sign in sign up
<<
Home , Clothtech, Coolmax, Gamucha, Khandua, Kotpad

CMYK CMYK CMYK

EXECUTIVE BODY 2016-17 C o n t e n t s

Patron Members 6 Smart for Medical Protective Care MR. K.C.TAPADAR Dr. Arindam Basu DR. PRABIR BANERJEE DR. SAILEN CHAUDHURI 8 , Garment and Industry in : Prospects and Challenges President Bibekananda Basu DR. PRABIR JANA 18 Technical Textiles: The Theme to Reshape Indian Vice President Textile Industry in a Progression Mode MR. KINGSHUK PANDIT Chandan Saha MR. SIBAJI DASGUPTA 26 Design & Development of High Active General Secretary Smart Sportswear MR. SANJIB SINHA K.N,Chatterjee, Ambika Madaan, Ashish Bhardwaj, and Suman Bhattacharyya Joint Secretary MR. TATAI BISWAS 39 Readymade Garment Manufacturing - an Overview Prasanta Sarkar Treasurer MR. PRANAB MAITY 44 Opportunities & Challenges of Indian textile Industry Prosenjit Pandit Student Coordinator MR. ANIMESH LAHA 47 Vilmed Nonwovens in Medical Applications MR. BAPAN ADAK Subhamoy Banerjee

Members 51 Evaluation of Thermal Protective Performance of DR. ABHIJIT MAJUMDAR Firefighters’ DR. AMALESH MUKHOPADHYAY Dr. Sumit Mandal DR. APURBA DAS MR. ARINDAM SAHA 55 Glimpse of Personal Protective Equipment and Its MR. DILIP CHATTERJEE Testing Regulations, CE Marking MR. MRINAL KANTI DUTTA Suvodeep Mukherjee MR. PARESH DAS MR. RABI CHATTAPADHYAY 58 Impact Resistant Protective Textiles MR. SANJOY GANGULI Dr M K Talukdar MR. SHEIKH MINHAZUDDIN DR. WAZED ALI 63 SleepSafe: Develop Safe Habit of Sleeping Krishna Kumar Baheti

3 CMYK

4 CMYK

Editorial

It is utmost joy and pleasure to release the 2016 edition of TANTU on the occasion of fourth TANTU seminar on Technical Textiles organised by the north section of alumni association of textile technocrats from Calcutta University. While we are proud to consolidate our effort in in addressing the untouched and unorganized ‘manufactured textile market’, I would like to thank the speakers to support our maiden effort on coming together in a platform to discuss the ‘secret sauce’ of this value added segment.

Although it is estimated that the market size for sector and it’s products (all 12 categories together) will grow from $ 9.43 bn in 2011-12 to $23.66 bn in 2018-19, there is no breakup available about roll goods and manufactured products in India’s technical textile sector. From the category wise break up it is clear that roll goods dominate the share. By the roll goods sector I mean the specialty fabric and raw materials commonly manufactured in 2D shape, and by manufactured sector consists of cut-n-join or 3D manufacturing of products for immediate customer use. Following the example from traditional textile sector it can very well be assumed that roll goods sector of technical textiles are the organized one and the manufactured sector of technical textiles are still the unorganized ones.

While the daylong seminar will bring together who’s who in the manufactured technical textile sector, especially from Meditech and Protech, this magazine also put together their thoughts about the market, business challenges and innovative products. With Meditech and Protech is poised to reach a paltry $853 mn and $794 mn respectively by 2018-19, there is serious concern having no special focus of Government to these value added sectors. While meditech is going to get traction from increase in wellness expenditure, the Protech is likely to find mutil-stakeholder in manufacturing, services (like cold chain) and defense modernization. The scratching of the surface of manufactured sector reveals some interesting trends like Maharashtra is the popular destination for both Meditech and Protech, while Kolkata continues to share a sizable chunk in Protech. While fashion garment manufacturing proliferated through growth of natural clusters (though illogical) like Bangalore, Delhi, Tirupur, Ludhiana, Chennai, Mumbai, it is to be seen whether Government intervention (read textile parks) can shape up a logical growth in manufactured technical textiles sector?

An article on Odisha is particularly important due to the new found interest of textile and apparel manufacturing sector in that state and the recent spate of state sponsored meet to attract investors. We at TANTU have reached another important milestone in starting our website www.tantutextile.com hoping for better and dynamic engagement with industry.

Last but not the least I would like to thank our spouses and children for their support notwithstanding the agony and tolerance for all the late comings and meetings.

DR. PRABIR JANA Editor-in-Chief

5 CMYK

Smart textiles for Medical Protective Care

DR. ARINDAM BASU [email protected]

n the early to end of 1990s, but were enclosed in pockets, Iinformation technology with the wires held down was overheating. Companies using tabs. All of the in computer & mobile components needed to be technologies in particular removed from the for were well funded, sometime it to be washed. Another far over needs. The wearable company, Scottevest, has technology scene was still developed a whole product line Dr. Arindam Basu fairly new and was may that utilizes a similar system be a little over shadowed of enclosures and pockets (Fig. by the hotter, more talked 1). These were not so not meeting the required about mobile gaming or successful commercially due needs and expectations of the Internet enterprises to to its high price. However, it potential users. catch the money train. The provided a valuable insights for wearable community did the smart clothes and wearing With time a number of naturally try to make it to technology, highlighting developments have taken place the consumer market, but in smart textiles (Wearable problems of fully integrating to succeed it would need a Electronics) area but despite clothing and electronics, better application and a target that hardly any product has washability & durability and market. There is a fine line commercially been successful also the complexity of the between a smart textiles and in India. Broadly these design and manufacturing such wearable technology today. products can be classified garment. Many of the wearable into four categories as per The Philips & Levis ICDT electronics were developed the areas of usage such as Mooring Jacket was released with more focus on advanced Sports, Health care/ Medical, in 2000 to a mixed reception. highly portable computing Fashion/ Entertainment and The jacket used a unified technology. In the past, large Military/ Public Sector. connector/controller to scale uptake of smart clothes integrate a mobile phone, and wearable technologies NITRA has taken up a project, mini-disc player, ear phone & seems to have been inhibited sponsored by the Ministry of microphone. The electronic by the lack of sufficiently Textiles, Government of India, components were not fully advanced technologies. This to develop a product for old age integrated into the jacket, would often lead to products people, army personnel and

6 CMYK

Figure 1 - Representative wearable electronics i. The apparel should be Extra sensitive sensors have comfortable and washable been sourced which will ii. The price of the product transform these parameters should not be too high, into measurable ones. This otherwise it will not be data need to be transmitted affordable. to the analyzer through iii. Along with measurement conductive material. gadgets for different body The second part will parameters it should have accumulate and analyze the GPS fixed in it so that the data received from the sensors. location of the wearer (in A software is being produced case of danger) becomes fire fighters. This product will to analyze the data. Only traceable. fall in Health-care/ Medical when the data crosses the iv. The sensors should not be categories and Military/ Public threshold limit the emergency affecting the comfort of the Sector categories. Generally switch will be on. old age caused various wearer. ailments and due to present v. With modern society many times near & development of telecom Figure 2 - Proposed smart garment dear ones are not present area sensors should be with them all the time. When linked with the mobile people in old age homes go for phone of the care takers. walk or move around through- This will also avoid out the day his/her condition carrying any other gadgets can be monitored by the care by the care taker or the taker of the old age home. If relatives. by any chance they go through vi. The finish of the fabric sudden heart attack or some may include dust other serious problems the resistance & anti-microbial smart garment will send properties resulting in message to the care taker or less washing or cleaning the family members. Similarly requirement. military and border Security The representative diagram of NITRA is planning to use personnel move through the proposed smart garment open network to transmit risky areas. If by chance (Fig.2) is shown below. the analysed data to the they are hit by bullet or other mobile phone/s of the care The functions can be weapons his body temperature taker. If the threshold limit subdivided into few stages. and heart beat will give the is reached the signal will The first part is sensing the indication to the nearest camp be sent to the care taker/ vital body parameter such and nearby moving partners. relative. Otherwise it will as temperature, pressure It is medically proven that if become disturbance if the and heart beat. Though the patients in such cases are signals or charts are passed wrist are available given medical care within 30- on to them continuously. commercially to measure 45 minutes a good number of The project work is moving the increment in heart beat/ lives can be saved. in very fast speed and it is pressure while walking expected that a trial model The product is being designed or running these are not of affordable, highly effective at NITRA keeping the following sensitive enough to take smart garment will be ready points in mind. clinical/ medical decisions. within six months from now.

7 CMYK

Textile, Garment and Fashion Industry in Odisha: Prospects and Challenges

BIBEKANANDA BASU [email protected]

fter Agriculture, Textile Organised sectors but later on Aand Clothing Industry is it became a burden on Ministry the second highest employer in of Textile. India with 4% GDP, 14% of the country`s Industrial Production The state of Odisha in always and avg.13.1 % of the country`s a pioneer in Textile Sector foreign exchange earner. mainly in Handloom and also This is the one of the oldest in Handicraft. The Handloom Bibekananda Basu Industry in India and is mainly Industry of Odisha is one of divided into (i) Handloom the oldest way to earn bread sector, (ii) Power loom sector among the people. It is always (iii) Organised sectors. This remained famous in producing Organised sectors Industry is in general suffering World famous products like in Odisha because of improper Govt “Katki saree”, “Sambalpuri There was only one Textile mill policy, unskilled labours, Saree”, various sarees, in Odisha name as Odisha higher labour cost in organised Tassar Saree, Tie-dye, Bomkai Textile Mills at of sectors, lack in vision and , glossy khanduas, Mr. Biju Patnaik, from 1950 mission, old machineries, more “Gamchas”, furnishing to 2001 and was closed down. power cost, hunger for quick and Handicrafts. There was another NTC Mills return, etc. In the year 1982, the strike called by Dr. Datta But unfortunately, there are name as Odisha cotton mill Sawant crippled the Organised some shortfalls in growth of at Bhagatpur established sectors. On the other hand, the this industry in this viable on sept `1946 and worked decentralised sectors started state because of some policy for 69 years and 11months booming. In the year 1968, matters, initiatives and and now closed. Industrial the NTC was formed to save foresight ness. This paper has Development Corporation of guard the employment of the highlighted a few of them. Orissa Ltd(IDCOL) have set up

8 CMYK

three Spinning mills as under that all the six cooperative so that the Handloom Weavers spinning mills of the State in Orissa can source quality have been out of operation at reasonable prices. since long.The mills are the(1) The three units were set up Shree Weavers’ between 1981 to 1986.But Cooperative Spinning Mill at due to management failure, Nuapatna in district, corruption and so many other the (2) Kalinga Weavers’ issues closed down one after Cooperative Spinning Mill another. Out of the 3 units,2 at Gobindpur in have been taken over by Sarda district, (3) Shree Gopinath Group in Kolkatta and are Weavers’ Cooperative Spinning being rerun by them. Mill at Baliapal in Baleswar district, (4) the Utkal Weavers’ ►► Sonepur Spinning Mils, Cooperative Spinning Mill Sonepur--and closed now. ►► Spinning Mills, at Mukundaprasad in Baripada-Now being run by district, (5) the Sarda Group from 2007 Odisha Weavers’ Cooperative ►► Aska Spinning Mills, Spinning Mill at Toral in Aska--Now being run by district and(6) Shree Sarda Group Sarala Weavers’ Cooperative Similarly, Director of Textiles, Spinning Mill at Tirtol in Govt of Orissa have set up .Chhuria said Cooperative Spinning Mills the liquidation process for the as under, Shree Jagannath Weavers’ Cooperative Spinning Mill was ►► Orissa Weavers Cooperative started on August 22, 2005. Spinning Mills, Bargarh The causes of the closure ►► Utkal Weavers Co-op of the Cooperative Spinning Spinning Mills, Denkanal Mills are lack in initiative by ►► Kalinga weaver’s co-op State Govt, mismanagement, Spinning Mills improper strategic planning, ►► Gangpur Weavers Co-op Mission & vision (as told by Spinning mills the Office of the Commissioner Gangpur(Near ) Taken of Textiles). Over by a Pvt Group in Kolkata and is being run as Ashoka The power loom Sectors Multiyarn ltd and is a profitable at Odisha unit. Utkal is also taken by Out of 25 lakhs power loom Ashoka Multi Yarn. The other in India, the Odisha is having 2 (Orissa Weavers Cooperative about 1793 installed power Spinning Mills, Bargarh looms. The capacity utilisation and Kalinga weaver’s co-op is not 100%. Most of them run Spinning Mills) are closed now. just in one shift of 8-12 hours’ Handlooms and Textiles maximum. The table - 1 is and Handicrafts Minister highlighting the fact. (source: Snehangini Chhuria informed Ministry of Textile)

