Leopold, a contemporary line designed by Proetzel. Upon the “We like to take a lot of Ella Moss’ little elements like lace closing of that line nine years later, Emquies developed Splendid, details and striping and tailor it down to cute shapes for little a casual contemporary collection, in 2002. Since the launch, the girls,” Proetzel said. brand has grown to incorporate a men’s line, Splendid Mills, The collection features an array of mini Ella Moss styles and baby collection, Splendid Littles, in 2005. Proetzel took such as fl oaty soft tops, tunic hoodies and dresses in broad hori- the design helm of Emquies’ second venture, Ella Moss, also zontal sherbet and jewel-toned stripes, taking a cue from Ella launched in 2002, overseeing the addition of two new lines in Moss’ signature striped Laurel styles. Little Ella’s Stardust Lace 2007, Ella Moss Girl and Ella Moss Black Label.

14 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 7, 2008 WWD.COM Banana Opens First Monogram Store Continued from page one Banana Republic customers will be serviced by stores on Broadway in SoHo and in the Flatiron District. At a time when the retailer’s core shoppers may be feeling the pinch of rising gas prices and a weak economy, BR Monogram is an interesting ex- periment. It comes at a time when many other chains are trying the same strategy, from J. Crew to Ann Taylor and Coach. J. Crew’s higher-priced, limited edition J. Crew Collection was initially launched to complement the original assortment. But what began as a small line has grown into a business of its own with a separate Collection Web site and the fi rst Collection store slated to open on Madison Avenue in May. Ann Taylor in September introduced a line also called Collection that is priced 40 percent above its core merchandise. Collection features suits and dresses in fabrics from some of the same mills used by designer brands, such as Loro Piana. Meanwhile, Coach in 2006 introduced items such as exotic animal skin handbags priced 48 percent higher than its traditional products. Last year, the accessories house formally named the stand-alone collection Legacy. Geared to the logo-craving crowd of “It” bag worshipers, Coach has found a market for $10,000 alligator handbags, launched as part of the Legacy collection. The fi rst two Legacy boutiques opened in the fall on Bleecker Street here and Robertson Boulevard in Los Angeles. BR Monogram aims to tap into this same customer who is fashion-ob- sessed but on a budget. Visitors to BR Monogram will fi nd a very different Two views of BR Monogram's atmosphere than typical Banana Republic stores. “Step out of the every- residential design. day and into the extraordinary,” begins a statement about the brand’s phi- CENTENO TALAYA PHOTOS BY losophy, writ large in brushed silver letters against a wall painted in Benjamin Moore’s Rock Gray. “A limited edition Calhoun said he saw great potential within Banana collection defi ned by exquisite fabrics, distinctive details Republic for freestanding retail for Monogram. “We’re con- and modern silhouettes, Monogram is the most eloquent stantly talking about it,” he said, adding that the brand has expression of style.” tremendous potential. Banana Republic quietly launched Monogram for men in A spokeswoman said Thursday that Kneen’s infl uence the fall. Women’s has now launched for spring and is being will fi rst be felt on the spring 2009 collection. sold in 30 Banana Republic stores. The company declined “There’s more elevated fabrications and detailing,” said to say whether further freestanding stores will be opened. Monogram’s spokeswoman. “It’s a more sophisticated sen- The retailer in January appointed Simon Kneen, for- sibility that can go from day into evening.” merly of Brooks Brothers’ parent Retail Brand Alliance, as The store environment is more sophisticated, too, with executive vice president of design and creative director. At residential furniture such as Billy Baldwin sofas and chairs the time, Jack Calhoun, Banana Republic’s president, said covered in glazed linen the color of sand. That same fabric Kneen’s experience with high-end women’s and men’s wear is used for heavy drapes that partially cover the large win- would allow him to take the retailer to another level, in- dows, giving the store a sense of intimacy. Gray sisal rugs cluding the Monogram collection. trimmed with black leather anchor the seating areas and black lacquer Niedermaier mirror screens bring the scale of the high-ceilinged store down to human size. BR Monogram sales associates are called “stylists” to refl ect their specialized training. “We’re hoping people will set up ap- pointments and utilize our stylists,” the spokeswoman said, not- ing the store has seven dressing rooms. Other services exclusive to BR Monogram are a full-time concierge and on-site tailor, who will hem pants, skirts and dresses, shorten sleeves and let skirts in or out at the seams, at no cost. The cash wrap is hid- den behind more heavy curtains so that consumers don’t have to stand in line waiting for their transactions. “Our stylists will take the item and give you some water. While you’re waiting you can read a magazine or look at a book,” the spokeswoman said. Choices included Jasper John’s “Gray” and “Richard Avedon: Photographs 1946-2004.” It’s hard to avoid comparisons between Banana Republic, J. Crew and Ann Taylor. Banana Republic is a division of Gap Inc., which was once led by Millard “Mickey” Drexler. Now, as chairman and chief executive offi cer of J. Crew, Drexler has put his energies into turning the formerly bland preppy business into fashion with an ec- centric fl ourish. J. Crew Collection features items such as a tulle cascade wedding for $2,200; a Galassia jacket in a couture- quality fabric, $425, and snakeskin stacked-heel , $358. Several Ann Taylor prints this season, including an interlock- ing box motif and a circle pattern, look like Monogram’s chain-link print, which is one of the collection’s signature patterns. Ann Taylor Collection’s double-weave jacket is $365; matching pants, $195; silk print top, $195, and sleeveless dress, $195. The Monogram chain-link fabric appears as a silk dress, $150; silk skirt, $78, and chiffon scarf, $49. 