Trend Setters Industry Influencers in Design, Product Development & Textile Innovation

TRENDS IN APPAREL & FOOTWEAR DESIGN AND INNOVATION TEXTILEINSIGHT.COM

THE TREND SETTERS INDUSTRY INFLUENCERS IN DESIGN, PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT & TEXTILE INNOVATION. 2016 FOOTWEAR REPORT MILITARY OUTLOOK TECH INNOVATION SUPPLY CHAIN NEWS

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Executive Editor Mark Sullivan [email protected] 646-319-7878 Editor /Associate Publisher Emily Walzer emilywalzer@sbcglobal.net Managing Editor Cara Griffin Art Director Francis Klaess Associate Art Director Mary McGann

Contributing Editors Suzanne Blecher Kurt Gray Jennifer Ernst Beaudry Kathlyn Swantko

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Subscriptions store.formula4media.com Formula4 Media Publications 6 / In the Market 28 / Made in America Sports Insight A recap of seasonal trade fairs focused on active trends, Performance, price and delivery were top of mind at Outdoor Insight Footwear Insight denim and technical textiles along with reports on eco the recent Joint Advanced Planning Brief for Industry Inside Insight Team Insight developments, the latest retail openings, and news of ITG (JAPBI) event where attendees got both big picture Textile Insight acquired by Platinum Equity. perspective and category-specific information about a Running Insight Trend Insight range of military matters. sportstyle 16 / Tech PO Box 23-1318 Although sustainability remains a key factor, execs 30 / Supply Chain Great Neck , NY 11023 Phone: 516-305-4710 emphasize that biomaterial products and technologies are The next wave of apparel industrialization is upon us, Fax: 516-441-5692 www.formula4media.com now evolving to create better performance from the least with rapid-fire advances in digital integration, mass Textile Insight® is a registered trademark impact, and this bodes well for growth in the bio sector. customization and speed to market strategies. Writer of Formula4 Media, LLC. ©2016 All Debra Cobb reports on emerging supply chain models. rights reserved. The opinions expressed by authors and contributors to Textile 18 / Cover Story Insight are not necessarily those of the editors or publishers. Textile Insight is not This special section, our 5th annual directory, identifies 32 / Education responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, talented, forward-thinking individuals who are influencing Self-healing textile research shows promise at Penn photographs or artwork. Articles appearing in Textile Insight may not be the direction of the active/outdoor market with textile State University, according to writer Kathlyn Swantko reproduced in whole or in part without the express permission of the publisher. development and whiz-bang apparel, footwear, and who reports on a collaborative effort to create textiles Textile Insight is published bi-monthly: accessory product design. that can repair themselves, and neutralize chemicals. Jan/Feb; Mar/Apr; May/Jun; Jul/Aug; Sep/Oct; and Nov/Dec.

Subscriptions: one year, $24.00 26 / Footwear 34 / Out of Context (U.S. Funds) in the United States. All other Intriguing efforts in next-gen domestic footwear production Kurt Gray explains how having one foot in local countries, $54.00 (U.S. Funds). are taking shape. Here Jennifer Ernst Beaudry provides an manufacturing, and one foot in traditional street retail, Postmaster: Send address changes to Textile Insight, P.O. Box 23-1318 overview of how players in the shoe biz are innovating and has a certain magic to it. Great Neck, NY 11023 investing in new manufacturing methods. TEXTILE TALK | EMILY WALZER

Mark Twain, Tailor-Made Shirts and More

eople love the Fall season for all sorts of reasons—leaves changing color, football games, bingeing on Candy Corn, and the list goes on and on. But here at Textile Insight, the months of October and November mean spending time with top designers and product developers as we gather intel for our annual Trendsetters directory. For me, it’s an opportunity to hang with the cool kids; for a finite time PI’m part of this inner circle of creative types, learning their obsessions, laughing at off-beat comments, and listening to personal pet peeves. Every year I work on our Trendsetters feature, I enjoy the experience even more. How can I not when my interview questions include responses such as these: • Jonathan Cheung, head of global design, Levi’s on the best design advice he’s ever recieved: “Mark Twain summed it all up: Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did so. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.” • Craig Vanderoef, Global Category Manager, Running at Adidas, offered a brilliant description when asked about his signature look. “Most days you will see me in a dark slim fitting Italian suit, usually a superfine merino from Paul Smith or Gutteridge, that I pair with a light colored slim fit dress shirt with a wide spread collar. I have my shirts made by Leon at Beaux Tailor in Hong Kong because I am really particular about fabrics, fits, and finishing and Leon never lets me down.” And he’s just getting started. You’ll find these and a dozen other wonderful responses starting on Page 18. As everyone is well aware, change is in the air. At Textile Insight we take a positive approach, with articles that highlight innovation, technology and collaboration. Our Footwear and Supply Chain stories, for instance report on new manufacturing methods revolutionizing product development and delivery. Exciting change is also happening in the world of denim, as producers are giving the yoga pant trend a real run for its money. Louisa Smith’s Euro Report provides examples of movers and shakers advancing denim. This issue of Textile Insight is slated to land on your desk and/or your inbox as the holidays approach. I’d like to wish everyone happy times, and a year ahead that is defined by progress, equality and civility.

Cheers, Emily

FRESH IDEAS. INNOVATIVE MINDS. SUCCESSFUL SOLUTIONS.

Outdoor Retailer SIA Sourcing Snow Performance Days OUTDOOR ISPO

www.conceptiii.com U.S./Canada: [email protected] 732.530.1976 Europe: [email protected] +44.1756.702100

4 • Textile Insight ~ November/December 2016

IN THE MARKET | INTERFILIÈRE NEW YORK Leisure Leads the Way with Crossover Looks & Fabric Options. By Emily Walzer

Finding Common Ground

Eurovet Americas, a subsidiary of designed as streetwear and beach- Paris-based Eurovet, the trade fair wear, though not for swimming. combines textiles with market direc- Berry focused on innovation tion attracting a fashion and fabric surrounding sports bras. “Sports savvy crowd. bras are the racing cars of our Now in it’s fourth year, Interfilière industry,” she asserted. “Creative New York continues to grow and engineering is happening. The expand. According to show orga- sports bra is going into everyday nizers, the show attracted 500 wardrobe,” explained Berry who visitors—a 30 percent increase com- cited engineered jacquards, lamina- pared to 2015—from a multitude tion, spacer fabrics, body mapping of companies varying in size, rang- and influence from the hosiery ing from established, well known world as factors at play in today’s brands to young designers to meet marketplace. “It’s about the coming face-to-face with a select group of 40 together of sport, street and sexi- international mills. ness,” Berry concluded. The active space is taking hold Vendors expressed similar within Eurovet’s Interfilière shows ideas. “There is more and more and this aspect was a draw at the crossover happening. There are recent Manhattan gathering. Brands no boundaries anymore. It is tricky with an athleisure/sport point of for mills, but that is the trend,” view included A&H Sportswear, commented Sofileta’s sales director Brooks, Eastern Mountain Sports, Virginia Wittmer. Sofileta is a Espalier, Fila, Fitmama, Lululemon vertically integrated mill in France and Oiselle. known for fabrics suited for yoga, “Things are going in an active fitness and swim. The majority of direction, from silks and stretch Sofileta textiles are nylon with a lace, all textiles are finding performance collection known as opportunities in activewear,” Nylon Tech. “What’s important is Textile trend boards were a big hit with an you say “Leisuree?” stated Marie Mangeot, International the hand, the feel and the visual,” attendees, as was Invista’s fashion show What about Promotions, Eurovet Americas. said Wittmer. “Ninety-nine percent featuring active apparel made with Lycra. “Swimtimates?” These “Anybody can start a technical of the time this is the priority in a Cnew, descriptive hybrid conversation with the mills here.” purchase. Then we go to weight, buzzwords are evidence of the Vendors included 48 mills with functionality and tech specs.” strengthening crossover movement collections in intimates, swim and Markus Regenstein, CEO, of between market segments that is active. German mill Penn Textile Solutions, blurring the lines and de-classifying “The show is good,” commented explained how the company’s apparel categories. This “no Kelly Barrett, buyer for Australian expertise in modulus and compres- boundaries” approach is the company Star Corp Textiles. “I sion for intimates and shapewear latest tangent of the athleisure really liked the intimacy because has expanded to performance wear phenomena that industry execs you can have good conversations. with textiles targeted to cycling. In believe is here to stay. It is an example of quality over general, however, Regenstein com- “The element of leisure is the quantity,” added Barrett, who is mented, “everyone loves leisure. most important factor driving launching a line called Silent Arrow. This is desirable and happening change,” said Jos Berry, founder now in the market.” Examples of of Paris Concepts. “Women are Innovation with No Boundaries Penn TS textiles on trend include: building another kind of wardrobe “Athleisure Fun” was one of a new knitting technology to create from apparel not designated in Berry’s “6 Trends Not to Miss” in softness against the skin with a specific categories anymore. Think her morning keynote. She discussed brushed effect shown in an athlei- of lace with a sport top. There is today’s crossover trend, giving sure style pant; a double jersey for this need to be casual in all different rise to new classifications such as jackets that can be printed; and a ways,” Berry surmised. Leisuree—the combination of lei- new power lace with 2-way stretch Berry shared these and other sure with lingerie, with components using Micro-Modal cotton for sport observations during her Global of beach, ready-to-wear and lounge- bras. “We came from intimate to Trend Overview presentation at wear. Another new classification, elite and are now crossing over to Interfilière New York. Produced by Swimtimates, signifies a garment both,” Regenstein explained. O

6 • Textile Insight ~ November/December 2016 textileinsight.com Wear More. Wash Less® Polygiene Odor Control Technology

“It’s a silver salt fabric treatment that prevents your gear, like the multi-sport R1 Hoody [Patagonia], from stinking so you do not have to wash it as much. That extends the lifespan and shrinks the environmental impact (and simply keeps you from stinking). Triple win.” — GrindTV by Heather Hansman, March 2016

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polygiene.com IN THE MARKET | EURO REPORT Advances Deliver Innovation without Sacrificing Authenticity. By Louisa Smith

