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Preferred & Materials Market Report 2019

2018 photo to be replaced (Infinited Fiber Pic?) Foreword from La Rhea Pepper

At Exchange, our Mission is to I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, if the Recycled Commitment inspire and equip people to accelerate we are serious about shifting from a fossil that encouraged brands and retailers to sustainable practices in the textile value -based sector to a circular one, we publicly commit to accelerating their use chain. We focus on minimizing the harmful need to embrace that reduce of recycled polyester by 25 percent by impacts of the global textile and and , and regenerate farmland. 2020 – a goal that was achieved in 2018, maximizing its positive effects. two years earlier than expected Textile Exchange is taking this need for a Textile Exchange is proud to bring you the transformational shift seriously. Under a Textile Exchange not only encourages Preferred Fiber and Materials Market Report new strategic direction that we’re calling companies to accelerate their use of 2019. This report, along with our annual “Climate+,” Textile Exchange will be the preferred , but as you’ll see in our Organic Market Report, measures driving force for urgent climate action with soon-to-be-released Material Change the production of fiber and materials with a goal of 35-45% reduced CO2 emissions Index (MCI), the largest peer-to-peer improved social and environmental impacts from textile fiber and material production by comparison initiative in the – what we call Preferred. 2030. industry, we acknowledge and honor companies that recognize the importance Together, these in-depth reports focus Just as this report is a culmination of more of integrating a preferred fiber and on the industry’s supply side, analyzing than thousands of farmers and companies materials strategy into their business production volumes, availability and taking action to create positive change, practices. The MCI tracks the apparel and emerging fiber trends. the “+” in Climate+ is a symbol indicating sector’s progress toward more that Textile Exchange cannot do this alone; Within these pages, you’ll read that fiber sustainable materials sourcing, aligns it will take you - each and every person in with global efforts like the Sustainable production has more than doubled in the their respective companies - to commit last 20 years and is expected to increase Development Goals and the transition to to transitioning fiber usage to a preferred a circular economy, and will be a key tool to 145 million metric tons by 2030 if option to help us achieve this goal. business as usual continues. As you’ll see, for measuring the success of our 2030 included in this production increase are For years, Textile Exchange has promoted Strategy: Climate+. more responsible – or preferred – options practices, standards, and resources that Will you join us in Creating Material for almost all fiber categories, but the benefit the climate. Adopting the Climate+ Change through the acceleration and volumes are still quite low in comparison to Strategy is a way to bring the urgent priority growth of Preferred Fiber and Materials? the conventional counterparts. of climate, , and carbon to the heart of our with preferred fibers and We have the solutions. Now is the time to materials. As a convener for significant accelerate the growth of preferred fiber change, we have seen first-hand what La Rhea Pepper and materials – this is a critical step to an industry of change-makers can do Managing Director, reducing the footprint on the planet that is when they pull together. An example of Textile Exchange being left by fiber and material production. this work can be seen in the success of

Back to Contents Cover Page Photo: Infinited Fiber • 2 What’s inside

Contents 42 Standards & Traceability 75 Key findings 5 Virgin Leather 43 Sustainability Standards 76 2018 Global fiber market 6 Recycled Leather and Leather Alternatives 44 Traceability Systems 77 Commitments to Preferred Leather & Alternatives 45 Impact 78 -based Natural Fibers 7

Cotton 8 Manmade Cellulosic Fibers 46 Mega Trends 79 Sustainable Development Goals 80 Virgin Cotton 9 Manmade Cellulosic Fibers 47 Circular Economy 81 Recycled Cotton 15 Virgin Manmade Cellulosic Fibers 48 Bio Economy 83 Commitments to Preferred Cotton 17 “Recycled” Manmade Cellulosic Fibers & Alternatives 55 84 Commitments to Preferred Manmade Cellulosic Fibers 56 Other Plant-Based Fibers 18 Methodology & Disclaimer 85 Synthetic Fibers 57 Animal-based Fibers & Materials 23 Polyester 58 Down & Feathers 24 Recycled Polyester 59 This report is interactive. Click a heading Virgin Down 25 Biobased Polyester 63 on this page to jump to that section, and Recycled Down 28 return here by clicking the contents icon Commitments to Preferred Polyester 65 Commitments to Preferred Down 29 located on the bottom left of each page. 66 30 Recycled Polyamide 67 Virgin Wool - Wool 31 Biobased Polyamide 69 Virgin Wool - 35 Commitments to Preferred Polyamide 70 Virgin Wool - Cashmere 36 Virgin Wool - Other Wool 37 Other Manmade Fibers 71 Recycled Wool 38 Recycled Fiber from Blended Textiles 72

Commitments to Preferred Wool 39 Recycled CO2 based fibers 73 Other Recycled or Biobased Fibers 74 40

• 3 Welcome to the 2019 Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report

At Textile Exchange we inspire and equip people to We are grateful to all contributors this year – not only accelerate sustainable practices in the textile value chain. for your valuable insights to our report but also for your With a goal of increasing the adoption of preferred fiber bold and brilliant contributions to the sustainability of our and materials we believe a transition to feedstocks that industry. We invite our readers to explore them all and minimize harm and maximize the positive impacts on decide how you can best contribute to the feedstock people and planet will provide a meaningful contribution challenge! to the Sustainable Development Goals and delivering on “the world we want”. A final point I’d like to make is the importance of common ground. We are a diverse and global Improving the sustainability credentials of textile community, yet despite our differences there are some feedstocks requires both and systemic things we all value, such as safe water, clean air, health thinking when it comes to business models and and community. The Paris Agreement gave us science- that result in a fairer and more sustainable based targets for decarbonization, and the Sustainable world. There will be multiple pathways to reaching our Development Goals give us a global agenda to unite vision and there will not be “one fiber fits all”. A diverse behind. Recognizing our inter-dependencies and the portfolio approach will enable us to collectively leverage finite resources we must share will no doubt dominate the positive attributes of different fiber programs and the next decade of our industry – it’s our number one job. enable us to create a regenerative and circular . We have ten years to meet the Sustainable Development Goals. In 2030, how will we be celebrating our Embracing diversity and recognizing the contribution contribution to a better world? of many fiber and materials programs and initiatives is the approach we have taken with our Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report. Our ambition is to showcase Liesl Truscott leadership and innovation in a way that inspires everyone and catalyzes change. There are exciting opportunities Director of European & Materials Strategy, within both virgin and recycled fibers and materials. Textile Exchange

Back to Contents • 4 Key findings

OTHER PLANT GLOBAL FIBER MARKET OVERVIEW COTTON DOWN WOOL BASED FIBERS

Global fiber production Global preferred cotton With the United States Responsible Down Responsible Wool doubled over the last 20 production increased Farm Bill, the year 2018 Standard (RDS) certified Standard (RWS) certified years to 107 million mt in from 10 percent in was an important year farms increased to 6,011 sites increased from 7 in 2018 and is expected to 2013/14 to 22 percent in for . in 2018. its launching year 2016 reach 145 million mt in 2017/18. to 322 in 2018. 2030. Read more about other plant- For the first time, global Read more about the different based fibers such as , hemp production volumes for A Draft Responsible Mohair Read more about the global virgin cotton initiatives and the and innovations with regard to Downpass and Traceable Down Standard has been launched in fiber market in this report here recycled cotton market in this the use of agricultural residues Standard (TDS) certified down April 2019 and Textile Exchange and about the increasing uptake report here. in this report here. are available. Read more about launched the Responsible of sustainability standards, preferred down, the different Cashmere Round Table (RCRT) traceability innovations and preferred down standards and in March 2019. Read more impact credits here. their number of certified sites in about preferred wool initiatives this report here. in this report here.

MANMADE GLOBAL GOALS LEATHER SYNTHETICS OTHER MANMADE FIBERS CELLULOSICS

The fashion industry can Global leather production Global manmade Market share of recycled Breakthroughs in play a key role in meeting sits around 7 million mt. cellulosic fiber (MMCF) polyester increased from development of fibers

the UN Sustainable Interest in Responsible production increased 8% in 2008 to around based on CO2 and in Development Goals Leather and leather from 5.9 million mt in 13% in 2018. fiber blends (SDGs) - important UN alternatives is growing. 2014 to 6.7 million mt in announced. initiatives for fashion 2018. Compared to 16% in 2017, this launched in 2018/19. In 2018, the Responsible is a short-term decline mainly Read more about 4 innovators caused by the Waste Leather Round Table (RLRT) With an annual growth rate of working on using CO2 to Read more about the SDGs, the was launched. Read more 15% between 2017 and 2022, Ban. The market shares of produce fibers, 6 innovators new UN initiatives and the new about preferred leather and 18 is expected to be the other recycled synthetics and working on fiber blend recycling online platform TextilesforSDGs. innovative leather alternatives in fastest growing MMCF. Read biosynthetics are still low. Read and further news and innovation org launched by Textile this report here. more about preferred MMCFs more about synthetic fibers in with regard to other manmade Exchange in 2018 in this report and 15 MMCF innovations in this report here. fibershere . here. this report here.

Back to Contents • 5 GLOBAL FIBER PRODUCTION IN 2018

Wool (~1%) 2018 Global fiber market Other plant-based (~5.7%) Down (~0.3%) Silk (~0.1%) The big picture Cotton (~24.4%)

In 2018, global fiber production was with a global production volume of around MMCFs (~6.2%) ~ 107 million mt Polyester (~51.5%) around 107 million mt. Fiber production 6.7 million mt and a market share of around has more than doubled in the last 20 6.2 percent in 2018. years and is expected to reach 145 Other synthetics (~5.7%) million mt in 2030 if business as usual Wool had a market share of around 1 Polyamide (~5%) continues. This equals an increase percent with a global production volume of of more than one third compared to a little over 1 million mt. today’s fiber production volume in the Other plant-based fibers including , 51+5+6+6+251F GLOBAL FIBER PRODUCTION (MILLION MT) next 10 years. , hemp and others had a market share Synthetic fibershave dominated the fiber of about 5.7 percent. Million mt in 2018 market since the mid 1990s when they 1998 49.84 Silk and down had market shares of less Silk (~0.16) MMCFs (~6.7) overtook cotton volumes. With around than 1 percent. Down (~0.27) Other synthetics (~6.1) 66.6 million mt of synthetic fibers, this 2008 75.68 Wool - other (~0.05) Polyamide (~5.4) fiber category made up approximately 62 The growth in fiber production has percent of the global fiber production in significant impacts on people and planet. Wool - sheep (~1.08) Polyester (~55.1) 2018 107.08 2018. There is a growing awareness of the urgent Cotton (~26.05) need for the more responsible use of 0 30 60 90 120 Polyester had a market share of resources and for decoupling growth from around 51.5 percent of total global fiber resource consumption. Innovation towards GLOBAL FIBER PRODUCTION (MILLION MT) production. More than 55.1 million mt of a circular economy and more responsible polyester was produced in 2018. resource use can be seen in almost all 150 145 Cotton is the second important fiber categories, however volumes are still 125 Silk fiber in terms of volume. With around low. Accelerating such initiatives will help 120 115 Down 26.05 million mt it had a market share of to reduce the overall fiber footprint on the Wool - other approximately 24.4 percent of global fiber planet. 96.80 production in 2018/19. 90 84.62 Wool - sheep 75.21 Cotton An increasingly important fiber category is 60.09 MMCFs manmade cellulosics fibers (MMCFs) 60 50.30 45.40 Other synthetics 41.34 35.53 Source: Textile Exchange compilation based on: CIRFS email correspondence, IVC , Tecnon Orbichem published by Marc on 30.27 Polyamide Atlas and their press releases, The Fiber Year data published by Oerlikon at ITMA 2019, Fiber Organon and Textile Outlook International 2011, 30 Polyester cited by Bhosale and Jadhav 2014 on texnote.blogspot.com, Lenzing data based on The Fiber Year and own estimates, ICAC, FAO, cn-down, DNFI based on IWTO and own estimates. Recycled natural fibers such as recycled cotton, recycled wool, recycled down and others are not TOTAL EST. included in this overview and would have to be added. The year 2018 includes the estimates for the cotton production of the ICAC calendar year 2018/19 to make it consistent with other reports. MMCFs and synthetic fibers volumes include fiber and filament. Please note that the percent market shares may differ to other sources because the Textile Exchange Global Fiber Market Overview includes other-plant, other 1975 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020 2025 2030 wool, down and silk - all fibers which are often not included in other global statistics. In general all global figures are estimates.

Back to Contents • 6 Plant-based Natural Fibers

Back to Contents • 7 Cotton

Photo: SEKEM

Back to Contents • 8 Virgin Cotton MARKET SHARE OF PREFERRED COTTON (‘000) Global preferred cotton production(1) 2012–13 2013–14 2014–15

From the niche to a market share of 22 and figures for Transitional Cotton were % % % percent in 2017/18, preferred cotton is not available in 2017/18. The preferred 5 9 9 gaining ground. cotton options included here align with all virgin cotton options included in the 2025 With a production of around 26.7 million 5+95+F 9+91+F 9+91+F Sustainable Cotton Challenge (see more 1,367 of 27,078 mt 2,298 of 26,224 mt 2,450 of 26,234 mt mt in 2017/18, cotton had a share of on page “Commitments to Preferred around 24.3 percent of the total fiber Cotton”)(1). 2015–16 2016–17 2017–18 market(2). All BCI cotton, including its equivalents The market share of preferred virgin ABRAPA, CmiA and myBMP, made % % % cotton increased from five percent of up around 19 percent of all cotton in 13 16 22 the total cotton production in 2012/13 2017/18 and thus the large majority of to 22 percent in 2017/18. This equals the 22 percent of preferred cotton in 13+87+F 16+84+F 22+78+F an increase in global production volume 2017/18. The BCI Standard, without 2,884 of 21,476 mt 3,778 of 23,075 mt 5,957 of 26,664 mt of preferred cotton from 1.4 million mt in equivalents, accounted for 10.53 (3) 2012/13 to 6 million mt in 2017/18 . percent, the Brazilian standard ABRAPA Preferred cotton Other cotton for 7.52 percent, CmiA for 2.17 percent, The preferred cotton figures reported and MyBMP for 0.86 percent of all cotton here include ABRAPA, BASF e3, Better in 2017/18. BCI aims to increase its PREFERRED COTTON FIBER PRODUCTION IN 2017–18 Cotton Initiative (BCI), Cleaner Cotton, market share to 30 percent of the global 6 million MT Cotton made in (CmiA), Fairtrade, cotton production by 2020. Fairtrade Organic, Field to Market, in ,000 mt and percent of cotton ISCC, myBMP, Organic, REEL Cotton, All other cotton programs together, ≈ 17 (0.06 %) Regenerative Cotton and Transitional including BASF e3, Cleaner Cotton, Fair Cotton. Field to Market and Regenerative Trade, ISCC, organic(4) and REEL cotton, Organic ≈ 181 (0.68 %) (ROC) cotton had a combined market share of 3 CmiA ≈ 579 (2.17 %) production in 2017/18 was still zero percent of all cotton in 2017/18. BCI equivalency ≈ 5,142 (19.28 %)

Tip: How to find out more about the different cotton programs.

Check out the Textile Exchange Sustainable Cotton Matrix to learn more about the 6 11 167 3 576 2,807 229 2,006 1.01 20 23 109 specific programs and what they cover. 0.02 % 0.04 % 0.63% 0.01 % 2.16 % 10.53% 0.86 % 7.52 % 0.00 % 0.08 % 0.09 % 0.41 %

Fair Trade Fair Trade OrganicOrganic CmiA OrganicCmiA BCI StandardMyBMP ABRAPA Cleaner CottonREEL BASF e3 ISCC (1) These figures do not include recycled cotton. Please see the chapter “Recycled Cotton” for more information on recycled cotton. (2) ICAC- Cotton: World Statistics 2019 and Textile Exchange compilation of total global fiber volume data (see Global“ Fiber Market”). (3) ICAC-Cotton: World Statistics 2019, standard owner data received by or from their publications; compilation by Textile Exchange - overlaps of standards excluded. (4) This includes certified to bioRe.

Back to Contents • 9 The production volume of preferred cotton is growing (in ‘000 metric tons).

Virgin Cotton ABRAPA BASF E3 2500 47 50 (1) A closer look at the preferred virgin 2,006 2000 36 40

1500 30 ABRAPA cotton production increased Cleaner Cotton production increased 1,190 23 1,128 from 753,608 mt in 2012/13 to around from 258 mt in 2012/13 to 1,006 mt in 1,042 1,043 1000 20 2 million mt in 2017/18. This equaled a 2017/18. This equaled 0.004 percent of 754 market share of 7.52 percent of all cotton all cotton produced in 2017/18. 500 9 10 grown in 2017/18. Around 75 percent of 0 0 all ABRAPA cotton was accounted for as Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) 12–13 13–14 14–15 15–16 16–17 17–18 12–13 13–14 14–15 15–16 16–17 17–18 BCI in 2017/18. production increased from 144,909 mt in 2012/13 to 578,562 mt in The BASF e3 cotton production was 2017/18. This equaled 2.17 percent around 22,852 mt in 2017/18. This of all cotton produced in 2017/18 and BETTER COTTON INITIATIVE CLEANER COTTON equaled 0.09 percent of all cotton equaled approx. 37 percent of all cotton 6,000 1.2 5,142 1.01 produced in 2017/18. production in Africa in 2017/18. Almost 4,500 0.9 all (97 percent) of the CmiA produced in 0.75 0.70 Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) cotton 3,262 2017/18 was also accounted for as BCI 0.61 3,000 0.60 production including equivalents equivalent. 2,505 0.6 increased from 665,789 mt in 2012/13 1,879 1,969 to 5.142 million mt in 2017/18. The Fair Trade cotton production reached 1,500 0.26 0.3 BCI Standard made up 54.59 percent 16,906 mt in 2017/18. This equaled 666 0 0 of all BCI cotton produced in 2017/18. 0.06 percent of all cotton produced in 17–18 12–13 13–14 14–15 15–16 16–17 12–13 13–14 14–15 15–16 16–17 The remaining 45.41 percent of BCI 2017/18. 17–18 cotton was produced according to the BCI equivalents ABRAPA, Cotton made Fairtrade Organic cotton production BCI Standard BCI eq. ABRAPA BCI eq. CmiA/SCS BCI eq. MyBMB in Africa and myBMP. BCI including was around 11,000 mt in 2017/18. 65 equivalents represented 19 percent of all percent of all Fairtrade cotton in 2017/18 COTTON MADE IN AFRICA FAIR TRADE cotton production in 2017/18. was also certified to an organic standard. 600 579 25 496 19 480 18 20 400 17 16 17 Tip: How to find out more about the different cotton programs. 15 360 320 15 out the Textile Exchange Sustainable Cotton Matrix to learn more about the 240 10 169 specific programs and what they cover. 145 120 5

0 0 12–13 13–14 14–15 15–16 16–17 17–18 12–13 13–14 14–15 15–16 16–17 17–18

(1) The data are based on information from the standard owners which we have received through email correspondence or from their . The production volumes reported here include the total volume produced per standard including equivalents and overlaps with other standards. Fair Trade Organic Fair Trade

Back to Contents • 10 Virgin Cotton A closer look at the preferred virgin cottons(1)

Field to Market certified cotton was not cotton that is certified according to bioRe. The production volume of preferred cotton is growing (in ‘000 metric tons). yet produced in 2017/18. For more information on organic cotton please see our Organic Cotton Market ISCC cotton production was 108,575 mt Report 2019. ISCC in 2017/18. This equaled 0.41 percent of MYBMP 120 all cotton produced in 2017/18. REEL cotton production has fluctuated 109 229 250 over the past few years with 20,000 90 200 myBMP cotton production increased mt grown in 2017/18. This equaled 138 from 54,000 mt in 2013/14 to 229,281 0.8 percent of all cotton produced in 150 mt in 2017/18. This equaled 0.86 60 2017/18. 100 percent of all cotton produced in 30 54 60 2017/18. myBMP is also accounted as Regenerative Cotton certified according 32 50 BCI equivalent. to the Regenerative Organic Certification 0 0 (ROC) was not yet produced in 2017/18. 12–13 13–14 14–15 15–16 16–17 17–18 12–13 13–14 14–15 15–16 16–17 17–18 Organic cotton production increased from 107,243 mt in 2012/13 to 180,871 Transitional Cotton is the cotton-in- mt in 2017/18. This equaled a market conversion to organic. 44,394 ha of land share of 0.68 percent of all cotton were in-transition land in 2017/18. For ORGANIC COTTON REEL produced in 2017/18. The organic cotton more details, please have a look at the 48 200 50 production volume includes the organic Organic Cotton Market Report. 181 160 37 40 30 118 117 112 30 120 107 107 24 20 Tip: How to find out more about the different cotton programs. 80 20 12 Check out the Textile Exchange Sustainable Cotton Matrix to learn more about the 40 10 specific programs and what they cover. 0 0 12–13 13–14 14–15 15–16 16–17 17–18 12–13 13–14 14–15 15–16 16–17 17–18

(1) The data are based on information from the standard owners which we have received through email correspondence or from their websites. The production volumes reported here include the total volume produced per standard including equivalents and overlaps with other standards.