6ISUAL$ISPLAYS BR Monogram also features a black with pick stitch- ing, $250; matching pants, $155; a sleeveless black silk dress with de- 3TOCK#USTOM&IXTURES sign, $175; silk blouses with puff sleeves, $68, and cashmere ribbed cardigans, $195. A white trench with silver buttons is the most expensive item in the BR Monogram women’s collection at $295. “The women’s hand- bags aren’t Monogram,” the spokeswoman said. “We’re supplement- ing them from our core assortment. We’re taking a lot of care and at- tention to elevate accessories across the board.” The spokeswoman didn’t know whether Monogram accessories would be developed for women, but the men’s line illustrates the potential of the brand. Men’s prices reach $750 for a brown leather bomber jacket and the line includes accessories such as ties, messenger bags and a duffl e bag for $425. The Banana Republic Web site has a section for BR Monogram, but the spokeswoman said the buys for the store and e-commerce site are different. Banana Republic is the least troubled division of Gap Inc., which generally has struggled with declining traffi c and negative comps. Banana Republic posted a fourth-quarter comp-store sales gain of 2 percent and total sales of $764 million versus $766 million in the year-ago period. Gap North America was down 5 percent on a comp 3HOWROOM7ESTTH3T3UITE .9#o&OR!PPT basis, with sales of $1.3 billion versus $1.5 billion, while Old Navy MONDOMANNEQUINSCOM North America fell 5 percent on a comp-store basis, with total sales of $1.8 billion compared with $1.9 billion. WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 7, 2008 15 WWD.COM Financial Coldwater Creek’s Hedge Fund Appeal

By Jeanine Poggi 15.1 million shares, or 16.5 percent of analysts during its fourth- shares outstanding. Montagna said Pence quarter conference call that all Street believes hedge funds are was comfortable enough with the expect- the retailer is increasing the Wlooking to make some retail plays, ed fi nances to make the purchases. number of new fashion items and the shares of specialty chains such Analysts said when the economy starts within its assortment to be as Coldwater Creek Inc. could stand to to turn there will be a pent-up demand in in excess of 20 percent above benefit, according to some analysts. the misses’ sector. If Coldwater Creek is what they were in 2007, and “The company once had a $4 billion able to inspire shoppers to update their that it has also reached out market capitalization and was trading in closets, the company could win big. to new contemporary re- the mid-20s. People realize there is po- “Wall Street wants this company to sources to develop fashion tential for earnings to recover and the turn around,” Beder said. products for the chain. ability for store growth if the merchan- dise is right,” said Mark Montagna, retail analyst at C.L. King & Associates. Coldwater Creek has a strong fi nancial Hedge funds are looking to play retail. position and is taking initiatives to drive “ earnings. The retailer is poised to cut in- It is the fi rst sector generally to jump out ventories 15 percent a square foot by the end of the year, and is planning for a 20 when the economy turns around. percent stockkeeping unit count reduc- — Eric Beder, Brean Murray,” Carret & Co. tion by the second half of 2008. It is also working to reduce promotional levels. The discontinuation of the Spirit line, “Investors should accumulate Crystal also said, “For which was tested in 33 stores, could elim- Coldwater Creek shares while the price our accessories business, inate a distraction for the buying team. is low, since any hint of improvement we have upgraded the Montagna believes the company is ca- for second-half merchandise perfor- fashion and quality of our pable of returning to 5 percent operating mance will likely drive the stock higher offering, while revamping margins despite a tough economy. at a rapid clip as inventories pile into the our entire pricing strategy “It makes sense to bet on that, consid- stock,” Montagna said. in the jewelry business. ering where the price is now,” he said. Other specialty retail plays that hedge Additionally, we are fo- Coldwater Creek has had a tough funds might also consider are Delia’s and cused specifically on im- stretch since the fourth quarter of 2006. New York & Company Inc., according to proving jewelry and hand- Shares of the company were trading in Montagna. bags, which represent the Looks from Coldwater Creek’s summer 2008 catalogue. the $5.48 range as of April 4, better than On its fourth-quarter earnings con- majority of the volume and the 52-week low of $3.40, but more than ference call to Wall Street last month, margin of this category.” 2007. It expects to open 13 stores in the 78 percent off their high of $25.69. Robert Bernard, Delia’s chief executive New York & Co. scaled back its new fi rst quarter and close two, ending the In fi scal 2008, the company reported a offi cer, said, “We came to the fi rst quarter store openings plan to 25 to 30 new stores quarter with 589 stores. loss of $2.5 million, or 3 cents a diluted with lower markdown exposure, a higher and 10 to 15 remodels in 2008, down from — With contributions from share, from a profi t of $55.4 million, or 59 proportion of forward merchandise, and the 54 new stores and 25 remodels in Vicki M. Young cents, in the year-ago period. For the pe- have seen good customer riod ended Feb. 2, sales grew 9.2 percent reaction to our spring to $1.15 billion from $1.05 billion. fl oor set.” “Hedge funds are looking to play re- He boasted, “In Delia’s, tail. It is the fi rst sector generally to jump we’re coming off one of out when the economy turns around. So our best quarters ever. hedge funds will look for familiar names And we see that trend that can shape up quickly. Coldwater continuing thus far in the Creek is one of those names that will [fi rst quarter]. So far, with lead the charge and have a few quar- two books released, our ters of numbers blown out of the water,” direct business is up on said Eric Beder, retail analyst at Brean a year-over-year basis in Murray, Carret & Co. the quarter.” Chairman Dennis Pence bought 2.4 Over at New York & million shares from Jan. 24 to Feb. 1, Co., chairman and ceo bringing his holdings in the company to Richard Crystal told More Retail Executives See Drop in Pay for ’07 everal retail executives saw three directors, including Bern. Stheir total compensation It is also asking shareholders packages cut in 2007, accord- to reject the three individu- ing to regulatory filings with als nominated