9 CMYK

The reasons for such poor cheaper rate, there is lack ►► 95% are cotton used show are; (as told by power in initiative. in Gamcha. The cot-viscose loom service centre) ►► No skilled labour is is also used for . available. ►► They take loan from the ►► There is no big ►► It requires fund, but money lenders at High entrepreneur to run although funds may be the show. No capital interest rate. Not much available, no one is coming investment. aware of “Pradhan Mantri forward. ►► If there is capital, there is Jandhan Yojona”. Here About Power looms: (source: no “knowhow”, no proper they can take loan with Nielsen, Ministry of Textile) support from . interest of 9.54% up to 5 ►► There is no scope of getting ►► Gamcha is the main lakhs. But they are not sized beam nor any scope product in these areas. much aware of that scheme for wet processing. ►► All the looms are ordinary although it was launched ►► Although land, electricity, over pick looms. No auto in 15th August 2014. labours are available at loom is found, The local bodies such as

Table 1. Condition of Power Looms in Odisha

Place No of In Total Avg. Working Whether Yarn consumption Fabric Production Looms Operation workers Wages Hours Registered (in lakh Kg) (Lakh Mtr) Employed

2010-11 2011-12 2010-11 2011-12

Khurda 553 85% 1166 120- 262 days, one / 305 3.15 (cot- 5.8(cot- 68.9(only 69.1(only 150/- one shift / in SSI 2.65, cot/ 5.3, cot/ cotton cot day vis-0.5) vis-0.5) Gamcha) gamcha)

Ganjam 435 90% 913(only 120- 290 Yes in SSI 4.34 5.04 18.9 17.87 3 are 150/- days,one women) shift /day

Dhenkanal 451 100% 971 120- 265 days, Except one 5.02 5.19 22.69 22.7 150/- one shift/ in SSI day

Cuttack 155 NA 338 120- 308days, 58 units 1.55(cot- 1.85(cot- 3.6(cot, 4.5(cot, 150/- one shift / in SSI and 1.05, Cot/ 1.05, cot/ cot/vis) cot/vis) day of 10 3 in Dist vis-0.5) vis-0.8) hours Industries Centre

Nayagarh 103 NA 201 100- 271days, Out of 56, 1.13 1.13 5.23 4.51 150/- one shift/ 36 in SSI day &1 in DIC

Puri 96 NA 203 120- 311days, out of 58, 72,150 12,295kg 2.89 2.89 150/- one shift 33 in SSI KG /day & 2 in DIC

Total 1793 3788

10 CMYK

11 CMYK

Gramin Panchayets, BDO and sustenance to 4 % of steady increase during the Etc. should come forward the population of the State. FYs 2010-11, 2011-12 and to help them in getting Right from producing superior 2012-13 registering Rs.1575 loan. It can be made artistic fabrics of excellence, crore (US$ 303 Million), popular through these this Industry also produces Rs.2624 crore (US$ 505 Govt bodies. Bank requires utility fabrics for the common Million) and Rs.2812 crore small introduction. They masses at cheaper cost. (US$ 521 Million) respectively. can directly approach any However, in face of teething Subsequently export witnessed Nationalised Bank(source: competition in open market, a decline during FY 2013-14 State Bank). the strengthening of the registering Rs.2233 crore (US$ ►► Yarn price is an issue. Industry and its diversification 372 Million). However, export Ministry of Textile has is the continuous need for its has marginally increased started “Yarn Bank” survival is being provided by during FY 2014-15 reaching and Providing “Corpus Govt. assistance in different Rs.2246 crore (US$ 374 Integrated Scheme for forms. To achieve this end, Million). (handloom export Power Loom Sector different schemes have been promotion council of India) Development” (ISPSD) but formulated and are working The Fashion Trend in as such the takers are under the Textile Directorate Odisha: Western-style very few (source: Ministry of the state. It is having 1.19 has gained greater acceptance of Textile). lakh number of looms in the in cities and towns among ►► No proper knowledge state. Of which 88186 nos men, although the people of Marketing.(massive of looms have been brought prefer to wear traditional support, Industrial under the cooperative fold and like , Kurtha Research are need of developmental activities are and Gamucha during festivals the hour) mostly being under taken in or other religious occasions. ►► Lack of Skilled labour. this organized sector under the Women normally prefer to ISDS has started by the directorate of Textiles. wear the (Sambalpuri Ministry of Textile, but this During the 11th five-year plan ,Bomkai Sari, Kataki Sari) is a failure Project. commencing from the financial or the ; western ►► No proper Quality year of 2007-08 to 2011-2012, attire is becoming popular Checking System. It handloom cloth of 350.45 among younger women in requires skill guidance. cities and towns. The lakh square meters valued ►► They are not aware of TUF. being used in large scale at Rs 21931.62 lakh were TUF is not applicable for among the young generation produced till the end of 2008- the Power Looms. but no manufacturer is found 09, generating employment to ►► No one is having ISO at Odisha. 103264 weavers. (Handloom certifications. Development Corporation of ►► They do their own The Garment Sectors India).There are 20 Handloom production or Job Work. at Odisha Clusters in India; and two out ►► They have implemented of them are in Odisha, Bargarh There are several garment GIS. That benefits labours. and Sonepur. manufacturers are available (the exact fig, not available) The Hand loom Sectors The Export of Handloomfrom mainly at Urban areas. Such in Odisha Odisha: Export of handloom as Parke Davis(), SN The Handloom Industry in products was Rs.1253 crore Garments (shirting), UNI Odisha is the largest cottage (US$ 241 Million) during FY source (ladies readymade), Industry providing employment 2009-10 and witnessed a Krishna Kali (ladies

12 CMYK

13 CMYK

14 CMYK

Important Handloom Centres in Odisha (Table -2) 4.2 million pieces per annum for the Odisha unit. Centers Products name Bargarh Bed cover, dress materials, cotton tie & Total manpower requirement dye saree, silk saree, coarse cotton saree & is pegged at 4,600 in all the others three phases. The company Sonepur Silk bomkai saree, tie & dye cotton saree, is keen to create 11 ancillary furnishing & silk tie & dye saree units around the proposed Nuapatna Silk khandua saree, caligraphy tassar saree plant that include three & furnishing, coarse cotton saree & others. washing units, three goods Jagatsinghpur Fine count cotton saree. packaging units and five embroidery units. Madura Kotpad Vegetable dye saree & , coarse cotton has sought allotment of land saree & others at concessional rates, capital Mayurbhanj, Gopalpur, Tassar saree & furnishing, coarse cotton subsidy of 25 per cent on Fakirpur, Mankidia saree & others total investments made on Silk saree, coarse cotton saree & others the plant and an interest Kalahandi Habaspuri saree, coarse cotton saree & subsidy of five per cent on others the overall investment.The Bolangir Tie & dye cotton saree & furnishings, silk tie company has requested full & dye saree, coarse cotton saree & others waiver on VAT (value added , , Coarse cotton saree & others tax) and central sales tax Gajapati, , (CST) for eight years from the Nawarangpur, date of commencement of Nawapada, , Dhenkanal, Kendrapa, operation. It has also sought , , full reimbursement on entry tax on plant and machinery and capital goods and raw material inputs for production of finished goods. embroidered readymade), proposed to set up a greenfield EssBee Traders (Children garment manufacturing unit “We are keenly looking at readymade) and so on. in Odisha. It has sought 6-8 establishing our base for acres of developed land in manufacturing and selling In Odisha, till now no Textile Mancheswar industrial area from the state of Odisha park has come up. The O/O in the city along with other and meet the requirement The Commissioner of Textile incentive and concessions for of northern India market says that it is State Govt putting up the facility. in future and developing who should provide Land, in a phased manner a electricity, water etc. For every MFL is the largest player in strong manufacturing and Project, MOT (Govt of India) premium branded apparel warehousing hub for MFL. provide Rs. 40 CR paid in 7 segment known for brands like We believe Odisha as a state instalments. Much initiatives Allen Solly, Van Heusen,Louis has great potential for us to are to be taken by the Philippe and Peter England. establish and develop our states who should invite the The lifestyle player has lined business due to availability entrepreneurs.Madura Fashion up an investment of Rs 75 of labour, stable socio & Lifestyle (MFL), an Aditya crore in three phases with an political environment, good Birla Groupenterprise, has overall production capacity of infrastructure and defined

15 CMYK

Table 3: The product range with manufacturing capacity in handloom sector. political and economic support for the growth of the (A) Silk tie-dye, Silk Dist. - Boudh & Sonepur industry in the state,” the Bomkai & Cotton Blocks - 6 company said in its proposal Bomkai Saree Looms - 6773 to the state government.“Since With a production potential of this will be our first project Rs. 4063.80 lakh in the state and being (B) Cotton tie-dye Dist. - Bargarh, Sonepur, Bolangir & one of the early movers in Saree and setting up greenfield apparel Furnishing Blocks - 8 garmenting unit, we are Looms - 8045 seeking active support from With a production potential of the state government towards Rs. 3816.60 lakh infrastructure and incentives (C) Tasar thana Dist. - Bargarh, , & Nuaptna to make our investment Saree and Blocks - 3 attractive and financially Furnishing Looms - 2424 viable,” it added.In the first With a production potential of phase, MFL will pump in Rs Rs. 1163.52 lakh 40 crore on the project to (D) Khandua Silk Dist. - Cuttack create a production capacity Saree Blocks - 2 of two million pieces. The Looms - 2255 plant, in the first phase, is With a production potential of poised to generate sales of Rs Rs. 1217.70 lakh 250 crore for the company. (E) Berhampur Silk Dist. - The State Govt Initiative Saree Blocks - 1 Looms - 609 The following special package With a production potential of for weavers/artisans and Rs. 292.32 lakh sericulture farmers for the state was announced by (F) Single count Dist. - Jagatsinghpur Hon’ble Chief Minister on 8th Fine Cotton Saree Blocks - 2 (60s & above) Looms - 2234 January, 2013. With a production potential of ►► 20 nos. of Handloom/ Rs. 804.24 lakh Handicrafts clusters will be (G) Medium Variety Dist. - Jajpur, Khurda, Bargarh, Bolangir, developed. Cotton (40s to 60s) Ganjam & Nayagarh ►► Premium assistance to Blocks - 10 weavers and artisans Looms - 5563 for enrolment under With a production potential of Insurance Scheme. Rs. 2003.47 lakh ►► Supply of Solar Lantern (H) Coarse Variety Dist. - Bolangir, Cuttack, Khurda, to weaver and artisan Cotton (upto 40s) , Nayagarh, Puri, Nuapara, families. Kalahandi, Kandhamal, Balasore, Bhadrak ►► Supply of utility items & Sambalpur, Sonepur like gumboot, torch light, Blocks - 36 and secateurs Looms - 17220 etc. to tassar farmers. With a production potential of ►► Provision of Work shed- Rs. 5166.00 lakh Cum-Housing to all

16 CMYK

deserving poor weavers working style, day to areas can be changed to and artisans under “Mo day life. garments, night dress, Kudia” Yojana. ►► The fashion trend is what , sportswear etc. ►► Provision of Old age the mass especially the The manufacturing cost pension to all eligible young generation are being low in Odisha, the weavers and artisans expecting! They want same can be sold to other under “Madhubabu comfort, smart look, and states by the brand name Pension Scheme”. satisfaction in his/her manufacturers or by the Creation of welfare dress. state govt. fund with an initial ►► If satisfied, it will bring ►► stitch is a popular corpus provision of positivity among them, brand in Odisha and so Rs.50.00 lakh for bring good thought, many ladies are expert sericulture farmers. increase abilities and then in doing it. They can be ►► Creation of welfare fund drive him in to fashion. utilised and employment with an initial corpus ►► The heritage value generation can be done. provision of Rs.50.00 lakh (handi works, print ►► The Boyonika, weaver’s for handicraft artisans. etc., tie dye) has some cooperatives, NIFT etc can international market value. have enough R&D in these Possibilities and ►► To start with E-Market, aspects, can take opinions Potentialities in Developing prepare web base, take from the experts and to see Odisha Textile Industries in the varieties of designs that the Organisations run more Profitable Zone. from different fashion in profit. (Expert view) designers, get it selected by ►► No blame game should ►► The fashion trend to be voting method (gradation be entertained. made much more lucrative 1-10), then that mass and profit making. accepted design can be Acknowledgements ►► The fashion is being manufacturing and can Dr. Siba Mishra, Director KIIT inspired by myself seeing be marketed by renowned University, Bhubaneshwar and others beauty. (Film stars manufacturers say President Textile Association, Odisha Unit, Mr. P.C.Basu , D.Daschoudhury or any one) pantaloons, Aditya Birla , Director and Asstistant Directors group etc. ►► The Fashion is some of the Office of the Commissioner of mental requirements, ►► From the conventional Textile, Mumbai for their full-fledged match with social life, “gamcha” the application support with feedback.

