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Study on Innovation and Technology in the European and Mediterranean Textile and Clothing Industry

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Study on Innovation and Technology in the European and Mediterranean Textile and Clothing Industry Study on Innovation and Technology in the European and Mediterranean Textile and Clothing Industry Study undertaken by EURATEX – the European Apparel and Textile Confederation for Monastir El Fejja Competitiveness Pole (Contracting authority, service contract n° 04/2014) in the framework of project “Innovative cross-border approaches for Textile and Clothing Clusters co- development in the Mediterranean basin” funded by ENPI CBC Mediterranean Basin Programme October 2014 Contents 1. Introduction ................................................................................................................................4 2. General research, technology and market trends – the 4 strategic innovation areas of the European Textile Technology Platform ................................................................................................5 1.1 High added value products and high-tech processes ............................................................5 1.2 New applications for textiles................................................................................................6 1.3 New business models and product-services .........................................................................7 1.4 Sustainability .......................................................................................................................8 2 Process Innovation ......................................................................................................................9 2.1 Materials preparation & processing .....................................................................................9 2.2 Sustainability & resource-efficient processing .................................................................... 10 2.3 Advanced processing technologies for technical textiles .................................................... 11 2.4 Digitalisation & flexible manufacturing .............................................................................. 15 3 Product Innovation ................................................................................................................... 16 3.1 New textile surface functionalities ..................................................................................... 16 3.2 New structural properties .................................................................................................. 17 3.3 Smart products and product-services................................................................................. 18 4 Applications and Markets .......................................................................................................... 19 4.1 Protection, sports & leisure (Protech Sporttech Clothtech) ................................................ 19 4.2 Health & wellbeing (Medtech) ........................................................................................... 20 4.3 Functional interiors (Hometech) ........................................................................................ 20 4.4 Technical markets .............................................................................................................. 21 4.4.1 Automotive & other transport sectors (Mobiltech) .................................................... 21 4.4.2 Construction & architecture (Buildtech, Geotech) ...................................................... 21 4.4.3 Agriculture, energy & environment (Agrotech, Oekotech) .......................................... 22 4.4.4 Industrial applications (Indutech, Packtech) ............................................................... 23 5 R&D supporting institutions and programs ................................................................................ 24 5.1 Universities and polytechnics............................................................................................. 24 5.2 Research institutes & industrial technology centres ........................................................... 25 5.3 Networks and clusters ....................................................................................................... 28 5.4 EU funded programmes (i.e.: Horizon 2020) ...................................................................... 29 5.5 The European Technology Platform for the Future of Textiles and Clothing (Textile ETP) ... 31 6 Recommendations for TexMed countries and clusters .............................................................. 33 6.1 Recommendations: Research & Technology Capacities ...................................................... 33 6.2 Recommendations: Business Innovation ............................................................................ 33 6.3 Funding/Public Support ..................................................................................................... 33 7 Links and references ................................................................................................................. 34 1. Introduction Advanced materials, high-tech processes and manufacturing technologies as well as new business models, management and marketing concepts become an increasingly important factor of the competitiveness of the textile and clothing industry on the global market. The more successfully companies in the industrialised high labour cost countries exploit competitive advantages based on product, process, service or management innovation all generally based on knowledge and specialised qualifications of staff, the more the competitive advantages enjoyed by companies in developing and emerging economies generally based on lower labour costs, easier or cheaper access to raw materials, energy or other resources diminish. Textiles and even clothing or fashion products are becoming technology- and knowledge-intensive products. Today a wrong chemical compound in a clothing product can pose a big business risk for a brand or retailer. And the correct quality of a technical textile material used for such critical application as a filter, an airbag or a medical device is so crucial that customers are rarely willing to replace an established supplier for a competitor that offers a similar product for a lower price. It is therefore of great importance for the textile and clothing industry in the Mediterranean zone to adopt advanced manufacturing processes and technologies, invest in the skills and knowledge of their staff, explore new management and business models based on innovation, excellent supply chain information and management as well as higher added value in the products manufactured or the services offered. Over the last two decades the European textile and clothing sector has undergone a profound transformation and started a quest for new avenues of industry development and growth which has led to an hitherto unthinkable diversity of available fibre and textile materials, technologies and a sheer endless number of fields for their application and use in many industrial sectors and end markets. While European fashion and interior textile design and product quality remain in high demand, especially in the rapidly growing emerging markets, there now remains virtually no industrial sector or high-tech product untouched by textile innovation – from airplanes to smartphones, from race cars to medical implants, from bridges to deep sea platforms, from firefighting gear to clean room equipment, from high-tech greenhouses to food processing plants. This was achieved through a strong push into research and innovation, beyond the traditional chemistry, fibre and textile machinery development, often in close collaboration with research centres and universities and with supplier and customer sectors from outside the conventional textile value chains. Because the sector is dominated by small and medium-sized enterprises which lack significant internal resources and capacities the availability of public funding for pre-competitive collaborative research was a crucial contributor to this development. While such collaborations are mostly initiated at regional and national level through structures such as clusters and, the textile and clothing sector and its research community have also very actively participated in EU-level funding programmes. 2. General research, technology and market trends – the 4 strategic innovation areas of the European Textile Technology Platform 1.1 High added value products and high-tech processes The EU textile and clothing industry across the entire value chain – from fibres to end products - is actively working towards a higher added value in their products. The main goal is to exit the often ruinous competition in commodity markets dominated by low price as the decisive buying criterion of the customer, towards a specialty and niche product strategy, where in addition to price factors such as quality, reliability, constant product improvement and innovation play a more important role. Strategies employed by companies to reach this goal include: - Use of new, improved, functionalised materials - Application of new production processes and technologies - Efficient production of shorter runs or smaller batches delivered to customers at very short lead times - Greater market segmentation with better focus on attractive segments and exit of unattractive segments - Closer collaboration with suppliers and customers to offer more customised products Such strategies generally require investment in higher qualified personnel, new production technologies, more quality assurance capabilities, specialised marketing and sales competences, new factory
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