by a dissident the Securities and Exchange shareholder group led by the Commission. Crescendo Partners and Myca At Charming Shoppes Inc., Partners hedge funds. chairman and chief executive At AnnTaylor Stores Corp., offi cer Dorrit Bern saw her total Kay Krill, president and ceo, compensation fall 36.3 percent took a 41 percent pay cut in to $5.3 million last year from 2007. She received total com- $8.3 million in 2006. That in- pensation of $6.9 million, cluded a salary of $1.3 million, compared with $11.7 million stock awards valued at $2.4 mil- in 2006. This included a base lion and other items, including salary of $1.1 million, “other use of a rent-free compensation” of $100,493 and apartment valued at $85,000 and stock and option awards total- use of a company car and driver ing $5.6 million. She was not worth $27,000. awarded a bonus. Bern entered into a new Adrienne Lazarus, presi- employment contract with the dent of Ann Taylor Stores, company on Feb. 1, boosting her pulled in total compensation of base salary to $1.6 million a year $1.6 million in 2007, compared through January 2011. with $1.9 million in 2006. Her Meanwhile, Charming on base salary was $662,500, stock Wednesday began sending out and options were $848,762 and proxy materials to its sharehold- “other compensation” was ers for the company’s annual $5,190. She also did not receive meeting on May 8. The company a bonus. is asking shareholders to reelect — Evan Clark and J.P. 16 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 7, 2008 WWD.COM Financial

not so unique or exclusively used by defendant in the apparel industry.” Event on How to Gain, Michael Garcia, the Manhattan U.S. attorney, said last month that Lim Shang was sentenced to 151 months in prison. Shang, who is also known as Maintain Market Share Ah Ho, Lo Ban and Lin He, pled guilty last June to racketeering crimes. Court records said that Lim, manuel Weintraub utive offi cer, the Neiman Marcus Joe’s Jeans Subsidiary Inc. filed a complaint from 2002 through 2004, led a criminal organiza- EAssociates Inc. is hosting a Group; Joe Gromek, president against Maggy London International in a tion whose members and associates engaged in conference on “Keeping/Gaining and ceo, Warnaco Group Inc.; Manhattan federal court last week, asking for a various crimes, including traffi cking in counterfeit Market Share in Difficult Adam J. Rifkin, senior vice presi- declaratory judgment that it is not infringing on goods. Lim was indicted in a larger prosecution of Times” on April 29, from 8 a.m. dent for retail and apparel/global, Maggy London’s trademark rights by describing 54 members and associates of his organization, the to noon at the Princeton Club in Lehman Brothers; Richard Baker, its high-waisted jeans as the “Muse” fit. U.S. Attorney said. New York. president and ceo, NRDC Equity Maggy London said in a letter to Joe’s Jeans Timothy Khan, who posed as a board member According to Emanuel Partners; Homi Patel, president in December that it owns the trademark rights of Gucci Group NV, pleaded guilty last month in Weintraub, the view among in- and ceo, Hartmarx, and Hamilton to “Muse,” which it has been using since 1999. Manhattan federal court to securities and wire dustry executives is that 2008 McDermott, vice president, Maggy London also said that the denim brand’s fraud in connection with duping an investor who and 2009 will be just as diffi cult Emanuel Weintraub Associates. use of the name was “likely to cause confusion in bought $7 million worth of fake Gucci stock op- for retailers as vendors. The pan- Weintraub said that the con- the marketplace.” tions. A Gucci representative confi rmed that elists at the conference will pro- ference is relevant to any execu- However, Joe’s Jeans said in its complaint: Khan had no association with the company. Khan vide insight on what is required tive analyzing a fi rm’s strategies “The marks are used by plaintiff and defendant faces a maximum of 20 years in prison for each of to keep or gain market share. and business model against the in very different manners and the term ‘Muse’ is the offenses and a fi ne of as much as $5 million. The participants are: Burt backdrop of changing market Tansky, president and chief exec- conditions. Weekly Stocks Fast Stats 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT HIGH LOW RETAILERS P/E (000’S) LAST CHANGE HIGH LOW RETAILERS P/E (000’S) LAST CHANGE City with its second coldest 85.77 66.05 Abercrombie & Fitch (ANF) 14.8 12308954 76.66 4.16 34.73 12.10 Jones Apparel (JNY) 4.6 5329002 13.93 0.54 29.00 14.04 Acadia (AKR) 37.2 1134500 25.94 1.87 46.16 18.81 Jos. A. Bank (JOSB) 8.1 5809564 22.11 0.18 March since 2001 and fi fth 31.88 18.29 Aéropostale (ARO) 15.8 9518560 26.90 0.60 28.32 13.20 Kenneth Cole (KCP) 49.5 857106 17.33 -0.22 coldest in 30 years: Chicago 28.42 20.92 Alberto Culver (ACV) 23.6 2520440 27.96 1.16 72.79 62.16 Kimberly Clark (KMB) 16.0 9821813 65.28 1.20 3.19 1.14 Alpha Pro Tech (APT) 13.3 341564 1.19 0.01 50.36 29.00 Kimco Realty (KIM) 25.4 11682267 40.80 2.04 31.33 16.47 American Eagle (AEO) 10.2 15370429 18.50 1.41 79.55 37.31 Kohl’s (KSS) 13.2 26696447 44.82 2.49 City with its second coldest 39.72 18.70 Ann Taylor (ANN) 16.1 10304137 24.82 1.77 32.29 13.89 K-Swiss (KSWS) 15.1 1170153 16.01 0.28 March since 2002 and 8.61 2.47 Ashworth (ASHW) 0.0 125058 3.05 0.24 22.99 14.05 LaCrosse Footwear () 13.2 6806 15.71 -0.65 42.51 31.95 Avon (AVP) 33.8 13376355 40.95 1.89 15.09 9.51 Lakeland Inds (LAKE) 18.2 61504 11.99 0.05 fi fth coldest since 1984: 10.18 1.75 Bakers (BKRS) 0.0 62503 2.39 0.45 29.58 14.41 Limited Brands (LTD) 9.8 23374829 18.18 1.38 Minneapolis 18.53 9.01 Bebe (BEBE) 14.7 4071528 11.07 0.35 22.00 7.33 Liquidity Services (LQDT) 22.5 525483 8.70 0.77 37.85 23.65 Benetton (BNGPY) 0.0 0 28.90 0.20 45.25 15.96 Liz Claiborne (LIZ) 0.0 7169959 19.09 1.32 18.00 5.66 Big Dog (BDOG) 0.0 16451 6.50 0.24 13.15 2.15 LJ Intl (JADE) 9.1 1156536 2.94 -0.08 City with its coldest March 8.46 3.97 Birks & Mayors (BMJ) 10.0 3100 4.30 0.00 60.70 21.25 Lululemon (LULU) 72.1 7804031 33.74 4.27 since 2002, a huge change 39.15 26.36 BJs (BJ) 19.1 9271726 35.60 0.76 39.39 22.54 Luxottica (LUX) 17.1 1519105 26.37 1.59 from 2007’s warmest March 2.17 0.50 Blue (BLUE) 0.0 106302 0.70 -0.02 98.10 57.50 Macerich (MAC) 74.5 5185669 72.85 4.28 1.20 0.38 Bluefly (BFLY) 0.0 391658 0.44 -0.04 46.52 20.94 Macy’s Inc. (M) 