Back to Contents • 11 Virgin Cotton Directory: Where to find preferred cotton across the globe(1)

Preferred cotton was grown in 30 countries in 2017/18. More than 95 percent of all preferred CENTRAL cotton was grown in ten countries: Brazil, China, , , USA, Australia, Côte d’Ivoire, KAZAKHSTAN TAJIKISTAN Cameroon, and . A closer look at Sub-Saharan Africa is provided on the next page. BCI: 1,000 mt Organic: 22,309 mt BCI: 18,000 mt Total preferred: 1,000 mt Fairtrade: 373 mt Organic: 8,999 mt Total preferred: 22,682 mt(2) Fairtrade: 361 Total preferred: 27,360 mt(2) TOP 10 COUNTRIES by volume of preferred cotton, together producing >95 percent of all preferred cotton: • Brazil - 2 million mt EAST AND SOUTH EAST ASIA • China - 1.2 million mt • Pakistan - 702,853 mt CHINA THAILAND

• India - 682,555 mt BCI: 1,188,000 mt Organic: 2 mt Organic: 38,586 mt Total preferred: 2 mt • USA - 273,940 mt REEL: 5,295 mt Total preferred: 1.2 million mt • Burkina Faso - 259,073 mt • Australia - 229,281 mt • Côte d’Ivoire - 140,879 mt • Cameroon - 106,880 mt SOUTH ASIA

• Turkey - 52,652 mt NORTH AMERICA PAKISTAN INDIA

USA BCI: 701,000 mt REEL: 1,775 mt BCI: 572,000 mt BCI: 245,000 mt Fairtrade: 77 mt Organic: 85,530 mt BASF e3: 22,852 mt Total preferred: 702,853 mt Fair Trade: 14,885 mt Organic: 5,082 mt REEL: 12,961 mt Cleaner Cotton: 1,006 mt (2) Total preferred: 273,940 mt Total preferred: 685,376 mt

SOUTH AMERICA MENA AUSTRALASIA

ARGENTINA BRAZIL GREECE ISRAEL TURKEY AUSTRALIA Organic: 2 mt Organic: 502 mt ABRAPA: 2,005,800 mt Organic: 287 mt Organic: 850 mt BCI: 12,000 mt BCI: 41,000 mt Total preferred: 2 mt REEL: 157 mt BCI (= ABRAPA): 1,542,000 mt MyBMP: 229,281 mt Total preferred: Total preferred: 850 mt Total preferred: 12,000 mt Organic: 11,652 mt 287 mt Total preferred: 229,281 mt Total preferred: 659 mt Total preferred: 2 million mt Total preferred: 52,652 mt

(1) email correspondence with cotton initiatives. (2) As the per country breakdown of Fairtrade Organic cotton was not available to the report production team at the launch of the report, this figure may include cotton that is certified to both, Fairtrade and organic, and thus a double- counting of this figure is possible. The total volume of preferred cotton per country would not change much though, as the share of Fairtrade Organic cotton compared to the total amount of preferred cotton is rather low.

Back to Contents • 12 Virgin Cotton Preferred Cotton Directory: Spotlight on Sub-Saharan Africa(1) MALI BURKINA FASO ETHIOPIA UGANDA

BCI: 6,000 mt CmiA: 258,136 mt CmiA: 11,232 mt CmiA: 1,233 mt Fairtrade: 148 mt Organic: 538 mt Organic: 60 mt Organic: 765 mt Organic: 77 mt Fairtrade: 399 mt Total preferred: 11,292 mt Fairtrade: 25 mt (2) Preferred cotton was grown in 14 countries in Sub-Saharan Africa in 2017/18. Total preferred: 6,225 mt(2) Total preferred: 259,073 mt(2) Total preferred: 2,023 mt The top 5 preferred cotton producing countries in Sub-Saharan Africa by volume in 2017/18 were Burkina Faso, Côte d’Ivoire, Cameroon, Zambia and Mozambique. Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) certified 37 percent of cotton production in Africa in 2017/18. TANZANIA

CmiA: 8,549 mt* Organic: 4,890 mt* TOP 5 SUB-SAHARAN COUNTRIES * incl. CmiA Organic: 3,015 mt Total preferred: 10,424 mt by volume of preferred cotton: • Burkina Faso - 259,073 mt • Côte d’Ivoire - 140,879 mt • Cameroon - 106,880 mt • Zambia - 34,370 mt Fairtrade: 638 mt • Mozambique - 27,420 mt Organic: 6 mt ZAMBIA Total preferred: 644 mt(2) CmiA: 34,370 mt Total preferred: 34,370 mt

CÔTE D’IVOIRE MOZAMIQUE

CmiA: 140,879 mt CmiA: 16,420 mt Total preferred: 140,879 mt BCI: 11,000 mt Total preferred: 27,420 mt

MADAGASCAR

GHANA BENIN CAMEROON SOUTH AFRICA BCI: 500 mt Total preferred: 500 mt CmiA: 863 mt Organic: 713 mt CmiA: 106,880 mt BCI: 11,000 mt Total preferred: 863 mt Total preferred: 713 mt Total preferred: 106,880 mt Total preferred: 11,000 mt

(1) email correspondence with cotton initiatives. (2) As the per country breakdown of Fairtrade Organic cotton was not available to the report production team at the launch of the report, this figure may include cotton that is certified to both, Fairtrade and organic, and thus a double- counting of this figure is possible. The total volume of preferred cotton per country would not change much though, as the share of Fairtrade Organic cotton compared to the total amount of preferred cotton is rather low.

Back to Contents • 13 Virgin Cotton Supporting the transition to preferred cotton

There are a number of initiatives pilot a novel and highly collaborative The for Sustainable UNIDO, the United Nations Industrial supporting the transition towards sourcing model for ethical fashion. In Textiles in launched the Development Organisation, launched a preferred cotton. Collaboration and 2019, the coalition published its first “Organic Cotton Sourcing Guide” in multi-stakeholder pilot project in Egypt in information are key for a successful Chetna Coalition Brand Impact Report. January 2019 in collaboration with C&A February 2019, to cotton farmers uptake of preferred cotton. Foundation, Organic Cotton Accelerator on the Better Cotton Initiative’s approach Cotton 2040 launched CottonUp, a new and Helvetas. to sustainable cotton production. Examples “Guide to Sourcing Sustainable Cotton” in UNIDO is also supporting organic cotton June 2018. This guide provides practical Project Delta: The aim of this 3-year production in Egypt through the project Textile Exchange held the first Regional information and resources to either start project (2019 to 2021) is to develop Organic Cotton Round Table in China CottonForLife, a private sector initiative of sourcing sustainable cotton or increase a joint sustainabilty measurement FILMAR. in March 2019 in collaboration with volumes. and reporting framework for different CottonConnect. In September 2018, agricultural focusing on The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol, a data the first Regional Organic Cotton Round CottonConnect is an enterprise with cotton and coffee. It is a collaboration collection, measurement and verification Table for West Africa was organized in a clear mission to transform the cotton between BCI, ICAC-SEEP, the procedure, was introduced by the Koudougou, Burkina Faso in collaboration industry for good. In August 2019, International Cotton and the Cotton Council in November 2019. It with Catholic Relief Services (CRS), Primark announced the expansion of Global Coffee Platform, funded by ISEAL. will document USA cotton production USDA and SICOT. Further round tables its collaboration with CottonConnect to practices and its environmental impact. have been held in Izmir focusing on train 160,000 cotton farmers in more Soil Health Institute (SHI), a USA The Cotton Council aims to benchmark Turkey, Egypt and Central Asia as well environmentally friendly farming methods based nonprofit organization, announced the cotton growers’ results against its as the Global Organic Cotton Round by 2022. in March 2019 that it will launch 2025 sustainability goals. Table held during the Textile Exchange “Healthy Soils for Sustainable Cotton,” Conference each year. Organic Cotton Accelerator is a multi- a continuous engagement project to West Africa Organic & Fairtrade stakeholder initiative focused on creating help USA cotton farmers increase their Cotton Coalition was launched at The C&A Foundation in partnership a prosperous organic cotton sector soil health. The initial pilot program, the International Cotton and Textile with the Brazilian NGO ESPLAR and which benefits everyone —from farmer to conducted during 2019, started in two Conference (SICOT) in Koudougou, World-Transforming Technologies (WTT) consumer. A recent project launched in USA states and will expand to another Burkina Faso in September 2018. launched the program “Meaningful 2019 is the Organic Cotton Traceability three states in 2020. This coalition aims to establish reliable Innovation for Family Farming - Pilot (see more in chapter on Traceability). market access for tens of thousands of Sustainable Cotton Challenge” at the end Solidaridad, Cotton made in Africa, smallholder farmer families in West Africa of 2018. The goal is to support simple The Organic Trade Association Danish Ethical Trading Initiative announced the official launching of its who are producing organic-fairtrade innovations that can help smallholder and MVO Nederland launched the cotton and other organic crops. organic cotton farmers to increase their Organic Fraud Prevention Solutions new project Bottom UP in June 2019 overall productivity and living standards. program in March 2019 to help to promote a sustainable cotton and Please see also Textile Exchange’s companies minimize or eliminate fraud garment value chain, from Ethiopian Organic Cotton Market Report 2019 for The Chetna Coalition (ChetCo) was in organic certification both inside and cotton to European consumers. more information. formed in 2013 with a shared vision to outside of the United States.

Back to Contents • 14 Recycled Cotton A closer look at recycled cotton

The Ellen MacArthur Foundation working group, with the ambition to estimates that less than 1 percent of all stimulate the adoption of PCRD in the is recycled back into clothing(1). market and grow demand. Over 20 At the same time, around 12.5 percent brands were trained on post-consumer of the global fashion market has made recycled and standardized PCRD a public commitment to circularity by fabric briefs were developed according to signing the Circular Fashion System their needs. These briefs were translated Commitment(2). by 10 global denim mills, 2 suppliers and 4 recyclers into 40 PCRD styles, with The recycling of cotton is one approach a recycled content of 7% - 40%, for the towards a more circular textile industry. participating brands to integrate into their Recycling of cotton can either be done collections. mechanically or chemically. Please note that chemically recycled cotton is Textile Exchange supports recycled covered in the chapter on manmade cotton by providing information through cellulosics since the end result is a market reports and the Material “manmade cellulosic”, not a “cotton”. Snapshot, the 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge, and focus sessions at its Collaboration is key in order to increase annual conferences, amongst other the transition to recycled cotton. A approaches. Textile Exchange has also number of initiatives are working to joined the Pilot as a support this goal. knowledge partner. Examples

The Alliance for Responsible Denim brought together representatives from the entire denim value chain in a pre- competitive collaboration to make the denim industry smarter and cleaner. Circle Economy, Made-By, and the Amsterdam of Applied Sciences joined forces to convene the Alliance for Responsible Denim (ARD) and drive the project forward. Circle Economy led the post-consumer recycled (PCRD)

Back to Contents Photo (right): Hilaturas Ferre S.A - Recover • 15 Recycled Cotton Supplier updates

Transitioning to a circular economy is key Takihyo, a Japanese company, launched in order to minimize the impacts of the Takihyo’s Circular System in 2019, which textile industry. The following suppliers of aims to eliminate the concept of waste. recycled cotton contribute to this mission. It includes two projects: a partnership with The New Denim Project (TNDP) Examples that mechanically recycles pre/post- Artistic Milliners is a Pakistan based consumer cotton materials into upcycled company producing post-consumer denim and cotton in Guatemala and recycled cotton. the No Waste project that mechanically recycles pre/post-consumer Belda Lloréns is a Spanish yarn based materials in Thailand. It also aims manufacturer offering recycled to minimize carbon footprint impact by branded EcoLife®. offering these closed loop systems in two different regions. Geetanjali Woollens is an Indian company that has been offering products Velener Textil GmbH has won the made from 100% post-consumer textile Discover Natural Fibres Initiative (DNFI) waste for 40 years (more in the Q&A). Innovation in Natural Fibres Award for 2018. Its WECYCLED® system Hilaturas Ferre has developed its addresses the issue that 30 percent of RECOVER range of yarns and threads yarn used in mills, mills which are produced with 100 percent and garment making remains unused. recycled fibers. These yarns contain a The pre-consumer recycled fibers are high percentage of mechanically recycled blended with virgin cotton into new yarn. cotton, which is blended with recycled polyester from PET .

Martex Fiber offers Eco2cotton® which Tip: How to find suppliers of stands for recycled fiber made from pre- recycled cotton. consumer fibers and clippings which are Check out the Textile Exchange sorted by color and blended with acrylic, database for a list of RCS and/or polyester or other fibers. GRS certified suppliers.

Back to Contents Photo (right): Takihyo • 16 Commitments to Preferred Cotton Examples NUMBER OF COMPANIES THAT SIGNED THE 2025 SUSTAINABLE COTTON PLEDGE The commitments of brands and retailers percent of the total volume being organic are key to accelerating the preferred cotton(2). The aim is to increase the cotton market. proportion of sustainable cotton to 70 2017 percent by 2025, with 20 percent being 39 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge organic cotton(2). 52 major brands and retailers and 3 2018 44 +2 suppliers have pledged to achieve 100 Cotton Pledges Against Forced Labor (1) 312 companies have signed the Uzbek percent more sustainable cotton by August 2019 52 +3 2025 through the 2025 Sustainable Cotton Pledge as per April 2019, Cotton Challenge as per August 2019. committing to end the practice of forced Examples are , C&A, IKEA, H&M, labor in the cotton sector in Uzbekistan. Brands/retailers Suppliers and Levi’s. The progress towards this More information here. commitment is measured through the 70 companies have signed the Turkmen Corporate Fiber and Materials Benchmark Cotton Pledge as per July 2019 to end (CMFB). A list of all companies is government-sponsored forced labor provided on the website where all in Turkmenistan’s cotton sector. More brands/retailers and suppliers can submit information here. PARTNERSHIP FOR SUSTAINABLE TEXTILES - SUSTAINABLE COTTON TARGET commitments. Circular Fashion System Commitment Commitments to Organic Cotton As of July 2019, 90 companies 2020 2025 There are a number of brands which representing 12.5 percent of the global have publicly committed to use fashion market have signed the Circular 100% organic cotton. Examples are Fashion System Commitment, a call to EILEEN FISHER, Mantis World, Nudie, action by the Global Fashion Agenda. 35% 70% SkunkFunk, and Stella McCartney. The companies have committed to take Commitments by the German action on one or more of four immediate Partnership for Sustainable Textiles action points - one being to increase the (3) The Partnership members have jointly use of post-consumer recycled fibers . Post-consumer recycled cotton is one of 10+25+65F 20+50+30F agreed to use at least 35 percent the fibers contributing to these targets. sustainable cotton by 2020, with 10 Organic Other Sustainable Cotton

(1) These initiatives include, *ABRAPA, *BASF e3, Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), *Cleaner Cotton, Cotton made in Africa (CmiA), Fairtrade, *Fairtrade Organic, *Field to Market, *ISCC, *myBMP, Organic, Recycled cotton (that is certified to an independently verifiable standard such as the Global Recycled Standard (GRS) or the Recycled Claim Standard (RCS), *REEL Cotton, *Regenerative Cotton and *Transitional Cotton. *Denotes initiatives being Benchmarked starting in 2019. (2) This includes GOTS, NATURTEXTIL IVN, OCS, the bioRe Social & Environmental Standard and all the organic standards part of the IFOAM Family of Standards. (3) Global Fashion Agenda - Commitment Website, accessed on 15 September 2019.

Back to Contents • 17 Other Plant-

Based Fibers add

Photo: xxx Photo: Scot Nelson - Public Domain Picture

Back to Contents • 18 Other Plant-based Fibers OTHER PLANT-BASED FIBERS (1) Flax, hemp, and beyond

Other plant-based fibers include a had the second largest market 8+ million households diversity of vegetable fibers such share of other plant-based fibers with 6 as jute, , coir, flax, , around 20 percent(3). Coir is the fiber , kapok, abaca and hemp. It extracted from the husks of . It million mt are estimated to be involved in the production of natural is estimated that more than eight is used to produce home textiles such plant-based fibers such as million households are involved in as floor , doormats, brushes and jute, coir, flax and hemp.(2) the production of these other natural . plant-based fibers(1). The global flax fiber and production With a global production volume of in 2018 is estimated at around 780,554 Jute,57+ Kenaf & Allied Fibers Coir Flax fiber18+5421F and tow, ex mill Other, not specified elsewhere around 6 million mt, the market share mt(3). Processed flax, also called linen, is Sisal, Hennequen & similar hard fibers Bast fibers Ramie Kapok Abaca Hemp fiber and tow of these other plant-based fibers was used for a variety of products including around 5.7 percent of the total global home textiles and apparel. fiber production volume in 2018(2). Hemp had a estimated global production OTHER PLANT-BASED FIBER PRODUCTION (MILLION MT) (1) Jute had the largest market share of volume of around 59,817 mt in 2018(3). 7 all other plant-based fibers with around The bast-fiber hemp is used in various 6.31 6.23 6.25 6.28 6.19 6.18 50–60 percent(3). Similar to hemp, flax industries including home textiles and 6.02 6.03 6.07 6.07 and ramie, it is a bast-fiber. Jute is used apparel. 6 5.67 to make twines, , matting, and packaging materials but also for home Further plant-based fibers include sisal, 5 textiles such as curtains and . hennequen, ramie, kapok and abaca. 4

3

2

1

0 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018e

(1) DNFI Website - Natural fibers production reaches 30 million mt, published on 29 July 2017. Jute Coir Flax Fiber and Tow Sisal Manila (2) Textile Exchange based on FAOStat and total global production volumes compiled by Textile Exchange (see Global Fiber Market). Ramie Hemp Other Bast Kapok Agave (3) based on FAOStat.