17 CMYK

Technical Textiles: The Theme to Reshape Indian Textile Industry in a Progression Mode

CHANDAN SAHA [email protected]

Introduction using special characteristics materials & innovative Development of Science technology. Indian textile &Technology has led to industry has made a humble the growth of industry, beginning in and around late employment generation and 70’s to start manufacturing Socio-Economic development technical textiles mainly in of any country across the the area of Filter fabrics and Chandan Saha globe since last few decades. Geo-textiles. India has been This has facilitated R&D a pioneer of manufacturing initiative, Product development Surgical cotton and bandages technical textile has got an and Innovation including since the ancient times by importance in daily life due infusion of new ideas etc. in using traditional knowledge to diverse uses. Popularity of manufacturing sector in the acquired during that period, technical textile has grown recent decades. Technical though it was never been up widely and there is a huge Textile is an area, emerged recognized as Technical surge in demand mostly in in the world of textiles as a Textiles at that point. However; the developed countries. new innovation in the early with the passage of time, The global technical textile years of 1900’s with the technical textiles have been market is estimated to be invention of special variety widely categorized based US$104bn in 2010 and it has man-made . The diverse on the end uses and the grown up to US$148.5bn in uses of technical textiles products (Bandage& surgical 2014 and expected to grow @ have opened up a new vista cotton) have been included 4.5% from 2015-2020. The to infuse innovative ideas; as Medical Textiles. With the technical textile market size simultaneously R&D initiatives advent of new technology is projected to reach 42.20Mn have been made to develop & developmental works tons by 2020. The market for new generation textiles by undertaken in various spheres, the global technical textile

18 CMYK

industry has witnessed an expenditure and health & who have made a big dent in upward surge since 2000. hygiene consciousness in the market. India had been It is reported that share of society. The opportunities need exporting textile & clothing Asia Pacific region is around to be tapped with an in-depth items mainly based on the 33.13% followed by North vision. This will lead to the quota allotted to us. Besides America and European growth of industry and also this, export of various items region29.13% and 24.02% enable to sustain in long term. has also been made outside respectively. The working quota countries in 90’s group report projected in 12th Status, Opportunities and onwards. India’s export basket plan that the market size of Emerging Challenges to was full of traditional items India is expected to reach Indian Textile industry of low value added product. It US$29bn (approx) by 2016- Indian textile industry has been reported on various 17 on year to year growth historically has been playing a occasions that India had been th rate of 20% during 12 plan. pivotal role in improving Indian incapable of full utilization of Experts opine that technical socio- economic structure and quota in various categories. textile market was estimated contributing significantly since Unfortunately, we had never at US$ 14bnin 2010 and it pre-independence era. The learnt any lesson from all is likely to reachUS$32bn sector had got a big success sufferings instead we had been by 2023. It is stated that in many areas which made advocating for some incentive/ subsidies to compete. It was domestic consumption of the Indian economy strong. It technical textile is only 3% never being an appropriate had been the one of the largest of Global technical textile a proposition as these short forex earning industry in the couple of years back, though term measures never benefit country till 2000 and the there is a huge opportunity to any industry for long rather, industry has been registering enlarge the area of application. it had invited a disaster to an exponential growth since At present, consumption of the industries. Indian textile mid 80’s. With the advent of technical textiles is mostly industries had made serious WTO, the market economy confined in the area of attempts to recover from the has been opened up phase transport sector, health crisis but it really didn’t yield care, industry and geo textile wise to comply with the global much encouraging results to etc. It is stated that new trade practices with the inspire. Domestic industries areas have been identified business partner/ trade block were not very keen to come out for technical textiles under countries. This has brought of traditional manufacturing the major segments which a set back to the industries practices and were not much need a lot of R&D initiatives at the beginning, as domestic serious to venture in high risk and innovation to make the manufacturers were not areas as domestic market is products affordable. However, enough capable to withstand growing rapidly in the last consumption of technical the emerging challenges one decade. Union Govt. textile shows an upward ushered in the new era. India had launched several plan trend in the recent years as has been experiencing a stiff schemes, providing various developmental works have competition from neighbouring assistance/incentives to been undertaken in the area of countries slowly with the encourage industries to step Infrastructure, Construction, abolition of quota regime. up their initiatives to venture healthcare and Protective & Besides, technology has made in manufacturing high value Safety etc. The opportunities a big hurdle for industries added products. This had are emerged in a big way to make an in-road in the facilitated the established with the rapid change of life global market, taking an manufacturers and new style, enhanced income & edge on the small countries, generation manufacturers

19 CMYK

to move to high risk areas, a humble beginning in the this, non-availability of raw leaving behind the concept early 70’s but progress was material in the domestic of manufacturing traditional very slow. As per information market was another challenge items. But the progress is very available there are around to the industry. Materials slow and there is no visible 600 odd units established were mostly imported to impact as on date. throughout the country, produce products. At present, involved in manufacturing availability of technology Growth of Technical wide range of technical and raw materials is more textile Industry – The Way textiles. Though India is the convenient to undertake such to move forward second largest textile economy activity. At present technical India has been witnessing in the world after China, but textiles industries are mostly huge innovation in various it’s contribution in global confined in medium and small fields like technology, technical textile industry is scale sector and industries are Product, Trade etc. in the comparatively is very less. established in Maharashtra, last one & half decade. The global consumption of Gujarat, MP and NCR etc. Technical textile is one such technical textile is in USA, Manufacturing activity is innovation come in the market Western Europe and Japan mainly confined in the area of with a huge expectation of which accounts for 65% Industry textiles, Geo-textiles growth and diversification of the world consumption. and medical textiles etc. in manufacturing activity. It is reported in the recent Domestic industries couldn’t Technical textiles are special study report that China has move much advance in variety of products used made a good progress by absence of appropriate forecast primarily for their technical enhancing it’s consumption on market demand though performance and functional to 15% whereas; India it could be an investment properties rather than their accounts for only 8.6% of the friendly industry and there aesthetic or decorative total consumption. India’s could be a huge opportunity characteristics. Technical technical textile market is for FDI. Unfortunately, it got textile industry is a knowledge mainly confined in the area failed to articulate any big based research oriented of Packtech, and investor except in the selected industry and has been steadily Hometech etc. Though India fields where manufacturer’s gaining ground due to its has made serious initiatives presence were already in functional characteristics and in the area of Geo textile and place. There is no doubt, its suitability in diverse uses. Industry textile and later on a few manufacturers from The main users of technical Sport tech but consumption the developed countries are textiles are the industries pattern was not much showing their inclination like Automobile, Healthcare, encouraging in the domestic to establish manufacturing Medical, Sports, Railways, market. Industry has also centers in India after Govt. has Protective/ Safety and not progressed much in the made new policy formulation Infrastructure & Construction last few decades as there was comprises of implementing etc. The global technical textile no indigenous technology various plan schemes and FDI. consumption is stood at 23Mn available to produce flawless Union Govt. has initiated an MT in 2010 at a compound long length fabrics conforming effort to undertake baseline growth rate of 3% since 2007. to the specifications of specific survey by competent institute Technical textile industry end uses. Indian industry to have appropriate inputs is still in nascent stage in has been using imported on technical textiles. This comparison to developed technology mostly from will enable the Govt. to frame countries. India has made Europe and USA. Besides a roadmap to focus on the

20 CMYK

specific sector. This will also advantage of large economies late70’s but it could not augur place the concerned institutes of scale. But the various well with the passage of time. in appropriate position to constraints like low scale The huge opportunity has been undertake R&D initiatives of production, higher fixed identified but the potential and encourage innovation to cost per unit, shortage/non has been remained untapped. achieve desired results. availability of specific quality Union Govt. has made a good materials in India have put in no. of initiatives to promote It is reported that currently a disadvantageous position. the sector. A good no. of Plan technical textile market is However, Union Govt. Ministry schemes have been launched estimated at US$14bn and it of Textile has realized the during the 11th& 12th plan to is expected to reach US$32bn compulsions and introduced encourage the manufacturers by 2023. Technical textile various schemes/ widening to make a venture in this industry will grow at the rate the scope of existing schemes segment. Various awareness of 20% during the 12th plan to extend support to grow programmes have been and projected market size the sector to cater the needs conducted by the concerned is Rs.158540crores. Indian of domestic consumers. It is ministry and institutions Meditech is expected to grow at expected that the initiatives to enhance outreach the the rate of 20% to US$1039Mn made by the Govt. will users. Around eight Center by 2016-17. Similarly, of Excellence have been Mobiltech is expected to articulate the new generation established at various corners grow at the rate of 17% to entrepreneurs to make venture of the country. US$1870Mn, Industry textile in this area thus boosting is expected to grow at the rate manufacturing activity at a Technical textile unit can avail of 18% to US$ 2034 Mn and new scale. This will surely several benefits from central both Geo textile and Packaging strengthen the Indian textile plan schemes like Technology textile will grow at the rate industry as a whole and it will Up-gradation Fund (TUF), of 22% to US$201Mn and facilitate the industry to retain Scheme for Integrated Textile US$11782mn during the same its importance in the Global Park (SITP), Coverage of major period. Non woven textile has market in the coming year. machinery for Technical got a major share in technical Initiatives made by the under textile across the globe. Surely; Union Govt. to Promote concessional customs duty there will be no exception the Sector. of 5%, Selected technical in India. Experts opine that textile products are covered Non woven technical textile Technical textile is a high under Focus Product scheme, has specific uses in Oil and technology & sunrise sector under which exports of such allied industry where minute and the sector is steadily products carry duty credit particles of undesirables have gaining ground in India. scrip equivalent to 2% of FOB to be removed in absolute Technical textile products value of exports. Besides these, terms and demand for such derive their demand separate Scheme for Promoting product in the industry is from development and usage of Agro-Textile and Geo- quite substantial. Opportunity industrialization in a country. Technical textile in NER states to grow such industries is The market for technical textile etc. Additionally several states huge in the coming days. It is can only be expected to grow in in the country offer various stated that the cost advantage tandem with industrial growth incentives and assistance is higher for India for various in different parts of the world. to investors which includes, high end technical textiles Technical textile is in nascent Electricity and Stamp duty product as compared to US stage in India though it has exemption, concessions in and Europe which have the made a good beginning in land registration and Single

21 CMYK

22 CMYK

23 CMYK

Window clearing facilities by 2016-17 from a market well as growing demand of to set up industries etc. size of Rs.70,151 crores. domestic consumers. The Eight Centers of Excellency Market size is estimated captains of the industry have have been established to at Rs. 1,31,836 crores in to make serious attempts to undertake research activities the year 2015-16. Despite frame investment plan right to develop technical textiles in of achieving a substantial from to finished product various fields. growth rate still per capita to boost the manufacturing consumption of Technical activity to reap the benefit in Summing-up textiles in India is only 1.7kg future. Indian textile industry Technical textile though is in vis a vis 10-12 kg in developed has to carry forward the idea incipient stage in India but countries. Globally technical that technical textile is the growth rate in the last decade textile contributes around ultimate option to reshape the indicates a good progress. 27% of textile industry, industry to make its presence This has been identified as Western countries contribute visible in the global market Hi-tech and sunrise industry around 50%, whereas India’s with valued contribution. in the country. Per capita contribution is only 11% References: consumption is still meager of total production. This in comparison to developed indicates the huge potential 1. Working Group Report on Textile and world average per of technical textile industry’s for 12th Plan. 2. New Cloth Market Journal a few capita consumption. There growth opportunity in the next decades. Once the technical issues of 2016 is a huge developmental 3. Reports published by Ministry of textile industry moves in a activity undertaken by the Textile Govt. of India Govt. during the 11th & growth path, market size 4. World Bank Study Report in 2016 12th plan and it is expected will automatically expand. on Textile and Apparel industry in that demand of various Export of textile will surge South Asian countries. 5. Technical Textile Overview, History, technical textiles will grow in terms of value and share in the global market. This Classification & Technology. substantially in the category 6. A study on Technical Textile- will bring an opportunity of Geo textile, Health care Scope, Classification. textile products, Automobile to Indian textile industry to 7. Textile Industry in India, snapshot and Packtech etc. consolidate its position in the updated,July2016. world market narrowing the 8. Textile Industry in India, study It is reported that Technical gap with other leaders. Indian report by IBEF.org. textile has registered a textile industry has to frame 9. Technotex.gov.in 10. Garware marine-Technical textile. compound annual rate of an appropriate roadmap to growth of 11% during the reshape its structure with an Views are included based on analysis 11th plan and estimated appropriate investment plan to of several constraints/issues came up at different forums, while interacting compound annual rate of build capacity and competence with the stakeholders in recent years growth of 20% during the to develop innovative products and also based on experience. The th 12 plan. Market size may to cater the needs of developed views are personal, no way connected reach Rs.1,58,540crores countries consumers as to any of my working place.