Reinventing Denim

engineering reactionary denim fit the fabric manufacturing. The pro- for all seasons in new super-light cess utilizes only 3.1 liters of water qualities. This move isn’t surprising per garment from raw fiber through as the international denim shows to the finished product. To address of Kingpins in New York and Denim the athleisure trend, Denim Active Premiere Vision Paris now clash on from Soorty offers second skin sil- the show calendar, the former high- houettes, moisture management, lighting Fall/Winter and the latter quick-dry qualities and recycled previewing Spring/Summer. Denim aspects by using CoolMax EcoMade, has reacted—delivering products derived from recycled bottles. (See worthy of all seasons. Page 12 for more details.) There is a strong sense of Naveena Denim Ltd (NDL) has tradition within the industry, launched a Fortified Denim collec- predominantly in the further devel- tion of durable denim fabrics using opment of indigo yarns. By using the Dyneema fiber. The properties indigo yarns in a variety of tones, of Dyneema enhance all aspects of new denim developments can be classic work wear denim without delivered with the authentic hue sacrificing comfort. as well as in innovative new denim Sculpted and streamlined looks structures. The mill Kumash Tekstil, on the denim front continue to fuel for instance, has developed a com- the trend for super stretch denim. plex woven jacquard incorporating Prosperity Textile has developed a different hues of indigo yarn, for an new collection, Trans-Form, incor- authentic denim camouflage look. porating creora Fit2 technology 496 Fabric Lab is offering an for 360-degree comfort and second indigo jacquard cut-out technique skin fit. The four-way stretch fabric with cotton and the Stratum is achieved through the innova- polyester yarn in the weft, which tive structure and the inclusion can have a 3D visual pattern of creora spandex/elastane in the morphing effect under different warp and weft of the fabric. lighting. Based on Air Textured A new collaboration between Yarn (ATY) technology, the unique Santoni, Tencel, Unitin and Tonello texturizing method also produces has launched under the name a layer of air between the skin and DEN/M, and combines comfort fabric for added comfort. attributes, sustainability, and an authentic denim look. The effort Trends in Lifestyle & Eco saves water and manufactur- The athleisure market hasn’t had ing time. The approach features as damaging an impact on denim Santoni’s brand-new machine SM8/ Floating surface effects from 496 Fabric enim is the doyenne as one might have expected. “If you EVO4J GG20 for developing authen- Lab, top; Carbonated blue denim from of reinvention when it can’t beat them, join them” is the tic denim that is seamless. Unitin Calik Denim, below. comes to textiles. The motto denim makers have pursued provides indigo-dyed cotton that Dfocus for Fall/Winter and it is paying off. For example, for eliminates the need to dye during 17/18 has become more technical, Spring/Summer 2018, Isko provides the garment process. Water-free fin- The athleisure not just in terms of denim finishes a new level of performance denim ishing from Tonello generates more market hasn’t had as but with innovation on the fiber for the activewear market under the savings in water. The inclusion of damaging an impact and yarn front as well. There is a name Isko Arquas, including denim Tencel gives single and double- special focus on the weft, and this blends with Cordura and CoolMax sided seamless denim a super soft on denim as one is expected to continue into Spring/ combined with water repellant and touch with a classic denim look. might have expected. Summer 2018. antibacterial qualities. The process results in a significant “If you can’t beat For the denim industry, the fabric Soorty has two new product reduction in waste. them, join them” is also becoming something of a developments that hit both the per- The passion for denim, from the is the motto denim revolutionary concept in the form formance and eco trends square on. global consumer and the industry of a season-less product; the latest The company has developed Zero that develops product, ensures that makers have pursued advances in fibers, from spinning Water Blue, a process that reduces this enthusiasm for denim innova- and it is paying off. to knits to wovens, are focused on water consumption by 90 percent in tion will continue. O

8 • Textile Insight ~ November/December 2016 textileinsight.com #CORDURATOUGH

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High Marks for Testing

he Industrial Fabrics Emiel DenHartog, PhD, cited the ging system that helps companies Association International many reasons to test textiles and guarantee that the materials they hosted the IFAI Expo 2016 the considerations for designing an specify are used in their products. T in Charlotte, NC recently. effective test plan. Scientists must “You want to know where your It had near-record attendance, understand how people really use a products come from but it’s just robust programming, and some product in order to create a lab test as important to know where they local flair. The October event fea- that predicts how the product will don’t come from,” said MeiLin Wan, tured three major areas—Advanced perform in real life. the company’s VP of Textile Sales. Textiles, Specialty Fabrics, and The International Antimicrobial For example, the PimaCott program Shade &Weather—along with a Council (ACI) illustrated this idea provides complete traceability of in a simple demonstration of California-grown Pima cotton from antimicrobial efficacy. Testers expe- field to shelf, reassuring manufac- rienced the smell of sour milk on an turers, retailers, and consumers antimicrobial enhanced textile and that their textiles do not contain on a control textile. They then saw “conflict cotton” or other fibers the corresponding test results. “We that raise environmental and social started with the real life benefit of concerns. The company is also better smelling products and linked designing technology for quick veri- that back to the lab reports,” said fication of tagged cotton at the mill. Jaime Rutledge, IAC Technology Hohenstein Institute applied its Director. The IAC will soon put a scientific expertise to develop an mobile laboratory on the road to affordable, portable 3D scanner that help more clients around the coun- will become an important tool for try make that connection. reducing the time, resources, and SuperFabric applied the same for- expenses of custom fitting many ward thinking to the antimicrobial people in a short time. The tablet- products the company is develop- based technology scans a person in ing for healthcare. SuperFabric 15 seconds and creates a 3D image products are coated with tiny resin that can be sized just as reliably as plates that make the fabric cut hand measuring or trying on sample and abrasion resistant, important garments. “Currently large outfit- attributes for military, footwear, ters deploy measuring teams who and industrial customers. An anti- haul around heavy sample sets that microbial additive increases airflow, have to be laundered between fit- resulting in a unique fabric for bed- tings,” explained Hohenstein’s Dr. ding and seat covers in healthcare Jan Beringer who demonstrated facilities. the technology. “With this scanner, companies can streamline and Applied DNA Sciences VP of Textiles reception staged at the nearby Textiles from Beginning to End simplify the outfitting process.” MeiLin Wan with colleague at the NASCAR Hall of Fame. Beginning with the end in mind Hohenstein is working with a textile company’s booth, top. Jan Beringer of Attendees got to experience tex- is a fundamental sustainability rental company to further refine Hohenstein demonstrates a portable 3D scanner, below. tiles from real life to the lab. The premise embraced by many of the and commercialize the technology. IFAI collaborated with NC State’s IFAI exhibitors. Bolger and O’Hearn Keynote speaker Linda Kaplan College of Textiles and sponsors featured their fluorine-free water Thaler, author of the best-selling to create the IFAI Expo Testing repellent additives. These products book Grit to Great, offered her take Program. From classroom to show are also water-based and solvent- on managing companies and life. floor, the Testing Program led par- free. As another environmental Guts, resilience, tenacity, and initia- ticipants on a treasure hunt-like bonus, they are manufactured in tive are common traits Thaler has activity to find answers and observe a solar powered plant, the first in observed in successful people and testing demonstrations to earn their its industry. “Our commitment to companies. She concluded that Testing Essentials certificate. The sustainability extends beyond the those who learn from failure, con- classroom component emphasized products to the way they are made,” tinuously challenge themselves, and the importance of evaluating prod- said Frank Keohan, Sr. Technology adapt to change are the people and ucts with the end user in mind, a Manager at Bolger and O’Hearn. companies who thrive. Traits the theme reinforced on the IFAI show Applied DNA Sciences designed domestic textile industry has exhib- floor. NCSU Associate Professor, a unique SigNature T DNA tag- ited time and time again. O

10 • Textile Insight ~ November/December 2016 textileinsight.com Your Niche is Our Niche original content. market speciﬁc. face-to-face.

NEW BALANCE GOES NEXT LEVEL / SNEAKERS GET RETRO / SUMMER SANDALS SIZZLE THE NEWSMAGAZINE FOR RUNNING SPECIALTY RETAILERS / RUNNINGINSIGHT.COM OUTDOORINSIGHTMAG.COM

HOW TO WONDER WOMEN SOLE 13 ATHLETES SEARCHING YOU NEED TO KNOW FOOTWEAR STYLE FROM THE BOTTOM UP DESIGNING WOMEN AROUND THE INDUSTRY: Four Q&As HOT PRODUCTS 50 BEST STORE THE BEST NEW WOMEN’S GEAR PROCESS EXPLAINED RETAIL TALK IN-DEPTH WITH REI’S SUSAN VISCON

WOMEN’S EVENT CHICAGO REPORT ASICS TAKES FLYTE Mountaineer Melissa Arnot Is One Of 13 WITH NEW SHOE Female Athletes Proﬁled Inside. See Page 22.

RIO READY: Shalane Flanagan ﬁnished ﬁrst with a time of 1:07:51 at the Suja Rock ‘n’ Roll San Diego Half Marathon earlier this month.

Photo courtesy of Rock ‘n’ Roll Marathon Series

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Hoop Dreams Open Your Mouth Cap it Off Performance Basketball Scores Year-Round Mouthguards Play the Game Headwear Goes High Tech Dealers Weigh In

SPORTSINSIGHTMAG.COM TRENDS, PERSPECTIVE AND ANALYSIS TRENDS IN APPAREL & FOOTWEAR DESIGN AND INNOVATION TEXTILEINSIGHT.COM

OLYMPIC IMPACT THE LEADING THE CHARGE INTO RIO BASEBALL TREND HAS BIG PLANS

PARTICIPATION TO INCREASE SETTERS INDUSTRY INFLUENCERS IN DESIGN, SWING IN 2016 FOR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT & TEXTILE INNOVATION. THE FENCES 2016 SUPPLY CHAIN: SHORTER & FASTER FOOTWEAR NEWS: AUTOMATION! MILITARY OUTLOOK: FY17 UPDATE EMERGING TECH: BIO ADVANCES

PLUS:

MADE IN

SEE PAGE 60 A FORMULA4 MEDIA PUBLICATION / MAY/JUNE 2016

AMERICA STORIES NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016 • A FORMULA4 MEDIA PUBLICATION

Chelsea Collective TM versus Athleta. ìíîe PAGE 14 Quiksilver bankruptcy INSIDEINSIGHT by the numbers. PAGE 20 SPORTS. SPECIALTY. RETAIL. BUSINESS.

EMILY’S NOTEBOOK

MARCH 30, 2016 TRENDINSIGHTMAG.COM Sep 21 / 2015

Strategy The Keys to the Future Sportsman’s Warehouse american The NE & NW Materials Show Goes Branded and Smaller. women Vision make it here Under Armour Sees $10 DANVERS, MASSACHUSETTS / PORTLAND, OREGON - MARCH 2016 Billion in 2020 Revenues. men’s Skate Adidas to Become athleisure NHL’s On-Ice Partner grows up in 2017-2018 Season. Fitness Harbinger Joins Implus Family. the modern art of retailing he collective ‘Calls to Action’ have Companies are getting behind PHIT been sounded from all corners of the America’s Increase Participation Plan (IPP) U.S. Americans need to move and and its joint initiative with the SFIA to award LISTEN TO T THE PODCAST participate in physical activities more. With GO! Grants to communities with programs to rising healthcare costs, sedentary youth and the get more than 50,000 children moving more in aging ‘Baby Boomer’ population, the health of its first year. Still, more industry donations are today’s increasingly connected Americans and needed for the initiatives second year in 2016. the entire sporting goods industry is at stake. Saucony is continuing its decade-long Traction is taking hold with new strategies mission to fight childhood obesity, which has to combat the issue being laid out in awarded more than $1 million to schools and Washington, New Orleans and Denver. Still, community groups, with its latest round of as Jim Baugh, the founder of nonprofit PHIT Saucony Run For Good Foundation grants. America, relentlessly points out, this is not Nike, among additional initiatives, is backing a a one brand, one company or one industry Shape America (Society of Health and Physical dilemma. All must take heed. Educators) enterprise that wants well-designed In Washington, D.C., U.S. Surgeon General health and physical education programs in Dr. Vivek Murthy has unveiled a national place that meet a guideline of 60 minutes of Tony Armand, CEO of fitness program focused on walking that daily physical activity. United Sports Brands promotes both the activity and the concept The Sports Authority is teaming with Armand is leading this new of more walkable communities in America. Under Armour to reward its loyalty rewards company, created after A recent U.S. study contends 2 ½ hours of members for completing physical activity the April merger of Shock moderate weekly exercise can extend an through the UA-owned MapMyFitness Doctor and McDavid and individual’s life by more than seven years. platform. The first challenge, “Back on a management-led buyout Olympic softball champion Jennie Finch, Track,” based on logging three workouts or with Bregal Partners. USB speaking on a panel with NFL Commissioner 10 miles in a week, has commenced. products are sold in more PODCAST: A CONVERSATION WITH PAM GELSOMINI Roger Goodell and orthopedic surgeon Dr. Maybe all Americans should commit to than 25,000 retail outlets AND CB TUITE OF ORTHOLITE - CLICK TO LISTEN James Andrews, said, “Sport is the answer to a getting ‘Back on Track,’ for their own health in North America and in lot of problems we have in society today.” and the health of the nation. Q 75 countries.