Back to Contents • 19 Other Plant-based Fibers Hemp

2018 was an important year for the these fibers (more in theHUB ). hemp industry. The United States Farm Bill, signed into law in December Earth Alive Clean Technologies, a 2018, makes the growing of hemp in the leading Canadian Clean-Tech company, USA much easier as with less announced the launch of the Clean than 0.3% THC is now considered an Fiber Initiative in 2018, a collaborative agricultural crop rather than a controlled research project aimed to improve substance. It is expected that the hemp the production of natural fiber crops in industry will grow as a result of this Canada and around the world. Earth regulatory change. Hemp for fibers has Alive currently has hemp trials underway mainly been grown in China but there are with conventional and organic growers in also emerging initiatives in other countries Canada, and the USA. including the USA. Eko-Terre, launched in 2010 by Logistik Examples Unicorp, announced that it will soon introduce a line of hemp-based textile 9Fiber is a USA based company fibers and fabrics. The main goal of this dedicated to delivering innovative, divison is to process Canadian hemp responsible and sustainable solutions straw into fibre. to cannabis and hemp biomass waste recycling. The 9Fiber patented solution™ Hempfortex is a main supplier of converts unwanted waste material hemp textiles. This vertically integrated from the cannabis and industrial hemp company uses hemp grown in China and industries into usable bast fiber and hurd manufactures yarn, knitted and woven to be used in a wide variety of products fabrics made from hemp. including fibers for the textile industry. TS , a USA based t- Bastcore is a USA based hemp company, is planning to build a fully processing company that is working on transparent and trackable hemp supply the development of textile grade hemp chain in the USA for textile-grade hemp fiber. processing.

Circular Systems’ Agraloop Bio- Research is underway into hemp and jute refinery is currently developing as feedstock for manmade cellulosics BioFibre™, fibers made entirely from food (see Manmade Cellulosics Chapter) and crop residues. Oil- hemp is one of even biobased leather alternatives (see the feedstocks that can be utilized for Leather Alternatives Chapter).

Back to Contents Photo (right): Maja Dumat - CC BY 2.0 • 20 Other Plant-based Fibers Flax

Around 80–85 percent of the flax used Circular Systems` Agraloop Bio- for fibers is grown in . France refinery is currently developing is the largest producer of flax fibers. BioFibre™, fibers made entirely from food European flax is cultivated in a wide crop residues. Oil-seed flax is one of the coastal band stretching from the South feedstocks that can be utilized for their of Normandy in Northern France through fibers (more in theHUB ). Belgium and the Netherlands. Other key flax fiber producing countries are Belarus, Depestele Group is a vertically Russia, Ukraine, and China. The global integrated specialist of flax , flax fiber and tow production in 2018 cultivated in partnership with 650 flax is estimated at around 780,554 mt(1). farmers in France, to scutching, hackling, A small percentage of flax is certified and textiles for technical uses. All organic. According to estimates of CELC, these steps are certified European Flax®, the European Confederation of Linen and tracing fibre grown in Western Europe. Hemp, around 0.5 percent of the flax JINDI - GOTS certified Zhaosu Jindi Flax (2) grown in Europe is certified organic . Co., Ltd. was founded in 2007 and is Examples one of the major manufacturers of dew- and organic flax fiber in China. Technologies Inc is a bast fiber firm based in Libeco is a Belgian-based company that Canada that develops IP protected collaborates with a group of growers of enhancements for hemp, flax, and organic flax in France and processes this other bast fibers. In 2016, Bast Fibre flax into organic linen products. Technologies Inc. purchased the TERRE DE LIN is a French Intellectual Property and other assets specialized in producing textile flax (linen) of CRAiLAR Fiber Technologies from seed to fiber. With 650 farmers Inc., a company focused on creating and 240 employees, the cooperative processes, know-how and to produces 15 percent of flax globally. refine flax and hemp fiber for use in textile applications. The enzymatic process Van de Bilt is a GOTS certified company developed by CRAILAR transforms flax based in the Netherlands that contracts into soft fibers which are functionally flax growers in France and Netherlands equivalent to manmade cellulosics. to produce fiber flax, processing it with its scutching and heckling lines. (1) based on FAOStat, 2018 production volume estimated similar to the 2017 figure. (2) CELC 2019, email correspondence.

Back to Contents Photo (right):European Flax ® • 21 Other Plant-based Fibers Nettle, kapok, and others

There is an emerging interest in the chapter on Manmade Cellulosic Fibers. use of plant-based specialty fibers If depolymerization is used to process such as nettle, lotus, kapok and them, they are listed as biosynthetics. others. The use of agricultural residues is also gaining much attraction. Examples

Nettle, kapok, and others Circular Systems` Agraloop Bio- refinery is currently developing Further plant-based fibers used in the BioFibre™, fibers made entirely from textile industry include nettle, kapok, food crop residues. The Agraloop™ lotus, and others. can utilize a range of feed stocks - apart from oil-seed hemp and oil-seed Examples: flax - for example rice straw as well as FLOCUS™ produces yarn blends and , tree trunks and filling made with kapok. sugar cane can be used. In 2019, Agraloop presented first prototype fibers, Himalayan Wild Fibers extracts textile yarn, and fabrics (more in the HUB). fiber from a nettle plant that grows wild in the mountain forests of the Himalayas Spinnova is a Finnish R&D company (more in the HUB and Q&A). developing an innovative mechanical approach to produce a cellulosic Samatao Lotus Textiles extracts the fiber. In the spring of 2019, Spinnova fibers from the lotus plant. started operations on their industrial scale pilot line in . Spinnova and Agricultural residues Fortum introduced and showcased the first prototype products made from The use of crop residues such as rice agricultural residues, namely wheat straw, straw, pineapple leaves, banana tree at the Textile Exchange Sustainability trunks and sugar cane bark - is another Conference in Vancouver in October emerging field. Please note that the 2019 (more about Spinnova in the HUB examples listed here do not chemically and Q&A). dissolve the into nor do they depolymerize them. If the same plants are dissolved into pulp, they are listed in the

Back to Contents Photo (right): Bernard Dupont, CC BY-SA 2.0 • 22 Animal-based Fibers & Materials

Back to Contents • 23 Down & Feathers

Photo: US AID - Public Domain Picture

Back to Contents • 24 Virgin Down Production facts and figures(1)

The global down and feather Traceable Down Standard production volume is estimated at around 270,000 mt per year(1). The number of Global Traceable Down >270,000 mt 70–90% 75–90% Standard (TDS) certified farms increased of down and feathers produced in from ducks, 70–90 percent of the down production from 233 in 2017 to 414 in 2018. The produced globally China rest from geese comes from China(1). The global down number of certified processing sites and feather market is highly fragmented increased from 15 in 2017 to 17 in with many small and medium producers. 2018(3). More than 273 mt of down have RDS been certified according to the TDS in (NO. OF SITES) Around 75–90 percent of the down 2018.(3) This is equivalent to an estimated 8000 comes from ducks, most other down 0.1 percent of the total down production (2) comes from geese . 6,011 volume in 2018. 6000 Increasing concerns about the treatment Downpass Standard farms of animals have led to the development 4000 3,640 of animal welfare standards for down. The number of Downpass certified farms processing sites 2,121 Key standards include the Responsible increased from 4,500 in 2017 to 5,185 in 2000 1,666 Down Standard (RDS), the Global 904 2018. The number of certified processing no farm 539 696 239 Traceable Down Standard (TDS) and sites increased from 209 in 2017 to 337 data 108 0 Downpass. These standards award and in 2018. Due to a change in the standard 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 ensure that there is: system, a comparison with previous • no live-plucking years is not possible. DOWNPASS TDS • no force-feeding (NO. OF SITES) (NO. OF SITES) The global Downpass certified down • broader animal welfare (depending on production volume in 2018 is estimated 6,000 500 standard) 5,185 at around 3,053 mt. This is equivalent 414 4,503 Responsible Down Standard to an estimated 1.1 percent of the 4,800 400 total down production volume in 2018. The Responsible Down Standard (RDS) 3,600 300 farms Out of this, around 2,653 mt are used is gaining importance. The number of 233 for Downpass certified bedding, while processing sites RDS certified farms increased to 6,011 2,400 200 around 400 mt are used for Downpass in 2018, while the number of certified certified outdoor and fashion products. 1,200 100 processing sites increased to 904 (from 209 337 15 17 108 in 2014). 0 0 2017 2018 2017 2018

(1) based on figures from cn-down.com and FAO. (2) based on FAO database and conversations with industry experts. (3) one supply chain did not report the volume of certified down in 2018.

Back to Contents • 25 Virgin Down Tip: How to find suppliers of preferred down. Directory: Where to find preferred down across the globe Check out the Textile Exchange database or contact NSF or Downpass for a list of certified suppliers. Preferred down was produced on thousands of farms in 13 countries in 2018. Major production regions for preferred down are China and Eastern Europe including Poland and Ukraine.

RDS certified farms: WESTERN EUROPE EASTERN EUROPE POLAND HUNGARY • China: 4,417 (= 73.48 % UK IRELAND FRANCE UKRAINE RUSSIA Downpass: 284 RDS: 1,155 RDS: 311 • Poland: 1,155 (=19.21 %) RDS: 34 Downpass: 146 Downpass: 946 Downpass: 190 Downpass: 263 Downpass: 143 RDS: 15 • Hungary: 311 (= 5.17 %) NETHERLANDS GERMANY TDS: 243 TDS: 66 • Netherlands: 72 (= 1.2 %) RDS: 72 Downpass: 616 • UK: 34 (= 0.57 %) • Russia: 15 (= 0.25 %) • Taiwan: 7 (= 0.12 %) Total: 6,011

EAST AND SOUTH EAST ASIA NORTH AMERICA CHINA Downpass certified farms: US RDS: 4,417 TDS: 105 • China: 2,576 (= 49.68 %) Downpass: 2,576 • Ukraine: 946 (= 18.24 %) TAIWAN • Germany: 616 (= 11.88 %) Downpass: 3 • France: 284 (= 5.48%) • Poland: 263 (= 5.07 %) • Russia: 190 (= 3.66%) TDS certified farms: AUSTRALASIA • Ireland: 146 (= 2.74 % AUSTRALIA • Hungary: 143 (= 2.76 %) • Poland: 243 (= 58.70 %) Downpass: 22 • Australia: 22 (= 0.42%) • US: 105 (= 25.36 %) • Taiwan: 3 (= 0.06 %) • Hungary: 66 (= 15.94 %) Total: 5,185 Total: 414

Back to Contents • 26 Virgin Down Key updates

Standard Updates January 2017. The new version stands transparency tool. The tool has originally Other updates for the exclusion of feathers and down been launched with five partner brands Responsible Down Standard (RDS) from live animals, material from foie gras in 2015. There are a number of initiatives working production as well as rearing control. towards preferred down. Collaboration In July 2019, Textile Exchange released Downlite is a major USA-based and information are key for a successful the RDS 3.0. This new version is the You can find more information on the standard’s website(2). manufacturer of down and synthetic filled uptake of preferred down. result of an in-depth multi-stakeholder bedding products sold to retailers and review process. It signifies the most Global Traceable Down Standard . Additionally, Downlite supplies Four Paws International is a UK-based substantial revision since the 2014 (TDS) down fills to outerwear and sleeping international animal welfare organization. launch of the standard. Key changes brands and manufacturers. Downlite is In 2014, the organization invited leading to the standard include mandatory The TDS has been launched by NSF part of the RDS International Working outdoor clothing and equipments brands euthanasia for sick or injured birds, in January 2015. It is based on the Group and offers RDS, TDS and Bluesign to take on the “Cruelty Free Down mandatory stunning before slaughter, “100% Traceable Down Standard” that certified down. Challenge”. Today, Four Paws is actively stronger criteria related to handling, Patagonia originally developed as internal involved in the Responsible Down record keeping and training of workers, standard. Patagonia then approached Navarpluma, a down and feather Standard International Working Group to observation of parent farms in industrial NSF to refine their internal standard into company based in Spain, is part of strengthen the animal-welfare criteria of goose supply chains and more. You can an independent global down standard. the RDS International Working Group the standard. find more about the review process and You can find more information on the and offers RDS and recycled down. new version on the standard`s website(1). standard’s website(3). In September 2019, Navarpluma and IDFL is the world’s largest down and Applied DNA Sciences announced a feather testing institute with laboratories in Downpass Supplier Updates partnership for a DNA based traceability the USA, Europe, China, and Taiwan. In May 2019, the member companies of The number of certified down suppliers is project (see also chapter on Traceability). Downpass e.V. decided not to continue increasing. Sustainable Down Source is a USA- with the brand “DOWNPASS 2017”, but Examples based company with the vision to representing the Zero Tolerance Standard be “the most innovative, ethical and from now on as “DOWNPASS”. The Allied Feather and Down is a USA solution for your bulk down needs”. expiring modular version will be available based down and feather company Sustainable Down Source supports the as “Downpass 2016” in the transition founded in 1987. Allied is part of the RDS RDS International Working Group and period. The first version of the Downpass International Working Group and offers offers RDS certified down. In June 2019, standard was completed in June 2016. RDS certified down. In spring 2019, Sustainable Down Source announced A new version of the standard was Allied announced that the 100th brand its new QR code based system to trace developed in autumn 2016 in a multi- has joined its proprietary TrackMyDown. down through a code on the product stakeholder process and valid from com and supply chain hangtags (more in the Q&A).

(1) RDS, email correspondence, more info on http://responsibledown.org. (2) Downpass, email correspondence, more info on https://www.downpass.com. (3) NSF, email correspondence, more info on http://www.nsf.org/newsroom/nsf-global-traceable-down-standard-explained.

Back to Contents • 27 Recycled Down Key updates

It is estimated that in Germany alone, (GRS), and the SCS Recycled Claim. the bed feather processing industry Further information on these standards is generates around 950 mt of waste provided in the chapter on “Sustainability feathers(1). Down recycling is an Standards”. important approach to reduce resource consumption and address the waste Examples feathers. Recycled down can be from The USA based company Downlite pre- or post-consumer sources. launched a new innovation called Re/ Recycling of these materials not only charged down in 2017, GRS certified helps to divert waste from and post-consumer recycled down and low-value pathways but also to save feathers as part of their Sustainovation resources such as energy and water initiative. Downlite also offers RDS and used in down production. TDS certified down.

Support organization The Spanish company Navarpluma offers 100 recycled down branded The European Outdoor Group (EOG) NEOKDUN® originating from the recycling published the Recycled Down Sourcing of bedding/apparel finished products that Guide in 2018.This document was have reached the end of their product life originally written in 2015, when recycled cycle. It also offers RDS certified down. down was first significantly mentioned as a potential suitable alternative to virgin Re:Down is a company specialized in down for outdoor applications. However, the down recycling made from post- it then lay dormant for the best part of consumer products. Re:Down produce a two years, until renewed interest in the garden from feathers that do not use of recycled materials encouraged the make the grade (more in the Q&A). EOG to update and make this document Rohdex is a supplier of down certified to available in the public domain. RDS and Downpass as well as recycled Standards down certified to the GRS.

Standards used for recycled down Japanese company Toray announced a include the Recycled Content Standard collaboration with Uniqlo in September (RCS), Global Recycled Standard 2019 to reclaim and recycle down from apparel collected in Uniqlo stores.

(1) European Down and Feather Association (EDFA)

Back to Contents Photo (right): NAU • 28 Commitments to Preferred Down Examples

The number of apparel, outdoor and Gucci’s sustainability principles state that From the Fall 2017 product season, all From Fall 2017, Tommy Hilfiger home textile companies that have the supplier and its sub-supplier ensure Patagonia’s virgin down was certified confirmed that all their down products publicly committed to preferred down is that feathers or downs are RDS or TDS to the advanced certification level of the is certified to the Responsible Down increasing every year. Over 40 leading certified or that they adopt, maintain and Global Traceable Down Standard (Global Standard. More information here. brands and retailers have made public verify a sourcing policy that ensures there TDS). More information here. commitments to preferred down. has been no live plucking and they don’t Varner is committed to 100 percent RDS derive from animals that have undergone Prana is committed to only source RDS down. More information here. Examples certified down. More informationhere . force-feeding during the reproductive VF Corporation has the goal to source All down used by Arc’teryx is certified to phase of their lives. More information Ralph Lauren publicly committed to 100 percent of our goose down in the Responsible Down Standard (RDS). here. 100% Responsible Down Standard or accordance with the Responsible Down More information here. Starting with its fall/winter collection Traceable Down Standard certified down Standard (RDS) by the end of 2019. by 2023. More information here. More information here. Since fall 2016, all of the down and 2016, HUGO BOSS exclusively uses feathers in C&A’s products are RDS- down that is produced without live The North Face started using RDS- Since 2017, 100% of the down sourced certified. More informationhere . plucking or forced feeding and has certified down in Fall 2015 and since Fall by Volcom is RDS certified. More documented origins. More information 2016 they have only purchased RDS- information here. Columbia has committed to 100 here. certified down. More informationhere . percent RDS certified down and feathers throughout its global line (excluding its H&M only accepts down from farms that Japanese subsidiary). More information have been RDS certified and recycled here. down since 2015. More information here. It’s exciting to see that the collective use of the RDS across the All down used in Deckers branded 100% of the down in Kathmandu industry is effectively promoting positive animal welfare conditions and products is certified in accordance with products is certified under the (1) the RDS. More information here. Responsible Down Standard. More “ traceability in the down supply chain at such a large scale. information here. Eileen Fisher is committed to 100% RDS certified down and feathers. More All down sourced by Marks & Spencer James Rogers, must be certified by RDS or TDS information here. Senior Sustainability Manager, standard, or RCS/GRS certified recycled North Face Esprit ensures that 100 percent of down. More information here. their down and feathers are sourced according to the Responsible Down Norrona only uses down that is RDS Standard. More information here. certified or recycled. More information here.

(1) North Face website 2019

Back to Contents • 29 Wool

Photo: The New Zealand Merino Company Limited

Back to Contents • 30 Virgin Wool - Sheep Wool PREFERRED SHEEP WOOL RESPONSIBLE WOOL STANDARD Production facts and figures(1) MARKET SHARE IN 2018 (NO. OF SITES)(1) 400

322 With an annual production volume of in the and protection of the 300 more than one million mt, wool is the sheep grazing land. ~1.08 million mt 234 most used animal-based fiber. ZQ supplied over 11,000 mt of ZQ 200 While the global wool production has certified wool fiber grown under the ZQ been declining over the years, the certification program (ZQ Merino and 1+1+97F 100 market share of initiatives such as the ZQ Premium Wool) to partners globally Organic (<1%) RWS (<1%) ZQ (~1%) Unspecified (97%) 7 Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) and in 2018. This equaled around 1 percent ZQ is increasing. of the global wool production in 2018 2016 2017 2018 and included around 30 mt of ZQ wool The number of RWS certified sites sold under the RWS. The ZQ wool was increased from 7 in 2016 to 322 in sourced from around 550 ZQ certified (1) 2018 . The 322 RWS certified sites in growers, including 92 who sold their wool 2018 included 148 units with supply under the RWS(2). chain scope. In 2018, 278 farms were GLOBAL SHEEP WOOL PRODUCTION (MILLION MT) certified to the RWS, either individually or Organic wool, while niche, is fairly well as part of a farm group (see next page for established. Organic wool makes up 2.0 1.93 details)(1). less than one percent of the global wool production(3). Since the RWS only launched in 1.49 1.5 2016, the market share is estimated at 1.36 1.23 below one percent of the global wool 1.08 1.06 1.08 production. 1.0 The RWS ensures animal welfare (no mulesing and a broader concept of animal welfare based on the Five 0.5 Freedoms of animals) and best practices

0 1990 1992 1994 1996 1998 2000 2002 2004 2006 2008 2010 2012 2014 2016 2018

(1) This figures does not include the number of the 92 ZQ growers in New Zealand that sold their wool under the RWS in 2018. (2) ZQ, email correspondence. (3) based on FIbL, email correspondence regarding the number of organic sheep in 2012–2016; compared to total number of sheep based on FAOStat database; 2018 figures estimated similar to previous years.