12.4 31392769 23.92 1.95 in 50 years: St. Louis 55.87 4.01 Bon-Ton (BONT) 8.1 1463177 5.64 0.25 23.62 11.03 (MFB) 11.6 1152398 16.71 0.71 33.00 11.89 Brown (BWS) 12.0 3920193 16.36 1.49 56.64 16.76 Men’s Wearhouse (MW) 8.9 5673599 24.03 1.31 48.49 30.05 Buckle (BKE) 18.7 2906866 44.64 -0.08 24.44 9.12 Marcus (MCS) 28.3 630100 18.46 -0.42 City with its wettest March 19.04 8.00 Caché (CACH) 27.6 664485 11.05 0.06 39.86 14.48 Mothers Work (MWRK) 0.0 122620 17.82 0.99 since 1977 and second 27.40 7.56 Capitalsource (CSE) 12.1 19730419 11.04 1.61 34.99 17.16 Movado (MOV) 8.9 1435165 19.26 0.45 wettest in nearly 50 years: 29.00 13.48 Carter (CRI) 0.0 2374565 16.80 1.31 4.25 1.27 Movie Star (FOH) 0.0 12900 2.50 0.00 13.44 3.35 Casual Male (CMRG) 437.0 1247329 4.39 0.16 26.15 19.75 National Retail Prop. (NNN) 10.4 5135890 23.06 0.71 Dallas 25.64 12.48 Cato (CTR) 15.0 728926 15.59 0.77 15.82 3.65 New York & Co. (NWY) 0.0 2350487 6.06 0.58 47.90 21.12 CBL (CBL) 28.7 4692415 25.84 2.24 70.60 51.50 Nike (NKE) 19.0 20401860 68.51 2.65 City with its wettest March 11.95 8.43 CCA (CAW) 11.4 25025 8.93 -0.27 5.45 1.29 Nitches (NICH) 0.0 8682 1.39 -0.15 6.95 1.12 Charles & Colvard (CTHR) 0.0 272660 1.30 0.05 56.96 28.00 Nordstrom (JWN) 11.9 24299319 33.96 1.34 since 1993 and third wettest 30.91 12.27 Charlotte Russe (CHIC) 11.8 5571937 17.13 -0.08 6.77 3.60 Orange 21 (ORNG) 0.0 4480 3.99 -0.44 since 1961: Cincinnati 13.06 4.01 Charming Shoppes (CHRS) 0.0 8875133 4.99 0.33 10.35 5.00 Orchids Paper (TIS) 19.7 4100 7.90 0.54 82.17 55.68 Chattem (CHTT) 20.8 4362588 66.07 -1.49 48.85 19.77 Oxford (OXM) 12.3 1561290 25.89 3.53 48.76 27.89 Cherokee (CHKE) 8.6 284356 33.24 -1.29 23.11 8.87 Pacific Sunwear (PSUN) 0.0 6285395 13.09 0.96 City with its driest March 27.94 6.70 Chico’s (CHS) 14.4 19457306 6.98 -0.01 5.78 2.63 Parlux Fragrances (PARL) 0.0 315431 3.07 -0.03 since 1972 and third 57.89 14.92 Children’s Place (PLCE) 0.0 3913595 25.46 0.93 37.20 11.67 Payless Shoes (PSS) 19.3 7186636 12.74 0.89 driest in nearly 50 years: 20.62 7.65 Christopher & Banks (CBK) 14.0 1321400 10.55 0.65 35.22 12.83 Perry Ellis (PERY) 12.3 976407 22.05 -0.34 41.04 27.41 Cintas (CTAS) 14.0 6679418 29.98 2.13 62.19 30.50 Phillips-Van Heusen (PVH) 12.2 3675202 38.89 1.75 San Francisco 45.15 10.76 Citi Trends (CTRN) 19.0 2349351 19.61 1.57 4.45 1.10 Phoenix Footwear (PXG) 0.0 8200 1.66 -0.21 54.00 23.22 Coach (COH) 16.8 31318730 32.92 3.72 102.58 50.55 Polo Ralph Lauren (RL) 16.5 7297884 60.55 2.93 25.69 3.40 Coldwater Creek (CWTR) 0.0 8876127 5.47 0.60 33.67 16.18 PriceSmart (PSMT) 53.2 665546 28.00 0.86 SOURCE: PLANALYTICS INC. 81.98 63.75 Colgate Palmolive (CL) 24.3 13091633 78.89 0.77 15.51 5.69 (ZQK) 0.0 7128560 10.41 0.64 70.93 34.65 Columbia Sprtswr (COLM) 11.6 1680282 46.02 3.97 13.14 6.52 R.G. Barry (DFZ) 14.0 131377 7.93 0.28 32.19 11.50 Conns (CONN) 10.4 840966 16.81 1.55 38.75 19.04 Ramco-Gershenson (RPT) 11.7 633600 22.07 0.68 72.68 53.00 Costco (COST) 25.2 20308284 66.45 2.08 85.30 52.61 Regency Centers (REG) 27.2 4274233 71.87 7.80 WWD Index 75.21 15.42 Crocs (CROX) 8.6 43869533 18.38 1.20 23.30 3.91 Retail Ventures (RVI) 2.1 2010805 4.63 -0.16 12.30 6.12 Culp (CFI) 29.6 138200 7.71 0.36 1.48 0.91 Revlon (REV) 0.0 3550571 0.97 -0.05 2.58 0.11 Cygne Designs (CYDS) 0.0 42378 0.19 0.00 19.23 4.80 Rocky Brands (RCKY) 0.0 99554 5.69 -0.06 166.50 68.26 Deckers Outdoor (DECK) 22.3 2807905 114.41 9.83 35.17 21.23 Ross Stores (ROST) 16.4 8654884 31.38 2.21 10.35 1.50 Delia’s (DLIA) 0.0 388636 2.72 0.06 23.25 11.04 Saks (SKS) 41.0 8979578 12.83 0.92 Composite 19.99 5.90 Delta Apparel (DLA) 0.0 36200 7.35 1.31 195.18 84.72 Sears (SHLD) 18.9 8446081 105.61 3.41 908.78 8.19 3.66 Delta Galil (DELT) 0.0 0 5.10 0.00 34.20 10.54 Shoe Carnival (SCVL) 14.1 375569 13.66 0.32 66.70 32.20 Developers Diversified (DDR) 24.6 7293950 44.49 2.92 6.50 0.81 Shoe Pavilion (SHOE) 0.0 31652 1.15 -0.08 40.56 14.19 Dillard’s (DDS) 30.0 9992523 22.03 5.30 118.25 74.80 Simon Properties (SPG) 52.9 14026514 100.27 7.93 23.40 9.35 Dress Barn (DBRN) 11.1 2444100 13.60 0.94 36.87 16.05 (SKX) 12.9 5580198 18.94 -0.40 44.05 12.62 DSW (DSW) 10.7 4557550 12.99 -0.50 4.47 1.82 Sport-Haley (SPOR) 0.0 1500 2.25 0.00 41.56 10.55 Duckwall-Alco (DUCK) 13.2 71355 10.55 -1.30 17.17 3.29 Stein Mart (SMRT) 0.0 1507154 5.81 0.20 14.27 3.75 Eddie Bauer (EBHI) 0.0 1494299 4.30 0.23 5.00 2.54 Stephan (TSC) 0.0 1100 2.82 0.09 28.05 16.04 Elizabeth Arden (RDEN) 13.1 684732 20.52 0.88 36.13 33.86 14.61 Steve Madden (SHOO) 10.4 1698771 17.50 0.03 52.31 37.03 Estée Lauder (EL) 21.3 8566119 47.27 1.99 35.42 14.62 Family Dollar (FDO) 12.9 16354909 20.38 1.26 13.60 8.13 Superior (SGC) 24.6 16488 9.47 -0.37 13.86 1.48 Finish Line (FINL) 0.0 7216393 5.83 0.97 15.00 10.78 Syms (SYMS) 44.0 7255 12.00 0.26 25.77 20.05 Forest City (FCY) 0.0 12900 22.57 0.31 26.10 6.48 Talbots (TLB) 0.0 6453351 14.11 3.89 46.25 24.81 Fossil (FOSL) 18.3 3660968 32.56 2.46 13.29 3.82 Tandy Brands (TBAC) 0.0 14475 4.12 -1.08 15.00 7.71 Freds (FRED) 38.6 2655570 10.28 0.40 7.55 2.22 Tandy Leather Factory (TLF) 9.5 22969 2.70 0.03 Weekly % Changes 44.46 34.69 G&K (GKSR) 15.6 662817 36.22 0.64 44.43 32.32 Tanger Factory Outlet (SKT) 58.3 2441542 41.36 2.57 30.73 14.15 Gaiam (GAIA) 55.8 1419054 19.03 1.87 70.75 47.01 Target (TGT) 16.0 43255053 52.67 2.98 (ending April 4) 22.02 15.20 Gap (GPS) 18.9 47262693 19.05 -0.47 2.10 0.40 Tarrant Apparel (TAGS) 8.5 135363 0.55 -0.15 65.89 30.20 General Growth (GGP) 36.5 18893783 42.25 3.56 61.52 41.30 Taubman (TCO) 64.1 3060378 55.76 4.64 Gainers Change 10.63 3.06 Tefron (TFR) 199.0 95400 3.99 0.36 54.15 18.76 Genesco (GCO) 82.3 2331556 23.90 1.69 Talbots 38.06 22.00 10.73 G-III Apparel (GIII) 13.1 1112285 13.89 1.11 57.34 32.84 Tiffany & Co. (TIF) 19.8 9116123 43.06 1.91 46.47 28.82 Gildan Activewear (GIL) 31.2 2614399 38.03 1.42 27.76 12.83 Timberland (TBL) 22.0 1729513 14.18 0.72 Dillard’s 31.68 28.20 10.31 Glimcher (GRT) 22.2 2312727 12.31 0.48 34.93 25.49 TJ Maxx (TJX) 20.5 31553093 33.16 0.49 15.37 1.85 Gottschalks (GOT) 0.0 123800 2.79 -0.08 23.74 13.89 True Religion (TRLG) 20.4 1612526 19.73 1.19 Bakers 23.20 57.20 30.00 Guess (GES) 21.0 9836886 41.31 2.38 47.00 22.75 Tween Brands (TWB) 14.1 2869827 25.03 0.51 Delta Apparel 21.69 45.55 25.99 Gymboree (GYMB) 16.2 4574959 43.32 3.48 73.40 25.32 Under Armour (UA) 34.5 5916346 35.25 -1.43 20.25 8.70 Hampshire (HAMP) 0.0 0 9.50 0.00 3.07 1.80 Unifi (UFI) 0.0 