24 CMYK

25 CMYK

Design & Development of High Performance Active Smart Sportswear

K.N,CHATTERJEE, AMBIKA MADAAN, ASHISH BHARDWAJ AND SUMAN BHATTACHARYYA [email protected]

Introduction attributes as possible, sports leisurewear is replica of the Sportswear is not just used performance sportswear, by athletes while performing, worn at home and is sold but is becoming a major part in higher volume at much of everyday clothing during smaller price. Functional morning walks, jogging, requirements of performance yoga, stretching exercises sportswear depends on and daily fitness activities K.N Chatterjee nature of sport, climatic because of quality comfort conditions and amount of of sports clothing. As per physical activity. high active resistance, super high market demand, sportswear sports are classified as tenacity and stretch ability. are categorized in to four one which is being played ►► Critical features include groups, viz performance for short duration of time thermal retention, UV sportswear, basic sportswear, with maximum physical resistance, cooling sports leisurewear & activity like tennis, soccer, capacity, sweat absorption sports –fashion clothing. basketball, volleyball, running and fast drying, Performance sportswear is ►► Vapour permeability, ,jumping etc wear comfort highly technical-oriented water proofing to provide of active wear may affect by clothing which enhances the relaxation without fatigue performance of players [1] performance with special as cited below in figure 1. functionality. it is produced Requirement of active Aesthetic properties in lowest volume and highest sportswear price range ,whereas basic ►► Sensitivity of softness, Functional Properties sportswear is cheaper and surface texture, handle, more stylish while retaining ►► Active sportswear requires luster, colour variation, as many of the material super lightweight, low fluid transparency and comfort

26 CMYK

in sports wear are focuses designing concept Nike and Adidas dominate the important factors. for high performance active market with their aggressive ►► Protection: From wind smart sportswear. branding strategies, including water and adverse weather technology branding. However, Today, there is a keen ►► Insulation: Protection while these giants account for interest of researchers and from cold approx. 50% of turnover for industrialists in the field of ►► Vapour Permeability: sports products, the rest of smart and wearable sensors To ensure that body the industry is characterised has caused the work done vapour passes outward by many small manufacturers in this area to gain a lot through all layers of the whose proximity to the of importance in the last clothing system. customer and understanding few decades. ►► Stretch: To provide the of consumer’s functional needs freedom of movement Sensors for monitoring and wishes are the key factors necessary in sports[1-2] physiological parameters, behind their success. The term “Smart Textiles” such as the body temperature, High volume production refers to a broad field of heart rate, electrocardiogram of sports clothing and low studies and products that as well as sweat rate technology products are extend the functionality and measuring sensors have been generally undertaken in Asia, usefulness of common fabrics. in the focus of research. The India and Eastern Europe, Smart Textiles are defined as development of such sensor a new market for specific textile products such as fibers systems includes many products for dedicated uses and filaments, yarns together requirements to consider such as running, skiing and with woven, knitted or non- such as costs, size and specific sports has created woven structures, which can weight limitations. interact with the environment/ a niche market where user. Smart Textiles present Presently much research European manufacturers are a challenge in several fields has been conducted by able to compete with flexible such as the medical, sport, NASA in the field of high small series production of and artistic communities, performance protective textiles specialised products. The the military and aerospace. for protecting astronauts and concept here is to develop This review paper mainly monitoring their health. and launch comfortable,

Figure 1 - Functional requirement: Sweat absorption, fast drying, cooling, high tenacity, stretch ability.

27 CMYK

28 CMYK

high performance, protective wind resistance, moisture Polyamide sportswear facilitating tracing management, wicking and Polyamide fibres such as the exact location of the lightness. Comfort and feel 6 and nylon 6.6 have higher players along with continuous of natural fibres Style and moisture absorption rates and monitoring of players health. variety of colours. They Such a development would can have either hydrophilic better wicking ability than be highly appreciable and will (wetting) surfaces or but dry more lead to new sportswear for hydrophobic (non- wetting) slowly. It has high strength various sports. surfaces. They are generally and exceptionally strong fibre considered to be the best used for swimwear and cycling Designing steps for high choice for sportswear as they clothing or as reinforcing performance active smart are able to provide a good fibre in blends used for sportswear:- combination of moisture sports . ►► Selection of Raw management, softness, Polypropylene materials(fibrous materials) lightweight, insulation ►► Development of high and quick drying. It is Polypropylene fibres have very performance fabrics. generally agreed that fabrics low moisture absorbency but ►► Development of printed with moisture wicking excellent wicking ability. It has control circuit board properties can regulate good moisture management embedded with light weight body temperature, improve property due to its sensors muscle performance and hydrophobic nature as ►► like heart beat measuring, delay exhaust[2]. polypropylene does not wet temperature measuring Types of fibres used in out, its thermal insulation sensors. sportswear is retained during and after ►► Attachment/integration of strenuous activity which board with sportswear. Synthetic fibres keeping the wearer warm in Selection of fibrous material : Polyester has cold weather and cold in warm outstanding dimensional weather. Selection of fibres or fabrics stability and offer excellent for manufacturing active resistance to dirt, alkalies, Elastomeric fibres sportswear is one big factor decay, mold and most These fibres are frequently influencing performance, common organic solvents. used in small quantities in efficiency, ensuring Excellent heat resistance garments to increase stretch protection, and physical or thermal stability is also and support. For example comfort. For every active an attribute of polyester. knitted sportswear contains sport, synthetic fibres & It is the fibre used most 3-10 per cent of Elastomeric specialized synthetic fibres are commonly in base fabrics fibres. It will not affect the preferred because they do not for active wear because of Thermo-physiological comfort retain moisture and therefore its low moisture absorption, of garments that contain them. do not get heavy upon easy care properties and low sweating like natural fibres. cost. Polyester is essentially ►► Natural fibres Synthetic sports hydrophobic and does not Cotton have better dimensional absorb moisture. However, stability. Synthetic fibres offer most polyester used in base Cotton garments provide a the three major requirements layer clothing is chemically good combination of softness in today’s high technology treated so that they are able and comfort. However, cotton sports uniforms. Warmth, to wick moisture. is not recommended for use

29 CMYK

in base layer clothing because • Block copolymers type filament yarn composed of its tendency to absorb and can be added to the of fibre made from water retain moisture. When cotton base polymer before absorbing polymer and becomes wet, it dries out extrusion nylon. The water-absorbing slowly. This can lead to rapid • Fibres can be extruded polymer has a special network and undesired heat loss once with different cross structure that absorbs activity has stopped. However, sections. 35 times its own weight cotton fabrics are easier to • Fibres can be coated of water and offers quick clean than those based on after treatment releasing properties that the many synthetic fibres. conventional water absorbing Micro fibres polymer cannot do. On the One of the most common other hand, nylon in the core Wool has good wicking ability modifications made in order gives tensile strength and and is a good insulator even to provide improved comfort is dimensional stability. Hygra when wet. However, wool is the use of superfine fibres or also has superior antistatic slow to dry and has a high microfibres with the filaments properties even under low wet surface coefficient of having a linear density well wet conditions. The main friction. It also has higher heat below 1 decitex. The use of apparel applications include releasing and heat absorption these fibres enables very dense sportswear like athletic wear, properties accompanying fabrics to be created in which skiwear, and golf wear etc. moisture absorption and the fibre surface is significantly Dryarn desorption respectively, which increased and the space strengthens the buffering between the fibres is reduced. Dryarn is a completely effect of the clothing between This leads to the increase recyclable polypropylene the human body and the of capillary action for better micro-fibre. Fabric from surrounding environment. thermal regulation. Microfibre Dryarn is very lightweight exhibits better moisture and comfortable and used in Silk transport and ensures better different sports. In addition, it Silk has good wicking ability moisture control. Microfibres has a soft handle and a high and it breaths well because of have higher breathability and thermoregulatory capacity and its hollow structure. Silk also moisture transport properties also dries quickly. Bacteria has high thermal conductivity and because they are wind- cannot settle on smooth and therefore feels cool to the and water proof, these fabrics surface of the fibre which touch. Silk is not, however, an are widely used in rainwear avoids unpleasant odour easy fibre to care for, which is and active sportswear. associated with decomposition a disadvantage in sportswear Specialised polyester fibres of bacteria. that is worn frequently. (Modified polyester) have been Killat N developed in order to produce ►► Specialised synthetic fibres a more natural handle, Killat N from Kanebo Ltd is Synthetic fibre can be to increase absorbency, a nylon hollow filament. The modified during manufacture to provide better thermal hollow portion is about 33 per to improve its thermo resistance and to reduce static cent of the cross section of physiological and sensory charges. each filament due to which it properties. A number of gives good water absorbency Hygra different techniques are and warmth retentive property. available for producing such Unitika Limited has launched The manufacturing technology fibres, including the following: Hygra which is a sheath core of Killat N is very interesting.

30 CMYK

31 CMYK

The yarn is spun as bi- polyethylene oxide diamine nature is suitable to make component filament yarn with which provides significantly summer clothing. soluble polyester copolymer improved water absorbency, Soybean as the core portion and nylon up to the levels associated as the skin portion. Then with cellulosic fibres. soybean protein contained in by giving alkali weight loss Polyamide microfibres such the fibre remakes a superior, treatment the soluble polyester as Tactel Micro, Microfine, soft hand endowed with both copolymer of the bi-component Supplex and Microfibre, are moisture absorbency and filament will dissolve and large used in fabric to produce permeability, which makes hollow portion (exceeding 30 superior wind protection, a best application in knits and per cent of the cross section) soft feel and good moisture innerwear. Finishes with an will be created. vapour transmission. antibacterial agent, health- care functionalities are also Triactor ►► Regenerated fibres for Sportswear given. It has great potential Toyoba Co Ltd has developed in its use in high-grade knits Triactor, which is a Tencel and innerwear. perspiration absorbing/quick Tencel is the generic name of Wearable technology drying polyester filament. Lyocell. Lyocell is a natural, Polyester is hydrophobic and manmade fibre produced in an A conceptual representation of does not absorb moisture but environmentfriendly process a system for remote monitoring by changing the filaments to from wood pulp that has is shown in Figure 2. Wearable Y shaped cross section causes become popular in clothing. sensors are used to gather quick perspiration absorbency The moisture management physiological and movement by capillary action. The of tencel is unique when data thus enabling patient’s hydrophobic nature and large compared to synthetic status monitoring. Sensors filament surface of polyester fibres and allows for peak are deployed according to the filaments realise quick drying performances in sports. The clinical application of interest. and refreshing properties at excellent moisture absorption Sensors to monitor vital signs the same time. is perfect for the skin and thus (e.g. heart rate and respiratory rate) would be deployed, for guarantees well being at a very high level. instance, when monitoring Coolmax is a four-channel patients with congestive modified polyester fibre Bamboo heart failure or patients with a crosssection that Bamboo fabrics are made with chronic. resembles a double scallop. from pure bamboo fibre Wearable systems for person’ It offers improved wicking yarns which have excellent remote monitoring consist of capability and moisture wet permeability, moisture three main building blocks: vapour permeability. It dries vapour transmission property, significantly more quickly soft hand, better drape, easy ►► The sensing and data than many other fabrics used ,splendid colours. collection hardware to in sportswear. It is newly founded, great collect physiological and prospective green fabric. movement data, Hydrofilia (Modified Bamboo fibre has a unique ►► The communication polyamides) function of anti bacteria, hardware and software Hydrofiliais a polyamide which is suitable to make to relay data to a remote block copolymer containing underwear, tight t- and center, and 85 per cent nylon 6 and 15% socks. Its anti – ultraviolet ►► The data analysis

32 CMYK

Figure 2 - A system architecture for remote monitoring Recently developed wearable systems integrate individual sensors into the sensor network by relying on modern wireless communication technology.