KEY TAKE F/W 17 MARKET TRENDS LEATHER THE SHOW HEARD IN SPONSORED BY: AWAYS PRODUCT DIRECTION & TECH WEATHER ITSELF AISLES 02 04 06 08 10 14 16

the show

58,000+ readers. 3,600+ attendees. learn more: formula4media.com subscribe: store.formula4media.com / connect: 516-305-4710 IN THE MARKET | ECO UPDATE Sustainability News in Manufacturing Methods & Fiber Innovation. By Emily Walzer

Downlite Unveils Waste Water Recycling System

ownlite recently installed a major project for the past few screens, tank, pumps and return to a new waste water years. One of the main reasons we’re machines. Kevin Borgquist, director recycling system that is doing this is we are trying to create of Feather & Down (F&D) sourcing Destimated to save about a greener company,” said Downlite and processing, led a tour of the 40 million gallons of water annually. CFO Josh Werthaiser. Downlite facility while explaining The Cincinnati-based down sup- The system was designed, con- both the F&D process and the new plier provided details of the new structed and is operated by Artesian water system integration. When all system complete with a plant tour Capital Partners (ACP), a newly three giant washers are running with at an event held earlier this month formed partnership that brings 440-pound batches of feather & down at corporate offices. For a business together established expertise in — that go through two wash cycles like Downlite that uses an awful the water business and the financial and six rinses to ensure high-quality lot of water 24/7 for washing and arena. Downlite’s waste water recy- cleaning — usage tallies about processing down and feathers for cling system is the first of its kind, 120,000 gallons of water every 90 the bedding, hospitality and perfor- according to ACP’s CEO Ed Kidston, minutes. The water travels the length mance outerwear markets, the new who said that customizing water of the 65,000 square foot Downlite system represents not only immedi- treatment for private industries is plant, during which it is captured, Artesian VP Sales Eric Fessler shows off ate benefits in terms of water usage, a new idea that is catching on very screened for residue, bio treated samples of the water before and after in addition to long-term cost savings, quickly. “We can be specific to what and filtered through membranes and treatment by the new Downlite system. but also signals Downlite’s contin- their water quality needs are and then ozone disinfected before being ued commitment to environmental that helps make it more cost effec- supplied back to the washers. It is a responsibility. tive while saving on resources,” said sophisticated and complex system, The fifth generation family busi- Kidston, who has spent 50 years in with remarkable results. “One of the main ness’ sustainability efforts extend the water business with a focus on ACP staff operates and manages reasons we’re doing to use LED lighting, adherence to treatment systems for municipali- the system off-site, even compost- this is we are trying bluesign certification and supply ties and cities. “This is the very first ing the sludge that is removed from to create a greener chain traceability, development of system that we are taking waste the water. This allows Downlite to company.” down standards, and a focus on water and sending it back (clean) to focus on the business at hand while animal welfare. Downlite executives the customer,” he added. aligning with corporate goals. Stated Josh Werthaiser, Downlite CFO agree, however, that this latest effort The Downlite system has already Werthaiser, “What’s important to us in water conservation takes corpo- saved approximately three million is staying relevant, maintaining and rate eco initiatives to the next level. gallons of water since September. growing our leadership position and “The waste water recycling system The multi-step system includes minimizing the impact we have on is a large undertaking that has been flow, starting at wash lines, going to the world around us.” O

Invista Debuts CoolMax EcoMade Technology Six-Step Process CoolMax EcoMade

new member of the CoolMax family is launching in denim that that brings both sustainability and cool comfort to jeans. A “We’ve been seeing consumer desire for performance in denim increase in the last two to three years, at the same time people are asking what we have that is sustainable,” says Jean Hegedus, global segment director, Denim and Wovens, Invista. “Now is the time to marry these properties together. These trends needed to be addressed.” CoolMax EcoMade technology is breathable and ent kinds of finishes. Fibers with CoolMax EcoMade technology moves moisture away from the skin, said Hege- CoolMax EcoMade technology will be offered in have the same cooling properties as all Cool- dus, and these performance characteristics are denim for men and women, starting with one brand Max branded products, but are made from 97 permanent and don’t wash out. CoolMax Eco- in Spring 2017, according to Hegedus, who de- percent recycled resources. Denim made with Made technology is also compatible with differ- clined to disclose the name of the brand. O

12 • Textile Insight ~ November/December 2016 textileinsight.com CONFIDENCE IN TEXTILES IN THE MARKET | COMPANY NEWS A Round-Up of Recent Industry Developments

ITG is based in Greensboro, NC and is parent company to Burlington.

ITG Acquired by in his role under the new Alandale Knitting Celebrates types needed to meet the Platinum Equity ownership. 50 Years in Business diverse requirements of fashion, International Textile Group, Inc. ITG’s businesses include Alandale Knitting, LLC, automotive, protective gear, (ITG) last month announced its Burlington, Cone Denim, Safety a commission circular knit industrial and technical textiles acquisition by Platinum Equity Components and Carlisle manufacturer, is celebrating applications. With more than through a completed merger with Finishing. The company employs a half-century of continuous 225 machines in its 120,000 an affiliate of Platinum Equity. In approximately 4,800 people operation at its Troy, North square foot mill in Troy, North the merger transaction, a newly worldwide with operations in Carolina operations. Founded in Carolina, Alandale produces formed Platinum Equity affiliate the United States, Mexico and 1966 by textile industry innovator a diverse offering of single merged with and into ITG, with China. Platinum Equity is a global Alan Gutschmit, Allandale over knits (jersey, piques, etc.), ITG continuing as the surviving investment firm with a portfolio the years has expanded to a double knits (interlock, rib, corporation and as a privately of approximately 30 operating production capacity of over etc.), fleece and other course held Platinum Equity portfolio companies that serve customers 500,000-pounds per week. The and fine gauge, large and body company. ITG’s common stock around the world. Over the company’s commitment to size knit fabrics and textiles. has ceased to be publicly traded. past 20 years, Platinum Equity flexibility and speed allows it to Alandale Knitting is a member Kenneth T. Kunberger, ITG has completed more than 185 offer a wide range of capabilities, of the Coville, Inc. family of president and CEO continues acquisitions. O sizes and complex construction companies. O

Manufacturing Efforts Draw Foreign Investment

King Charles Industries Opens economic activity and create new jobs in the currently makes 90 percent of the garments Manufacturing Site in NC state. Companies receive no money up front under the adidas brand. O A recent joint venture between Hornwood and and must meet job creation and investment Kingwhale has resulted in a new company with performance standards to qualify for grant Australian Chemical Firm a new $12.5M manufacturing facility with plans funds. One NC grants also require and are Has New Factory in SC to hire 100 new employees over the next three contingent on financial matches from local Alexium International opened a new state- years. “We are excited about the opportunity governments. O of-the art manufacturing facility in Greer, SC to build a new business with the latest in last month with a ribbon-cutting ceremony technology in Anson County,” said King Charles Chinese Company Builds attended by Trey Gowdy, U.S. Representative Industries Chairman Chuck Horne. Factory in Arkansas for South Carolina, 4th District. In a statement Lilesville, NC-based Hornwood, Inc., is a 70 Chinese apparel manufacturer Suzhou to shareholders, Alexium International CEO year old textile company that makes products Tianyuan Garments Company will invest Nicholas Clark remarked, “With the opening for a range of markets including automotive, $20 million to open a factory in Arkansas, of the Greer facility, we not only add to the apparel, and medical. Kingwhale Corp, according to Arkansas news reports. The number of jobs for qualified workers in the founded in 1992, is a Taiwanese vertically company makes apparel for adidas, Reebok area but also succeed in further enhancing integrated provider of performance fabric and and Armani brands. The new production our productivity as a company with numerous garments for the global apparel industry. facility is expected to create 400 jobs. specialized product lines of flame retardant The project was made possible in part The state’s deal with the company calls for chemistries.” Alexium International Group by a performance-based grant of up to a $1 million infrastructure assistance grant, Limited is a specialty chemicals development $300,000 from the One North Carolina $500,000 for training and an estimated $1.6 company headquartered in Perth, Western Fund. The One NC Fund provides financial million in rebates based on the company’s Australia. The firm’s Flame retardant assistance, through local governments, to annual payroll. chemistry serves the defense industry and attract business projects that will stimulate According to corporate reports, Tianyan consumer markets. O

14 • Textile Insight ~ November/December 2016 textileinsight.com IN THE MARKET | RETAIL NYC New Stores with Big Personalities.

A Kjus pop-uppop-u shop stakes out space i p shop stakesout space in RotRothman’s upscale menswear store hman’s upscale .

Nau captures cool, crisp, outdoor style in downtown Manhattan.

Footlocker’s new Herald Square locale has a Puma lab ons outdoorists. isaperfects a perfect ﬁt for ﬁt urban for outdoorurban ite. Westerllind’sd’ “he “heirloom” apparelapparel i

The North Face hh Min imallist desd ign sets thehhA’V tone at the Arc’teryx-Veilancelh concept shop in SohoSh. ighlights customcustomization atat i its newnew F Fifth AAvenue location. textileinsight.com November/December 2016 ~ Textile Insight • 15 TECH | BIO MATERIALS Performance & Sustainability Elevate Renewable, Bio-based Materials. By Emily Walzer

Is Bio the New Eco?

One estimate is that here’s a lot of However, nowadays performance biomaterials. Sales projections by 2020 the global talk about “bio” appears to be in the driver’s seat look strong for the years ahead. these days, and in terms of development and The use of bio-based products market for bio-based by talk we mean execs are increasingly empha- has grown at a steady pace in the products will grow to an emerging lingo sizing that today’s biomaterials last decade, according to Textile U.S. $250 billion and that includes products and technologies are Exchange (TE). The organization Teverything from “bio-based” evolving to create better perfor- reported that in 2005, bio-based that by 2030, one- third of chemicals products, to “biosynthetics” to mance from the least impact. product accounted for seven per- and materials will be “bio-tech” research to the study Branding is also playing a role. cent of global sales and around of “biomimetrics” and even to Companies are now putting more U.S. $77B in value within the produced from bio- a career as a “biotechnologist.” effort into telling a bio story with chemicals sector. It also stated logical sources, in- This wave of terminology is marketing that has broad appeal. that one estimate is that by 2020 cluding bio-polymers flooding the material world and The combination of enhanced the global market for bio-based and bio-plastics. reflects the momentum building functionality with environmen- products will grow to U.S. $250 around the category of bio-based tal responsibility is resonating billion and that by 2030, one- textiles. within the active/outdoor arena; third of chemicals and materials Sustainability has been critical there was definitely a heightened will be produced from biological to the bio movement from the get- awareness of “bio” at this past sources, including bio-polymers go. And as consumers continue to summer’s Outdoor Retailer, for and bio-plastics. demand sustainable products in example. Textile Exchange literature all aspects of lifestyle, this bodes Together these factors are explains that traditionally bio- well for growth in the bio sector. helping pave the way forward for polymers come from renewable

16 • Textile Insight ~ November/December 2016 textileinsight.com BIO WHAT? Here are just some of the latest “bio” terms:

BIOSYNTHETICS BIOTEXTILES BIOART BIOMATERIALS BIOMIMETRICS BIOTECHNOLOGIST BIODESIGN cellulose and starch, however polymers. feel in extreme cold conditions. determined by the Secretary to today they can be produced from “What we really offer is a build- Kronenberg foresees many be a commercial or industrial a broader range of raw materials, ing block for polyurethanes,” collaborations and partnerships product (other than food or feed) such as lipids (oils), bacteria, explained Laurie Kronenberg, for Susterra propanediol in the that is composed, in whole or fungi and algae, that enables pro- global marketing director for future, with announcements on in significant part, of biological ducers to do more with less. The DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products. the horizon for early 2017. products or renewable domestic contemporary portfolio of bio- “These polyurethanes can be In the meantime, DuPont Tate agricultural materials or forestry synthetic fibers embraces nylon, found in coatings, membranes, & Lyle customer Sorona is gain- materials OR an intermediate polyester and spandex/elastane. foams, and adhesives; basically ing visibility and traction in the feedstock.” Liesl Truscott, director of fiber just about all the components of market. “Brands are selling, Said Rosen, “Since Sorona is and materials strategy at Textile a footwear application and coat- and consumers are demanding, made using 37 percent annually Exchange, stated recently that, ings and membranes for apparel clothing that has performance renewable plant-based materials, “We started supporting the indus- applications. We are very proud properties such as softness, it fits the definition of a bio-based try on bio-synthetics in 2012 with of our bio-content story and sus- durability, stretch and recovery product or biomaterial.” biov8tion, and I’m pleased to say tainability story but as we have and moisture management,” The DuPont Textile that together we are now taking been working with our customers comments Wendy Rosen, senior Collaboratory previewed at the this to the next level.” TE has set we are finding more and more China International Trade Fair for up a new Bio-Synthetics Working performance advantages.” Bio-based prod- Apparel, Fabrics and Accessories Group, comprised of TE members Kronenberg, added that the uct accounted for (Intertextile) recently. The and experts with an interest in company is “very strategically seven percent of Collaboratory showcased the the future of bio-based materials. positioning ourselves to support latest Sorona innovations and the performance textiles market global sales and a new brand look. Sorona fiber Taking Bio-Based and footwear industry with bio- around U.S. $77B used in comfort stretch knitwear to the Next Level based solutions in 2017 and in value within the and a spandex-free woven collec- Ten years ago, DuPont Tate & beyond.” chemicals sector. tion were highlighted. Insulation Lyle Bio Products announced the A recent partnership has materials made with DuPont first commercial shipments of a formed with Everest Textile. communications manager, Sorona fiber were introduced breakthrough biomaterial, bio- Everest’s Evertek Eco-Product DuPont Industrial Biosciences. as an alternative to down and based 1,3-propanediol. Four years textiles incorporate bio-based “This is true across all categories feather filling. later it announced an expan- membranes and coatings based of apparel—from active outdoor “Our intent is to integrate sion increasing capacity by 35 on Susterra propanediol. The and sports, to suiting to work- upstream and downstream percent at its facility in Loudon, Ever Soft 3-layer shell provides wear to yoga-wear to denim. resources to better serve brand Tennessee. Today the joint ven- four-way stretch in addition to Sorona delivers on these perfor- houses all over the world,” said ture provides solutions for a wide moisture vapor protection. The mance aspects,” said Rosen. Dennis Tsai, Sorona Asia Pacific variety of markets and appli- membrane contains more than Rosen explained that bio-based business director. “We are cations through its bio-based 25 percent renewable sourced and biomaterial are used inter- excited to see the growth in work- performance brands Susterra and materials by weight. The Eco changeably in the marketplace, ing together with partners along Zemea propanediol in addition to Freezing-Soft fabric has up to 50 and supports the USDA definition, our whole value chain and look Bio-PDO, the key ingredient for percent bio-based content provid- which says, “The term ‘bio- forward to creating even more DuPont Sorona high-performance ing wind resistance and a flexible based product’ means a product success stories in the future.” O

How it’s made Susterra® propanediol is manufactured through a proprietary fermentation process using plant-derived glucose instead of petroleum-based feedstocks. The Harvest Fermentation Refining resulting product is 99.7% pure. textileinsight.com November/December 2016 ~ Textile Insight • 17 TREND SETTERS 2016

MEET OUR 2016 TRENDSETTERS! These are the talented, forward-thinking individuals who are responsible for shap- ing seasonal trends and influencing the design and product development of our active lifestyle wardrobes. For this, our 5th Annual Trendsetters edition, we asked our candidates to respond to questions that would provide a snap shot of their professional outlook and personal passions. What is the key to textile innovation? Where is inspiration found? What fuels the creative process? Their revealing answers to these and other queries offer an entertaining and educational insider’s view of our industry, and the future direction of the performance market. Not to mention illuminating some quirky choices by designers when it comes to favorite condiments. Spicy Haitian coleslaw, anyone?

Lars McKinnon When someone says “lifestyle,” you say whose? Designer, Veilance, Arc’teryx Equipment The current state of active outdoor is progressive. My favorite condiment is mayo. Design professional with over six years of experience creating high-end technical mens- Vanessa Mason wear that combines a contemporary minimal Director Engineering and Technology, PrimaLoft aesthetic with function, performance, and freedom of movement. With Veilance, drives Director of Engineering responsible for the materials selection and testing, creates pat- oversight of global product quality, research terns and constructs prototypes, in addition and development, engineering, intellectual to collaborating on brand development with the marketing property and new manufacturing resources. and sales teams. Prior to Arc’teryx held posts at Canadian- Joined Albany International in July 1997 as an based companies Blanc & Noir, Roden Gray and Westcomb R&D Engineer for the Monofilament Division Outerwear. and over the years held the positions of R&D Manager for the PrimaLoft Division and Director of Business My signature look is my beard. Development for the PrimaLoft Division. In June 2012, PrimaLoft, My design pet peeve is inverted box pleats. Inc. purchased the PrimaLoft Division from Albany International The best design advice I ever received was focus on the user maintaining a key business role as one of the Staff Directors. experience. My current obsession is waterproof footwear. My signature look is black & functional. The most regrettable trend of recent years was not apparel My design pet peeve is low quality stitching. related. The best design advice I ever received was to design for A product I wish sold better is hard shells. manufacturability. My favorite underdog material is Merino wool. My current obsession is Unique Thought & Chipotle. The key to textile innovation is field testing. The most regrettable trend of recent years was reflective The future of product design is all about: materials. a) wearable tech A product I wish sold better is wearable technologies. b) customization My favorite underdog material is HeiQ. c) sustainability The key to textile innovation is to invest in disruptive innovation. d) ALL OF THE ABOVE The future of product design is all about sustainability. The most under-rated element of the creative process is The most under-rated element of the creative process is having planning. time to think.

18 • Textile Insight ~ November/December 2016 textileinsight.com INDUSTRY INFLUENCERS IN DESIGN, PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT & TEXTILE INNOVATION.

When someone says “lifestyle,” you say show me the money. phase and through empathy, deriving a true understanding of The current state of active outdoor is increasing in importance a problem that will be solved in a profitable, sustainable and to the millennial generation that have a “done in a day” innovative way! Design briefs today are stereotypical and don’t mentality. truly capture the user in a way that is quantifiable. Data min- My favorite condiment/topping is banana peppers. ing is superficial at best. This usually is limited to PE firms not allocating the correct resources to conduct proper research to Jason Belaire begin with! ISDA, Owner and Designer, ENFOQUE Design When someone says “lifestyle,” you say TRIBAL instincts. The current state of active outdoor is driven by profitability, not Based in the greater Denver area, services innovation and sustainability. include work as a product designer, industrial My favorite condiment is a Manhattan with Woodford Rye and a designer, product manager, graphic designer twist of orange (aromatic infused oils). and photographer. Kelsey Halling My signature look is monochromatic with hits Director of Impact, Thread of a pop color (usually red.) Something that denotes that I am stylish, understand fashion, but am deeply Responsible for measuring, managing, and rooted in my punk rock past. improving the impact that Thread yarn, fabric, My design pet peeve is a lack of innovation and authenticity. We and apparel have on the planet. Her work can’t keep complying with the big box buyers that say “make ensures the journey from a plastic bottle to the this for five dollars less and we can sell a gazillion” and consider most responsible fabric on the planet benefits this a model for success. ROI isn’t dependent on this if we’re every stakeholder involved, while setting the hurting the environment. stage for Circular Economy initiatives. The best design advice I ever received was Know Yourself, and fully understand that life begins at the end of your comfort zone! My signature look is black and white. My current obsession is advocating on behalf of design and The best design advice I ever received was Coco Chanel said Culture! I have redefined my title to be a “Creative Cultural that before leaving the house, you should look in the mirror and Director at Large.” Through the right creative culture, a com- remove one accessory. I try to follow this rule, not only in fash- pany can create the right product that will be sustainable and ion but in simplifying other areas of life as well. better for the environment. Also, it is okay to not have to grow My current obsession is homemade yogurt, trail running, and and grow and grow to be the next VF Corporation. It’s okay to be the new Tana French novel. smaller and do select product right. The most regrettable trend of recent years was I’ve never met a The most regrettable trend of recent years was large bottom poncho I’ve liked. feeding Private Equity firms buying out smaller brands to try My favorite underdog material is recycled polyester, preferably and build them into something that they are not. This too trans- recycled polyester that was made from bottles responsibly lates into the above response of environment. collected in the poorest places in the world supporting much- A product I wish sold better is Family Camping products in needed jobs. general. The kids of today need more exposure/time to the The key to textile innovation is figuring out how to recycle outdoors! blended fabrics back into virgin quality fiber. The key to textile innovation is all things that are certified by The most under-rated element of the creative process is a great Bluesign Certification (bluesign.com) and can truly relieve our editor. impact on the earth/water systems. The current state of active outdoor is stuff you want to wear The most under-rated element of the creative process is Self indoors. Compassion. Striving for self-understanding and awareness My favorite condiment is Pikliz – it’s Haitian, basically a spicy ties into the ability to look at a situation during the research coleslaw. I put it on everything when I’m there. textileinsight.com November/December 2016 ~ Textile Insight • 19 TRENDSETTERS 2016