Back to Contents • 31 Virgin Wool - Sheep Wool Tip: How to find suppliers of preferred wool Directory: Where to find wool certified to the Check out the Textile Exchange database for certified suppliers of RWS, OCS and Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) recycled wool, the Responsible Wool Standard Brand Sourcing Guide for support related to the RWS and the GOTS database for GOTS certified wool suppliers. Responsible Wool was produced on 278 farms in 6 countries in 2018. Major production countries for Responsible Wool in 2018 were South Africa, Uruguay, , and Australia.

RWS Certified Farms • South Africa: 133 • Uruguay: 69 • Argentina: 39 • Australia: 31 • New Zealand: 5(1) • USA: 1 Total: 278(1)

NORTH AMERICA USA Farms: 1

SOUTH AMERICA AFRICA AUSTRALASIA

ARGENTINA URUGUAY SOUTH AFRICA AUSTRALIA NEW ZEALAND Farms: 39 Farms: 69 Farms: 133 Farms: 31 Farms: 5(1)

(1) This figures does not include the number of the 92 ZQ growers in New Zealand that sold their wool under the RWS in 2018. (2) ZQ, email correspondence. (3) based on FIbL, email correspondence regarding the number of organic sheep in 2012–2016; compared to total number of sheep based on FAOStat database; 2018 figures estimated similar to previous years.

Back to Contents • 32 Virgin Wool - Sheep Wool Supplier update

Preferred wool is based on the tradition of sheep and wool production as commitment and support of leading part of their ranching operation. suppliers. Lanas Trinidad is a traditional wool Examples company with extending back to 1916. Jointly owned by Chargeurs and BKB is a wool broker operating in South the Otegui Family, it is the main producer Africa and Lesotho that provides a and exporter of combed wool tops in range of services to the producers. BKB Uruguay. Lanas Trinidad is operating an suppliers RWS certified wool. RWS farm group that is rapidly growing.

Chargeur Luxury Materials is an Ovis21 is a network of more than 160 internationally operating company that producers, technicians and professionals supplies merino wool fibers from RWS in Argentina, Chile and Uruguay who certified farms. seek, through constant innovation,to Fox and Lillie is a 100 percent Australian change the paradigm of farming from family-owned and operated agribusiness, extractive to regenerative. The group founded in 1948. Fox & Lillie is one of the works with over one million sheep. largest buyers and exporters of Australian Ovis21 is part of Land to Market and wool and a major buyer of wool from supplies RWS certified wool. other countries. Fox and Lillie operates Shaniko Wool Company was an RWS farm group and is rapidly established to continue the work of expanding. their family ranch (Imperial Stock Ranch) Fuhrmann, part of Gschneider Group and others like them, in supporting the and based in Argentina, is managing 11 use of wool. At the request of a leading farms currently and 9 million kg outdoor recreation brand, Shaniko has of wool per year. Fuhrmann is a supplier been involved with the RWS since 2015. of organic and RWS certified wool. They were a pilot audit site in 2015 and the following year, were the first ranch in Imperial Stock Ranch, established the world to receive RWS certification. 1871, is located in the USA, and has Working with additional ranches been raising sheep, cattle, grains and hay and scaling the effort, Shaniko Wool for more than 147 years. The ranch was Company is an approved USA Group the first ranch in the USA certified under supplier of RWS wool (more information the RWS. Having sold their wool textile in the Q&A). business, the ranch continues the long

Back to Contents Photo (right): Paul Thacker, Shaniko Wool Company - Jeanne and Lambs • 33 Virgin Wool - Sheep Wool Standards and other updates

Standard and initiatives updates practices and caring for the land so that Four Paws and Human Other news it may be passed to future generations. International published a position The Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) of New Zealand has been statement opposing steining / freeze A severe drought in Australia hit the 2.0 revision process was launched inspected and assessed according to branding in September 2019. Both Australian wool producers. The drought in November 2018. In autumn 2018, the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS). are against any form of is having and will continue to have effects the first RWS certified products hit the Wools of New Zealand has also worked breech mutilation or modification. This on the availability and price of wool. The market. with the EU Ecolabel to develop the includes mulesing (the removal of via wool production is expected to decrease as farmers are destocking; farmers are Ovis21 combines a Grassland world’s 1st on-farm accreditation system cutting with shears) and steining (the use for greasy wool. of liquid nitrogen). also doing supplemental feeding which is Regeneration and Sustainability Standard having an impact on price. with the RWS. Ovis21 is a network Four Paws also published the guide Fibershed is a California based ‘Transitioning Away from Mulesed of more than 160 producers in seven organization which develops regional fiber China banned the importation of wool Argentine provinces as well the south Sheep Wool’ in 2019 to support brands and sheep from South Africa due to systems that build soil and protect the and retailers on the why and how. In of Chile and Uruguay. The network health of the biosphere. Fibershed is the a Foot and Mouth Disease outbreak from includes over one million sheep. Ovis September 2019, Four Paws launched January to May 2019. initiator of the Climate-Beneficial™ wool the Wear it Kind Campaign by asking 21 promotes a of grassland program which is grounded in an effort regeneration and biodiversity so the land people to pressure brands to phase out to scale the implementation of Carbon mulesing. It also helped to review the will sustain people, their businesses Farming to create carbon sinks. The and communities. Their Grassland renewed Good On You scoring system wool of the participants is marketed as for animal welfare. Regeneration and Sustainability Standard Climate-Beneficial™ wool. and the Rangeland Health Index covers The Legislative Council of New South these ambition. To cover the animal Mulesing and steining (NSW), Australia, has reaffirmed welfare as well, Ovis21 has adopted the its ambition to introduce a bill through Responsible Wool Standard (RWS). Australian Wool Innovation (AWI) published the report “Planning for a Non- which it will become a requirement for ZQ invested 1.6 million NZD in Research Mulesed Merino Enterprise” in 2018. This all sheep subjected to mulesing be & Development over the last 2 years. ZQ report outlines the key learnings from administered adequate pain relief in wool from New Zealand is also certified to a number of wool-growing enterprises advance. the RWS. that have moved to a non-mulesed New Zealand has become the first-wool enterprise. It is intended to assist other producing country to officially ban sheep Wools of New Zealand is owned by woolgrowers in their consideration and the people who grow the wool – farming mulesing. The new regulation has been planning to also move to non-mulesed effect since October 1, 2018. families committed to sustainable Merino.

Back to Contents • 34 Virgin Wool - Mohair Overview

Mohair is the of the angora (not The Responsible Mohair Standard is the to be confused with the evolution of an increasing importance and which produces ). Around demand for an independent international half of the global mohair is produced standard. South Africa. Examples In 2018, the animal-rights organization PETA published a video campaign on Mohair South Africa is the organization animal welfare violations related to mohair that represents the South African mohair production. Several brands banned the industry. It has been actively involved use of mohair as a result or are looking in drafting the new Responsible Mohair for preferred mohair alternatives. Standard.

Standards Katharine Hamnett, London-based fashion designer, has partnered with In response to requests from Steiff Schulte, the 120-year-old teddy stakeholders, a draft standard for mohair bear company, to produce Bio-. The production has been developed. The new “bio-fur” is made from mohair fiber Draft Responsible Mohair Standard is trapped in a cotton backing fabric. It is based on the existing Responsible Wool an alternative to synthetic faux fur and Standard which was released in 2016. biodegradable. The mohair is sourced The draft for the stakeholder consultation from farms in South Africa that adhere was launched in April 2019. to the Sustainable Mohair Production Guidelines. The South African mohair industry has been governed by its own Sustainable Mohair Production Guidelines since 2009. These industry guidelines have been developed, and regularly revised, by the South African Mohair Growers Association. They provided background information on the principles, criteria and indicators supported by self-assessment checklists.

Back to Contents Photo (right): Mohair South Africa • 35 Virgin Wool - Cashmere Overview

Cashmere is the hair of the Cashmere sustainable cashmere in Mongolia; (3) to goat. The largest cashmere producing establish and coordinated countries are China and Mongolia. investments and actions that accelerates Around 3 percent (276 mt) of the current efforts; (4) to position Mongolia as approximately 9400 mt of cashmere a global leader for sustainable cashmere. produced in Mongolia in 2018 was transacted as “sustainable cashmere” in Textile Exchange and the UN are 2018(1). mapping the work of the different initiatives working to support more In response to interest and queries from sustainable cashmere production in brands, Textile Exchange has established Mongolia to create a more thorough the Responsible Cashmere Round understanding of their work. The Table (RCRT) in March 2019. The initiatives include the Aid by Trade RCRT brings together the industry with Foundation (AbTF) with its Sustainable the aim to better understand the issues Cashmere Standard, the Agronomeset and opportunities surrounding global Vétérinaires Sans Frontiers (AVSF), the cashmere production, as well as to have Green Gold Animal Health Project, the a common voice in the development of Sustainable Fiber Alliance (SFA) with any market-based solutions. its SFA standards system, The Nature Conservancy (TNC), and the Wildlife For Mongolia, where land degradation Conservation Society (WSC). More is the driving issue, Textile Exchange information about these initiatives in the is representing the International RCRT webinars here. Buyers Group that will participate as a stakeholder in the United Nations The Burberry Foundation, Oxfam and Development Program (UNDP) PUR Project have joined hands to initiate National Platform. The Platform has four a new five-year community program key objectives in its two year Collection in Afghanistan under which herders of Action Plan: (1) to formulate and cashmere will receive training and implement a collective action plan that tools to enhance their livelihoods and addresses the causes limiting the come out of poverty. The country sustainability of cashmere in Mongolia; (2) roughly 1,000 mt of cashmere per year, to influence and harmonise government accounting for 7 per cent of total global policy that ensures a strong and coherent production. legal and institutional framework for

(1) National Statistical Office of Mongolia; UNDP Mongolia at the RCRT Summit at the Textile Exchange Conference in Vancouver 2019.

Back to Contents Photo (right): Jelle Visser CC BY-SA 2.0 • 36 Virgin Wool - Other Wool Overview

Further wool - apart from sheep, Examples of initiatives cashmere and mohair - includes , Angora Rabbit, Camelhair, , The Mongolian National Chamber of , Vicuna and Yakhair. Commerce and Industry announced in a press release the development of a Alpaca is the hair of . It is mainly cluster to manufacture products from from South America, particularly Peru. and camel wool.

Angora is the hair of Angora Rabbits. 90 Shokay is a social enterprise in China percent of Angora is produced in China. that works with farmers to promote yak Europe, Chile and the USA also produce wool. smaller quantities. Several major brands and retailers have banned Angora due to animal welfare concerns.

Camelhair is produced from Mongolia to Russia.

Guanaco, Llama and Vicuna are camelides mainly in South America.

Yakhair is the hair of yak which are mainly found in the Himalayas.

Back to Contents Photo (right): Agnes Kwong, CC BY-SA 4.0 • 37 Recycled Wool A closer look

Recycled wool has a long tradition. Nuova Fratelli Boretti (NFB) is a - The Italian district of Prato is a major based Italian company which has been producer of recycled wool where working with regenerated textile raw approx 22,000 mt of wool are recycled materials since 1960. It is the founding every year(1). Other major production partner of Re.Verso™, a trademark used centers for wool recycling are Panipat for its re-engineered wool, cashmere in India and China. and . The Re.Verso™ supply chain includes Green Line, a company Key news responsible for sourcing and sorting European Outdoor Group (EOG) and of pre-consumer textile waste, NFB Greenroom Voice published the Recycled responsible for the selection and the Wool Report in 2018. mechanical recycling into fibers and selected strategic partners for the The Italian laboratory provider transformation into yarn, fabrics and Buzzilab focused on parameters for knitwear. chemical safety assessments of recycled wool and made a Product Restricted Recycled standards Substances List (PRSL) proposal in the The key standard for recycled wool are seminar on Recycled Wool hosted in the Recycled Content Standard (RCS), Prato in June 2018. Global Recycled Standard (GRS), SCS Examples of suppliers Recycled Claim and Cardato Recycled for recycled wool from Prato in . Geetanjali Woollens is an Indian company offering recycled wool fiber and Please see the page on “Sustainability yarn. The company has become a Textile Standards” for more information. Exchange member and was one of the early adopters of the supplier survey of Textile Exchange.

Novetex is a Hong Kong based company offering recycled wool fibers. The recycled wool is GRS certified.

(1) Cardato Recycled website.

Back to Contents Photo (right): Lisa Barsley, Prato • 38 Commitments to Preferred Wool Examples

An increasing number of brands and Wool by 2025. More information here. Further brands that have made public retailers are committed to preferred wool commitments to the Responsible Wool such as responsible, organic or recycled Kmart has to target that 100 per cent of Standard are Marks & Spencer, William- wool. wool used in their own Kmart-branded Sonoma, Inc., Eddie Bauer, REI, Tchibo, (Anko) clothing and bedding will be either: Varner, Vaude, Coyuchi, Mountain Examples farms certified under the Responsible Equipment Co-op, Kathmandu, and Wool Standard or equivalent standard; or Knowledge Cotton Apparel. Among Arc’teryx is working to transition farms that are fully traceable and verified companies that have expressed support their wool supply to the RWS. More as non-mulesed; or from recycled wool of the standard and are working toward information here. materials by July 2024. implementation are LL Bean, Indigenous Designs, Nau, Point6 and prAna. Deckers Outdoor is committed to Patagonia is committed to 100 percent ensure that 80 percent of their wool RWS as baseline requirement. As of Fall is sourced from either a RWS certified 2018, all of the wool in their products source or a by-product of the tannery is RWS certified, from farm to finished processing their . More product. More information here. information here. We want others to join us Ralph Lauren committed in 2019 that and help us transform the Eileen Fisher has published the objective 100 percent of its wool will be RWS wool industry together(1). that all suppliers will source wool that certified or recycled by 2025. Ralph “ meets the Responsible Wool Standard Lauren is also committed to 100 percent (RWS). More information here. Sustainable Fiber Alliance certified Rafael Elizondo, Esprit has made the commitment that 50 cashmere in 2025. More information Category Manager for Textile Carpets at IKEA percent of their wool is certified according here. to the Responsible Wool Standard by Target said that by July 2023, 100 2022. More information here. percent of wool used in its own Target- H&M is committed to use 100 percent branded clothing and bedding will be Responsible Wool Standard certified either from farms certified under the wool in their products by 2022. More Responsible Wool Standard or equivalent information here. standard, from farms fully traceable and verified as non-mulesed, or from recycled IKEA committed to transforming all wool wool materials. to 100 percent Responsibly Sourced

(1) IKEA Website 2019.

Back to Contents • 39 Silk

Back to Contents • 40 Silk SILK PRODUCTION 2018 A global overview

Another important animal-based fiber founded in 2017 by the Profits Fund is silk. Even though the market share Global Holding Ltd (PFGHL Group). ~159,648 mt is small, it is estimated that around BOMBYX completed the 300,000 households are involved in of an organic sericulture base at the production of raw silk(1). Nanchong’s Yilong County in 2018. According to their projection, the base In 2018, around 75 percent of all silk was will be able to farm a minimum of 700 China (~75%)75+ India (~22%) Uzbekistan22+12F (~1%) Other (~2%) produced in China. The second largest tons of fresh cocoons every year. producer was India with a market share of 22 percent(2). This means that China Chul Thai Silk, based in Thailand, is the and India together produced around 97 one of the few companies worldwide GLOBAL SILK PRODUCTION (MILLION MT) percent of all silk worldwide in 2018. producing organic silk. The supply chain 0.25 is GOTS certified. Around 159,648 mt of silk was produced 0.20 in 2018. Silk production volumes more Cocccon is a company producing 0.20 than doubled from 1990 to 2018, but organic ahimsa silk in Jharkhand, India. saw a decrease over the last four years. The supply chain is GOTS certified. 0.16 0.16 0.15 0.15 Preferred silk options includes organic, Sichuan OTEX Textiles from China is ahimsa, fairtrade and recycled silk. the only producer of organic silk in China 0.11 0.11 and makes 30 mt of silk filament a year. 0.10 0.08 Standards used for preferred silk Triaz GmbH supports this project and include organic standards such as the owns 50 percent of the company(3). Indian National Programme for Organic 0.05 Production (NPOP), the Organic Content Takihyo, a Japanese company, has Standard (OCS), the Global Organic started an project that provides Textile Standard (GOTS) and the World additional income to support cassava 0 Fair Trade Organization (WFTO). For farmers in Thailand. The cassava plants 1990 1992 1994 1996 1998 2000 2002 2004 2006 2008 2010 2012 2014 2016 2018 recycled silk there is the Global Recycled are cultivated for their roots, an important Standard (GRS) and the Recycled Claim source of food, and the leaves of the Standard (RCS). plants are used to feed the silkworms. The fecal byproduct is used as fertilizer 300,000 households Examples for organic silk suppliers for cultivating the cassava plants and the can be sold as food, for , are estimated to be involved in Bombyx is a China-based company the production of raw silk or medicine once the silk is harvested. (1) DNFI website. (2) FAOStat database and inserco statistics from the website. (3) Textile Exchange Insider Series 2017 - information provided by Triaz GmbH.

Back to Contents • 41 Leather

Back to Contents • 42 Virgin Leather A global overview

Global leather production is estimated agreed-upon best practices. It will be a at more than seven million mt(1). The framework to identify and give visibility to hides and skins of over one billion existing standards, programs and tools animals are used for the leather that brands can use for their sourcing. production(1). In its first version, the RLA will focus Concerns about animal welfare and on deforestation/conversion-free GLOBAL LEATHER PRODUCTION (MILLION MT) (1) environmental impacts of raising farming, animal welfare, the social and 8.0 7.51 7.30 and leather production have led to an and environmental impacts of leather 7.16 7.19 7.17 7.33 7.38 6.86 7.00 7.13 increasing awareness and demand for production, and traceability. 7.15 more sustainable - or even approaches to replace leather with vegan Textile Exchange is also developing 6.0 alternatives (see next page). an Impact Credit trading model for responsible fibers/materials which will Textile Exchange Responsible Leather apply for leather and beef (more in Round Table (RLRT) chapter on Impact Credits). 4.0

In 2017, Textile Exchange began an The RLRT hosted its first ever initiative to focus on leather in response global event, the Global Forum on 2.0 to demand from brands to address the Responsible Leather, in Ireland in impacts of the full leather value chain. October 2018, alongside the Global Textile Exchange has pulled together over Roundtable on Sustainable Beef (GRSB) 400 stakeholders from all parts of the conference. The second event was the 0 2012 2013 industry, including brands, farmers, and RLRT Summit on October 18, 2019 in 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2014 2015 suppliers, as well as NGOs, international Vancouver. organizations and special interest groups. Bovine Sheep Goat In 2018, the Responsible Leather Round Leather Working Group (LWG) Table (RLRT) was launched, a platform The LWG is a 400 member, multi- where everyone can participate, share stakeholder group that has developed information and drive the development an environmental auditing protocol of an assessment tool for the leather for tanneries. LWG audited tanneries industry. represent approximately 20 percent of The Responsible Leather Assessment the world’s production of footwear leather (RLA) tool, which is being developed and 16 percent of total leather volume. through the International Working Group The LWG standard will be a reference (RLA IWG), will establish a benchmark of point for the Responsible Leather work.