580100 2.83 -0.02 Finish Line 19.96 33.73 21.47 (HBI) 23.2 5101092 30.36 2.18 48.00 34.60 Unifirst (UNF) 14.4 994684 43.62 6.90 8.69 2.04 Hartmarx (HMX) 0.0 379300 2.70 -0.35 33.96 19.20 Urban Outfitters (URBN) 34.2 19829102 32.54 2.27 29.26 14.56 Helen of Troy (HELE) 8.8 880211 16.73 0.19 96.20 63.68 VF Corp. (VFC) 15.1 4883639 78.26 2.49 Decliners Change 12.11 3.90 Hot Topic (HOTT) 13.6 2307447 4.77 0.49 51.00 13.82 Volcom (VLCM) 15.4 1506271 20.90 0.81 2.64 0.10 House of Taylor (HOTJ) 0.0 215069 0.12 -0.04 55.20 42.09 Wal-Mart (WMT) 17.5 108225861 54.40 2.28 House of Taylor -25.00 39.06 19.00 IAC Interactive (IACI) 0.0 12303273 21.41 0.92 44.94 26.90 Warnaco (WRNC) 25.2 7663598 44.39 6.83 Tarrant Apparel -21.43 24.48 15.96 Iconix (ICON) 17.9 4614569 18.85 1.30 49.40 27.59 Weingarten (WRI) 15.4 4766601 37.15 2.83 29.18 13.55 Inter Parfums (IPAR) 20.5 673070 22.70 1.63 34.31 23.70 Weyco (WEYS) 15.7 49915 29.16 -2.16 Tandy Brands -20.77 57.17 33.69 J. Crew (JCG) 30.3 6154589 45.66 2.32 2.36 0.11 Wilsons (WLSN) 0.0 6325714 0.21 -0.04 Wilsons -16.00 84.54 33.27 J.C. Penney (JCP) 8.2 31100611 40.18 2.70 31.04 19.85 Wolverine (WWW) 17.2 2803344 30.00 1.72 12.03 2.10 Jaclyn (JLN) 0.0 15649 7.61 -0.99 29.22 12.48 Zale (ZLC) 26.9 6714747 19.08 -1.07 Jaclyn -11.51 2.45 0.60 Joe’s Jeans (JOEZ) 22.6 500038 1.09 0.00 53.99 13.26 Zumiez (ZUMZ) 18.9 2457219 16.62 1.46 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 7, 2008 17 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS Professional Services

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Admin Since 1967 W-I-N-S-T-O-N APPAREL STAFFING DESIGN * SALES * MERCH House of Brands, Inc. is looking to add to its staff the ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION following positions: SALES (212)557-5000 F: (212) 986-8437 INDEPENDENT Importer of womens retail belts. Seeking energetic sales person. ARTIST / GRAPHIC MENSW’R 255K+ SALES REPS Fax (212) 695-4513 Est’d mens / boys loungewear co seeks The leader in junior wovens talented graphic artist for mens licensed / branded lines. has the following immediate Seeking Independent Sales COMMERCIAL A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. openings: Sales Representative South East Territory Reps for Better Specialty REAL ESTATE 450 7TH AVE (AGCY) 212-268-6123 Corporate Controller Must have a minimum of 3+ year’s footwear sales Store Distribution of: experience, ability to travel extensively in designated COSTING ENGINEER $70K-85K. Cur- & Bookkeeper rent exp in SAM, MTM. Labor sewing territory, have well-established relationships with key costs. Consumptions. Raw materials. • Supervise A/P A/R Team independents and be aggressive and goal-oriented. VERA Intimate apparel co. Exp helpful not nec. • Collections & Chargebacks [email protected] 973-564-9236 • Garment Industry and Please fax or email resume and salary history to: Quickbooks Experience a 858 824.2985 Or [email protected] Customer Service To $50K Must! PRODUCTION COORD $70-80K TECHNICAL DESIGNER Contemp Co. RA’s, Data Entry. Strong exp in retail link for Assistant –$35 to $45K [email protected] Tech Designer procedures required. Midtown co. For mjr. NYC children’s wear co. Req: • Photoshop & Illustrator [email protected] 973-564-9236 Ability to measure garments, issue fit DESIGNER $70-80K. Current comments, corrections, patternmaking experience in bras and lingerie. E-mail resumes to: PRODUCTION MANAGER knowl of overseas communication The iconic ART HOUSE Strongly growing company. Designer RTW company seeks candidate Fash. grad., kid’s expr. & Illustrator pref. [email protected] 973-564-9236 [email protected] with extensive experience in production E-mail resume: [email protected] DESIGNER LINE from the management. Must have diversified (Fax) 917-591-2521 (Tel) 914-337-3660 Designer knowledge in all facets of domestic ARTISTVera Neumann is production, including fabric, trim, back and so are the Showrooms & Lofts BOY’S DESIGNER garment construction, and costing. BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Branded apparel company looking for Ideal candidate will have a minimum scarves. Jump on the Great ’New’ Office Space Avail head designer. Ability to design full of 5 yrs experience with order placement, TECHNICAL DESIGNER ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 collection including outerwear and production allocation and monitoring, Tech designer with 5 + years exp. Trend! swimwear with understanding of kid’s and a history of timely delivery of needed for branded apparel company. req’s. Knowledge of washing and wash merchandise. Knowledge of designer- Ability to translate design concept into Global intimate apparel manufacturer product from sketch and prepare tech effects a plus. Overseas travel required. seeks Planner/Retail Analyst. level quality standards and processes Please call Huoy at: Great opportunity for right candidate. for wovens & knits, as well as experience packs for overseas factory to follow us- Responsible for seasonal planning, ing Illustrator. Knowledge of pattern Please fax resume to: 212-643-0593 forecasting, analyzing, reporting, and creating and maintaining a production 212-686-8990 development calendar, are required. and fitting. Overseas travel required. systems support. Please email resume Great opportunity and growth potential and salary requirements to Must have excellent communication & negotiation skills, & proficiency in Excel. for the right candidate. Please fax [email protected] resume to: 212-643-0593 Exciting Sales Oppty! or fax 212-696-4571 Please send resumes to: Sourcing / Buying office in India seeks [email protected] salesperson for different categories: Designer/Dance Wear GRAPHIC DESIGNER apparel, home furnishings, accessories, Patterns/Samples/Production Danskin®/Triumph Apparel Corp, world including footwear manufactured by Any Style. We do Bridal/Evening Dynamic, well-established Legwear Co. is Production Mgr to $100K. Hindi/Eng renowned dance resource, has exciting seeking a talented and detail oriented or Chinese/Eng bi-ling reqd. women Textiles/Account Manager skilled craftsmen of India. Should Gowns custom made & wholesale. opportunity for a dynamic Dance Wear have established contact with specialty/ Call: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 applicant with 3-5 years graphic design & Jr sportswear. Thorough knowl- NY & LA’s top designers turn to Angel Designer to design comprehensive experience. Knowledge of pkg design edge of construction of garments & Textiles for high-end fabric printing & department stores or even importers. collections from innovative fashion to a plus. Must have proficiency and processing w/factories in China & India. creative services. We seek a motivated Excellent oppty! Email resume to Kim: PATTERNS, SAMPLES, core basics. Ideal candidate is a proactive quickness w/Illustrator. Salary plus [email protected] 973-564-9236 /organized rep to shepherd projects from [email protected] self & detail oriented team benefits. Pls fax resume to: 212-391-6440 artwork to production. Fabric exp, good PRODUCTIONS player w/at least 7 yrs of dance wear exp All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. communication skills. 