Kyle McClure My signature look is T-shirt – black, white or Navy. Sweatshirt – Creative Director, Rhone black, grey or white. Jeans – usually 501s. Plain sneakers. My design pet peeve is not being candid enough when critiqu- Former executive assessment and search ing a design or idea, with yourself or within a group. This causes consultant with experience in industrials and Groupthink, where internal dynamics get in the way of looking at retail/apparel. As an independent consultant, design from the Outside-In. This behavior comes from not having brokered strategic partnerships between emerg- a safe-to-fail environment where you can be candid. Making sure ing designers and a leading retail and apparel to take the time to actively listen to junior members of your company. A published journalist, retail manager, team and encourage them to speak up will help prevent the sports equipment and apparel buyer and entre- Groupthink. It’s important in the design process. preneur. Joining Rhone as President he executed on initiatives The best design advice I ever received was be curious, set very across design, merchandising, PR, sourcing, supply chain and high standards, don’t fear failure and that life is short. Lessons wholesale. Most recently moved full time into the role of Creative learnt from my fashion school professor, the formidable Daphne Director focusing solely on design at Rhone. Brooker and my first boss, Franco Moschino, who left us way too early. My signature look is Chambray Shirt, Twill 5 pocket pants, Birks My current obsession is thinking how to make things differently, or Aprix sneaks, Bandana and Sunglasses. behavioral psychology and dog names (new puppy inbound! My design pet peeve is High waisted apparel. Open to suggestions…) The best design advice I ever received was I needed a ton of help The most regrettable trend of recent years was bad denim and and advice when Rhone was first getting its legs. I called my child- botox. Often seen together. hood friend John Whitledge to talk about color and I launched The key to textile innovation is curiosity + the ability to be into this whole diatribe about how I was trying to find color contrarian (after all, to create the new, you may have to discard inspiration from pictures of the Rhone glacier and river in order or destroy the old) + empathy + determination. to pick the color palette. His advice was to keep it simple and be The future of product design is all about: Creating desire and as authentic as possible in what I was doing. For him he picked solving needs through innovation, understanding human nature, colors that felt good and worked for what he was doing. I’m of the being different and, importantly, aesthetic. As Bob McDonald (ex same mind. There doesn’t need to be a convoluted process... if P&G CEO) said, “whilst promotions may win quarters, innovation it’s good, it’s good. You don’t need a glacier talking to you telling wins decades.” you what colors to pick for a season. The most under-rated element of the creative process is walking. My current obsession is Waltzing Matilda custom bags (just Putting your body to work in a low stress, automated process, snagged one from my boy Mike while we were all hanging out whilst allowing your subconscious and conscious to join the dots down in Nashville – it’s repurposed vintage blankets and chaps and project into the future. Good ideas rarely come to you at your made into a really dope backpack), ponchos and 45 RPM ban- desk. So eat less, read more, walk more. danas. I’m always looking for good bandanas and lost a great one My favorite condiment is a good olive oil. recently. A product I wish sold better is our Lakota Running Hoodie. The Kim Brannock fabric is made in the U.S. and it was also made in North America. Founder, Designer, SY Design It’s super comfortable, made with stretch fleece and is just a great hoodie for running or just slugging out. Founded in 2006, SY DESIGN is a creative My favorite underdog material is a good drawcord. apparel, product, and surface design studio The key to textile innovation is searching the globe and giving the proudly located in the outdoor playground of mills the craziest idea you can come up with. I pitched something Bend, Oregon. to a mill in Taiwan over the summer and they looked at me like I had seven heads. However, they are giving it a shot, so we will The most regrettable trend of recent years see if my insanity can make something cool. has been throw-away fashion. We should be The most under-rated element of the creative process is work. ashamed of ourselves for the waste and damage to the planet that You have to always be working for the next level. we have inflicted, all in the name of money. When someone says “lifestyle,” you say do you actually do the My favorite underdog material is easily hemp. Due to cost, it is not things you say your lifestyle is about? used as often as many other more commodity fibers, but the com- The current state of active outdoor is evolving. Style is making its binations that are created by Hemp Fortex always fascinate me way in more and more and outdoor style is making its way into and make me want to play with this fiber more. fashion more and more. It’s pretty symbiotic. The key to textile innovation is making textiles that have less envi- My favorite condiment is Chili garlic sauce at the moment - just ronmental impact and are healthy for us to wear. How fantastic had green curry last night so it’s top of mind. would it be for our clothes to actually increase our wellbeing, while also looking good too? Jonathan Cheung The future of product design is all about sustainability, as we Head of Global Design, Levi’s brand continue to feel the impacts of climate change and learn more about the social and environmental impacts of our purchasing At Levi’s since 2009 and Head of Global Design for decisions, I hope that designers and product teams will make it Men’s & Women’s since July 2013. Most recently incumbent in their design process to think about sustainability served as VP Men’s Merchandising and prior first. Creating beautiful, well-constructed durable pieces that to that was the Design Director for Levi’s Made have a longer lifecycle, needs to become mainstream. Designers & Crafted line in Amsterdam. Prior to joining should work to build products to eliminate failure through design. Levi’s, worked with two fashion legends, Franco It was fascinating for me to read that “Ninety percent of a prod- Moschino and Giorgio Armani in Milan. uct’s environmental impact is committed at the design stage;

20 • Textile Insight ~ November/December 2016 textileinsight.com two-thirds of waste is generated by industry, not households.” (From becomes creating a twist to your product. “The Responsible Company” by Yvon Chouinard & Vincent Stanley.) The most under-rated element of the creative process is observ- It starts with each one of us, every choice we make matters. ing. With all the tools & resources designers now have at their The most under-rated element of the creative process is the still fingertips, I fear we will stop thinking for ourselves. Go out- time in-between research, inspiration, product testing, and building. side and just watch people. More often than not, the trend Those idle moments in-between are where the leaps are made, and report you were reading was formed around observing a leaps are where all the excitement and innovation happen. We need situation(s). Utilize the space outside and ask yourself ques- time to allow for percolation, it’s like a pour-over vs. a cup of Folgers tions when you see something you’re curious about. at your local diner, the time invested in the two yields incredibly dif- When someone says “lifestyle,” you say Everything. When ferent results. building a collection of ‘lifestyle’ products, there is a lot of My favorite condiment is easily tequila. It goes with everything! narrowing down that has to take place because everything under the moon is warranted until you define it. Carrie Hill My favorite condiment is Soy sauce. I simply will not eat plain Senior Design Manager, Wolverine Worldwide rice.

Footwear Designer for Wolverine Worldwide Julianne Gauron for 12 years and recently became Senior Design Industrial Designer/Industry Consultant Manager for the Wolverine brand. Industrial Designer whose innovation My signature look is that I don’t have a signa- work in sports, fashion and technology, ture look. Perhaps then my signature look is often at the intersection, is rooted by a “chameleon.” By never really adapting one developing a deep understanding of user particular look, I feel like I can get away with anything without needs and the potential of disruptive being questioned. innovations and ideas in order to create My design pet peeve is the lack of focusing on details. My Dad novel but relevant products ready for the was a self-employed carpenter and he used to say he was never future. Founding member of the Apparel Innovation Team done with a job until everything was “copacetic.” I approach at New Balance in 2011 and developed solutions for elite design the same way. When you think you’re done, run through athletes, military Special Forces, and the everyday athlete. it again with a fine-tooth comb. One misplaced logo could ruin R&D for New Balance ‘Data Driven Apparel’ was worn in all that hard work. the 2016 Olympics in Rio. Worked as MIT Media Lab liai- The best design advice I ever received was from Mark Twain. son and remains a guest critic, and has taught at RISD. As “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is a consultant worked with Manufacture New York as Studio time to reform (or pause and reflect).” Director and Designer of the Technology Lab, Creative Lead My current obsession is all things real & natural mixed with of Descience, Designer for Dear Kate and with the VF Global some brightness. A real juxtaposition. An entire outfit in calm, Innovation Center. neutral colors & natural materials, popped with neon orange My signature look is my limited edition red 710 New Balance sneakers makes such a fresh statement. sneakers, skinny black Levi’s, with something straightfor- The most regrettable trend of recent years was gladiator san- ward and seasonally appropriate on top. dals. They look like a straight-jacket around your leg. My design pet peeve is when it is obvious that the difficult A product I wish sold better is Monk straps, especially for questions have not been asked; “is this product really neces- American men. It’s such a classic gentlemen style and I think it sary, and if so, how could it be better, bring more value?” always makes a man look so studious. (Essentially when a product feels like land fill fodder.) My favorite underdog material is anything that ages (patinas) The best design advice I ever received was when a profes- with beauty. Materials that are undyed and untreated have a sor told me the Alan Kay quote “The best way to predict the real appeal. future is to invent it.” Pretty mind blowing, and liberating, if The key to textile innovation is embrace optimism. With an open- you really embrace it. mind, we can continue to make new things. My current obsession is really opening myself to other The future of product design is all about: creative disciplines, which I love, such as writing and pho- a) Wearable tech: When the Apple Watch was featured on the tography, and seeing were they lead me. I have always front cover of the November issue of Vogue China, I knew the allowed myself this intellectually, but am excited to do this intersection of fashion & technology was progressing. For quite creatively. some time tech companies have really struggled with making The most regrettable trend of recent years was the continu- wearable tech desirable and cool. That boundary has been ing trend of designed obsolescence and disposability. I find broken down. it shocking that we are still going on this track as a culture, b) Customization:This is a concept we most recently started. when there is so much incontrovertible evidence of long In the footwear industry, customization used to just be about term environmental damage, unsustainable consumptive selecting a few colors and you’re done. We’re approaching this habits and so many successful examples of mission driven concept with the reality that the consumer is much more edu- for profits, take the B Corp model, for example. cated on the materials that go into building it, allowing them to My favorite underdog material is As a consumer, natural feel/act just like a designer, rather than just a color-selector. fibers for sporting goods, such as merino wool, although I’m c) Sustainability: Sustainability will forever be important. no sure it’s an underdog anymore. Expanding our ‘green’ supplier list, allows us to tap into new I’m excited for the disruptive potential of Spyder silk coming areas and create innovative materials without compromising out of Bolt and Spyber, at the Tsinghua University they are high quality & aesthetic values. It’s reaching a point where it’s even working on a conductive spider silk for wearables. the “norm” to embrace eco-friendly products, so the challenge When someone says “lifestyle,” you say Love your lifestyle! textileinsight.com November/December 2016 ~ Textile Insight • 21 TRENDSETTERS 2016

Kelly Hill The most under-rated element of the creative process is white Director, Product Development and Merchandising, Stio space. Developing great materials takes time that can be hard to come by in the day-to-day life of a material developer. It’s Over 20 years of experience in retail and super important to give yourself enough time and space to merchandising with 10 years in product devel- breathe potential into every project and allow for both the opment. Prior to Stio, worked at Cloudveil, Fila creative and science aspects that are critical to successful and Gap Inc. materials. Often, the best thing you can do for a project is to step away and allow your brain the opportunity to work from My signature look is a great pair of jeans with a a fresh perspective. Without enough white space in your pro- flannel or poplin shirt. cess, that’s practically impossible. My design pet peeve is over designed product. Choose a star - an The key to textile innovation is look outside your industry to be amazing fabric, a stand out print, a great trim package, but don’t inspired by the unlikely. DWR finishes were originally inspired overdo it. in the early ‘70s by the way a lotus leaf naturally sheds water The best design advice I ever received was keep it simple and – now called the “lotus effect.” This simple observation led to trust your gut. You can find inspiration in everything. the current advancements in the way we manage water repel- My current obsession is California Reds and Print. lency on modern materials. Scientific inspiration surrounds us The most regrettable trend of recent years was the idea that – it’s our opportunity to seek it out and learn from it. women can wear spandex tights anywhere, anytime with anything The current state of active outdoor is inspiring! There has been is unfortunate. so much advancement in polymers, finishes and even natu- My favorite underdog material is cotton! I know it doesn’t seem ral fibers that the possibilities for material development are like an underdog, but the outdoor industry is built on the idea wide open. And with the current focus on encouraging people of improving upon nature to battle the elements and outperform to choose an active, outdoor lifestyle, we as designers and whatever nature offers. While it has its challenges, cotton is as developers have the perfect opportunity to create positive comfortable, breathable and wearable a fiber as any out there experiences for those people and allow them to be inspired, – the technology that lives in our natural environment is quite too. remarkable and worth elevating. My favorite condiment is butter. I even put it in my coffee. The key to textile innovation is what can nature offer and how can we make it better. Will & Kelly Watters The most under-rated element of the creative process is white Founders, Western Rise space. Taking the time to observe, contemplate, evaluate and appreciate is tricky. The product of that time may never be A love of mountain life has given known. In a climate of do more, the want to produce some- way to a clothing company based in thing, anything, can chew up time. Telluride, CO, launched in 2015 on When someone says “lifestyle,” you say mountain. the idea to create simple, functional The current state of active outdoor is Exciting. As the land- and versatile apparel designed for scape of retail and access to products evolves, the idea that enjoying life outdoors. ‘active outdoor’ means only one thing has disappeared. Active Outdoor used to suggest a core user and core product. Now My design pet peeve is you can find active outdoor in mainstream fashion and urban Kelly: Looking at what others in the industry (are doing) hubs. There seems to be a collective yearning to be able to instead of looking at following a cultural shift in how products escape from the always-connected fast-paced grind we live in are being used. Will: Restricting the creative process from the and people are finding that getting outside into natural spaces beginning. Solve the problem in a way that delights the user is a good antidote to that. first, then worry about price and limitations. My favorite condiment is Parmesan cheese. In my house, it goes The best design advice I ever received was on or with everything. Kelly: Iterate, Iterate, Iterate. Will: You cannot solve a problem without empathy, curiosity, and optimism. Leslianne Carbary My current obsession is Materials Manager, Brooks Kelly: How stretch and nano treatments elevate simple designs and familiar fabrics. Will: The intersection of natural and per- Pacific Northwest native with over 20 years formance textiles and how it influences the future of clothing. industry experience. Past experience includes Also, the intersection of technical fabrics in everyday life. stints at Eddie Bauer and REI. As Materials The key to textile innovation is Manager at Brooks, researches and implements Will: A never-ending curiosity combined with a performance cutting-edge fabric technologies like Brooks’ driven goal. Kelly: Asking “Why not?” DriLayer to enhance apparel performance and The most under-rated element of the creative process is runner experience. Kelly: Time outside away from the designs. Refocusing person- ally allows creativity to enter the process in new ways. Will: The best design advice I ever received was don’t immediately The moment of true direction. When you find that through reject the materials that don’t meet your initial criteria for a not limiting the breadth of ideas, you have found an alterna- specified end-use. Instead, evaluate the material’s strengths and tive solution that is truly creative. inherent properties and by doing this, you might find you have *My favorite condiment is something really interesting that will suit another purpose or Kelly: Hot Sauce. Will: Bourbon – not so much a condiment, solve for a different problem. Everything has potential to be great but it goes with everything. in its own way.