(1) FAO 2016 - World Statistical Compendium for Raw HIdes and Skins - global production of bovine Back to Contents hides and skins - wet salted weight production, and lambskin - dry weight, and goatskin • 43 and kidskin - dry weight. Recycled Leather and Leather Alternatives An overview

Alongside a growing interest in more Appleninealliance’s Apple Peel Skin is water, which is a leftover from leaves of the pineapple plant. sustainable animal-based leather and a vegan material which integrates organic the coconut industry in , vegan synthetic leather alternatives, apple peels into the skin of the material. through fermentation of a bacterial Provenance is a bioengineered material there is a growing number of initiatives culture. This jelly is harvested and based on as building blocks. developing innovative biobased or Threads - Mylo™ is developed enriched with natural fibers, gums and from mycelium cells by creating optimal Ultrafabrics has launched its recycled leather options. Examples are: to create a more durable and Ultraleather® Volar Bio in 2019, a growing conditions for it to self-assemble. flexible material. Recycled Leather blended multi-layer leather-like material is also increasingly used as leather Modern Meadow’s Zoa™ is a with 29 percent biobased content, Around 800,000 mt of leather waste is alternative. Work is also being conducted bioengineered material based on the composed of a and (1) produced annually . Leather recycling on recycled cork. protein collagen produced through biobased surface made from corn and helps to reduce this leather waste. While fermentation from yeast in a lab with a backing consisting of 65 percent there are various suppliers of bonded Flokser’s biobased SERTEX is a 70 polyester and 35 percent (more in percent biobased material derived from the support of biotechnology. Modern leather, examples for advanced recycled Meadow is currently collaborating with the HUB). leather are RECYC LEATHER and Nike corn made in collaboration with BioAmber and DuPont. selected brands to launch their first Vegea uses grape marc, the and Flyleather, an engineered material made products in 2019. by at least 50 percent reclaimed the stalks of the wine grape bunch, which Fruitleather Rotterdam is currently are left over after . From the leather fibers together. developing a new, eco-friendly process MuSkin comes from the Phellinus Ellipsoideus, a parasitic fungus that seeds a bio-oil is extracted which is then The European Outdoor Group (EOG) that converts leftover into durable, polymerized using an innovative patented leather-like material, possibly strong grows in the wild and attacks the trees in has published a Recycled Leather report the subtropical forests. process. Vegea is currently working on in 2019 that aims to support industry enough to be used for shoes, handbags the commercialization. professionals to better understand and other products. MycoWorks is grown rapidly from Vitrolabs is a biotechnology company recycled leather as alternative to virgin Frumat’s Apple Skin is a vegan material mycelium and agricultural byproducts in a leather. carbon-negative process. based in California using stem cell-based derived from apple byproducts. technologies to develop “slaughter-free” Leather Alternatives Hemp Bio Leather is developed from Natural Fiber is developing leather. hemp waste fiber residues - a by-product its Mirum™ 100% percent plant-based Amadou Leather™ is a compostable leather-substitute (more in the Q&A). material grown on recycled from the current local hemp, food and sawdust using existing industry in Denmark. Piñatex® is made of fiber from the cultivation techniques. Malai is a biobased material grown on

(1) UNIDO 2000 - generated in the leather products industry.

Back to Contents • 44 Commitments to Preferred Leather & Alternatives Examples

Commitments to preferred leather is increasing, the leather industry as a by-product of the ; may also learn from the beef industry. or from sources that are certified to a A growing number of companies are Investor groups, environmental groups recognised responsible leather standard; committed to using preferred leather or and consumers already focus on the or from recycled leather material by July leather alternatives. question on how the beef industry 2024. 32 fashion brands (including among can help meet the SDGs, particularly From December 2019, 100 percent of them Adidas, Burberry, Chanel, Galeries SDG 15 “Life on Land” and SDG 13 the leather will come from LWG tanneries. Lafayette, H&M, Inditex, Nike, “Climate Action”, through eliminating Ralph Lauren committed to 100 percent and Stella McCartney) have signed a deforestation and following improved LWG-certified leather by 2025. commitment called G7 FashionPact. grazing practices. Leather is linked to the same impacts, and has the same The commitment is built on three pillars: Commitments to leather alternatives climate, biodiversity and oceans. All opportunities, so cross-sectoral learning signing brands should develop strategies and collaboration can help to accelerate A growing number of companies have connected to each pillar. The biodiversity meeting the SDGs. The Responsible also committed to animal-free products pillar includes animal welfare as one Leather Assessment (RLA) tool, which is and leather alternatives. An example of the aspects to consider in their being developed by the Textile Exchange is Stella McCartney, a vegetarian strategies. Responsible Leather Round Table (RLRT), brand, that only uses vegetarian leather supports the industry to drive progress alternatives. Companies are starting to make efforts towards the SDG goals through the to eliminate deforestation from their leather value chain. supply chain, and are working with global references, such as the Accountability A number of big corporations have strong Framework. For example, H&M, VF animal welfare policies, that cover all of Corporation, Timberland, and Vans are their animal-derived fibers and materials. committed to deforestation-free leather Several companies also started to set and put a temporary ban on leather from leather specific sustainability targets. Brazil in 2019 to respond to the fires in the Amazon area which are also linked to For example, ASOS is committed to only the cattle production. sourcing leather from tanneries that have a Leather Working Group (LWG) audit. To eliminate deforestation and improved grazing practices can also be important Kmart has the target that 100 percent measures to contribute to the Sustainable of leather used in our their Kmart- Development Goals (SDGs). As the branded (Anko) clothing, footwear and number of commitments to the SDGs accessories will be either: fully traceable

Back to Contents • 45 Manmade Cellulosic Fibers

Back to Contents • 46 Manmade Cellulosic Fibers

Photo: Aditya Birla

Back to Contents • 47 Virgin Manmade Cellulosic Fibers

Production facts and figures GLOBAL MARKET SHARE SHARE OF MMCFs OF MMCFS IN 2018 BY TYPE IN 2018 With an annual production volume Lyocell was the third most used MMCF of around 6.7 million mt, manmade type after viscose and acetate in 2018. It MMCFs ~6.4% cellulosics fibers (MMCFs) have a had a market share of around 4 percent market share of around 6.2 percent of of all MMCFs in 2018 with a production the total fiber production volume(1). volume of roughly 0.26 million mt(1). The compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of ~107 ~6.7 The global MMCF production volume has lyocell from 2017 to 2022 is estimated million mt million mt more than doubled from around three at around 15 percent(1). This means that million mt in 1990 to around 6.7 million lyocell is expected to grow faster than mt in 2018 and is expected to further other MMCFs. grow in the coming years(1). Modal had a market share of around MMCFs include viscose, acetate, lyocell, 2.7 percent of the total MMCF market modal, and cupro. 6+94F Viscose78 (~79%) Acetate (~14%) Lyocell+14+4+31F (~4%) in 2018 with a production of around Modal (~2.7%) Cupro (<1%) (1) Viscose is the most important MMCF 0.18 million mt . The compound annual with a market share of around 79 percent growth rate (CAGR) of modal from of all MMCFs and a production volume 2017 to 2022 is estimated at around 9 (1) GLOBAL MANMADE CELLULOSIC FIBER PRODUCTION (MILLION MT) of around 5.3 million mt in 2018(2). The percent . compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of Cupro has a market share of less than viscose staple fiber from 2017 to 2022 is one percent of the total MMCF market. 9 8.5 (1) 8.0 estimated at around 6–7 percent . There was only one supplier of cupro 8 7.5 7.1 (3) 6.7 Acetate has a market share of around 14 producing around 17,000 mt in 2018 . 7 6.5 percent of all MMCFs with a production Manmade cellulosic fibers are currently 6 of around 0.95 million mt in 2018 but it is primarily produced from . 5 mainly used for non-textile applications(2). 4 3 2

1 0 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 2022

(1) Lenzing Investor Presentation from 7 August 2019. Viscose Acetate Lyocell Modal Cupro (2) based on Lenzing, email correspondence in July and November 2019; figures based on The Fiber Year 2017, 2018, 2019 and Lenzing’s own estimates; global market data and share compiled by Textile Exchange (see “Global Fiber Market”). (3) Asahi Kasei, email correspondence; global market data and share compiled by Textile Exchange (see “Global Fiber Market”).

Back to Contents • 48 Virgin Manmade Cellulosic Fibers Standard updates - forests GLOBAL FOREST AREA GLOBAL CERTIFIED FOREST AREA (% OF LAND) (% OF FOREST) The global forest area decreased from FSC, founded in 1993, is an international 31.25 31.20 12 around 31.20 percent of the global land member-led organization that sets the 9.85 (1) area in 2000 to 30.77 in 2015 . This FSC standards for responsible forest 31.03 8.40 equals a loss of more than 56 million management and chain of custody. As 31.00 8 30.90 hectare of forests(2). The actual state of part of the continuous improvement 5.96 the forests is even more worrying if forest process, the FSC standards are reviewed 30.77 30.75 4 degradation and the changes in type and every five years. FSC is currently working quality are taken into account as well. with key players in the industry to achieve 0.96 the first complete certified textile supply 30.50 0 Forests and sustainable forest chains which could allow consumer 2000 2005 2010 2015 2000 2005 2010 2015 management are a priority area in the FSC on textile products. SDGs. The SDG 15.2.1 indicator Since the launch of the first FSC certified measures the progress towards these fabrics produced by the fiber producer goals including the share of certified GLOBAL CERTIFIED FOREST AREA ENKA and the fabric manufacturer Ghezzi (IN MILLION HA) forests. The share of the forest area S.p.a in 2017, the number of FSC 500 Share of certified certified to FSC and/or PEFC has forest in 2018 certified fabric suppliers is increasing. 428 432 423 increased from 0.96 percent of all forests 400 PEFC 29% in 2000 to 10.82 percent in 2017(1). This PEFC, founded in 1999, is a global means that still around 90 percent of alliance of national forest certification PEFC / SFI 24% 300 the forests are not certified. While the systems and the largest forest PEFC / SFI / FSC 6% overall trend shows an increasing area of certification system worldwide. As part 200 certified forests, the certified forest area of its continuous improvement process, PEFC / FSC 15% decreased from 432 million ha in 2017 to there is a revision process every five 100 FSC 27% 423 million ha in 2018. years. The revised PEFC Sustainable Forest Management benchmark standard 0 In total, around 73 percent of the certified was approved in November 2018. 2016 2017 2018 forest was certified according to PEFC The updated version expanded social and its equivalents. This includes the ~30 requirements, introduced a stricter percent of all certified forests in 2018 definition of ecologically important areas, that were SFI certified and around 20 and now includes Trees Outside Forests Tip: How to find suppliers of MMCFs from FSC and/or PEFC feedstock percent that were PEFC and FSC double (TOFs). Since the launch of the world`s certified. Around 48 percent of certified first PEFC-certified fabrics in 2018, the Check out the FSC database or PEFC database. Members of Textile Exchange will also forests in 2018 were FSC certified number of certified textile companies is (3) find a list of textile relevant FSC and PEFC suppliers along the supply chain in theHUB . (including the double-certified area) . increasing.

(1) FAO SDG 15.2.1 Progress Reporting; 2018 figures not yet available at report launch. (2) FAOStat, accessed on 9 September 2019. (3) based on FSC and PEFC press releases May 2017 and February 2019 and email correspondence with FSC, PEFC and SFI.

Back to Contents • 49 Virgin Manmade Cellulosic Fibers GLOBAL MARKET SHARE OF VISCOSE PRODUCTION GONE THROUGH Standard updates CANOPYSTYLE AUDIT (1)

2015 Forests and other feedstocks standard is expected - after a stakeholder 2018 (continued) involvement which took place in September 2019 - to be published in the The CanopyStyle Audits have become beginning of 2020. the leading assessment of MMCF suppliers on their raw material sourcing ZDHC began to look into the chemical 0 % ~ 54 % practices. Around 54 percent of the management aspect at the MMCF fibre existing global viscose production production in 2018. The Roadmap capacity has gone through the to Zero Programme expanded its CanopyStyle independent verification content scope to include fiber and audit in 2018, with 28 percent having raw material production. For now, the 100+F 54+46+F a low risk of sourcing from Ancient focus is on the production of MMCF. and Endangered Forests and other production process ENDANGERED FOREST SOURCING POLICIES (1) controversial sources . More information will be considered at a later stage. In OF VISCOSE PRODUCERS (2) here. October 2019, CanopyStyle and the ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Programme 2015 2018 The market share of viscose producers announced a partnership to scale up their with endangered forest sourcing policies collaborative work toward tackling the increased from around 35 percent of the negative impacts of chemical processing, global production in 2015 to around 80 wastewater discharge, and raw material (2) percent in 2018 based on Canopy . sourcing in viscose production. More 35% 80% Pulp and fiber about ZDHC in the Q&A and here.

Bluesign is currently developing specific Further standards that can be used for criteria for fiber production that will be the pulp and/or fiber level includeCradle added as Annex “Fiber ” to Cradle Material Health Standard, 35+ Viscose producers with endangered65+F forest sourcing80+ policies by market share 20+F EU BAT and the EU Eco . to its “bluesign® Criteria for production Viscose producers without endangered forest sourcing policies by market share sites”. Criteria for fiber manufacturing will For MMCFs made from recycled include manufacturing of synthetic fibers materials, the Reclaimed Claim as for example polyester and polyamide Standards (RCS) and Global Recycled as well as MMCF. For MMCFs, this will Standard (GRS) can be used. The first Tip: How to find CanopyStyle audited suppliers. include criteria for the feedstock, pulp, recycled MMCF suppliers have already and fiber production. The updated been certified accordingly. CanopyStyle regularly publishes the Hot Report assessing the key MMCF suppliers on their raw material sourcing practices (more on next page). (1) CanopyStyle Hot Button Report 2018. (2) CanopyStyle, email correspondence.

Back to Contents • 50 Virgin Manmade Cellulosic Fibers Tip: How to find CanopyStyle audited suppliers. Directory: Suppliers Map(1) CanopyStyle regularly publishes the Hot Button Report assessing the key MMCF suppliers on their raw material sourcing practices. This map locates the global dissolving pulp and manmade cellulosic fiber mills based on the Canopy Hot Button Issue 2018. Dissolving pulp was produced in 31 mills in 14 countries in 2018 with around 60 percent produced in China, South Africa, USA and Brazil. Manmade cellulosic fiber was produced in 48 mills in 10 countries with 65–70 percent produced in China.

NORTH AMERICA EUROPE TOP 5 COUNTRIES DISSOLVING PULP CANADA AUSTRIA CZECH REPUBLIC FINLAND GERMANY • China: ~21 % Pulp: 4 | 678,500 mt Pulp: 2 | 447,000 mt Fiber: 1 | 270,000 mt Pulp: 1 | 460,000 mt Fiber: 2 | 98,000 mt • South Africa: ~15 % USA Fiber: 3 | 412,000 mt • USA: ~13 % Pulp: 4 | 880,000 mt NORWAY UK • Brazil: ~11 % Fiber: 2 | 50,000 mt Pulp: 1 | unknown Pulp: 1 | 100,000 mt Pulp: 2 | 425,000 mt Fiber: 1 | 40,000 mt • Canada: ~ 10 %

TOP 5 COUNTRIES MMC FIBER ASIA • China: ~67 % CHINA • US: ~8 % Pulp: 7 | 1,480,000 mt • India: ~7 % Fiber: 30 | 4,683,500 mt • Austria: ~6 % TAIWAN • Indonesia: ~6 % Fiber: 1 | 70,000 mt THAILAND FUTURE MILLS Pulp: 1 | 240,000 mt SOUTH AMERICA • Belarus: 1 INDONESIA • Brazil: 1 pulp mill BRAZIL Pulp: 2 | 168,000 mt • Canada: 3 pulp mill Pulp: 2 | 735,000 mt AFRICA • Russia: 1 pulp mill Fiber: 3 | 412,000 mt CHILE • Turkey: 1 fiber mill SOUTH AFRICA INDIA Fiber: 1 | 550,000 mt Pulp: 2 | 1,010,000 mt Pulp: 1 | 70,000 mt Fiber: 4 | 498,000 mt COUNTRY Mill type (pulp or fiber): number of mills | production capacity per year in metric tons

(1) based on Canopy - The Hot Button Report 2018.

Back to Contents • 51 Virgin Manmade Cellulosic Fibers Supplier updates - forest and pulp level

Forest level Pulp level

Key players in the production of wood for Key players in the production of dissolving pulp are Sappi, Bracell (part dissolving pulp are Sappi, Aditya Birla, of the Royal Golden Eagle Group), and Lenzing, Bracell, and Rayonier(1). Rayonier(1). Examples Examples Bracell, one of the largest producers Sappi is a leading global diversified wood of dissolving pulp, announced the fiber company focused on providing expansion of its dissolving pulp mill in dissolving wood pulp and other biobased Brazil in July 2019. When the expansion materials based in South Africa. In 2019, is completed by late 2021, Bracell will Textile Exchange interviewed Bernhard have an annual production capacity Riegler from Sappi about its project of approximately 2.0 million tons of Khulisa. Through this project, a shared- dissolving pulp. value tree farming scheme, Sappi is aiming to enhance the economic and Duratex and Lenzing announced in social conditions of the communities in 2018 to build a 450,000 mt dissolving which it operates (more in the Q&A). wood pulp plant in Brazil in a joint venture. Bracell, a leading Brazilian producer of wood for dissolving pulp and part Further expansion of dissolving pulp of the Royal Eagle Group, launched a production is expected in Belarus, Canada (2) new campaign to explain the benefits of and Russia . growing eucalyptus to rural landowners in 2019. The new website and telephone hotline explain the company’s Forest Partnership Program, which aims to expand the company’s network of forest partners.

(1) Water Footprint Network 2017 - Viscose Fibers Production. An assessment of sustainbility issues. (2) Canopy Hot Button Report 2018.