An alternative to inbuilt smart phone sensors is wearable sensors that have been used techniques to extract an example of such technology for continuous monitoring, clinically-relevant and allows one to gather storing, and sending medical information from physiological data as well as data to healthcare givers physiological and transmit the data wirelessly over distance. Existing movement data. to a data logger using a low- studies with wearable Recent advances in sensor power radio. sensors offer monitoring in technology, microelectronics, Health monitoring applications applications like physiological, telecommunication, and data of wearable systems most often biochemical, and motion analysis techniques have employ multiple sensors that sensing These sensors have enabled the development are typically integrated into a been used in monitoring and deployment of wearable sensor network either limited health indicators and body systems for person’ to body worn sensors or positions of the patients, as remote monitoring. The integrating body-worn sensors well as in keeping track of miniaturization of sensors and ambient sensors. In the sports and other activities. and electronic circuits based early days of body-worn sensor These wearable sensors are on the use of microelectronics networks (often referred to as becoming promising due to has played a key role in the “body sensor networks”), the the fact that these sensors development of wearable integration of wearable sensors are low cost, easily available, systems. One of the major was achieved by running user friendly, accurate, and hurdles to the adoption of “wires” in pockets created in reliable. Wearable technology sensing technology, especially garments for this purpose to is also useful in solving the for wearable applications, has connect body-worn sensors. issues of monitoring in motion been the size of the sensors An example of this technology artifacts by using multiple and front-end electronics that, is the MI Thril system. Such sensors integrated on a single in the past, made the hardware systems by design were chip. Integration of different to gather physiological and not suitable for long-term sensors on same platform movement data too obtrusive health monitoring. (tight fitting in garment) in to be suitable for long-term order to monitor respiratory monitoring applications. diseases is another kind of Figure 3 - illustration of Flexible wireless Recent developments in the ECG sensor with a fully functional application. [3-6] field of microelectronics have microcontroller[6] Advantages of active smart allowed researchers to develop sportswear miniature circuits entailing sensing capability, front-end ►► New developed sportswear amplification, microcontroller will be embedded with functions, and radio sensors, which can be transmission. The flexible traced by GPS receiver. circuit shown in Figure 3 is The exact location of

33 CMYK

34 CMYK

35 CMYK

36 CMYK

sports person can be continuously enhancing References traced case of paragliding, day by day to fulfill the 1. M Manshahia & A Das ,High active skiing, mountain, car requirements for athletics sportswear-A critical review,Indian racing etc. and leisure activities for Joural of Fibre & Textile Research, ►► Sportswear will be their better performance in vol. 39,Dec 2014,pp 441-449. fitted with lightweight the sports. The performance 2. Chakraborty., Diksha Deora, Functional and Interactive sensors, to measure body requirements of many sports Sportswear, Asian Textile Journal, temperature, sweating rate goods often demand widely on vol.22, No9,2013,69. continuously. different properties. Recording 3. Priyanka Kakria,1 N. K. Tripathi,1 ►► Durable enough and and comparing multiple data and Peerapong Kitipawang2, A machine-washable. sets of sports performance Real-Time Health Monitoring System for Remote Cardiac The trainer or coach can allows evaluation of training Patients Using Smartphone manage the amount of processes and planning of and Wearable Sensors[online] training, checking the player’s further sessions. However, on ,Available: (http://dx.doi. health condition, before a the way to fully implement org/10.1155/2015/373474) health problem occurs. sensor systems into training 4. Wearable Electronics and Smart Textiles: A Critical Review routines, some more research Conclusion Matteo Stoppa and Alessandro has to be done in order to Chiolerio[online], Available : (www. The sportswear manufacturing yield results, which are easy mdpi.com/journal/sensors) textile industries not only to interpret by the athlete. The 5. A review of wearable sensors keep their eyes on market presented sensor system can and systems with application in rehabilitation[online], Available : help to improve research by diversification for fibrous (http://www.jneuroengrehab.com/ materials but also on textile gaining relevant data without content/9/1/2) science and technology. complex and expensive 6. Syed Talha Ali Hadmani, Anura The use of innovative textile laboratory trials. In order to Fernando*, Parasd Potluri ,The science and technology (e.g allow real time monitoring, application of a piezo- resistive cardiorespiratory sensor system in wearable technology) in the the integration of a wireless an automobile safety [online], manufacturing of sports data transmission module is Available :(www.mdpi.com/ and leisurewear fabrics is a logical. journal/sensor)

37 CMYK

38 CMYK

Readymade Garment Manufacturing - an Overview

PRASANTA SARKAR [email protected]

hen wego for shopping Garment sampling and Wclothes in the local product development market or in malls,we Sampling is making the proto find garment shops are type of the final garment. everywhere. All shops are A designer first makes the filled with thousands of garment design on paper. garment pieces with variety And at the development stage of product categories and design concept is converted product designs. All these into garment using fabric and readymade garments are trims. Brands spend lot of Prasanta Sarkar made in garment factories in time and resources on product different parts of our country. development. They also Even many readymade Garment pattern making work on developing fabrics, garments are imported from if they wish to use a new other countries like China When we buy readymade kind fabric for their designs. and . Most of garments we choose the Different types of samples are thesebranded garments garment that fits better to made for different purposes. are made in industrial our body. A garment is made Samples made by a factory production environment. by joining various garment may include proto sample, components together. Like Let me share the steps and size set sample, salesman a shirt has parts likecollar, explain it how our garments sample and preproduction cuff, sleeve, front panels, are made in factories. sample etc.Garment fitting, back panel, back yoke and Industrial production system measurements, construction front plackets. Do you know is followed in manufacturing and raw materials are checked that afull sleeve shirt is readymade garments. I will in multiple levels to ensure made of about 20+different show you all the processes brands will get the desired components?All garment involvedin industrial product in bulk production. components are cut from production of readymade For domestic brands, they fabric sheet. To get correct garments from the point design their own product and garment fitting, all garment when fabrics are sourced at get it manufactured. Prior to partsarecut following the factory to retail-ready bulk production, a trial run the specific dimension garments are shipped to is done with 50-100 pieces of (measurements). For thiswe the retailers. a design. need garment patterns.

39 CMYK

Factories makegarment CAD generated maker sheet is types of sewing machines patterns manually as well laid on the top layer. A trained and one person makes the as by CAD software. Using cutter cuts fabric following whole garment. In industrial CAD system, pattern making, pattern outlines by means of production things are different. pattern grading is done cutting equipment. It may be a Cut components aretaken into efficiently. A trained pattern straight knife cutting machine, sewing section. Garments are master (technical person) is or a round knife cutting stitched in assembly lines. employed for pattern making. machine or automatic cutting Large numbers of stitching machine. Cutting process Sourcing of fabrics, trims machines are installed in involves various sub-processes, and packing accessories multiple sewing lines in the like fabric relaxation, layering, stitching floor. Stitching marker making, cutting, re- We all know kapada (fabric) is operators stitch garment cutting, shorting and bundling, the primary raw material for parts together and assemble making garments. To make numbering of plies etc. Cut garments. One operator a garment we need various components are checked prior sews only one or couple of kinds of trims too depending to sending the garment to operations. Hence numbers on garment design. Common next process. of operators are involved in trim are like stitching threads, Printing and Embroidery completing the stitching of buttons, , tape, a garment. , hook, snap buttons etc. You might have seen printed Factory sources fabrics and designs or/and embroidery Just stitching garment parts all other itemsfrom the local designs on your clothes. are not enough. All garments market or from the buyer Printing and embroidery must be defect free. To ensure nominated suppliers. Prior work are value added but stitching quality factory to use these items, factory optional process.All designs involves quality checkers to checks quantity and quality may not have print and the stitched garments in of the items. Checking of raw embroider work. Printing or the line and end of the line. All materials is done to ensure Embroidery is only done if defective garments are repaired that only quality materials customer asked for it. Printing in the line prior to sending are usedin the following on garments is done either garment to the next process. process. This ensures to get on full length fabric or on Just for your information - quality garmentsat the end of garment panels after cutting different types of industrial garment production. garment components. There sewing machines are used is number of printing method in industrial production. Cutting garment parts and printing techniques for Lockstitch, overlock, flat As mentioned above, to printing fabrics and garments. lock, chain stitch, profile make a garment factory cuts Even printing is done after stitch, bar tacking, button fabricsinto garment parts. making the complete garment. attaching and button holing In mass garment production In case factory doesn’t have machines are to name some numbers of garments are made in-house print / embroidery of the industrial sewing for thesame design and same machines this process machines. Now-a-days various size. Multiple fabric plies are is outsourced. technologies are used for cut together after layering joining garment components Garment Stitching fabricson the cutting table. (making seam). To learn more After fabric layering, marker You might have seen tailors to about garment manufacturing, is made manually on the top stitch garments in a tailoring you can refer my blog www. ply using pattern paper or shop. They normally use 2-3 onlineclothingstudy.com

40 CMYK

41 CMYK

Garment washing steam iron to remove creases inspection report. Based on and wrinkles. After inspection result auditor Being a customer we would garments get a new and (inspector) decides whether never buy a soiled or stained fresh look. to pass or fail the shipment. garment. Brands know this. Passed shipment is sent to So factory takes care of Garment folding and dispatch section. In case garment presentation and packing shipment failed, garments are finishing. Factory cleans all oil Nicely pressed garments are rechecked and repaired. stains, pencil/chalk marks, folded in a specific dimension. dust by spotting or washing. Shipment delivery All garment accessories and Garment washing is done to tags like hangtags and price Pass shipments are sends to remove dirt and dust from the tags are attached to each buyers/retailers. For domestic garments. Washing of whole garment. Folded garments are order finished garments are lot is done only if buyer needs then packed into poly bags. sent to retailers’ warehouse washing for their orders. Packing is done for individual or directly to the distribution More than just cleaning of garments or multiple centers.Thus our favorite garments, washing is also garments are packed into a clothes reach to retails done to give washed look to poly bag. Barcode stickers stores. It is a long journey of the finished garments, to are attached to the price tags. garments before they are put improve softness and hand Then garments are packed on display in a store. Since feel.For jeans and into a bigger carton. raw material purchase to garment washing is must. reaching to retails shop may Industrial washing machines Garment Inspection and takes 30-100 days. are used for bulk garment quality assurance: washing. This was an overview We have learned that of readymade garment Finishing of stitched garments are checked at manufacturing. What you garments stitching and finishing stages. have just read is the primary At this stage finished and A stitched garment comes processes of garment making. folded garments are audited with lot of loose threads, In between these processes for quality assurance of the long tails, numbering there are many other products. Factory follows stickers, various kinds of processes involved depending certain quality standard, and stitching defects, raw material on the product designs. Every inspection procedure to audit defects and handling defects. brand follows a different set the packed garments. In finishing section thread of procedures to manufacture trimming, sticker removing Let’s take an example of their designs. Also each and spot removing are done. an export order. In export product type demands a All garments are thoroughly orders, packed cartons are different set of processes, checked to ensure product audited internally prior to handling and finishing. Same quality. Measurements of handing over shipment to product can be made with the garment are checked buyer quality inspection different set of machines and to ensure that garment representative for final equipment. Every process specifications are strictly shipment inspection. Buyer and all variations of the same followed by factory and representative inspects process can’t be covered in a correct size label is stitched to shipment using certain single article. Keep reading each garments. All defective AQL standard. AQL means more books and articles garments are repaired. Acceptable Quality Level. on readymade garment Garments are pressed using Auditor preparesshipment manufacturing.