22 • Textile Insight ~ November/December 2016 textileinsight.com Made from nature to stand up to the elements.

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Lisa Siedlecki and Jennifer Silbert and I make when you invest in it I expect that it will last and move Founders, Designers, Rewilder with you even as you upgrade. My current obsession is the perfect running jacket that defines Lisa Siedlecki is an accessories designer the performance and culture of running. It keeps me up at night, who has worked with numerous fashion because no matter how great a product the team has created in houses in New York and Los Angeles. the past I do not see enough people in one piece all of the time, one Jenny Silbert has spent her career in piece that inspires their performance and the emotional style com- material development and architecture ponent that makes it their favorite. I want it to be a piece she cannot and is currently teaching graduate-level live without on the run or the journey to and from her next run. I courses around material innovation have a vision of it and concept, but I am still looking for the fabric at Art Center College of Design in that changes the game and build her obsession to have it. Pasadena. Together they founded Rewilder in 2014. The company A product I wish sold better is the adidas Ultra Primeknit Wool takes materials en route to the landfill and transforms them into half zip. It was part of an amazing open source project with the beautiful bags. Woolmark brand, Stoll, and adidas. It was so cool and did not get a lot of press but it changes how brands work together and how we My signature look is vintage T-shirt and Jeans. work with natural fibers in performance. The best design advice I ever received was constantly be experi- My favorite underdog material is Merino, full stop. If we can teach menting. You learn the most from your failures. more people about all that this natural renewable fiber can do in Our current obsession is our babies, Silas and Marion! We built a style and performance I think we can slow the fast fashion trend nursery next to our studio so we are able to bring them to work, and build performance and style products that last the life of the blending the two worlds of business and breastfeeding. user. The most regrettable trend of recent years was Fast fashion! And the The most under-rated element of the creative process is an authen- trend toward everything being disposable. What we buy matters, tic insight. True beauty is the garment that improves your day while and we are passionate about conscious consumerism, doing our feeling and making you look great. part to ensure we impact the planet in a positive way. My favorite condiment is BBQ sauce, and since I live abroad I make My favorite underdog material is Repurposed materials. At Rewilder my own. all the materials we use are considered “underdogs,” and we love transforming them into high design. James Fisher The future of product design is all about: VP Product, Ibex a) wearable tech b) customization Background includes stints at Burton, where he c) sustainability worked for 15 years and held the title of Senior (c) Sustainability is key to all future design, but we believe you don’t Business Unit Director for Tech Softgoods, and have to sacrifice (a) or (b) to be sustainable. High tech design and prior to that worked for Airwalk International. sustainability go hand-in-hand. When someone says “lifestyle,” you say Healthy. My signature look is denim, black sneakers, wool My favorite condiment is Ketchup (Lisa); Mustard (Jen). tee, and some sort of Derby hat. The best design advice I ever received was the more expensive the Craig Vanderoef piece, the smaller the logo. Know what you’re good at. Know what Global Category Manager, Running, Adidas you’re not good at. My current obsession is natural blends. How can we get true body Currently the global category manager for run- mapping with combinations of natural fibers? How can we blend ning at Adidas in Germany. Has been at Adidas naturals together to out-perform synthetics in the age-old chal- since 2008. Running industry career also includes lenges of durability or burst strength or elasticity? I’m convinced experience at Brooks and ASICS. Has held product there is a better way through naturals and natural combinations. marketing positions in all facets of the running Mother Nature has a brilliant Push/Pull system; rather than try business: accessories, apparel, and footwear. to replicate with synthetics we want to replicate with naturals, let it do what it’s supposed to do. My signature look is usually a nod to Italian tailoring and vintage The key to textile innovation is entrenchment. If you really want style. So most days you will see me in a dark slim fitting Italian suit, to innovate in textiles, you have to be ready to drive it all the usually a superfine merino from Paul Smith or Gutteridge, that I pair way up the supply chain. You have to know the game all the way with a light colored slim fit dress shirt with a wide spread collar. I up and down the entire pipeline to truly innovate. have my shirts made by Leon at Beaux Tailor in Hong Kong because The current state of active outdoor is Fine. The worst thing I am really particular about fabrics, fits, and finishing and Leon anyone can do right now is get too hung up on the data, or sit never lets me down. I usually wear a pair of Stan Smith Sneakers back and complain about Mother Nature. Get out and hike/bike/ with the suit during the day. If I am heading out at night I usually fish/shred/climb/ paddle/run whatever it is that gets you moti- switch out the Stan’s for a pair of Grenson brogues or oxfords.I vated. That drive will never stop, and that drive has never been am always wearing a 1970s vintage Omega Constellation, I love the stronger. Individual sports will go through highs and lows but the beauty and detail that goes into a well made timepiece and the idea whole thing is just fine. that my watch is forty years old mean I am investing in quality that No wait…my answer is “light.” The current state of active out- has and will last. I close my look out with a pair of Persol shades. door is light—everything’s gotta be so damn light now. My design pet peeve is fast fashion. The idea that you would make My favorite condiment is Old Bay. It goes with pretty much every- or buy something just to throw it away makes my stomach turn. I thing, it can last for like nine years, and I dare anyone to tell me it believe in quality at all price points and no matter what my team doesn’t make fries taste better. O

24 • Textile Insight ~ November/December 2016 textileinsight.com 5. 413*/(t"'03.6-".&%*"16#-*$"5*0/ sportstyle sports inspired. the retailer’s athletically styled. embracing guide to yoga sport lifestyle participation trends trends the yoga lifestyle key pieces retro for the footwearfootwear workout sneakersneaker zle ìíîe sizzlesiz

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Next issue: Winter Advertising information: Ad Close: Jan 8, 2017 Contact Jeff Nott, Publisher, 516-305-4711 [email protected] or your account representative FOOTWEAR | MANUFACTURING Footwear Firms Are Trying to Break the Mold... Sometimes Literally. By Jennifer Ernst Beaudry

Reinventing the Shoe

Boot production at Kamik. o matter how high-tech get product to the consumer faster. Reebok developed a polyurethane or sleekly stylish the “It’s 18 months from beginning that could be drawn in layers to footwear of today is, briefs to seeing the shoe on a shelf, create a one-piece outsole and N under the hood, there and that’s a long time with how fast upper wrap that reaches into the hasn’t been much new. The basic the younger millennial consumer is lacing system. And given PU’s long techniques that provide the back- moving,” he said. “So the thought history in the industry, the team bone of the industry — lasting, was to shorten that timeline as was able to get the cushioning, welting, stitching — are hundreds much as we could.” stretch and durability they looked of years old. Even relatively new- That led McInnis’ team to look at for, but in a completely new way, to-the-scene techniques used to ways to eliminate the molding stage McInnis said. manufacture contemporary athletic of production. Only 300 pairs of the initial shoe shoes, and the materials featured “When you talk about making were released, but McInnis said the in these products, haven’t changed anything without molds, people’s company will use the new Rhode much in 30 years. first reaction is, well, we must be Island facility to test small-batch But several footwear firms are talking about 3-D printing,” he said. manufacturing and experiment with focusing on completely changing “It’s great, and it’s coming, but it’s other ways to use the technique. the way shoes are not only made, just not here [for mass production] but also materialized. yet — not for footwear. It’s way Robots as the Next Frontier Last month, Reebok debuted the too slow, way too expensive and it Robots were also the answer Liquid Speed shoe, the first style of doesn’t use the materials we need.” when Keen went looking for a way what the brand says will be many The solution, he said, was found to take its shoemaking to the next “It became very created with its Liquid Factory in the automotive industry and level. apparent that this really manufacturing technique. The 3-D its extensive use of robotics. “The In 2015, the brand debuted drawing technique will be the focus answer for us was to get that robot Uneek, a woven-cord upper shoe could span a lot of of a new test manufacturing lab to act like a 3-D printer, but one that Rory Fuerst Jr., director of categories and uses.” opening in Lincoln, RI, with partner that’s much faster, less expensive, innovation at Keen sister company Rory Fuerst Jr., director of AF Group early next year. The con- and one that uses a material that’s Fuerst Innovation Labs, called an innovation at Keen sister company cept grew, Reebok Head of Future already in our industry.” internal project to try and recre- Fuerst Innovation Labs Bill McInnis said, out of a desire to In collaboration with BASF, ate footwear from the ground up.