Back to Contents Photo (right):Simone Seisl from the Sappi South Africa visit • 52 Virgin Manmade Cellulosic Fibers Supplier updates - fiber level

The ten largest MMCF producers in joint venture with Duratex. Lenzing also 2018 were Lenzing, Aditya Birla, Tanghan started a new blockchain project. More in Sanyou, Sateri (RGE Group), Yibin Grace, the chapter on “Traceability”. Xinjiang Zhongtai Chemicals, Sandong Yamei, Xiansheng, Aoyang Metsä Group and Itochu established Technology, and a joint venture that builds an industrial according to Canopy estimates(1). demo plant to produce wood-based textile fibers with the aim to demonstrate Examples a new technology for converting - grade pulp into textile fibers. Construction Aditya Birla has received a “light green of the demo plant in Äänekoski, Finland, shirt” in the Canopy assessment in 2018 with an annual capacity of about 500 mt, and the Material Health Certificate Gold began in October 2018 and it is planned Level from the Cradle to Cradle Products to be started up in late 2019. Innovation Institute for its Spunshades Viscose Staple Fiber (more in the Q&A). Royal Golden Eagle (RGE) has announced plans to invest $200 million Eastman launched Naia™, a di- USD over the next 10 years into cellulosic acetate filament made from wood pulp textile fiber . responsibly sourced from sustainably The investment, revealed ahead of managed and produced in the Textile Exchange Sustainability a near closed-loop chemical process in Conference in Vancouver in October 2017 (more in the HUB). 2019, will support solutions in alternative Enka has received a “light green shirt” or plant-based feedstock and in the Canopy assessment 2018 and is closed-loop manufacturing. Through its thus the third company after Aditya Birla business groups Sateri in China and and Lenzing that received this. Asia Pacific Rayon (APR) in Indonesia, Singapore-based RGE is the world’s Lenzing announced in June 2019 that it largest viscose producer with a total will build the world’s largest lyocell plant annual production capacity at 1.4 million with an annual production capacity of mt. 100,000 mt in Thailand. In 2018, Lenzing announced plans to build a 450,000 mt Read more about news regarding dissolving wood pulp plant in Brazil in a “recycled” MMCFs here.

(1) Canopy Hot Button Report 2018.

Back to Contents Photo (right): Lenzing AG (Lenzing site), Photographer: Bavaria Luftbild Verlags GmbH • 53 Virgin Manmade Cellulosic Fibers Supporting the transition

There are a number of initiatives working Changing Markets in collaboration as wood and pulp since 1999. Over the sustainable MMCFs and released the towards preferred MMCFs. Collaboration with Earthworm (formerly The Forest years, Earthworm helped more than 60 Joint Letter Viscose in April 2019 (see and information are key for a successful Trust) launched a Roadmap towards companies to set up No Deforestation, commitments). uptake of preferred MMCFs. responsible viscose and modal fiber and Exploitation (NDPE) policies and manufacturing in February 2018. In put them into practice. With businesses UNECE/FAO and Timber Textile Exchange Manmade November 2018, Changing Markets and civil society, Earthworm innovated Section organized an exhibit during the Cellulosics Global Round Table is an published its new report “Dirty Fashion: the High Carbon Stock (HCS) Approach - United Nations High Level Political Forum international meeting held during the Spotlight on China” focusing on the paving the way for a concrete definition of on Sustainable Development in New annual Textile Exchange Conference. China Collaboration for Sustainable deforestation. York in July 2018 entitled “Forests for In July 2019, an European Manmade Viscose (CV). In November 2019, Fashion”. Cellulosics Roundtable was held during Changing Market released its new report Fashion Positive leverages Cradle to the Berlin Fashion Week. Cradle Certified™ Product Standards ZDHC began to work on the chemical ‘Dirty Fashion Disrupted: Leaders and management aspect at the MMC fiber laggards revealed’. to transform the way fashion products Textile Exchange MMCF E-Learning and materials are made. Lyocell, cupro production in 2018. The Roadmap to Series was a 4-part series for its The Collaboration for Sustainable and viscose were selected for the Call Zero Programme expanded its content members offering the opportunity to learn Development of Viscose (CV), founded to Innovation because of their potential scope to include fiber and raw material more about MMCFs, their future role and early 2018, aims to offer viscose for circular economy. In 2019, Fashion production. For now, the focus is on the more responsible approaches that ran producers a platform to achieve more Positive has selected MMCFs as priority production of MMCF. Dissolving pulp between April and September 2018. sustainable viscose. CV is a collaboratiion area for their work. production process will be considered at of 10 viscose fiber producers – a later stage (more in the Q&A). Canopy works with over 160 of the Forum for the Future is collaborating forest industry’s biggest customers collectively representing over 50% of the world’s viscose staple fiber production. with Textile Exchange to diverse and their suppliers to develop business perspectives on the vision for solutions that address deforestation This self-regulating initiative published the CV Roadmap in June 2018. This Positive MMCF. The Visioning Workshop and protect forests. In December concept was presented at the European 2018, Canopy published the updated three years action plan includes a set of existing sustainability standards for Manmade Cellulosics Roundtable in Hot Button Report 2018, which was Berlin in July 2019 and conducted at first launched in 2016 and supports the raw materials (FSC and PEFC), manufacturing (e.g. ZDHC, BSCI) and the Textile Exchange Conference in brands and retailers in their selection Vancouver in October 2019. Another of manmade cellulosic fiber suppliers. product level (e.g. OEKO-TEX standard 100). CV is currently working on a visioning workshop is planned for Asia in Since 2017, CanopyStyle Audits were early 2020. conducted by the Rainforest Alliance for Roadmap 2025. Lenzing, Birla Cellulose, Sateri, Sanyou, Earthworm (formerly known as The Partnership for Sustainable Textiles Fulida and ENKA. The audit results are Forest Trust) has worked in value chains aims to increase the use of more available to the public. of key raw materials linked to forests such

Back to Contents • 54 “Recycled” Manmade Cellulosic Fibers & Alternatives A closer look

Manmade cellulosics represent a viscose and other cellulose based The following companies are working Nanollose is an Australian particularly vibrant innovation landscape. residues to new MMCF. The technology on MMCFs made from blended biotechnology company that has It includes “recycled” MMCFs made can be applied in any existing dissolving textiles: Blend Re:Wind, Block-Texx, developed a MMCF which is derived from textile or non-textile based cellulose pulp and MMCF plant. Investors include HKRITA, Södra, Tyton Biosciences, using microbes that convert biomass residues. The first MMCFs made from the H&M Group, Virala, Fortum and the and Worn Again. As the majority of waste products from the , wine recycled materials that are commercially RGE Group (more in the HUB). textiles are fiber blends, these are very and liquid industries into microbial available use cotton based pre-consumer important innovations. Read more cellulose. Nanollose currently is in textile residues as feedstock. Ioncell is a technology that turns used about these innovations in the chapter the process to scale the production. textiles, pulp or even old newspapers into on “Fiber Blend Recycling”. In 2018, Nanollose launched its first MMCFs made from recycled textiles new textile fibers using a novel solvent microbial cellulose based fabrics. called ionic liquid. The commercial MMCFs made from non-textile Asahi Kasei’s Bemberg is a cupro fiber production start is planned for 2025. residues Orange Fiber is an Italian startup made in Japan from 100 percent cotton which has developed a process to linter, a pre-consumer residue of the Lenzing’s Refibra™ is the first lyocell Inspidere’s Mestic® is a method in extract cellulose from the by-products cotton processing, and certified under fiber made with reclaimed materials development to retrieve and convert of the citrus industry to produce the Global Recycle Standard (GRS). The offered on a commercial scale. Refibra™ cellulose from cow manure into fabrics. The latest collection was annual production capacity is 17,000 mt. was launched in spring 2017. While it regenerated cellulose fibers. The produced in an acetate process. was originally made with 20 percent pre- startup is based in the Netherlands. Birla’s R&D has innovated on making consumer cotton residues, this share has viscose fiber using recycled cotton been increased to 30 percent in 2019 fabric waste. The fiber and process have (more in the Q&A). been certified under the Recycled Claim Standard (RCS). Partnership in value Re:newcell transforms high cellulosic chain, collections with leading brands waste such as cotton and manmade have been progressed. Scale up is cellulosics into dissolving pulp reusing underway with technology partner (more the process chemicals. The Kristinehamn in the Q&A). demo plant in Sweden produces 7,000 mt of re:newcell pulp per year. In June Evrnu is a USA-Based startup working 2019, re:newcell announced that its on the development of a chemical partner Tangshan Sanyou succeeded in process turning cellulosic textile resides producing viscose staple fiber Tangcell™ into new MMCFs. made from 50% post-consumer recycled Infinited Fiber is a Finnish startup and cotton textiles supplied by Re:newcell. In spin-off of the VTT Technical Research September 2019, re:newcell presented Center of Finland that has developed a CIRCULOSE, a branded material made technology that can return the cotton, from 100% recycled textiles.

Back to Contents • 55 Commitments to Preferred Manmade Cellulosic Fibers Examples

The number of brands and retailers health and safety of workers and local committed to preferred manmade communities and drive the transition to cellulosics is increasing. closed-loop chemical processes.

Canopy Commitments Call by the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles The number of brands and retailers committed to eliminate ancient and The goal of the Partnership for NUMBER OF BRANDS/RETAILERS COMMITTED TO ELIMINATE endangered forests from their fabrics Sustainable Textiles is a significant THE USE OF ANCIENT AND ENDANGERED FORESTS increased from zero in fall 2013 to 60 in increase in the volumes of more fall 2015 and 160 in fall 2018(1). sustainable MMCF on the market. To ensure that its members can fulfill their Among the committed brands are Levi goals, the Partnership for Sustainable Strauss & Co., Marks & Spencer, EILEEN Textiles released a call for commitment Fall 2015 60 FISHER, Stella McCartney and H&M. to sustainable MMCF production in Changing Markets Roadmap April 2019, encouraging all MMCF to improve transparency in the supply Eight major brands and retailers have chain and collaborate with expert Fall 2018 160 publicly committed to the Changing organizations and initiatives, particularly Markets Roadmap. These eight with regard to responsible sourcing of companies were ASOS, C&A, Esprit, cellulosic raw materials and hazardous H&M, Inditex, M&S, Next and Tesco, chemicals. Existing schemes (for as of November 2018(2). This number example CanopyStyle Initiative or similar increased to 10 companies in November requirements and the Changing Market 2019, with New Look and Morrisons as Report Foundation and EU BAT) were new signatories(3). mentioned as examples for orientation(4).

The brands and retailers committed to use their leverage with manufacturers to reduce carbon emissions, improve

(1) CanopyStyle Impact Infographic, email correspondence (2) Changing Markets 2018 - Dirty Fashion: Spotlight on China (3) Changing Markets 2019 - Dirty Fashion Disrupted. Leaders and laggards revealed (4) Partnership for Sustainable Textiles - Joint Letter Viscose 2019

Back to Contents • 56 Synthetic Fibers

Back to Contents • 57 Polyester

Photo: Pixabay Public Domain

Back to Contents • 58 GLOBAL FIBER PRODUCTION IN 2018 Recycled Polyester Production facts and figures

Polyester is the most widely used fiber was the ban on importing different types ~107 Polyester (~52%) worldwide. With an annual production of waste, including bottles million mt of around 55 million mt polyester had and polyester textile waste, to China that a share of around 52 percent of the came into effect in January 2018. The global fiber production in 2018(1). prices for recycled polyester have been increasing as a reaction to the ban(3). As Recycled polyester is mainly made from a consequence of the China import ban PET plastic bottles. Recycled polyester on waste, much of the waste has been MARKET52 SHARE OF RECYCLED POLYESTER+48F can also be made from other post- sent to other countries such as Malaysia, consumer plastic such as ocean waste Vietnam, and Thailand. 2008 2018 or discarded polyester textiles or from pre-consumer processing residues such The estimated rPET share of polyester as fabric . staple fiber was as high as around 29 percent in 2018 (36 percent in 2017)(3). The market share of recycled polyester However, as the rPET share for polyester 8% 13% increased from around 8 percent of the filament is much lower, the total rPET (2) world PET fiber production in 2008 to share of polyester fiber including staple (3) around 13 percent in 2018 . Compared fiber and filament is lower as well. (2) 8+ Recycled polyester92+F 14+Other polyester 86+F to 16 percent in 2017 , this is a short- term decline in the global rPET market share. The main reason for this decline GLOBAL POLYESTER PRODUCTION (MILLION MT) 60 53.4 53.7 55.1 52.0 45.5 44.5 42.2 39.9 40 36.2 32.6 31.0

20

8% 9% 11% 11% 12% 12% 13% 13% 14% 16% 13% 0 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018

(1) Oerlikon presentation based on The Fiber Year 2019, published at ITMA 2019. Recycled polyester Other polyester (2) Unifi presentation at the Textile Exchange Conference in Milan in 2018. (3) based on IHSM 2018 presentation by Ashish Pujari “Highlights of a strong growth market - polyester fibers & PET” and Textile Exchange estimates.

Back to Contents • 59 Extended supplier mapping: Recycled Polyester All Textile Exchange Members have access to a full version of the supplier mapping. For more information visit the HUB or contact our Membership Coordinator. Directory: Key suppliers and innovators

SPAIN This map locates key suppliers and innovators of NETHERLANDS SWITZERLAND recycled polyester based on their headquarter. • Seaqual • Cumapol • Gr3n • Ioniqa All use mechanical recycling of plastic bottles except FRANCE GERMANY CHINA where indicated otherwise. • CARBIOS • Advansa - Suprelle® • Cixi Xingke CANADA • Trevira - SINFINECO® • Haili Environmental Technology • Loop Industries / Indorama joint • Nan Ya - venture - emerging ECOGREEN® -plus JAPAN USA • Itochu - RENU™ • Jeplan • Ambercycle • - ECOPET™ + Eco • BIONIC® Circle™ • Circular Systems - Texloop rPET-1 • Toray - ECOUSE™ • Eastman • Lycra Company (Invista) - LYCRA® KOREA T400® + ® + THERMOLITE® EcoMade • Hyosung - Regen™ • Poole Company - EcoSure® • Premiere • First Mile by - Ground to TAIWAN Good™ • Far Eastern - TOPGREEN® • Unifi - REPREVE® • Libolon - RePET™

Innovation beyond mechanical THAILAND recycling of plastic bottles • EcoBlue - 3D pure rPET chips Chemical recycling • Indorama - Ecorama Biological recycling ITALY KENYA INDIA SRI LANKA Ocean waste incl. ocean bound • De Martini Bayart & • The Megh Group - T3. Trash. • AGL Polyfil Private Limited • Eco Spindles Post-consumer textiles Textifibra SpA Thread. Textile • Ganesha Ecosphere - Rivivere Pre-consumer textiles • Radici Group - • JB Ecotex r-RADYARN® + Other feedstock r-Starlight® • Plastics for Change Fairness • Sinterama - Newlife™ • Polygenta - perPETual • Reliance - R|Elan™ GreenGold • Sutlej Textiles • Sybil Industries - SyGreen Back to Contents • 60 Recycled Polyester Key news and innovations

Ocean plastic - examples oceans from marine litter. Licensed by the World Fair Trade Organization. Ambercycle is a USA based startup Seaqual members can produce, buy Plastics For Change has developed developing an enzymatic process for BIONIC® materials (resins, fiber, yarns or sell products containing Upcycled a franchise model to fortify recycling polyester recycling. and fabrics) are made with plastic Marine Plastic. Seaqual yarn is an 100% businesses that pay waste-pickers recovered from marine and coastal recycled material with full traceability decent incomes, train them, and make CARBIOS is piloting an enzymatic ® environments. BIONIC has joined forces (‘DNA tracer inside’). investments (more in the HUB). process to depolymerize PET into with Waterkeeper Alliance on an initiative its . The construction of a designed to protect the world’s coastal Unifi launched REPREVE® Our Ocean™ Chemical and biological recycling demonstration plant will start late 2020 or and marine environments from plastic fiber in June 2019 that is made from early 2021. . This network of coastal cleanup bottles collected within 50 kilometers of Commercially available on the market: Cumapol, DSM-Niaga, Morssinkhof, efforts is called STRONGER THREAD®. coastlines in countries or areas that lack FENC’s TOPGREEN®, Polygenta’s formal waste or recycling systems. DuFor and NHL Stenden are FENC New Century offers recycled perPETual and Teijin’s Eco Circle™ collaborating on the new CuRe polyester filament made with ocean Social responsibility - examples commercially offer chemically recycled Technology, a new low energy chemical plastic. It accounts for approximately PET. polyester recycling process for any type First Mile are recycled polyester bottles 5 percent of all its feedstock used for ® of coloured polyester. The pilot plant that can be traced back to the collection In 2018 INVISTA launched LYCRA recycled polyester (more in the HUB). T400® EcoMade fiber. More than 65 located in The Netherlands is planned to networks responsible for picking up the be operational at the end of 2019. First Mile: more than half of their post consumer bottles. They are used percent of the overall fiber content comes collection networks in Haiti, Honduras, for the Thread Ground to Good™ and from a combination of recycled plastics Eastman announced in March 2019 and Taiwan fall under the “Ocean bound” collected by people earning their way out (PET bottles) and renewable plant-based their intention to launch a new chemical ® ® plastic definition as set forth by the Next of poverty. The raw materials are sourced resources (corn). The LYCRA T400 recycling process for polyester. Wave working group based on the work from Haiti, Honduras, and Taiwan (more Ecomade recycled content is chemically of Dr. Jenna Jambeck. Plastic that is in the HUB). recycled. Gr3n invented a new chemical process using microwave radiation to accelerate mismanaged within 50 km of shore lines Ioniqa has developed a chemical will end up in the ocean if not properly The Megh Group - T3. Trash. Thread. the depolymerization of PET into Textile. is a new project in development recycling process for rPET. In July 2019 monomers. collected and processed (more in the they took the first production plant of 10 HUB). in Kenya. T3 is currently constructing a mechanical PET recycling plant in kilotons in the Netherlands in operation. Loop Industries / Indorama joint venture has developed a patented Plastics For Change is expanding Kenya with an initial capacity of 25 mt per Jeplan’s new Kitakyushu Hibikinada to coastal communities across Asia. day. The core focus of the project is to chemical recycling process to Plant for chemical recycling of polyester depolymerize all kinds of with This initiative is about creating better directly collaborate with the first collectors in Japan has started test production in livelihoods for the urban poor while (scavengers) and uplift them from severe zero energy use. The chemical recycling December 2017 and started commercial produces recycled polyester DMT and keeping plastic out of the ocean (see the poverty. operation in January 2019. HUB). MEG. The partnership plans to begin Plastics For Change is the first and In development: production in 2020. Seaqual is an initiative in Spain to clean currently the only rPET supplier certified

Back to Contents • 61 Recycled Polyester Supporting the transition

The Textile Exchange rPET Round Fashion Positive PLUS members Table (rPET RT) is a global multi- have identified chemical recycling as a stakeholder network aiming to increase necessary innovation for circular growth the uptake of recycled polyester. of polyester in apparel. The rPET Round Table has over 90 individual members from 56 companies/ Plastics for Change has adopted strategies from fair trade agricultural organizations. As we move into 2020, we are busy expanding our practices and applied them to the At the start of 2019, the rPET Round informal recycling economy in developing supplier matrix, on Legislation and Policy, Table formed three Working Groups to countries (more in the HUB). and establishing a new commitment to further “ grow the uptake of recycled polyester. Our aim is to dive deeper into key issues as we move toward 2030: transform business – moving from linear to circular, and to find solutions to technical, societal, and • Government: Legislation; Clear commercial barriers. We need to positively impact bottles; Collection; rPET mandatory % product content; Preferential , and overcome challenges in tariffs; factories, marketplace, and the communities where recycling initiatives start. Cross industry collaboration • Supply: Building a robust supplier will be key to establishing sustained growth. matrix; Standardizing chip quality; GRS use as baseline; economies. Elayne Masterson, Collaborating Partner, • Brands/Retailer/Consumer: Fabrikology | Chair of the rPET Round Table Development of a new industry commitment; Support for new technologies; Matching to products; Cross- industry collaborations; Consumer awareness; Campaigns to support multi sector use.

The rPET RT also initiated the Recycled Polyester Commitment in 2017. More on the page on Commitments to Preferred Polyester.