42 CMYK

43 CMYK

Opportunities & Challenges of Indian textile Industry

PROSENJIT PANDIT [email protected]

extile is India’s one of in the world after China. Also Tthe oldest industries and & process has been has a formidable presence in significantly increased with the national economy as it time. The rapid growth in the contributes to about 14 per decentralized garment segment cent of manufacturing value- in the past decade or so has addition, accounts for around added to the dimension of the one-third of our gross export textile industry. The garment Prosenjit Pandit earnings and provides gainful segment began initially as employment to lacs of people. an export-oriented effort but People are engaged from cotton it has grown in volume and purpose, coordinated and and farmers, artisans diversity and the export of complementary efforts are and weavers who are engaged ready made garments now required on the part of the in the organized as well as accounts for over 40 per industry, the Central and decentralized and household cent of the value of total State Government’s Export sectors spread across the textile exports. Promotion Councils, Textile entire country. Research Associations and However, the industry has to the like. The growth of the industry work hard, improve certain over the years has been areas of weaknesses and Labour Policy characterized by expansion enhance its competitive Also the textile industry has in dimension, changes in strength not only to retain but the maximum deployment fibre-mix, adoption of new also improve its position in of manpower right after technology and increase in the textile map of the world, agriculture. Now govt policy availability of goods for home particularly in the context of is proposed minimum wages consumption and exports. In the emerging liberalisation uto Rs350/- for unskilled the spinning segment, has and globalisation of textile operator & Rs600/- for increased as the second largest product and trade. For this skilled operator. This will give

44 CMYK

textile industry a big blow. value-added items including to increase their overall Although it is good move by made-ups and apparels. competitive strength. The government to increase the It is, therefore, imperative Indian textile industry may living standard of our country that our industry must gear also like to explore this route but cost of production per up to integrated consumer for enhancing comparative unit of yarn/fabric/garment tastes and preferences in advantage and convert it into will increase. Our domestic their production and develop competitive strength. or export market is not ready marketing infrastructure so as Value added business to pay this extra cost. This to service both domestic and will further reduce the profit international requirements We need to explore new areas margin of textile sector. India timely and effectively. The of technical textiles where we is now facing major challenges industry can contribute import textile products from from Bangladesh, Vietnam, towards development of developed countries. There is Cambodia & we are waiting marketing infrastructure tremendous potential to grab to face the fresh challenge through their own association new business with very good from Ethiopia & other and export promotion councils. profit margin. These products African countries. The Government has set up include medical textile, seven National Institute of , building textile, high Technology upgradation Fashion Technology Centres altitude textiles for defense, The rate of absorption of providing skilled human protecting fabrics & other work modern machinery and resources to the apparel and & wear fabrics. technology in the industry textile industry. Besides, the Hopes for new has been slow. This is Government has equipped increasingly affecting costs certain Powerloom Service Needless to say that the and productivity efficiency. Centres, Weavers Service textile industry has several The Government on its part Centres and Training challenges ahead and re- has launched the Technology Institutes. The industry orientation of the industry, Upgradation Fund Scheme can take help from these both organic and systemic, (TUFS) to give the industry organisations in meeting is required to enhance its access to timely and adequate their design requirements. It competitive strength and capital at internationally has also been decided to set improve its global positioning comparable rates of interest for up a National Design Centre in the new millennium. In upgrading its technology and for Handlooms. this effort, the Government’s improving its competitiveness initiative, some of which Joint Venture as well as long-term viability. have been outlined above, The industry must take It is important to note that may not be sufficient. The advantage of this opportunity the production environment industry including the and overhaul the outdated in textiles all over the world textile machinery sector and technology-mix being used is undergoing changes. related organisations must in different sectors of the Countries are trying to supplement these initiatives in industry, particularly the complement their own a more proactive manner, so decentralised sector. comparative advantage, that the industry achieves cost whether in technology or in reduction, attains quantum Product Development raw materials or in finance, jump in quality production The future growth, particularly by forging joint ventures or and improves delivery systems. in export markets, will come production or marketing Source: Ministry of textiles reports & mainly from exports of tie-ups with other countries some other web documents

45 CMYK

46 CMYK

Vilmed Nonwovens in Medical Applications

SUBHAMOY BANERJEE [email protected]

edical textiles are Implantable, Extra Corporeal, Mtextile products and Healthcare Hygiene products constructions for medical and Hygiene products. & biological applications. Design of medical textiles is Apart from these we also have driven by its end function. Nonwoven for transdermal The textiles need to fulfil patches commonly used as the purpose for which it pain reliever and nonwoven carbon fibre disc filter pads to was designed, e.g. Swabs Subhamoy Banerjee need absorbent textiles arrest bad odour. whereas sutures may need Nonwoven backings: biodegradable textiles. Medical fast processing, and plaster strips can be textiles are broadly divided reliable quality coated with adhesive and have into following four segments a high tensile strength. This based on their applications. Vilmed® Nonwovens used as means further processing These are Non-implantable, backings for wound dressings is simple and effective. In practice soft and flexible The products that fall under above segments are as follows: Vilmed® Nonwovens conform perfectly to the contours of Non Implantable Extra Healthcare Hygiene the body. Since they offer implantable Corporeal Hygiene Products good permeability to air, Products they are particularly kind to Absorbent Biodegradable Artificial Surgical Feminine the skin. Vilmed Nonwoven pads sutures kidney, liver Hygiene backings have excellent Wound Artificial Mechanical Surgical abrasion properties and a contact tendons, lung water repellent finish. Vilmed layer ligaments, Nonwovens can be sterilised skin, and are available in both cartridge white and beige.

47 CMYK

►► breathable, water repellent they offer, both with regard Coverstock ►► conform perfectly to body to user requirements and contours material properties. Apart from ►► high tensile strength, the characteristic features excellent abrasion properties of comfort and kindness to the skin the range of other Nonwovens for wound pads: special properties includes versatile and effective non-adherent compress When selecting raw materials surfaces and high absorbency particular attention is paid in particular. This helps to absolute safety. Vilmed® make Vilmed compresses Nonwovens are bonded ideal for the care of both dry thermally and therefore free and secretory wounds, since of bonding agents, further blood and secretions are enhancing tolerance. The non- passed on to the absorbent Nonwoven Adhesive Tape adherent surface encourages pad thanks to the special fibre Substrate the healing process. Additional structure. They do not stick finishes such as antiseptic to the wound, with the result Vilmed® adhesive tape treatment, printing and that changing dressings does substrates are available in colouring provide a basis not hurt and is particularly the colours white and beige. for tailoring the products to gentle, since the wound is Upon request the substrates customerrequirements. Vilmed left untouched for the healing can be provided with a water- Nonwovens can be sterilised process. Where manufacture repellent finish. They can be and are available with various of absorbent compresses with coated with adhesive in further surface structures. particularly high absorbency processing using all common of secretions is concerned, technologies. ►► physiologically safe raw our Vilmed® Nonwovens come materials into their own as coverstock: ►► breathable, kind to the ►► permeable to air, non- their outstanding feature is the skin adherent to wounds open-pore nonwoven structure, ►► easy to use ►► highly absorbent, fast flow which in clinical applications ►► can be coated with of Secretions ensures optimum flow of adhesive ►► with water-repellent finish Traditional Wound Care secretions to the absorbent layer. This helps Vilmed® if desired coverstock makedébridement Oriented to consumer even faster. At the same time needs, unlimited potential the non-adherent properties of Applications for Vilmed the soft and gentle nonwovens Nonwovens in medicine range are invaluable in the wound from adhesive tape substrates healing process. to wound pad materials. ►► without bonding agents Thanks to the multitude of Nonwovens for compresses ►► soft, kind to the skin possible combinations of and coverstock for fast ►► non-adherent to the wound various types of fibres, bonding débridement ►► absorbent, fast flow of processes, manufacturing, Vilmed® Nonwovens for secretions finishing and processing medical applications stand out ►► sterilisable methods we succeed in for the numerous advantages ►► various surface structures achieving a wide range of

48 CMYK

Adhesive Tape Substrate strips are the particular dressings industry as they advantages offered by the are put into use in clinical material: they are easy to applications every day, for process, permeable to air, non- example to secure dressings adherent to wounds and highly or tubes. They are easy to absorbent properties of benefit use and to tear off, and these to manufacturers and end features too been have proven users alike. Medical products in practice. for care of wounds that are product characteristics. based on Vilmed Nonwovens Kind to the skin and In addition to the material are put to successful use designed with application properties of comfort and both in post-operative wound in mind kindness to skin, there are care and in treatment of A soft, clingy nonwoven other special features: non- minor injuries. substrate is produced adherent surface, attractive from carefully selected raw Put to the test every day – appearance, absorbency, air materials. Breathable Vilmed® proven over time permeability, tensile strength substrate provides the and stretch properties. This The success with Vilmed® basis for your final product, diversity provides the basis Nonwovens for medical an adhesive tape which is for complete satisfaction applications is based to a kind to the skin: since it is of product requirements, great extent on the typical breathable, skin irritations which are defined by the advantages offered by this such as macerations, which respective applications. material. In particular the are caused when air is not adhesive tape substrates offer allowed to circulate, are ruled Carefully directed effects outstanding features such as out from the start. Another resulting from defined comfort for the patient and plus in everyday use is the properties kindness to the skin. Vilmed® water repellent property of the The outstanding features adhesive tape substrates are nonwovens used: even when of Vilmed Nonwovens for made from wet-laid nonwovens damp, adhesive tapes made backings and wound pads in and have been successfully from Vilmed do not need to be wound dressings and plaster used for years in the medical changed immediately.

49 CMYK

50 CMYK

Evaluation of Thermal Protective Performance of Firefighters’ Clothing

DR. SUMIT MANDAL [email protected], [email protected]

s a result of the extensive etc. In India, although there Ause of combustible are a lot of reputed garment substances in recent years, manufacturers in field of fire hazards have become fashionable clothing, there more complicated,which are very few manufactures hassubsequently increased in the field of thermal the demand for better protective clothing. In this safetymeasures for firefighters. context, it is notable that the manufacturing of high In India, many fire incidences Dr. Sumit Mandal happened in the last few years performance thermal protective –Delhi Uphaar Cinema fire clothing requires state- in 1997, Meerut fire in 2004, of-the-art testing facilities customized test methods Jaipur oil fire in 2009, Kolkata for properly evaluating the have been developed to thermal protective performance AMRI hospital fire in 2011, etc. evaluate the protective of the clothing. In these fire incidences, every performance. These test year numerous firefighters In order to properly methods are frequently used get burnedand many of them evaluate the thermal to evaluate the performance also lose their lives while protective performance of of thermal protective fabrics fighting fires, rescuing people the clothing, it is always and clothing (Mandal, 2016; or responding to hazardous required to understand the Mandal, et al., 2013). material incidents. The best thermal exposures faced Evaluation of thermal way for firefighters to mitigate by firefighters; then, it is protective performance skin burn injuries andreduce necessary to simulate these of fabrics risk of death from fire hazards thermal exposures in the while on duty is touse high laboratory to evaluate the In the last few decades, performance thermal protective protective performance. different standard clothing. There are various Generally, it has been found organizations [International garment manufacturers that firefighters can be Organization for around the world, who exposed to various thermal Standardization (ISO), can commercially produce exposures – flame, radiant- Switzerland; American Society firefighters’ protective clothing. heat, hot surface, steam, for Testing and Materials These manufacturers are: hot-water, and molten metal (ASTM), USA; Canadian DuPont – USA, Davey Textile substances. By simulating General Standards Board Solutions INC – Canada, these thermal exposures, (CGSB), Canada] have Trans-Textil GmbH– Germany, different standardized or developed the bench-scale