26 • Textile Insight ~ November/December 2016 textileinsight.com “For any footwear or apparel process, you’re buying these large flat pieces of a material and cutting them into small pieces and through hundreds of years of pattern engineering we can make things fit around your foot—but that’s coun- terintuitive,” he said. The solution Keen came up with — using two-ply braided cords to create a conforming upper that moves with the foot — took years of trial and error, but eventually the team came up with a factory plan that could get the process down to a seven-step manufacturing method that creates a shoe in 12 minutes. Fuerst said from the beginning, the team knew that bringing robotics into the mix was the next frontier. Working in conjunction with House of Design custom automation and robotics in Nampa, ID, Fuerst said they’ve been able to use robots to weave the shoe in a single step process that takes Rory Fuerst Jr. less than 2.5 minutes, which they (center) and the Keen team think showed off at August’s Outdoor robotics can play Retailer show in Salt Lake City. a growing role in The cost of the process and the future production. R&D required is a hurdle, and so is figuring out where it fits into was good, but bringing neoprene the existing process, Fuerst said, into the mix rendered the entire but the team is excited about upper un-recyclable. the potential robotics has to The answer? Working with revolutionize the whole footwear a research firm to develop manufacturing picture. “It became dedicated ovens. Put into very apparent that this really could service in the brand’s factory in span a lot of categories and uses,” Montreal, all the samples and Fuerst added. rejects are melted down into their component parts and put back Process Over Finished Product into the supply chain. It’s not just in the manufacturing Reebok’s McInnis said Top: Reebok’s new Liquid Speed process that brands are looking to focusing on the totality of the model uses 3-D drawing with PU to shake thing up. manufacturing cycle is where create the outsole and upper wrap; For Montreal-based Kamik, the industry would continue to Bottom: Keen’s Uneek sandal. process innovation needed to see big change. “What we set up come at both the start and the with the Future team is to focus finish of the product, according to a lot more on process than the VP of Manufacturing Joe Bichai. finished product — there are a After developing a patented lot of new processes in the world way of injecting lightweight and that footwear doesn’t tap into,” recyclable Rubber HE material he said. “If you can work with new over neoprene to create uppers, people and in new places, you Bichai explained, the brand was should fundamentally end up with left with a dilemma: The product differentiated product.” O textileinsight.com November/December 2016 ~ Textile Insight • 27 MADE IN AMERICA | MILITARY

The Opportunities & Challenges of Outfitting Today’s Warfighters. By Emily Walzer Outlook FY17 & Beyond

he Joint Advanced Planning Brief for Industry (JAPBI) event, recently hosted by the Defense Logistics Agency Troop Support Clothing & Textiles (C&T), combined big picture perspective with category-specific information. Performance, price and delivery were top of mind when discussing future requirements and business opportunitiesT ranging from Jungle Combat Boots to inexpensive FR material. Enhancing efficiencies, working more transparently, and dealing with inventory were also a focus over the course of the two-day event. The challenge presented to industry members in presentations and discussions was how to create higher value at lower cost, balance lengthy vetting with timely delivery and work collaboratively throughout the supply chain to outfit today’s warfighters with the protection and technical innovations they need. And, of course, be Berry compliant. The JAPBI event drew a large, energetic crowd with many members noting increased participation compared to past conferences; there were a total of 600 attendees, with 400 attendees from the industrial base, 60 from military/government and 140 DLA staff. A number of textile companies from the active/outdoor community were on hand. Firms included: Insect Shield, Polartec, Faytex, Burlington, Invista/Cordura brand, Deer Creek, Coville, Dyneema, PrimaLoft, Vibram, 3M, Brookwood, D30, DuPont, eVent, Hornwood, Milliken, Noble, and W. L. Gore. Outdoor brands in the audience included New Balance, Under Armour, Rocky Boots, Danner, Arc’teryx, Bates footwear, Darn Tough and Outdoor Research. Some said a strong agenda with across the board military representation helped generate a good turnout. Others mentioned the timing of late October as a factor. Mainly, textile people said they came to network, get insight on the outlook of the armed services and learn military clothing and textile priorities. “The reason people are here is because the military is critical to their business and you have to stay in the know of what they are looking for in terms of direction, trends, budgets, et cetera,” commented Mike Fucci, Tasman Leather Group.

Spending & Few Bright Spots “A few years ago we were all talking about the ‘s’ word, sequestration, but not anymore. Now we’re talking audit readiness within DLA and you are helping us to meet that goal of financial stewardship,” said Colonel Lawrence C. Hicks, who opened the JAPBI event, held nearby Philadelphia DLA Troop Support offices in Cherry Hill, NJ.

28 • Textile Insight ~ November/December 2016 textileinsight.com FY17 FORECAST $1.83 IBILLION

event, held nearby Philadelphia DLA Troop Support offices offerings. There is also a growing need/interest in tem- in Cherry Hill, NJ. perature regulating materials, so clothing and textiles can Class II Clothing & According to Hicks, who is the Director, Clothing & adapt to changing weather conditions without soldiers Textiles, DLA Troop Support, and a handful of other JAPBI having to change outfits. This is of particular importance Textiles ($ in Billions) presenters, spending is flat; the forecast for FY17 is $1.8B, in a new kit in development for parachutists, who deal basically the same as last year. From the Army, by far the with super cold temps when dropping out of at 35,000 SALES biggest sector of the services representing 56 percent, feet up and super warm weather when they land. Or as to the Coast Guard, the smallest sector, that message one representative explained, “when a parachutist drops 2.0 was consistent. “My funding stream is a bunch of zeroes. out in Saudi Arabia and lands in Yemen.” We’ve bought the sets we need for new procurement,” There was a lot of talk about the Jungle Combat boot, 1.8 1.8 said Charles Bell, Product Manager, U.S. Marine Corps, Jungle Combat Clothing, Extreme Cold Weather boot, 1.7 Program Manager, Infantry Combat Equipment. Cold Weather boot and modular glove system. Gender- 1.5 Colonel William Mosle of the U.S. Air Force explained how specific items such as maternity apparel and women’s 1.0 1.2 they are looking for incremental product improvements, Operational Dress Uniforms and Battle Dress Uniforms that are more comfortable, more breathable, with better were also highlighted. fit, and better fabrics. “Don’t change it, just improve it,” said Mosle, who is the Senior Material Leadership, Human Smoothing out the Supply Chain Systems Division, Agile Combat Support Directorate. Several of the presenters at JAPBI described themselves 0.0

“Sequestration is done, but there’s no ski slope going new, or relatively new, to their posts. And with this new FY12 FY13 FY14 FY15 FY16 uphill in terms of funding, just incremental changes.” regime comes change that includes a heightened emphasis Hayes David, Military Uniforms Program Manager for on smarter delivery, wiser buying and keener awareness the U.S. Coast Guard, added, as far as delivery goes, “we of inventory issues. INVENTORY need it yesterday, and price, price, price.” He mentioned “There have been a lot of changes in the organizations for example the Foul Weather Parka (FWPII). “This is a and lots of change with an administration about to change 2.0 mainstay, but we want to lower the price. The outer jacket and new people coming in,” said Army Project Manager is priced too high.” Soldier Protection and Individual Equipment (PM-SPIE) There are bright spots, however. Roy Dillard, Deputy Col Dean Hoffman, Project Manager. “Budgets are being 1.5 Director, DLA Troop Support, outlined two areas in par- looked at with great scrutiny, system integration is a big 1.4 ticular: Foreign Military Service (FMS) and Humanitarian thing, and we have to be transparent to be effective.” 1.0 1.2 efforts. “For the past three or four years these are growing Hoffman also highlighted lifecycle management. “We’re 1.1 1.1 tremendously,” said Dillard. looking at how to partner with industry to be more effec- A good chunk of business is done in FMS. “FY16 pro- tive on how we’re buying and purchasing—how much do cessed and provided to the tune of $640M in the support we really need, and when do we need it.” And who needs of the Afghan Army and Military Police,” said Dillard. “We it. “In the past we were buying for everybody, now that’s 0.0 expect this to grow, and for us to be a major player going not going to be the case,” said Hoffman. “We’re trying FY12 FY13 FY14 FY15 FY16 forward. We are on target to provide over $1B in support.” to figure out how to make sure soldiers have the best

Humanitarian efforts were jumpstarted at the very equipment and the guys who need it will have it. But not Source: DLA Troop Support end of FY15 with support for Syrian and Iraqi refugees everyone will have it.” that included blankets, kids’ clothing and other items. System integration strategies were addressed. The Dillard, explained that while FMS must be Berry compliant, armed services will look increasingly for crossover appli- Humanitarian assistance might depend on the severity, cations; for example, are two different shirt styles really available stock and urgency of need, in which case a waiver necessary when it is only the matter of a quarter-inch to the Berry Amendment could be obtained. cuff? Or can one style of shirt suffice for different sector of the services? Similarly it is recommended that industry Hot Topics & Product Trends partners need to start looking across the table at other According to Dillard and others, “athletic footwear is the industry partners and think about integration, so that buzz on Capitol Hill.” The thinking is Congress will pass clothing and equipment are compatible. For example, it “We’re looking at how funding for this new program into law. Specifically, the has happened in the past that some night vision goggles to partner with industry military is looking at supplying 225,000 pair of domestic- issued did not fit the soldiers’ helmets. to be more effective on made athletic shoes annually, in a one-time get for new Inventory is another area of focus. “Warehouses are how we’re buying and recruits. When the law is in effect, work will focus on the stacked to the gills with kit. We have to drive down the purchasing—how much logistics of being ready on day one. stock pile of kit we’ve got,” said Hoffman. “That’s not a do we really need, and Soldier load continues to be a driver in product develop- good news story for industry, but the sooner we can drill ment. No matter what the end use, materials need to be down our stock, the sooner we can re-stock.” He added, when do we need it.” lightweight with high threat protection and performance “Even if we don’t buy another shirt until 2021, just get down Col Dean Hoffman, Army Project Manager features such as wicking, quick dry times, and FR in many to my max level. We’re looking at it now. We have to.” O Soldier Protection and Individual Equipment textileinsight.com November/December 2016 ~ Textile Insight • 29 SUPPLY CHAIN | TECHNOLOGY How Technology Is Revolutionizing the Apparel Business Again. By Debra Cobb Next-Gen Solutions

Benetton’s seamless pullover is knit in 3-D form on Shima Seiki Wholegarment machines.

f industrialization enabled the creation of ready-made apparel, its various categories/business units. and globalization made it cheaper and more accessible, all signs Bemis has also set up bonding facilities in Portland, OR and Lawrence, are now pointing to a third iteration of the apparel business, MA. “Our goal with any of our apparel customers is to help them easily revolutionized by automation and digitization, and character- implement a new ‘method of make,’” says Lacey Johnson, global brand ized by speed-to-market, mass customization, local-for-local marketing manager for Bemis. The use of Bemis Sewfree bonding improves manufacturing, and sustainability. factory efficiencies and reduces costs by eliminating both bulk and layers Big brands are trialing a variety of digital and automated tech- of materials. nologies in bespoke facilities such as adidas’ Speedfactory and Johnson revealed that Bemis is in the process of quantifying these effi- Under Armour’s (UA) Lighthouse. Likewise, Nike’s Manufacturing ciencies, as well as looking for ways to integrate with future methods of Revolution is collaborating with fewer but key contractors to make, such as 3-D printing. create “technology-driven manufacturing.” I Printing, Knitting, and the Supply Chain New Methods of Make Digital printing, where artwork is converted to digital files and printed Bemis Associates, makers of Sewfree bonding technology, has set up a to fabric, reduces lead-time and the costs involved in making screens and Sewfree Cell in the UA Lighthouse in Baltimore. The state of the art bond- running short or sample runs using traditional printing methods. ing facility is stocked with Bemis’ entire product line and the equipment The efficient use of chemistry—pretreatments and ink—is the key to needed to allow to UA’s innovation team to experiment with bonding for making digital printing both cost effective and a sustainable process,