Back to Contents • 62 Biobased Polyester Facts and figures

The market share of biobased polyester Supporting the transition is estimated at less than one percent of the total polyester production(1). Textile Exchange Biosynthetics Working Group is a multi-stakeholder Biobased polyesters include biobased initiative with the objective to support PET but also other polyesters such as the knowledge, understanding and PLA or biobased PTT. Further examples development of biosynthetics for the are shown in the Innovation section. textile industry. Textile Exchange launched the new website aboutbiosynthetics.org Sustainability advantages and in 2018 which focuses on textiles made challenges from sugars, biomass and plant oils. Also Biobased polyester is a renewable a Quick Guide to Biosynthetics was alternative to fossil-based polyester, published in the beginning of 2018. particularly as the future availability and FIBFAB is a EU Horizon 2020 project stability of oil becomes a higher risk. that aims to industrialize the production of It can also play an important role in biodegradable and sustainable polylactic combating climate change. Biobased acid (PLA) based fabrics (wool/PLA and polyester is not, purely by definition, cotton/PLA) and to overcome the current sustainable or preferred. Agriculture limitations of PLA fibers. and forestry can drive biodiversity degradation and combat food if not managed well. Key to the successful and sustainable development and deployment of a biobased economy will be innovation in feedstocks that do not compete with food production, that are not dependent on high inputs of water or agrichemicals in agriculture, and that are produced through a responsible governance of land, and management of natural resources(2).

(1) estimate based on European 2019 - Bioplastics Market Data 2018 and global polyester figures (see Global“ Fiber Market”). (2) Textile Exchange 2018 - Quick Guide to Biosynthetics.

Back to Contents Photo (right): Pixabay Public Domain • 63 Biobased Polyester Supplier innovation landscape

Fibers and yarns Teijin has developed ECO CIRCLE™ DuPont Sorona® is a partially biobased Virent offers its BioFormPX® paraxylene Plantfiber, a 30 percent biobased PET PTT polyester with 37 percent made from sugars. Virent completed a Far Eastern`s TopGreen® Bio PET derived from sugarcane. renewably sourced, plant-based content year long run of a demonstration plant Filament is bPET filament made with by weight made from corn sugar (more in in 2017/18 which demonstrates the 30 percent biobased feedstock from Toray`s Ecodear® PET is a 30 percent the HUB). technology to convert plant sugars to sugarcane (more in the HUB). plant-based polyester fiber derived from bio-paraxylene, a key raw material for bio- sugarcane. Toray also offers a 30 percent Gevo has developed fully renewable polyester fiber (more in the HUB). Far Eastern also offers biobased PTT and plant-based Ecodear® PTT and a 100 carbon-based para-, a key biobased PLA made with NatureWorks percent biobased PLA filament. ingredient to convert petro-based ™ which is made from corn. polyester for fibers and bottles to 100 Trevira, an percent renewable content. In 2018 INVISTA launched LYCRA® company, offers biobased PLA fibers T400® EcoMade fiber. More than 65 and filaments made with Nature Works Indorama offers a Bio-PET resin made percent of the overall fiber content LLC Ingeo™ which is made from with 30 percent plant-based bio-MEG. comes from a combination of chemically (corn). recycled plastics (PET bottles) and Natureworks manufactures its renewable plant-based resources (corn) Chemicals Ingeo™ branded (PLA) (more in the HUB). to manufacture plastics and fibers. Avantium started the construction of Ingeo™ is currently derived from corn, Materials is developing a bio-MEG demonstration plant in the cassava, sugar cane or beets. In 2019, process to produce PHA biopolymers Netherlands. NatureWorks announced its commitment from waste biogas (methane) via a that 100 percent of its agricultural microbial process. Anellotech is a USA based company producing biobased paraxylene. feedstock used for Ingeo will be ISCC Palmetto offers biobased PLA staple Plus certified by 2020. The Natureworks fiber made with NatureWorks Ingeo® Braskem and Haldor Topsoe R&D team is also working on a new which is derived from corn. announced a partnership in 2017 technology to skip plants entirely. to validate the MOSAIK™ sugar-to- Radici`s CornLeaf is a filament yarn biochemicals solution for production of based on Ingeo™ PLA biopolymer which bio-MEG in a demonstration plant. is made from corn.

Back to Contents • 64 Commitments to Preferred Polyester Examples

Commitments to Recycled Polyester Among the suppliers that have expressed their support for the brands and retailers In 2017, the rPET Round Table created participating in the rPET challenge are a Recycled Polyester Commitment Geetanjali , Haiyan Haili Green to encourage brands and retailers to Fiber, Nan Ya Plastics Corporation, publicly commit to accelerating their use Applied DNA Sciences, gr3n, Hallotex of recycled polyester by 25 percent by S.L., Hussain Mills Limited, Orimpex NUMBER OF COMPANIES THAT SIGNED THE rPET COMMITMENT 2020. The rPET Round Table is delighted Tekstil Ltd.Sti, Pettenati Centro America, to report that the target Polygenta/Perpetual, Pratibha Syntex Pvt. was reached two years early, in 2018, Ltd., PSP India, Unifi, Inc., Recyctex Co., when the combined rPET use of the Ltd., rePATRN and Worn Again. commitment signatories grew by 36%. October 29 11 8 Industry organizations that expressed 2017 The number of brands and retailers that their support are Chetana Society, Circle publicly committed to increase their use of Economy, GreenBlue, Japan Organic rPET by at least 25 percent by 2020 grew Cotton Association/JOCA, Plastics For October 38 16 8 from 29 in October 2017 to 38 in October Change, Pre Organic Cotton Program 2018 2018. (ITOCHU/ KURKKU, Sustainable Brands that have signed the commitment Furnishings Council and Thread International. as of the Textile Exchange Conference Brands/retailers Suppliers Industry organizations in October 2018 are AB Lindex, Commitments to Biobased Polyester Adidas, Aldi-Nord, Bluey Australia Pty Ltd., Aventura Clothing/Sportif USA, A survey by Textile Exchange revealed that Dedicated, Burton Snowboards, Dibella, their is a growing interest in biosynthetics. EILEEN FISHER, Inc., Esprit Europe Public commitments to biobased polyester Services GmbH, Gap Inc., H&M, IKEA, are still very rare. ITC Accessories, ITOCHUKALANI S.A., Kastlfel, Kurkku, Mantis World, Mara In 2019, NatureWorks announced its Hoffman, Indigenous Designs, MEC, commitment that 100 percent of its Metawear, Mini Rodini, Norrøna Sport AS, agricultural feedstock used for Ingeo will Outerknown, Kathmandu, Skunkfunk, be ISCC Plus certified by 2020. Target, Taylor Home & Limited, Teva, Timberland, Toad & Company, Volcom Inc., Nike, Inc., West Point Home, Ohmme and Under the Canopy.

Back to Contents • 65 Polyamide

Photo: NOAA Coral Reef Ecosystem Program, CC BY-SA 2.0

Back to Contents • 66 Recycled Polyamide Production facts and figures GLOBAL MARKET SHARE OF POLYAMIDE IN 2018

With around 5.4 million mt (1), scraps. Post-consumer polyamide is polyamide had a market share of made from materials such as discarded Polyamide (~5.0%) around 5 percent of the global fiber nets, carpets, or other used production market in 2018(2). textiles. The recycling process can be mechanical or chemical. Global polyamide production increased ~107 from 3.74 million mt in 1990(3) to 5.4 Main standards used for recycled million mt million mt in 2018(1). polyamide include the GRS, RCS and SCS RC. The market share of recycled polyamide is difficult to estimate. Reliable numbers The recycling of polyamide helps to on the global recycled polyamide decrease dependency on fossil based production volume are currently not raw materials and to reduce the waste 5+95+F publicly available. As polyamide is more material. Aquafil estimates that 70,000 difficult to recycle than polyester, the of oil are saved per 10,000 mt of market share of recycled polyamide is regenerated caprolactam(4). GLOBAL POLYAMIDE PRODUCTION (MILLION MT) much lower than the one of recycled polyester. 6 5.40 Recycled polyamide can be produced from pre- or post-consumer waste. 5 Pre-consumer waste may be processing 4.50 4.12 3.97 3.8 4 3.74 3.74

3

2

1

0 (1) Oerlikon based on The Fiber Year 2019 - published at ITMA. 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 2018 (2) Global fiber compilation by Textile Exchange based on various sources (see chapter on the Global“ Fiber Market”). (3) IVC website. (4) Aquafil website: http://www.econyl.com/de/the-process/.

Back to Contents • 67 Recycled Polyamide Tip: How to find suppliers of recycled polyamide. Directory: Key suppliers and innovators Check out the Textile Exchange database for a list of certified suppliers. Textile Exchange members can also find Supplier Snapshots in theTextile Exchange HUB. This map locates key suppliers and innovators producing recycled polyamide by headquarter. All polyamide is mechanically recycled from pre-consumer waste unless indicated otherwise.

USA SOUTH KOREA • Premiere - EcoInnovationFiber™ • Unifi - REPREVE® • Hyosung - Mipan Regen™

JAPAN • Toray - CYCLEAD™

SPAIN • Nurel - Reco ®

TAIWAN • Chain Yarn - Chainlon Greenlon® Re • Far Eastern - FEFC® eco • Formosa - Sunylon

Innovation beyond mechanical recycling of ITALY ISRAEL pre-consumer materials • Aquafil - ECONYL® • Nilit - Ecocare Chemical recycling • De Martini Bayart & Textifibra Fishing nets • Fulgar - Q-NOVA® Post-consumer textiles Other feedstock Fairness

Back to Contents • 68 Biobased Polyamide Introduction and supplier innovation landscape

The global production capacity for apparel (ready to wear, technical wear, biobased polyamide is around 0.24 , intimatewear), and for home million mt(1). It is estimated that the share interiors. of biobased polyamide fibers is less than 1 percent of the polyamide fiber market(1). Toray’s ECODEAR® PA 6.10 is a biobased polyamide filament derived from Biobased polyamide is at least partially castor bean. made from renewable resources, helping to reduce dependency on oil. It Chemicals and resins is not, purely by definition, sustainable Aquafil and Genomatica have or preferred. Further impact areas such announced a multi-year agreement to as competition with food, the use of create sustainable caprolactam, a key agrochemicals, and the governance of ingredient to producing 100 percent land have to be taken into account. sustainable polyamide. This development Fibers and yarns is part of the “Project EFFECTIVE”.

Cathay’s TERRYL® is a biobased Arkema’s Rilsan® is a polyamide 11 polyamide line offering PA56, PA510, resin produced from 100 percent castor PA512, PA514 and co- chips oil. and filament with 31–100 percent DSM`s EcoPaXX® is a 70 percent renewable shares. biobased polyamide (PA410) resin Fulgar’s EVO® is a 100 percent derived from castor bean plant. biobased polyamide yarn made from Evonik and BioAmber have a long castor oil. term agreement for the development RadiciGroup’s Biofeel® is a 100 and manufacturing of catalysts for percent biobased polyamide yarn derived making BDO (1,4- butanediol), THF from renewable, non-food plant sources. (tetrahydrofurane) and GBL (gamma – butyrolactone) from biobased succinic RadiciGroup’s dorix® 6.10 is 64 acid. percent biobased polyamide staple fiber. Virent’s BioFormBZ®Benzene can be RadiciGroup’s Radilon® 6.10 is a 64 used for the production of polyamide percent biobased polyamide yarn for (more in the HUB).

(1) European Bioplastics 2018 - Bioplastics Market Data 2018. Compared to the global fiber production volume compiled by Textile Exchange based on various sources (see chapter on “Global Fiber Production”).

Back to Contents Photo (right): Wikimedia CC0 • 69 Commitments to Preferred Polyamide Examples

Brands and retailers are starting to make Prada has published their goal of public commitments to replace virgin converting all Prada virgin nylon into polyamide with recycled polyamide. regenerated nylon ECONYL® by the end of 2021. More information here. Examples: StellaMcCartney has the goal to stop Brookes Running is committed to use using virgin nylon by 2021. To do so, 100% recycled nylon fiber by 2023. More they are replacing all virgin nylon with information here. ECONYL® regenerated nylon. More H&M is committed to use only 100% information here. recycled or other sustainably sourced Volcom is committed to increase their materials including recycled nylon. More share of recycled nylon to 20% by 2020. information here. More information here. Norrona has the goal that 75% of their nylon should be recycled in 2020. More information here.

Synthetic materials, such as nylon and polyester, can – and should – be recycled and come from recycled “ sources.

Stella McCartney (1)

(1) StellaMcCartney Website. Link here.

Back to Contents • 70 Other Manmade Fibers

Photo: Tyton Biosciences

Back to Contents • 71 Recycled Fiber from Blended Textiles Overview

Many textiles produced today are and polyester from polycotton blends fiber blends. Fiber blends recycling is in October 2019. The project started particularly challenging due to the mix of in autumn 2019 with 30 mt of cotton materials, such as cotton and polyester. derived from used textiles added to their Thanks to a few innovative startups, there wood-derived pulp in their mill in Mörrum, is the prospect that high value fiber blend Sweden. Södra is looking for partners to recycling will be possible soon. help increase the recycled share in their pulp from the current 3 percent to around Chemical recycling 20–30 percent. Södra is also exploring BlockTexx owns proprietary technology a decolouring solution, possibilities to that separates polyester and cotton extract products from the polyester, and materials such as clothes, sheets and the use of used MMCF textiles. of any colour or condition back Tyton Biosciences can recycle polyester into their high value raw materials of PET or poly-cotton blends into the building and cellulose for reuse as new products blocks of virgin-grade polyester. The for all industries (more in the Q&A). chemical process reduces polyester The Hong Kong Research Institute to its monomers ( and of Textiles and Apparel (HKRITA) - in glycol). collaboration with the H&M Foundation Worn Again Technologies’ patented - has developed a hydrothermal method process can separate, decontaminate using heat, water and green chemicals and extract polyester polymers and for recycling cotton and polyester cellulose (from cotton) from non-reusable blends. A new pre-industrial size facility textiles, as well as plastic bottles and scaling this technology was opened in packaging, to go back into new products September 2018. as part of a repeatable process.

Mistra Future Fashion`s Blend Mechanical recycling Re:Wind is a Swedish process for the recycling of poly-cotton blended textiles. Novetex opened its Novetex Cotton is turned into new high quality Factory in Hong Kong in September viscose filaments and polyester into two 2018 for mechanical fiber-to-fiber pure new monomers. recycling. The technology was developed in collaboration with HKRITA and H&M Södra announced its new solution Foundation and can recycle post- called Once More to separate cotton consumer fiber blends.

Back to Contents Photo (right): Tyton Biosciences • 72 Recycled CO2 based fibers Overview

Addressing climate change is one of the NatureWorks is currently using plants to most urgent action areas for the textile capture and sequester CO2 into long- industry. A few companies are exploring chain sugar molecules and its PLA called innovative approaches to recycle carbon ingeo. Their R&D team is assessing and directly use it as feedstock for new technology to skip plants and textiles. use microorganisms to directly convert greenhouse gases into . More Examples information here.

Covestro and its partners, foremost the NewLight is working on a technology to Institute of Textile Technology at RWTH turn greenhouse gases into aircarbonTM, Aachen University and various textile a material that can be melted and manufacturers, announced in July 2019 forged into fibers and solid parts. More that they have succeeded in making information here. textile fibers based on CO2 and so partly replacing crude oil as a raw material. More information here.

LanzaTech is developing a carbon recycling technology. Their aim is to create clothing like from the CO2 emissions from a mill. LanzaTech calls these products “CarbonSmart™”. More information here.

The CO2-based material could be a sustainable alternative “ to conventional elastic fibers in the near future. Professor Thomas Gries, Director of the Institute of Textile Technology at RWTH Aachen University (L)

(1) Covestro July 2, 2019 Press Release “Dress with CO2”. More information here.

Back to Contents Photo (right): Covestro • 73 Other Recycled or Biobased Fibers Overview

There are a number of further examples Biobased of recycled or biobased manmade fibers. Please note that not all biobased Dupont’s Susterra® propanediol is fibers are, by definition, sustainable or 100% corn-based building block for a preferred. Further research is required variety of polyurethane applications (more in order to holistically assess their in the HUB). sustainability profiles. Biobased manmade protein fibers

Recycled elastane AMSilk Biosteel® is a biobased protein Asahi Kasei`s Roica™ launched its fiber produced in a continuous first GRS certified recycled elastane, process. polyurethane filament, in 2016. Bolt Threads’ Microsilk is a biobased Sheico Group`s Sheiflex® is a recycled manmade “spidersilk” primarily made of which received its GRS sugar, water, and yeast. certification in 2017. Kraig Biokraft is a protein fiber made Recyclable PDK by genetically engineered silkworms and composed entirely of protein produced A team of researchers at the naturally by the silkworm. U.S. Berkeley Lab has designed a new recyclable plastic called Spiber is a protein based material made poly(diketoenamine), or PDK, that can through fermentation. be disassembled into its constituent Biopolymer made from algae parts at the molecular level, and then reassembled again and again. Algiknit is a biobased material made from the kelp. Biobased elastane

In 2014 INVISTA introduced T162R LYCRA® fiber, a 70 percent biobased elastane derived from corn. INVISTA is currently exploring whether the market for this product has changed since then and whether there is growing demand.

Back to Contents • 74 Sustainability Standards & Traceability

Back to Contents • 75 Sustainability Standards

Beyond fiber specific standards OCS GOTS 5,000 6,000 5,760 4,226 5,024 The previous chapters in this report provide The two leading standards for textiles 4,000 3,661 3,643 3,458 4,104 an overview of the most important fiber made with recycled materials are growing 3,174 4,000 3,663 3,814 3,000 specific standards such as cotton, wool particularly fast. and down standards. 2,000 The number of RCS certified facilities 2,000 Beyond the fiber specific standards, there increased from 78 in 2015 to 689 in 2018. 1,000 are a variety of standards that can be Since July 2018, the new Recycled Claim 0 0 used for various fiber types. Examples are Standard 2.0 is in effect. This new version 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 the traceability standard Content Claim was released in 2017. A key change is Standard (CCS), standards for organic the introduction of the Reclaimed Materials materials such as Organic Content Supplier Agreement. This document RCS GRS Standard (OCS) and the Global Organic provides more visibility to the suppliers of 1,926 Textile Standard (GOTS) and standards for reclaimed materials. Guidelines have also 750 689 2,000 recycled materials such as the Recycled been introduced for added clarity and 505 1,500 1,376 Claim Standard (RCS), the Global Recycled consistency of recycling claims, including 500 Standard (GRS) or the SCS Recycled pre- and post-consumer. 1,000 943 Content (RC) Standard. 649 The number of GRS certified facilities 250 220 595 500 As leading standards for organic textiles, increased from 649 in 2014 to 1,926 in 78 the OCS and GOTS standards both further 2018. The revised version of the GRS 0 0 expanded their market. was released in parallel to the updated 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 RCS version in 2017 and has been The number of OCS certified facilities in effect since July 2018: the Global increased from 3,174 in 2014 to 4,226 in Recycled Standard 4.0. A key change is CCS 2018. Textile Exchange launched a revision the adoption of ZDHC’s Manufacturing 50 of the Organic Content Standard 2.0 in Restricted Substance List v1.1 (MRSL) 46 47 2019. This revision is running from April that will replace GRS’s previous Prohibited 40 2019 to April 2020. Substance List. Other changes and 30 The number of GOTS certified facilities additions include new examples of accepted recycled inputs, updated 20 increased from 3,663 in 2014 to 5,760 in 13 13 wastewater limits, and clarifications. 2018. GOTS version 5.0 is due for revision 10 6 in 2019, the formal GOTS 6.0 revision The number of CCS certified facilities 0 process commenced in March 2019. increased from 6 in 2014 to 47 in 2018. 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 GOTS version 6.0 is scheduled to be released in spring 2020.