51 CMYK

test methods to evaluate attempting to develop some Additionally, the percentage of the thermal protective new methods for evaluating burn injury on human body performance of fabrics under the protective performance under flash fire exposure is various thermal exposures.For under flame and radiant- also calculated. example, 1) ISO 9151, ASTM heat exposures that will be Towards the end of 20th 4108, ASTM F 2703, and applicable for firefighters’ as century many universities and ASTM F 2700 standards are well as industrial-workers’ researchers have attempted developed for flame exposure, clothing.Overall, these bench- to develop the manikin by 2) ASTM F 1939, ASTM E scale test methods are less using unique type of sensors 1354, ISO 6942 standards expensive and can accurately that can accurately represent are developed for radiant-heat measure the thermal protective human skin. For example, exposure, 3) ASTM D 7024 performance of fabrics; DuPont – USA have developed and ASTM F 1060 standards however, these tests cannot the manikin ‘Thermo-Man’, are developed for hot surface accurately represent the University of Alberta – Canada thermal protective performance contact exposure, 4) ASTM F have developed the manikin clothing made by these fabrics. 2701 standard is developed ‘Harry Burn’, and North for hot-water splash exposure, Evaluation of thermal Carolina State University and 5) ASTM F 955 standard protective performance – USA have developed the is developed for molten metal of clothing manikin ‘PyroMan’. Although substance exposure. By using the size of these manikins is these standards, the protective In order to evaluate same (40 size male body), the performance can be evaluated the thermal protective types of sensors instrumented in terms of ‘heat transfer performance of clothing, ISO on these manikins are different performance of fabrics’, 13506 and ASTM F 1930 and developed by these ‘radiant heat resistance of standard are frequently used. universities and research fabrics’, and/or ‘time required In these standards, a full-scale organization.For example, for generatingthe second manikin is instrumented with ‘Thermo-Man’ is instrumented degree burn injury on wearers’. sensors;then, the clothing with embedded sensors, ‘Harry Recently, Mandal (2016) that needs to be tested is Burn’ is instrumented with developed some customized put on the manikin and the skin simulant sensors, and methods to evaluate the clothed manikin is engulfed ‘PyroMan’ is instrumented with protective performance of into flash fire (generates from PyroCal sensors. Additionally, fabrics under steam and 8 or 12 propane gas burners) the used software programs hot-water immersion with for certain duration (Figure 1). with these manikins are also compression exposures After the flash fire exposure, developed by the respective (Mandal, et al., 2016). He also thermal energy (heat flux) universities and research customized some standard– transmitted through the organization. Recently, some ISO 9151, ASTM E 1354, clothing is measured by the other organizations have ASTM F 1060, and ASTM F instrumented sensors. This also installed these manikins 2701 – to effectively evaluate heat flux values are used in in their laboratory. These the protective performance software (that is programmed organizations are:Empa – of fabrics under various according to the Henriques Swiss Federal Laboratories thermal exposures – flame, Burn Integral Equation) to for Materials Science and radiant-heat, hot surface, and calculate the time required Technology, Switzerland; hot-water splash (Mandal, to generate the burn injury British Textile Technology et al., 2013; Mandal, et on human body (manikin) Group (BTTG), United al., 2014). Recently, he is while wearing clothing. Kingdom;Aitex Certification

52 CMYK

53 CMYK

to involve trained research personnel and engineers to effectively install and operate the new fabric and clothing Manikin testing facilities under Flash Fire various thermal exposures. Additionally, it is also required to evaluate the comfort performance of thermal protective clothing for better A Burner safety of firefighters. References

1. Mandal S. (2016).Studies of the Laboratory, Spain; Dankook protective performance of thermal protective performance of University, Korea; Donghua fabrics and clothing. In this textile fabrics used in firefighters’ University, China; CTT context, it is notable that clothing under various thermal exposures.PhD Thesis. University Group, Canada; and SENAI- thelatest instrument and of Alberta, Edmonton, Canada. CETIQT, Brazil. Some of trained personnel are required 2. Song G. (2004). Modeling thermal these organizations have also to effectively evaluate the protection outfit for fire exposures. developed the female body protective performance,and PhD Thesis.North Carolina State form of these manikins or burn these resources are available University, Raleigh, USA. injury calculating software. For only in few laboratories of 3. Torvi, D. A. (1997). Heat transfer in thin fibrous materials under high example: BTTG have developed the world. Three pioneer heat flux conditions. PhD Thesis. female instrumented manikin laboratories in this area are: University of Alberta, Edmonton, and Empa, Switzerland have Laboratory for Protection and Canada. developed the burn injury Physiology, Empa, Switzerland; 4. Mandal, S., Song, G., & calculating software. This Protective Clothing and Gholamreza, F. (2016) A novel protocol to characterize the Empa software is now installed Equipment Research Facility, thermal protective performance in BTTG and Aitex. Recently, University, Canada; Textile of fabrics in hot-water exposures. University of Alberta, Canada Protection and Comfort Journal of Industrial Textiles, has also developed a manikin Center, North Carolina State 46(1), 279-291. that can evaluate the thermal University, USA. Currently, 5. Mandal, S., Lu, Y., Wang, F., & protective performance under some other laboratories in the Song, G. (2014).Characterization of thermal protective clothing hot-water spray exposure world are also operational to under hot water and pressurized (Mandal, et al., 2014). evaluate the thermal protective steam exposure.AATCC Journal of performance of fabrics and/ Research, 1(5), 7-16. Summary and Conclusion or clothing. There laboratories 6. Mandal, S.,Song, G., Ackerman, Based on the above are namely Personal Protective M., Paskaluk, S., &Gholamreza, F. (2013).Characterization of textile Equipment Center, Dankook discussion, a lot of standard fabrics under various thermal and customized methods have University, South Korea; exposures.Textile Research been developed to evaluate the Protective Clothing and Journal, 83(10), 1005-1019. thermal protective performance Research Center, Donghua of fabrics and clothing. By University, China; Center using these methods, many of Excellence for Protective researchers (Mandal, 2016; Textile, Northern India Textile Song, 2004; Torvi, 1997) Research Association, India. have also evaluated the However, it is always required

54 CMYK

Glimpse of Personal Protective Equipment and Its Testing Regulations, CE Marking

SUVODEEP MUKHERJEE [email protected],

A Personal Protective Classification of PPE Equipment (PPE) can be defined as: PPE is categorized into different risk levels for assessment: ►► Any device or appliance designed to be worn or Simple (cat I) - Designed to held by an individual for protect against risks that the protection against one or user can assess for themselves more health and safety and the effects of which are Suvodeep Mukherjee hazards and shall include: can be safely identified by the ►► A unit constituted by user in good time. the several devices or Complex (cat III) - Designed to chemicals, cleaning agents) appliances which have protect against mortal dangers ►► Thermal risks not been integrally combined or dangers that may seriously exceeding 50 degree C by the manufacturer irreversibly cause harm or ►► Dangerous impacts (e.g. for the protection of an where the user cannot identify gloves or for individual against one or the immediate effects of the professional use) more simultaneous risks danger in good time. ►► Atmospheric agents of ►► A protective device or neither exceptional or appliance combined , Intermediate (cat II) - Anything extreme nature (e.g. separable or inseparably, which is neither “simple” nor , Seasonal Clothing, with personal non- “complex” ) ►► Sunlight (e.g. protective equipment Simple PPE for the execution of a – excepting for special specific activity ►► Superficial mechanical environments such as at ►► Interchangeable risks (e.g. gardening gloves altitude or high reflection) components which , thimbles) ►► Minor impacts and are essential to its ►► Weak chemicals whose vibrations which do not satisfactory functioning effects are reversible caused irreversible lesions and used exclusively for (e.g. gloves for protection (e.g. light use ) such equipment against hose hold ►► Self Certification

55 CMYK

Complex PPE the product. Must include What items should all the relevant data on I CE mark? ►► Filtering respiratory which manufacturer relies protectors. CE Marketing is applicable to ensure compliance with to Toys, Personal Protective ►► Respiratory protection essential requirements Equipment, Medical Devices, for full insulation ►► File may relate to multiple Pressure Vessels inc Hot (e.g. diving ) samples if products water boilers, Gas appliances, ►► PPE providing limited are related (i.e gloves of Electrical Equipment inc protection from chemicals differing styles/but same Radio Telecommunications or ionizing radiation materials ) equipment, General ►► Emergency equipment for ►► BVCPS India is able machinery, etc. If multiple use in high temperature to assist you with the Directives apply and require environments (over compilation of your CE marking, use of CE mark 100 degree C ) or low technical files. temperature environments implies conformity with all (below air temperature of Testing Laboratories applicable Directives. -50 degree C) ►► Laboratories must hold The CE Mark ►► Protection against fall from Accreditation for the Must be at least 5mm heights harmonized standard or in height, all characters ►► Protectors against electrical for the individual tests must be same size, may risks and dangerous involved held from an be accompanied by the voltages organization covered by the identification number of a MRA. Conformity of Notified Body involved in ►► BVCPS India Private Ltd. intermediate PPE assessment for complex New laboratory opening in category 3 PPE, shall be ►► By means of EC Type Noida has facility to offer visible, legible and indelible Examination (article 10) these services Inhouse for lifetime of product ►► Notified Body assesses for Gloves. Other product Technical File to ensure ranges scheduled to be Who applies the essential requirements are added in future. CE Mark? met ►► Prior to this BVCPS India CE mark is applied by the ►► An actual products is Private Ltd. Can assist with “responsible person”. This examined for compliance testing utilizing BVCPS is either: with the technical file GERMANY facilities. details, safe use ►► the manufacturer or What is CE marking? ►► EC Type Examination his authorised agent Certificate issued by Symbolises that a product established within the Notified Body so marked complies with European Community or Technical Documentation the relevant community ►► The person who places requirements as imposed the PPE on the market ►► Technical files must on the manufacturer. It (providing that the be submitted for items is a declaration by the manufacturer or his requiring EC Type manufacturer that those agents are not) established Examination requirements have been met with the European ►► Technical file contains the in full. It is a declaration that Community (directive Who, What, Where and all conformity procedures have 89/686/EEC Article 2 Why information regarding been completed. Paragraph 3)

56 CMYK

57 CMYK

Impact Resistant Protective Textiles

DR M K TALUKDAR [email protected]

rotective Textiles deal with dressing material, does any Pprotection. But protection textile do away with the has been very basis of textiles concept of protection. The from their origin. If we look answer would certainly be back to the history of primitive “NO”. Thus, any textile in one man and the gradual use of way or other has an inbuilt leaves – bark and natural fibre characteristic or function and textiles, we discover that of protection. protection against weather Dr M K Talukdar Personal protective textiles and climatic conditions was are so complicated that the objective of textiles and no single classification clothing. Yes, with civilization chemical protection, can clearly summarize and scientific growth, textiles mechanical impact protection, all kinds of protection. and clothing have undergone radiation protection, Depending upon the end many phenomenal changes. biological protection, electrical use, personal protective We have seen clothing ranging protection and wearer visibility textiles can be classified as from country to country and protection. industrial protective textiles, even sex to sex. For example, agricultural protective Mechanical Impact and Sarees are unique textiles, military protective Protection to our country. And even textiles, civilian protective Dhotis and Sarees, as we With advancement in science textiles, medical protective move from north to south and technology, and with textiles, sports and space and east to west, change globalization, we can feel the protective textiles. dramatically both in size and discernible improvement in form. But irrespective of this, Personal protective textiles can standard of living. On the it is one size and form or be further classified according other hand, it is unfortunate the other, whether it is one to the end use functions that we cannot find mankind fashion or the other, whether such as thermal protection, at rest. It may be on the it is bisexual or unisexual flame retardant protection, name of super power, it can

58 CMYK

be on name of caste, creed or Factors that Influence ►► Textile properties religion even it can be on the Ballistic Performance i) High Flexibility name of protecting mankind, ii) High abrasion The heart of a ballistic the world is not free from resistance protective vest is the yarn. wars, free from aggression, iii) Wear comfort free from military actions Normally para-aramid and most concerning not and ultra high molecular Properties of yarn weight fibres (UHMWF) free from terrorism. Thus However, the bullet proof vest are used. These fibres are the range of hazards and the will be only effective if the yarn characterized by its high means of combating them is properly processed. are growing and continue tenacity, high modulus of to grow and become more elasticity, low density and high Anti-Ballistic Fabric energy absorption. General complex. A consequence The quality of the vest is characteristics of these fibres of this development and largely determined at the are: exploitation of new fibres, weaving stage. The factors structures and clothing ►► Mechanical and Dynamic that influence id performance systems whose purpose is to Properties include the type of equipment provide improved protection, i) High tensile strength used, the fabric construction whilst maintaining comfort, and modulus of and strength, its crimp level, efficiency and well-being. elasticity finishing treatment etc. Ballistic armor is designed ii) Low density Improper weaving will reduce on both the type and level of iii) Good vibration damping the ballistic resistance. If the threat. For example, choice of iv) High energy absorption fabric is woven too dense, too textiles and its area density v) High toughness much damage to the yarn will depends on the type and vi) Low Fatigue decrease ballistic performance. velocity of the projectile as ►► Chemical Properties If the fabric is woven too well as the expected degree of i) Good chemical resistance loose, not enough filaments comfort and level of protection. ►► Thermal Properties encounter the projectiles. Plain The kinetic energy of the i) Heat resistance weave gives best performance penetrating object must be ii) Low heat expansion since it has maximum cross- absorbed by the fibrous iii) Low heat conductivity over points. work and dispersed to prevent ►► Electrical Properties Finishing localized damage. Threats can i) Good dielectric be classified as follows: properties Humidity is another factor influencing ballistic Fabric specifications are given below: performance. Water in a ballistic fabric behaves Linear Filaments, Strength Tenacity Elongtion Chord like a lubricant between density, No at break, at break, at modulus, projectile and protective dtex N mN/tex break,% Gpa layers necessitating protection 550 500 135 2370 3.45 91 against water penetration. 840 1000 215 2500 3.50 92 This is achieved by welding the 930 1000 225 2350 3.50 90 fabric into a water proof cover. However, during use of a vest 1100 1000 267 2350 3.50 90 the cover may be damaged and 1680 1000 385 2350 3.50 90 humidity may then penetrate. 3360 2000 688 1990 3.70 97 A water repellent treatment