30 • Textile Insight ~ November/December 2016 textileinsight.com BREAKING NEWS

Fast Retailing Invests in Knitwear Innovation Factory

Fast Retailing, owner of the Uniqlo casual clothing chain and Designer Textiles knits and prints merino wool textiles as part of a unique vertical supply chain. Asia’s largest fashion “Zero waste and a shorter supply chain retailer, has invested are top of mind,” explains Seiichi Nakaya, U.S. $3.8M in a joint president of Shima Seiki USA. venture with specialist Digital integration knit machinery The automation and digitalization of manufacturer Shima apparel manufacturing has been evolving Seiki Mfg, in a for a number of years; with companies such as Gerber Technology and Morgan move designed to Tecnica integrating PLM systems, 3-D vir- increase production tual prototyping, automated cutting room of its Wholegarment technologies, and inkjet printing. Gerber has just introduced AutoMatch, seamless knitwear. a revolutionary layout and cutting system The initiative, called using digital imagery to ensure that stripes, the Innovation plaids, and other graphic patterns line up Factory, builds on an from one cut piece to the next. Currently according to Kelly Lawrence, global marketing manager targeting the furniture industry, the system will also agreement between for digital printing at the Lubrizol Corporation, a global have application in the burgeoning made-to-measure the two companies specialty chemical company. apparel business, according to Bill Grindle, Gerber CMO. in December 2015. Lubrizol’s PrintRite DP 300 family of pre-treatment Gerber is also working with designer Danit Peleg, who technologies are applied to the textile surface and “keep developed a line of 3-D printed garments using Gerber’s The new company the ink where you want it,” she explains. While untreated AccuMark 3-D visualisation technology. Peleg is partner- will produce Shima digital prints can look faded, the Lubrizol pretreatment ing with Gerber to help evolve Gerber’s YuniquePLM Seiki’s seamless creates deeper colors and crisper registration while and AccuMark pattern design products. Wholegarment maintaining fabric integrity and print durability. “Manufacturers need to have control of their own “The value chain is working to optimize the print environment, and that is where automation plays a big products, primarily process, and brands are engaged to deliver the benefits role,” says Michael Rabin, president of Morgan Tecnica for the Uniqlo brand. of digital printing to consumers,” Lawrence finds. America. “But the best automation requires proper plan- The long-term goal New Zealand-based Designer Textiles (DT), which ning and a well-trained back office. Equipment doesn’t specializes in creating merino wool and merino blend always solve the problem. We are about personalized is for it to function circular knits, added digital printing to their product solutions.” O as the lead factory portfolio a few years back as a point of differentiation. in the production DT is co-owned by wool yarn spinner Südwolle and garment manufacturer YoungOne. Kylee Davis, the of innovative knit company’s digital print creative manager, believes that products for the Fast the company’s unique vertical capabilities offer more Retailing Group. control over the supply chain, as well as speed-to-market. Breaking with Inkjet printing on wool textiles is highly specialized, according to Davis. With maximum production of 290 convention, Shima linear meters/hour, DT is very much about providing Seiki’s Wholegarment customers with customization. knitwear is seamless “It’s a very big opportunity,” she says. “You can see the growth of interest in customization. It allows our and is produced in customers to receive something that is exclusive to one entire piece, them.” three-dimensionally, Japanese machinery innovator Shima Seiki is best directly on the knitting known for its WHOLEGARMENT knitting machines that create seam-free knitwear made in one 3-D piece. machine, saving both Italian knitwear firm Benetton recently launched a line time and cost. The of seamless, made-in-Italy pullovers using the latest company adds that version of these machines. Shima’s SIP-160F3 advanced inkjet flatbed printer can its Wholegarment print finished garments as well as multiple garment process has greater pieces, using acid, reactive, or pigment inks; and can flexibility compared print on a variety of knitted textures. to traditional knitwear Danit Peleg using Gerber technology to create 3-D printed apparel. products. textileinsight.com EDUCATION | PENN STATE UNIVERSITY Research on Self-Healing Textile Shows Promise. By Kathlyn Swantko

Repair Solutions

enn State University, teins provide not only high strength Drexel University and polymeric materials, but can also the U.S. Naval Research discover novel properties for pro- P Laboratory have been tective applications.” working together to create self- Demirel cites the importance of healing textiles that not only repair using enzymes in the layers, such themselves, but also neutralize as those capable of degrading chemicals. Penn State’s Demirel chemical or biological agents, in Group’s research, headed by Dr. facilitating the fabrication of textiles Melik Demirel, professor of engi- for protection against toxic expo- Images show the Demirel Group’s novel protein based biocompatible coating for Self- neering and Director of the Center Healing textiles and its ability to enzymatically detoxify chemical agents. sure. He says, “This means the rapid for Research on Advanced Fiber repair for doctors, in the event of Technologies (CRAFT) at Penn State In a 2015 paper published in als, including a high elastic modulus; a fabric tear in the clinic, or in the University, shows that self-healing Scientific Reports, the research capability of forming a strong field for soldiers or farm workers.” structural proteins not only provide team reported that underwater self- adhesive bond underwater; and a While there won’t be self-repair- high strength polymeric materials healing materials could be found in reversible glass-to-rubber transition. ing clothing in department stores but also assist in the discovery of nature, and by using DNA technol- Demirel explains, “Based on this next week, this material is very novel properties for medical and ogy a protein can be experimentally preliminary work, our research interesting. “We are still in the early protective applications. put into a cell that does not nor- proposes that nature uses this stages of exploring and understand- “Self-healing fibers that can mally make that protein. By adding supramolecular self-assembly to ing its unique properties, and the detoxify agents have various a coating to textiles, this has the achieve stiff self-healing structural amount of material available is still applications in protective and potential to create strong, repairable proteins with soft/hard domain limited,” says Demirel. “Cost is an transportation products as well engineering materials. The team separation, so textile coatings were issue, but one we feel will diminish, as building materials,” explains focused its research on mimicking a logical extension for our SRT if and when the process is scaled- Demirel. “Our technology can be the interfacial chemistry of aquatic material.” up to meet anticipated commercial implemented on roofing materials, life. The self-healing proteins of bar- The Demirel Group conducted needs. Also, it’s important to con- air ducts and window screens, nacles were known to self-assemble tests on a variety of textile fabrics. sider that the required coating is interior of transportation vehicles, through supramolecular organiza- very small, so the cost of the textile protective suits or appliances, and tion, but understanding the role of Goals for Self-Healing Textiles will not increase drastically.” O medical applications.” supramolecular self-assembly in The Demirel Group’s goal through Initial research began two years the self-healing process remained its research is to create enzyme For more information on the Self-Healing ago by three PhD students (David limited. encapsulated self-healing materi- Textile research project, contact Professor Gaddes, Huihun Jung and Abdon Recently, additional evidence of als in which a crack can self-heal to Melik Demirel: [email protected] Pena-Francesch), along with supramolecular self-assembly was repair either microscopic to mac- Professor Demirel, who had been found in the protein complex of roscopic defects. Demirel states, Kathlyn Swantko, president of working on structural proteins for squid ring teeth (SRT). SRT-based “These self-healing materials are the FabricLink Network, created TheTechnicalCenter.com for Industry the last four years. The researchers materials were shown to have of interest for dual use such as networking and marketing of specialty joined forces and became known as several interesting properties as biomedical implants or bulletproof textiles, and FabricLink.com for consumer the Demirel Group. multifunctional engineering materi- vests. Self-healing structural pro- education involving everything fabric.

The FabricLink Network How will they find you, if you’re not there? THE Networking / Education Search Engine for ALL Things Textile Related!

Why clients are excited about the benefits of The FabricLink Network Partnership Opportunities: Kristi Rummel “The ever changing and improving Technical Center is a great way to drive FabricLink.com traffic to our company. We are receiving inquiries from various [email protected] 608.435.6220 aspects of the textile industry which gives us the opportunity to continue to research and develop technical fabrics for so many end uses.” Editorial Opportunities: Brenda Stamboulian Kathy Swantko Director of Marketing [email protected] Jason Mills LLC 818.345.7501 TheTechnicalCenter.com

32 • Textile Insight ~ November/December 2016 textileinsight.com For Independent Specialty Retailers

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January 10-12, 2017 Outdoor Retailer Winter Market • Salt Lake City, Utah

Hiring the Right Employees Tuesday, January 10 11 a.m. - 1 p.m. Lunch Provided

Developing Leaders Wednesday, January 11 11 a.m. - 1 p.m. Lunch Provided

Measuring Employee Success Thursday, January 12 11 a.m. - 1 p.m. Lunch Provided

JOIN US Register Today outdoorretailer.com/RSC OUT OF CONTEXT | KURT GRAY

Bringing Specialty Retail to Manufacturing

traditional market because they are too technical and M`XMV[Q^M;WW]Z[\]ЄIK\]- ally works better. Hah!)

From the customer’s point of view the shop presents the array of familiar and trusted names from the across the technical outdoor market as well as the shop’s made in USA brand in an even-handed _Ia6WO]QT\VWR]LOUMV\VW David and Goliath story. The customer is free to choose how their dollars work for them and make a selection in a win-win retail environment.

What I smile about is that this is basically how REI, Holubar and Gerry all started. A group of outdoor enthusiasts I make packs and outerwear This side of the business to market at competitive come together to buy and for a small regional outdoor requires all the same timing prices. resell mountaineering equip- brand rooted in a specialty and preseason orders and ment while making their own outdoor shop in the Colorado KI[P̆ÆW_XZWRMK\QWV[I[IVa The direct to market side of basic product in their own Mountains. A pillar in the local traditional retail business. the business is grounded in small facility. This form of community, the shop is known The outdoor industry ven- being closer to the customer. specialty branding, with one as the local, high mountain dors the shop’s buyers rely Through year-round par- foot in local manufacturing, sports expert and the business on primarily use sales reps ticipation in local festivals, and one foot in traditional owner is active in support- who travel to the shop to pre- events and demos the shop/ street retail, has a certain ing the town and culture. The view product lines. Visits to brand directly experiences magic to it. ‘Source the hard shop, the products it has for trade shows, both regional \PMMJJIVLÆW_WNXMWXTM \WÅVL[\]ЄOTWJITTaIVL[M_ sale, and the employees, are all IVLVI\QWVITKWVÅZU\PM and possibilities, capturing _PI\aW]KIVTWKITTa¼̆R][\ the real deal. wholesale buy, which is mind- nuance that other makers might be the mantra of the bogglingly complex. The might miss. The Colorado- future outdoor market. The foundation of the out- current wholesale system, made product is fresh and door shop’s business is the complete with its margins and ÆM`QJTMIVLQ\XZWRMK\[\PW[M traditional double margin discounts, is essential for the qualities along with a feeling Disclaimer: Mr. Gray, along retail model. The store man- mountain shop to survive. of membership-ownership to with other young outdoors- agers buy from an array of the consumer. men, used to wait expectantly established brands all the On my side of the equation, each year for the Stephenson essential provisions their we make a small variety of It is worth noting that the Warmlite* catalog. Nudists tribe requires, from life-sav- outerwear and packs, almost brand’s home-grown product R][\VI\]ZITTaSVW_PW_\W ing equipment to little gizmos all of them exclusively from wouldn’t be possible with- sell product. His opinions are and parts, as they depend American materials. The out the traditional, double not necessarily shared by the on this network of wholesale products carry a single margined, wholesale product publisher or others of more vendors to source a wide margin and are sold through holding up the price expecta- modesty. spectrum of the right goods the shop’s brick and mortar tion tent in both the shop and to support their customers’ store and the online site in a the market. Selling high-end, *Jack Stephenson was an needs. This is what makes low-key, loyalty kind of way. expensive technical apparel aerospace engineer who [XMKQIT\aZM\IQTLQЄMZMV\" While the production is decid- opens the door for slightly QV^MV\ML\PMÅZ[\XILLMLPQX Specialty shops have intimate edly small batch, we are very lower priced American made JMT\NWZXIKS[\PMÅZ[\\MV\[ knowledge of the surrounding serious about the product we apparel that uses American with curved/hooped poles and MV^QZWVUMV\#\PM[\IЄSVW_[ make and the single margin fabrics. (The rich irony is that \PMLW_VÅTTMLIQZUI\\ZM[[ what products work, and allows us to bring technical the materials used in our prod- His company is family owned that’s what they sell. styles using American fabric uct are not usually seen in the and survives to this day. O

34 • Textile Insight ~ November/December 2016 textileinsight.com