1+ yrs exp., textile Designer designing Women’s, Teens & Girls, Production or Product /biz degree pref. Email: [email protected] Call Sherry 212-719-0622. strong color sense; knowledge of knitted HOSIERY DESIGNER Assistant or Coordinator or Manager LT Apparel Group, a leader in the fabrics; in depth garment fit and Experienced hosiery designer (2 years Many Jobs-Excellent Salaries children’s apparel market since 1958 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, construction expertise. Proficiency in min exp) who is proficient with illus- Call B. Murphy(212)643-8090; fax 643-8127 seeks a hosiery designer responsible Illustrator and Photoshop a must. trator, sharp sense of fashion, color, for overall appearance of the PRODUCTIONS and prints. Must have knowledge of /hosiery lines (children and adult) Competitive comp & benefits package. Retail Analyst $80-90K. Current exp in Full service shop to the trade. Please, send resumes w/salary history product specs, material, details, sourcing, VERSACE including development of styling, Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. _ and spec sheets. Pls send resume lab dips, fit comments, CTL &MTL of color and graphics while meeting the to: hr [email protected] or Fax private label for approvals for Walmart to: 212-930-9103. EOE/M/F/V along with jpegs of work to: needs of retail/consumers, and PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD [email protected] or Target. Exp in retail link required. adhering to brand strategy. Candidate High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- [email protected] 973-564-9236 must have a 4 year degree in a design sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 Designer/Merchandiser IMPORT COORD. ASST. discipline as well as 5 - 7 years of expe- Midtown Apparel Co. seeks organized, rience. Ability to use Illustrator and Sample / Pattern Service / Custom Branded imptr of designer apparel Sales Key Account Exec. $$ Open plus seeks seasoned designer w/5+ yrs exp in self-motivated individual to work in comm. Current exp in women’s and Photoshop is a must. Send resume Design and Small Couture Line operations dept. Prior exp. (1-2 yrs) along with salary requirements to PRODUCTION AVAILABLE. sportswr, dresses, & knits. Must develop large size sportswear to catalogs reqd. & design from inception to final product. w/import traffic mgmt. Duties include JC Penney, QVC, LL Bean, etc. MARKETING MANAGER [email protected] Fast and reliable. DC metro area. follow-up customs & freight releases, (703)883-9110 Must be prof. in photoshop & illustr. & [email protected] 973-564-9236 We are currently seeking a highly have knowl. of import fabrics, trims, etc. schedule container warehouse deliveries, talented and skilled Marketing Manager shipping advice and customer service. HOSIERY SALES in the luxury wholesale or retail sector. NY based company launching hot Asst. Tech Designer Competitive salary/benefits. Fax resume Shipping/Billing Mgr To $65K This is an exceptional opportunity to be w/salary requirements to: 212-840-8738 branded hosiery line. We are looking Also seeking asst tech designer w/ min 3 Contemp Apparel, Specialty Stores. part of a dynamic luxury fashion house for a hosiery sales pro (3 years exp. yrs exp in sportswear, dresses, & [email protected] that is poised for significant growth. min) with relationships in Department maternities to work w/patternmaker & Juniors Denim Design Key responsibilities include: Developing stores, athletic shoe retailers and other design. put together tech pkgs, corresp. Must have 2 years experience in Juniors key accounts. Strong earnings potential. w/overseas factories on samples, fits, etc. marketing plans & objectives to support Internet Catalog Business Bottom Design, with strong Photoshop SPEC Technician/ sales for all lines in Menswear/Women’s Send resume to: [email protected] Internationally recognized co. selling Send resume with salary history to: and Illustrator background. Send Quality Control/Prod. RTW & Access.; Establishing strategic [email protected] resumes:[email protected] or goals & action plans w/sales team and Independent Sales Reps highquality sportswear through 19 fax to: 212-971-9203 Apparel importer is looking for an ex- key department store clients; Manage perienced and professional spec tech- High fashion watch brand is looking yr. old established catalog & Internet. co-op advertising and liaise with Milan for Independent Sales Reps to cover Niche business with few competitors, DESIGNER LINGERIE/DAYWEAR nician to work with our design and marketing team. Pastry Apparel seeks creative junior production teams. The ideal candidate the West Coast and Southwest territo- delivers high ($290) average order. designer who lives and breathes fashion DESIGNER will have garment construction and Candidate must have a bachelors degree ries. Reps need to have established Contact Fred Anderson 973-763- to create monthly capsules of hip junior technical design experience along with in marketing with 3+ years of industry relationships with Specialty/Boutique Exp designer wtd. for contemp line. a strong knowledge of grading, fit- exp. Please e-mail resume including stores. Please e-mail resume or contact 9570 or [email protected] contemporary product FT/freelance. email: [email protected] KEY AREAS OF RESPONSIBILITY: tings and Q.C. testing. We are looking salary to: [email protected] Gina at [email protected] *Develop and design fashionable junior for a team player with excellent com- LINGERIE BRAND FOR SALE sportswear collection, including fabrics, MERCHANDISER puter and communication skills. Great