Back to Contents • 76 Traceability Systems Innovation

New technologies and approaches to sequencing, and on-product markers DNA-based traceability traceabilty are being piloted. for organic cotton, the pilot is promising opportunities to dramatically Spain-based down and feather Blockchain-based traceability boost traceability in the fashion industry. company Navarpluma and Applied DNA Science announced in Birla Cellulose pioneered a unique block The pilot was created through a partnership between Fashion for Good, September 2019 their partnership chain traceability system where customer to apply the DNA based traceability brands have visibility of their supply C&A Foundation, the Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA), and lead technical solution to the down supply chain for chain from forest to . Developed the first time. with Microsoft team and first to launch partner, Bext360. The first phase was such a high tech system, the business made possible with the technical support Haelixa, also part of the Organic Cotton now has partnerships across the chain of Haelixa, Tailorlux, InCode Technologies Traceability Pilot, has developed a DNA who actively work on sustainability in and Pratibha Syntex, and the additional marker technology to products in their processes. With a code, the brands support of Kering, Zalando, PVH Corp., supply chains. can see the supply chain from Tier 1 and C&A (more here). Data analysis and learning garmenter to Tier 6 pulp to forest source. Lenzing announced a partnership with Liva Eco campaign using a block chain Hong Kong based TextileGenesis™ Google and StellaMcCartney launched platform with consumers has been in June 2019. TextileGenesis™ is a a pilot in May 2019 to measure the appreciated by brands for higher sell blockchain enabled digital transparency environmental impacts of fashion, through and consumers for increased platform for the textile industry. First particularly at the raw material level. awareness, participation and usage of results were presented in September To start, a tool will be build that uses eco enhanced fiber based garments 2019. Lenzing expects the platform to be data analytics and machine learning on (access Q&A here). fully operational as of 2020. Google Cloud to give brands a more comprehensive view into their supply The Organic Cotton Traceability Pilot Waste2Wear, a brand of the China- is a pioneering project to revolutionize the chain, particularly at the level of raw based company Vision Textiles founded material production, referred to in the organic cotton supply chain, shedding by the Dutch Monique Maissan, a light on every step from the farmer industry as Tier 4 of the supply chain. launched the world’s first collection of The initial focus will be on cotton and to the consumer. Through a unique fabrics made from ocean plastics that combination of cutting-edge technologies viscose, each chosen due to the scale will be fully traceable using blockchain of their production, data availability and including blockchain, machine vision, technology in September 2019. artificial intelligence, micro-biome impact considerations (more here).

Back to Contents • 77 Impact Credits An innovative approach to creating impact

Impact Credits are essentially a mechanism While this means that brands cannot make for brands to deliver their expectations any content claims on their products, they back to the start of the supply chain and can by-pass the cost and complexity of provide financial rewards to incentivize long or opaque supply chains in order them. to deliver impact quickly and efficiently. And they can still make claims about their Impact Credits refer to the certificates that support for best practices. are traded in support of a sustainability claim. The credits are issued when a set of Impact Credits are a powerful tool to criteria have been confirmed to have been bypass long and complex supply chains, met. The physical and the credits and to address the price conundrum that are traded separately from each other. The often inhibits the widescale adoption of credit certificates represent a specified full traceability standards. They provide a quantity of verified material that has been fast and efficient means to build up more produced but has not been physically sustainable supply, and drive the scale traded as verified goods. of impact that is needed to address the world’s issues. The way they work is quite simple; farms that meet the standard or benchmark will be able to sell credits for their volume of output, and brands can purchase these credits to balance out their use of these output materials. The farms selling the credits may or may not be in the supply chain of the brands, as the credit trading system does not address any traceability.

Back to Contents • 78 Mega Trends

Back to Contents • 79 Sustainable Development Goals Who is doing what

The Sustainable Development Goals Fashion Industry Charter for Climate (SDGs) - a set of 17 universally Action is industry-led and driven effort. agreed-upon goals addressing the Brands, suppliers, NGOs and industry top current environmental, social and associations, convened by the UN economic issues - offer many business Climate Change, developed a climate opportunities for companies while action agenda for fashion. In December addressing critical operational risks. 2018, 43 founding signatories publicly announced their commitments at a high- To support the industry with their SDG level event hosted by the UN Climate journey, Textile Exchange launched the Change at COP24 (more in the Q&A). online platform TextilesforSDGs.org in 2018. The UN Alliance for is an initiative of United Nations KPMG and Textile Exchange have agencies and allied organizations partnered on a report entitled “Threading designed to contribute to the Sustainable the Needle: Weaving the SDGs into Development Goals through coordinated the textile, retail and apparel industry”, action in the fashion sector. Specifically, published in 2018. A culmination of the Alliance works to support industry interviews, NGO inputs, and coordination between UN bodies working desk research, the report highlights in fashion and promoting projects and shared value examples for companies in policies that ensure that the fashion value the sector grappling with how to integrate chain contributes to the achievement the SDGs into their core business and of the Sustainable Development Goals’ global supply chain. targets. Textile Exchange also encourages companies to consider participating in Textile Exchange’s Corporate Fiber and Materials Benchmark program to evaluate not only their preferred fiber and material usage and its direct SDG impacts but also their corporate responsibility implementation. For additional information, please view our Benchmark Framework.

Back to Contents • 80 Circular Economy Who is doing what

It is estimated that less than one The Cradle to Cradle Products demonstrate a better way for the fashion percent of all clothing is recycled back Innovation Institute, a non-profit industry to work that allows companies, into clothing(1). organization, administers the Cradle to communities, and the planet to flourish <1% Cradle Certified™ Product Standard, (more in the Q&A). Fiber-to-fiber The amount of global textile production which was gifted to the institute by its recycling of clothing (1) and consumption is increasing. Around founders, William McDonough and Dr. Fashion Positive Plus is a group 48 million mt of clothes are disposed Michael Braungart, in 2010. of apparel brands committed to the annually, with around 75 percent of them development and adoption of materials landfilled or incinerated(1). Ellen MacArthur Foundation (EMF) has designed to provide the foundation of a launched the Circular Fibres Initiative in circular economy for fashion. Initiatives supporting the transition May 2017 at the Copenhagen Fashion The Global Fashion Agenda 2020 Textile Exchange supports the industry’s Summit and published the research ~12.5% report “A New Textiles Economy: Circular Fashion System Commitment, move towards circular economy through a call by the Global Fashion Agenda, of the global fashion Redesigning fashion’s future” at the market committed its membership network, facilitation had been signed by 94 companies, of exchange, publications, the Global end of 2017. One year later, at the to circularity (2) 2018 Copenhagen Fashion Summit, representing 12.5 percent of the global Recycled Standard (GRS) and Recycled fashion market by June 2018. The Claim Standard (RCS) and through the Circular Fibres Initiative entered its second phase: Make Fashion Circular. companies have committed to take benchmarking via the Corporate Fiber action on one or more of four immediate and Materials Benchmark (CFMB). The European Clothing Action Plan action points - one being to increase the (2) Circle Economy’s Circle Textile Program (ECAP) is a €3.6 million EU LIFE funded use of post-consumer recycled fibers . develops the systems innovations project which aims to reduce clothing ~48 million mt necessary for the transition towards waste across Europe and embed a circular economy approach. The project of clothes disposed a circular textile industry. One of annually (1) the flagship initiatives is Fibersort, a ran for three and a half years and ended technology able to automatically sort in March 2019. large volumes of mixed post-consumer Fashion for Good is a global initiative textiles based on fiber composition. that reimagines how fashion is designed, The first Fibersort production started in made, worn, and reused. Through February 2018. innovation and practical action, they ~75% of disposed clothing landfilled or incinerated (1)

(1) Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2017) - A New Textiles Economy (2) http://www.globalfashionagenda.com/commitment/#

Back to Contents • 81 Circular Economy Service providers

It is estimated that around 75 percent TEXAID offers with its in-shop collection The Renewal Workshop takes of disposed clothes are landfilled system at selected clothes stores the discarded apparel and textiles and turns or incinerated, and only 25 percent possibility of handing in used clothes them into Renewed Apparel, upcycled collected for reuse or recycling. This where they are sold – in shops. TEXAID materials or recycling feedstock. Data is equals 35 million mt of post consumer collects, sorts and recycles left-over collected on everything that flows through clothes and one million mt of retailer stock, remnants and other textile waste the system and is given back to the overstock landfilled or incinerated per in order to obtain raw materials for new brand partners to help them improve the year(1). A few innovative service providers uses. TEXAID can utilize high-quality production and of future products. support brands and retailers to maximize goods all over the world, which means the reutilization of their unsold or used that there is no additional competition for Yerdle supports brands to buy back and textiles and reappraise them as valuable retailers and manufacturers on their own resell used items by providing technology secondary raw material. market. and logistics to develop white-label resale programs. Examples & Vogue is a wholesale supplier & buyer of used goods & store returns The reGAIN app supports users to pack I:CO, short for I:Collect, is a global across North America, with international unwanted clothes into a or bag, then, solutions provider for collection, reuse shipping. Bank & Vogue started with with the help of the app, find the nearest and recycling of used clothing and the desire to provide a service to the drop off point and print a shipping label. shoes. I:CO’s take-back system and Salvation Army and has since grown into After dropping the package off, the app logistics network collects clothing and something much larger. They operate unlocks discount coupons which give the shoes through in-store in more their own chain of stores, Beyond Retro, user a discount at reGAIN’s partners. than 60 countries, sorts the items and that sells vintage and upcycled clothing. either reuses or recycles them ensuring Credential clothing ( of unsorted maximum reutilization of these valuable clothes from donations & unsold materials. inventory from stores) is sent to places where they can find a second life.

(1) Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2017) - A New Textiles Economy.

Back to Contents • 82 Bio Economy Supporting the transition to a Bio Economy

It is estimated that around 48 million and the microsite update. mt of oil feedstock are used for the The Biosynthetics Round Table also global production per started an Biosynthetics e-Learning year(1). Another seven million mt of oil Series where different sustainability feedstock are used for the production of standards and initiatives present their synthetic and 200.000 mt for work. the production of synthetic (1). A sustainable bioeconomy together with a If you are interested to join the move to a circular economy can support Biosynthetic Working Group, please the transition towards a fossil-free future contact [email protected]. and play an important role in addressing A Textile Exchange Biosynthetics climate change. Survey conducted in 2018 with 138 Textile Exchange’s Biosynthetics participants revealed a growing interest Round Table kicked off in 2016. The first in biosynthetics. Brands and suppliers task of the Biosynthetics Round Table are exploring biobased materials as has been to research and create the interesting alternative to fossil-based microsite: AboutBiosynthetics.org. It has synthetics. involved the gathering and synthesis of available information and resources on biosynthetics, with the goal of enabling this relatively new material to become a larger part of a company’s PFM portfolio. biov8tion has been leading this project and Virent has been a key provider of input and support. An important next step will be the definition of “preferred” biosynthetics.

In 2018, the Biosynthetics Roundtable formed two Working Groups: one focusing on the sustainability of biosynthetics and the other one on

(1) Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2017) - A New Textiles Economy.

Back to Contents • 83 Microfibers Spotlights

Microplastics continue to be a hot spot manufacturers and NGOs initiated a Sporting Goods Industry e.V. / BSI issue. It is estimated that another 22 project on microfibers, evaluating the and supported by adidas, Henkel, million mt of microfibers will be added fate, effects and mitigation measures Hochschule Niederrhein, Miele, to the ocean between 2015 and for microplastic fiber pollution in aquatic Polartec, TU Dresden, Vaude and WWF 2050(1). The annual amount of primary environments. Germany. released from textiles is estimated at 190,000 mt per annum(2). Campaigns Innovative solutions 190,000 mt Proposals for textile labeling regulation The Women`s Insistute (WI), a UK The Cora Ball is a new kind of laundry based organization, launched the End ball. Inspired by the way coral filters the of primary microplastics In the two USA states California and Plastic Soup campaign in 2017 to protect ocean, the Cora Ball aims to collect from textiles per year (2) Connecticut, proposals were made the ocean from contaminating micro microfibers into fuzz we can see, so we suggesting additional labeling of synthetic plastic fibers. can dispose of microfibers in the right textiles to alert consumers about the way. issue. Initiatives Guppyfriend washing bag is a Reports and studies The European Outdoor Group (EOG) patented solution that aims to filter out has formed a Microfibers Consortium. microfibers released from textiles during SIFO published a report “Microplastic The Consortium is designed to build a washing. The fabric bag is made of a pollution from textiles: A literature review” collaborative approach to address, and specially designed micro-filter material in early 2018. align on the emerging need for a better allowing users to collect and dispose understanding of microfiber pollution. the fibers after laundry. published a report called The ultimate aim is to develop a better “Microplastics and persistent fluorinated understanding of microfiber shedding The Filtrol is an affordable, easy to chemicals in the Antarctic” in June 2018. and to work towards concrete solutions. install filter. It stops microfibers as they An additional The European Outdoor Group has Member of the Consortium include: leave the washing machine and makes initiated a new project to compare the biov8tion, the University of Leeds (UK), it easy to put them into the trash. 22 million mt The North Face, Marks & Spencer, and impacts of recycled and virgin polyester Xeros introduced a filtration innovation between 2015 to 2050 and nylon on synthetic textile microfiber Norrøna. called XFiltra™ which is compatible with if no action (1) pollution. Another project aims to The three-year project “TextileMission” any home washing machine to protect understand how textile coloration could (2017–2020) to combat the microfiber the environment from microfibers affect textile microfiber release. issue is funded by the German Federal created from home laundry. SINTEF and the research institutes Ministry for Education and Research. NTNU and Sichuan University together The project is coordinated by the Federal Association of the German (1) Ellen MacArthur Foundation 2017 - A New Textiles Economy. with Norwegian brands, textile (2) Eunomia 2016 - Plastics in the Marine Environment.

Back to Contents • 84 Methodology & Disclaimer

Back to Contents • 85 Methodology & Disclaimer

The Preferred Fiber and Materials Market working towards more sustainable production volumes, please see our preferred cotton options however, this Report contains 1) global production solutions. Textile Exchange has not Organic Cotton Market Report. report covers the 2017/18 figures as volumes of various fibers and materials, assessed the degree of sustainability these are the latest available data. 2) standard specific data such as the of the individual programs, initiatives or c) Production volume scope f) Methodological changes and number of certified sites or production products mentioned in this report. The production data in this report cover volumes per standard, as well as 3) a comparison to previous years 1. Global production volumes the total amount of fibers produced. The variety of news, updates, stories and report does not differentiate between Textile Exchange continuously improves quotes. The compilation of global market data different usages and is thus not specific its data collection methodology. Some Textile Exchange has collected, analyzed is challenging. The collection of primary to the apparel industry. The fibers may be data reported in previous years has been and compiled all this information in all data from the suppliers is beyond used for apparel, home textiles, technical revised or updated since the actual data good conscience and cross-checked the what is is possible within the scope of textiles or any other application. has become available for initial estimates this report, so we rely on secondary or the methodology has been improved. data and information whereever possible. d) Definition of fiber A guarantee for all the information is not data from industry associations, A simple comparison between previously given. This report is intended for general international organizations, governmental Fiber includes staple fiber and filament. reported numbers and data reported guidance and information purposes organizations, standard setters or All numbers reported on manmade in this year does not show the actual only. It is not the intention of the report research institutes. We are trying our cellulosics and synthetics include staple change over time but is caused by one of to be used or considered as advice or best to provide an accurate and reliable fiber and filament production volumes. the reasons mentioned above. recommendation in any direction. picture of the market but data gaps and inconsistencies are very common for e) Reporting period 2. Standard specific data The report covers the market for the global market data. Specific data sources The standard specific data such as the key fibers and materials including the are directly mentioned on the pages. The report focuses on the calendar year 2018 and provides trends if available. number of certified sites per standard conventional ones and examples of or production volumes are based on “preferred” options. Textile Exchange a) Data quality checks and As the cotton production volumes are triangulation collected in ICAC harvest years starting information collected from the standard describes a fiber or material as owners and initiatives. “preferred” if it is ecologically and/ from August 1 and ending on July 31, Textile Exchange tried to identify the most the cotton production volumes can be or socially progressive and has been reliable sources for each fiber category 3. News and narratives selected because it has more sustainable allocated to the calendar years in different and conducted triangulations with at ways. Most reports allocate the ICAC The news, updates, stories, quotes properties in comparison to conventional least 2–3 sources wherever possible. options. Textile Exchange acknowledges year which starts in a calendar year to the and narratives presented in the report In general all global market data are respective calendar year (e.g. 2017/18 are either based on information directly that there are a variety of different rounded estimates. approaches towards sustainability cotton production volumes to the 2017 received from the companies and and that this continuum evolves over b) Organic cotton data calendar year). Textile Exchange has organizations or their press releases or time. The report provides examples decided to follow this approach for the websites. They cover the time of the of programs, initiatives and products For a detailed description of the global production volume trend figures. reporting period up to the launch of the methodology behind the organic cotton When it comes to the breakdown of report.

Back to Contents • 86 Acknowledgements

We would like to extend our sincere gratitude to all that have contributed data and expertise for their continued and valuable cooperation, as well as to those who provided stories and photos, which really help to bring the report to life, particularly:

ABRAPA • Aditya Birla • AGL Polyfil • BASF e3 • BCI • BlockTexx • Carbios • Circular Systems • CIRFS • Cleaner Cotton • CmiA DBT Fiber • DNFI • Downpass • DuPont • Eastman • EcoBlue • European Confederation of Linen and Hemp • Ellen MacArthur Foundation European Outdoor Group • Fabrikology • Fashion For Good • Fashion Positive • Fairtrade International • FEFC • FENC • FibL • First Mile Flocus • FSC • Geentanjali Woollens • GOTS • Himalayan Wild Fibers • IDFL • Infinited Fiber • inserco • ISCC • Itochu • IVC • JB Ecotex Jeplan • Lenzing • Lycra • myBMP • Natural Fiber Welding • Nilit • Nurel • NSF • PEFC • Plastics for Change • Polygenta • Radici Group Re:down • REEL • • Sappi • SFI • Shaniko Wool Company • Spinnova • Sustainable Down Source • The Fiber Year Consulting ThreadTyton Biosciences • Ultrafabrics • UNFCCC • Unifi • Virent • Worn Again • Xingke • ZDHC

Report Production Team

Sophia Opperskalski With Support From Designed by SuetYin Siew Lisa Barsley Phil Bettany Evonne Tan Terry Hyde Liesl Truscott Simone Seisl

Back to Contents • 87 Textile Exchange envisions a global textile industry that protects and restores the environment and enhances lives. www.TextileExchange.org

For the latest news and trends in the organic cotton sector, check out Textile Exchange’s Organic Cotton Market Report 2019.

For the latest updates on brand and retailer fiber and materials-related activities, check out Textile Exchange’s Corporate Fiber & Materials Benchmark and its accompanying Insights Reports.

Back to Contents • 88