59 CMYK

Threat Velocity, Kinetic Present Kinetic Typical eliminates the risk of damage m/s energy (J) Area, mm2 Energy armor being caused if the cover Density type is perforated. (KED) J/mm2 The water repellent treatment Knife 10 43 2.5(blunt) 17 Special is applied after weaving, before 0.2 (sharp) 210 textiles processing and keeps the and plates humidity out of fabric. Hand 450 1032 65(initial) 16 Textiles The performance of the vest is gun 254(final) 4 defined as: bullet (0.357”) ►► Adequate resistance to Assault 720 2050 45 45 Composites projectiles in accordance rifle with the required bullet protection class. (AK47) ►► Trauma resistance High 940 1805 24 75 Ceramic ►► Maximum weight of the velocity garment or the inserted bullet ballistic fabric panel. (SA 80) Number of Layers Particulars Aramid HM High Density ►► Depending on protection Aramid Polyethylene level and fabric style from Specific Density, g/cc 1.44 1.45 0.97 7 - 50 layers Tenacity mN/tex 195 195 309 ►► Yarn manufacturers Modulus of elasticity, Gpa 70 121 2000 recommendations ►► Weavers quality in weaving Elongation at break, % 3.6 2.1 2.7 ►► May use Aramid or Polyethylene or a combination of both Level Round Caliber Ammunition Mass Minimum ►► Aramid has best projectile Type bullet velocity stopping properties and I 1 38 Special RN Lead 10.20 g 259 m/s is flexible 2 22 LRHV Lead 2.50 320 m/s ►► Polyethylene has good II-A 1 0.357 JSP 10.20 g 381 m/s trauma absorption 2 Magnum FMJ 8.00 g 332 m/s properties - But is 9 mm very stiff. + II 1 0.357 JSP 10.20 g 425 m/s Testing Standards of 2 Magnum FMJ 8.00 g 358 m/s 9 mm Ballistic Vests III-A 1 0.44 Lead SWC 15.55 g 426 m/s A small bullet fired at bullet 2 Magnum FMJ 8.0 g 426 m/s proof fabrics encounters fewer 9 mm threads than a large bullet. III 7.92 mm FMJ 9.70 g 838 m/s A fast small bullet with the Win same total energy of a large IV 30-06 AP 10.80 868 m/s slow bullet will penetrate body AP : Armor piercing JSP: Jacketed soft point RN: Round nose armor much deeper. A 0.357 FMJ: Full Metal Jacketed LRHV: Long rifle high velocity SWC: Semi-wad cutter magnum from a revolver is

60 CMYK

61 CMYK

therefore easier to stop than Justice and known as N.l.J. Armor) and 20mm blunt a 0.22 magnum from a rifle. 0101.03. This standard allows trauma for any type of vest Additionally, the harder bullets for a back face signature of which is worn over clothing do not deform on impact as 44mm when body armor is (Overt Armor) is followed. In much and penetrate more tested. This is regardless of Great Britain Home Office that softer bullets. A deformed level of protection the body requirement of 25mm blunt bullet will encounter more armor offers. Other standards trauma using the NIJ test aramid fibres and is more used, such as the U.S. PPAA standard is followed. . This likely to be defeated. Standard 1989-05 also use clearly demonstrates that 44mm as the maximum the NIJ Standard and its test Stopping the bullet is only method is most widely used part of the problem. As aramid allowable blunt trauma, standard in the world. does not stretch, when a bullet but requires less shots fired against the armor being tested. is contained, the energy is There are basically six Some armor that passes for absorbed and dispersed from protection levels under the NIJ instance the PPAA standard the struck fibres to other fibres standard ranging from Level I may still fail the NIJ standard in the weave of the fabric and for .38 revolver to Level IV for during testing. ultimately to the body. This 0.30-06 Armor Piercing Rifle shock to the body is know as As there is a lot of confusion Ammunition and allows to test blunt trauma and must be about the various test with any type of ammunition kept at a level where injury standards, the harder NIJ using the prescribed test from it does not occur. The standard is used by law methods, NIJ Standard is human body can withstand enforcement agencies in the given below: a certain amount of blunt USA and generally in other trauma and this tolerance to it Conclusion countries which do not have is referred to in millimetres of their own test standards. The ballistic resistance of soft “back face signature” during The NIJ standard is also ballistic material is determined testing of body armor. required by all of our Asian by three factors of equal There are numerous different and Middle East customers. importance viz, fiber, fabric test standards around the In Europe, German standard and making-up. The vest must world. The oldest and best Schutzklasse “L” which allows be designed so as to cope with known standard is by the only 40mm blunt trauma for a velocity substantially higher U.S. National Institute of concealment vests (Covert than the ballistic limit.

62 CMYK

SleepSafe: Develop Safe Habit of Sleeping

KRISHNA KUMAR BAHETI [email protected]

e spend nearly 1/3 of over 1/3 of an ounce worth Wour lives in bed, which of skin cells per week proving makes protecting our sleep a constant supply of food environment not just a good for dust mites. The main practice, but a healthier issue with dust mites is their practice as well. Mattress microscopic fecal matter left & Pillow covers are a fitted behind daily, which creates layer above your mattress/ issues for those with allergies pillow and are not washed and asthma. Just one mattress Krishna Kumar Baheti daily, resulting invasion of can be home to over 10 dust mites and bed bugs. million fecal matter producing Moreover most families will dust mites. Cleaning your your sheets will kill the dust have several fluid spills on sheets often is not enough to mites and remove their leftover each of their mattresses keep dust mite populations fecal matter. Dust mites are attributed to children, pets, down as they can also be a constant problem for many incontinence, drinks and even found living on the surface who suffer from daily allergy ceiling leaks. To protect you of your mattress, which and asthma triggers. By and your family, mattress and is seldom if ever cleaned. reducing dust mite exposure pillow protector products are Some frequently vacuum the to the mattress, the sleeper designed to improve health surface of their mattress, can better control their sleep and offer fluid protection. but the best way to reduce environment resulting in a dust mite populations is reduction in allergy triggers Dust Mites Protection through a bedding encasement and better air quality. Dust mites are microscopic or mattress protector. By Bed Bugs Protection bugs that live off of dead skin applying a protection product, cells and animal dander. dust mites cannot penetrate Bed bugs, of the Cimicida Dust mite’s preferred place into the mattress making it family, are small visible bugs of residence is the mattress easier to remove dust mites. the size of an apple seeds that where skin cells are plentiful. Periodically washing your feed on warm-blooded animals. The average person sheds protector or encasement with Contrary to popular belief,

63 CMYK

cleanliness and hygiene have Protectors are waterproof and All these are made with nothing to do with bed bugs. breathable, which prevent hypoallergenic waterproof Bed bugs, unlike cockroaches, small or large fluid accidents Cotton Terry fabric and the do not feed on garbage so from permanently soiling your special s- guard membrane keeping a clean home will not mattress and provide a more with hygienic function below prevent you from having bed sterile sleep environment. If a the Fabric Layer, which acts bugs. All that is needed for a spill or fluid accident occurs, as a barrier against Bacteria, bed bug infestation is simply simply remove the protector Virus, Bed bugs, Dustmites, exposure to one. and place directly into the Liquids,etc,providing good washing machine with normal cleanliness and Hygieneic Bed bugs can be eradicated detergent that does not sleeping comfort. through the use of a contain bleach. professional pest control To prevent heat buildup operator or by purchasing keeping our protectors treatment products and cool and noiseless, the following a proven treatment surface material is made protocol. Along with either with soft cotton terry back course of action bedding coated with a breathable encasements should be polyurethane membrane. applied. Bedding encasements To ensure a great fit, an protect your mattress and elastic band is used on the box spring against invading side to automatically bed bugs and well as treat pull excess material under mattress sets that are Sleepsafe Mattress the mattress. Sleepsafe infested with bed bugs. One Protectors, a product from pillow protectors are also of the biggest mistakes people Swasan group for the retail recommended for added make is to throw away their and hospitality sector, offer dust mite, fluid and allergen mattresses. If the mattress or protection against dust mites, protection. At ShubhSwasan box springs are ever infested, fluids, urine, perspiration, & Sleepsafe we frequently they can be easily encased allergens and bacteria adapt to the latest technology with bedding covers trapping making them especially & demand by continually any hiding bed bugs inside. helpful for those with kids, researching and developing Eventually these hiding bed pets, allergies, asthma or new ideas in order to lead bugs will die of starvation as incontinence. With just one the industry in both quality they can only feed on a live fluid accident, a mattress and product features. The blood source. can be completely ruined or best way to lead is to listen, which is why we interact Urine and Fluids left with a permanent stain with retailers and actual Protection or odor. Sleepsafe protectors safeguard your mattress customers to find out how we Just one fluid accident against fluids and stains can improve our products. We can completely ruin an offering a more sterile sleeping are launching SLEEPSAFE unprotected mattress and void environment. SLEEPSAFE Foundation as part of our its manufacture warranty. encased & zippered waterproof Giving Back to the Society Mattresses are more expensive pillow protectors and Bed to serve the community than ever making mattress Bug Encasements operate that makes our business protection a smart investment silently and provide protection possible be part of the socially to ensure years of use. from dust mites, bed bugs, responsible members of SLEEPSAFE Mattress & Pillow allergy triggers and fluids. the society.

64 CMYK

Seminar on “Technical Textiles: The Next Big Opportunity” India International Centre, New Delhi 25th September 2016 Tentative Seminar Schedule

Registration 9:30 Hrs – 10:00 Hrs Inaugural Session 10:00 Hrs – 10:35 Hrs

Welcome Speech by Dr. Prabir Jana, President, TANTU Launching of Annual Souvenir of TANTU Keynote Address by Dr. Amalesh Mukhopadhyay, Advisor, Dept. of Science & Technology

Panel Discussion 1 10:35 Hrs – 11:35 Hrs WELLNESS & MEDICAL TEXTILES Chair: Dilip Gianchandani, COO, Fibre 2 Fashion

Panelist: ►► Dr. P J Singh, Managing Director, Tynor Orthotics, India ►► Mr. Krishna Kumar Baheti, Director Technical, Shubh Swasan India Pvt. Ltd. ►► Dr. Rabi Chattopadhyay, Professor IIT, Delhi ►► Mr. Subhamoy Banerjee, Senior Marketing Manager, Freudenberg Performance Material

Tea Break 11:35 Hrs – 11:50 Hrs

Presentation 1 11:50 Hrs – 12:10 Hrs Personal Air Filtration applications by Mann+Hummel India

Presentation 2 12:10 Hrs – 12:30 Hrs Nonwovens in medical applications by Freudenberg India

Panel Discussion 2 12:30 Hrs – 13:50 Hrs.

SAFETY & PROTECTIVE WEAR Chair: Deepak Mohindra, Editor in Chief, StitchWorld

Panelist: ►► Dr. Mrinal Talukdar, Director Technical, Kusumgar Corporate ►► Mr. Anurag Singhal, Managing Director, Sai Synergy LLP ►► Dr. Arindam Basu, Director General, NITRA, COE for Protective Textiles ►► Mr. Gaurav Kumar, Marketing Director, Excel Global ►► Dr. Mukesh Sinha, Scientist E (Dy. Director), Defence Research Development Organisation

Vote of Thanks by Sanjib Sinha, General Secretary, TANTU 13:50 Hrs - 14:00 Hrs

Networking Lunch 14:00 Hrs – onwards

65 CMYK

66 CMYK

67 CMYK

68