Internationally recognized cool Senior merchandiser with min. 5 years company benefits. Must be willing to Intimate Apparel Sales artwork, trims, and worksheets. Leading Intimates Co is searching for contemporary lingerie/RTW brand for *Work w/ graphic team, product develop- exp needed for major apparel co. Over- relocate to VT. Resume w/salary reqs sale or license. We will supply initial see merchandising from design devel. to: Carol Small, Gordini USA, Inc. PO experienced Sales Exec. To manage ment team, sample room and spec our new Playboy White Label Intimates consulting + over 100 original samples. technician to develop each style to shipping. Ability to comm. w/ design Box 8440, Essex Junction, VT 05451 Reply to: [email protected] team, retail buyers, and overseas office. or [email protected] line produced and marketed under li- * Create and maintain technical packages cense from Playboy. Must have Major and sketches and maintain library Strong fabric and garment construc- tion knowledge. Outerwear exp a plus. Dept Store knowledge and contacts. QUALIFICATIONS: Three years industry experience reqd. * 3-5 years experience in junior market, Domestic and overseas travel required. Supply Chain/Logistics Mgr Great salary and growth potential. Salary, Commission and Benefits. with extensive Adobe background. Must have knowledge of international Email your info to [email protected] *Basic fabric knowledge and garment Please fax resume to: 212-643-0593 sea/air transportation procedures, Search construction. documentation, and rates, as well as a * Background in denim and woven Patternmaker/Technical thorough understanding of US Customs hundreds of bottom design policies and regulations. In depth E-mail resumes to Design Assistant experience in dealing w/logistics and [email protected] NYC sleepwear mfr seeks patternmaker compliance requirements of department positions in with tech design skills. Gerber CAD SALES EXECUTIVE store and big box retailers. Please send First time opportunity! Sanctuary preferred. 3-5 yrs exp women’s apparel; resume stating salary requirements to: fashion, retail Send resumes to: [email protected] Clothing is opening a New York com- Designer/Product Developer [email protected] pany showroom. Be part of this new DC based Smathers and Branson and beauty. journey. Min 3 years exp in the seeks designer and product developer. Prod’n. Coordinator - Asst. TAILOR SHOP/Q.C. MGR to $80K. Contemporary Market. Be adventurous, ADMIN ASSISTANTS After creating a successful men’s line work for a company on the move! of accessories, we are looking to expand White Plains co. seeks ambitious applicant Strong exp . in men’s tailored suits and SALES, RECEPTION to assist with order placement and follow- jackets. Tailor reqd. Both hand sewing Submit your resume w/ salary req’s to: our offerings and introduce a lady’s [email protected] Prestigious eveningwear designer line. We offer competitive salaries, and up w/overseas factories. Excellent benefits and machine sewing. Supervise 60. is hiring a Sales Assistant and a benefits. Huge growth opportunity! 2 & opportunity. Fax or E-mail resume to: [email protected] 973-564-9236 Receptionist/Admin Asst. Both posi- years experience minimum. Pls email 914-428-0610 / [email protected] SALES EXECUTIVE tions require wholesale fashion exp w resumes: [email protected] top organizational & communication PRODUCT DEVELOPER – to $80K TECH DESIGNER Hot young Junior Company looking skills. Both should be detail Junior Contemporary for a dynamic and motivated seller. 3-4 Fast paced women’s apparel importer years experience in Junior Market is oriented and technologically savvy. NYC apparel co. seeks expr. product w/great benefits seeks exp’d, responsible EDI/CUSTOMER SERVICE developer (3-5+ yrs) for their trendy required. Huge growth and earning The receptionist will assist the Italian luxury brand seeks organized, candidates. Excel experts. work well Finance Dep’t and others. Excellent Jr. contemporary sportswear collection potential. Please email resumes to detail oriented, individual with the under pressure w/sense of urgency. [email protected] benefits. College degree and strong w/ability to bring designs from design pattmaking exp., grading, strong commu- ability to multi-task. Responsibilities stage to production ready products. references required. Email resume to: incl: EDI, Monitor, Track and Release nication skill in fit corrections and [email protected] Manage products to meet time & action technical sketches. private label exp. a Wholesale Customer Orders, Shipping calendar, comm. w/overseas factories and Billing. Excel and computer skills plus. Pls fax resume to 212-302-3872 or SALES etc. Req: strong knowl. of all technical email: [email protected] are a must. Benefits package. E-mail: aspects of product for knits & wovens, In Vogue Studios is opening a new ADMIN ASSISTANT [email protected]/Fax 212 399-2172 trim development etc. Digital Fabric Printing Dept. Open Task oriented, motivated assistant E-mail resume: [email protected] account list, great oppty. 2 positions needed for President of major apparel (Fax) 917-591-2521 (Tel) 914-337-3660 TECHNICAL DESIGNER avail.for exp’d salespeople. Sal + comm co. Must have excellent computer and FASHION ASST Apparel Importer (Nassau County) and benefits. Email [email protected] communication skills. Previous apparel Luxury Hand Embroidery House Production Coord $60-70K. Strong exp seeks person w/ min 2 yrs exp in men’s industry experience necessary, sales seeks an organized & detail oriented in approvals & followup from incep- wovens, knits & . Knowledge Sales Key Acct Exec. $$ open + comm. and/or production exp. a plus. Exciting individual for assitance on all aspects of tion to completion dealing w/factories of men’s specs & garment fittings. Top Current exp in boys 0-20 urban sports- opportunity for the right candidate. embroidery development & production. worldwide. No travel. Hudson County loc. computer skills. E-mail your resume to: wear. Branded lic co. Career oppty. Please fax resume to: 212-643-0593 E-mail resume to:[email protected] [email protected] 973-564-9236 [email protected] [email protected] 973-564-9236 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 7, 2008 19 WWD.COM

ItalianItalian TradeTrade CommissionerCommissioner AnielloAniello Musella,Musella, MEMO PAD JimJim GoldGold andand AlbertoAlberto Comini.Comini.

FILMING THE COUNTERFEITERS: National Geographic takes great pride in the access it gets to clandestine places and organizations, from the White House to the Vatican, but during the past 18 months, producers came up against more than a few roadblocks while exploring the issue of illegal trade and counterfeiting for a new documentary. The fi lm, “Illicit: The Dark Trade,” reveals the illegal trade activities in industries such as apparel and accessories, drugs, weapons and human traffi cking. Since the potential criminals obviously didn’t want to be interviewed, producers convinced several private investigators to cooperate. Executive producer John Bredar said most fashion houses employ their own THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY private investigators to follow international counterfeiting. “Even the private investigators didn’t necessarily trust us, so our director [Helen Fitzwilliam] had to fl y to places like Hong Kong and convince them that we were with National Honoring Jim Gold, Italian Style Geographic,” said Bredar. “They didn’t trust her. They really checked her out; took her to bars — she has a lot of stories about it.” By using hidden cameras, im Gold, Bergdorf Goodman’s president and the subprime debacle set in. That the documentary captures warehouses and back rooms in China that contained Jand chief executive, may be a top mer- dried up much of the U.S. traffi c, though bags with designer logos and reams of fabrics. According to the fi lm, some have chant with an eye for luxury, but foreign tourism remains strong, Gold said. estimated that 10 percent of the world’s trade is in counterfeit goods. The fi lm is languages aren’t exactly his forte. “After As far as his prescription for weather- based on the book, “Illicit” by Moisés Naim, who also is the editor of Foreign Policy all the times I have been to Italy, I should ing the rough economy, “I’m a strong be- magazine. It will air April 16 on PBS. — Amy Wicks speak the language. It’s embarrassing that liever that you have to maniacally focus I don’t,” Gold told a mostly Italian assem- on the fundamentals. The fundamentals ROCK AROUND THE WORLD: The U.K.’s version of Fashion Rocks may rock the house blage of business and fashion executives are no different now than 50 years ago. in Britain, but with new owners Melville Capital and now the help of talent agency Thursday in New York’s Rainbow Room, What makes the real difference at the end William Morris, the charitable event plans to expand in scope and scale around the where he received the 2008 Business and of the day is what the customer experi- world. (The evening has no relation to the Condé Nast supplement and concert of the Culture Award from the Italy America ences in the store.” And he stressed that same name.) The organization last week tapped William Morris to facilitate corporate Chamber of Commerce. should be “unique, differentiated prod- sponsorships, secure talent and develop digital partnerships, which will expand After acknowledging his language ucts and sales associates that really care beyond the U.K. in the next few years. “It’s about creating a more robust relationship defi cit, Gold rattled off a list of top labels about their clients. Product innovation between the event, the digital platform and the talent,” said David Taghioff, WMA vice including Giorgio Armani, Loro Piana, and design innovation will rule the day.” president. “What people love about Fashion Rocks is the fusion between fashion and Piazza Sempione and Roberto Cavalli that The Italy America Chamber of rock ’n’ roll. And celebrity is a big driver online.” contribute to Bergdorf ’s success. “The Commerce, founded in 1887 in New York, Fashion Rocks pairs some of the world’s major designers with musicians for a country puts its soul into these special is an American institution promoting concert to raise money for The Prince’s Trust, a charitable organization founded brands,” he said. “I feel we should be giv- business relations between the U.S. and by the Prince of Wales to support troubled young people in the U.K. The inaugural ing you an award. Without you, Bergdorf ’s Italy. Twice a year, the organization holds event kicked off at London’s Royal Albert Hall in 2003, and was held in Monte would just be another store.” a luncheon honoring successful business Carlo in 2005. This year, the concert will return to Royal Albert Hall on Oct. 16. He proposed that Italian trade groups people or cultural fi gures. Next spring, Fashion Rocks will be held in Mumbai, India, and the organization is and Bergdorf ’s collaborate on educating According to Alberto Comini, presi- looking to host similar evenings in Moscow, Shanghai, Beijing and Dubai, where consumers about the quality and value of dent of the Italy America Chamber of the events would benefi t local charities in the respective regions. Taghioff also said luxury brands. “We should make a project Commerce, Italian fashion products ex- the organization is looking to spin off related events — for example, a festival-style out of it,” he suggested. ported to the U.S. last year totaled $6.5 urban arts event that would reach a larger audience than Fashion Rocks. WMA is Then discussing recent business billion, representing a growth of 7.3 currently pursuing digital partnerships for those. trends, he said it was a “perfect storm percent over 2006. Of that, $1.7 billion Though talent hasn’t been revealed for this fall’s concert, past participants of good news” with Bergdorf ’s business was in men’s and women’s clothing, up have included Timbaland, Beyoncé, Mariah Carey, Giorgio Armani and Dolce & Gabbana. “exploding” from teeming international 11 percent from 2006; $1.2 billion was — Stephanie D. Smith tourism to New York and strong domestic in shoes, up 8 percent, and $850 million traffi c as well — that is, up until mid-Au- was in jewelry. gust, when the economy started to tank — David Moin

WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.

V.P. OF SALES Sales Representative Importer / domestic organic tee shirt Roxy is looking for a VP of Sales in Accessories, to cover the mfr seeks rep w/major store & specialty US, Canada, and Latin America. store following; to sell line of organic Roberta Freymann, an exciting high screened T’s for women, men, Jr’s & FASHION FOOTWEAR ASSOCIATION OF NEW YORK You will handlesales planning, forecasting, managingsales repsand end retailer and wholesaler, seeks kids. Contact [email protected] TRADE SHOW SALES MANAGER- ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE maximizing business atthe retail level. You will work closely with Merchandise energetic, results driven individuals GREEN EARTH CONNECT and Design on product assortment. You musthave5yearssales management for the following positions: NYC based footweartradeshow association seeking agoal orientated, experience and background in selling to main floor department store *Wholesale Account Executive enthusiastic individualtojoin our growing tradeshow sales division. business. Must be strategic and retail math proficient. *Store Manager Responsible for sellingexhibit space, candidate will develop and build cli- Ideal wholesale account executive Email resume to: [email protected] candidate must have current ent relationships, assisting with all aspects of trade show production. Some relationships and experience with 100% travelrequired. Strongcommunication and organizational skills. Proficiency luxury boutiques and major retailers. in Excel and Word. Filemaker knowledge a plus. Minimum of 3 years SALES / RETAIL [email protected] Must be results driven and possess a Acct Exec/Cosmetic Mfr $90k+ love of fashion, proven track record of fashion sales experience with working knowledge of the footwearor Sales Mgr/Hi-end fashion $80k+ increasing sales, and excellent specialty/department store or relatedfashion industry preferred. Event Plan/Biz Devel Coord $60k+ analytical and communication skills. Email resume to [email protected] GM/VP/Sls /Hi-end home txtls $100-150k+ Ideal store manager candidate will careers possess a love of home furnishings, textiles and interior design; have STORE MANAGER proven track record of increasing SALESPEOPLE WANTED SALES REPS Luxury Italian women’s boutique sales, a positive work ethic, and strong Textile & Apparel company hiring: Contemporary handbag lines aimed @ seeks seasoned leader to develop leadership skills. Must be friendly and 1.) Fabric Sales better specialty stores seeks independ- growth in sales and clientele. Must be professional with a strong client ent sales reps in many US territories. driven, with excellent communication following. Both positions require 3-5 2.) Garment sales (for ) Must have strong following and an and networking skills. Good benefits yrs exp in similar position. Must have These positions require at least 8 years active / existing specialty store list. If and competitive salary! Only those select- a college degree. Salary commensurate of experience, Job is full time only. interested, please email details to ed for further consideration will be con- with experience. Knowledge of RPro & Not looking for independent reps. [email protected] tacted. Forward resume to: Photoshop a plus. E-mail resumes to Send resume to : [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] 3>5< A > > <

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